Two wonderfully delicious nights at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

My first time visiting Islay, the Queen of the Hebrides, was in August 2020 after the first covid lockdown lifted. And I stayed for about a week. My time on Scotland’s famous whisky island was absolutely wonderful, so wonderful that I moved to Islay in 2021! Part of the reason my original stay was so fabulous was due to my time spent at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay. 

But before I begin, I know we Americans want to pronounce Charlotte like SHAR-lett (in the same vein of Charlotte McDougal York from Sex and the City).  But I’m here to tell you that that on Islay, it’s pronounced more phonetically – CHAR-lett.  Say it out loud.  Port CHAR-lett.  Now you’ve got it. And now, onto my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

did you say it right?

1. Where is Port Charlotte, Islay?

Port Charlotte is a village located on the western side of Islay, on the Rhinns of Islay (a peninsula that juts out from the rest of the island).  Now, Islay is not a big island, and you can probably drive the whole length of the island in about an hour.  But believe me – it’s a different feel on the other side of the island! 

1.1 How to reach Port Charlotte by Ferry / Car

If your ferry disembarks from Port Askaig, it will take you about 25 minutes to reach Port Charlotte. From the ferry port, head south on A846 for 7.8 miles, and then turn right at Bridgend onto A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

If you’re coming from Port Ellen, it will take you about 30 minutes to Port Charlotte. Since Port Ellen is at the southern tip of the island, you’ll drive north on B8016 (the funnest straight road to drive in Islay) for about 9 miles. You’ll reach the end of B8016, and take a slight right onto A846 for 0.7 miles. As you reach Bridgend, you’ll turn left on A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

1.2 How to reach Port Charlotte from the Islay Airport

When you exit the airport, turn left onto A846. After about 5 miles, you’ll begin to enter into the town of Bowmore. Turn left onto Main Street in Bowmore (at the round church).

If you want a little stop on Main Street Bowmore, check out Spirited Soaps, for some homemade soaps with your favorite Islay and Jura whiskies and gins as a base!

Once you hit the end of Main Street, A846 turns right and you continue on for less than 3 miles when you reach Bridgend, and turn left onto A847 for the last 7.7 miles of your journey onto Port Charlotte.

2. Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

When doing my research, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay consistently came up as having amazing food, and a lively, award-winning whisky bar. Since its housed inside the village of Port Charlotte itself, it’s a really social place to stay in Islay. Delightful hotel, amazing food, and a village-watering-hole feel?  Yes, yes – that’s kind of exactly what I’m looking for.

When I arrived in Port Charlotte, I immediately fell in love with the village.  With gorgeous white-washed houses, and stunning views of the bay, it was almost like a Scottish version of Santorini.  Of course, with different weather.  Normally, the Port Charlotte Hotel has both outdoor dining and a dining conservatory with views of the bay. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the village of Bowmore across the sea. 

Now that you have a feel of the place, onward to my stay!

3. My Stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay for two nights in August 2020, for £180 per night in the high season.  This included an amazing breakfast, which I’ll get to as well.  To skip everything and jump down to the costs, click here.

As a result of COVID-19, check in took place from behind a plexiglass window, with hand sanitizers around.  I was given my key and check in papers in a sealed envelope.  This is the world of hospitality now. 

The envelope included information about their COVID-19 safety measures, as well as a dinner menu.  I made dinner reservations in advance, as was suggested by the hotel a few days prior.  If you know me, you know I love making reservations in advance, even if it’s not required.  I like to know where my next meal comes from.

After arriving in Room 1 and taking a luxurious soak in the bath tub, I was ready to relax in my room and take in the stunning views.  By that time, the weather changed, and it became a rainy and extremely stormy rest of the afternoon.  From the bed, I could look out to the Islay lighthouse, and watch the ebbs and flows of the stormy sea.  So relaxing. 

And the next thing you know, it’s time for dinner. 

4. Dining at the Port Charlotte Hotel, Islay

Even before I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I already heard about its legendary meals. Chef Chris Martin is the brainchild behind the hearty and delicious traditional Scottish fare at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

Below is a collage of my meals during my stay.

Since I don’t know if you’re viewing this on your phone or a laptop, i’ll just share what you may find in these photos:

• two full Scottish breakfasts – why two? because they were both AMAZINGLY delicious and I obviously had to share;
• the interior of the restaurant in the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay;
• Dinner consisting of:
  • hand dived scallops with black pudding bonbon,
  • chocolate lava cake for dessert,
  • a rob roy chicken (don’t know what that is? I wrote about it before, here);
• Another dinner consisting of: seafood chowder (smoked haddock, salmon, prawns), and traditional fish & chips (Islay ale battered haddock).

Do you see what I mean about the delicious food on offer at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay?? Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, the restaurant is an institution on Islay and you just absolutely have to eat there!

The menu changes per season and dinner mains range from 14 GBP to 30 GBP ($19 USD to $40 USD),

For those on Islay now, they’re currently open for takeaway!

5. The Port Charlotte Bar

If you wanna experience village life, there is no better place than the bar at the Port Charlotte Hotel. Don’t let the photos lead you astray. It was empty in the below photos only momentarialy, and then locals and tourists alike began to meander in. Warmed by the roaring fire and smokey, peaty whiskies, this was the perfect place to spend an afternoon while the rain and wind kept most of us inside.

I was in the mood for a peaty whisky to warm me up. It’d been a driech few months of rain and wind, and that day in Islay was no different. Gary, the bartender, recommended the Ardbeg 10. He served it alongside some pleasant conversation. Gary is a former police officer (not from Islay), who walked into the bar five or six years ago, and as the story goes, he never left.

Back to the Ardbeg 10. Vanilla and heavily peated, with a finish that’s been described as,

“Long and glorious; sea salted caramel and beach bonfire smoke.”

Master of Malt

Perfect for a cold and windy Islay day.

6. Distilleries and brewery near Port Charlotte Islay

If you’re staying on Islay, of course whiskies or other adult beverages have to be on your itinerary. Here’s a list of all the whisky and gin distilleries, and one craft beer brewery, on this side of Islay. Easily to reach from your comfy, cozy room at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

6.1 Kilchoman – Islay’s Farm Distillery

I had the pleasure of touring Kilchoman when I visited Islay in July 2020. Known as Islay’s farm distillery, Kilchoman is proud to grow most of their own barley on their farmlands. I bet you didn’t realize that most of distilleries buy their barley! Not only that, Kilchoman is one of the only distilleries that still has a traditional malting floor, to malt their own barley.

Not only did I tour the distillery, but I also did a tasting on the beach at Machir Bay with them. It was an absolute joy and highly recommended when the weather warms up! Loved trying their Machir Bay single malt in Machir Bay!

6.2 Bruichladdich Distillery

I first became familiar with Bruichladdich, when a friend brought their famous blue “The Classic Laddie” bottle back from a duty free shop in the airport. The distillery produces three different brands of whiskies, which ranges from unpeated to super heavily peated whiskies:

• Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) – an unpeated, single malt Scotch;
• Port Charlotte – the heavily peated, single malt;
• and Octomore – the super heavily peated, single malt.

Currently, the distillery is closed to visitors (due to pre-planned construction in 2020). But is anticipated to reopen in 2021!

The Botanist Gin from Bruichladdich

One of the things I really wanted to do on Islay (but no, coronavirus had other plans) was to go on a foraging walk with the people who make The Botanist Gin. Made with 22 types of botanicals by the people at Bruichladdich Distillery, The Botanist is one of two Islay gins.

To me, gin is more of a spring and summer drink. Can’t wait for some warm sunshine to go with a refreshing G&T!

6.3 Nerabus Islay Gin

The other gin produced on Islay is from Nerabus. Their shop and visitor center is located in Bridgend. Not really on the Rhinns peninsula, but pretty darn close!

I’ve never tried Nerabus Gin, but it is the only dedicated gin production on Islay! Made in small batches with luscious spring water on Islay, Nerabus gin is infused with wild Islay heather.

6.4 Islay Ales

Well, if Nerabus Islay Gin is not technically on the Rhinns peninsula, then neither is its neighbor – Islay Ales. But, in the spirit of spirits on “this side” the island, Islay Ales is the only brewery on Islay.

Their beers, like whisky, comes from barley. The barley in Islay Ales – yep, you guessed it – comes straight from the island.

You can fine Islay Ales across the island and enjoy a tasting flight at the brewery itself. Here’s me, cheersing the island, with their Big Strand Craft Lager.

7. Other things to do near Port Charlotte Islay

1. Take a stroll on the beach! Machir Bay and Saligo Bay are nearby. White sands and clear blue waters sound more like the Caribbean than in Scotland. Don’t let the moody backdrop of the sky fool you – it’s gorgeous in any weather.
2. Go back in time with a vist to the Museum of Islay Life, right in Port Charlotte.
3. Go way further back in time, at the Kilnave Chapel and Cross. The chapel dates to the late 14th century, whereas the cross was built between the 5th – 8th century.
4. See some seals lounging around in and around Portnahaven and its neighboring village, Port Wemyss. Stroll along the coast to see views of the Rhinns of Islay lighthouse.
5. Spend the day observing some wildlife at Loch Gruinart nature reserve.

It’s easy to venture beyond Port Charlotte and the Rhinns to the rest of Islay. To help plan your trip, check out my Ultimate Guide to Islay.

8. Parting thoughts on my stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

If I could sum up my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay, I’d have to say it was:

cozy

homey

warm

delicious

If this is what you’re looking for, with a side of a lively village bar, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay is absolutely your place!

9. Important details for your stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

Port Charlotte Hotel
Port Charlotte,
Isle of Islay,
PA48 7TU.

Contact:
Email: [email protected]
Tele : +44 01496 850360

Cost:

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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