Visit Islay for the Scotch, Stay for Everything Else

Islay whisky is famous for their peatiness. The island, pronounced EYE-lah, is home to 9 active distilleries, and… me! In March 2021, I bought a wee flat on Islay and made it my little sanctuary. So, maybe you could call me an expert on the best things to do in Islay – but I’ll let you decide that for yourself.

To introduce you to my beloved island off of the west coast of Scotland, located in the Inner Hebrides, Islay is one of Scotland’s famous whisky distilling regions. The other whisky regions being: Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside and Campbeltown. (Sometimes “the Islands”, i.e. Skye, Jura, Arran, Orkney, Mull, are also a separate whisky region, but not technically according to regulation…) Each whisky region has its own set of unique characteristics that impact the taste and flavors of the whisky.

Before I get into the meat of the article, which extends beyond Islay whisky, let me lay some groundwork on Scotch Whisky. I’ll then pay some homage to Islay whisky and its culture of peaty whiskies.

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1. Scotch Whisky

Well, first of all, Scotch Whisky is protected by law – set forth by the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulation. To be designated as a whisky from Scotland, or a Scotch, it must adhere to the following requirements:

• Made in Scotland from only cereals, water and yeast
• Matured for a minimum of 3 years in oak casks
• Bottled at a minimum strength of 40% abv
• Distilled below 94.8% abv so that it retains the flavour and aroma derived from its raw materials
• No flavouring or sweetening is permitted

– From the Scotch Whisky Association

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, to be defined as a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, “the whisky must be distilled at a single distillery from water and malted barley without the addition of any other cereals, and by batch distillation in copper pot stills. Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be bottled in Scotland.”

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2. What makes Islay whisky special?

2.1 Peaty Islay Whisky? Blame it on the weather!

Allow me to clarify that I am not an expert in whisky, Islay, or Islay whisky. Obviously, there are better sources out there. I’ll share what I know and what I’ve found out. So, grab your wellies and rain coat, much of the peaty history of Islay whisky is owed to the island’s climate.

Islay is so wet the island never really dries. Throughout the year, like much of Scotland, the abundant grasses, mosses and shrubs live and die in perpetual bog. Over centuries, the resultant decaying matter creates a dense black substance. (*Lannie clarification – this is peat.)

But on Islay, seaweed and the wind-blown sea salt give the peat unique characteristics. Once cut and dried on firmer ground, the peat can then be burnt in a manner similar to coal.

Peat, bog and world-class whisky – why Islay remains the jewel in Scotland’s single-malt crown

Say what? Peat is decayed vegetation? Well sure, why not. Is that weird? I mean, weird things are kinda the best. Above is a picture of peat, that have been hand cut into squares. I imagined peat to be dense and heavy, but it’s surprisingly light. And it doesn’t smell “peaty.” I guess that only comes when you burn it.

Why would I want to visit if there’s decayed vegetation in their whiskies? Keep reading to find out!

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2.2 Peat and Smokiness

If you were to break down the steps of producing a single-malt whisky, it’d be:

1. Malting the barley
2. Fermentation
3. Distillation
4. Filling the casks
5. Maturation in the casks
6. Bottling

Peat is “inserted” into the barley grains in the malting process, when you dry the damp malt over peat-heated fire. The level of smokiness depends on how long the malt is dried over peat-heated fire. The process of drying the malt over fire usually takes about 30 hours. Laphroaig, as a prime example of Islay whisky, uses peat in about 17 of the 30 hours, which gives it a rich peatiness, or what they call ‘peat reek’.

So now you know, why Islay whiskies are peaty. Because the island is covered in a damp, peat bog, and they use these hundreds or thousands of year old decaying plant life to fuel the fire that dries the malt. And the longer the peated fire dries the malt, the smokier it becomes. Voila! Islay whisky = peaty, smokiness. Mini whisky lesson achieved!

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2.3 Visit Islay’s Whisky Distilleries

No one really knows when whisky distillation began. The first official record of malt distillation went back to 1494 when King James IV of Scotland was sent 500 bottles of spirit. Following a malt tax levied in 1725, many of the early whisky distilleries went “underground” to hide from the tax man. Underground is a loose term. On Islay, many illicit stills were hiding out in the caves that bend and curve around our island. By 1823, the Excise Act was passed that legalized distillation for a fee.

Here is a list of all of the Islay whisky distilleries in alphabetical order (including local pronunciations):

1. Ardbeg – (ard-BEG)
2. Ardnahoe – (ARD-na-hoe)
3. Bowmore – (b’MORE)
4. Bruichladdich (BROOK-laddie)
5. Bunnahabhain (BUN-a-HAV-en)
6. Caol Ila – (cull-EE-la)
7. Kilchoman (kil-HO-man)
8. Lagavulin – (LAG-a-VU-lin)
9. Laphroiag – (La-FROIG)

If you’re determined to visit all of the distilleries when you visit Islay, be sure to check out their websites for the most up to date opening information!

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For those who are superbly detail oriented, you’ll notice 10 distilleries in the first photo showing Islay whisky distilleries, and only 9 of them named above. The missing one from the list is – Port Ellen Maltings (POR-tellen). The distillery was founded in 1825, but ceased distilling in 1929. However, the maltings and warehousing operations continued.

To this day, Port Ellen Maltings supplies the malt to most of Islay’s distilleries, to each distillery’s secret specifications. But get excited, Islay whisky lovers! In 2017, Diageo announced that Port Ellen Distillery will begin distilling again in 2020. Not sure how covid has affected these plans. But let’s just say the old Port Ellen Whiskies are highly sought after, so there is something to look forward to!

Diageo is no stranger to whisky, holding such brands like Caol Ila and Lagavulin (and now Port Ellen) on Islay, and others like Royal Lochnagar, Talisker, and Oban.

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2.4 Can I visit Islay without being a whisky fan?

I get asked this question a lot. The answer is YES. Being a whisky fan is not a requirement to visit Islay. However, you might surprise yourself!

Prior to 2019, I had only tasted whisky on my Edinburgh food tour and visited one distillery. But I liked the idea of whisky as a hobby and was excited to learn more.

Since then, I’ve spent more time in both Speyside and Islay embracing this whisky culture. With each new expression, I was drawn in.

But fear not – you can still have an incredible Islay holiday, even if you’re not partaking in the Scotch! Hopefully, my post will introduce you to more of Islay than just its whisky.

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3. How to get to Islay

Well, considering it is an island, there’s really only a few ways to visit Islay. For me, since I was already on a road trip, it involved my trusty rental car and a ferry reservation. But for those who don’t want to do that, you can also arrive by air.

Get your bearings straight before you visit Islay. If you love maps like I do, the Ordnance Survey map of Islay is perfect purchase for the travel planner and inner cartographer! Maps covering the full island, North Islay, and South Islay.

3.1 By Air

You can fly into Islay, domestically, non-stop from Glasgow on Loganair’s daily, nonstop return from – 160 – 200 GBP.

If you fly, I’d still recommend you rent a car after you arrive. So, instead of that, why not just take the ferry with your rental car and visit Islay from the mainland?

3.2 By Sea

Roundtrip ferry fares to and from Islay (one person, with a car) is about 80 GBP. You can also board the ferry as a single, foot passenger, or with a bicycle, as I saw many people do. But that still requires you to make your way to Kennacraig on the mainland. For additional help, see: How to get to Islay, using public transport from Glasgow.

CalMac Ferries run several daily ferries from mainland Scotland (Kennecraig) to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig on Islay. The ferry ride is very simple, and my ride to Port Askaig took around 2 hours.

You can also arrive to Islay on a seasonal, passenger ferry from Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. I’ve included step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast in this post.

3.3 By Tour

For those wanting a guided tour of Islay and the Whisky Isles (which means you can drink without arranging taxis or having to worry about a designated driver), Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! Starting at 335£ for a 4 day tour!

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4. The 2 best places to stay for your Islay holiday

My first time on Islay, I stayed on the island for one week. I decided to break it up and stay in 2 different places on different parts of the island:

• Glenegedale House in the south,
• Port Charlotte Hotel in the Rinns of Islay, on the western part of the island.

Personally, this was a great idea. Glenegedale was quiet, homey and everything that I wanted. Port Charlotte Hotel sits inside the village of Port Charlotte, and is home to an award winning Whisky Pub. This gives it a lively atmosphere, even given physical distancing. Both have world class hospitality and are known for their amazing food. All the things that I wanted on my trip!

Visit the detailed posts on both accommodations, The Port Charlotte Hotel and Glenegedale House, and their food!

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4.1 Glenegedale House

I was the first guest to Glenegedale House after lockdown lifted in July 2020. You may think that made me apprehensive, but their genuine, warm hospitality made me feel right at home! They were ready to operate in a post-covid world, and made sure their guests felt comfortable during their post-lockdown stay.

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a beautifully designed double room. Laying in bed, I had a view of the sea. It was glorious. Every morning, I woke up and turned onto my side, toward the window to watch the sea. In all my days there, I never took a photo out that window, but you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Not only is Glenegedale known for their beautiful hospitality, they are also known for their food! Their breakfasts were absolutely stunning.

During my stay at Glenegedale, I was introduced to (now, one of my favorites) porridge with whisky. Is this a tourist gimmick? Actually not. Locals will take their porridge (oatmeal for us Americans) with:

• brown sugar,
• whisky (in my case, a 10 year Laphroaig),
• and some heavy cream.

Sound intense? It’s actually really wonderful. The brown sugar offsets any of the intensity of the scotch, and you’re left with this smoky, creamy oatmeal. There are two ways to eat this – one where you mix it all together, and the other where you eat it bit by bit. I’ll let you guess which one I did.

Did I get drunk off of this? Actually, no! And it was so delicious, I had it with breakfast every single morning. It paired beautifully with their selection of home-poached fruit!

Lastly, Glenegedale House is located right next to the airport and within a 10 minute drive to Port Ellen. It is ideally located to visit the three (heavily peaty) distilleries in the south – Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig!

A big thank you to the Glenegedale House!
For my full review, click here!

*I should mention that there are hand sanitizing stations located throughout public spaces. Face shields are worn at meal and face masks at welcome. Don’t worry about it!

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4.2 The Port Charlotte Hotel

Port Charlotte, a beautiful village on the western peninsula of Islay, is home to an equally beautiful namesake hotel – the Port Charlotte Hotel. Even before I arrived at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I heard about the fun whisky bar and its amazing restaurant. This trip was all about soaking up the local whisky culture, the food scene, and Islay’s delicious hospitality. And the Port Charlotte Hotel did not disappoint on any front!

Experiencing hospitality in the age of covid-19 is odd in itself, let’s be real. I knew I was in good hands at the Port Charlotte Hotel. They updated their reception area with a screen, to create space between the guest and host. But it didn’t feel unfriendly or impersonal. Each time I walked by, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and (even in July) the warmth of a roaring fire in the sitting room.

I stayed in Room 1, a double room, with a luscious sea view you could enjoy straight from bed. I don’t have any good photos of that view, because those moments that I spent in bed were particularly rainy. When the rain cleared, you could see across to the Loch Indaal House (lighthouse).

Before I arrived in Port Charlotte, I had heard tales of how amazing the food was here. And let me tell you – the breakfasts and dinners at the Port Charlotte Hotel were phenomenal! The food was so delicious and extremely fresh and high quality! When you visit Islay, there are no excuses for eating a subpar meal when you have food like this!

The beauty of a full Scottish Breakfast

From Port Charlotte, it’s easy to swing by Kilchoman Distillery and Bruichladdich Distillery, which are also located on the western peninsula. Check the distillery websites for the most up to date information on opening times and COVID-19 measures!

A big thank you to the Port Charlotte Hotel!
For my full review, click here.

*Along with hand sanitizing stations throughout, and the screen at reception, face masks are worn by servers in the restaurant.

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5. Things to do in Islay – its Historical Sites

It’s easy to get starstuck with its gorgeous whiskies and hospitality when you visit Islay. But this island offers a rich history with interesting sites to see!

5.1 Finlaggan Castle

On the isle of Eilean Mór on Loch Finlaggan, is Finlaggan Castle. (Say that again? A castle on an island, in a lake, on an island…)

Well, technically, the ruins of Finlaggan Castle – once the seat of power for the Lord of the Isles, and the stronghold of Clan Donald. The Lord of the Isles controlled the Isle of Man, the Hebrides, Knoydart, Ardnamurchan, and the Kintyre Peninsula, as well as the Glens of Antrim across the sea in Northern Ireland. At the height of their power, Clan Donald was the greatest landowner and one of the most powerful lords in Britain, after the Kings of England and Scotland themselves.

In medieval times, there were more than 20 structures on the island, including homes, workshops, and storehouses, which were made of both wood and stone. The above photo is of the Great Hall and is one of a few structures still standing.

The castle and accompanying chapel were likely built in the 13th century. Clan Donald held Finlaggan Castle and the Lordship of the Isles until in 1493. The end of the MacDonald Lords came when King James IV of Scotland seized all their ancestral homelands, estates, and titles.

Currently, the title of the Lord of the Isles still exists! The title of Lord of the Isles is held by the Duke of Rothesay (the equivalent of the Prince of Wales in Scotland), better known to the rest of us as Prince William.

Marshy land on the way to Finlaggan Castle.
This marshy, boggy land is perfect for peat cultivation.

Today, the Finlaggan Trust runs a visitor center and maintains the wooden jetty across Loch Finlaggan to the ruins. Without the jetty, the isle and castle ruins would be cut off from visitors. It is a short, but lovely walk from the visitor center and car park to the jetty. Don’t miss the honesty box for donations to help the upkeep and maintenance!

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5.2 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

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5.3 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton).

Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

It is an incredible site to see!!

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5.4 Museum of Islay Life

To get the most out of your Islay trip, a visit to the Museum of Islay Life up in Port Charlotte is a must. It’s a walk back in time, from when the island was first settled (from prehistoric times) to present day. It also has so many artifacts collected over the years from real Ileachs (pronounced EE-lokh, and meaning a person who comes from Islay). A wonderfully curated collection!

Some of the really fun “old things” that I enjoyed seeing (in complete random order), a pre-electric iron, old photographs, butter molds (with thistle designs and everything!), an original sodastream machine from ages ago! There was a huge variety of things, but also easy for you to walk through and take it all in!

And of course, the history of Islay whisky and its illicit stills. I won’t entirely give it away, but the story has to do with the tax man (excise tax) and the need to have to hide their whisky from the tax man. Hide it in caves, hide it in coffins, you name it – there was whisky hiding. I absolutely loved seeing the old photos of the distilleries and the workers, as well as the peat tools you see above! A walk back into time!

Located within walking distance of the Port Charlotte Hotel. So, if you’re staying there, pop on over. If you’re staying elsewhere, definitely stop by for a meal before or after!

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5.5 Islay Woolen Mill

Hidden among the Bridgend Woods, The Islay Woolen Mill was first established in 1883. Using two restored Dobcross looms from the 1920s, the Covell family have been working together since 1981 to weave luscious cloth. The old looms are definitely a sight to see! You might recognize some of the designs, as their cloth designs have featured in Braveheart and Forrest Gump to name a few. Commemorate your visit to Islay with an official distillery tartan scarf or throw!

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6. Best outdoor things to do in Islay

6.1 Beaches

Most people wouldn’t think it, but one of the best things to do in Islay is to visit the beautiful beaches! There are more beaches that I haven’t gone to yet, but here are some you should put on your list when you visit Islay.

6.1.1 Machir Bay

Located near the Kilchoman Distillery, Machir Bay is a beautiful sand beach. During low tide, you can see remnants of a shipwreck. Maybe you want to stop by Kilchoman on the way to Machir Bay, so that you can enjoy a Machir Bay Whisky at Machir Bay.

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6.1.2 Saligo Bay

Saligo Bay is generally considered Islay’s most beautiful beach! It is absolutely stunning, with large rock formations around. As you can see from the photo below, it wasn’t beautifully sunny the day that I went, but I still enjoyed a long walk along the beach.

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6.1.3 White Hart Beach

White Hart Beach on Islay

Watch this video on YouTube.

The White Hart Beach is located right when you enter the Port Ellen, just opposite the hotel at No. 1 Charlotte Street. This is a favorite of mine, with views of Port Ellen Maltings and the village of Port Ellen itself. Sometimes you’ll find me beachcombing for sea glass.

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6.1.4 Claggain Bay

Unlike all of the above, the beach at Claggain Bay is a pebble beach, not sand. It’s perfect to stop by following a visit to the Kildalton Cross. It’s kind of out there, but beautiful and well worth it! From my conversations with locals, this is often their favorite!

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6.2 Best Walks on Islay

There are a number of incredible walks and hikes for your Islay trip. Even though you can get your steps in, you better be prepared with the right clothes! Chances are, it may rain, but prepare your wellies! You may step into some mud or peat bog.

These walks are kind of a must when you visit Islay – to see the views, yes, but also to make some room for more delicious food!

6.2.1 American Monument

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

The Tuscania, carrying over 2,000 soldiers and 300 crew, sank 7 miles off the coast of Islay. A German UB-77 submarine torpedoed the Tuscania, resulting in a direct hit. Eight months later, closer to Machir Bay, the HMS Otranto collided with HMS Kashmir during a heavy storm. Over 400 British and American troops were lost. Many are buried in the Kilchoman military cemetary.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

For more trails, download AllTrails+

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6.2.2 Around Portnahaven

Everyone in Islay will tell you Portnahaven is a delightful fishing village on that side of the island. And it’s true – I definitely agree. I would even put it as one of the must-see places when you visit Islay.

I spent a few hours walking around the village and the next village over, Port Wemyss. Just off the coast, on Orsay, is the Rinns of Islay Lighthouse.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get to see some seals lounging around in the Portnahaven harbor. Or, if you have a massive zoom lens like I now do, you’ll see them lounging at the base of the lighthouse.

Curious what lens I used for this? My new Sigma 150-600mm. The seal was shot at 600mm. I have to admit that I absolutely love it. (Even if it does weigh almost 4.5 pounds, and is super ginormous…)

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6.2.3 Three Distilleries Path

The Three Distilleries Path is arguably my favorite walk on Islay and probably one of the best walks on Islay. It is a one way walk from Port Ellen to Ardbeg Distillery, passing Laphroaig and Lagavulin along the way. It’s about 6 km in total and is a one way trip. For me, I like to take the bus from Port Ellen (for 2£) down to Ardbeg, and walk back. Feel free to read all about my walk along the Three Distilleries Path when I did a whisky tasting along the way.

For those who love the purple blanket of bluebells, there are lots between Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig! But if bluebells are your thing…

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6.2.4 Bridgend Woods

Located just opposite Islay House Square, bridgend woods is just off of the main road between Port Askaig and Bridgend. However, don’t let that bustling road traffic fool you. Within seconds, you’re in the quiet sanctuary or what feels like an ancient forest. There are lots of walking path options within the woods, and I’ve really only done a fraction of it!

But, between May and June, Bridgend Woods is the place on Islay for bluebells. They blanket the whole forest floor, and really, everywhere you go! But don’t go frolocking in the fields and take those stereotypial flower field instagram photos. Bluebells are extremely delicate and will die off if trampled upon!

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6.2.5 Bruichladdich Walking Path

The newest walking path on Islay is surely becoming one of my favorites. The Bruichladdich Walking Path connects the villages of Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte, via a paved coastal path. Go down to the secret beach at Port Ban and admire the Bruichladdich Islay-grown barley waving to you in the wind. The path is great for cyclists and walkers of all ages.

I’ve added the Bruichladdich Walking Path to AllTrails because it’s such a great walk. Download AllTrails Pro download offline maps, find nearby trails, and more!

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6.3 Boat adventures

Islay Sea Adventures has the great tours for adults and families alike. Recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Best Outdoor/Adventure Activity, and having been on several of their boat trips, going on a boat with Islay Sea Adventures is definitely one of the best things to do in Islay!

During the tourist season, they have daily sailings for wildlife tours, fishing trips, seafood trips, and sunset boat trips! I’ve been on several of Islay Sea Adventures trips – the most popular being the wildlife trip. Most trips begin from Port Ellen and sail the southern tip, with views of the southern Islay distilleries, and then on over to a special area of conservation for more seal and deer spotting!

Those who are seafood-obsessed, you have to go on their Seafood Special Tour! The seafood special to includes a special stop in a bay. Captain Harold then takes to the gas grill with some hand dived scallops, butter and herbs. The smell alone is intoxicating. Inside, there’s lobster and crab, salad and some bread waiting for you. An absolute feast on the seas!!

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7. My favorite MUST VISIT Islay small businesses

7.1 Sea Salt in Port Ellen

Sea Salt is a delightful bistro that comes highly recommended for an amazing meal. It’s one of those places that is so good, maybe you visit twice during your first trip! Ok, that is exactly what I did.

I ate at Sea Salt on my first night in Islay, upon the recommendation of Emma from Glenegedale. What I ordered set off a chain reaction of “wooo, what’s she eating?” To which I happily replied, “The seafood linguini. You won’t regret it!”

The second time I visited Sea Salt, I had an amazing fish and chips. The fish was super fresh, with light and crispy batter. I honestly thought about having the seafood linguini again, but that would be silly. And sometimes, you just wanna go for the classics!

At this point, I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve eaten at Sea Salt, for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

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7.2 Spirited Soaps in Bowmore

One of the shops I came across in Islay is Spirited Soaps, which became a pillar of the community during a hand sanitizer shortage on the island. Along with Bruichladdich Distillery, Spirited Soaps addressed the community shortage on the island by creating Islay Hand Sanitiser, which you can find sprinkled everywhere a hand sanitizing station is needed on Islay.

Spirited Soaps happily marries Islay’s whisky tradition with soap and personal care products. Although I may be simplifying this, all soaps contain some alcohol. So, why not use the alcohol that the island is famous for? They’ve interestingly used parts of the malted barley of all 9 Islay distilleries (and Lussa Gin and Jura Distillery on neighboring Jura) to create unique, beautiful soaps of different scents and smells. Islay whisky soap? Lussa Gin soap? Count me in! These soaps don’t necessarily smell like your traditional, peated Islay whisky or alcoholic spirits!

When I visited Bowmore, I had a lovely chat with Gemma, the new proprietress of Spirited Soaps. She happened to be cutting small soap bars from a giant block when I entered the shop.

I looked in awe at all of the different soaps and lotions and creams. In pre-covid times, I would be opening up each jar, smelling them, testing out samples…the whole nine yards. That day, I hesitated and told Gemma of that hesitation. She said that since I sanitized my hands (with Islay Hand Sanitiser, made by Spirited Soaps) when I first walked in the shop, it was alright to open, smell and test anything.

The thing that I found super interesting, was most distilleries did not want their soaps to smell like their spirits. For example, Laphroaig specifically did not – instead, their soap smells like peppermint! Also, there’s grist in Kilchoman’s soaps! I picked up a few bars of soaps as gifts and for myself. A Laphroaig bar for my dear friend who loves their peaty whiskies, and a Lussa Gin bar to pair with the bottle I’d buy for another friend as a gift!

Last but not least, they’ve recently changed their soap packaging to be plastic free! Printed by It’s a Wrap UK, in a carbon neutral factory, the inks are made from soya-based vegetable oils, on environmentally friendly, biodegradable and recyclable materials! Local Islay-made soaps, eco-friendly packaging… what more could you ask for?

So, stop by when you’re in Bowmore! You’ll be sure to pick up some things for yourself and for friends!

Spirited Soaps is also available for purchase in their online shop, located here.

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7.3 Peatzeria in Bowmore

Besides the absolutely delightful name (who doesn’t love a pun?), their pizzas are incredible as is their dessert! To give you an idea of what their pizza toppings … my first time at Peatzeria, I was sitting outside on their terrace, enjoying a view of the sea. A delivery man walked by, holding a crate of fresh lobsters, and proceeded to walk into the kitchen. “I like what you got there,” I said to him, in the least creepy, most seafood-excited way. I think he politely looked at me like I was insane.

Besides lobster being on pizza (which I haven’t tried), they have a variety of local seafood favorites – including the one I have tried – scallops and parma ham. If seafood isn’t your thing, there are more traditional pizzas. I’ve tried the black and red, which has incredible black pudding, caramelized red onion chutney, and goats cheese. Hello incredible Scottish flavors!

While they can always give you a box to take away leftovers (they are still delicious the next day), be sure to save some room for dessert. You won’t regret it!

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7.4 Lussa Gin (ok, on Jura but still!)

My search for amazing spirits and great stories brought me to Islay’s neighboring island, Jura. Jura is the home to only 220 people, and is a place where red deer outnumber humans 30 to 1. Only a quick 6 minute ferry ride from Port Askaig to Feolin, and suddenly you’re in a completely different world.

You know that I love my remote places, but the drive up to Ardlussa, home of Lussa Gin, was one of the most remote drives I’ve been on. From the ferry, it’s 25 miles along a single track road, with the most stunning views to offer.

The story of Lussa Gin begins with 3 friends – Alicia, Claire, and Georgina. All three were doing other things in life, until one night in 2015 they decided to come together and make gin. Through some trial and error, and with their first 10 litre copper, alembic still named “Jim”, what resulted was a gin crafted with local botanicals. 15 different ones, to be exact. I know you’re curious which ones, so here is a little excerpt from their brochure:

“The flavour of Lussa Gin is led by juniper (1) with a citrus nose from the lemon thyme (2). It has an aromatic depth of flavour with notes of water mint (3), bog myrtle (4) and Scots pine (5), balanced with a savoury kick from the ground elder (6) and sea lettuce (7). Honeysuckle (8) and elderflower (9) add sweetness and finally, rose petals (10) and rosehip (11) give the gin a smoothness and length of finish.”

The remaining 4 are lighter, but nonetheless critical: coriander seed, lemon balm, orris root, lime tree flowers. 15! To keep things local to Jura, each flower and herb are grown, gathered or foraged in Ardlussa or nearby the estate on Jura.

I was happy to have met Alicia and Georgina when I visited Lussa Gin. Even though their distillery tour is currently not operating due to covid-19, you are allowed to visit (only 2 people allowed at a time). Gotta make sure there’s social distance between the humans, little “Jim” and now his big (200 litre) brother, “Hamish”.

One of the things I loved learning about Lussa Gin, is that the gin is distilled, bottled and labeled by hand, by these three women. A strip of tweed also adorns each bottle. What’s the significance? It is the estate tweed for Ardlussa (where the gin is made), but with an extra green stripe to signify the botanicals. Love the attention to detail!

Come and visit Jura and hear the story of Lussa Gin from the ladies themselves. The story telling goes hand in hand with a sample gin tasting.

The gin was so fresh and aromatic. I tasted it with Walters Gregors, a lovely light tonic from Aberdeenshire – Scotland’s first tonic water! This is Lussa’s tonic pairing of choice. If you’re feeling fancy during those summer months, don’t forget lots of ice, and maybe a wedge of frozen lemon and a spring of mint, lemon thyme, lemon balm, or rose petal!

Be sure to stop by their distillery on Jura for a visit. It’s a beautiful drive, with a beautiful gin at the end of it!

Lussa Gin is available to purchase here!

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7.5 Other Islay small businesses

Port Ellen – Some other small businesses that I love supporting are:

• Campbell’s SPAR – in Port Ellen. My local shop, always good for a laugh and some curry pasta from the deli;
• The Copper Still Coffee – right at Port Ellen pier, open a few days a week for coffees, quiches, sausage rolls and sweet delights!
• Little Charlotte Cafe – a lovely wee cafe next to the White Hart Beach, for luches, coffees and cakes!
• Balaclava Byre – located just outside of Port Ellen (on your way from the airport), the Balaclava Byre is Port Ellen’s newest restaurant and farm shop! Stop there for your Sunday roasts and local produce;
• The Blue Letter Box – cute wee shop (and post office) in Port Ellen, with Arran ice cream in the summers, and locally made gifts for you to fawn over.

Bowmore:

• Lynn Labels – a delightful coffee shop and diner with toasties, scones, and gifts. The scones in the window will make you do a double take!
• Celtic House – a local bookstore and gift shop, with all the Islay and whisky-related books you can ask for! Don’t forget to check out the cafe upstairs, known by me for their milkshakes!

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8. My Islay Whisky Tour (so far)

I wanted to show you that Islay is much more than just its whisky. But when you visit Islay, you can’t overlook their whisky entirely. So here we go!

8.1 Kilchoman Distillery

Of course you can’t visit Islay without visiting a distillery. Let me introduce you to Kilchoman, or “Islay’s Farm Distillery.” Kilchoman Distillery prides themselves as growing most of their own barley on their farmlands and being one of the few distilleries on Scotland to practice traditional floor malting. Kilchoman was established in 2005, and was the first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years!

Be sure to try their 100% Islay whisky, where everything from the barley to the distilling to the warehousing and bottling is 100% completed on Islay!

So far, I’ve managed to do two Kilchoman tastings in person:

• one amazing tasting on the beach in Machir Bay,
• and a tour (plus tasting bottles to go!) in their farm distillery.

Social distanced whisky tasting on the beach, especially with amazing weather, is highly recommended!

Whisky tasting on the beach? SIGN ME UP!

Thanks @Kilchomanwhisky for the fun tasting yesterday. Drinkin’ a Machir Bay in Machir Bay! ☀️🥃🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿😎

Couldn’t have asked for a more gorgeous day to pair with 4 lovely whiskies!

(last photo not mine 😄)@IslayandJura @VisitScotland pic.twitter.com/rbBSi5nz0b

— Lannie Travels (@lannietravels) July 22, 2020

If you have some extra time, you should definitely grab a cullen skink and a toastie from the cafe at Kilchoman. It’s definitely one of my favorite cullen skinks, and not to be missed!

As a little side story, after my first trip to Islay, I brought some tasting packs of the 4 core range Kilchoman whiskies to Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, over in Pitlochry. Iain, a Master Chocolatier, spent an afternoon with me to do a whisky and chocolate pairing. It’s incredible how the flavors of the chocolate bring out the flavors in the whisky!

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8.2 Ardbeg Distillery

Ardbeg Distillery is one of my favorite distilleries to visit on Islay. So much so that it was the first stop on my 40th birthday friends tour of Islay! Look at us all enjoying ourselves on the Ardbeg pier with a crackin, peaty dram.

Ardbeg is quite peaty. Technically their minimum peat-smoking level at 55 ppm is one of the highest in the whisky industry. And who doesn’t love a peaty whisky?! The Ardbeg 10 is a classic, and Corryvreckan is probably one of my favorites!

Take a tour to take a peak at their new stills, housed in a new still house! You’ll have to take a tour to take a peek at the views the stills have into the bay.

Andddd, if it’s a sunny day during high season, you have to eat at the ARDstream food truck!

For me, it was a wild mushroom bao – and it was delicious as it sounds. They have both hot options on the griddle, and lighter fare like sandwiches and scones. During the winter, the Old Kiln Cafe is open for lunch inside, and their food is literally exquisite! One of the best distillery meals I’ve ever had!

Pop into the distillery shop, which is quirky and fun in itself! You can purchase different types of tasting packs and some Ardbeg cocktails, to enjoy outside on the picnic tables or at home.

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8.3 Bunnahabhain Distillery

Bunnahabhain Distillery is an interesting Islay whisky, in that it mostly produces unpeated spirit! Their style is unpeated, sherry whiskies, which is a delicious combination in my humble opinion. One of my favorite whisky tastings on Islay has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting, often hosted by Islay whisky legend, David Brodie.

In fact, it was another stop on my 40th birthday friends tour around Islay!

The Warehouse 9 tasting will keep you entertained as you learn about the different sherry types of sherry that Bunnahabhain casks used to hold, and how that affects the taste of their whiskies. If you’re lucky, a certain someone may serenade you with a guitar and a song.

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8.4 Ardnahoe Distillery

The newest member of the Islay whisky distillery club is Ardnahoe Distillery. Ardnahoe only opened in April 2019. However, before the distillery opened, Ardnahoe had already begun filling casks back in 2018. Now, we wait, as they mature. For those who are eager beavers, casks are available for purchase on their website. Their whiskies will be heavily peated (with roughly the same PPM as average Laphroaig whiskies), with notes of tropical fruit and earthy cereal. Sounds great to me!

Besides distilling their own whiskies at Ardnahoe, they also independently bottle whiskies. Want to go down this rabbit hole with me? That means that they buy spirits from different distilleries and select their own casks for maturation. Some independent bottlers blend together their spirits to make an entirely new whisky. This whisky world is complicated, no?

I didn’t manage a tour the first time, but I had a quick look around their shop and had a stunningly delicious lemon coconut drizzle cake in their beautiful restaurant & cafe. You don’t want to miss the views of the Paps of Jura from the gorgeous terrace either!

My second time at Ardnahoe, I popped by for a whisky and food pairing. Being a ridiculous foodie, and someone who is loving whisky more and more, food and whisky together are my kryptonite. The pairings change, but that day, we had:

• Scarabus (bottled from the same company that owns Ardnahoe) – paired with a blue cheese mouse on oat cakes,
• (a palette cleanser of tomatoes, cucumbers, and dill)
• a smokey Isle of Skye Talisker 8 years old, paired with a venison sausage roll,
• (a palette cleanser of strawberry and melon with basil)
• and Laphroaig 12 years old, matured in a Sherry cask, paired with a chocolate, orange tart.

I absolutely loved this experience! I’m always amazed how the smell and flavor of whisky changes before and after food! Such a complicated spirit.

Even though I already had nibbles during the food and whisky tasting, I needed to sober up before driving home – ahh the downfalls of solo activities. However, the restaurant in Ardnahoe (called the Illicit Still hehe) has incredible food. One lobster garlic noodles for me!

Do you see how whisky isn’t the only reason to visit Islay? But the food too! The food can hold its own!

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Parting Thoughts

When you visit Islay, you’re enveloped in this magical blanket of warmth and hospitality. I hope I was able to convey a bit of that in this post along with sharing some ideas on the best things to do in Islay.

I had an absolutely amazing time during my first trip to Islay. It was only 7 days, but it left such an impression on me that I made it my home nine months later!! It’s such a special place – magical even. Everyone was so friendly and lovely to talk to, which continues to this day. The community on Islay welcomed me with open arms, as they will you too!

Not only has Islay enchanted me, but so did neighboring Jura! I’d love to spend more time on Jura.

• To stay or simply to have a meal at the Jura Hotel, famous for their Jura venison and some Lussa Gin ice cream to wrap up the meal.
• To visit the Jura Distillery – their “Jura: The Sound” whisky was the last thing I bought at the Dubai Duty Free airport before lockdown. It was a welcome companion during lockdown days.
• Properly see the island and some wildlife, with Jura Island Tours.
• Find someone to go hiking with, because this wild land needs to be hiked and the remoteness of the island genuinely makes me want to be with someone who knows where they’re going.

Did my determination to photograph all the distilleries extend to Jura? Of course it did.

So as you can see, even though I am not a whisky connoisseur, I’ve had a very fulfilling experience both on my first visit, and now, living there. Islay whisky is world renowned, but hopefully you can see that there’s so much more to the island than just the whisky.

Until next time, hope everyone is staying socially distant and safe. Be well, and find some Islay whisky or Lussa Gin to drink responsibly, friends!

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Map for your things to do in Islay

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