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The other day, I decided to head over to the Rhinns, on the western side of the island. My destination: the Bruichladdich walking path. One of the great things about Islay is its abundance of nicely maintained walking paths. The walk that I do most often is the Three Distilleries Path between the village of Port Ellen and Ardbeg Distillery, passing through Laphroaig and Lagavulin along the way. I’d classify the Bruichladdich Walking Path, along with the Three Distilleries Path, as the two great whisky walks on the island and would rank both on my list of the best walks on Islay.
Unveiled recently in spring 2021, the Bruichladdich Foot and Cycle Path runs from the pier in Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. A project of the Islay Community Access Group and the Argyll and Bute Council, in partnership with Bruichladdich Distillery and the Botanist Foundation, the Bruichladdich walking path is a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one way coastal path. Maybe I walked a little further than the path is supposed to be, because my Apple Watch said it was closer to about 1.9 miles each way. But regardless of its length, it’s a beautifully paved path with a few wooden bridges and coastal views throughout.
Have I got your attention?
Table of Contents
1. The start of the Bruichladdich Walking Path
While you can start your walk either in Port Charlotte or in Bruichladdich, I’d recommend starting in Port Charlotte. There’s plenty of street parking in the village of Port Charlotte, and if you’re going to walk there and back, you can stop off at the Port Charlotte Hotel afterwards for a bite to eat or a dram. It’s arguably one of the best places to eat on the island, so a great meal will be something to look forward to! I digress, and of course, am always distracted at the prospect of a great meal.
Port Charlotte (or Port Sgioba in Gaelic) is an idyllic village of beautiful white-washed houses, and the perfect place to start. From the village, walk towards the lighthouse.
2. Sections of Loch Indaal Way
2.1 The Loch Indaal Lighthouse
According to the Northern Lighthouse Board (the General Lighthouse Authority for the waters around Scotland and the Isle of Man), the Loch Indaal Lighthouse was built in 1869 by David and Thomas Stevenson. I never knew that there was an authority governing lighthouses, but it does make sense. The “character” of the lighthouse is described as flashing red and white every 7 seconds, and has a range of 11 nautical miles. The white tower itself is 13 meters high with a balcony and a black lantern. While it serves as a beacon of the Rhinns and the path, there is no public access to the lighthouse.
2.2 Bruichladdich Barley Fields
As you continue walking, besides the gorgeous coastal views, the thing you will see most on the opposite side of the road, is barley. Fields and fields of barley.
Although you may assume it, not all whisky distilleries grow their own barley. And if they do, it’s usually only for certain expressions of whisky, not their full production. The same can be said for Bruichladdich, which grows some of its own barley on Islay – but not all of it. Watching the barley calmly wave in the wind is almost poetic in a way – so soft, so beautiful. Such a wonderful spirit that comes from the barley itself.
2.3 St. Kiaran’s Church
Just past one of the Bruichladdich barley fields, is St. Kiaran’s Church. A Romanesque and Norman-styled church, built in 1897 to accommodate the boom in population the island experienced with the growing number of distilleries. Services are held Sundays at 11:30, and they welcome visitors. By now, you’re about halfway through the Loch Indaal Way.
2.4 War Memorial
Keep going a bit further, and you’ll come across the war memorial monument, commemorating the men of Kilchoman Parish, killed in World War I. From the beautiful stone monument, there are views of Bowmore in the distance, across Loch Indaal.
2.5 The Secret Beach
Ok, it’s probably not so secret. But I love the idea of a “blink and you’ll miss it” beach! Called the Port Ban Beach to those who know, the entrance to the beach is at the war monument. Simply let yourself in behind the gate, but remember to close it back up, in case there are any cows or sheep on that side! From the gate, there’s a paved path and some stairs that go down (and then unpaved as you go about halfway), and you’re nearly there! When you come off the path, first you traverse a bunch of small, smooth rocks, until soft, fine sand reveals itself closer to the water.
The first time I visited, I was alone there with my thoughts and the views. The second time, there was a family playing there in the shallow waters. Locals on Islay are extremely friendly, and after exchanging some delightful pleasantries about the weather and sunshine (always great topics on Islay), I navigated over some rocks and found a little corner of the beach to myself.
I planned ahead on my second trip, and brought with me a little bottle of Bruichladdich’s Classic Laddie. Could I call it one of the great whisky walks on Islay, without some whisky? (I mean, I could…) And of course, I had to choose a spirit from Bruichladdich Distillery, which we will come to when our journey continues.
3. Arrival to Bruichladdich
After a wee dram and some calming waves, I was off again. Not long and I reached Bruichladdich, the halfway point. Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) is a distillery village. As I was researching for this post, I began to wonder what came first – the distillery or the village? Is the distillery named after the village or vice versa?
According to Islay Info (the source of much of my Islay information), the village was built around the distillery in 1881. Unlike other distilleries, Bruichladdich’s Distillery buildings were not converted farmhouses, but built specifically for the distillery. Many of the old Victorian equipment is still in use today!
3.1 Bruichladdich Distillery
Bruichladdich produces three different ranges of whiskies:
- Bruichladdich, which is an unpeated expression – the Classic Laddie, an unaged statement, being one of them (and the one I sampled along the way);
- Port Charlotte, the heavily peated variety (at 40 PPM) – named after our starting point of the Loch Indaal Way!
- and Octomore, the super heavily peated single malt whisky (which ranges from 88 PPM to 167 PPM, depending on the edition) – named after a farm near Port Charlotte.
While I don’t know much about Bruichladdich’s whiskies (being on the other side of the island to me haha), prior to this whisky walk, I had tried Octomore. Rated as the most heavily peated whisky in the world, by a long shot, I just had to know. It wasn’t for me honestly, and that’s ok. Not all whiskies will be your friend. But I’ve only tried it once. I’m open to trying it again.
I did enjoy the Classic Laddie “pairing” with the secret beach. The aroma for me, which arguably was mixed with the salty sea air, was sweet honey. At 50% ABV, it kicked a bit stronger than I would’ve imagined. But it was still a nice addition to my walk!
Bruichladdich Distillery also produces The Botanist Gin, which includes 22 botanicals foraged here on Islay. While gin is not my area of expertise (haha, nor is whisky really), I do enjoy the Botanist. It’s a regular companion when I’m off at my duty station!
While Bruichladdich & The Botanist are currently not offering tours, the Laddie Shop is open for your whisky, gin and souvenirs. Book your slot in advance so you don’t miss out along your walk!
3.2 The Bruichladdich Mini Market
If you’re feeling peckish or need a little coffee pick me up, stop by the Bruichladdich Mini Market for light snacks and refreshments! Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the views of Loch Indaal. You’ve done 2 miles at this point. Pause and savor the moment before you turn around and head back to Port Charlotte!
4. Back in Port Charlotte
When you arrive back to Port Charlotte, you have a few different options. You can:
- stop by the Islay Natural History Museum and learn about Islay’s geology and wildlife;
- visit the Museum of Islay Life, and learn about Islay’s history through its large collection of artifacts and photos;
- eat a phenomenal meal and rest up at the Port Charlotte Hotel (or have a well deserved dram at its whisky bar!)
I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel back in 2020 on my first trip to Islay, and for wonderful hospitality and delicious food, you’re at the right place!
5. Parting Thoughts and Information on the Bruichladdich Walking Path
Filled with stunning views, a secret beach or two, maybe some cows and sheep, what’s not to love about the Loch Indaal Way? I’m absolutely loving Islay’s whisky walks and even more, loving living on this island!
Genuinely, I’m so happy that Islay has a number of walks to go on, that include coastal views coupled with a little whisky to go along with it. This newly opened path is phenomenal! It’s beautifully paved, and an easy walk. Perfect for walking or cycling, and for people of all ages. There’s no shade on the walk, but the sun is rarely blistering on Islay, so you should be ok!
Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich can be reached by car or via the Islay bus system.
I’ve added this map to my trusty AllTrails hiking app, so here it is! For those who don’t have AllTrails, it is an incredible app that has user-verified hiking, walking, and biking routes. I never go hiking without it! Download the free app today ๐
For your Islay vacation planning needs, check out:
- my Ultimate Guide to Islay;
- the two best places to stay on the island: Glenegedale House and the Port Charlotte Hotel;
- my whisky adventure on the other whisky walk on Islay: The Three Distilleries Path;
- Kilchoman Distillery (read about my Feis Ile tastings) with Islay’s only Farm Distillery;
- beloved bluebells if planning to visit between May and June;
- consider a day trip to nearby Colonsay before moving onward!
If you like themed whisky walks or you’re unable to come to Islay just yet, Nio Cocktails brings the Bruichladdich mood to you with some delicious at-home cocktails! These are perfect for when you want a quick cocktail. (I looove the Progressive Old Fashioned!) Just shake and add ice!
Until next time friends, stay safe! And Slainte!
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Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.ย She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!ย She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.
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Secret beaches, light houses, mini markets, rocky coastlines, fish & chips, and a Classic Laddie from Bruichladdich? Yes, please.
right? all the makings of an incredible walk. ๐
It seems for such a small place Islay is not short of anything. Never far away from a coastal view or a distillery. Good luck with getting that walking trail accepted. AllTrails doesnโt seem to like mine. Though yours is more likely.
Islay has everything a woman can ask for. Including walks that may or may not have a single malt whisky attached to it. ๐
I love coastal walks! And I love that this one also includes small villages, churches and a lighthouse. It seems like the perfect length too. I didn’t know you could submit hikes to All Trails…
I agree with all of the above, Steven! Also, at 4 miles, I definitely agree it’s the perfect length. ๐
Well, let’s see about AllTrails. it’s still pending ๐
Island and whisky – a perfect mix! Islay island seems like a very magical place to live in ๐
Yes! Magical is the most-used word to describe Islay ๐
Sounds like a great walk, this island sounds more and more appealing each week. I love finding the little beaches and well there’s whisky๐
Finding or exploring new beaches is kind of the best, and my new hobby right now. ๐ well, and whisky ๐