If you’re having trouble pronouncing Cheltenham like me, don’t think too hard about it – it goes by quick: CHELT-en-em.

Cheltenham is famous for a number of things, mostly unrelated to each other and random, in comparison with each other:

• Cheltenham is the most complete Regency town in the UK and you will get Pride and Prejudice vibes from the old spa town. Cheltenham came to prominence after King George III was recommended to “take in the waters” from the mineral springs in 1788.
• Now remember, I said … unrelated.
• Cheltenham is the headquarters for GCHQ, Britain’s home of signal intelligence. The building, affectionally called a donut because it looks like one, does not accept visitors. However, there are some fun murals around town that remind you that they’re there and always listening.
• Previously called the “Calcutta of the Cotswolds” and an “Anglo-Indian Paradise”, Cheltenham had the most Anglo-Indian residents in Britain outside of London. Because of Cheltenham’s history with The East India Company and the British Raj era, it is home to a number of incredible South Asian restaurants.
• Cheltenham is at the gateway to the Cotswolds or at the edge of the Cotswolds. It could be a great base for exploring all those cute picturesque Cotswolds villages!

• It’s home to the Cheltenham Festival, “a horse racing-based meeting in the National Hunt racing calendar in the UK, with race prize money second only to the Grand National.” – wikipedia
  • Sorry to use the definition from Wikipedia, but having never gone to a horse race, I wanted to use the right terminology when I described it. In National Hunt racing (or jump racing), horses are required to jump fences and ditches. And the biggest National Hunt events in the UK are the Grand National and the Cheltenham Gold Cup.
• Besides the big horse racing festival, Cheltenham is home to over 30 different festivals, and is known as the Festival Town! Among the bigger festivals are the Cheltenham Jazz Festival (April-May), the Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival (summer), the Cheltenham Paint Festival (for street art, in September) and the world’s first Literary Festival (October).

With the variety of things to do in Cheltenham, there really is something for everyone!

Before I begin, parts of this trip were sponsored, including my stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments, as well as my bike ride around Cheltenham with Compass Holidays. I sincerely thank them for inviting me on this trip. Besides the cycling tour, all itinerary arrangements and opinions are my own.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s go!

Day 1 – A Foodie Weekend Getaway in Cheltenham

I arrived to Cheltenham Spa rail station midday Friday on a brisk but sunny March morning, having taken a short 45 min train from Birmingham New Street. The station is located about a mile outside of the town center. A quick stop at Beechurst Serviced Apartments to drop off my bags, and to check out my nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham. (all the details below!)

I couldn’t have been more anxious to get out and about. Easily enough, the bus into town is located right outside. Turn left out of the apartments to take Bus 97/98 Gold directly into Cheltenham. Turn right (and cross the street) for the bus to Gloucester.

Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the UK’s most complete Regency Town.

Le Champignon Sauvage

Knowing that Cheltenham was a foodie town meant carefully selecting each of my meals in order to maximize my time there. Of course, last minute planning also meant that my first meal happened to be the most extravagant – a lunch tasting menu at Le Champignon Sauvage. Le Champignon Sauvage, or the Wild Mushroom in French, had been Cheltenham and Gloucestershire’s only Michelin Starred restaurant for many years until nearby Lumiere was awarded a star this year (2023).

Run by husband and wife, David and Helen Everitt-Matthias, since 1987 Le Champignon Sauvage has been an institution in culinary Cheltenham. An old review I read called Chef David’s style as “a pure marriage of rich and poor” opting to use cheaper cuts of meats and offal, along with food foraged from the Cotswolds’ outdoors, in classically French dishes.

Of course, people can say this is part of the sustainable eating, zero waste fad. But to be honest, Chef David and Helen began doing this decades ago, when a recession hit and times were tough. And you’d never feel like you were eating anything less than stellar. Not only is the food absolutely exquisite, but the experience is complimented by the lovely and unique decor, thanks to Helen. The restaurant is filled with incredible art that kept this solo diner enthralled throughout the meal.

My 3-course lunch set me back 47 GBP (a great deal if you’re hungry, considering the 2-course option is 40 GBP). Despite me showing you only two courses, you better believe I had all three. 😉 This was the perfect start to my foodie weekend in Cheltenham.

After lunch, I needed a serious stroll. Luckily, the town is very walkable with lots of outdoor green spaces. I made sure to stop by Montpellier Gardens and Imperial Gardens to soak in the brisk spring day, but in reality I was on a food mission to try Cheltenham’s signature pastry.

The HorseChoux Pastry at L’Artisan

A foodie visit to Cheltenham is not complete without your signature HorseChoux pastry from L’Artisan. Paying homage to the racecourse, the horseshoe-shaped pastry is made with a choux bun base (see what they did there? love a good pun) and cream puff filling, with a thin, light chocolate horseshoe on top. The attention to detail is lovely, as each chocolate horseshoe has the 7 lucky pins on the horseshoe.

I opted for the original flavor, the Racecourse, with hazelnut and almond praline filling. You can also get the Pittville Park (pistachio), the Pump Room (zingy lemon) and the Queens (raspberry). They also have limited edition flavors as well!

Getting a HorseChoux pastry in Cheltenham is an absolute must if you’ve got a sweet tooth! I took one back with me to Beechurst Serviced Apartments, and it made the most delightful snack paired with a strong coffee!

After grabbing my HorseChoux, I did another turn about town before catching the bus back to the apartment for a wee rest.

The Curry Corner

Sometimes I underestimate how tiring it can be to be walking around outside in briskly cold weather. My wee rest turned into curling up in the cozy Holst Apartment for way too long, and suddenly it was time to sort my dinner. I knew it had to be South Asian food, due to Cheltenham’s history and importance with the British East Indies Company.

For those interested in this unique intersection of history, food, India and Imperialism, I’d suggest the Curry and Colonels tour. (Next time for me!)

I opted for The Curry Corner, an award-winning restaurant opened by the Krori family, which claims to be one of the oldest Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK! Thankfully, they deliver which made all my cozy dreams come true. I may have gone a little overboard with 2 orders of samosas, but such is the benefit of having a full kitchen and refrigerator at my disposal! Leftovers for later. 😉

My two orders of samosas were the regular veggie samosas along with an order of Brixham crab samosas, filled with Cornwall fresh crab. Of course, the fresh crab samosa would catch my eye! It was stunningly flavorful, sweet even. I’m so glad I got both samosas for some extra variety!

The main event had to be the Chef’s signature 16 spice masala, which I had with lamb tikka. Add an incredibly fragrant garlic pilaf rice with it, and you have a perfect night in! Chefs Shamsul and Saleha Krori have been cooking since the restaurant opened in 1977, and is now joined by daughter Monrusha in the kitchen.

Day 2 – exploring Cheltenham by bike

After a fabulous first day focused on food, Day 2 in Cheltenham would be spent exploring the Regency Cheltenham cycle trail on bike, thanks to Compass Holidays. The self-guided trail, which starts at the Cheltenham Train Station, is a gentle 6-mile trail, taking you along the Honeybourne Line, through Pittville Park, and back around through to the town centre.

This activity was kindly gifted by Compass Holidays.

There were a few admin items to take care of before setting out: download the app (for my cycling GPS) and adjust the height of the bicycle to fit me. Remember, safety first!

Prices for the Regency Cheltenham Cycle Trail are:

• the mobile app with GPS and information on the cycle trail – 10 GBP;
• standard bicycle hire (25 GBP) or e-Bike hire (35 GBP). All hires include mobile phone mount, helmet, lock and basic repair kit.

and then I was off, along the Honeybourne line (an old railyway line) and onto the Pittville Pump Room!

The Pittville Pump Room

The Pittville Pump Room, built between 1825 and 1830, is the largest (and newest) spa building to be constructed in Cheltenham. The waters around Cheltenham were known to have high mineral content since the early 1700s, but it wasn’t until King George III visited Cheltenham in 1788 that the town became increasingly famous for its waters. Unfortunately the Pump Room did not prove to be successful venture, and the Room and the grounds were passed to the town council in 1890. Nowadays, you’ll find various exhibitions being hosted there, as well as being a concert venue for the Cheltenham Music Festival.

The Pump Room is located on the northern end of Pittville Park, and is a lovely park with a playground for families. One of the lovely green spaces that Cheltenham has!

Cheltenham Racecourse & the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway

From here, although it’s not on the Regency Cycle Trail, I thought it was worth a slight detour to go visit the racecourse. When I visited, the Cheltenham Festival was only a week or two away, and excitement around the races were high. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see any horses, jockeys or even the race track itself, but it was fun to take a stroll around the grounds.

From one end of the racecourse to the other is a little surprise that I discovered – the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway. For those rail enthusiasts, this is a volunteer-run heritage steam and diesel railway that travels 28 miles between Cheltenham Racecourse and Broadway (Cotswolds). The route follows the Great Western Rail’s old Cheltenham – Birmingham main line, which use to run via Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.

For 25 GBP, you can get an unlimited day ticket to go between Cheltenham and Broadway, riding in 70 year old train carriages, pulled by either a steam or diesel-powered locomotive (engine car). This definitely goes hand in hand with a “step back in time” to experience Cheltenham theme! I didn’t have time on this trip for the rail journey, but I hear the views across the Cotswolds are absolutely stunning!

Lunch at The Coconut Tree

After having worked up an appetite from the morning’s cycle and exploration, and checking my map for the rest of the route, I decided now would be the perfect time to pause and have a lunch break. You can’t be too surprised at this priority.

I don’t know if it was the South Asian mood I was already in or if I was just craving Sri Lankan street food, but I decided to go with the Coconut Tree for lunch. Interesting story, 5 Sri Lankan friends made their way to the UK to be closer to family or to continue their studies. One of them made Cheltenham his base, and the rest followed soon after. In 2016, the 5 friends had to move out of their flat and were looking for a new place with cheap rent. They came across the flat above St. Paul’s Tavern (which included the rent for the pub) and from there, the idea of a Sri Lankan tapas place with great cocktails was born.

After 6 months of renovating it themselves at night after working their day job, the first Coconut Tree opened in Cheltenham. Today, they have locations in 9 cities across Southwest England and Wales.

For me, it was an egg hopper (coconut milk pancake, with lots of sambol) and black pork (belly). The food was incredibly flavorful (and super authentic!) and the vibe was fun and easy going. If I didn’t have to cycle home, I definitely would have tried some of their delicious cocktails! The Coconut Tree is definitely a must eat in Cheltenham!

After lunch, I was back on the trail and enjoying spring starting to blossom around me.

The trail takes you back into the city center, and it’s a great time to pause to roam around on foot. Besides the distinctly Regency architecture, there are a few sculptures and things you’ll come across that definitely require a more detailed look. Two of my favorites would be the Neptune Fountain, rumored to be inspired by Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and the Hare and the Minotaur on The Promenade. These two vastly different sculptures really only highlight Cheltenham’s culture of creativity and arts, which the town loves to celebrate through its numerous festivals.

The CheeseWorks – always planning ahead!

I took the opportunity whilst in town to do a wee bit of shopping. I stopped in a few vintage shops and almost came home with a gold embroidered cloak! What if there is a ball? You never know when you’ll need one? But the real excitement of my shopping experience was at CheeseWorks.

I walked into CheeseWorks with a mission – to get local charcuterie that would become my quiet dinner at home. I began chatting with the clerk over the local cheeses, and then he asked what I was looking for. “Honestly,” I said, “I just want to spend about 15 GBP, and get a random spread of local meats and cheeses.”

Simple enough, you came to the right place.

-The Cheeseworks

I’ll be honest, I pick and chose the cheeses at random, but one that was phenomenal was the wild garlic Cornish yarg. In the photo above, you’ll see a block on the bottom right wrapped in something dark. Well, it’s wrapped in wild garlic. If you’re a garlic head like me, you’ll love this! And with an additional 3 GBP, I added a fig jam spread (my favorite!) and some linseed crackers, and I was completely sorted for a quiet dinner at 18 GBP!

Parks and Gardens around Cheltenham town

I mentioned earlier that Cheltenham has a lot of lovely green space for little strolls and people watching. Armed with a latte from the Clementine Cafe, I went around the parks and gardens, found a bench, and sat enjoying my afternoon. Spring was on the verge of blooming, so I bet they’re even lovelier in warmer months! Be sure to check out

• Sanford Park (below right) – take in the wandering foot paths with the Annecy Gardens and Italian Gardens brightening up the park in warmer seasons,
• Imperial Square and Gardens (below left) – located near The Promenade, and planted with thousands of bedding plants for lush floral displays. With Regency architecture surrounding the square and the Garden Bar (in the summer), the best thing you can do is grab a drink and soak in Regency Cheltenham around you!
• Montpelier Gardens – near town center, Montpelier Gardens is mostly divided into two sections – one with tennis courts, a cafe and facilities, and the Gardens Gallery community art gallery. The northern section is more for picnics, walking, sitting, and overall low key hanging out.

With my charcuterie platter in tow, I made my way back to Beechurst Serviced Apartments to coorie in for the evening. If you didn’t want to stay in like me, I’d suggest MUSE Brasserie, Mowgli Street Food, Lumiere (Cheltenham’s newest Michelin Star restaurant), or Purslane Restaurant (known for their sustainably caught seafood!). For those wanting a great cocktail, I’ve heard incredible things about The Alchemist Cheltenham. Those are the ones that kept my attention during my trip research and the ones I’d go back to Cheltenham to visit!

The next morning, I managed to run out for a quick breakfast at WOODKraft before my train. In case anyone was wondering, after a weekend of eating, it was a delectable granola with yogurt and passionfruit. Had I not been rushing out the door to catch my noon train, I would have rounded out the weekend with a quick trip to Gloucester to visit the Gloucester Cathedral, which originally broke ground in 1089! For those Harry Potter fans, the Gloucester Cathedral was used as a filming location for Hogwarts. But alas, train schedules call!

My stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments

Beechurst Serviced Apartments are located in a renovated, grand Victorian farmhouse, just outside of Cheltenham town. There are 5 beautiful and spacious self-catering apartments for you to choose from – four one-bedroom apartments and one studio flat. Owned and operated by Angie and Steve, seasoned veterans of the hospitality industry, Beechurst Serviced Apartments is a family run business. Their previous experience in luxury hotels can be seen in the thoughtful touches around the apartments. There is everything you need to just come in and make it your home for the weekend!

One of the first things you may notice about Beechurst Serviced Apartments when you arrive are the solar panels on its roof. This helps to reduce the building’s energy requirements by almost 40%, which is incredible! That also means that they’ve cut down on single-use amenities to reduce waste, so be sure to pack your bathroom toiletries along with you.

All of the apartments at Beechurst Serviced Apartments are named and decorated after prominent people who came from Cheltenham. For me, it was the Holst Apartment, named after Cheltenham-born Gustav Holst, a composer best known for his orchestral suite, The Planets. Little musical touches were added to the Holst Apartment, keeping in line with the theme.

The Holst Apartment was so comfortable and cozy, and really, such a nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham! Having a full kitchen at your disposal is something that I enjoy, especially when my whole weekend centered around food! I’m not going to lie, I heated up and nibbled on my Bangladeshi curry and delicious samosas as a snack throughout the weekend, and was so grateful for that kitchen!

Despite spending the majority of the brisk weekend outdoor walking and cycling around town, the shower in the Holst Apartment was exactly what I needed – hot and incredibly powerful. Perfect to loosen the muscles and immediately climb into the comfortable bed.

Besides the kitchen and the incredible shower, which are phenomenal amenities, each of the apartments (and studio) has a large, smart TV mounted and a bookshelf with plenty of books to choose from.

Although Beechurst Serviced Apartments sits outside of Cheltenham town center, the bus stop directly outside made going in and out of town super easy. You really don’t need your car for your weekend in Cheltenham, and it’s easy and lovely seeing the sites by bicycle on the Regency Cycle Trail. But if you want to use Cheltenham as a launchpad for a wee getaway in the Cotswolds, then your car will come in handy!

Whether you’re looking for a foodie weekend getaway or a short break to “take in the waters”, Beechurst Serviced Apartments make for a wonderful base for a weekend getaway in Cheltenham!

Parting Thoughts on my Foodie Weekend in Cheltenham

WOW – I could have never expected that Cheltenham was so delicious!! Prior to visiting Cheltenham, I had no idea that it had such a strong, historical South Asian connection that is still very much alive in its cuisine! Foodies will definitely not want to miss the HorseChoux Pastry, which pays homage to the annual Cheltenham Festival and races.

From Sri Lankan street food to the UK’s oldest Bangladeshi restaurant on one end, to some of the best local charcuterie from one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, the Cheltenham food scene encompasses a lovely mix of historical, traditional and local. The fun and vibrant culinary scene continues to expand with restaurants and cocktail bars being recognized by outsiders more and more.

Staying at Beechurst Serviced Apartments was perfect for me with easy access into town and all the homely touches I needed for a weekend away.

To conclude, my weekend in Cheltenham was a wonderful escape for anyone looking for a little bit of history along with a culinary adventure. Whether you’re a horse racing fan, a foodie, or just someone who loves exploring new places, Cheltenham has something for everyone. With its charming streets, picturesque gardens, and mouth-watering food, you’ll fall in love with Cheltenham in no time. Cheltenham is easily accessible as a weekend getaway from London (or even further afield like Glasgow)! It’s a town that will steal your heart and leave you yearning for more!

For other foodie adventures around the UK, feel free to check out:

• a love letter to Shetland I wrote after visiting to explore their food culture;
• a foodie adventure around Edinburgh, exploring the Scottish capital with haggis, whisky, and all the greats of Scottish cuisine;
• a delectable food and whisky pairing hosted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Planning your trip to Cheltenham

1. How to get to Cheltenham?

• Cheltenham Spa Station is accessible from London Paddington on GWR, which only takes 2 hours with no changes.
• There are also direct trains to Cheltenham Spa from if you’re coming from Manchester Picadilly (2 hr) and Birmingham New Street (45 min).
• For all available trains into Cheltenham Spa

2. Ideas for things to do in Cheltenham and best places to eat in Cheltenham

• Join the Regency Cycle Trail with Compass Holidays and see the historic town on 2-wheels!
• Explore Cheltenham on a self-guided 90-minute audio tour of historic Cheltenham town at your own pace! For only 5.56 GBP / 7 USD, you get a Blue Badge tourist guide accessible any time through an easy app. Click for your self-guided tour of Cheltenham!
• For something a little funner and different, go on a scavenger hunt through town and explore Cheltenham that way! Great for groups and families!
• Stroll around town and enjoy the variety of street art and sculptures!
• Soak in the waters at Cheltenham’s spas – the Greenway Hotel & Spa and the DoubleTree by Hilton Cheltenham are considered the best!

Cheltenham also has a variety of afternoon tea services, which is on point for Regency Cheltenham. I wanted to go and enjoy afternoon tea, but alas – other food called 😉

• The Queen’s Hotel, The Regency Tea Rooms, Malmaison, Once Upon a Tea Room, and No. 131 Restaurants are the afternoon tea in Cheltenham that came up most during my research.
• Or, for a completely different spin on afternoon tea, (for you sushi lovers) Kibou has a Japanese-inspired afternoon tea that I really wanted to try! But alas, next time.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Given the current situation in Myanmar, I cannot recommend making any travel plans to this country. Please refer to your government’s travel safety guidelines ahead of making any travel plans.

This time, 2019, I would be in Yangon for several days. Armed with what will henceforth be known as “Elelta and Dana’s Yangon Foodie Guide,” I tasted a variety of Burmese cuisine, from ethnic Wa foods to foods from the Shan state, to traditional Chinese food (from Myanmar’s large Chinese diaspora!). I tried it all, with a variety of cocktails and tropical fruit juices to wash it down with.

So behold.

The Dana and Elelta Yangon Foodie Guide

Brief Introduction to Elelta and Dana, and the Yangon Foodie Guide

As part of my insane travel schedule/life, in November 2019, I traveled from Afghanistan to the Maldives. And by December, I had to be in Austria for graduation. Where to fill the time, with the world as my oyster?

Of the people I have met through my life in Kabul, three of them had or now have connections to Myanmar. Two of the three lived and worked there previously. And though I didn’t know it at the time, but a third would be moving there by the end of 2019. The choice of Yangon literally went like this:

L: We could do Yangon.
There’s a little more character than BKK (Bangkok)

D: Waaaaay more character.
And I do really love Yangon
For a long weekend we can eat well and go to some cute places

Dana was all for picking Yangon. But what about Elelta? I didn’t know it at the time, but when asked to pick a country that you felt had impacted you the most, Elelta chose Myanmar, because of her experiences from living there before. Mine? Cook Islands. Someone else? Lebanon. Another? Yemen. Ya, we are a diverse group of humans. All gathered together in Afghanistan, of all places. Back to Yangon before I get too nostalgic..

The idea for a long weekend in Yangon was born out of the promise of eating well and the hope of being positively impacted for life.

And that is the premise behind the creation of the Yangon Foodie Guide. Without further ado…

1. Rangoon Tea House (RTH)

As I was thinking of how to describe the Rangoon Tea House, or RTH to the expat community, the phrase “grand dame” of Yangon restaurants kept popping into my head. Although it’s probably not an apt description in technicality, that’s what I want to call it. The Grand Dame of Yangon.

When I was in Yangon, I visited the Rangoon Tea House twice, at different times of the day. And both times, it was completely packed to the brim. There is also an upstairs bar/seating area (where the restrooms are) but I never saw them seat anyone in that section.

As a Yangon Foodie, doesn’t this look delicious?

Please allow me to introduce the utter delightful dishes I ate at RTH. Yes. This is one person’s consumption – no judgment.

• Soft-shelled crab bao – absolutely delicious. It combines two things I love – soft shell crabs and baos. For me, it wasn’t a knife and fork action, but a “take a huge bite and hope for the best” method.
• Nan Gyi – thick rice noodles, with crispy (shrimp, I think) chips and shredded chicken. Because of the curry paste (I think), it was a little dry, similar to the dry like peanut butter. However, the order comes with a little bowl of broth or consomme to wash it down. You can order it with either chicken or fish cakes.
• The famous pennywort salad (myin kwa ywet thoke) – this was probably my absolutely favorite thing at RTH! Pennywort is a leafy vegetable uncommon to western cuisine, which I have rarely encountered in my food adventures. The salad was absolutely delightful, and the crispy shallots on top were to die for. The lime added a light and refreshing touch to it. I ordered this both times I went to RTH – it’s that good!
• Grilled pork neck – for someone who has been living in a Muslim country and thus deprived of pork, this grilled pork neck was quite possibly one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten – period! Tender, fragrant and grilled to perfection! Described on the menu as “200g tender pork neck marinated overnight in tea leaf tapenade, grilled over an open fire” 6500 ks | $4.40 USD
• The BFF dessert – right when you enter RTH, there is a large display counter of all of their desserts. Do yourself a favor and get one!! They are delicious. The BFF comes highly recommended!
• Salted caramel brownie with vanilla ice cream – Ok, really… could this ever go wrong??? No. It was a little too big for one person, given all that I had eaten already. But REALLY. GOOD. 7500 ks | $5 USD

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but recommended by the Yangon Foodie Guide: banana blossom salad!)

Unfortunately, I cannot find a good version of the menu online, so I could only include the prices for the grilled pork neck and the brownie. Ironically, the brownie was probably the most expensive thing that I ordered, at 7500 ks. Also, I think RTH is classed as a $$$ restaurant in most lists. As an expat, and given the long list of things I ordered above, (and if you add in cocktails, which I hear are great at RTH) you could probably easily spend $15-20 USD at RTH.

Rangoon Tea House: Ultimate decision: absolutely worth it and amazing! For foodies and non-foodies alike! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

2. Root Kitchen and Bar

Root is a delightful “ethnic Wa” restaurant, located in the 5th ward of downtown Yangon. The Wa people are an ethnic group who live primarily in northern Myanmar (in parts of Shan and Kachin States) and Yunnan, China. The food at ROOT is a wonderful blend of modern and traditional flavors, and their cocktail menu, fun and exciting. The food is also intended to be served tapas/family-style, so everyone can try some of each dish. However, being the solo traveler that I am, that just means I’ll still order a bunch and eat it all. Behold – my first Wa experience!

• Grilled pork belly (Regular order) – The first thing that came out was this amazing grilled pork belly. So tender and expertly grilled. 5500 ks | $3.75 USD
• Wa Tang Clan cocktail – How could you not order a cocktail with this name? Not to be confused with the Wu Tang Clan, the WA Tang Clan is Gold Rum, cinnamon syrup, lemon, ginger, and ginger ale. Deliciously made. I want to go back and try more of their cocktails! 7000 ks | $4.75 USD
• Stir fry beef with bamboo shoots – I think if I had to rank each of these dishes at ROOT, this may be my least favorite, although it was still really delicious! I think the bamboo shoots were slightly pickled and had a bit of a sour taste. Maybe you don’t know, but I am not a huge fan of pickles or pickling. But I am a huge fan of bamboo. For me, I guess what I wanted was regular bamboo shoots and beef. But alas. Still really good, and worth a try! 6500 ks | $4.40 USD
• Stir fry green beans with minced pork – This is just a classic dish in many ethnic Chinese cuisines. Very rarely can a restaurant mess up a green beans and pork. Classic and nostalgic. 5000 ks | $3.40 USD

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but recommended by the Yangon Foodie Guide: moik! Moik is made from brown rice, and is like a “Wa risotto”. The pumpkin moik or beef or pork were specifically recommended. The Wa people eat three different kindsm of moik: dry, wet and soupy. ROOT mainly serves the wet moik.)

ROOT was definitely one of my favorites too. My only regret was that I didn’t have more meals in Yangon in order to go and try more different Wa foods. I loved everything I ate, but especially that grilled pork belly and Wa Tang Clan cocktail!

The regular menu can be found here. There is also a “visual menu” found here, which also provides an introduction to the Wa peoples and cuisine.

ROOT: Ultimate decision: So, so good! and fun to try a new cuisine! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

3. Xi Yang Yang Xiao Long Bao – 喜洋洋小籠包

Anyone who knows me, knows that Xiao Long Bao (or “XLB” as seasoned connoisseurs will call it) are probably my all time favorite thing to eat. Din Tai Fung (the famous Taiwanese franchise) is an age-old favorite. Wherever there is a Din Tai Fung, there will be a Lannie eating an XLB and a pork-chop fried rice. Now, XLBs are obviously not Burmese cuisine, but rather Shanghaiese in nature. The Chinese diaspora brings the XLB to Yangon. Right now, the ethnic Chinese population in Myanmar stands at about 30-40% of the population. So, it’s not totally out of left field that a Chinese restaurant makes it onto the Yangon Foodie Guide.

Before I go into the food, I wanted to comment on the first photo of just the table settings. You’ll see that the bowls, tea cup, and plate are all covered in plastic wrap. Though wasteful, it’s supposed to denote that these bowls have been expertly sanitized for your clean eating experience. This is very typical in Asia and you’ll come across this in many different countries.

I have so many questions about this. Does this mean that they outsource all of their dishes to a company to wash and then wrap up? Or do they have a wrapping machine in the back that washes and wraps? If you’re going to wash it yourself, do you need to wrap it? So many questions.. But I digress, and onward to the food!

• Beef noodle soup – I ordered this because of nostalgia. I have very fond memories of regular, if not weekly, beef noodle soups when I was in college. Beef noodle soup is also a favorite meal in Taiwan, where I spent a lot of time in my youth. This one at Xi Yang Yang did not disappoint! Served with thick noodles typical to a beef noodle soup, and with flavors reminiscent of my past. I don’t know how much this cost, but it should be fairly reasonable.
• The Xiao Long Bao – pork soup dumplings. For me, the general rule of thumb is, if there are soup dumplings on the menu, don’t faff around and try ones with different flavors – i.e shrimp, crab, truffle, whatever. You name it, I’ve probably tried it and felt disappointed by it haha. Go for the classic pork. The XLB has two main components to grade the experience on: the soup and the skin. There needs to be an adequate amount of soup. The soup cannot have dried up or been lost due to a puncture in the dumpling skin. I am happy to say that not only was there adequate soup, which was extremely flavorful, but the dumpling skin also maintained its integrity throughout the eating experience. This is a bold thing to say, but I feel comfortable in saying this – on par with Din Tai Fung. 2000 ks | $1.35 USD for 4 pcs, 4000 ks | $2.70 USD for 8 pcs.

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but things I would have liked to try: pork chop fried rice, scallion pancakes, black sesame buns! Sounds great, doesn’t it?)

Xi Yang Yang was everything that I wanted out of a nostalgic Chinese meal, full of all of my favorites.

Sincerely, someone who has gone around the world and tasted tons of beef noodle soups and xiao long baos in their day.

Xi Yang Yang: Ultimate decision: Get yourself there immediately! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

4. Shan Yoe Yar

Shan Yoe Yar is a restaurant specializing in ethnic Shan cuisine. The Shan people are part of the Tai ethnic group, based in South China and Southeast Asian. The Shan mostly reside in the Shan State, but also in the Mandalay Region, Kachin and Kayin States in Myanmar. Outside of Myanmar, the Shan people inhabit communities in Thailand, Laos, India, and south China.

Shan Yoe Yar has multiple locations, including its original one housed in a renovated teak house in the Lanmadaw district of Yangon. I went to the location in Sule Plaza, due to its close proximity to the Sule Pagoda. If you go to the Sule Pagoda for vibrant sunset, it’s only a 5 minute walk to Sule Plaza for a nice dinner at Shan Yoe Yar. Tourism and food in one!

When I walked into Shan Yoe Yar at Sule Plaza (a shopping mall in downtown), I was excited to order a famous Shan noodles. I had tried them previously, at 999 Shan Noodles and liked it. I looked all over the menu at Shan Yoe Yar and did not see it. When my server finally arrived, I asked about it, and apparently there is a breakfast menu where the noodles are! Shan people typically eat their Shan noodles for breakfast, but is also eaten at any time of day. Makes sense! Now, with both menus, I was ready to go.

• Shan Noodles (khao swe) – thin rice noodles with chicken or pork, cooked in tomatoes, which is served either dry or with broth (soup). I got the dry version, which came with soup on the side. However, it’s not dry as you would think. It’s still sopping in broth, and by the time you start to eat it, the rice noodles have absorbed a lot of the flavor of the broth. Delicious!
• Chinese kai lan with stir fried pork rinds – this dish was just ok. I was in the mood for a large veggie dish, and that certainly fit the bill! The pork rinds added a nice salty flavor but I thought the texture distracted from it. I’d never eaten cooked pork rinds before and the crispiness turns into a sogginess.

I washed all of this down with a delightful papaya juice. If I had more time, more meals available or more stomach, I would have loved to try a smattering of other dishes. I think perhaps with the kai lan, I just chose wrong. It’s also possible that dining at the original location in the teak house would have been more of an experience than a restaurant inside a shopping mall. All things to consider for the future! I could find a copy of the English menu online, but this restaurant would be in the $$-$$$ range.

Shan Yoe Yar: Ultimate decision: Try it out and go to the teak house for an experience! Go with friends and try more dishes and report back. ⭐⭐⭐ 1/2

5. Sarkies Bar at the Strand Hotel

If RTH is the Grand Dame of Yangon, the Strand Hotel would be the male equivalent. I present to you, the Major Domo of Yangon – The Strand Hotel. Built in 1901, this Victorian-hotel was once the most luxurious, opulent hotel in the British empire. If I were going to the hotel back in the day, I would not be allowed in because I am non-white. The luxury was originally intended only for white clientele. Thankfully we are living in the 21st century now.

The Yangon Foodie Guide also includes great cocktails.

It was a hot, Burmese afternoon when I walked into Sarkies Bar at the Strand Hotel. You come in from off the streets, where the street vendors sell fruit and street snacks, and the sun beats down on you. You’re transported from hot Yangon, to an air conditioned, Victorian hotel of yesteryear. It was quiet and empty for the afternoon, and perfect for a cocktail. I had arrived during happy hour, so there was a selection of cocktails for $7 USD.

I chose the Strand Sour, which sounded like it’s signature cocktail. Mandalay rum, lime, sugar and bitter. Absolutely refreshing!

Sarkies Bar: Ultimate decision: Luxurious, opulent, and likely expensive outside of happy hour. The Strand Sour was fantastic though! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

6. Sofaer & Co

Back in 1906, the Sofaer & Co building was commissioned by the son of an Iraqi immigrant to Yangon and served as a center for commerce during its time. It was renovated in 2016 and converted into a restaurant named after its original name. The ceramic tiles are particularly special, a geometric pattern of green, gold, burnt sienna and lapis lazuli, shipped directly from Manchester, UK, at the time of construction. The steel beams supporting the ceiling come from Lanarkshire Steel Company in Scotland. Pretty cool, isn’t it? What kind of restaurant would a building named “Sofaer & Co” house? Mekong-fusion cuisine. I was super excited to try this!

When I arrived at Sofaer, I promptly ordered a Pansodan Old Fashion, 7000 ks | $4.75 USD. The first one I ordered is on the left. Is it just me or does it look like water with a little orange coloring in it? I complained and got a second one. Though still watered down, it was better. For $4.75 USD, I wasn’t going to complain a third time, and decided to just go find a proper cocktail when I was done.

I heard a story that the restaurateur’s mother used to be a bun cha street vendor in Hanoi. That made me even more excited, despite drinking water and whisky while waiting for my food. Vietnamese food (especially bun cha) is one of my favorite cuisines, which I do not get enough of while living on the go!

• Morning glory salad – I love morning glory as a vegetable. It’s also known as water spinach (or kangkong) and very popular in Asian cuisine. This salad had a very generous portion of beef and an oversized shrimp chip that came with it. It was good, flavorful. But a little too meaty for something that I wanted as a salad.
• Bun Cha – Most times I walk into a Vietnamese restaurant, I will order some bun cha and possibly some egg rolls. Although I hadn’t had bun cha in over a year at this point, I hoped it would be phenomenal, but it was just average. And while average bun cha isn’t bad, it was a disappointment considering I hadn’t had it for so long.
• Mango sticky rice – I was really looking forward to this mango sticky rice. I flew through Bangkok on my way to Yangon, and usually when I am in the Bangkok airport, I buy a mango sticky rice to go. But I was so exhausted from my flight, I didn’t manage to this time. So Sofaer for the win! Right? Wrong. I expected some coconut milk drizzle on the sticky rice, but it was dry, which made the actual sticky rice flavorless. With most foods, I don’t like a lot of sauces or drizzle, but come on. Mango sticky rice has to have the coconut drizzle. and lots of it! Disappointment…

This was the most disappointing meal that I had during my time in Yangon. From the watered down old fashion, to the meaty salad, and the underwhelming mango sticky rice.

Sofaer & Co: Ultimate decision: Skip this, but maybe stop by to see the old building ⭐1/2

7. Gekko

If you went to Sofaer & Co and wound up disappointed as I did, fear not. Gekko, a Japanese restaurant known for its yakitori grill and cocktail lounge, is on the other side of the Sofaer building (and around the corner). Luckily, you can marvel at the ceramic tiles from Manchester and the steel beams from Scotland in a trendy new setting, while drinking a delightful cocktail.

When I came to Gekko, during their happy hour, I really just wanted a snack and a cocktail. I promptly ordered two salmon hand rolls (unpictured) and a Hanami old fashioned for 4000 ks $2.72. I rounded out the evening with a dram of Kirin Whisky’s Oak Master. It was nice…but I like my scotches better. (… is that the plural of scotch? scotchs? ..)

I bet the yakitori there is great too. Just based on my limited experience of salmon rolls and whisky cocktails, I still really enjoyed it.

Gekko: Ultimate decision: Really fun place with great drinks and sushi! ⭐⭐⭐⭐

8. Babett at Hotel G

When I was in Yangon, I stayed downtown at the Hotel G. The hotel stay was great but also so was the restaurant downstairs. From the expat community, I hear Babett is the place to go to for a nice brunch. I had breakfasts covered in my stay, so I never tried their actual brunch service. But I can say from just my regular hotel breakfasts and my lunch at Babett when I first arrived, the food is delicious!

• Mohinga – Generally considered the national dish of Myanmar, Although normally a breakfast food, hawker or street stalls everywhere serve Mohinga throughout the day. Because I had my mohinga at a hotel breakfast, it would of course be a little different than the street variety. At its core, mohinga is fish soup and chickpea flour. I loved how the chickpea flour thickens up the fish broth and gives a little cushion to mute the fishy flavor. The rice vermicelli also soak up the broth, which give the noodles this wonderful flavor and richness. I loved the fried fritters on top to add a crunchiness and texture to the noodles.

It is served with rice vermicelli, dressed and garnished with fish sauce, a squeeze of lime, crisp fried onions, coriander, spring onions, crushed dried chillis, and, as optional extras, crisp fried fritters such as split chickpeas (pè gyaw) (ပဲကြော်),^[2]urad dal (baya gyaw) (ဘယာကြော်) or gourd (bu thee gyaw) (ဗူးသီးကြော်) or sliced pieces of Chinese donuts (အီကြာ‌ကွေး), as well as boiled egg and fried nga hpè fish cake (ငါးဖယ်ကြော်).

From Wikipedia’s description of Mohinga

• Please note that mohinga is not served on the regular or brunch menu, and is only available as a breakfast option for hotel guests. However, I wanted to introduce you to mohinga (the national dish) and give you an option for western dining. I don’t need to introduce my carbonara pasta and grilled asparagus (or provide a rating for it), which I had ordered off of the regular menu at Babett. But just a quick comment to say it was delicious and if I needed a solid western meal, Babett is the place to go for it.

9. Allamanda Inn

Numbers 1-8 on the Foodie Guide have all been vetted and eaten by yours truly. For this entry, the recipient of the original Foodie Guide, stayed at the Allamanda Inn and has kindly offered a photo and review, in the form of a haiku.

#YangonFoodieReviewHaiku

The steak at the Inn,

that is named Allamanda,

is okay. Thumbs Up.

-A

So, in case people are wondering about the description – why “okay”? why “thumbs up”? The answer is simple – really amazing, great steaks are rare and expensive. “Okay” steaks, on the other hand, are plentiful. But especially when you are an expat living in Southeast Asia, a steak deemed as just “okay” is in fact a “thumbs up.” It’s pretty darn good and was never going to be earth shattering. (I hear). But also, the review in haiku form is a nod to our dear friend who is currently championing the hashtag #humanitarianhaiku on Twitter.

Besides the steak, Elelta noted Allamanda’s great tagines and salads. While this review will not have a rating in the end, come for the steak (or salads), stay for the delightful garden. And see if you can come up with a better #YangonFoodieReviewHaiku for Allamanda. It’ll be fun, trust us!

10. All others I did not try, but are included in the Yangon Foodie Guide:

Both Dana and Elelta inundated me with so many food recommendations that I could not eat all of them in the time span of 4 days! The below are some places that I did not have time to try, but were included in the original guide. These locations are mostly outside of downtown Yangon, and are included in the Google Map below.

• Sharky’s – an artisan-based restaurant, which promotes local and organic foods, with locations in Yangon and Bagan! I visited the Bagan location years ago and the was really delicious and fresh. There are several locations in Yangon, including one next door to Rangoon Tea House! Be like Elelta and go for ice cream at Sharky’s on Sundays!
• Yangon Bake House – Elelta specifically recommended this bakery, as she used to live near this shop and it would be her weekend breakfast joint. Yangon Bake House also supports women’s initiatives, giving apprentice opportunities to empower women with disabilities.
• Onyx Wine Tree – despite the name, this is a Korean steak house!
• Cask 81 – a whiskey bar with great reviews and a shred of lingering regret that I didn’t visit! (Cask 81 is currently in the process of relocating. Check the link for updates on their progress!)
• Fuji – Elelta describes it as the place for sushi in Yangon, whereas Dana’s description places the caveat on being “for sushi in Yangon”. Wherever the emphasis, this (or Gekko during happy hour) would be your sushi fix.

Parting Thoughts

Firstly, a general comment about service in Yangon. You’re better off if you recognize that the service industry is still in its infancy, and make efforts to proactively flag down servers whenever you need something. Don’t wait – you may be waiting forever.

All in all, Yangon is a delicious destination. I think that Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, the obvious culinary powerhouses in the Mekong region, tend to overshadow Burmese cuisine and Myanmar as a foodie destination. But the food and cocktail scene in Yangon is going through a renaissance and I cannot wait to go back and try more food!

Are you a Yangon Foodie, but want an organized food tour instead? With an exclusive discount?!

Exclusive discount for blog readers:
5% for 1-2 travelers,
10% for 3-4 travelers.
Use discountcode
5%YFTviaLannie for 1-2 persons & 10%YFTviaLannie for 3-4 persons.
Valid for Yangon Food Tours, Manadalay Food Tours, and their bamboo bike and motorbike tours.

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Looking for a place to stay in Yangon?

Look no further than Hotel G, a wonderful boutique hotel in downtown Yangon! Click below to read a review, and click here to book!

Disclosure: Please note that the above booking link in this post is an affiliate link and if you go through them to make a hotel booking, I will earn a commission. I share these links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a booking through these links.

Need some ideas on things to do in Yangon?

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Acknowledgements

I would not have made this Foodie Guide were it not for Dana and Elelta, the authors of the guide, and Anthony, the original recipient of the guide. As a travel blogger, I find inspiration everywhere, including from those nearest to me. No clue who these people are? I introduce them in this post. Enjoy or dislike the food highlighted in our guide? Leave a comment for Elelta and Dana! or me!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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