Glenegedale House – 5 glorious nights in luxury

Sometimes the lure of lush hospitality is too great to ignore. The first time I visited Islay, Scotland’s glorious whisky island, I spent 5 delicious nights at Glenegedale House. Now that I own a place on this delightful island, I’ve also done a wee staycation at Glenegedale House. If you love freshly baked goods and warm cozy fires, this is the place for you too! You’re probably intrigued now.

{For those who want to pronounce it properly like I always do, break it up into 4 syllables and say: GLEN-egg-uh-DALE. House. Glenegedale House. Got it?}

1. The lure of Glenegedale House

I first became acquainted with Glenegedale House through social media. In early 2020, Glenegedale House won Visit Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. The award definitely caught my attention. Although I was not looking for the best luxury accommodation on Islay, when I found it, need I look further?

When I travel, amazing hospitality is just one of those things that I specifically look for. And for a place to win an award specific to its hospitality, well, let’s just say I put a little mental note in my brain to visit and stay at Glenegedale House sometime in the near future!

Several hours of internet lurking and months of obsessing over their Instagram, I discovered that they were famous for their baking. Fresh, warm pastries at breakfast, coffee and cakes for afternoon tea. Over covid lockdown, they also sold tray bakes and other baked goods out of an honesty box on their grounds.

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2. My Islay bed and breakfast decision

I consulted with one of my friends, who works for a drinks company with a distillery on Islay. She solidified the choice of Islay as a holiday, but also Glenegedale House as the place to stay while on Islay. She visited a few years back and stayed for one night. Any guesses where that one night was?

Glenegedale House.

She told me that if I was looking for a low key Scottish island, with hiking opportunities and interesting things to see, Islay was the place for me. And if I were looking to be well fed with baked goods and taken care of by the best proprietress, Glenegedale House was the luxury accommodation on Islay that I had to choose.

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Let’s have a bit of a recap: When you go stay at Glenegedale House, you get the full experience of hospitality, including someone making you fresh baked goods 24-7. I think you can all get on board with that.

Now that I’ve introduced its baked goods, let me properly introduce you to this luxury accommodation on Islay – Glenegedale House.

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3. How to get to Glenegedale House

The bed and breakfast is located in the south of the Island, just across the street from the Islay airport. It is less than a 10 minute drive from Port Ellen, which has one of the island’s main ferry ports.

• From Port Ellen, take the A846 northwest leaving town. After a weird left and a right to stay on A846, you’ll go straight on A846. When you see the airport on your left, Glenegedale House is on your right.

• From Port Askaig (the other ferry terminal on Islay), you can either follow A846 south all the way to Glenegedale House (approx 25 – 30 minutes). You’ll pass through Bowmore on the way.

Or you can take the funner way from Port Askaig, which is heading south on A846 and then after Bridgend (8.5 miles), turn left onto B8016. After 6 miles of straight, uninterrupted road, you’ll see a sign for Glenegedale and you’ll turn right. This also takes approximately 25-30 minutes, but trust me – it’s much funner drive this way.

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4. Arriving to my luxury accommodation on Islay

I arrived to Islay from the ferry port in Port Askaig. The ferry was supposed to arrive around 2:30 PM, but was slightly delayed in leaving the Scottish mainland. The day before, Emma from Glenegedale emailed asking what time I would check in. Even though it only takes 30 minutes to get from Port Askaig to Glenegedale, I told her I’d arrive at 4 PM.

Why 4 PM? I always want to add in extra time to get lost, find my way, or stop for refreshments. Without getting lost and beaming of the pride of punctuality, I arrived at 3:57 PM.

Unbeknownst to me, I was Glenegedale’s first guest after Scotland’s first lockdown ended in July 2020.

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4.1 Glenegedale House’s COVID-19 Preparedness

Speaking of the large, ugly pandemic in the room, I should firstly say that the standard of everything at Glenegedale House is so high that you should not worry about covid preparedness.

But in case you’d like to know specifically, here are the measures Glenegedale House has taken to ensure their guests are safe!

1. Certified as “We’re Good to Go!” by Visit Scotland;
2. Hand sanitizing stations at doors and located inside;
3. Masks on during welcoming a guest;
4. Some kind of anti-virus sanitization spray for the furniture and rooms, after a guest uses the area.

During my stay, I never once felt that things were not sanitized properly. It is very clear that those in the tourism and hospitality industries take COVID-19 precautionary measures extremely seriously. So try to relax and let the hospitality of a luxury accommodation on Islay envelop you.

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4.2 A welcome with Baked Goods

When I first arrived, I was brought into their sitting room some rest and an Islay chat with Emma, my hostess. We are just chit chatting along about Islay and whiskies and my love of Scotland when all of a sudden, out comes this gorgeous tray of fine china and silver with my coffee.

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Followed in very close succession by another tray with something to pair with the coffee, of course:

Coffee and Hazelnut Cake
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Hamlyn Oats and Blueberry Flapjacks, with a Kilchoman Saligo Bay Whisky Drizzle

Are you just sitting there and salivating right now? That would make two of us! Both were made fresh that day, by Emma, our hostess with the mostest. And, in case you needed to me to specifically say, it was absolutely delicious!!

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5. My Room at Glenegedale House

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a Double Room with ensuite facilities (i.e. a private bathroom and shower). The cost of 198 GBP a night (or approximately $275 USD) includes both bed and breakfast. And, as you’ll see shortly, THE BREAKFAST IS PHENOMENAL.

Back to the room!

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Imagine laying in bed with warm wool and tweed all around you, maybe it’s a sunny day outside or maybe it’s a little dreich… watching the sea from the window, while snuggling in bed.

I loved the soft grey and heather colors of the tweed and wool. The thick, native Scottish fabrics made the room sooooo warm and inviting. Considering that it was quite chilly and brisk in July, you’ll want that extra warmth!

But not only that, I absolutely loved the gorgeous wallpaper from Timorous Beasties. Fun fact, I already knew about Timorous Beasties and lusted after that thistle wallpaper even before I visited! Does that mean me and Glenegedale House are a match made in interior decorating heaven? ABSOLUTELY.

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Glenegedale House carries toiletries from ARRAN Sense of Scotland, from neighboring Isle of Arran. The chosen scent, “After the Rain,” is a warm and refreshing mix of lime, rose and sandalwood. Their products are cruelty free and environmentally friendly!

My washroom had a shower and not a bathtub. The pressure was high and the water was hot. No complaints here!

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5.1 Amenities in my Room

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Maybe this is a little known fact about me – I bring coffee with me everywhere I go. That means, I’m alway looking coffee making facilities in the room.

Fear not, the room comes with all of the following:

• armoire and chest of drawers for your clothes,
• kettle and mugs (with coffee, tea, and all the trimmings),
• a TV (but I never watched),
• and a full length mirror which was glorious.

In case I didn’t mention it before, free WiFi and free parking is also included!

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6. The Food and Drinks at Glenegedale House

Ok, I know I teased you with the coffee cake and blueberry flapjacks. You all must know that if I’m foreshadowing some epic food, it should live up to expectations.

For Emma, food is her way of sharing her passion for Islay and Scotland. You can taste the warmth and hospitality in each bite. When creating recipes, she tries to use local Islay ingredients and products. If local products from Islay are not available, she selects ingredients from local producers in Argyll and Bute, and then Scotland, and then finally broad UK-British brands and products. And you’ll see this in the food I highlight below. If she can support local businesses, she will.

Breakfast is obviously provided, and beginning in 2021, Glenegedale House also began offering dinner options. Do note that there are no lunch options. However, they can prepare a picnic basket if you’re looking to do that!

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6.1 Breakfast offers at Glenegedale House

Pre-pandemic breakfast at Glenegedale House was a vast and lush buffet that people regularly rave about online. The buffet is no longer. But, if you think that removing a buffet means less food, you are absolutely wrong!

Breakfast is served between 7 – 8 am, also known as the absolute perfect time for breakfast. Retreating back into bed with a full belly is not only a good idea, it may even be recommended.

First up, baked goods. Each morning there are warm, straight-out-of-the-oven baked delights in a variety of shapes and flavors. During time my there, Emma delighted me every morning with my cup of coffee and the following baked goods:

1. Apricot and almond muffins;
2. Banana bread;
3. Fig and walnut bread.

Amazing tip for solo travelers – you still get 2 muffins and 2 pieces of fresh bread in the morning, same as the couple next to you. Basically, the one time known to mankind where being a solo traveler gives you some kind of a benefit! (ok, I digress…)

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From then, you can take a gander at the breakfast menu for their mains:

1. Smoked Salmon and Scrambled Eggs – Argyll Salmon smoked in Campbeltown with some of our own Glenegedale hen eggs scrambled with creme fraiche and a little salt and pepper and a slice of homemade brown bread;
2. Full Hebridean Breakfast – Smoked Ayrshire bacon, Glenegedale hen eggs (fried poached or scrambled), pork and herb sausage made by our local butcher in Bowmore, ove roasted tomato, Ramsay’s of Carluke Haggis, mushroom and a wee dish of Heinz baked beans;
3. Cheese Platter – A selection of cheese, served with a little fruit, homemade oatcakes, and a wee dish of chutney;
4. Eggs and Soldiers – 1 or 2 boiled eggs done as you like, with some freshly toasted bread to tip.

Or if a simple porridge and cream is your thing (or oatmeal for us Americans!), they also have Scotts Porridge Oats made slowly with water, served with cream and whisky (Laphroaig 10) on the side!

For a full Islay bed and breakfast experience, I would recommend the Full Hebridean Breakfast, paired with a side of porridge and whisky. For those who don’t know what Hebridean breakfast is, it’s your tried and true Scottish breakfast, but with ingredients from the Hebrides.

They also make their own poached fruits that go deliciously with the porridge. For me, it was plums with vanilla and cinnamon, rhubarb with root ginger, and pears with ginger and cloves. Sound too good to be true? Absolutely!

See how glorious Glenegedale House breakfasts are??

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6.2 Dinners

Nowadays, dinner can be booked at Glenegedale House 6 nights a week. You can also do a meat and cheese board separate from their dinners.

At least once a week, there will be a seafood platter night. I would highly recommend ordering the seafood platter, as it is absolutely stunning! We’ll get to the seafood platter in a bit. For me, did I have both charcuterie and seafood platters (on different nights)? Obviously I did.

Have I also sampled dinners at Glenegedale House on my staycation stay there? Of course I did. I’ll give you a wee look into the dinners I’ve had at Glenegedale House.

6.2.1 Dinner at Glenegedale House

So far, I’ve had three delightful dinners with Emma and Graeme, two during my staycation and one as a guest of a guest a few weeks later. The quality of food is absolutely phenomenal and I genuinely enjoyed dining there!! Some things that you’ll see in the photos below:

• hand dived Islay scallop mornay (with melted, Isle of Mull cheddar);
• Dunlossit venison steak, with junipery Lussa Gin and Cairnmore Bay jus;
• Argyll smoked salmon tartare, with Lagavulin wild garlic pesto. The smoked salmon (smoked by Argyll smokery) has been smoked over Islay whisky barrel shavings, specifically for Glenegedale House!
• creme brulee with fresh raspberries and mint.

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Some items not shown include Scottish cornfed chicken breast stuffed with cheese and herbs, along with sticky toffee pudding (my absolute favorite Scottish desert)!

6.2.2 The Meat and Cheese Board

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The amazing thing about this charcuterie board are the deliciously local ingredients. We had meat and cheeses from Islay, the Isle of Mull, the Isle of Gigha, and New Lanark (on the mainland). Scottish food at its finest!

Also, the delicious oatcakes are Emma’s own recipe made from the peaty grist from Laphroaig! See how whisky pairs with basically everything?

For the baking savvy wanting to try to make Emma’s Hamlyn Oats and Laphroaig oatcakes, give it a try! For extra fun, she did a cooking demonstration recently on Facebook Live and walks you through the easy recipe!

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6.2.3 The Seafood Board

Emma knew that I wanted to have a seafood dinner during one of my evenings. She suggested that I eat it on S & B’s last night (the other guests staying at Glenegedale), so that we could all enjoy our seafood dinners together. Having been to Kilchoman’s beach whisky tasting with S&B (and had delightful conversation over breakfasts and in passing), I thought that was a wonderful suggestion and happily agreed.

Before I get to the actual seafood dinner, I should give a brief intro into my excitement level leading up to this meal. Even though I was born in a landlocked state, I’m pretty confident that island life is for me. Everything about living on an island speaks to me – the water, the sand, the sun, the landscape. The food. But, specifically, the fresh seafood. My love of seafood is only outweighed by my ignorance at preparing it myself. I’ll need to work on this…

Back to this seafood dinner. So, island gal at heart, eyes sparkling, when this arrives:

If you’re confused at this, don’t be – this is 1 person’s portion. Even now, months later, I’m still rendered speechless at the sight of this.

(Internal dialogue – get it together and say something!)

Suffice it to really say, we all enjoyed ourselves immensely. The dinner had lots of laughter, so much warmth, and (at least for me) periods of standing up to make room for dessert.

Although I regularly boast about how much I can eat, I simply could not eat everything on this platter. Plus, there was still dessert! A delectable chocolate and Lagavulin mousse.

Emma suggested I make a sandwich for tomorrow’s lunch. Crab salad sandwich with all the fixings, here I come! Not to worry folks. If not for the crab sandwich, the chickens get the leftovers. So nothing goes to waste!

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7. Glenegedale House – the farm

Since I spent so much time at Glenegedale House, the family thought it would be fun for me to go on a walk with their son, Cameron, as he feeds the animals. Cameron, a newly joined and super excited vet student, took me to see their baby chickens and sheep.

For those of us city slickers who don’t realize, raising animals can include submitting them into competitions (which may or may not include photo shoots with hair dryers and floofing), selling fertilized eggs online during the pandemic (so people can hatch chicks), sheering the wool off of sheep (which cost more than the wool itself), and putting trays and trays of fresh eggs in the honesty box out front.

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All of this is new to me, and as Cameron unveils this secret world, I put together the pieces of the chicken photo shoot puzzle.

The day before, Emma told a story that she just got off a Zoom call when she sees her kids walk out back with a hair dryer and a brush. She doesna wanna know. And now, Cameron, talking about primping a chicken for a competition.

In fairness, it is a beautiful chicken.

When I refer to “the farm”, I mean that in actuality. In addition to chickens, roosters, and sheep, Glenegedale House also has a pair of horses. You’ll always cross paths with Millie, their daughter, with her shy smile on her horse.

All of these are delightful sights and experiences for someone who spends most of their time in cities (or conflict zones!). Not to mention, who doesn’t want to hold baby chicks while on holiday???

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8. Things to do near Glenegedale House

Islay is a small island, sizewise. The below list is just showing what is within the vicinity of Glenegedale House. For other places on the island, which are easily accessible by car or bus from Glenegedale, I have written about them in other posts, here and here. Feel free to check it out!

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8.1 Port Ellen

Port Ellen (actually pronounced POR-tellen) is one of the bustling towns on Islay – the other being Bowmore. You can find everything you need in Port Ellen – the post office, grocery stores, a gas station, and some delightful small businesses. In fact, Port Ellen may even be your first stop on Islay from the CalMac ferry.

I’m only listing my favorite businesses in Port Ellen below – there will be more soon, but I didn’t manage to visit during covid times!

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8.1.1 Sea Salt Bistro

One of your meals on Islay has to be at Sea Salt Bistro. And I absolutely insist on this. Gorgeously fresh seafood, amazing service, and unforgettable food!

Do I still think of this seafood linguini every single day? Obviously, yes.

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8.1.2 The Blue Letterbox

The Blue Letterbox is combination post office and gift shop, and is a must-visit for gifts from your stay in Port Ellen. The shop proudly showcases items from local producers from Islay, as well as nearby Colonsay and Jura.

For me, a couple of tea towels and some sea glass jewelry.

But not only that, there was a snafu when I visited – the Blue Letterbox also does currency exchange from USD to GBP when there are issues with the bank or ATM!

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8.2 Distilleries near Glenegedale House

Islay currently has 9 distilleries, with three of them within walking distance of Port Ellen town! Not only are these the closest distilleries to Glenegedale House, but they’re also the three that comprise the Three Distilleries Walk. During that walk, you come by the southern Islay distilleries:

• Laphroaig – the super peated favorite of Outlander star, Sam Heughan,
• Lagavulin – a peated favorite of Parks and Rec star, Nick Offerman,
• Ardbeg – a distillery and whisky that is new to me! I have an unopened bottle of Ardbeg, An Oa, waiting for me.

You can also visit all of the distilleries individually, and by car. Don’t worry – if you’re the designated driver (or going solo like I do!) you can attend the tour and enjoy the tasting (more the smells, and perhaps a little sip). Your whiskies will come in a nifty to-go bottle so you can enjoy it later.

If you’re not a drinker, don’t worry – the walk is a delight in itself! But for me, I’m looking forward to visiting all three of these and learning more about their rich Islay and scotch history!

You also don’t need to walk there and back – take the bus! or call for a taxi! The walk is good to work off your whisky tastings and food you’ve eaten at one of the distilleries delicious restaurants!

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Even though this is not a full distillery, it will be very soon! The old Port Ellen Distillery was first established as a malt mill in 1825 (with a stint in the middle distilling whisky). It was recently announced by Diageo that they would re-open Port Ellen as a whisky distillery. I think COVID has pushed back those plans, but keep your eyes open! Spirits coming soon.

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8.3 The Big Strand Beach

Ok, everyone wants to stay at a place with a view, but what about a beach within walking distance?

I give you – the Big Strand Beach. Within walking distance of Glenegedale House. The best start to your morning, the best idea during your day, the best way to wind down for your evening.

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8.4 Hike around the American Monument and the Mull of Oa

The Mull of Oa (pronounced “oh” haha) is a peninsula in the southwest of Islay. Located in between Glenegedale House and Port Ellen, it’s a nice afternoon hike out to the cliffs and the American Monument. You can even glimpse some highland coos up on the way to the monument. 

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

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8.5 Historical Sites near Glenegedale House

8.5.1 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

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8.5.2 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton). Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

Gorgeous deer with stnning eyelashes on my way to Kildaton Cross. Same deer, different lens.

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8.6 Other notables on Islay (and neighboring Jura!)

As I said earlier, Islay is not a big island. While the above is just a list of things to do near Glenegedale House, everything on the island is easily accessible, anywhere you stay. The below list of places stood out to me, as places I would definitely visit again next time on Islay, and places I’d love to visit once they’ve re-opened for COVID times.

8.6.1 Bowmore

• Spirited Soaps! A locally owned soap shop, which includes Islay and Jura spirits in their soaps and personal care products.
• Peatzeria – need I say more from the name?
• Bowmore Distillery – the named after Bowmore, the capital of Islay. Can you think of a more classic whisky than a delicious Bowmore?

8.6.2 Rhinns of Islay and the Western side of the island

• Port Charlotte Hotel – an amazing bed and breakfast, with a famous whisky pub and live music!
• Bruichladdich Distillery – with their famous light blue bottling and Octomore, heavily peated brand,
• Kilchoman Distillery – Islay’s farm distillery – they grow most of their own barley and have a traditional malting floor!
• Portnahaven – fishing village, with views of the lighthouse and the place for seal sighting!

8.6.3 The Northern part of the island

• Caol Ila Distillery – the main spirit inside Johnnie Walker’s Black Label! Whisky lovers, did you know that?? Currently closed for renovations;
• Bunnahabhain Distillery – another whisky that I know very little about, and am excited to learn more! If you happen to visit the distillery, I hear there is a shipwreck on the beach nearby!
• Ardnahoe Distillery – Islay’s newest distillery! Their whiskies are in the process of maturing right now, but the distillery and shop have a delicious cafe, with a gorgeous view out to Jura.

8.6.4 Nearby Jura

• Lussa Gin – continue your hunt for great spirits (with great stories) on the neighboring island of Jura!
• Jura Distillery – visit the distillery, whose whisky was a source of comfort through first lockdown! Jura, the Sound, was the last bottle I picked up at duty free on my way to lockdown.
• The Jura Hotel – I didn’t get to visit during my time on Jura, but I hear their venison burgers are the highlight! Definitely coming back next time!
• Visit Barnhill – where George Orwell isolated himself and wrote 1984. It’s located off of a private drive (and involves a hike if you want to see the house ).

8.6.5 Map for your Islay holiday

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9. Parting Thoughts on Glenegedale House

I was so happy to stay at Glenegedale House during my first trip to Islay, and again when I needed a little staycation. There are so many things that I loved! From Graeme and Emma’s kind and warm hospitality, to the constant flow of fresh baked goods, hot coffees, and rich whiskies. They were the kind of hosts that make you feel like family, rather than a visiting guest!

Emma’s smile and laughs are extremely contagious and can fill any room. They were always quick to help (i.e. my bank snafu) or get another whisky (“in 2 shakes”, as Emma always says). And they give the best itinerary suggestions if you haven’t fully researched your trip yet!

There is a reason Glenegedale House won Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. It is truly a wonderful place to stay, and the best luxury accommodation on Islay!

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10. Important details for your stay at Glenegedale House

Glenegedale House
Isle of Islay
Argyll, PA42 7AS

Contact:
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +44 01496 300 400
Mob: +44 07554 669 664

Due to covid, Glenegedale House has flexible booking terms. Send them a note if you have questions! And follow them on Social Media below!

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