A Michelin Green Star differs from a “normal” Michelin Star, as it awards places that combine their gastronomic creativity with commitment to sustainability practices. You’ll see from the tasting menu that sustainability is more than just a fad – Chef Pam Brunton is fully committed to zero waste and the exciting culinary options that offers. But not only that, Chef Pam fully utilizes the local community in crafting her menu or stocking the bothies with delightful amenities. For the only Michelin Green Star in Scotland, Inver’s commitment to sustainability can be seen everywhere.

1. My second stay at Inver

Experiencing something in the dark and cold winter and then again in spring is such a night-to-day juxtaposition that I wasn’t ready for. Sure, I knew that my stay would be comfortable and cozy, but with sunshine, it was a completely different type of comfy and cozy!

This time, with more daylight hours, the bothy was bright and open with lovely views. I spent lots of time sitting at the window enjoying the slow calm over Loch Fyne, with Nina Simone on the record player.

The bothy is thoughtfully stocked with a homemade beeswax lotion balm and artisan lavender body oil from Ciara Gilmartin, who locally forages the plants for her salves and balms. The body oil is a lush treat after soaking in the bothy’s bathtub. There’s also a little bottle of schnapps, for starting or winding down your evening.

There’s a few hours between check in and dinner, so I grabbed my hiking boots and went for a stroll out to the old castle.

2. Go for a walk around Castle Lachlan

One of the things you’ll notice when you arrive to Inver are the views of old Castle Lachlan. The ruined castle was built in 1314, likely for Clan Maclachlan who ruled the area. The stone exterior is the only substantial remaining part of the castle, but it’s still good for a wander and a poke around.

Especially if the weather is nice, I can highly recommend the Old Castle Lachlan and Chapel Trail on AllTrails+. The trail basically starts at Inver and takes you along the shores of Loch Fyne to the castle and a chapel, with breathtaking views over the loch. The terrain is fine, and is doable with regular shoes, but you never know if there was rain the day or night before making the ground soggy. I’d rather not take the chance, and the quick change into hiking boots is always a smart idea.

Don’t worry – You won’t get lost (you can see Inver almost the whole time). It’s the perfect leg stretch after the drive to Inver, and possibly to work up an appetite for your dinner ahead!

3. Drinks and Amuse Bouche at Inver

Prior to the evening’s meal, you’ll be invited to have cocktails in the extremely cozy lounge. Super cozy in the winter with a roaring fire, and still super cozy on a brisk spring evening.

For the amuse bouche, a tray of 4 items was brought out. Starting from the oyster, and going counter-clockwise,

• Oyster & sea buckthorn oil – what a lush and fatty oyster!
• Squid & pickled spruce – personally wasn’t a huge fan of the texture (squid can be rubbery)
• Crab & barley bannock – a bannock is a Scottish type of flatbread, so this was made with barley, topped with crab. WOW – so savory and umami. Delicious!
• Grey mullet & blood orange – local fish ceviche, held in a citrusy crispy fish skin! Light and crisp and wonderful! Inver’s commitment to zero waste means they’re definitely not tossing the fish skin. Loved that it was fish skin chip used to house the ceviche!

4. Inver Tasting Menu

When I had finished my drinks and interesting amuse bouche, I was invited into the dining room. Not sure why, but I tend to eat earlier than almost everyone else, and therefore had the dining room to myself. Maybe I do that on purpose to have a few more quiet moments, not sure. In March, at least, it was a lovely idea to dine earlier, since I could watch the gorgeous sun set over the loch during the meal. And boy was it a stunning sunset!

I actually popped outside for a moment in between courses to enjoy the views. It is, after all, part of the dining experience.

– Garden plate

To start, don’t let this extremely simple looking plate confuse you, it was packed with flavor and interesting texture! The kale and Jerusalem artichokes come from Kate’s garden down the road.

I love that the waitress referred to her as just “Kate.” Who is Kate? She’s the one who grows these delicious vegetables and lives just down the road. It’s not a nameless random supplier, it’s not a corporation, it’s just Kate.

Think of this as a baby and a mature set of artichokes on the left and kale (and kalette) on the right. This course is meant to be eaten with your hands, dipping the vegetables in the smear up top. The stand outs in this course was the baby artichokes, incredibly light and crispy. The other artichokes, pureed and pressed between two thin pieces of artichoke – with a surprise umami burst of miso mayo!

– Bread & butter broth

No photo of the bread and butter broth, but you’ll forgive me – it makes an appearance in the IG reel at the end of the post.

The bread at Inver is made in-house with Scottish grains, which is milled into flour downstairs. The butter is home-churned butter. Leftover sourdough ends of the bread are soaked into a broth with brown butter and yeast bubbles. And the result is an surprisingly flavorful “bread broth” to cleanse the palette and to open your senses for the courses to come.

I love that the grain is milled downstairs, and that they’re using the bread-ends instead of throwing them away! Love that the zero-waste ethos extends to bread! But not only that, the bread broth was stunningly delicious – savory and umami, you’d never know it was made from leftover bread!

– Scallop & langoustine, broccoli, & blackcurrant leaf

Pickled herring with Loch Fyne scallops and langoustine, with crispy potatoes for texture, and a sea-herb smoked mussel emulsion (with black current leaf oil) poured over.

Loved all the fresh herbs – it was creamy and light and crisp, with the minty parsley reduction. And somewhere inside, some hidden herring roe that I had to ask about. Herring is a sustainable fish, whereas sturgeon* (where caviar comes from) is not sustainable. But you really wouldn’t be able to tell that you’re eating herring roe versus caviar. The burst of flavor from the herring roe was a wonderful surprise!

Note on the sustainability of sturgeon: wild caught sturgeon, ironically, is NOT sustainable, because there are numbers are very low, giving rise to illegal fisheries. Farmed caviar is MUCH better in terms of sustainability. – Marine Conservation Society: Good Fish Guide

– Celeriac, brown crab & apple

Ok, I’m not going to lie – this was my least favorite course. They can’t all be the best, can they? This was a celeriac terrine with brown crab rare bits and white crab, with a white asparagus sauce. There was also apple and pears diced up with the white crab.

Honestly I’m not huge on the taste and flavors of celeriac and white asparagus specifically, so that’s probably it. But everyone’s palette is different, so maybe you’d enjoy it!

– Newmiln Farm pork & celery

The pork main course brought back a little memory from when I was waiting to check in earlier – I saw that pig cheeks were offered on the day’s lunch menu. While I lusted after that with serious FOMO, I remembered about Inver’s “use every part of the animal” ethos, I knew (and seriously hoped) that pork would show up on the evening’s menu, and it did!

The pork was served in 4 different cuts and styles with pickled alexanders and celery. The whole pig came from Newmiln Farms, an organic farm in Perthshire. The exquisite quatro of pork was – the loin, collar (copper), belly, sausage, with a fennel and dill sauce. Absolutely delicious!! My favorite had to be the collar, which was sooooo tender and juicy!

– surprise dessert

First of all, any place that gives you surprise desserts deserves a place in my heart. Let’s be real. I truly loved that there was a surprise dessert and even more so that it was pink! (only my favorite color!)

I remember the surprise dessert was delicious, with interesting textures. Here are the notes I took from that night, which makes little sense to me now, but from what I can surmise, it must have been blood orange flavored 😉

• bee pollen and blood orange,
• candied blood orange peel,
• blood orange sorbet with crunchy bits.
• (a side note that I obviously forgot to ask about) were the crunchy bits the bee pollen?

But unfortunately, I can’t really remember – was it a mousse? Was it a puffy meringue? And really, what were the crunchy bits? Did the bee pollen have a taste or flavor?

Apologies that I can’t recall, so I guess it’ll be a surprise for you as well!

– Pear, walnut & ginger

Poached pears with a walnutty, gingery ice cream to top it off. Normally, ginger wouldn’t be my first dessert palette taste to choose, but take note – it was very gingery! But nice! But more importantly, I loved the walnut flavor, which went so well with the pears and ginger. Walnuts are frequently ignored for cooler nuts and often downgraded as a sprinkling on salads or inside banana breads. But, I’m here to tell you, the walnut flavor is incredible and just the thing you didn’t know you needed!

– Petite Fours

To close out the meal, (sort of) petite fours and a single espresso for yours truly. On the left, a sea lettuce cocoa saba tart and a fluffy delicious madeleine on the right.

For the sea lettuce cocoa saba tart – a few things to note: I’m guessing the tart casing was made from foraged sea lettuce nearby. Saba is a syrupy wine byproduct that tastes of rich raisins and plums. It gave the tart a distinctly tart flavoring, helping to balance the cocoa nibs.

Madeleines are simply one of my favorites things to come out of France. And of course, Inver’s madeleine was a warm and fluffy perfection to end to the distinctly wonderful evening.

5. Picnic Breakfast at Inver Restaurant & Rooms

After a cozy evening in the bothy that included a hot bath with some Nina Simone on the record player, I was excited for the last part of my stay – the Inver picnic breakfast. They provided a breakfast menu in the bothy, and before dinner, I had ticked off all my selections for the morning. And this time, now that it wasn’t winter any longer, I could eat my breakfast with a view, and the sun shining down over the loch.

For you early birds, don’t worry – if you need coffee or tea before breakfast delivery times, there are both (along with a kettle) in the bothy. So, out of everything, what did I end up getting?

• of course, the porridge bread, inver butter & rhubarb jam,
• boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt,
• cheese & butter bun (Rainton Tomme – a semi-hard cheese, thyme & sumac) OMG. Buns like this are my weakness. Especially a cheesy and buttery one! Rainton Tomme is a raw milk cheese from the all organic Rainton Farm down in Dumfries & Galloway. Rainton Farm follows an ethical dairy model, and you’ll be pleased to know they focus on “treating the animals, the land, our environment and the people who work here with respect and kindness”. I would expect nothing less from anyone that supplies to Inver honestly!
• Inver potted pork rillettes – not knowing what pork rillettes were, I obviously ordered this. While I would say it’s similar to pate, the texture is chunkier and courser than a smooth pate. Traditionally, pork rillettes are made from either pork belly or pork shoulder. And honestly, I’d be willing to bet that the pork came from the same organic black pig that we were treated to at dinner. The pork rillettes were perfect to spread over the sourdough bread. What a flavor!
• Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
• and of course, orange juice and coffee.

The perfect bothy picnic breakfast with a view!

6. Parting Thoughts on Inver Restaurant & Rooms

WOW. Just WOW. What an absolutely stunning of an experience – the meal, the stay, the views – all of it exceeded my wildest expectations! I already had high expectations given my wonderful stay a few months prior. However, finally getting to experience the full Inver tasting menu was beyond anything I could have imagined!

The sustainability ethos can be found almost everywhere on Inver’s menus, and from talking to their wonderful wait staff, you can tell sustainability serves more than just lip service here. They all truly believe in the local community behind the ingredients and the zero waste practices that fuel Inver’s creativity.

Chef Pam and her partner Rob have created an incredible oasis of culinary excitement far from any city or urban area in Scotland.

It’s the perfect getaway that includes a short hike, cocktails, Nina Simone and a bath – and a truly exquisite tasting menu to dazzle your taste buds.

And to me, all that adds up to absolute perfection.

This time, I didn’t get a chance to say hello to Chef Pam and Rob, as they were away for a family gathering. But given that it was a highly anticipated return, I sent them a note about the incredible stay afterwards. I sincerely look forward to the next time I can visit Inver – it is truly wonderful and memorable!

With that, my dear friends and readers, I bid you adieu!

7. Information on booking your stay at Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located: 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh
Accessible by public transportation? No.

Dining at Inver is open to non-residents for both lunch and dinner, depending on the day of the week. Monday to Wednesday, Inver exclusively serves dinners to guests staying at Inver. From Thursday to Sunday, Inver opens to both guests and non-residents. Lunches are ala carte, whereas dinner is a 6-course tasting menu.

• Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
• Drink pairing: + 65 GBP per person
• Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
• Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (three have baths)
• Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking.  However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you’re a whisky aficionado or a regular reader of my blog, you may have heard of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (affectionately shortened to SMWS). A membership-based whisky club founded in 1983 by Pip Hills, the society is all about celebrating scotch whisky in all its glory. It’s a great place to connect with like-minded whisky enthusiasts, attend tastings and events, and discover new and exciting whiskies. What’s really great about the Society is that it’s not just about the whisky itself; it’s about the culture and the community that has formed around it.

To read more about Pip’s journey with whisky, check out his book, The Founder’s Tale: A Good Idea and a Glass of Malt.

• If you’re thinking about joining SMWS, get the full breakdown of all the membership benefits!
• and, now is the perfect time to join SMWS! Use promo code: MAVERICK40 and get 40% off your annual membership until March 31, 2023. That makes it only 51 GBP!

Without further ado, onto the first release of the 2023 Limited Edition bottlings!

Maverick 40th Anniversary Bottling

This first bottling pays homage to our maverick whisky pioneer, founder Pip Hills, who’s always pushing the boundaries and exploring new frontiers in the world of single malt. This bold and exciting Speyside malt is aged 12 years, and bottled at 50% ABV. The small batch blends doesn’t get assigned a flavour profile, but if we had to, we’d categorize it with Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits!

From a Speyside single malt sleeping in a refill bourbon hogshead, over to a selection of Spanish oak hogsheads (first fill Oloroso and second-fill PX), the result is a dark and delicious blend, and a true celebration of a sherry cask!

SMWS Tasting Notes:

The aromas of freshly waxed, natural marble floors, mosaics and terrazzo tiles were followed by a fruity scent from apricots, peaches and plums, before a cup of Assam tea and fig, apple and raisin bread pudding joined the party…

For the full tasting notes or if you’ve already decided to purchase this bottle (priced nicely at 65 GBP)… ⤵️

My thoughts:

First nose: gorgeously sweet fruits mixed with some tea (I got the waxed marble floors that the experts did on the second nose, but everbody’s different…)

On the palate, I got some apricots with a richness I couldn’t identify, but there was definitely a tartness that cut through the sweetness in a lovely balance. With a drop of water, it mellowed some of the intense richness and I was left with a beautiful dessert.

Honestly, delicious and complex, I personally loved the blending of the Oloroso and PX sherry casks. But was it a wild, unexpected dram that pushed the boundaries like a Maverick? Not quite to that extreme, but I’ll say the SMWS limited releases are off to a roaring start with the Maverick, and I can’t wait to see what the next release holds!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS 40th Anniversary Releases

These special releases are part of Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s 40th anniversary celebration this year. You may have seen their celebrations kicking off on social media, with members from 13 different countries arriving to the Vaults in Leith to experience and create some tasting notes for some of the special releases this year. (HOW FUN!!!). And although it hasn’t been announced yet, the celebrations will reach its peak at The Gathering (held in September), the annual celebration of whisky, community, and good times.

So, until the next release, let’s all raise a glass to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society on its 40th birthday in the wonderful world of whisky. Sláinte!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

And with Scotland’s incredible larder on their doorstep, there’s no wonder that Inver is globally recognized for their food. In 2021, Inver was awarded the first Michelin Green Star in Scotland. In 2022, Inver retained its Michelin Green Star and on top of that, the National Restaurant Awards awarded Inver the Best Restaurant in Scotland!

The Michelin Green Star is a new designation from Michelin Guide which celebrate the importance of sustainability in gastronomy.

They hold themselves accountable for both their ethical and environmental standards, and work with sustainable producers and suppliers to avoid waste and reduce or even remove plastic and other non-recyclable materials from their supply chain.

What is a Michelin Green Star – Michelin Guide

First rolled out in 2020/2021, Inver is still the only restaurant with a Michelin Green Star in Scotland. Across the UK and Ireland, the vast majority of Michelin Green Star restaurants are in England (27 restaurants), whereas Wales, Ireland, and Scotland each only have one.

Before I continue, I guess I should preface this by saying, this is more of a winter adventure than a foodie adventure. If you want to skip to the good part, check out my full Inver tasting menu experience from March 2023.

1. A Winter’s Tale at Inver

I write this as another “bomb cyclone” just hit the United States… When you book anything in the middle of December, there’s always the chance that a big snowy or cold surprise could derail that. However, typical coastal locations in Argyllshire (Scotland) are usually a few degrees too warm for snow. Rain yes, snow, mm, sometimes.

This also means that coming from Islay, it was raining… which is not unlike your average Monday. Road conditions on the mainland were snowy but pretty good. And luckily, the turn off for Inver was before good ole “Rest and be thankful” on A83 – a section of the road so terrible that it’s a regular source of humor and conversation within the community.

When I arrived at Inver, housed in a former crofter’s cottage, I was taken aback by the stunning views of Old Castle Lachlan and the quiet surrounding the loch. I was met by Rob, who brought me indoors into the bright and cozy lounge. Unfortunately, he and Pam decided to cancel and close for the evening. They tried to phone me and the other guests, but couldn’t reach us. Some pipes in the bothies had burst, and with the drop in temperature forecasted, the narrow, windy country roads were sure to freeze.

Rob explained that the local area usually stays warm enough, being next to the coast, where there is rarely snow or ice. But with a freak winter storm, this was the first time they’d had snow since they took over. To get to Inver, there is a little valley the road cuts through. Within the valley, a little microclimate in itself, the temperatures dip a few degrees colder than the surrounding area. The snow on the ground turns to mush, and with the dip in temperature, the valley would definitely ice over and become the most treacherous local section. Everyone who worked at Inver lived on the other side of the valley. And if they couldn’t prepare something for me for dinner, food was also on the other side of the valley.

When I departed the following morning, the roads were still pretty icy, and I can fully confirm the iced out valley that Rob warned me about!

But, I would have a place to stay that night.

So, with a roaring fire Rob bid me a temporary adieu to figure everything else out.

2. Staying at Inver – my Luxury Bothy

When dining at Inver, you have the option to stay the night in one of a handful of luxury shepherds huts or bothies.  Designed by Pam’s father Rodger, these huts and bothies include large glass windows to bring in ample light in a warm, Scandinavian setting. My bothy came with a bathtub (yessss), a record player (with a collection of records), a table and 2 chairs with a view, and an enormously comfortable bed.  It felt spacious and luxurious. The bothy itself was snug and toasty, despite the cold snap outside.  All I wanted to do was coorie in. 

“Coorie in”: Scots phrase meaning to snuggle in, or to be cozy 

I settled into my seat with the view of Old Castle Lachlan, with my glass of red and some old jazz playing on the record player, toasting all the unexpected things in life.  A few hours later, in what felt like a coordinated “Be Our Guest” delightful whirl, Inver staff danced into the bothy with 2 picnic baskets – one for dinner, one for tomorrow’s breakfast.  The last staff lingers outside the bothy at the door.

He pops his head in – “Don’t forget the pudding later!” he says as he drops a bowl of ice cream in a mound of snow at the doorstep. In a whirl, he’s gone into the darkness.

You can’t help but smile at the irony. Too cold and icy to drive, perfect for a Michelin green star ice cream, left in the snow. 

The dinner shuffle quickly exits, with everyone’s warmest wishes and apologies for the evening. The picnic will be great, I say with a smile, while bidding them good night.  

3. My dinner picnic basket from Inver

Don’t think that just because it was a picnic dinner, it was lacking in any way! It was not! Along with a typed menu for the evening, containers contained wee instructions to assemble the course.

• Bread sticks & yeast glaze, sourdough miso dip – the most delicious sourdough miso dip known to mankind!
• Onion soup – savory and creamy, and piping hot out of the thermos.
• Sourdough bread & Inver butter – enough to save some for breakfast!
• Dressed loch Fyne crab, sea buckthorn, & fennel, with herring roe – a light and lush addition to my dinner picnic!
• Ardyne Farm pork sausage roll – gorgeously delicious pork sausage, with crisp and light pastry. Perfect for a cold night!
• Buckwheat ice-cream & late autumn fruits (with some puffed buckwheat to “sprinkle on the pud”!)
• Ameretti biscuits
• Hand-made Scottish chocolates

The dinner was a vibe unto itself. Pitch black outside, with snow and ice covering the ground. Inside, it couldn’t have been more different.

A record player setting the mood with some jazz, a tall glass of red, and a Michelin green star picnic in a luxury bothy.

As far as snow days go, this one isn’t bad!

4. Breakfast picnic basket from Inver

The coziness of the bothy just means that there are inherent challenges getting out of bed. That’s ok – some mornings are made for basking in the comfort of a slow, winter’s day.

For my breakfast picnic, behold the local delights Chef Pam and her team prepared:

• Sourdough, Inver butter & jam
• Boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt
• Inver potted trout – my favorite of the breakfast items. I never knew I would be a “fish for breakfast” kinda gal, but this was absolutely stunning spread over the sour dough bread with some butter. In addition to the trout roe, the herb salt, and that rich Inver butter… it was chef’s kiss delicious!
• Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
• Inver cardamon yoghurt & autumn fruit compote
• Fresh fruit
• Orange juice

It was a wonderful breakfast, without any hot foods, but 100% not lacking in any way. By the time breakfast was over, I was beaming with gratitude that despite unforeseen circumstances, I could still enjoy such an incredible stay at Inver.

5. Meeting Chef Pam Brunton

Many foodies would jump at the chance to have a 1-on-1 conversation with a world renowned chef. Spending any bit of face time with someone that talented is always exciting. I imagined being wide-eyed, dreamy, and salivating hearing about local cheese producers or local farmers or fisherman. Of course, those conversations didn’t take place because of the big winter detour.

During what must have been a stressful afternoon for her, the one thing I remember about Chef Pam is her incredible laugh. Spirited and boisterous, her laughter fills the cold winter afternoon with warmth and comfort.

But really, what else could we do in the face of this situation, but laugh? Well, I’ll tell you what I did. And Pam had the same idea for me. Bottle of wine? 100% yes. That’ll do just fine, cheers!

Parting Thoughts on my Dine and Stay at Inver

For a business that just had to do the unthinkable and cancel services due to weather, Rob and Pam still made it a wonderful evening and overall stay. Their sense of hospitality runs deep within them, and even in surprising circumstances, they still made it a lovely experience!  

The picnic baskets were a thoughtful addition to what could have been a ruined evening. In reality, nothing in the picnic baskets felt like an afterthought. There were no mismatched cutlery or plates or bowls. Even the thermos which kept the onion soup piping hot was in the same Scandinavian chic, muted color palette as the rest of the bothy. All of the jars and containers for the dishes and all of its accouterments were glass or otherwise reusable.  It goes without saying there were no single use plastics found anywhere in those chic, delicious, and super sustainable picnic baskets.  

The food was exquisitely delicious for a picnic, and it makes me look forward to when I can return in March 2023 and try it in full. I imagine it will be an exquisite experience! Stay tuned for the updated “real” Inver experience!

I did return in March 2023, and it was INCREDIBLE. Get the full details!

Information on Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh

• Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
• Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
• Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (one with a bath)
• Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking.  However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

If this type of luxury dine and stay in Scotland is your thing, be sure to also check out:

• Monachyle Mhor – hidden away in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park;
• The Peat Inn – a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms near St. Andrews – a wonderful stay with a wonderful meal!
• Kinloch Lodge – a charming lodge on the the Isle of Skye;
• and Glenegedale House – a luxury B&B on Scotland’s whisky island known for their hospitality and food!

Or if you’re simply on the hunt for incredible food in Scotland, might I suggest this delightfully curated list of the best seafood platters in Scotland or seek inspiration from my recent trip with some peerie stories of Shetland food.

Until next time, stay safe and eat delicious food!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In some of my normal fine dining “review” posts, I normally let the pictures speak for themselves.  However, there is a bit more to be said this time.  

The lighting in the restaurant was too dim for the newest of iPhones, so excuse the photo quality, but perhaps that in itself is foreshadowing.

1. Not given the option of a tasting menu

Typically, when I go to restaurants like Unalome, I am dining alone.  And while it may be unusual, this solo diner enjoys multi-course tasting menus. À la carte options are typically available, as well.  This time, when the menu was brought out, I was only given the à la carte menu.  Tables nearby had a trifold menu where I overheard diners discussing the vegetarian or normal tasting menu options.  However, my menu was only bifold giving me only à la carte options. 

Subsequent internet research confirmed my suspicions of a tri-fold menu, giving non-solo diners the option of the tasting menu.

I didn’t ask – I mistakenly assumed that the à la carte and tasting menu had the same items on it. However, when I ordered the tasting menu, there was a little surprise from my server, but also no additional effort to show me the tasting menu either.  

It’s also confusing that the à la carte menu says its 90£ per person, when the tasting menu is priced at 110£ pp. Why would the à la carte be charged per person?

2. Eating my tasting menu blind

Not having the menu was a real miss for me. I genuinely enjoy referring back to the menu and seeing if there were flavors that I overlooked in the first bite. It also took away from the built up excitement for the next course, as well.

I’m not sure if it’s the discomfort of a solo diner – I am all too familiar with this… Or that they were trying to give me space to enjoy my meal in peace.  Either way, I felt that the team spent less time explaining the nuances of each course to me.

Recall too, that I am eating these courses blind – having not received the menu… Later, I found a sample tasting menu online.  But in the moment, in the absence of a physical menu to refer to, the descriptions when the courses arrive should help to supplement that.  While I don’t expect the wait staff to explain every foam, every flower, or every puree in each course, I do hope for a little more explanation.  I overheard servers going into far more detail about each course and each item on the plate for other diners.

I tried to prompt my servers by asking questions as they checked on me, showing interest in the ingredients and hoping for more detail at the next course.  But, it didn’t quite work either.

3. I would’ve chosen different plating

Another thing that I found a little odd about my dining experience were the plating and cutlery (silverware) options provided.  It’s one of those things where if it’s done properly, you don’t think about it during your meal. But in reality, people spend effort in carefully and thoughtfully selecting the right bowl or plate for the particular dish.  My issue with this was that there were a few courses that were soupy or foamy in nature.  However, these were served in large, shallow pasta dishes (essentially).  It was really difficult to get the most out of your course in such a shallow dish.  

There was one course, where I really wanted a knife to cut the 2 small potatoes. Instead of a knife, I had a fork and a spoon (the rest of the dish was foamy and soupy). Not wanting to put a large chunk of potato into my mouth, I tried to carefully slice it with a fork and a spoon. There is no graceful way of doing this, and my spoon clamored down onto the plate with a thud both times I attempted this.

Luckily, it wasn’t just me. When nearby tables were served that course, I heard the familiar, loud thud as the spoon hit the plate.

4. Not the most creative dining experience

Besides the incredible food, part of the fun of fine dining experiences is the sheer creativity that chefs employ in imagining and creating their courses. Seeing how a chef can excite all your senses, not just taste, is what sets them apart in a league of their own.

However, 3 back-to-back courses were foamy and soupy. 

• The Orkney scallops had a white foam, along with pumpkin purée, pumpkin seed pesto, and maybe pickled pumpkin;
• Wild Perthshire Mushrooms, also had a white foam, a garlic soup, and two delicious but unknown sauces;
• North Sea Cod Loin with a white foam, and a cauliflower puree.

Don’t get me wrong, the flavors were rich and interesting, but the white foamy excitement of the Orkney scallops became a tired foam after the 3rd foam course.

5. Not paying homage to their food producers or sustainable food practices

“From our hand dived scallops to foraged cep mushrooms, we are passionate about sourcing the best ingredients, sustainably.”

I’m surprised to find this quote on their website, under the Sustainability section.

Part of the reason that I love the food experience in Scotland is this beautiful relationship between chef and food producers. Other restaurants have regaled me with tales of the farm that they get their fresh flowers from, or the fisherman that have supplied them with the freshest catch over the years. In some rare cases, I can even give you the name of the individual who hand dived the scallops on my plate. I mean, I did just travel to the end of the world to Shetland to meet the people behind the food there.

These are the stories that I live for in my food experience. The stories that humanize my food experience. To recognize the beauty and importance of every contribution in the local supply chain.

Even with the “Wild Perthshire Mushroom” course – I’d like to assume it was foraged in Perthshire’s big tree country, but even then, that’s an assumption. This would have been a good course to talk about sustainable food practices.

There are some restaurants that can weave these stories seamlessly throughout the dinner service without a second thought. And then, there are those restaurants that leave you guessing and scouring the internet for answers.

Parting Thoughts and lasting impressions on Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Now at the end, I should start at the beginning.

Unalome (pronounced oon-a-lome) – the word itself is a Buddhist symbol which represents the winding path of life, which leads to an individual’s enlightenment.

As someone connected to the Buddhist community (I am not an actively practicing Buddhist), this symbol and its elegant representations feel misused as a brand name for a restaurant that doesn’t even explain its significance. To be honest, it feels almost as bad as backpackers in Bali or Bangkok who get this “cool” symbol tattooed on their body. But Unalome (the restaurant) has nothing to do with the symbol. They’ve just taken the word – the name. I’m fighting the urge to say that the name has been bluntly appropriated from Buddhist culture, with no regard to its meaning or significance.

Not knowing much about the chef’s culinary background, maybe Buddhism did inspire him to name a restaurant after a religious symbol… and if that’s the case, then PR needs to do a better job of communicating that.

A culturally sensitive person would not have began the restaurant introduction with the words, “Traditionally, a Buddhist symbol, Unalome…”. Let’s be very clear. It is not “traditionally” a symbol – it is a Buddhist symbol. Not traditionally, always. There is no other use for it other than Buddhist symbolism. Period.

(Plus, the symbol is an actual graphic shown above, not the name. Are we pretending that the name, Unalome, is the symbol?)

I am also cringing at the suggestion that naming the restaurant after a Buddhist concept has anything to do with the Japanese culture that inspired the menu. Not all Japanese are Buddhist, not all Buddhist are Japanese. And conceptually, Unalome (the symbol) is not a Japanese concept – it is Buddhist.

Can we please not mix and match Asian cultures and religions as we see fit?

As I went back through my photos and notes on this meal, I realized that my experience at Unalome was probably doomed from the start.

Not everyone has the blessing or fortune in life to always share great experiences with friends and family. I wasn’t able to have anyone join me for dinner that evening, and 98% of the time I am a solo diner. But this blurb, while trying to be inclusive, missed the mark. The shared experience of Unalome with your friends and family specifically excludes one demographic –

• Solo diners, i.e. ME.

By closing the menu blurb with the only reference to the meaning of the Unalome symbol (without explanation), you’ve diminished the symbol and a name to the punch line of your restaurant. When you are thanking me for joining you on this path to enlightenment, are you bowing at me with your hands in a praying position as well?

My dining experience at Unalome has nothing to do with enlightenment.

Sure, some dining experiences can be transcendental – but not this one.

To close, I would not pay 110£ in the future for a meal that left me confused and utterly disappointed, and reeling with twinges of cultural insensitivity.

Do yourself a favor and go around the corner in Finnieston to The Gannet, which is arguably a higher caliber meal in every respect. I haven’t written about my experiences at the Gannet because I’ve been busy this year, but The Gannet is everything that Unalome is currently not.

Or, if you’re looking for other fine dining experiences in Scotland that left outstanding impressions on me, check out:

• Inver Restaurants & Rooms – the only Michelin green star awarded restaurant in Scotland!
• Kinloch Lodge, award winning and tucked away on the Isle of Skye;
• A hidden gem in the Trossachs, Monachyle Mhor;
• The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – tasting the land and the sea;
• and, coming soon – The Glenturret Lalique – the only whisky distillery with one Michelin Star.

Thank you for reading my unpopular opinion of Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, and a special shout out to the Twitter community for their encouragement to write about my experience!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

As luck would have it, I met a group of foodies earlier this year from Taste of Shetland – the area’s regional food and drink organization. If you can imagine a group of foodies laughing and giggling over food, that was us. Since then, I have been planning a trip to Shetland to visit this unsung food destination to coincide with their annual Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival (held this year on October 22 – 23, 2022). Through the Food & Drink Festival, I reconnected with my friends and made new ones who also love food in Shetland! We spent countless hours talking (and eating) none other than Shetland’s finest produce.

L: Shetland food festival 2022 groupies, plus Chef Nick Nairn;
R: the placemat at No. 88 in Lerwick, showing the best example of proximity of suppliers I’ve ever witnessed.

During most of my stay in Shetland, I was volunteering at the festival, meaning that I only managed to nip away to try a few restaurants while there. In reality, that’s ok – because the food experience in Shetland is not limited to restaurants. Food culture is everywhere!

Outside the festival, the warmth of Shetland hospitality was never far from food (or family at that). Whether it was homemade dinners with Mary and her visiting family at Hayhoull Bed and Breakfast in Bigton, or chatting with Marian Armitage in Scatness over toasty beremeal bannocks fresh oot the oven with rhubarb jam, homemade food was always front and center, along with that jovial warmth Shetlanders seem to exude.

Before I continue, allow me to wax poetic about food tourism for a minute. You all may know that I enjoy experiencing a place through its food traditions. Oftentimes one of the first thing I do when visiting a new place, is go on a food tour. In other food tours I’ve taken, you bounce around a place eating from restaurants, hearing stories of the place and its food, and (maybe) visiting a food producer or a producer’s shop (like a cheesemaker or a cheese shop), sampling foods along the way. While there are no food tours in Shetland, this Scotland foodie was determined to experience Shetland with food at its forefront.

The World Food Travel Association defines food tourism as,

“the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”

And that’s exactly what I was looking for in Shetland.

Below is a short collection of 4 peerie (little) stories, each about a person in Shetland who have a direct impact on Shetland food, and have influenced my perception of food culture.

1. Respect and affection for the food

During the Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival, I was fortunate to attend a “lamb boning” Masterclass with Lauraine Manson from Shetland’s abbatoir (or slaughterhouse). While it was called lamb boning, what it really showcased was how to utilize a single lamb to feed a village.

Lauraine is tall and dressed in all black, besides the pop of color of her red fedora. We were in a red colored room, so actually, she matches the decor. She walked in with a lamb shaped cloth sack slung over her shoulder. As she took us through her life’s experience, Lauraine made thoughtful incisions and intentional cuts to the carcass. Each cut is done with care and respect for the animal whose body she works on.

She speaks a lot about her respect for the animals. You’ll probably never find her with a cleaver hacking away at anything. It’s disrespectful, she reminds us. Those animals gave their lives for your meal – we need to respect that.

Following the deboning, the shape of the carcass no longer resembles an animal, now closer to the meat we are used to handling.

With the meat carefully splayed over the table, Shetland-native and food writer Marian Armitage steps up. Armed with a simple concoction of couscous, breadcrumbs, apricots and parsley, Marian spreads the stuffing over the lamb. “There’s no accurate quantity [for the stuffing],” Marian says, and Lauraine agrees that there’s no need for that. But don’t forget a twist of the pepper grinder, some of Shetland’s very own sea salt, and maybe some extra cumin for good measure. With a ball of twine, Lauraine and Marian come together to tightly roll the lamb and tie it, ready to roast.

Lamb would have been prepared that way for large family gatherings or village weddings. Done this way, everyone would get a bit of meat, and the stuffing (infused with all the flavors from the lamb) would take care of the rest.

Unfortunately, they didn’t cook the lamb at the food and drink festival. Earlier in the year, Lauraine and Marian did the demonstration (and cooked the lamb) for the 2022 Royal Highland Show. And I bet it smelled and tasted like no other!

2. Food tourism in Shetland – a visit to Garths Croft Bressay

Through my research on food tourism in Shetland, I found Garth’s Croft – a sustainable agricultural holding, run by Chris Dyer, focusing on traditional and different heritage breeds of sheep, pigs and poultry. Shortlisted for the 2022 Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Food Tourism, Chris offers tours of his croft and around local Bressay. He also offers a variety of bespoke tours focusing on history and heritage of the surrounding areas.

Bressay is located a quick 7 minute ferry from the Lerwick pier on Mainland Shetland.

Most of the visitors to Garth’s Croft are “fiber community” enthusiasts – people who love wool and knitting.  Thanks to the internet, the undyed fleeces from his heritage Shetland sheep are sent from one far corner of the world to another.  The magic of the internet also gives Chris an avenue to offer Zoom tours of the croft.  It seems to work well, considering Shetland’s remote location and the effort involved in visiting.

I don’t think Chris sees himself as being part of “food tourism”. I can see the direct connection funnily enough, but as a trained archaeologist and historian who runs a sustainable agricultural holding… he needs a little convincing. I think that’s part of his humility though, for being recognized and nominated in a tourism category he never saw himself as part of.

Food tourism, agritourism, ecotourism – call it what you want. At the end of the day, my experience with Chris from Garth’s Croft is hands down one of the best tourism experiences I’ve ever had.

– Lannie, extremely opinionated travel extraordinaire

Croft is not a word that gets used often outside of Scotland, and to be fair, I wasn’t entirely sure about the nuances of what a croft includes. A “croft” is defined by the Oxford dictionary as:

• a small rented farm, especially one in Scotland,
• comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house (the croft house), and
• with a right of pasturage held in common with other such farms.

Traditionally, crofting brings us back to subsistence farming – raising livestock and growing crops intended to feed you and your family, normally without surplus. Nowadays, most crofters aren’t practicing subsistence farming only. That being said, Chris only raises enough livestock that he himself can manage. Turns out it’s a lot, but still.

The sheep interrupt us to grab a cuddle from Chris, or so it seems. In actuality, Dinky is coming around to eat some of the feed Chris has in his hands. Dinky, who was the runt of the litter, is “special”, Chris says, originally needing to be bottle fed at birth. It’s amusing watching the colorful sheep playfully vying for his attention. I watch in silence, smiling at the incredible detail I just witnessed – Chris giving Dinky a little affectionate scratch on the head, as Dinky eagerly eats everything out of his other hand.

When Chris began crofting, his motivation had less to do with raising sheep to feed and clothe the masses and more with bringing the heritage of the area back to the forefront. To explain, what drives Chris is that deep connection to the land. For the archaeologist and historian, it’s less about what breeds can maximize your yields at the sheep sales, but more – what breeds are traditional to this land? What breeds can we bring back to this land?

And so he set out repurposing his croft, as a tribute to the old ways, while blending it with new, sustainable practices. Building the first drystone square enclosure on Shetland in 1,000 years, Chris sectioned off a “plantiecrub” or a traditional kale yard next to the croft house. Yes, Chris is actually one of very few drystone masons on Shetland as well, mending the walls that snake around Bressay, neighboring Noss, and mainland Shetland.

Watch this video on YouTube.

(This is a great croft tour video on YouTube that Chris made.
Let’s just blame Shetland’s weather for me not taking as many photos or videos that day I was in Bressay.)

Back to the kale yard.  Historically, that’s what it did – it grew kale, potatoes (taaties / tatties), and other root vegetables.  Kale has been in Shetland since, at least, the 17^th century.  The drystone walls provide some cover to Shetland’s harsh weathers – but that’s ok, kale seems to thrive in the tumultuous weather. Back in the day, the kale would be in the enclosure with the family’s own “hoose taaties”.  Hoose taaties are… potatoes for the “hoose” (house).

Chris is proud that the croft can thrive with zero artificial fertilizer, preferring to use a variety of heritage pigs to naturally plow and fertizile plots of land to render it arable. To supplement the kale yard and to provide weather cover for other crops, there is the polycrub greenhouse – made from recycled salmon cages.  Inside, the polycrub houses the croft’s singular apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, along with other greens and produce hidden away from Shetland’s harsh weather. I say singular fruit trees, because that’s part of Chris’ mentality, isn’t it?  He doesn’t need an orchard full of apple trees, the one is enough to feed him and his family, with some left for the Bressay community.

Garth’s Croft is an exciting blend of old and new, going back to the days before globalization and mass production, using the land to feed and clothe your family unit.  For us travelers and dreamers, a visit to Garth’s Croft makes us ponder our own life and its excesses. While few of us will do what Chris did, and move to a remote corner of the world to live off the land, there is a genuine admiration and awe of those who do.  But to be able to not only live, but thrive in such an environment – it’s an extraordinary thing and takes an extraordinary person to do so.

To bring it back to food and food tourism and Garth’s Croft…  While I haven’t outright said just yet, you as my reader must know that all the livestock in the world will end up on someone’s table at some point in time. This is true in both mass production and small scale subsistence farming. And while we are looking at beautiful heritage sheep with colorful wool or pigs happily burrowing for worms, their purpose in the end is to feed us.

Although I never tasted any of the various meat products or fresh produce from Garth’s Croft, I have a feeling that all the thoughtful care and attention Chris pays would certainly resonate in the end-product. Have you heard the myth of Kobe beef in Japan? With its world famous, gorgeously marbled meats, true or not, the cows are said to regularly listen to Mozart and given massages. While the sheep from Garth’s Croft don’t listen to Mozart (that I know of!) and unfortunately get subjected to somewhat miserable Shetland weather, they appear to have an extremely fun-loving and sustainable environment to live in. 

The Shetland agricultural community thrives on sheep. Whether that’s for Shetland’s thick “ganseys” (sweaters or jumpers for the non-Shetland speakers), to sell to mainland farmers, or for purchase and slaughter in Shetland, the agricultural community resolves around sheep and their sales. Lamb, born in the spring, take about 6 months to grow and mature, and are ready by the fall.

The sheep sales in Shetland run between August to November, from 2-3 times a week. 3-4,000 sheep are sold each time, with Chris and Lauraine being critical components to and daily fixtures at the sales. The sheep sales are the lifeblood of the agricultural community in Shetland. Chris invited me to one of the sales, and I would have loved to attend if I weren’t so busy with the festival. But, always save something for next time!

People like Lauraine and Chris are critical contributions to the sheep industry on Shetland. Their humane and respectful treatment of animals and committment to sustainable farming practices must have a direct impact on the taste of the food – it’s inevitable.  The excitement of honest, humane food practices and the emphasis on traditional values brought me to Shetland to experience the taste of Shetland in person.

It was this complex, yet simple sustainable crofting approach to life and food production that I sought out in my travels to Shetland. And from that search, I found Garth’s Croft on Bressay.

* Other Heritage Tours with Garth’s Croft

Normally, visits to Garth’s Croft are combined with a trip to the Bressay Heritage Centre and Speldiburn Cafe, but alas – it was the dreaded Monday in off-season Scotland, where almost everything is closed. But don’t let that stop you – it didn’t hinder my experience with Chris that day. Following the morning at the croft, in the most torrential weather conditions, we set out in Bressay to explore croft ruins and an Iron Age broch.

Later on in the week, I spent a second day with Chris, almost entirely unrelated to food.  We went up through mainland Shetland to Yell (via another ferry) and onto Unst (via ferry), to the UK’s most northern part – basking in its rugged beauty and history dotting the land. 

From the remains of Viking longhouses in Sandwick to the construction site of its new space port (space port?  I know, right?!!), Chris’ enthusiasm for the land and its history was infectious.  Because you can only plan so much with island life, a serendipitous missing of a ferry led us to exploring the spectacular Breckon Sands beach in Yell. 

• ❤️ Shout out to these good folks on Unst: Final Checkout Café for the delightful white coffee and Skibhoul Bakery for your wonderful baked goods for our picnic.

Even though Viking or military history isn’t my strong suit, there are so many memorable things about that day.  I don’t know if it was the wild remoteness that hypnotized me, the picnic inside a (replica) Viking longhouse (I love a good picnic), or the fact that we were the two most northern people in all of the UK that day… it was windy and rainy at parts, but overall, filled with wonder and amazement.

More to come on this later!

3. Hospitality and Food in Shetland

During my time in Shetland, I was fortunate enough to be able to spend time with people and their families – a far cry from your average tourist experience. I wanted to share some of the warm memories centered around food that my hosts and their families left with me.

* With Mary in Bigton

There’s nothing like a freak internet and mobile blackout to bring people together.  The morning that I arrived on Shetland, unbeknownst to me, there was a blackout of all internet and cell services.  Everything (digital) came to a halt.  Luckily, people in the villages of rural Scotland are used to walking over to their neighbors for a blether. And in the village of Bigton, there was a lot of folks popping into Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast every so often to say hi to Mary (my hostess) and have a blether about the blackout. 

Through the course of the week on Shetland, I met and chatted and dined with Mary’s: daughter, granddaughter, niece, sisters, and other relatives that I met in a blur.  It was so fun hear them spiritedly catch up with each other, in the Shetland dialect, translated at times for my benefit.  And as someone who works abroad for most of the year, it tugged at my heart strings for the family not near me. 

What lovely family moments, chatting away over a roasting peat fire, often talking and laughing well into the night. 

Before I ran off to the ferry, I sat down for one last meal with Mary, her daughter, and granddaughter.  A simple vegetable soup with lamb.  As Mary’s daughter explained to her daughter, “Granny’s mum made this soup for me and now granny is now making this soup for you.”  And just like that, I was brought into the fold of Mary’s mothers’ vegetable soup with lamb, keeping me warm as I left Shetland.

* Scatness with Marian

If ever there were any singular person who is Shetland food’s greatest ambassador and quintessential expert, that would be Marian Armitage. 

Marian, a local Shetlander who now splits her time between London and Shetland, dreamt of being a cookery school teacher at age 12. Now, with two books out, she is the go-to-resource on Shetland’s food and traditional recipes.

I spent my last morning in Shetland in the village of Scatness with Marian.  When I walked into her kitchen, a charming throwback to country kitchens, it felt cozy, adorable, and oddly familiar. A quick glance to the stack of cooking books on the table revealed Marian’s first book – Shetland Food and Cooking – with her iconic kitchen immortalized on the cover.

That morning, Marian was expecting her old neighbors from Lerwick to stop by, and set about to bake some fresh beremeal bannocks for her guests. By the time I arrived, they were just coming out of the oven. Perfect timing, I love a freshly baked good.

There’s something about the smells of a kitchen that’s just baked something fresh, isn’t there?

She instinctively grabs a bannock, slathers some Shetland butter on it, and asks me to taste it. “Is it done?” she asks. Of course the bannocks are done, and absolutely perfect from my perspective. Warm and thick, with deliciously melted butter dripping off the edges. “We’ll have it with some rhubarb jam in a minute.” (homemade, obviously)

As we walk into the conservatory overlooking the wild sea, we reminisce about Orkney and our visit to Barony Mill, where the beremeal flour she’s using was milled. Bere is an ancient barley, which dates back to the 8th century. A darker grain, and slightly bitter – making the bannocks a hearty affair. Like Shetland, I suppose.

Marian and I spoke at length about her love of Shetland and its food traditions, and the deep drive she has to share it with people. I didn’t realize the depths of that passion at the time, but I do now. I get it. As she so beautifully describes in her first book:

“What is special about Shetland is the people who live there and their relationship and interaction with the surrounding sea and land. They are interesting, interested, unique, skilled and outward thinking. They are influenced by the past and in many instances the old ways.”

– Marian Armitage, from Shetland Food and Cooking.

But it’s the strength of the relationships that Shetlanders have with each other too, that enhances the experience with food. And in all honesty, the bannocks and rhubarb jam tasted better with the company of Marian, Marian’s husband, James, her old neighbor from Lerwick, and his friend.

And once again, the familiar embrace of Shetland warmth and hospitality and food.

4. Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you all can see, this was a very moving trip for me. The connection between the food, the land, the people, the sea, and the animals is so thoughtful and vibrant, and really, such an exciting thing to experience. I really wasn’t prepared for all the ways that Shetland’s food opened my eyes into their world. Aside from the taste of the food itself, no regional cuisine has given me so much to think about.

But isn’t that what travel is supposed to do for us? Give us a moment to pause, reflect, and consider a different way of life? I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that with globalization and mass production, it’s simply easier (and unfortunately cheaper) to just go to the grocery store to buy your clementines from Spain or your pears from Chile. Many people don’t have easy access to farm-to-table or local produce options.

But that being said, this is a food and travel blog. I write this in hopes of influencing conscious decisions about food choices when you travel:

• Intentional support of local businesses.
• Seeking out ethical and sustainable businesses.
• Finding experiences that go beyond the norm.
• Meeting and embracing the local community.

Those are the things that fill your heart with memories after you return.

I’m reminded of an Anthony Bourdain quote,

“Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that were charming and interesting and intoxicating to me. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.“

And with that, I sincerely thank Shetland for the perfect meal it served me.

5. Shetland Post Resources

• Chris from Garth’s Croft on Bressay – the reluctant food tourism hero of Bressay, promoting heritage and sustainable agriculture in Shetland;

• Link
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Mail

• Where I stayed in Shetland: Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast in Bigton – 25 minutes drive from Lerwick and right next to St. Ninian’s Isle. I think you know I had an absolutely wonderful stay here!

• Link
• Facebook
• Mail

• Marian Armitage’s Shetland books – Food Made in Shetland (just released in 2022!) and Shetland Food and Cooking. If you’re wanting to learn more about the food, these books from Marian are essential for any foodie and home cook! They’re filled with traditional Shetland recipes and great photos to salivate over.

• Link
• Instagram
• Amazon

Getting to Shetland by Air

There are regular direct flights to Sumburgh Airport on Loganair from:

• Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Kirkwall (Orkney) in Scotland;
• London City and Manchester in England;
• Bergen, Norway, in the summer.

Getting to Shetland by Ferry

Take the 12-14 hour overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. On M, W, F, the ferry also stops in Orkney, so there’s an extra 2 hours for all the Orkney passengers and goods to join / disembark.

Most Shetlanders think the “pods” on the ship are miserable for such a long sailing. Though pricey, getting a room is highly recommended!

For those who get sea sick… off season North Sea overnight ferries are not your friend!

PIN IT FOR LATER!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The big Glaswegian party was hosted by the SMWS’s Glasgow Bath Street member room, located at the WEST Brewery. WEST Brewery brews German-style lagers and wheat beers in their Glaswegian home. You’ll often fine WEST Brewery beer on tap at Bath Street. My first whisky tasting at Glasgow’s Bath Street had a special bottling of whisky, which was aged in a WEST dark lager cask. How exactly did that work? (just a quick explanation)

• The whisky started out for 24 years in a former Firkin-cask. 
• Then, the guys at Bath Street put a German, Dunkel (dark lager) beer into the barrel (from WEST Brewery), to let the flavors seep into the barrel.
• Then, the beer was taken out.
• And the whisky went back in. 

Anyway, if beer gardens, beer halls or just traditional German beers are your thing, swing by WEST Brewery in Glasgow for some drinks and fun! In addition to the drinks, you’ll get to see the super cool building, which formerly housed the Templeton carpet factory. Gotta love an old repurposed building!

Anyway, back to the Gathering!

1. Glasgow’s SMWS the Gathering: Dinner and Whisky

Of course there’s going to be whisky at the Gathering – it wouldn’t be a whisky community without the pièce de résistance, would it? (We’ll get to the whisky…) Similarly, it wouldn’t be a Scotch Malt Whisky Society event without the food! You all know me… my obsession with food (and especially whisky and food) runs deep!

About a week before the event, I got an email asking me to choose my courses for The Gathering’s three-course dinner. It was a tough choice, but I went for:

• Starter: Goat cheese and rosemary tart (alternative: smoked salmon with caper salad);
• Main: Chicken supreme with Heidi-Weisse sauce (alternative: fillet of hake with ratatouille);
• Dessert: WEST apple strudel with ice cream (alternative: chocolate brownie with ice cream).

Somewhere along the way, I lost track of which whiskies were supposed to be paired with which course. However, as whisky aficionados always tell you – you drink your whisky however you like, and don’t let anyone tell you how to enjoy it. Whisky fans aren’t really too fussed about these things, so I’m sure there is a level of forgiveness for the forgetfulness after a night of 6 whiskies.

And now, onto the whisky!

2. The Gathering Whiskies

Everyone get on the bus for great whiskies!

The evening’s official whisky menu had 5 whiskies to enjoy. But there was a SMWS poker chip given to each person, for redemption of a dram at the Old and Rare bar. So, 6 really fine whiskies.

The evening and tastings were hosted by John McCheyne, SMWS Master Brand Ambassador, who’s whisky journey brought him to Islay in 1983, back in the day when single malt whiskies were rare. Without the pandemic, you can find John traveling the world ushering people along in their personal whisky journey. More often than not, you can find him on my fair isle of Islay, working alongside the Islay Whisky Academy.

As our host and emcee, John enthusiastically introduced the whiskies for the evening. For the 5 official whiskies, two of them came from New York (a shock, no??) to start, rounded out by two different Speyside whiskies and a Lowlands whisky, which ranged in age from 4 years (also a shock too!) to 30 years!

2.1 Made in New York, New York – Cask no. 142.1

New York, New York, it’s a helluva town! But also, who knew that there were American whiskey distilleries in New York? I definitely didn’t!

At 6 years old, and yet 66.1% ABV, this was one smooth, young whiskey! Ironically, being the strongest whisky we tried all night, you wouldn’t have known. Not much of an ethanol kick at all, but very sweet, with sugary hints raisins and brownies. The tasting notes included some cough medicine or Virgina tobacco (as specific as that is), but I really only got sweet goodness from it. A whisky website I went to researching this bottling, also included coal-gas, cooked vegetables, sweaty and plastic as its tasting notes. Did I get any sweaty plastic notes? No, definitely not. Maybe my palette isn’t as defined as this whisky website… Either way, it was delightful.

Everyone will always ask me my favorite. Normally I don’t really have one in a tasting. But truth be told, it appeared to be a general consensus among guests that this first whiskey was everyone’s absolute favorite. And that’s not any American bias from me!

2.2 Out of the Ordinary – in a very good way! Cask no. RW2.1

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that most of my whisky drinking career thus far has revolved primarily around single-malt scotches. So this 80% rye, 20% malted barley definitely caught my eye. But, if I’m honest, it wasn’t for me. The name suggested something out of this world, and similarly, the tasting notes pushed the subtitle “in a good way!” and “in a very good way” to raise my expectations to a level which was too high for the whiskey itself.

The tasting notes suggested a very herbal nose and flavor, indicating flavors that I’d expect from a heavy botanical gin – lemongrass, lemon myrtle, lemon balm, and orange peel. That, combined with the initial cask being a new charred oak barrel, there was just a bit too much competing flavors.

While this one wasn’t for me, not every whisky will be – and that’s ok! This one was aged 4 years, and made in New York as well. The rye/malted barley whiskey was at 51.7% ABV.

2.3 Timeless and Magnificent – Cask no. 65.7

Finally a scotch! I’m biased, I know. I was excited to try this 30 year old Speyside. For me, it was a little spicy and peppery, with tasting notes hinting at cardamom and ginger, and caramels. Delightful for a cold evening, but for me, unexpectedly spicy for the evening!

At 52.9% ABV (a lower percentage this evening), it felt surprisingly strong. And actually, even stronger than the first whisky (which was alarmingly 66.1%!). It’s interesting how percentage alcohol doesn’t directly influence how much of an alcohol kick you get out of the drink.

2.4 Seductive Whispers of Oak – Cask no. 97.23

Old whisky lovers rejoice! A second 30 year old scotch to enjoy. This time, a Lowlands whisky, at 58.2% ABV, aged for 30 years in a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel. Prior to reading the tasting notes for this one, I thought – hmm, this is kind of delightful, with vanilla and toffee flavors. But you know how your sense of taste and smell are heavily influenced by external factors? Well, this one was described as a “chorus of church pews, leather, tobacco strands and spiced rum.” And later on, “sugary espresso dregs.”

And that was it, it was all leather and old church pews from then on. Tasting notes can be a strange thing – sometimes it can help you identify the aromas and tastes that you already know, but can’t put a name to. Other times, like inception, it will plant a seed in your mind that you can never get over. To conclude, this one never moved past the church pews and leather, even though I knew sweeter flavors were there!

2.5 Encased in Leather – Cask no. 35.271

From one leather to another! Just kidding – even though this 25 year old Speyside had leather in the name, it was a softer leather taste than the previous one. This one had more sweet notes of warn baked orange and cinnamon, with some nutmeg and other autumnal spices. At 56.4% ABV, it wasn’t too heavy, and was the perfect dram to finish off the evening. I drank this with my apple strudel, which paired beautifully, with the cinnamony flavors being brought out by the strudel.

3. The Old and Rare Bar

Get yourself to the old and rare bar for some drams that are exactly that – old and rare. With Alan helming the bar, you were sure to get a phenomenal recommendation on what to drink with your free token! Alan is by far one of the most enthusiastic whisky drinkers I’ve met, and the tastings he hosts at SMWS Bath Street are always a delight!

For me and my plus 1, it was “The Three Chocolatiers” (Cask no. 46.99) for a deliciously sweet and smooth 27 year Speyside.

4. Parting thoughts on SMWS The Gathering

Watch this video on YouTube.

What an incredibly fun evening! Everything about the evening was absolutely phenomenal! From the food, to the guided tastings, and then the whiskies! It’s a rarity when you can have a tasting with two 30 year old whiskies (and a 26 year old as a free dram!). Those two 30 year olds are retailing for 495£. Not suggesting that price equates the quality of the whisky, but wow!! Definitely in the old and rare category!

Before the music started, the room was a bit on the louder side, so I wasn’t really able to chat with the folks at my table. That didn’t diminish the lively feel of the evening. And then, when the band started, it was just such a great vibe! Glaswegian-based The Easy Winners played a great set list, including “You are my Sunshine” from Johnny Cash, and one of my all-time favorite Disney hits – “The Bare Necessities” from the Jungle Book.

All in all, I had a really great evening. I mean, with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, when do I not? But all joking aside, it’s wonderful to have found a hobby that connects you with a group of fun-loving people, always ready to jump down a whisky rabbit hole with you. The global whisky community that SMWS has created is something extremely special, and I’m grateful to be embraced within this community.

While I was gifted this delightful evening, along with a plus one, all opinions in this piece are my own. I have no obligations to enjoy all of the whiskies I tasted. I am also an affiliate of SMWS, which means should you purchase anything from the links in green, I may receive a small commission from that.

If you’re still on the fence about SMWS membership, feel free to check out some of the other posts I’ve written:

• For those curious about SMWS membership, or those wanting to commit to membership immediately;
• What about pairing surf and turf with whisky?
• Or dessert and whisky? Only the best combo!

Until the next delightful whisky event, I bid you all adieu and slainte mhath! Take care and be safe!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This post will be the first in a series, highlighting the events that I attended with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, during food and whisky pairing month.  There’s still a few events left in August, so hurry and sign up for them!  Most of the food and whisky pairing events are for both members and non-members alike (probably to reel in and delight those non-members!)  For those sad folks that can’t manage, don’t worry – there are delectable food options in the SMWS Member Rooms at all times, and your SMWS Ambassador will help you make a delicious pairing with their current outturn offerings. 

My attendance at these events were graciously gifted to me by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, of which I am an affiliate.  That means, should you choose to sign up for a SMWS membership following this post, I will receive a small commission for that referral.  All opinions and delights in this post are my own and are not influenced by the gifted tastings.  Thank you, SMWS as always!

The first food and whisky pairing event I attended was hosted at SMWS Queen Street in Edinburgh.  Executive Head Chef James Freeman created an exquisite 6 course tasting menu, with each course paired with a SMWS whisky to enhance the whisky experience.  Most people I’ve spoken to consider whisky an after-dinner drink, often considering whisky during dinner to be too heavy.  While I wouldn’t suggest it for every night of the week, on certain special occasions, it can be just the thing.

Your typical food and whiskey pairings are charcuterie platters (meats and cheeses go nicely with heavy, rich whiskies) and chocolates or desserts, where the sweet flavors enhance the soft sweetness in the whiskies. But this? One whisky per meal course? Unheard of, and so decadent!

Before I begin on that evening’s frivolities, allow me to express my great thanks to:

• Logan, our delightful host for the evening,
• Our dinner companions, who added light-hearted laughter and color to the dinner;
• And my friend, Jenny, who joined as my plus one.

Without further ado:

The SMWS Food and Whisky Pairing Tasting Menu

The evening started out with some bread to pad the stomach of the many whiskies to come.  The bread, thematically sitting on barley grains, came with two types of butter – tomato and wild garlic and fennel herb.  When it came out, my friend said “I know which butter you’re going for.”  And it’s true.  Tell me something has garlic in it, and I’m all over it!  If a recipe calls for 1 clove, you gotta put in at least 4.  Anyway, I digress.  Don’t get too excited with the delicious bread and butter, because the first course is coming.

1st course: Torched Mackerel & a Highland

Torched Mackerel with purple potato, apple, compressed cucumber, horseradish buttermilk and dill

Contrapuntal Complementarities – 52.39 (Old Pulteney), a Highland whisky – aged 7 years, at 57.9% ABV

According to Logan, the mackerel had a “bitterness to it”, where the sweet and citrus of the whisky helped to balance out that flavor.

2nd course: Tomato & burrata, with a Speyside

Isle of Wight tomato with basil emulsion, burrata, baby courgettes and wild garlic

A bee swarm on holiday – 36.165 (Benrinnes), a Speyside whisky – aged 12 years, 57.7% ABV

Fruity, vanilla, warm with cloves – a perfect pairing with the light, freshness of a tomato basil salad. The tanginess of the tomato brought out the sweet notes of the whisky.

3rd course: Salmon & a 17 year Speyside

Roast fillet of Loch Duart Salmon, lobster and summer vegetable bisque with a lemon and caper relish

Fruits of the Florist – 7.232 (Longmorn), a Speyside whisky – aged 7 years, 59.1% ABV

By unanimous decision, everyone’s favorite whisky of the evening. A little spice, custard and creme brulee. According to logan, when paired with the salmon and capers, “brings out a weirdness in the whisky.” I dunno about “the weirdness”, but it was definitely everyone’s favorite.

4th course: Quail & a smoky Speyside

Roast quail with bargoule mousse, buckwheat emulsion, crispy potato gratin, chanterelle mushrooms and a redcurrant sauce

Pleasing Sweetness, Playful Heat 64.111 (Mannochmore), a Speyside whisky – aged 8 years, 55.5% ABV

To quote one of the dinner guests, “It doesn’t taste as bad as some of the peaty ones I’ve had!” Now, if that’s not a seal of approval, I don’t know what is.

5th course: Strawberries & autumn in the Highlands

Strawberry meringue with roasted strawberry sorbet, elderflower crème fraiche and strawberry salad

When autumn leaves start to fall – Society Cask (Dalmore), a Highland whisky, aged 13 years, 58% ABV

A second fill sherry cask, and then finished in a first fill bourbon cask for 1 year – what can I say? I love a sherry cask, and its sweetness always goes with a delectable dessert. The strawberry-centric dessert was light and refreshing, perfect for a summer evening!

6th course: Decadent chocolate cheesecake & a Highland whisky

Brillat Savarin & caramel chocolate cheesecake with a dark chocolate glaze, served with vanilla ice-cream.

Raisin cane – 55.4 (Loch Lomond -Inchmurrin), a Highland whisky, aged 19 years, 55.4% ABV

I think I was too many whiskies in to appreciate the last pairing. The whisky had wood characteristics (kind of like furniture polish), with a hint of sweetness and cloves. But that dessert!! I’m a chocolate fan, so everything about this spoke to me!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS Food and Whisky Tasting Menu

Coming into this evening, I wasn’t sure how it would pan out. A six course tasting menu – did that mean there were six whiskies too? (Why yes, it does!!) The Scotch Malt Whisky Society obviously delivers on the whisky front. There’s no question about that. But could it deliver on the food front? 100% YES. The quality of the food was phenomenal and absolutely delicious. The plating was stunning, too. As one of the dinner guests said with confidence, “I’ve never had a bad meal here.”

Now, about having one whisky per course… to be fair, you don’t have to do whisky pairings. One of the ladies in our group was not a whisky fan, so she chose to have wine pairings with it. But beware – if we have six whiskies, that means she had six wines!

What I’ve learned so far about food and whisky tastings. I’m not sure the whisky enhances the food. On the contrary though, the food definitely enhances the whisky. Sometimes on a first sip, the whisky can taste sharp – rough around the edges, if you will. By taking a bite of food in between sips of whisky, the whisky smooths out. Some of the more subtle flavors make an appearance and become bolder.

The cost of the dinner was 89£ per person, which doesn’t come cheap for a dinner. However, that was a 6 course meal with 6 whisky pairings. When you add it up like that, the food and whiskey pairings definitely become worth it! Not every night needs to have a decadent meal. But for that special night out, whisky fans, consider having a food and whisky pairing at Scotch Malt Whisky Society! The food I’ve tasted so far is exquisite, and the whisky – well, that goes without saying – phenomenal!

Jokingly, a dinner guest said, “The world could end tomorrow – this could be your last meal.” And while a little on the grim side, the better way to think of that is, carpe diem! Seize the day! Sometimes you just need to treat yourself to something exquisite, and that’s perfectly ok!

Thank you to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for gifting me this incredible food and whisky pairing for 2! Remember, there’s at least 2 more events I’m writing about from different Member Room locations around the UK. So stay tuned for the rest of food and whisky pairing month from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

To learn more about Scotch Malt Whisky Society, check out my other posts:

• the exclusive benefits of SMWS membership
• a society cask tasting at the Glasgow Member Room
• an outdoor tasting adventure on the Three Distilleries Path.

Travelling from London or England? Come up to Edinburgh or Glasgow on an overnight sleeper train from London Euston. Arrive refreshed in the morning and all and ready for a whisky adventure!

Until then, take care, stay safe, and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

{For those who want to pronounce it properly like I always do, break it up into 4 syllables and say: GLEN-egg-uh-DALE. House. Glenegedale House. Got it?}

1. The lure of Glenegedale House

I first became acquainted with Glenegedale House through social media. In early 2020, Glenegedale House won Visit Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. The award definitely caught my attention. Although I was not looking for the best luxury accommodation on Islay, when I found it, need I look further?

When I travel, amazing hospitality is just one of those things that I specifically look for. And for a place to win an award specific to its hospitality, well, let’s just say I put a little mental note in my brain to visit and stay at Glenegedale House sometime in the near future!

Several hours of internet lurking and months of obsessing over their Instagram, I discovered that they were famous for their baking. Fresh, warm pastries at breakfast, coffee and cakes for afternoon tea. Over covid lockdown, they also sold tray bakes and other baked goods out of an honesty box on their grounds.

2. My Islay bed and breakfast decision

I consulted with one of my friends, who works for a drinks company with a distillery on Islay. She solidified the choice of Islay as a holiday, but also Glenegedale House as the place to stay while on Islay. She visited a few years back and stayed for one night. Any guesses where that one night was?

Glenegedale House.

She told me that if I was looking for a low key Scottish island, with hiking opportunities and interesting things to see, Islay was the place for me. And if I were looking to be well fed with baked goods and taken care of by the best proprietress, Glenegedale House was the luxury accommodation on Islay that I had to choose.

Let’s have a bit of a recap: When you go stay at Glenegedale House, you get the full experience of hospitality, including someone making you fresh baked goods 24-7. I think you can all get on board with that.

Now that I’ve introduced its baked goods, let me properly introduce you to this luxury accommodation on Islay – Glenegedale House.

3. How to get to Glenegedale House

The bed and breakfast is located in the south of the Island, just across the street from the Islay airport. It is less than a 10 minute drive from Port Ellen, which has one of the island’s main ferry ports.

• From Port Ellen, take the A846 northwest leaving town. After a weird left and a right to stay on A846, you’ll go straight on A846. When you see the airport on your left, Glenegedale House is on your right.

• From Port Askaig (the other ferry terminal on Islay), you can either follow A846 south all the way to Glenegedale House (approx 25 – 30 minutes). You’ll pass through Bowmore on the way.

Or you can take the funner way from Port Askaig, which is heading south on A846 and then after Bridgend (8.5 miles), turn left onto B8016. After 6 miles of straight, uninterrupted road, you’ll see a sign for Glenegedale and you’ll turn right. This also takes approximately 25-30 minutes, but trust me – it’s much funner drive this way.

4. Arriving to my luxury accommodation on Islay

I arrived to Islay from the ferry port in Port Askaig. The ferry was supposed to arrive around 2:30 PM, but was slightly delayed in leaving the Scottish mainland. The day before, Emma from Glenegedale emailed asking what time I would check in. Even though it only takes 30 minutes to get from Port Askaig to Glenegedale, I told her I’d arrive at 4 PM.

Why 4 PM? I always want to add in extra time to get lost, find my way, or stop for refreshments. Without getting lost and beaming of the pride of punctuality, I arrived at 3:57 PM.

Unbeknownst to me, I was Glenegedale’s first guest after Scotland’s first lockdown ended in July 2020.

4.1 Glenegedale House’s COVID-19 Preparedness

Speaking of the large, ugly pandemic in the room, I should firstly say that the standard of everything at Glenegedale House is so high that you should not worry about covid preparedness.

But in case you’d like to know specifically, here are the measures Glenegedale House has taken to ensure their guests are safe!

1. Certified as “We’re Good to Go!” by Visit Scotland;
2. Hand sanitizing stations at doors and located inside;
3. Masks on during welcoming a guest;
4. Some kind of anti-virus sanitization spray for the furniture and rooms, after a guest uses the area.

During my stay, I never once felt that things were not sanitized properly. It is very clear that those in the tourism and hospitality industries take COVID-19 precautionary measures extremely seriously. So try to relax and let the hospitality of a luxury accommodation on Islay envelop you.

4.2 A welcome with Baked Goods

When I first arrived, I was brought into their sitting room some rest and an Islay chat with Emma, my hostess. We are just chit chatting along about Islay and whiskies and my love of Scotland when all of a sudden, out comes this gorgeous tray of fine china and silver with my coffee.

Followed in very close succession by another tray with something to pair with the coffee, of course:

Coffee and Hazelnut Cake
&
Hamlyn Oats and Blueberry Flapjacks, with a Kilchoman Saligo Bay Whisky Drizzle

Are you just sitting there and salivating right now? That would make two of us! Both were made fresh that day, by Emma, our hostess with the mostest. And, in case you needed to me to specifically say, it was absolutely delicious!!

5. My Room at Glenegedale House

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a Double Room with ensuite facilities (i.e. a private bathroom and shower). The cost of 198 GBP a night (or approximately $275 USD) includes both bed and breakfast. And, as you’ll see shortly, THE BREAKFAST IS PHENOMENAL.

Back to the room!

Imagine laying in bed with warm wool and tweed all around you, maybe it’s a sunny day outside or maybe it’s a little dreich… watching the sea from the window, while snuggling in bed.

I loved the soft grey and heather colors of the tweed and wool. The thick, native Scottish fabrics made the room sooooo warm and inviting. Considering that it was quite chilly and brisk in July, you’ll want that extra warmth!

But not only that, I absolutely loved the gorgeous wallpaper from Timorous Beasties. Fun fact, I already knew about Timorous Beasties and lusted after that thistle wallpaper even before I visited! Does that mean me and Glenegedale House are a match made in interior decorating heaven? ABSOLUTELY.

Glenegedale House carries toiletries from ARRAN Sense of Scotland, from neighboring Isle of Arran. The chosen scent, “After the Rain,” is a warm and refreshing mix of lime, rose and sandalwood. Their products are cruelty free and environmentally friendly!

My washroom had a shower and not a bathtub. The pressure was high and the water was hot. No complaints here!

5.1 Amenities in my Room

Maybe this is a little known fact about me – I bring coffee with me everywhere I go. That means, I’m alway looking coffee making facilities in the room.

Fear not, the room comes with all of the following:

• armoire and chest of drawers for your clothes,
• kettle and mugs (with coffee, tea, and all the trimmings),
• a TV (but I never watched),
• and a full length mirror which was glorious.

In case I didn’t mention it before, free WiFi and free parking is also included!

6. The Food and Drinks at Glenegedale House

Ok, I know I teased you with the coffee cake and blueberry flapjacks. You all must know that if I’m foreshadowing some epic food, it should live up to expectations.

For Emma, food is her way of sharing her passion for Islay and Scotland. You can taste the warmth and hospitality in each bite. When creating recipes, she tries to use local Islay ingredients and products. If local products from Islay are not available, she selects ingredients from local producers in Argyll and Bute, and then Scotland, and then finally broad UK-British brands and products. And you’ll see this in the food I highlight below. If she can support local businesses, she will.

Breakfast is obviously provided, and beginning in 2021, Glenegedale House also began offering dinner options. Do note that there are no lunch options. However, they can prepare a picnic basket if you’re looking to do that!

6.1 Breakfast offers at Glenegedale House

Pre-pandemic breakfast at Glenegedale House was a vast and lush buffet that people regularly rave about online. The buffet is no longer. But, if you think that removing a buffet means less food, you are absolutely wrong!

Breakfast is served between 7 – 8 am, also known as the absolute perfect time for breakfast. Retreating back into bed with a full belly is not only a good idea, it may even be recommended.

First up, baked goods. Each morning there are warm, straight-out-of-the-oven baked delights in a variety of shapes and flavors. During time my there, Emma delighted me every morning with my cup of coffee and the following baked goods:

1. Apricot and almond muffins;
2. Banana bread;
3. Fig and walnut bread.

Amazing tip for solo travelers – you still get 2 muffins and 2 pieces of fresh bread in the morning, same as the couple next to you. Basically, the one time known to mankind where being a solo traveler gives you some kind of a benefit! (ok, I digress…)

From then, you can take a gander at the breakfast menu for their mains:

1. Smoked Salmon and Scrambled Eggs – Argyll Salmon smoked in Campbeltown with some of our own Glenegedale hen eggs scrambled with creme fraiche and a little salt and pepper and a slice of homemade brown bread;
2. Full Hebridean Breakfast – Smoked Ayrshire bacon, Glenegedale hen eggs (fried poached or scrambled), pork and herb sausage made by our local butcher in Bowmore, ove roasted tomato, Ramsay’s of Carluke Haggis, mushroom and a wee dish of Heinz baked beans;
3. Cheese Platter – A selection of cheese, served with a little fruit, homemade oatcakes, and a wee dish of chutney;
4. Eggs and Soldiers – 1 or 2 boiled eggs done as you like, with some freshly toasted bread to tip.

Or if a simple porridge and cream is your thing (or oatmeal for us Americans!), they also have Scotts Porridge Oats made slowly with water, served with cream and whisky (Laphroaig 10) on the side!

For a full Islay bed and breakfast experience, I would recommend the Full Hebridean Breakfast, paired with a side of porridge and whisky. For those who don’t know what Hebridean breakfast is, it’s your tried and true Scottish breakfast, but with ingredients from the Hebrides.

They also make their own poached fruits that go deliciously with the porridge. For me, it was plums with vanilla and cinnamon, rhubarb with root ginger, and pears with ginger and cloves. Sound too good to be true? Absolutely!

See how glorious Glenegedale House breakfasts are??

6.2 Dinners

Nowadays, dinner can be booked at Glenegedale House 6 nights a week. You can also do a meat and cheese board separate from their dinners.

At least once a week, there will be a seafood platter night. I would highly recommend ordering the seafood platter, as it is absolutely stunning! We’ll get to the seafood platter in a bit. For me, did I have both charcuterie and seafood platters (on different nights)? Obviously I did.

Have I also sampled dinners at Glenegedale House on my staycation stay there? Of course I did. I’ll give you a wee look into the dinners I’ve had at Glenegedale House.

6.2.1 Dinner at Glenegedale House

So far, I’ve had three delightful dinners with Emma and Graeme, two during my staycation and one as a guest of a guest a few weeks later. The quality of food is absolutely phenomenal and I genuinely enjoyed dining there!! Some things that you’ll see in the photos below:

• hand dived Islay scallop mornay (with melted, Isle of Mull cheddar);
• Dunlossit venison steak, with junipery Lussa Gin and Cairnmore Bay jus;
• Argyll smoked salmon tartare, with Lagavulin wild garlic pesto. The smoked salmon (smoked by Argyll smokery) has been smoked over Islay whisky barrel shavings, specifically for Glenegedale House!
• creme brulee with fresh raspberries and mint.

Some items not shown include Scottish cornfed chicken breast stuffed with cheese and herbs, along with sticky toffee pudding (my absolute favorite Scottish desert)!

6.2.2 The Meat and Cheese Board

The amazing thing about this charcuterie board are the deliciously local ingredients. We had meat and cheeses from Islay, the Isle of Mull, the Isle of Gigha, and New Lanark (on the mainland). Scottish food at its finest!

Also, the delicious oatcakes are Emma’s own recipe made from the peaty grist from Laphroaig! See how whisky pairs with basically everything?

For the baking savvy wanting to try to make Emma’s Hamlyn Oats and Laphroaig oatcakes, give it a try! For extra fun, she did a cooking demonstration recently on Facebook Live and walks you through the easy recipe!

6.2.3 The Seafood Board

Emma knew that I wanted to have a seafood dinner during one of my evenings. She suggested that I eat it on S & B’s last night (the other guests staying at Glenegedale), so that we could all enjoy our seafood dinners together. Having been to Kilchoman’s beach whisky tasting with S&B (and had delightful conversation over breakfasts and in passing), I thought that was a wonderful suggestion and happily agreed.

Before I get to the actual seafood dinner, I should give a brief intro into my excitement level leading up to this meal. Even though I was born in a landlocked state, I’m pretty confident that island life is for me. Everything about living on an island speaks to me – the water, the sand, the sun, the landscape. The food. But, specifically, the fresh seafood. My love of seafood is only outweighed by my ignorance at preparing it myself. I’ll need to work on this…

Back to this seafood dinner. So, island gal at heart, eyes sparkling, when this arrives:

If you’re confused at this, don’t be – this is 1 person’s portion. Even now, months later, I’m still rendered speechless at the sight of this.

(Internal dialogue – get it together and say something!)

Suffice it to really say, we all enjoyed ourselves immensely. The dinner had lots of laughter, so much warmth, and (at least for me) periods of standing up to make room for dessert.

Although I regularly boast about how much I can eat, I simply could not eat everything on this platter. Plus, there was still dessert! A delectable chocolate and Lagavulin mousse.

Emma suggested I make a sandwich for tomorrow’s lunch. Crab salad sandwich with all the fixings, here I come! Not to worry folks. If not for the crab sandwich, the chickens get the leftovers. So nothing goes to waste!

7. Glenegedale House – the farm

Since I spent so much time at Glenegedale House, the family thought it would be fun for me to go on a walk with their son, Cameron, as he feeds the animals. Cameron, a newly joined and super excited vet student, took me to see their baby chickens and sheep.

For those of us city slickers who don’t realize, raising animals can include submitting them into competitions (which may or may not include photo shoots with hair dryers and floofing), selling fertilized eggs online during the pandemic (so people can hatch chicks), sheering the wool off of sheep (which cost more than the wool itself), and putting trays and trays of fresh eggs in the honesty box out front.

All of this is new to me, and as Cameron unveils this secret world, I put together the pieces of the chicken photo shoot puzzle.

The day before, Emma told a story that she just got off a Zoom call when she sees her kids walk out back with a hair dryer and a brush. She doesna wanna know. And now, Cameron, talking about primping a chicken for a competition.

In fairness, it is a beautiful chicken.

When I refer to “the farm”, I mean that in actuality. In addition to chickens, roosters, and sheep, Glenegedale House also has a pair of horses. You’ll always cross paths with Millie, their daughter, with her shy smile on her horse.

All of these are delightful sights and experiences for someone who spends most of their time in cities (or conflict zones!). Not to mention, who doesn’t want to hold baby chicks while on holiday???

8. Things to do near Glenegedale House

Islay is a small island, sizewise. The below list is just showing what is within the vicinity of Glenegedale House. For other places on the island, which are easily accessible by car or bus from Glenegedale, I have written about them in other posts, here and here. Feel free to check it out!

8.1 Port Ellen

Port Ellen (actually pronounced POR-tellen) is one of the bustling towns on Islay – the other being Bowmore. You can find everything you need in Port Ellen – the post office, grocery stores, a gas station, and some delightful small businesses. In fact, Port Ellen may even be your first stop on Islay from the CalMac ferry.

I’m only listing my favorite businesses in Port Ellen below – there will be more soon, but I didn’t manage to visit during covid times!

8.1.1 Sea Salt Bistro

One of your meals on Islay has to be at Sea Salt Bistro. And I absolutely insist on this. Gorgeously fresh seafood, amazing service, and unforgettable food!

Do I still think of this seafood linguini every single day? Obviously, yes.

8.1.2 The Blue Letterbox

The Blue Letterbox is combination post office and gift shop, and is a must-visit for gifts from your stay in Port Ellen. The shop proudly showcases items from local producers from Islay, as well as nearby Colonsay and Jura.

For me, a couple of tea towels and some sea glass jewelry.

But not only that, there was a snafu when I visited – the Blue Letterbox also does currency exchange from USD to GBP when there are issues with the bank or ATM!

8.2 Distilleries near Glenegedale House

Islay currently has 9 distilleries, with three of them within walking distance of Port Ellen town! Not only are these the closest distilleries to Glenegedale House, but they’re also the three that comprise the Three Distilleries Walk. During that walk, you come by the southern Islay distilleries:

• Laphroaig – the super peated favorite of Outlander star, Sam Heughan,
• Lagavulin – a peated favorite of Parks and Rec star, Nick Offerman,
• Ardbeg – a distillery and whisky that is new to me! I have an unopened bottle of Ardbeg, An Oa, waiting for me.

You can also visit all of the distilleries individually, and by car. Don’t worry – if you’re the designated driver (or going solo like I do!) you can attend the tour and enjoy the tasting (more the smells, and perhaps a little sip). Your whiskies will come in a nifty to-go bottle so you can enjoy it later.

If you’re not a drinker, don’t worry – the walk is a delight in itself! But for me, I’m looking forward to visiting all three of these and learning more about their rich Islay and scotch history!

You also don’t need to walk there and back – take the bus! or call for a taxi! The walk is good to work off your whisky tastings and food you’ve eaten at one of the distilleries delicious restaurants!

Even though this is not a full distillery, it will be very soon! The old Port Ellen Distillery was first established as a malt mill in 1825 (with a stint in the middle distilling whisky). It was recently announced by Diageo that they would re-open Port Ellen as a whisky distillery. I think COVID has pushed back those plans, but keep your eyes open! Spirits coming soon.

8.3 The Big Strand Beach

Ok, everyone wants to stay at a place with a view, but what about a beach within walking distance?

I give you – the Big Strand Beach. Within walking distance of Glenegedale House. The best start to your morning, the best idea during your day, the best way to wind down for your evening.

8.4 Hike around the American Monument and the Mull of Oa

The Mull of Oa (pronounced “oh” haha) is a peninsula in the southwest of Islay. Located in between Glenegedale House and Port Ellen, it’s a nice afternoon hike out to the cliffs and the American Monument. You can even glimpse some highland coos up on the way to the monument. 

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

8.5 Historical Sites near Glenegedale House

8.5.1 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

8.5.2 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton). Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

Gorgeous deer with stnning eyelashes on my way to Kildaton Cross. Same deer, different lens.

8.6 Other notables on Islay (and neighboring Jura!)

As I said earlier, Islay is not a big island. While the above is just a list of things to do near Glenegedale House, everything on the island is easily accessible, anywhere you stay. The below list of places stood out to me, as places I would definitely visit again next time on Islay, and places I’d love to visit once they’ve re-opened for COVID times.

8.6.1 Bowmore

• Spirited Soaps! A locally owned soap shop, which includes Islay and Jura spirits in their soaps and personal care products.
• Peatzeria – need I say more from the name?
• Bowmore Distillery – the named after Bowmore, the capital of Islay. Can you think of a more classic whisky than a delicious Bowmore?

8.6.2 Rhinns of Islay and the Western side of the island

• Port Charlotte Hotel – an amazing bed and breakfast, with a famous whisky pub and live music!
• Bruichladdich Distillery – with their famous light blue bottling and Octomore, heavily peated brand,
• Kilchoman Distillery – Islay’s farm distillery – they grow most of their own barley and have a traditional malting floor!
• Portnahaven – fishing village, with views of the lighthouse and the place for seal sighting!

8.6.3 The Northern part of the island

• Caol Ila Distillery – the main spirit inside Johnnie Walker’s Black Label! Whisky lovers, did you know that?? Currently closed for renovations;
• Bunnahabhain Distillery – another whisky that I know very little about, and am excited to learn more! If you happen to visit the distillery, I hear there is a shipwreck on the beach nearby!
• Ardnahoe Distillery – Islay’s newest distillery! Their whiskies are in the process of maturing right now, but the distillery and shop have a delicious cafe, with a gorgeous view out to Jura.

8.6.4 Nearby Jura

• Lussa Gin – continue your hunt for great spirits (with great stories) on the neighboring island of Jura!
• Jura Distillery – visit the distillery, whose whisky was a source of comfort through first lockdown! Jura, the Sound, was the last bottle I picked up at duty free on my way to lockdown.
• The Jura Hotel – I didn’t get to visit during my time on Jura, but I hear their venison burgers are the highlight! Definitely coming back next time!
• Visit Barnhill – where George Orwell isolated himself and wrote 1984. It’s located off of a private drive (and involves a hike if you want to see the house ).

8.6.5 Map for your Islay holiday

9. Parting Thoughts on Glenegedale House

I was so happy to stay at Glenegedale House during my first trip to Islay, and again when I needed a little staycation. There are so many things that I loved! From Graeme and Emma’s kind and warm hospitality, to the constant flow of fresh baked goods, hot coffees, and rich whiskies. They were the kind of hosts that make you feel like family, rather than a visiting guest!

Emma’s smile and laughs are extremely contagious and can fill any room. They were always quick to help (i.e. my bank snafu) or get another whisky (“in 2 shakes”, as Emma always says). And they give the best itinerary suggestions if you haven’t fully researched your trip yet!

There is a reason Glenegedale House won Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. It is truly a wonderful place to stay, and the best luxury accommodation on Islay!

10. Important details for your stay at Glenegedale House

Glenegedale House
Isle of Islay
Argyll, PA42 7AS

Contact:
Email: info@glenegedalehouse.co.uk
Tel: +44 01496 300 400
Mob: +44 07554 669 664

Due to covid, Glenegedale House has flexible booking terms. Send them a note if you have questions! And follow them on Social Media below!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

But before I begin, I know we Americans want to pronounce Charlotte like SHAR-lett (in the same vein of Charlotte McDougal York from Sex and the City).  But I’m here to tell you that that on Islay, it’s pronounced more phonetically – CHAR-lett.  Say it out loud.  Port CHAR-lett.  Now you’ve got it. And now, onto my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

did you say it right?

1. Where is Port Charlotte, Islay?

Port Charlotte is a village located on the western side of Islay, on the Rhinns of Islay (a peninsula that juts out from the rest of the island).  Now, Islay is not a big island, and you can probably drive the whole length of the island in about an hour.  But believe me – it’s a different feel on the other side of the island! 

1.1 How to reach Port Charlotte by Ferry / Car

If your ferry disembarks from Port Askaig, it will take you about 25 minutes to reach Port Charlotte. From the ferry port, head south on A846 for 7.8 miles, and then turn right at Bridgend onto A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

If you’re coming from Port Ellen, it will take you about 30 minutes to Port Charlotte. Since Port Ellen is at the southern tip of the island, you’ll drive north on B8016 (the funnest straight road to drive in Islay) for about 9 miles. You’ll reach the end of B8016, and take a slight right onto A846 for 0.7 miles. As you reach Bridgend, you’ll turn left on A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

1.2 How to reach Port Charlotte from the Islay Airport

When you exit the airport, turn left onto A846. After about 5 miles, you’ll begin to enter into the town of Bowmore. Turn left onto Main Street in Bowmore (at the round church).

If you want a little stop on Main Street Bowmore, check out Spirited Soaps, for some homemade soaps with your favorite Islay and Jura whiskies and gins as a base!

Once you hit the end of Main Street, A846 turns right and you continue on for less than 3 miles when you reach Bridgend, and turn left onto A847 for the last 7.7 miles of your journey onto Port Charlotte.

2. Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

When doing my research, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay consistently came up as having amazing food, and a lively, award-winning whisky bar. Since its housed inside the village of Port Charlotte itself, it’s a really social place to stay in Islay. Delightful hotel, amazing food, and a village-watering-hole feel?  Yes, yes – that’s kind of exactly what I’m looking for.

When I arrived in Port Charlotte, I immediately fell in love with the village.  With gorgeous white-washed houses, and stunning views of the bay, it was almost like a Scottish version of Santorini.  Of course, with different weather.  Normally, the Port Charlotte Hotel has both outdoor dining and a dining conservatory with views of the bay. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the village of Bowmore across the sea. 

Now that you have a feel of the place, onward to my stay!

3. My Stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay for two nights in August 2020, for £180 per night in the high season.  This included an amazing breakfast, which I’ll get to as well.  To skip everything and jump down to the costs, click here.

As a result of COVID-19, check in took place from behind a plexiglass window, with hand sanitizers around.  I was given my key and check in papers in a sealed envelope.  This is the world of hospitality now. 

The envelope included information about their COVID-19 safety measures, as well as a dinner menu.  I made dinner reservations in advance, as was suggested by the hotel a few days prior.  If you know me, you know I love making reservations in advance, even if it’s not required.  I like to know where my next meal comes from.

After arriving in Room 1 and taking a luxurious soak in the bath tub, I was ready to relax in my room and take in the stunning views.  By that time, the weather changed, and it became a rainy and extremely stormy rest of the afternoon.  From the bed, I could look out to the Islay lighthouse, and watch the ebbs and flows of the stormy sea.  So relaxing. 

And the next thing you know, it’s time for dinner. 

4. Dining at the Port Charlotte Hotel, Islay

Even before I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I already heard about its legendary meals. Chef Chris Martin is the brainchild behind the hearty and delicious traditional Scottish fare at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

Below is a collage of my meals during my stay.

Since I don’t know if you’re viewing this on your phone or a laptop, i’ll just share what you may find in these photos:

• two full Scottish breakfasts – why two? because they were both AMAZINGLY delicious and I obviously had to share;
• the interior of the restaurant in the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay;
• Dinner consisting of:
  • hand dived scallops with black pudding bonbon,
  • chocolate lava cake for dessert,
  • a rob roy chicken (don’t know what that is? I wrote about it before, here);
• Another dinner consisting of: seafood chowder (smoked haddock, salmon, prawns), and traditional fish & chips (Islay ale battered haddock).

Do you see what I mean about the delicious food on offer at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay?? Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, the restaurant is an institution on Islay and you just absolutely have to eat there!

The menu changes per season and dinner mains range from 14 GBP to 30 GBP ($19 USD to $40 USD),

For those on Islay now, they’re currently open for takeaway!

5. The Port Charlotte Bar

If you wanna experience village life, there is no better place than the bar at the Port Charlotte Hotel. Don’t let the photos lead you astray. It was empty in the below photos only momentarialy, and then locals and tourists alike began to meander in. Warmed by the roaring fire and smokey, peaty whiskies, this was the perfect place to spend an afternoon while the rain and wind kept most of us inside.

I was in the mood for a peaty whisky to warm me up. It’d been a driech few months of rain and wind, and that day in Islay was no different. Gary, the bartender, recommended the Ardbeg 10. He served it alongside some pleasant conversation. Gary is a former police officer (not from Islay), who walked into the bar five or six years ago, and as the story goes, he never left.

Back to the Ardbeg 10. Vanilla and heavily peated, with a finish that’s been described as,

“Long and glorious; sea salted caramel and beach bonfire smoke.”

Master of Malt

Perfect for a cold and windy Islay day.

6. Distilleries and brewery near Port Charlotte Islay

If you’re staying on Islay, of course whiskies or other adult beverages have to be on your itinerary. Here’s a list of all the whisky and gin distilleries, and one craft beer brewery, on this side of Islay. Easily to reach from your comfy, cozy room at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

6.1 Kilchoman – Islay’s Farm Distillery

I had the pleasure of touring Kilchoman when I visited Islay in July 2020. Known as Islay’s farm distillery, Kilchoman is proud to grow most of their own barley on their farmlands. I bet you didn’t realize that most of distilleries buy their barley! Not only that, Kilchoman is one of the only distilleries that still has a traditional malting floor, to malt their own barley.

Not only did I tour the distillery, but I also did a tasting on the beach at Machir Bay with them. It was an absolute joy and highly recommended when the weather warms up! Loved trying their Machir Bay single malt in Machir Bay!

6.2 Bruichladdich Distillery

I first became familiar with Bruichladdich, when a friend brought their famous blue “The Classic Laddie” bottle back from a duty free shop in the airport. The distillery produces three different brands of whiskies, which ranges from unpeated to super heavily peated whiskies:

• Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) – an unpeated, single malt Scotch;
• Port Charlotte – the heavily peated, single malt;
• and Octomore – the super heavily peated, single malt.

Currently, the distillery is closed to visitors (due to pre-planned construction in 2020). But is anticipated to reopen in 2021!

The Botanist Gin from Bruichladdich

One of the things I really wanted to do on Islay (but no, coronavirus had other plans) was to go on a foraging walk with the people who make The Botanist Gin. Made with 22 types of botanicals by the people at Bruichladdich Distillery, The Botanist is one of two Islay gins.

To me, gin is more of a spring and summer drink. Can’t wait for some warm sunshine to go with a refreshing G&T!

6.3 Nerabus Islay Gin

The other gin produced on Islay is from Nerabus. Their shop and visitor center is located in Bridgend. Not really on the Rhinns peninsula, but pretty darn close!

I’ve never tried Nerabus Gin, but it is the only dedicated gin production on Islay! Made in small batches with luscious spring water on Islay, Nerabus gin is infused with wild Islay heather.

6.4 Islay Ales

Well, if Nerabus Islay Gin is not technically on the Rhinns peninsula, then neither is its neighbor – Islay Ales. But, in the spirit of spirits on “this side” the island, Islay Ales is the only brewery on Islay.

Their beers, like whisky, comes from barley. The barley in Islay Ales – yep, you guessed it – comes straight from the island.

You can fine Islay Ales across the island and enjoy a tasting flight at the brewery itself. Here’s me, cheersing the island, with their Big Strand Craft Lager.

7. Other things to do near Port Charlotte Islay

1. Take a stroll on the beach! Machir Bay and Saligo Bay are nearby. White sands and clear blue waters sound more like the Caribbean than in Scotland. Don’t let the moody backdrop of the sky fool you – it’s gorgeous in any weather.
2. Go back in time with a vist to the Museum of Islay Life, right in Port Charlotte.
3. Go way further back in time, at the Kilnave Chapel and Cross. The chapel dates to the late 14th century, whereas the cross was built between the 5th – 8th century.
4. See some seals lounging around in and around Portnahaven and its neighboring village, Port Wemyss. Stroll along the coast to see views of the Rhinns of Islay lighthouse.
5. Spend the day observing some wildlife at Loch Gruinart nature reserve.

It’s easy to venture beyond Port Charlotte and the Rhinns to the rest of Islay. To help plan your trip, check out my Ultimate Guide to Islay.

8. Parting thoughts on my stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

If I could sum up my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay, I’d have to say it was:

cozy

homey

warm

delicious

If this is what you’re looking for, with a side of a lively village bar, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay is absolutely your place!

9. Important details for your stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

Port Charlotte Hotel
Port Charlotte,
Isle of Islay,
PA48 7TU.

Contact:
Email: info@portcharlottehotel.co.uk
Tele : +44 01496 850360

Cost:

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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