And while I wouldn’t call this a Madrid Food Guide per say, it definitely goes beyond the normal food experiences and highlights some of the extremely cool places to eat in Madrid. So, without further ado, here are some exquisite Madrid food experiences!

1. The Oldest Restaurant in the World – Sobrino de Botín

Let’s start at the oldest restaurant it the world, shall we? It would be rude not to.

Located near Plaza Mayor, Sobrino de Botín is the longest continuously run restaurant in the world (and Guinness World Records holder for oldest restaurant).  Opened in 1725, Restaurante Botin stayed in the Botin family until 1930, when the González family took over. The original González family endured hard times during the Spanish Civil War, narrowly evading a terrible fate, but they managed to stay open and continue roasting its most famous dish. Over the last 300 years, Botin has only been owned by the Botin and Gonzalez families, which is truly incredible if you think about it! 

Botin is known for their roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado).  The suckling pigs need to be at a minimum weight of 4 kg (8.8 lbs) or be at least 19 days old before it is roasted to perfection. The roast takes only about 2 hours in the same open door 300-year-old wood-fired oven (with the tile hood in the photo) that Botin has used since it opened its doors on day 1 in 1725.

Holm oak firewood is used in the oven for roasting. The acorns of holm oak trees are fed to the pigs which produce Jamón ibérico (Iberian, or Iberico ham). The circle of life of acorn, oak and pigs.

Throughout the last 300 years, Botin has had its fair share of celebrities and admirers. But no one more beloved by Botoin than American-writer and war journalist, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway dined there often and even had his own table at Botin – the most unassuming spot in the whole restaurant. Tucked away in a corner, Hemingway was said to be paranoid about being under enemy surveillance and preferred the unassuming corner. I guess I always thought of Hemingway’s would have been more outspoken, or rambunctious, rather than preferring to be sitting quietly in the corner. But what do I know?

Hemingway loved Botin so much, it features in two of his books: Death in the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises (one of my favorite books!)

In the last scene of the novel:

“We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.“

– Final scene, The Sun Also Rises.

For those super foodies, you can sign up for a 45-minute tour of the restaurant before lunch or dinner that includes a 7-course tasting menu. Guess who did that?

The tour I took (yellow) includes every floor of the building, from the crypt and wine cellar dating back to the 1500s, up to the top floor, a former boarding house. Rumor has it that Spanish artist, Francisco Goya, worked at Botin in the late 1700s as a dishwasher then waiter.

After the tour, I settled in with a couple for the 7-course family style tasting menu. This was fantastic, as we got to try a spread of their most famous dishes! We could also select whether we wanted the famous suckling pig or an equally famous roast lamb. Not surprisingly, we all opted for the suckling pig.

My 7-course family style dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world:

• Cured Manchego cheese
• Iberian ham (jamon iberico) & chicken croquettes
• Roasted red peppers with tuna belly
• House scrambled eggs with morcilla blood sausage & potato
• Segovian mushrooms with ham
• Suckling pig (or roasted lamb)
• Dessert – homemade caramel flan for me!

Oh my goodness, what an incredible meal! So many things stood out – the roasted red peppers with tuna belly was phenomenal. The tuna belly was so incredibly tender, and it went wonderfully with the soft texture of the roasted red peppers. The scrambled eggs with blood sausage and potatoes were simple, but delicious. (but then again, I’m not one to shy away from a blood sausage!). The Segovian mushrooms with ham was an unexpected delight. I’m not sure what Segovian mushrooms are, but they reminded me of a fresh and juicy shiitake mushroom. Loved the flavor mixed with the ham!

And then of course, the star of the show, the suckling pig. We didn’t have a whole suckling pig for ourselves, but we all got a more than generous portion. The skin was so light and crispy, not like the thicker pork belly skin you may be used to. The meat, beyond tender and flavorful! And for dessert, I closed with a homemade caramel custard flan. Jiggly, sweet – perfection!

Botin is absolutely one of the most unique restaurants Madrid, and a must if you are hunting gourmet experiences in Madrid!

2. Oldest Chocolateria in Madrid – Chocolatería San Ginés

Visit the oldest chocolatería in Madrid for a quintessentially normal breakfast snack!  (is that elevenses?) Ok, I wouldn’t consider this breakfast, but it seems that locals do!  Deliciously hot and fried churros and served with a Spanish hot chocolate. If you don’t know what a churro, think of a fried donut, except thin and elongated in shape!

Chocolateria San Gines has been making their churros and chocolate combo at the same location since 1894! Nowadays, Chocolateria San Gines basically owns the whole corner, with different indoor/outdoor seating locations, and an ice cream takeaway window. You can still enjoy your churros and chocolate in the original building, which dates back to 1890, but be prepared to queue up for that! For me, it was a lovely morning, so I opted for outdoor seating.

Churros and chocolate is the normal order (in Spanish: chocolate con 6 churros o 2 porras) and that sets you back 5.50 EUR. For 1 person, I didn’t finish it all. For 2 people, it’s probably perfect! Don’t forget to try dipping your churro in your hot chocolate!

Added benefit – Chocolateria San Gines is open 24-7 / 365 days a year! Since it’s open literally 24-7, you really have no excuse on visiting the oldest chocolateria in Madrid, do you?

3. World’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao

Honestly, who doesn’t love a dinner and a show? This gourmet experience at Corral de la Moreria takes dinner and a show to the next level, pairing a one-Michelin star awarded restaurant with an award-winning Flamenco show.

Photography is only allowed during the first 5 minutes of the show, and although my view for the show was fine, the photos/videos did not turn out. The photos of the show were provided by Corral de la Moreria with permission. Muchas gracias.

What is a tablao?

• A tablao is a place where flamenco shows are performed
• A tablao is also the term used for the platform floor in which a flamenco dancer dances.

– Wikipedia: Tablao

The show costs 47.95 EUR, and there are a number of different tasting menus to select from.  If you have specific food allergies or preferences, don’t worry – Corral de la Moreria offers gluten free and vegan tasting menu options, as well!

• If you want to book a dinner and a show, note that you’ll first pay 47.95 EUR for the show booking, and then after the show, you’ll pay for your meal.
• There is also a show + a drink option, for 49.95 EUR, which includes both.
• It’s a bit confusing, but there is also the option to dine without the show, but that is in the Restaurante Corral de le Moreria, which hosts 4 exclusive tables for dinner. The dinner and show are held at Restaurant Tablao (where the Flamenco stage is). I think it’s the same location, but in separate areas. I couldn’t figure out how to book this option on the booking website, just as an FYI!

Since I am an early bird, I went with the 19:30 pm show, with an 18:30 dinner seating. For the menu, I selected the 5-course tasting menu for 79.95 EUR. The meal is paid separately after the show.

• Cream of Glazed Chestnuts, Marrow of Vegetables, Duck and Chinese Artichokes
• Scallop Carpaccio with Tomato Tartare, Dates and Cold Garlic and Almond Soup with Coconut Milk
• Wild Sea Bass with Creamy Stewed Spring Onions and Smoked Iberian Bacon, accompanied by Grapefruit Emulsion and Fried Capers
• Roast Rack of Lamb Rested in its Caramelised Gravy and a Creamy Ragout of Winter Vegetables
• Caramelised French Toast Made With Fresh Milk and Served with Banana Ice Cream

What a truly wonderful evening at Corral de la Moreria! Each course was delicious with interesting flavor combinations, but not one course stood out as absolutely incredible. For me, the sea bass was probably my favorite, as it was expertly cooked to perfection with a light and crispy skin.

Following the meal, the lights dimmed and we were treated to an incredible flamenco show. If you’ve never watched a flamenco show, there would be one word I would use to describe the performers – powerful. Both the male and female performers were so intense and had a great command of their movement and the accompanying songs. The guitarists and singers accompanying the performers were also integral parts of the magic.

Because of the show, the majority of people who choose the dinner and show option are tourists. Let that guide you as to what type of experience you will be having at Corral de la Moreria. Is it off the beaten path and a hidden gem? No. Many travelers flock to Corral de la Moreria for this flamenco dining experience and it is definitely one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid.

That didn’t hinder my experience, but if you’re one of those Michelin-star hunters, it’s definitely not like any other Michelin-starred restaurants! As the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao, Corral de la Moreria is definitely a one-of-a-kind Michelin-starred dining experience!

– My Experience at RavioXO –

Before I move onto the last exquisite foodie experience in Madrid, I need to set up the story which brought me there.

For those who didn’t follow my social media stories about being snubbed as a solo diner, a little context. I made reservations for famed Madrid-chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO restaurant several weeks before my trip. Chef David has a number of restaurants in Madrid which have multiple Michelin stars and often ranks at the very top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Some might say that he’s arguably, Madrid’s hottest chef.

To set the stage, 9 out of 10 meals, due to circumstances of life and travel, I often dine alone. I am fine with this and aside from a handful of annoying experiences, it’s generally not a big deal.

I made reservations online, and although they did not have the option for 1 person, that often happens due to the booking system. Normally, I just email the restaurant afterward and tell them it’s just me. I did just this. Emailed, not once, not twice, but actually three times before someone actually acknowledged me, the day before my lunch.

In that first acknowledgement, they told me to email my reservation modifications to reservas@ravioxo.com. That was the exact email address that I had sent all 3 emails to. Eye roll, but fine. I’ll try again.

RavioXO had a cancellation fee, and I was afraid I’d be charged the cancellation fee for the 2nd person, who was not going to join me. After a brief “misunderstanding,” I was told that the reservation system doesn’t allow tables of 1 person,

“because in our restaurant we do not make reservations for one person. Our availability is only for tables of 2 people or more. In case you finally cannot find a person to accompany you, we could cancel the reservation and we will not charge you any cancellation fee.”

What’s actually wild is, RavioXO has bar seating available in the restaurant, so they could have just sat me at the bar or in a sad corner hidden away from humans. Really anything. But no, Chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO denied me the chance to eat there.

Many people on the internet have tried to suggest to me that solo diners cause a “restaurant to lose money.” To that, I say… have you ever seen me eat?

Had they allowed me to dine that day, quite possibly because I felt bad over the hassle, I would have definitely overcompensated and treated myself by ordering more. A wine or two at lunch, starters, desserts – who knows? The sky could’ve been the limit. If only they served solo diners.

Dear Chef Muñoz and the team at RavioXO,
Being a solo traveler (and a woman at that) is hard enough as it is. People stare at me and harass me all the time simply because I’m a woman alone. And your restaurant? Doesn’t even allow me to eat. I simply can’t fathom why I wouldn’t even be allowed to take one seat at the bar. If you would like to have a honest and frank conversation about how your “more than 2 people only” policy is not inclusive, I would be happy to engage in a discussion offline with you about that.

4. Best hidden gem in Madrid – Restaurante Barrera

After being snubbed for being a solo diner at one of Madrid’s hottest restaurants, I was left scrambling to find an alternative.  Granted, Madrid is full of excellent restaurants, but how do you choose from 100 fantastic ones?  Following the snub, I really just wanted a homey, off-the-beaten path, cozy restaurant – something that would embrace me with Spanish warmth and hospitality. So, who did I turn to in that instance? None other than Phil Rosenthal, who you may know from Somebody Feed Phil.

Restaurante Barrera is a restaurant with no website, no social media, and no written menu. There are barely any reviews online either. Don’t let that deter you, it’s probably one of the best food experiences in Madrid you could hope for!

When I walked into the Calle Ponzano tapas bar and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what to expect. In all honesty, I didn’t watch Phil’s episode (didn’t want to ruin the surprise) and I was still feeling a little shy from my rejection the day before. Ana Barrera, proprietress, greeted me as I walked in.

Ana and I exchanged some pleasantries, when she asked me about dining alone. I said that sometimes I want to travel and eat nice things, but if no one can accompany me, I choose to go alone. She expressed that she could never have done that back in her day, and that she thought I was very full of “valor” to do so. At least that’s what I could pick up from my poor-Spanish and her (much better) English. I don’t know that anyone has ever referred to me as brave for continuing on in my solo experiences in life, but I appreciated it both in the moment and after.

Without further ado, and without a menu, Ana began listing off the tapas I could choose from.

• amuse bouche – egg salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds
• light and crisp gazpacho soup, with micro greens (not shown)
• crispy fried artichokes tossed in sea salt
• the cabrito (baby goat)
• an exquisite lemon tart for dessert

If I had more of a stomach, I would have tried their famous crispy pork belly with (mashed) potato, but I think I had a wonderful variety with the above! Despite being tapas, these are definitely not small plates! But they are meant to be shared. With a second diner, you should definitely get all of the above and the crispy pork belly and potatoes! My whole meal cost 58 EUR which was a steal for the quality of the meal I had!

Notable standouts for the meal:

• the texture of the pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds with the egg salad amuse bouche was an incredible addition to add variety in the egg salad texture. And marcona almonds are always light and crunchy and especially delicious.
• THE FRIED ARTICHOKES. OMG. Expertly fried with gorgeous sea salt flakes. The sweet aubergine (eggplant) glaze was a nice contrast, but I’m not a hugely saucey person, so the artichokes were still perfect without
• The cabrito (baby goat) – I didn’t quite expect the cut to look like that, but then again, I really didn’t know what to expect. The flavor was rich and velvety almost, and wonderfully tender. It seemed to be prepared very simply, roasted in a wood-fired oven for hours in its own juices. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best way.
• the lemon tart was also a stand out. Calling it a lemon tart really doesn’t do it justice. The outer shell was a hard meringue, with a creamy and still warm, lemon cream/custard oozing out, covering a hidden lemon ice cream on the inside. So many different textures and temperatures, all coming together with a tart, lemony flavor. EXQUISITE in every way!

I wish I could tell you more about Ana and the restaurant, but communication was uneven and internet research for this truly off-the-beaten-path restaurant is scant. After the meal, I did watch Phil’s episode there (Season 5, Episode 5). His chef pal, Javier Bonet, explained “it’s a way – how you eat the food, sharing it with somebody. This is the concept of tapas.”

Well, despite tapas meant for being a shared experience, Ana and Restaurante Barrera made my lunch-for-1 incredibly special and memorable. Out of all the gourmet experiences in Madrid on this trip, Restaurante Barrera was the one that stood out the most.

So, thank you Ana for the wonderful meal, and I will be back for the pork belly and potatoes soon!

Parting thoughts on my gourmet experiences in Madrid

I was a little surprised at how many unique and incredible culinary experiences Madrid had to offer! Yes, Spain is known as a foodie heaven, but I hadn’t actually heard anything specific about Madrid. I mean, to be fair, I’ve never had such a wide variety of experiences in the time span of a few days! It made Madrid just an incredibly delicious trip.

There were so many once in a lifetime food experiences wrapped up in this one short trip. Dining at the world’s oldest restaurant and tasting the suckling pig that’s been roasted in the same way, in the same oven as it was 300 years ago was so special! and not to mention delicious! The churros and chocolate were a surprise breakfast that I didn’t expect, and I wouldn’t eat such a sugar-heavy breakfast in the future, but hey – when in Madrid, do as the Madrileans would have done since 1894! But light and expertly fried (and who doesn’t love to dip a churro), and given that they are open 24-7, there’s no excuse not to swing by and try it!

The Corral de la Moreria flamenco and Michelin-starred dinner experience is definitely for those first timers to Spain, or for people who have never experienced the excitement of Flamenco! Normally at venues where a lot of tourists flock, the food is nothing to write home about. But with this flamenco tablao, food is just as important as the flamenco. Experience a truly unforgettable evening at the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao!

And to round out all the experiences, a wonderful meal at Restaurante Barrera. After being sad and rejected by the hottest restaurant in town, this unassuming tapas bar and restaurant swooped in and saved the day. With simple by powerful dishes and Ana’s soft smile and gentleness, this is by far the stand out of my trip. For a restaurant with no menu, no website, and a written receipt at the end, this was truly the best food in Madrid.

The list above are probably the most outstanding culinary and gourmet experiences in Madrid. If you are looking to supplement this list with the basics on what to eat in Madrid, first start with the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour of Madrid, and then why not consider:

For this trip, I stayed at the Thomson Madrid – a newly opened 5-star hotel located between the Grand Via and Puerta del Sol. While it was a lovely stay, there was a lot of construction around the property. But it had a phenomenal location and I walked everywhere during my trip from there! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.

For other nice hotels centrally located near Grand Via, consider:

• Hyatt Centric Gran Via Madrid
• Hotel Montera Madrid, Curio Collection By Hilton
• JW Marriott Hotel Madrid

If you’re looking for other unexpected foodie adventures outside of Madrid, how about these places for some food for thought:

• Cheltenham – a Regency town in England with an unexpected food culture;
• Shetland Islands – a place where food stories warm your heart and soul!

And that’s it for today folks! Until next time, stay healthy and safe!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This post will be the first in a series, highlighting the events that I attended with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, during food and whisky pairing month.  There’s still a few events left in August, so hurry and sign up for them!  Most of the food and whisky pairing events are for both members and non-members alike (probably to reel in and delight those non-members!)  For those sad folks that can’t manage, don’t worry – there are delectable food options in the SMWS Member Rooms at all times, and your SMWS Ambassador will help you make a delicious pairing with their current outturn offerings. 

My attendance at these events were graciously gifted to me by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, of which I am an affiliate.  That means, should you choose to sign up for a SMWS membership following this post, I will receive a small commission for that referral.  All opinions and delights in this post are my own and are not influenced by the gifted tastings.  Thank you, SMWS as always!

The first food and whisky pairing event I attended was hosted at SMWS Queen Street in Edinburgh.  Executive Head Chef James Freeman created an exquisite 6 course tasting menu, with each course paired with a SMWS whisky to enhance the whisky experience.  Most people I’ve spoken to consider whisky an after-dinner drink, often considering whisky during dinner to be too heavy.  While I wouldn’t suggest it for every night of the week, on certain special occasions, it can be just the thing.

Your typical food and whiskey pairings are charcuterie platters (meats and cheeses go nicely with heavy, rich whiskies) and chocolates or desserts, where the sweet flavors enhance the soft sweetness in the whiskies. But this? One whisky per meal course? Unheard of, and so decadent!

Before I begin on that evening’s frivolities, allow me to express my great thanks to:

• Logan, our delightful host for the evening,
• Our dinner companions, who added light-hearted laughter and color to the dinner;
• And my friend, Jenny, who joined as my plus one.

Without further ado:

The SMWS Food and Whisky Pairing Tasting Menu

The evening started out with some bread to pad the stomach of the many whiskies to come.  The bread, thematically sitting on barley grains, came with two types of butter – tomato and wild garlic and fennel herb.  When it came out, my friend said “I know which butter you’re going for.”  And it’s true.  Tell me something has garlic in it, and I’m all over it!  If a recipe calls for 1 clove, you gotta put in at least 4.  Anyway, I digress.  Don’t get too excited with the delicious bread and butter, because the first course is coming.

1st course: Torched Mackerel & a Highland

Torched Mackerel with purple potato, apple, compressed cucumber, horseradish buttermilk and dill

Contrapuntal Complementarities – 52.39 (Old Pulteney), a Highland whisky – aged 7 years, at 57.9% ABV

According to Logan, the mackerel had a “bitterness to it”, where the sweet and citrus of the whisky helped to balance out that flavor.

2nd course: Tomato & burrata, with a Speyside

Isle of Wight tomato with basil emulsion, burrata, baby courgettes and wild garlic

A bee swarm on holiday – 36.165 (Benrinnes), a Speyside whisky – aged 12 years, 57.7% ABV

Fruity, vanilla, warm with cloves – a perfect pairing with the light, freshness of a tomato basil salad. The tanginess of the tomato brought out the sweet notes of the whisky.

3rd course: Salmon & a 17 year Speyside

Roast fillet of Loch Duart Salmon, lobster and summer vegetable bisque with a lemon and caper relish

Fruits of the Florist – 7.232 (Longmorn), a Speyside whisky – aged 7 years, 59.1% ABV

By unanimous decision, everyone’s favorite whisky of the evening. A little spice, custard and creme brulee. According to logan, when paired with the salmon and capers, “brings out a weirdness in the whisky.” I dunno about “the weirdness”, but it was definitely everyone’s favorite.

4th course: Quail & a smoky Speyside

Roast quail with bargoule mousse, buckwheat emulsion, crispy potato gratin, chanterelle mushrooms and a redcurrant sauce

Pleasing Sweetness, Playful Heat 64.111 (Mannochmore), a Speyside whisky – aged 8 years, 55.5% ABV

To quote one of the dinner guests, “It doesn’t taste as bad as some of the peaty ones I’ve had!” Now, if that’s not a seal of approval, I don’t know what is.

5th course: Strawberries & autumn in the Highlands

Strawberry meringue with roasted strawberry sorbet, elderflower crème fraiche and strawberry salad

When autumn leaves start to fall – Society Cask (Dalmore), a Highland whisky, aged 13 years, 58% ABV

A second fill sherry cask, and then finished in a first fill bourbon cask for 1 year – what can I say? I love a sherry cask, and its sweetness always goes with a delectable dessert. The strawberry-centric dessert was light and refreshing, perfect for a summer evening!

6th course: Decadent chocolate cheesecake & a Highland whisky

Brillat Savarin & caramel chocolate cheesecake with a dark chocolate glaze, served with vanilla ice-cream.

Raisin cane – 55.4 (Loch Lomond -Inchmurrin), a Highland whisky, aged 19 years, 55.4% ABV

I think I was too many whiskies in to appreciate the last pairing. The whisky had wood characteristics (kind of like furniture polish), with a hint of sweetness and cloves. But that dessert!! I’m a chocolate fan, so everything about this spoke to me!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS Food and Whisky Tasting Menu

Coming into this evening, I wasn’t sure how it would pan out. A six course tasting menu – did that mean there were six whiskies too? (Why yes, it does!!) The Scotch Malt Whisky Society obviously delivers on the whisky front. There’s no question about that. But could it deliver on the food front? 100% YES. The quality of the food was phenomenal and absolutely delicious. The plating was stunning, too. As one of the dinner guests said with confidence, “I’ve never had a bad meal here.”

Now, about having one whisky per course… to be fair, you don’t have to do whisky pairings. One of the ladies in our group was not a whisky fan, so she chose to have wine pairings with it. But beware – if we have six whiskies, that means she had six wines!

What I’ve learned so far about food and whisky tastings. I’m not sure the whisky enhances the food. On the contrary though, the food definitely enhances the whisky. Sometimes on a first sip, the whisky can taste sharp – rough around the edges, if you will. By taking a bite of food in between sips of whisky, the whisky smooths out. Some of the more subtle flavors make an appearance and become bolder.

The cost of the dinner was 89£ per person, which doesn’t come cheap for a dinner. However, that was a 6 course meal with 6 whisky pairings. When you add it up like that, the food and whiskey pairings definitely become worth it! Not every night needs to have a decadent meal. But for that special night out, whisky fans, consider having a food and whisky pairing at Scotch Malt Whisky Society! The food I’ve tasted so far is exquisite, and the whisky – well, that goes without saying – phenomenal!

Jokingly, a dinner guest said, “The world could end tomorrow – this could be your last meal.” And while a little on the grim side, the better way to think of that is, carpe diem! Seize the day! Sometimes you just need to treat yourself to something exquisite, and that’s perfectly ok!

Thank you to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for gifting me this incredible food and whisky pairing for 2! Remember, there’s at least 2 more events I’m writing about from different Member Room locations around the UK. So stay tuned for the rest of food and whisky pairing month from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

To learn more about Scotch Malt Whisky Society, check out my other posts:

• the exclusive benefits of SMWS membership
• a society cask tasting at the Glasgow Member Room
• an outdoor tasting adventure on the Three Distilleries Path.

Travelling from London or England? Come up to Edinburgh or Glasgow on an overnight sleeper train from London Euston. Arrive refreshed in the morning and all and ready for a whisky adventure!

Until then, take care, stay safe, and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

To introduce you to my beloved island off of the west coast of Scotland, located in the Inner Hebrides, Islay is one of Scotland’s famous whisky distilling regions. The other whisky regions being: Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside and Campbeltown. (Sometimes “the Islands”, i.e. Skye, Jura, Arran, Orkney, Mull, are also a separate whisky region, but not technically according to regulation…) Each whisky region has its own set of unique characteristics that impact the taste and flavors of the whisky.

Before I get into the meat of the article, which extends beyond Islay whisky, let me lay some groundwork on Scotch Whisky. I’ll then pay some homage to Islay whisky and its culture of peaty whiskies.

1. Scotch Whisky

Well, first of all, Scotch Whisky is protected by law – set forth by the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulation. To be designated as a whisky from Scotland, or a Scotch, it must adhere to the following requirements:

• Made in Scotland from only cereals, water and yeast
• Matured for a minimum of 3 years in oak casks
• Bottled at a minimum strength of 40% abv
• Distilled below 94.8% abv so that it retains the flavour and aroma derived from its raw materials
• No flavouring or sweetening is permitted

– From the Scotch Whisky Association

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, to be defined as a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, “the whisky must be distilled at a single distillery from water and malted barley without the addition of any other cereals, and by batch distillation in copper pot stills. Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be bottled in Scotland.”

2. What makes Islay whisky special?

2.1 Peaty Islay Whisky? Blame it on the weather!

Allow me to clarify that I am not an expert in whisky, Islay, or Islay whisky. Obviously, there are better sources out there. I’ll share what I know and what I’ve found out. So, grab your wellies and rain coat, much of the peaty history of Islay whisky is owed to the island’s climate.

Islay is so wet the island never really dries. Throughout the year, like much of Scotland, the abundant grasses, mosses and shrubs live and die in perpetual bog. Over centuries, the resultant decaying matter creates a dense black substance. (*Lannie clarification – this is peat.)

But on Islay, seaweed and the wind-blown sea salt give the peat unique characteristics. Once cut and dried on firmer ground, the peat can then be burnt in a manner similar to coal.

Peat, bog and world-class whisky – why Islay remains the jewel in Scotland’s single-malt crown

Say what? Peat is decayed vegetation? Well sure, why not. Is that weird? I mean, weird things are kinda the best. Above is a picture of peat, that have been hand cut into squares. I imagined peat to be dense and heavy, but it’s surprisingly light. And it doesn’t smell “peaty.” I guess that only comes when you burn it.

Why would I want to visit if there’s decayed vegetation in their whiskies? Keep reading to find out!

2.2 Peat and Smokiness

If you were to break down the steps of producing a single-malt whisky, it’d be:

1. Malting the barley
2. Fermentation
3. Distillation
4. Filling the casks
5. Maturation in the casks
6. Bottling

Peat is “inserted” into the barley grains in the malting process, when you dry the damp malt over peat-heated fire. The level of smokiness depends on how long the malt is dried over peat-heated fire. The process of drying the malt over fire usually takes about 30 hours. Laphroaig, as a prime example of Islay whisky, uses peat in about 17 of the 30 hours, which gives it a rich peatiness, or what they call ‘peat reek’.

So now you know, why Islay whiskies are peaty. Because the island is covered in a damp, peat bog, and they use these hundreds or thousands of year old decaying plant life to fuel the fire that dries the malt. And the longer the peated fire dries the malt, the smokier it becomes. Voila! Islay whisky = peaty, smokiness. Mini whisky lesson achieved!

2.3 Visit Islay’s Whisky Distilleries

No one really knows when whisky distillation began. The first official record of malt distillation went back to 1494 when King James IV of Scotland was sent 500 bottles of spirit. Following a malt tax levied in 1725, many of the early whisky distilleries went “underground” to hide from the tax man. Underground is a loose term. On Islay, many illicit stills were hiding out in the caves that bend and curve around our island. By 1823, the Excise Act was passed that legalized distillation for a fee.

Here is a list of all of the Islay whisky distilleries in alphabetical order (including local pronunciations):

1. Ardbeg – (ard-BEG)
2. Ardnahoe – (ARD-na-hoe)
3. Bowmore – (b’MORE)
4. Bruichladdich (BROOK-laddie)
5. Bunnahabhain (BUN-a-HAV-en)
6. Caol Ila – (cull-EE-la)
7. Kilchoman (kil-HO-man)
8. Lagavulin – (LAG-a-VU-lin)
9. Laphroiag – (La-FROIG)

If you’re determined to visit all of the distilleries when you visit Islay, be sure to check out their websites for the most up to date opening information!

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For those who are superbly detail oriented, you’ll notice 10 distilleries in the first photo showing Islay whisky distilleries, and only 9 of them named above. The missing one from the list is – Port Ellen Maltings (POR-tellen). The distillery was founded in 1825, but ceased distilling in 1929. However, the maltings and warehousing operations continued.

To this day, Port Ellen Maltings supplies the malt to most of Islay’s distilleries, to each distillery’s secret specifications. But get excited, Islay whisky lovers! In 2017, Diageo announced that Port Ellen Distillery will begin distilling again in 2020. Not sure how covid has affected these plans. But let’s just say the old Port Ellen Whiskies are highly sought after, so there is something to look forward to!

Diageo is no stranger to whisky, holding such brands like Caol Ila and Lagavulin (and now Port Ellen) on Islay, and others like Royal Lochnagar, Talisker, and Oban.

2.4 Can I visit Islay without being a whisky fan?

I get asked this question a lot. The answer is YES. Being a whisky fan is not a requirement to visit Islay. However, you might surprise yourself!

Prior to 2019, I had only tasted whisky on my Edinburgh food tour and visited one distillery. But I liked the idea of whisky as a hobby and was excited to learn more.

Since then, I’ve spent more time in both Speyside and Islay embracing this whisky culture. With each new expression, I was drawn in.

But fear not – you can still have an incredible Islay holiday, even if you’re not partaking in the Scotch! Hopefully, my post will introduce you to more of Islay than just its whisky.

3. How to get to Islay

Well, considering it is an island, there’s really only a few ways to visit Islay. For me, since I was already on a road trip, it involved my trusty rental car and a ferry reservation. But for those who don’t want to do that, you can also arrive by air.

Get your bearings straight before you visit Islay. If you love maps like I do, the Ordnance Survey map of Islay is perfect purchase for the travel planner and inner cartographer! Maps covering the full island, North Islay, and South Islay.

3.1 By Air

You can fly into Islay, domestically, non-stop from Glasgow on Loganair’s daily, nonstop return from – 160 – 200 GBP.

If you fly, I’d still recommend you rent a car after you arrive. So, instead of that, why not just take the ferry with your rental car and visit Islay from the mainland?

3.2 By Sea

Roundtrip ferry fares to and from Islay (one person, with a car) is about 80 GBP. You can also board the ferry as a single, foot passenger, or with a bicycle, as I saw many people do. But that still requires you to make your way to Kennacraig on the mainland. For additional help, see: How to get to Islay, using public transport from Glasgow.

CalMac Ferries run several daily ferries from mainland Scotland (Kennecraig) to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig on Islay. The ferry ride is very simple, and my ride to Port Askaig took around 2 hours.

You can also arrive to Islay on a seasonal, passenger ferry from Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. I’ve included step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast in this post.

3.3 By Tour

For those wanting a guided tour of Islay and the Whisky Isles (which means you can drink without arranging taxis or having to worry about a designated driver), Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! Starting at 335£ for a 4 day tour!

4. The 2 best places to stay for your Islay holiday

My first time on Islay, I stayed on the island for one week. I decided to break it up and stay in 2 different places on different parts of the island:

• Glenegedale House in the south,
• Port Charlotte Hotel in the Rinns of Islay, on the western part of the island.

Personally, this was a great idea. Glenegedale was quiet, homey and everything that I wanted. Port Charlotte Hotel sits inside the village of Port Charlotte, and is home to an award winning Whisky Pub. This gives it a lively atmosphere, even given physical distancing. Both have world class hospitality and are known for their amazing food. All the things that I wanted on my trip!

Visit the detailed posts on both accommodations, The Port Charlotte Hotel and Glenegedale House, and their food!

4.1 Glenegedale House

I was the first guest to Glenegedale House after lockdown lifted in July 2020. You may think that made me apprehensive, but their genuine, warm hospitality made me feel right at home! They were ready to operate in a post-covid world, and made sure their guests felt comfortable during their post-lockdown stay.

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a beautifully designed double room. Laying in bed, I had a view of the sea. It was glorious. Every morning, I woke up and turned onto my side, toward the window to watch the sea. In all my days there, I never took a photo out that window, but you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Not only is Glenegedale known for their beautiful hospitality, they are also known for their food! Their breakfasts were absolutely stunning.

During my stay at Glenegedale, I was introduced to (now, one of my favorites) porridge with whisky. Is this a tourist gimmick? Actually not. Locals will take their porridge (oatmeal for us Americans) with:

• brown sugar,
• whisky (in my case, a 10 year Laphroaig),
• and some heavy cream.

Sound intense? It’s actually really wonderful. The brown sugar offsets any of the intensity of the scotch, and you’re left with this smoky, creamy oatmeal. There are two ways to eat this – one where you mix it all together, and the other where you eat it bit by bit. I’ll let you guess which one I did.

Did I get drunk off of this? Actually, no! And it was so delicious, I had it with breakfast every single morning. It paired beautifully with their selection of home-poached fruit!

Lastly, Glenegedale House is located right next to the airport and within a 10 minute drive to Port Ellen. It is ideally located to visit the three (heavily peaty) distilleries in the south – Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig!

A big thank you to the Glenegedale House!
For my full review, click here!

*I should mention that there are hand sanitizing stations located throughout public spaces. Face shields are worn at meal and face masks at welcome. Don’t worry about it!

4.2 The Port Charlotte Hotel

Port Charlotte, a beautiful village on the western peninsula of Islay, is home to an equally beautiful namesake hotel – the Port Charlotte Hotel. Even before I arrived at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I heard about the fun whisky bar and its amazing restaurant. This trip was all about soaking up the local whisky culture, the food scene, and Islay’s delicious hospitality. And the Port Charlotte Hotel did not disappoint on any front!

Experiencing hospitality in the age of covid-19 is odd in itself, let’s be real. I knew I was in good hands at the Port Charlotte Hotel. They updated their reception area with a screen, to create space between the guest and host. But it didn’t feel unfriendly or impersonal. Each time I walked by, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and (even in July) the warmth of a roaring fire in the sitting room.

I stayed in Room 1, a double room, with a luscious sea view you could enjoy straight from bed. I don’t have any good photos of that view, because those moments that I spent in bed were particularly rainy. When the rain cleared, you could see across to the Loch Indaal House (lighthouse).

Before I arrived in Port Charlotte, I had heard tales of how amazing the food was here. And let me tell you – the breakfasts and dinners at the Port Charlotte Hotel were phenomenal! The food was so delicious and extremely fresh and high quality! When you visit Islay, there are no excuses for eating a subpar meal when you have food like this!

The beauty of a full Scottish Breakfast

From Port Charlotte, it’s easy to swing by Kilchoman Distillery and Bruichladdich Distillery, which are also located on the western peninsula. Check the distillery websites for the most up to date information on opening times and COVID-19 measures!

A big thank you to the Port Charlotte Hotel!
For my full review, click here.

*Along with hand sanitizing stations throughout, and the screen at reception, face masks are worn by servers in the restaurant.

5. Things to do in Islay – its Historical Sites

It’s easy to get starstuck with its gorgeous whiskies and hospitality when you visit Islay. But this island offers a rich history with interesting sites to see!

5.1 Finlaggan Castle

On the isle of Eilean Mór on Loch Finlaggan, is Finlaggan Castle. (Say that again? A castle on an island, in a lake, on an island…)

Well, technically, the ruins of Finlaggan Castle – once the seat of power for the Lord of the Isles, and the stronghold of Clan Donald. The Lord of the Isles controlled the Isle of Man, the Hebrides, Knoydart, Ardnamurchan, and the Kintyre Peninsula, as well as the Glens of Antrim across the sea in Northern Ireland. At the height of their power, Clan Donald was the greatest landowner and one of the most powerful lords in Britain, after the Kings of England and Scotland themselves.

In medieval times, there were more than 20 structures on the island, including homes, workshops, and storehouses, which were made of both wood and stone. The above photo is of the Great Hall and is one of a few structures still standing.

The castle and accompanying chapel were likely built in the 13th century. Clan Donald held Finlaggan Castle and the Lordship of the Isles until in 1493. The end of the MacDonald Lords came when King James IV of Scotland seized all their ancestral homelands, estates, and titles.

Currently, the title of the Lord of the Isles still exists! The title of Lord of the Isles is held by the Duke of Rothesay (the equivalent of the Prince of Wales in Scotland), better known to the rest of us as Prince William.

Marshy land on the way to Finlaggan Castle.
This marshy, boggy land is perfect for peat cultivation.

Today, the Finlaggan Trust runs a visitor center and maintains the wooden jetty across Loch Finlaggan to the ruins. Without the jetty, the isle and castle ruins would be cut off from visitors. It is a short, but lovely walk from the visitor center and car park to the jetty. Don’t miss the honesty box for donations to help the upkeep and maintenance!

5.2 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

5.3 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton).

Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

It is an incredible site to see!!

5.4 Museum of Islay Life

To get the most out of your Islay trip, a visit to the Museum of Islay Life up in Port Charlotte is a must. It’s a walk back in time, from when the island was first settled (from prehistoric times) to present day. It also has so many artifacts collected over the years from real Ileachs (pronounced EE-lokh, and meaning a person who comes from Islay). A wonderfully curated collection!

Some of the really fun “old things” that I enjoyed seeing (in complete random order), a pre-electric iron, old photographs, butter molds (with thistle designs and everything!), an original sodastream machine from ages ago! There was a huge variety of things, but also easy for you to walk through and take it all in!

And of course, the history of Islay whisky and its illicit stills. I won’t entirely give it away, but the story has to do with the tax man (excise tax) and the need to have to hide their whisky from the tax man. Hide it in caves, hide it in coffins, you name it – there was whisky hiding. I absolutely loved seeing the old photos of the distilleries and the workers, as well as the peat tools you see above! A walk back into time!

Located within walking distance of the Port Charlotte Hotel. So, if you’re staying there, pop on over. If you’re staying elsewhere, definitely stop by for a meal before or after!

5.5 Islay Woolen Mill

Hidden among the Bridgend Woods, The Islay Woolen Mill was first established in 1883. Using two restored Dobcross looms from the 1920s, the Covell family have been working together since 1981 to weave luscious cloth. The old looms are definitely a sight to see! You might recognize some of the designs, as their cloth designs have featured in Braveheart and Forrest Gump to name a few. Commemorate your visit to Islay with an official distillery tartan scarf or throw!

6. Best outdoor things to do in Islay

6.1 Beaches

Most people wouldn’t think it, but one of the best things to do in Islay is to visit the beautiful beaches! There are more beaches that I haven’t gone to yet, but here are some you should put on your list when you visit Islay.

6.1.1 Machir Bay

Located near the Kilchoman Distillery, Machir Bay is a beautiful sand beach. During low tide, you can see remnants of a shipwreck. Maybe you want to stop by Kilchoman on the way to Machir Bay, so that you can enjoy a Machir Bay Whisky at Machir Bay.

6.1.2 Saligo Bay

Saligo Bay is generally considered Islay’s most beautiful beach! It is absolutely stunning, with large rock formations around. As you can see from the photo below, it wasn’t beautifully sunny the day that I went, but I still enjoyed a long walk along the beach.

6.1.3 White Hart Beach

Watch this video on YouTube.

The White Hart Beach is located right when you enter the Port Ellen, just opposite the hotel at No. 1 Charlotte Street. This is a favorite of mine, with views of Port Ellen Maltings and the village of Port Ellen itself. Sometimes you’ll find me beachcombing for sea glass.

6.1.4 Claggain Bay

Unlike all of the above, the beach at Claggain Bay is a pebble beach, not sand. It’s perfect to stop by following a visit to the Kildalton Cross. It’s kind of out there, but beautiful and well worth it! From my conversations with locals, this is often their favorite!

6.2 Best Walks on Islay

There are a number of incredible walks and hikes for your Islay trip. Even though you can get your steps in, you better be prepared with the right clothes! Chances are, it may rain, but prepare your wellies! You may step into some mud or peat bog.

These walks are kind of a must when you visit Islay – to see the views, yes, but also to make some room for more delicious food!

6.2.1 American Monument

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

The Tuscania, carrying over 2,000 soldiers and 300 crew, sank 7 miles off the coast of Islay. A German UB-77 submarine torpedoed the Tuscania, resulting in a direct hit. Eight months later, closer to Machir Bay, the HMS Otranto collided with HMS Kashmir during a heavy storm. Over 400 British and American troops were lost. Many are buried in the Kilchoman military cemetary.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

For more trails, download AllTrails+

6.2.2 Around Portnahaven

Everyone in Islay will tell you Portnahaven is a delightful fishing village on that side of the island. And it’s true – I definitely agree. I would even put it as one of the must-see places when you visit Islay.

I spent a few hours walking around the village and the next village over, Port Wemyss. Just off the coast, on Orsay, is the Rinns of Islay Lighthouse.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get to see some seals lounging around in the Portnahaven harbor. Or, if you have a massive zoom lens like I now do, you’ll see them lounging at the base of the lighthouse.

Curious what lens I used for this? My new Sigma 150-600mm. The seal was shot at 600mm. I have to admit that I absolutely love it. (Even if it does weigh almost 4.5 pounds, and is super ginormous…)

6.2.3 Three Distilleries Path

The Three Distilleries Path is arguably my favorite walk on Islay and probably one of the best walks on Islay. It is a one way walk from Port Ellen to Ardbeg Distillery, passing Laphroaig and Lagavulin along the way. It’s about 6 km in total and is a one way trip. For me, I like to take the bus from Port Ellen (for 2£) down to Ardbeg, and walk back. Feel free to read all about my walk along the Three Distilleries Path when I did a whisky tasting along the way.

For those who love the purple blanket of bluebells, there are lots between Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig! But if bluebells are your thing…

6.2.4 Bridgend Woods

Located just opposite Islay House Square, bridgend woods is just off of the main road between Port Askaig and Bridgend. However, don’t let that bustling road traffic fool you. Within seconds, you’re in the quiet sanctuary or what feels like an ancient forest. There are lots of walking path options within the woods, and I’ve really only done a fraction of it!

But, between May and June, Bridgend Woods is the place on Islay for bluebells. They blanket the whole forest floor, and really, everywhere you go! But don’t go frolocking in the fields and take those stereotypial flower field instagram photos. Bluebells are extremely delicate and will die off if trampled upon!

6.2.5 Bruichladdich Walking Path

The newest walking path on Islay is surely becoming one of my favorites. The Bruichladdich Walking Path connects the villages of Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte, via a paved coastal path. Go down to the secret beach at Port Ban and admire the Bruichladdich Islay-grown barley waving to you in the wind. The path is great for cyclists and walkers of all ages.

I’ve added the Bruichladdich Walking Path to AllTrails because it’s such a great walk. Download AllTrails Pro download offline maps, find nearby trails, and more!

6.3 Boat adventures

Islay Sea Adventures has the great tours for adults and families alike. Recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Best Outdoor/Adventure Activity, and having been on several of their boat trips, going on a boat with Islay Sea Adventures is definitely one of the best things to do in Islay!

During the tourist season, they have daily sailings for wildlife tours, fishing trips, seafood trips, and sunset boat trips! I’ve been on several of Islay Sea Adventures trips – the most popular being the wildlife trip. Most trips begin from Port Ellen and sail the southern tip, with views of the southern Islay distilleries, and then on over to a special area of conservation for more seal and deer spotting!

Those who are seafood-obsessed, you have to go on their Seafood Special Tour! The seafood special to includes a special stop in a bay. Captain Harold then takes to the gas grill with some hand dived scallops, butter and herbs. The smell alone is intoxicating. Inside, there’s lobster and crab, salad and some bread waiting for you. An absolute feast on the seas!!

7. My favorite MUST VISIT Islay small businesses

7.1 Sea Salt in Port Ellen

Sea Salt is a delightful bistro that comes highly recommended for an amazing meal. It’s one of those places that is so good, maybe you visit twice during your first trip! Ok, that is exactly what I did.

I ate at Sea Salt on my first night in Islay, upon the recommendation of Emma from Glenegedale. What I ordered set off a chain reaction of “wooo, what’s she eating?” To which I happily replied, “The seafood linguini. You won’t regret it!”

The second time I visited Sea Salt, I had an amazing fish and chips. The fish was super fresh, with light and crispy batter. I honestly thought about having the seafood linguini again, but that would be silly. And sometimes, you just wanna go for the classics!

At this point, I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve eaten at Sea Salt, for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

7.2 Spirited Soaps in Bowmore

One of the shops I came across in Islay is Spirited Soaps, which became a pillar of the community during a hand sanitizer shortage on the island. Along with Bruichladdich Distillery, Spirited Soaps addressed the community shortage on the island by creating Islay Hand Sanitiser, which you can find sprinkled everywhere a hand sanitizing station is needed on Islay.

Spirited Soaps happily marries Islay’s whisky tradition with soap and personal care products. Although I may be simplifying this, all soaps contain some alcohol. So, why not use the alcohol that the island is famous for? They’ve interestingly used parts of the malted barley of all 9 Islay distilleries (and Lussa Gin and Jura Distillery on neighboring Jura) to create unique, beautiful soaps of different scents and smells. Islay whisky soap? Lussa Gin soap? Count me in! These soaps don’t necessarily smell like your traditional, peated Islay whisky or alcoholic spirits!

When I visited Bowmore, I had a lovely chat with Gemma, the new proprietress of Spirited Soaps. She happened to be cutting small soap bars from a giant block when I entered the shop.

I looked in awe at all of the different soaps and lotions and creams. In pre-covid times, I would be opening up each jar, smelling them, testing out samples…the whole nine yards. That day, I hesitated and told Gemma of that hesitation. She said that since I sanitized my hands (with Islay Hand Sanitiser, made by Spirited Soaps) when I first walked in the shop, it was alright to open, smell and test anything.

The thing that I found super interesting, was most distilleries did not want their soaps to smell like their spirits. For example, Laphroaig specifically did not – instead, their soap smells like peppermint! Also, there’s grist in Kilchoman’s soaps! I picked up a few bars of soaps as gifts and for myself. A Laphroaig bar for my dear friend who loves their peaty whiskies, and a Lussa Gin bar to pair with the bottle I’d buy for another friend as a gift!

Last but not least, they’ve recently changed their soap packaging to be plastic free! Printed by It’s a Wrap UK, in a carbon neutral factory, the inks are made from soya-based vegetable oils, on environmentally friendly, biodegradable and recyclable materials! Local Islay-made soaps, eco-friendly packaging… what more could you ask for?

So, stop by when you’re in Bowmore! You’ll be sure to pick up some things for yourself and for friends!

Spirited Soaps is also available for purchase in their online shop, located here.

7.3 Peatzeria in Bowmore

Besides the absolutely delightful name (who doesn’t love a pun?), their pizzas are incredible as is their dessert! To give you an idea of what their pizza toppings … my first time at Peatzeria, I was sitting outside on their terrace, enjoying a view of the sea. A delivery man walked by, holding a crate of fresh lobsters, and proceeded to walk into the kitchen. “I like what you got there,” I said to him, in the least creepy, most seafood-excited way. I think he politely looked at me like I was insane.

Besides lobster being on pizza (which I haven’t tried), they have a variety of local seafood favorites – including the one I have tried – scallops and parma ham. If seafood isn’t your thing, there are more traditional pizzas. I’ve tried the black and red, which has incredible black pudding, caramelized red onion chutney, and goats cheese. Hello incredible Scottish flavors!

While they can always give you a box to take away leftovers (they are still delicious the next day), be sure to save some room for dessert. You won’t regret it!

7.4 Lussa Gin (ok, on Jura but still!)

My search for amazing spirits and great stories brought me to Islay’s neighboring island, Jura. Jura is the home to only 220 people, and is a place where red deer outnumber humans 30 to 1. Only a quick 6 minute ferry ride from Port Askaig to Feolin, and suddenly you’re in a completely different world.

You know that I love my remote places, but the drive up to Ardlussa, home of Lussa Gin, was one of the most remote drives I’ve been on. From the ferry, it’s 25 miles along a single track road, with the most stunning views to offer.

The story of Lussa Gin begins with 3 friends – Alicia, Claire, and Georgina. All three were doing other things in life, until one night in 2015 they decided to come together and make gin. Through some trial and error, and with their first 10 litre copper, alembic still named “Jim”, what resulted was a gin crafted with local botanicals. 15 different ones, to be exact. I know you’re curious which ones, so here is a little excerpt from their brochure:

“The flavour of Lussa Gin is led by juniper (1) with a citrus nose from the lemon thyme (2). It has an aromatic depth of flavour with notes of water mint (3), bog myrtle (4) and Scots pine (5), balanced with a savoury kick from the ground elder (6) and sea lettuce (7). Honeysuckle (8) and elderflower (9) add sweetness and finally, rose petals (10) and rosehip (11) give the gin a smoothness and length of finish.”

The remaining 4 are lighter, but nonetheless critical: coriander seed, lemon balm, orris root, lime tree flowers. 15! To keep things local to Jura, each flower and herb are grown, gathered or foraged in Ardlussa or nearby the estate on Jura.

I was happy to have met Alicia and Georgina when I visited Lussa Gin. Even though their distillery tour is currently not operating due to covid-19, you are allowed to visit (only 2 people allowed at a time). Gotta make sure there’s social distance between the humans, little “Jim” and now his big (200 litre) brother, “Hamish”.

One of the things I loved learning about Lussa Gin, is that the gin is distilled, bottled and labeled by hand, by these three women. A strip of tweed also adorns each bottle. What’s the significance? It is the estate tweed for Ardlussa (where the gin is made), but with an extra green stripe to signify the botanicals. Love the attention to detail!

Come and visit Jura and hear the story of Lussa Gin from the ladies themselves. The story telling goes hand in hand with a sample gin tasting.

The gin was so fresh and aromatic. I tasted it with Walters Gregors, a lovely light tonic from Aberdeenshire – Scotland’s first tonic water! This is Lussa’s tonic pairing of choice. If you’re feeling fancy during those summer months, don’t forget lots of ice, and maybe a wedge of frozen lemon and a spring of mint, lemon thyme, lemon balm, or rose petal!

Be sure to stop by their distillery on Jura for a visit. It’s a beautiful drive, with a beautiful gin at the end of it!

Lussa Gin is available to purchase here!

7.5 Other Islay small businesses

Port Ellen – Some other small businesses that I love supporting are:

• Campbell’s SPAR – in Port Ellen. My local shop, always good for a laugh and some curry pasta from the deli;
• The Copper Still Coffee – right at Port Ellen pier, open a few days a week for coffees, quiches, sausage rolls and sweet delights!
• Little Charlotte Cafe – a lovely wee cafe next to the White Hart Beach, for luches, coffees and cakes!
• Balaclava Byre – located just outside of Port Ellen (on your way from the airport), the Balaclava Byre is Port Ellen’s newest restaurant and farm shop! Stop there for your Sunday roasts and local produce;
• The Blue Letter Box – cute wee shop (and post office) in Port Ellen, with Arran ice cream in the summers, and locally made gifts for you to fawn over.

Bowmore:

• Lynn Labels – a delightful coffee shop and diner with toasties, scones, and gifts. The scones in the window will make you do a double take!
• Celtic House – a local bookstore and gift shop, with all the Islay and whisky-related books you can ask for! Don’t forget to check out the cafe upstairs, known by me for their milkshakes!

8. My Islay Whisky Tour (so far)

I wanted to show you that Islay is much more than just its whisky. But when you visit Islay, you can’t overlook their whisky entirely. So here we go!

8.1 Kilchoman Distillery

Of course you can’t visit Islay without visiting a distillery. Let me introduce you to Kilchoman, or “Islay’s Farm Distillery.” Kilchoman Distillery prides themselves as growing most of their own barley on their farmlands and being one of the few distilleries on Scotland to practice traditional floor malting. Kilchoman was established in 2005, and was the first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years!

Be sure to try their 100% Islay whisky, where everything from the barley to the distilling to the warehousing and bottling is 100% completed on Islay!

So far, I’ve managed to do two Kilchoman tastings in person:

• one amazing tasting on the beach in Machir Bay,
• and a tour (plus tasting bottles to go!) in their farm distillery.

Social distanced whisky tasting on the beach, especially with amazing weather, is highly recommended!

Whisky tasting on the beach? SIGN ME UP!

Thanks @Kilchomanwhisky for the fun tasting yesterday. Drinkin’ a Machir Bay in Machir Bay! ☀️🥃🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿😎

Couldn’t have asked for a more gorgeous day to pair with 4 lovely whiskies!

(last photo not mine 😄)@IslayandJura @VisitScotland pic.twitter.com/rbBSi5nz0b

— Lannie Travels (@lannietravels) July 22, 2020

If you have some extra time, you should definitely grab a cullen skink and a toastie from the cafe at Kilchoman. It’s definitely one of my favorite cullen skinks, and not to be missed!

As a little side story, after my first trip to Islay, I brought some tasting packs of the 4 core range Kilchoman whiskies to Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, over in Pitlochry. Iain, a Master Chocolatier, spent an afternoon with me to do a whisky and chocolate pairing. It’s incredible how the flavors of the chocolate bring out the flavors in the whisky!

8.2 Ardbeg Distillery

Ardbeg Distillery is one of my favorite distilleries to visit on Islay. So much so that it was the first stop on my 40th birthday friends tour of Islay! Look at us all enjoying ourselves on the Ardbeg pier with a crackin, peaty dram.

Ardbeg is quite peaty. Technically their minimum peat-smoking level at 55 ppm is one of the highest in the whisky industry. And who doesn’t love a peaty whisky?! The Ardbeg 10 is a classic, and Corryvreckan is probably one of my favorites!

Take a tour to take a peak at their new stills, housed in a new still house! You’ll have to take a tour to take a peek at the views the stills have into the bay.

Andddd, if it’s a sunny day during high season, you have to eat at the ARDstream food truck!

For me, it was a wild mushroom bao – and it was delicious as it sounds. They have both hot options on the griddle, and lighter fare like sandwiches and scones. During the winter, the Old Kiln Cafe is open for lunch inside, and their food is literally exquisite! One of the best distillery meals I’ve ever had!

Pop into the distillery shop, which is quirky and fun in itself! You can purchase different types of tasting packs and some Ardbeg cocktails, to enjoy outside on the picnic tables or at home.

8.3 Bunnahabhain Distillery

Bunnahabhain Distillery is an interesting Islay whisky, in that it mostly produces unpeated spirit! Their style is unpeated, sherry whiskies, which is a delicious combination in my humble opinion. One of my favorite whisky tastings on Islay has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting, often hosted by Islay whisky legend, David Brodie.

In fact, it was another stop on my 40th birthday friends tour around Islay!

The Warehouse 9 tasting will keep you entertained as you learn about the different sherry types of sherry that Bunnahabhain casks used to hold, and how that affects the taste of their whiskies. If you’re lucky, a certain someone may serenade you with a guitar and a song.

8.4 Ardnahoe Distillery

The newest member of the Islay whisky distillery club is Ardnahoe Distillery. Ardnahoe only opened in April 2019. However, before the distillery opened, Ardnahoe had already begun filling casks back in 2018. Now, we wait, as they mature. For those who are eager beavers, casks are available for purchase on their website. Their whiskies will be heavily peated (with roughly the same PPM as average Laphroaig whiskies), with notes of tropical fruit and earthy cereal. Sounds great to me!

Besides distilling their own whiskies at Ardnahoe, they also independently bottle whiskies. Want to go down this rabbit hole with me? That means that they buy spirits from different distilleries and select their own casks for maturation. Some independent bottlers blend together their spirits to make an entirely new whisky. This whisky world is complicated, no?

I didn’t manage a tour the first time, but I had a quick look around their shop and had a stunningly delicious lemon coconut drizzle cake in their beautiful restaurant & cafe. You don’t want to miss the views of the Paps of Jura from the gorgeous terrace either!

My second time at Ardnahoe, I popped by for a whisky and food pairing. Being a ridiculous foodie, and someone who is loving whisky more and more, food and whisky together are my kryptonite. The pairings change, but that day, we had:

• Scarabus (bottled from the same company that owns Ardnahoe) – paired with a blue cheese mouse on oat cakes,
• (a palette cleanser of tomatoes, cucumbers, and dill)
• a smokey Isle of Skye Talisker 8 years old, paired with a venison sausage roll,
• (a palette cleanser of strawberry and melon with basil)
• and Laphroaig 12 years old, matured in a Sherry cask, paired with a chocolate, orange tart.

I absolutely loved this experience! I’m always amazed how the smell and flavor of whisky changes before and after food! Such a complicated spirit.

Even though I already had nibbles during the food and whisky tasting, I needed to sober up before driving home – ahh the downfalls of solo activities. However, the restaurant in Ardnahoe (called the Illicit Still hehe) has incredible food. One lobster garlic noodles for me!

Do you see how whisky isn’t the only reason to visit Islay? But the food too! The food can hold its own!

Parting Thoughts

When you visit Islay, you’re enveloped in this magical blanket of warmth and hospitality. I hope I was able to convey a bit of that in this post along with sharing some ideas on the best things to do in Islay.

I had an absolutely amazing time during my first trip to Islay. It was only 7 days, but it left such an impression on me that I made it my home nine months later!! It’s such a special place – magical even. Everyone was so friendly and lovely to talk to, which continues to this day. The community on Islay welcomed me with open arms, as they will you too!

Not only has Islay enchanted me, but so did neighboring Jura! I’d love to spend more time on Jura.

• To stay or simply to have a meal at the Jura Hotel, famous for their Jura venison and some Lussa Gin ice cream to wrap up the meal.
• To visit the Jura Distillery – their “Jura: The Sound” whisky was the last thing I bought at the Dubai Duty Free airport before lockdown. It was a welcome companion during lockdown days.
• Properly see the island and some wildlife, with Jura Island Tours.
• Find someone to go hiking with, because this wild land needs to be hiked and the remoteness of the island genuinely makes me want to be with someone who knows where they’re going.

Did my determination to photograph all the distilleries extend to Jura? Of course it did.

So as you can see, even though I am not a whisky connoisseur, I’ve had a very fulfilling experience both on my first visit, and now, living there. Islay whisky is world renowned, but hopefully you can see that there’s so much more to the island than just the whisky.

Until next time, hope everyone is staying socially distant and safe. Be well, and find some Islay whisky or Lussa Gin to drink responsibly, friends!

Map for your things to do in Islay

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Back to the dogs for a minute. Not all dogs can be truffle hunters – only a certain one. The Italian breed, Lagotto Romagnolo, the truffle hunter, comes from the Romagna sub-region of Italy. It appears to be a poodle, terrier mix.

1. What are truffles?

Truffles are a smelly fungus, and certain types are used in foods. Black truffles or white truffles are most commonly used in gastronomy, depending on the type of cuisine. Truffles grow near certain trees (their “partner species”, which support their growth. For example, supporting trees for truffles include oak, pine, hazelnut, fir, and beech trees, among others.

Truffles grow in stable climates of cold and wet winters, followed by warm, dry summers. Although this sounds like much of the globe, truffles typically prefer Mediterranean soils, and are actually quite rare. You can find truffles pretty easily in parts of Italy, Croatia, and Slovenia.

Why the rarity? Truffles are difficult to cultivate, and require almost perfect conditions to grow. Without an exterior shell, truffles are also exposed to the elements. On top of all of this, they’re difficult to find too.

With everything stacked against truffles, it’s no wonder that they are exceedlingly expensive. A pound of black truffles typically sell for a few hundred dollars, whereas a pound of white truffles sell for a few thousand!

2. Truffle hunting in Rome

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

By now, you’re probably wondering why the ode to truffles in this post. A few years ago, while on holiday in Italy, my parents and I went on a truffle hunting excursion outside Rome through Airbnb. We were staying in Rome at the time, and it was a chance to get out the blazing summer heat in the city.

I bet you never thought of truffle hunting as a “thing to do” while you’re on vacation. But let me just tell you how amazing it was!

We first took the train 30 – 45 min northwest of Rome to Olgiata station. Matteo was there to pick us up. We piled into his car and started chatting away immediately. Although Matteo said his English wasn’t that great, it actually was. What we didn’t know at the time, was that Wendy and Uji (his two truffle hunting dogs) were actually in the car with us! Matteo’s car was a little hatchback and they were nestled into a cage behind the back seat. So, 4 humans and 2 truffle hunters set out to the forest for an adventure.

Looking to plan a trip to Italy? Click for an extensive guide on everything you need to know to plan your Italian adventure! My friend Lisa, from Following the Rivera, is my go-to Italy expert!

Meet Uji, your truffle hunter

While Uji is your typical “truffle hunter” breed, Wendy was not. I’m not really a dog person, so I can’t tell you specifically. What I do know, is Wendy was a lot younger and more mischevious. Matteo only completed training Wendy a few months prior, but she proved to be a fast learner. Sometimes Wendy michieviously ate small truffles that she found herself, instead of bringing it to Matteo. Like I said, she’s still new to the job.

3. How does truffle hunting work?

Although the cultivation and search for truffles is indeed challenging, as a tourist on a truffle hunting experience, it was really easy going. Relaxing, even.

We walk around the forest, specifically to spots with the aforementioned kind of trees, and the truffle hunters begin working. Truffles grow and hide a little beneanth the soil’s surface. If the truffles are near to the surfaces, Uji or Wendy picks it up in their mouth and bring it to Matteo. For each truffle they find, they get a treat. Matteo goes around with his walking stick to disrupt some of the topsoil to help out the hunters.

In between the truffles, there are gorgeous views and wild horses! Well, not wild, but they roam free in the woods. I mean, how amazing, right?

4. And now, to eat!

Following the truffle hunt, it was time to feast on our treasures! We went back to Matteo’s house, where his partners made us an amazing lunch with the truffles Wendy and Uji found. If you have a picture in your mind of a meal with a large Italian family, sitting outside in a beautiful country home, that would be our lunch!

Unfortunately, I didn’t take photos of the garden or our other hosts. But here is the freshly made food, all with truffles on top!

Looking for a Truffle Hunting experience in Istria, Croatia? My friend, Steven from The Thorough Tripper took a great tour there that ended in an amazing meal too!

Parting Thoughts on Truffle Hunting in Rome

This was absolutely one of the funnest food experiences I’ve been on! From the tranquil forest area, to truffle hunting with two playful dogs, to the wonderful conversation and delicious meal, everything was perfect!

If you ever find yourself in Rome, or in a surrounding truffle area, look for a truffle experience! It’ll be interesting and fun, and most of all, delicious!!

Plans after Rome? If you’re heading north to Milan and looking for a hotel, check out Aparthotel Meneghino.

Wanna go truffle hunting? Sign up!

Click here to sign up for Airbnb and get $55 off your first trip or experience!
That’s half off this truffle experience!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

or Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/