It was Nowruz holiday. This is New Year in Persian cultures, including places like Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, to Azerbaijan, and almost everywhere in between. Instead of taking a shared taxi or the train, we hired a private taxi to take us. Shared taxis are common in Uzbekistan, and train travel there is typically simple. However, for the holiday many taxis weren’t operating and the trains were sold out. So, onward, for a full day journey down to Samarkand.

1. History of Samarkand

Samarkand is one of Central Asia’s oldest inhabited cities. This is mostly because of its location on the Silk Road. Archaeological sites in the area revealed that its earliest inhabitants were between the 12th – 7th millenia BC. Although there is no direct evidence when Samarkand was founded, scientists believe it to be between the 8th and 7th centuries BC.

In 329 BC, Alexander the Great conquered Samarkand. At that time, the city went by its Greek name, Maracanda. From then, a string of conquerors and empires ruled Samarkand. First, the Persian Sassanians around 260 AD. Then, the Turks and Arabs. Legends from this time tell a story of two Chinese prisoners from the Battle of Talas (751 AD), who revealed the secret of papermaking, leading to the foundation of the Islamic world’s first paper mill in Samarkand. The secrets of making paper then spread to the rest of the Islamic world, and onward to Europe.

By 1220, the Mongols under Genghis Khan conquered Samarkand. The Mongols ruled until 1307 when Timur (or Tamurlane) made Samarkand the capital of the Timurid Empire. And so began the Timurid Renaissance, during which all of the places we visit in this post, were built.

This is where our journey begins.

2. The trip to Samarkand

A brief note for travelers to Uzbekistan, most Uzbeks do not speak English. Of course, I don’t really expect them to. Oftentimes, the ability to communicate with locals is the key to easily getting around a country. However, let me just say, we could not communicate with our driver.

There were times where we thought we had communicated to pull over for a bathroom break. As soon as we opened the door and stepped outside the car, the driver yelled at us to get back in. The driver subsequently sped off with some kind of vigor. There were times that my friend attempted some form of communication to say she wanted food with no meat. We even showed “no meat” in Uzbek on Google Translate. Curious what we got? Meat filled samosas.

This isn’t to say the driver was unkind or intentional in the way he treated us. There were just serious gaps in communication.

When we were nearing Samarkand, our driver began (almost frantically) yelling “Ulugh Beg! Ulugh Beg!” Do you have any idea what’s happening? Neither do we. But soon, we pulled into a parking lot of the Ulugh Beg Observatory on the outskirts of Samarkand.

3. Ulugh Beg Observatory

3.1 Who is Ulugh Beg?

You can’t visit Samarkand without being introduced to Ulugh Beg. But, if you don’t know who Ulugh Beg is, you wouldn’t be the only one. Ulugh Beg (prounounced oo-LOOG beg) was a sultan in the Timurid Empire, reigning only from 1447 – 1449. During his short reign, he never established authority and was subsequently overthrown and assassinated. However, the world remembers Ulugh Beg foremost an astronomer and mathematician.

The Ulugh Beg Observatory, built in the 1420s, was one of the finest observatories in the Islamic world. From there, Ulugh Beg calculated the length of a year, within 25 seconds of today’s calculations. Copernicus, on the other hand, only calculated the length of a year within 30 seconds. His great contributions to astronomy include the calculation of earth’s axial tilt and the creation of a star catalogue. His star catalogue, which has 1,018 stars, includes only 11 less than Ptolemy.

3.2 Ulugh Beg Observatory Museum

Below are photos from the Observatory Museum itself. Extremely crowded inside, because of its small interior and the holiday tourists. I am claustrophobic when there’s lots of people around, so I couldn’t fully enjoy myself. The plaques included English translations, but my claustrophobia forced me out before I fully read them.

3.3 The Astronomical Sextant

Across from the museum was a giant tunnel, with a beautiful tile facade decorating the entrance. Tons of people crowded around the entrance to this giant tunnel. But what is it?

When we reached the mouth of the tunnel, we stared into the below abyss. With literally no clue what we were looking at. This is the only part of the observatory that still remains. Yet, we were clueless as to its importance.

Little did we know, this abyss was the pièce de résistance of the Ulugh Beg Observatory.

Not an expert on astronomy? Fear not! Neither were we. What you’re looking at is an astronomical sextant, basically 1/6th of a circle. No clue what an astronomical sextant is? Me either! It’s a device primarily used in measuring the position of stars. There are two types of sextants – a mural sextant and a framed sextant. The one at Ulugh Beg is a mural sextant. From the white, cylindrical model building above, the sextant would have been placed in the middle of the cylinder.

According to the radius of the sextant the height would have to be so large that it could cause the building to be too tall and could potentially fall. They were able to solve this problem by building half of the sextant underground. This allowed the size of the sextant to be maintained without the height being dangerously tall.

Wikipedia

4. The Registan – the Heart of Samarkand

4.1 What is the Registan?

The Registan, which means “sandy place” or “desert” in Persian, was the heart of ancient Samarkand. Comprised of 3 madrasas (Islamic schools) in a U-shape, the Registan is a public square which served as the center of the Timurid Empire. People gathered in the Registan, not only to hear royal proclamations, but also to witness public executions.

The three madrasas are:

1. Ulugh Beg Madrasa (on the left), built by you know who, between 1417 – 1420;
2. Tilya-Kori Madrasa (in the center), in Persian meaning “guilded” madrasa, built between 1646 – 1660;
3. Sher-Dor Madrasa (on the right), built between 1619 – 1636 along with Tilya-Kori by Yalangtush Bakhodur, ruler of Samarkand.

4.2 Photo journal of the Registan

The rest of the Registan, I will let the photos speak for themselves. Unfortunately, most of this is because I can’t remember which madrasa I took which photo in. I do have a general idea, but I don’t want to accidentally misinform.

Pro tip: Enter every single nook and cranny. The reward for your curiosity? Hidden courtyards, little shops, and of course, stunning Islamic architecture.

Archway, and close up of the tile work

4.3 The Golden Room

The following photos are what I call “the Golden Room.” I don’t remember which madrasa this room is in. However, do not leave the Registan without finding and visiting it!

5. Gur-e-Amir

5.1 History of Gur-e-Amir

Remember Amir Timur from my last post? Gur-e-Amir (or Gur-i-Amir) is the mausoleum of Timur. Gur-e Amir, Persian for “Tomb of the King,” was built between 1403 – 1404. It stands as an important example of Persian-Mongolian Architecture and as a precursor to other famous Mughal tombs – i.e., the Taj Mahal in India and Babur Gardens in Kabul.

Initially built following the sudden death of Timur’s heir apparent (Mohammad Sultan) in 1403, Amir Timur originally had another burial tomb ready for him. However, he too died suddenly in 1405 (while on military campaign in China) and mountain passes blocked by snow prevented him from reaching his burial site. Therefore, he was laid to rest in Gur-e-Amir, as was his grandson, Ulugh Beg. Since then, it became the family crypt of the Timurid Dynasty.

Following the decline of Samarkand in the 1700s, Gur-e-Amir fell into disrepair.

Tamerlane’s [Amir Timur’s] tomb was opened shortly before the German invasion of the Soviet Union, 19 June 1941. Exhumation of Timur in 1941 was made under the direction of Soviet scientist and anthropologist Mikhail Mikhaylovich Gerasimov, who was able to reconstruct Tamerlane’s facial features from his skull, and it was also confirmed that he was 172 cm in height and would have walked with a pronounced limp.

Wikipedia

It wasn’t until after World War II, that restoration on Gur-e-Amir’s exterior began. In the 1970s, interior restoration work began on the interior.

5.2 Exterior of Gur-e-Amir

5.3 Interior of the Mausoleum

Parting Thoughts on Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Hope you enjoyed this brief tour through Samarkand. Did it convince you to visit Samarkand? There are other sites worth visiting, but time and holiday hours prevented me from doing so. Although everything was stunningly beautiful in Samarkand, I enjoyed our next stop, Bukhara, much more. Stay tuned for more photos and stories of my time in Uzbekistan! As always, stay healthy and stay safe!

Heading back to Tashkent? Be sure to check out the Amir Timur Museum!

Travel Insurance when you visit Samarkand

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

Want to visit Samarkand? Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Getting to Tashkent

Living in Afghanistan provides me with potential to travel to some interesting places nearby. And as I always say,

when living in a Stan, travel to a different Stan.

Direct flights between Kabul to Tashkent (Uzbekistan) happen once a week on Kam Air. They are on random days of the week, so you mostly can’t take advantage of it, unless you’re prepared to use annual leave days. Luckily for me, there was a holiday long weekend that happened to align with Kam’s flight days, with minimal leave required.

There are also direct flights to TAS from most major airports: JFK, LHR, DXB, IST.

Upon arriving into Tashkent, I took a taxi to my hotel and dropped off my bags, and set off to meet a friend and colleague. With my headscarf off and a gorgeous spring day to freely walk the streets, I set out for a 2-3 km walk to meet my friend in central Tashkent. M also worked with me in Afghanistan, stationed in a different office. Whereas I took a flight, she took a taxi to the northern border of Afghanistan to Uzbekistan and an overnight train into Tashkent.

2. Who is Amir Timur?

Our first stop was one of Tashkent’s major sites – the Amir Timur Museum. But wait, who exactly is Amir Timur? Before I answer that question, I need to go into a mini-history lesson.

After Uzbekistan declared independence from the USSR in 1991, there was significant emphasis placed on reviving the nation’s cultural heritage. Recognizing and promoting historical figures was part of this revival.

2.1 Founder of the Timurid Empire

Amir Timur, aka Tamurlane, was a warlord and conquerer, and founder of the Timurid Empire (mid 1300s to mid 1500s). The Timurid Empire spanned across much of Central Asia and Iran. It reached as far as Turkey to the west and India and Pakistan to the east. The Timurid Empire had two capital cities: Samarkand (1370 – 1405) which we will visit in another post, and Herat (Afghanistan, 1405 – 1507).

I don’t know how much I believe this, but it’s said that Timur was an undefeated commander in battle. I think that claim may be embellished over time. This lore appears to be fed by his self-promotion as a descendent of Genghis Khan. He was not – but Timur took it upon himself to restore the greatness of the Mongol Empire. Whatever stretches of truth or self-inflated grandeur, he is actually considered a great military strategist and tactician.

In addition to being a warlord and conquerer, Timur also promoted science, education, architecture and the arts. He ushered in, what’s now known as, the Temurid Renaissance.

2.2 Links to modern day Uzbekistan

So, all of this is relevant, leading up to the creation of the Amir Timur Museum. 660 years after the birth of Timur, President Islam Karimov declared 1996 as the “Year of Timur”. And on October 18, 1996, to much fanfare, the Amir Timur Museum opened its doors. President Karimov described Amir Timur Square (the main square in Tashkent) as a ring, and “the Museum is a precious stone decorating it”.

3. The Amir Timur Museum

Before I begin, I wanted to note – there is an entrance fee and a separate fee for taking photographs. Unfortunately, I cannot remember or confirm online how much either of these cost. However, compared to other currencies, the Uzbekistani soʻm is an affordable currency. At present, $1 USD will give you about 10,000 Som. Although I can’t provide you with exact details on the cost, just trust me that you shouldn’t worry too much about it.

Without further ado…

Watch this video on YouTube.

Under the Dome

As you can see, the level of detail is stunning. And the dome is in fact massive! You can see the relative size of the people compared to the height of the ceiling. It’s just absolutely stunning.

There was also a hallway introducing each of the leaders in the Temurids’ Dynasty, with unusual descriptions of them. Just as an example, meet Umarshayh Mirzo. The below is the actual description of his portrait, on the plaque next to him.

Umarshayh Mirzo (1456 – 1494) is the fourth son of Sultan Abusaid Mirzo. Ruler of Fergana in 1462 – 1494. He’s good natured, sincere, brave and educated person. Unexpectedly, he died falling into abyss from his pigeonry.

The museum mostly focuses on the geneaology of Amir Timur and his rise to power.

4. More photos and some parting thoughts

The rest of the post focuses on other things I found interesting in the museum, without much description or comment. As my first look into the history of Uzbekistan, it was really interesting!

The plaque under this image says:

If somebody wants to understand who the Uzbeks are, if somebody wants to comprehend all the power, might, justice and unlimited abilities of the Uzbek people, their contribution to the global development, their belief in the future, he should recall the image of Amir Temur.

President Islam Karimov

Wow. Bold words. And with those words, I bid you adieu. Hope you enjoyed this peak into what can only be described an introduction to the understanding and comprehension of Uzbeks!

Until next time, stay home and stay safe!

Heading to Samarkand? Allow me to introduce you to the Heart of the Ancient World.

Pin it!

Travel Insurance

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Brno is about a 2 hour bus ride from Vienna.  There were options via FlixBus or RegioJet.  Before I tell you about my transportation options, let’s just say that recently, I have been getting into golden hour, sunrise photography.  I decided that wherever I went this weekend, I was going to go really early for that gorgeous golden hour light.  The 3:20 am FlixBus from Vienna International Bus Center arrives in Brno after 5 am. Please note, this day trip CAN BE DONE during normal hours.  I just choose to be insane, that’s all.

1. Arrival to Brno

When I arrived in Brno, it was dark at 5 am and obviously nothing was open.  McDonald’s opened at 6 am. The immediate goals: stay alive and warm for one hour.  So I wandered around the old town, trying to get my bearings straight.  Many drunken clubgoers were fumbling around the streets.  But for the most part, the streets were empty.

2. Sunrise Golden Hour

Fast forward a few hours, I decided never travel for a day trip to catch the sunrise.  In hindsight, it makes no sense.  So remember that for the future.

After taking some shots, I wandered back to the Produce Market where it was bustling and in full swing.  This is definitely something you have to check out on a Saturday morning there!

Now that it was nearing 8 am, it was breakfast time.  I settled on Cafe Placzek and ordered the hearty, winter breakfast.

3. The Mucha Exhibition

From there, it was a little over a mile from the old town area. It gave me a beautiful glimpse into regular Brno life.  With the leaves changing colors and the painted facades of buildings, it was a charming walk.  (You can also take Tram #1 from old town to the Brno Exhibition Center for 20 CZK).

When you arrive at the Brno Exhibition Center, it is a massive open space.  But relatively empty.  The Mucha Exhibition is in a large pavilion towards the back of the exhibition complex.  Just follow the beautiful signs and you’ll get there eventually.

The exhibit comprises of 2 themes – the Slav Epic and the Mucha Posters.  Alfons Mucha, the father of Art Nouveau, earned his fame by designing a series of Sarah Bernhardt posters for her shows. From there, he gained considerable fame both in Europe and the US, mostly with poster work.  It’s amazing that this massive collection of art nouveau posters would be on display in Brno. I’m so grateful to see it, because I absolutely love art nouveau!

Czech tennis player, Ivan Lendl, owns the most complete collection of Mucha posters.  Lendl has been an avid collector for the last few decades and loans his personal collection for the basis of this exhibit.  Prior to the exhibition, Lendl proudly displayed the posters in his Connecticut home. He custom built his home around the sizes of these massive posters.  The posters are absolutely spectacular and vibrant, with some measuring over 10 feet tall!

A US financier supported Mucha’s Slav Epic project.  The project was a series of large panels that he envisioned as promoting a national Slavic identity and national awareness.  The Slav Epic panels are very moving and show this surreal Slavic awakening, with the aide of supernatural, mythical elements.

There were no photographs allowed inside. Therefore, I purchased the exhibit catalog.  The art is absolutely stunning and a MUST for those who love his work.

3.1 The kindness of strangers

After the exhibit, I tried to get my bearings straight before setting off.  I realized that I needed to take a tram to my next destination. But I didn’t have any koruna in change for the tram!  I went back to the exhibit to ask some questions about the tram. 

• Could I buy a ticket on the train?
• Would they accept euros instead of koruna?

The woman recognized me from earlier and told me that I could buy a tram ticket at a yellow box near the tracks.  The ticket cost only 20 koruna, but they didn’t accept euros.  She asked if I needed one or two trips, and I replied two. 

And then she gave me 50 koruna in change! 

Ok, that’s the equivalent of about 2 euros.  But it was so thoughtful! I tried giving her euros, but she wouldn’t accept it. She said it was fine, as she had change to spare. 

HOW KIND!!!!  and unexpected!!  SO THANK YOU, BARBARA FROM THE BRNO EXHIBITION CENTER!!

3.2 Side note about money and day trips

By the way, sometimes with day trips it’s tough.  The ATMs only let me take money out 1000 koruna at a time, which is about $40 USD.  If a tram costs 20 koruna, do I really need 1000?  No.  Which is why I didn’t get money at the ATM.  But also, it’s kind of inconvenient so I feel really bad about taking money from a kind stranger.

4. Jurkovič House, an Art Nouveau House in Brno

Now, having both money and a plan, I headed toward Tram 1, going away from the old town.  Trams operate on the right side, so for my purposes, I crossed the tracks to the other side.  From there, I exited the tram at Brafova, walked through a grassy path, skirted along a forest park, to the Jurkovič House. 

Designed using all art nouveau elements, Jurkovič House is home of Slovak architect, artist, and designer of several World War I cemeteries – Dušan Jurkovič.  From the beautiful peacock entrance, to the wooden accents upstairs, this home is an art nouveau gem.

The Jurkovich House also hosts the Moravian Gallery, an art gallery showcasing local artists’ connection to the house.

5. Stunning autumn

Afterwards, I took an extended stroll through the autumn yumminess that is Brno.

Parting Thoughts

In the end, that was all I really had time for.  But then again, that’s all I really wanted from the day.  I hopped back on the bus at 2:45 PM and arrived in Vienna in time for dinner.

All in all, I’m glad I went.  It was definitely exhausting, but I learned that it’s only practical to take sunrise photos when you’re staying in a place.  Traveling to a place to photograph in the golden hour is silly.

Maybe in the future I won’t come for the sunrise, but art and architechture are definitely something I would return to Brno for! If you also enjoy traveling for art and architecture, consider these trips for your future travel plans!

• a visit to Monet’s iconic house and gardens, Giverny;
• all the best Van Gogh locations in France and the Netherlands;
• or, for the adventurous art fan, head over to the West Bank and visit Banksy’s Hotel – the Walled Off Hotel.

*For fans of Mies van der Rohe

On a side note, for those who have time and are architecture fans – in Brno, there is also the Villa Tugendhat.  It is a Mies van der Rohe icon of modernism, made between 1928 and 1930 for Fritz Tugendhat and his wife.  There are many Mies van der Rohe buildings in Chicago, where I lived for many years.  If I had the time, and maybe if I liked modernism architecture, I would stop by.  Some people agree with Mies van der Rohe’s motto “less is more.”  Those people have obviously never fallen in love with the frills and colors of an Anthropologie catalog.  And with that quip, I’m off.  Enjoy your fall, y’all!

Love it?  Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The story begins with Italian developers in the late 1980s.  The Sheraton Resort was to be the crown jewel of the Cook Islands tourism industry and the island’s first 5-star resort.  With the resort almost 80% complete, construction stopped abruptly following allegations of mafia involvement and money laundering in Italy.  The Cook Islands government was left with $120 million in debt and almost bankrupted.  From talking to local Cook Islanders, this large debt would shape the trend of Cook Islanders immigrating to New Zealand that continues to this day.

From then, other people and companies tried developing and completing the property.  However, something always prevented the completion.  According to the rumor mill, old tribal rivalries led to the land being cursed and recently, re-cursed.  In this day and age, who knows whether curses are really true or not?

Today, the structure stands on a large, open property.  Instead of hotel guests, you’ll find company in a group of cows and goats roaming freely across the land.  Some locals do actually live on the property.  We understand that they struck a deal with the local government to stay there for free, in return for maintaining the lawn and the property.

I went with my tour friends, E and J. When we pulled up in E’s car, a woman greeted us and said it was 5 NZD to visit.  E and J were all about to prepare 5 NZD each, when I stuck out my arm to stop them. I didn’t say a word and handed the woman 5 NZD.  She took the money and then pointed where we could park the car.

E and J were a little stunned, but I later explained that this was not a sanctioned tourist site. It’s not like we are paying an advertised, public admission fee, which taxes on the fees would later be paid back to the Cook Islands government.  No no.  This was a woman, living in an abandoned property, and as part of her agreement to maintain the property, she can charge admission fees for whatever she wants.  I may be simplifying the scenario, but that was how I read it.  So remember, don’t always be so quick to take out your money!

In addition to the abandoned buildings, there is also what looks like a well-groomed BMX track.

Depending on how much you like poking through old, abandoned things, you could probably stay 20-30 minutes here, but probably not more than an hour.  If you’re in the area, and want to see something truly unique to the South Pacific, the Sheraton Cook Islands is for you.  (Incidentally, if you do the cross-island hike from N to S, you should cross through this toward the end…) 

However, if you want your image of Rarotonga to be an untainted, gorgeous paradise, then take a pass on this one.

Background information provided by:  The Guardian Newspaper

Thinkin’ about going?  PIN IT!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

<< for other traveling curiosities, check out the Crossing the Street in Vienna >>

or return to HOME

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m not ashamed to admit that I slept really early that first night in Warsaw.  Which probably led me to wake up even earlier.  But Sundays in Europe… get started late, if at all.  And even the milk bars wouldn’t open until 11 am.  And what time did I wake up?  6 am.  My breakfast choices were either Starbucks (across the street) or at the hotel.  So I chose to eat at the hotel.

Now before the judgments start flying in, bagels originated from the Jewish communities in Poland.  So there.  Still eating local foods!

1. Warsaw Rising (Uprising) Museum

After I packed and checked out, I walked over to the Warsaw Rising (or Uprising) Museum, which is free on Sundays!  This is by far one of the most interesting museums I’ve ever been to.  It collected thousands of artifacts from the Polish Resistance during WWII, had interesting items on exhibit, and shared lots of individual stories of people who fought in the resistance.  I will say it was somewhat of a maze to get through, and I have a suspicion that I didn’t actually see all of it.  (For example, I went around in circles following a sign to get to the observation tower, which I never figured out…)  They also took great care to shield the more graphic photographs and videos from younger audiences, via sections sealed off with a heavy velvet curtains and a warning sign, or something like a well, where adults can look down into it and see some photos (but children are too short to see), etc.

Really awesome museum visit and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to understand Warsaw during WWII.

2. Neon Muzeum

After the Uprising Museum, I took a tram to the artsy neighborhood of Praga, to visit the Neon Muzeum.  Housed in an old warehouse, the Neon Muzeum is dedicated to Soviet-era neon signs, although I’m not really sure why only Soviet / cold war era signs.  But I digress.  It’s a small space, with a good collection.  But not all of the signs were lit up, which was kind of disappointing.

Here are some of my favorites.

3. Old Town Warsaw

From the Neon Muzeum, I finally went into Old Town.  And it was as quaint and colorful as I wanted it to be.  I keep mentioning in my Instagram posts that the Old Town Warsaw was completely destroyed in WWII.  But just as a gentle reminder, they rebuilt everything as it was before the war.  That’s no small feat.

While walking around Old Town, I finally managed to find Zapiecek, AND IT WAS OPEN.  (recall from my previous Warsaw post that I passed by 2 stores only to have one with a line out the door and the other closed for a few weeks).  So I ordered the Pierogie Tasting Menu… and winter tea (tea with ginger and oranges, and so delicious).

It was so amazing as my last Polish meal, and the best way to top off a cold but adventurous weekend!  From there, it was a 45 minute brisk walk, with the Hamilton soundtrack blasting in my ears, and me singing along, roaming the streets of Warsaw.  And then back to the hotel and off to the airport!

If you didn’t catch the beginning of my 36 hour trip to Warsaw, read about it here!

Day 2 Recap*:

• 6 AM: breakfast and laziness at Warsaw Marriott | map
• 10 AM: a dose of history at the Warsaw Rising Museum | map
• 12 PM: bright lights at the Neon Muzeum | map
• 1:30 PM: Old Town and lunch at Zapiecek | map
• 3 PM: Long walk back to the Warsaw Marriott
• 4:30 PM: Leave for Chopin Airport! (using Uber, from the Marriott, was 28 zlotys | $8 USD)

*To view Day 2’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 1 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Overnight train to Warsaw

The night train from Vienna Hauptbanhof leaves around 10:15 pm and arrives in Warsaw Central around 9:15 am.  I paid ~ 130 EUR for a single berth compartment, with a washbasin.  It’s the same compartment as the 3-berth, but the two other bunks were up against the wall.  Here is a short video of inside of the tiny compartment.  (Yes, I am wearing hello kitty shorts, seen in the reflection of the window. The temperature when I first boarded the train blasted heat on high and I could not handle it.)

Watch this video on YouTube.

The compartment was clean and the ride was relatively smooth.  It took awhile to figure out the main light switch and temperature adjustment switch. All of them are above the door, which required me to stand on top of my bed to reach.  When we reached Krakow around 6 am, there was a mild annoyance. The attendant woke Krakow passengers up around 5 am, which caused a lot of commotion and various noises.  But like I said, only a mild complaint.  In the morning, before we arrived in Warsaw, they served breakfast – hot coffee and an unexciting piece of bread with cheese and jam.

1. Arrival to Warsaw!

The first thing you see when you leave the Warsaw Central station is this magnificent beauty. Even though I arrived in the morning, the photo was taken at night (obviously).

This beloved giant was a “gift” from Stalin to the people of Warsaw. The Palace of Culture and Science (or PKiN for short) was built in the 1950s and designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev in the style of socialist realism.  An imposing building that stands out in the Warsaw skyline, it’s still relatively controversial among the locals who see it as a reminder of Soviet influence.

But I digress.  I went across the street from the central station to the Warsaw Marriott hotel (8,000 Chase points transferred to Marriott).  My room wasn’t ready yet, but that’s fine.  I was ready for some pierogies.  I knew exactly where I was going to go. 

2. Bar Bambino for pierogies

Bar Bambino, a traditional Polish “milk bar” or bar mleczny in Polish.  Retro’ish milk bars have popped up in Warsaw as a throwback to the Soviet days, when food was scarce and state-run restaurants served cheap eats.

I looked at the menu online on the train and google translated a few items.  But I was unprepared for the FULL BOARD of menu items.  Milk bars typically don’t have English menus or English speakers.  What to do? I stood at the board staring mindlessly at all the choices.  I let a few people go in front of me, while I watched how they ordered, took their receipt up to the window and handed it to the kitchen women as they waited for their food.  And then, when finished, took their plate up to the other window for dishwashing.

When I finally felt confident enough to order, I basically walked the woman behind the cashier up to the board and pointed to the first item under the pierogi category.  You really can’t go wrong with choosing the first item.  It was 7.80 zlotys, which is about $2.30 USD.  Surprise pierogi for breakfast! For those who don’t know, pierogies are dumplings, usually comprised of potato, cheese, and/or onion, and are typically boiled.

It was mushroom filled!  and a great choice!  What was so surprising was the huge slab of butter that appeared on my pierogies, and had melted by the time I brought the plate to my table.  Well, if this is how locals do it, I might as well embrace the butter.  Remember this phrase, which could be a motto for life in Europe… ✨✨EMBRACE THE BUTTER✨✨.

3. Chopin Museum

From Bar Bambino, I walked on toward the Frederic (Fryderyk) Chopin Museum.  The museum, housed in an old mansion, which like much of Warsaw, was destroyed in WWII and then rebuilt to exact specifications after the war.

Chopin is the favored son of Warsaw, and the namesake of the Warsaw International Airport in town.  Although he died in Paris, he wanted his heart sent back to Warsaw. And so it was… in a jar of cognac…  Still interred in the same jar, his heart now resides at the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw.  I don’t know if you can see the jar or the heart but there you have it.  It’s there.

The Chopin Museum is fairly well done.  It relies a lot on technology – the entrance ticket is a card. Most exhibit items required you to scan the card to hear his music, or to hear about his life, etc.  It was a little unnecessary at best.  A button “activating” the exhibit would have sufficed.  But nonetheless, it was a nice museum dedicated to his life and music.

4. Desserts at Odette

After the museum, I was hungry.  Does that happen to anyone else?  I mean, also, the butter periogies were probably still digesting.  But I know I had to try some of the desserts that Warsaw is famous for.  {So the choice that did NOT win, was a chocolate lounge…}  The winner was Odette, a decadent patisserie, hidden a few side streets away from the Royal Route.

I obviously did not know what dessert corresponded to what flavor, but I figured a brown one could never go wrong.  Flavors could have included chocolate, coffee, hazelnut, etc.  And yet, the dessert I chose had none of those flavors.

With each bite, I really tried hard to think of what flavors were in this dessert.  And to be honest, I literally COULD NOT figure it out.  So blast me if you will, I tried really hard to identify it.  What it was not: chocolate, coffee, or hazelnut flavored.

5. The hunt for traditional Polish food

After dessert, I went back to the hotel to check in and take a little nap.  By 3:30 pm, I decided it was time for a late lunch and I set out looking for a specific, traditional Polish restaurant that had multiple locations around town.  I passed one of the locations, which had a huge line out the door, and decided to move on toward the second location.  The second location was closed until February 13th.  So I walked on to the third location, in the heart of Old Town.  But I was met with a police blockade of the whole Old Town area.  (I later heard that if there is any kind of political event, they just shut down Old Town.)  I couldn’t go around, and the police told us everything was shut down so we should turn around.

By this point, I WAS STARVING.  As I walked back, I decided to just eat in any Polish restaurant I came across, determined to stick with my theme of eating only Polish food.  I came across Ceprownia, which had a sign for a Potato Pancake Festival in the doorway.  That’s good enough for me.

By the time I finished dinner, it was around 5 pm.  All of the museums were closed and I would be unable to attend my evening plan, a Chopin concert in Old Town, so I went back to the hotel and was lazy for the rest of the night.  No judgment… part of vacation is relaxing!  Stay tuned for the conclusion of my weekend in Poland.

6. Photos along the way

But first, here are some random scenes from Warsaw.

Day 1 Recap*

• 9:30 AM: arrival to Warsaw Central Station | map
• 10:15 AM: Pierogies at the Bar Bambino milk bar | map
• 11 AM: mixing technology and music at the Chopin Museum | map
• 12:30 PM: morning desserts at Odette | map
• << nap time >>
• 4 PM: early dinner at Ceprownia | map
• finished for the day, since Old Town was closed off…

*To view Day 1’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 2 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

Onwards to Episode 2 of 36 Hours in Warsaw!

Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Traffic lights & Icelandic economy

So, as promised, the story of the heart-shaped traffic lights in Akureyri.

The economic crisis of 2008 in Iceland hit the country hard and many people had lost almost everything they had.  (I remember when it happened, I was watching the news in my $6 guesthouse in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.)  Iceland’s economy was devastated and a lot of the people lost all hope of surviving this ordeal. 

One artist in Akureyri decided to cut some cardboard and make one red light in the town into a heart, to give hope to the townspeople.  To remind them to smile through the bad times, and that things would work itself out eventually.  The mayor of Akureyri liked the idea so much, every red light in town was then transformed into a heart.  And it stuck.  The way Disa, the host of my horsebackriding tour, explained it, the heart reminds people to smile with their heart, and that good things always come from bad things

Following the economic crisis, Iceland invested heavily in their tourism industry, which I would say greatly paid off.  So tourism is that good thing that came from the economic crisis.

2. A stroll around Akureyri

Anyway, back to Akureyri.  It’s a lovely little. town, with street art that fills the walls of buildings and alleyways.  (Originally this started as all graffiti does, illegally…but Akureyri decided to embrace this.)  Now, there is several prominent art that is featured by local artists, which rotate every few months.

Visit Akureyri for its Street Art

There is also an art museum in Akureyri, but that last day when I planned to go, I decided to bolt instead, because the temperatures dropped dramatically… (and it’s tough to force yourself to be outside for the full duration of the day, after you’ve checked out of your hotel/guesthouse… so that was skipped…)

You all have heard me gushing about this town, so here are some photos to show you just how great it is.

Also, there is a main church in town, Akureyrarkirkja, but shame on me, I never took a good photo of it. I was just so obsessed with the rest of the town, I guess.

3. Visit Akureyri for its Food

Besides the restaurants I tried on the food tour, the others I tried were really good as well.

Akureyri Fish & Chips

Cafe Berlin 

Kristjans Bakari

Parting Thoughts on Akureyri

So I realize with my several posts on this lovely town that I’ve now put it on the map. Try not to all rush there at once but if you do, you’re guaranteed to have a swell time. Visit Akureyri and you won’t regret it! If you’re into small towns anyway. And with that, I bid you good night from Vienna!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/