Tasting Menu &#8211; Lannie's Food & Travel

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone. She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night! She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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A wintery night at Inver: a record player, 2 picnic baskets, and an iced out valley

Lannie — Wed, 25 Jan 2023 07:29:23 +0000

I’m back with a winter foodie adventure, to Inver – Scotland’s first Michelin Green Star restaurant! Tucked away on the Cowal Peninsula, Inver is located in Strachur, Argyll & Bute on the west coast of Scotland – along the banks of Loch Fyne. Co-owners Rob Latimer and Pam Brunton took over Inver in 2015, and since then, it has become legendary under Chef Pam’s direction. Words like “sustainability” and “local produce” are their ethos, years ahead of the rest of the world.

And with Scotland’s incredible larder on their doorstep, there’s no wonder that Inver is globally recognized for their food. In 2021, Inver was awarded the first Michelin Green Star in Scotland. In 2022, Inver retained its Michelin Green Star and on top of that, the National Restaurant Awards awarded Inver the Best Restaurant in Scotland!

Inver in the snow.

The Michelin Green Star is a new designation from Michelin Guide which celebrate the importance of sustainability in gastronomy.

They hold themselves accountable for both their ethical and environmental standards, and work with sustainable producers and suppliers to avoid waste and reduce or even remove plastic and other non-recyclable materials from their supply chain.
What is a Michelin Green Star – Michelin Guide

First rolled out in 2020/2021, Inver is still the only restaurant with a Michelin Green Star in Scotland. Across the UK and Ireland, the vast majority of Michelin Green Star restaurants are in England (27 restaurants), whereas Wales, Ireland, and Scotland each only have one.

Before I continue, I guess I should preface this by saying, this is more of a winter adventure than a foodie adventure. If you want to skip to the good part, check out my full Inver tasting menu experience from March 2023.

1. A Winter’s Tale at Inver

I write this as another “bomb cyclone” just hit the United States… When you book anything in the middle of December, there’s always the chance that a big snowy or cold surprise could derail that. However, typical coastal locations in Argyllshire (Scotland) are usually a few degrees too warm for snow. Rain yes, snow, mm, sometimes.

This also means that coming from Islay, it was raining… which is not unlike your average Monday. Road conditions on the mainland were snowy but pretty good. And luckily, the turn off for Inver was before good ole “Rest and be thankful” on A83 – a section of the road so terrible that it’s a regular source of humor and conversation within the community.

When I arrived at Inver, housed in a former crofter’s cottage, I was taken aback by the stunning views of Old Castle Lachlan and the quiet surrounding the loch. I was met by Rob, who brought me indoors into the bright and cozy lounge. Unfortunately, he and Pam decided to cancel and close for the evening. They tried to phone me and the other guests, but couldn’t reach us. Some pipes in the bothies had burst, and with the drop in temperature forecasted, the narrow, windy country roads were sure to freeze.

Rob explained that the local area usually stays warm enough, being next to the coast, where there is rarely snow or ice. But with a freak winter storm, this was the first time they’d had snow since they took over. To get to Inver, there is a little valley the road cuts through. Within the valley, a little microclimate in itself, the temperatures dip a few degrees colder than the surrounding area. The snow on the ground turns to mush, and with the dip in temperature, the valley would definitely ice over and become the most treacherous local section. Everyone who worked at Inver lived on the other side of the valley. And if they couldn’t prepare something for me for dinner, food was also on the other side of the valley.

When I departed the following morning, the roads were still pretty icy, and I can fully confirm the iced out valley that Rob warned me about!

But, I would have a place to stay that night.

So, with a roaring fire Rob bid me a temporary adieu to figure everything else out.

2. Staying at Inver – my Luxury Bothy

When dining at Inver, you have the option to stay the night in one of a handful of luxury shepherds huts or bothies. Designed by Pam’s father Rodger, these huts and bothies include large glass windows to bring in ample light in a warm, Scandinavian setting. My bothy came with a bathtub (yessss), a record player (with a collection of records), a table and 2 chairs with a view, and an enormously comfortable bed. It felt spacious and luxurious. The bothy itself was snug and toasty, despite the cold snap outside. All I wanted to do was coorie in.

“Coorie in”: Scots phrase meaning to snuggle in, or to be cozy

I settled into my seat with the view of Old Castle Lachlan, with my glass of red and some old jazz playing on the record player, toasting all the unexpected things in life. A few hours later, in what felt like a coordinated “Be Our Guest” delightful whirl, Inver staff danced into the bothy with 2 picnic baskets – one for dinner, one for tomorrow’s breakfast. The last staff lingers outside the bothy at the door.

He pops his head in – “Don’t forget the pudding later!” he says as he drops a bowl of ice cream in a mound of snow at the doorstep. In a whirl, he’s gone into the darkness.

You can’t help but smile at the irony. Too cold and icy to drive, perfect for a Michelin green star ice cream, left in the snow.

The dinner shuffle quickly exits, with everyone’s warmest wishes and apologies for the evening. The picnic will be great, I say with a smile, while bidding them good night.

And it truly is.

3. My dinner picnic basket from Inver

Don’t think that just because it was a picnic dinner, it was lacking in any way! It was not! Along with a typed menu for the evening, containers contained wee instructions to assemble the course.

Bread sticks & yeast glaze, sourdough miso dip – the most delicious sourdough miso dip known to mankind!
Onion soup – savory and creamy, and piping hot out of the thermos.
Sourdough bread & Inver butter – enough to save some for breakfast!
Dressed loch Fyne crab, sea buckthorn, & fennel, with herring roe – a light and lush addition to my dinner picnic!
Ardyne Farm pork sausage roll – gorgeously delicious pork sausage, with crisp and light pastry. Perfect for a cold night!
Buckwheat ice-cream & late autumn fruits (with some puffed buckwheat to “sprinkle on the pud”!)
Ameretti biscuits
Hand-made Scottish chocolates

The dinner was a vibe unto itself. Pitch black outside, with snow and ice covering the ground. Inside, it couldn’t have been more different.

A record player setting the mood with some jazz, a tall glass of red, and a Michelin green star picnic in a luxury bothy.

As far as snow days go, this one isn’t bad!

4. Breakfast picnic basket from Inver

The coziness of the bothy just means that there are inherent challenges getting out of bed. That’s ok – some mornings are made for basking in the comfort of a slow, winter’s day.

For my breakfast picnic, behold the local delights Chef Pam and her team prepared:

Sourdough, Inver butter & jam
Boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt
Inver potted trout – my favorite of the breakfast items. I never knew I would be a “fish for breakfast” kinda gal, but this was absolutely stunning spread over the sour dough bread with some butter. In addition to the trout roe, the herb salt, and that rich Inver butter… it was chef’s kiss delicious!
Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
Inver cardamon yoghurt & autumn fruit compote
Fresh fruit
Orange juice

It was a wonderful breakfast, without any hot foods, but 100% not lacking in any way. By the time breakfast was over, I was beaming with gratitude that despite unforeseen circumstances, I could still enjoy such an incredible stay at Inver.

5. Meeting Chef Pam Brunton

Many foodies would jump at the chance to have a 1-on-1 conversation with a world renowned chef. Spending any bit of face time with someone that talented is always exciting. I imagined being wide-eyed, dreamy, and salivating hearing about local cheese producers or local farmers or fisherman. Of course, those conversations didn’t take place because of the big winter detour.

During what must have been a stressful afternoon for her, the one thing I remember about Chef Pam is her incredible laugh. Spirited and boisterous, her laughter fills the cold winter afternoon with warmth and comfort.

But really, what else could we do in the face of this situation, but laugh? Well, I’ll tell you what I did. And Pam had the same idea for me. Bottle of wine? 100% yes. That’ll do just fine, cheers!

Cheers to Rob and Pam Brunton, and the Old Castle Lachlan

Parting Thoughts on my Dine and Stay at Inver

For a business that just had to do the unthinkable and cancel services due to weather, Rob and Pam still made it a wonderful evening and overall stay. Their sense of hospitality runs deep within them, and even in surprising circumstances, they still made it a lovely experience!

The picnic baskets were a thoughtful addition to what could have been a ruined evening. In reality, nothing in the picnic baskets felt like an afterthought. There were no mismatched cutlery or plates or bowls. Even the thermos which kept the onion soup piping hot was in the same Scandinavian chic, muted color palette as the rest of the bothy. All of the jars and containers for the dishes and all of its accouterments were glass or otherwise reusable. It goes without saying there were no single use plastics found anywhere in those chic, delicious, and super sustainable picnic baskets.

The food was exquisitely delicious for a picnic, and it makes me look forward to when I can return in March 2023 and try it in full. I imagine it will be an exquisite experience! Stay tuned for the updated “real” Inver experience!

I did return in March 2023, and it was INCREDIBLE. Get the full details!

Information on Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh

Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (one with a bath)
Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking. However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

If this type of luxury dine and stay in Scotland is your thing, be sure to also check out:

Monachyle Mhor – hidden away in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park;
The Peat Inn – a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms near St. Andrews – a wonderful stay with a wonderful meal!
Kinloch Lodge – a charming lodge on the the Isle of Skye;
and Glenegedale House – a luxury B&B on Scotland’s whisky island known for their hospitality and food!

Or if you’re simply on the hunt for incredible food in Scotland, might I suggest this delightfully curated list of the best seafood platters in Scotland or seek inspiration from my recent trip with some peerie stories of Shetland food.

Until next time, stay safe and eat delicious food!

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Unpopular opinion: Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Lannie — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 18:32:19 +0000

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Unalome, a one Michelin-starred dining experience in Glasgow. Having only opened their doors in June 2021, Unalome by Graeme Cheevers earned their Michelin Star within one year of opening. For someone who enjoys fine dining in Glasgow, I knew it was only a matter of time before I prioritized this restaurant for a visit!

In some of my normal fine dining “review” posts, I normally let the pictures speak for themselves. However, there is a bit more to be said this time.

The lighting in the restaurant was too dim for the newest of iPhones, so excuse the photo quality, but perhaps that in itself is foreshadowing.

the amuse–bouche

1. Not given the option of a tasting menu

Typically, when I go to restaurants like Unalome, I am dining alone. And while it may be unusual, this solo diner enjoys multi-course tasting menus. À la carte options are typically available, as well. This time, when the menu was brought out, I was only given the à la carte menu. Tables nearby had a trifold menu where I overheard diners discussing the vegetarian or normal tasting menu options. However, my menu was only bifold giving me only à la carte options.

Subsequent internet research confirmed my suspicions of a tri-fold menu, giving non-solo diners the option of the tasting menu.

I didn’t ask – I mistakenly assumed that the à la carte and tasting menu had the same items on it. However, when I ordered the tasting menu, there was a little surprise from my server, but also no additional effort to show me the tasting menu either.

It’s also confusing that the à la carte menu says its 90£ per person, when the tasting menu is priced at 110£ pp. Why would the à la carte be charged per person?

2. Eating my tasting menu blind

Mackerel Tartare and Gigha Oyster

Not having the menu was a real miss for me. I genuinely enjoy referring back to the menu and seeing if there were flavors that I overlooked in the first bite. It also took away from the built up excitement for the next course, as well.

I’m not sure if it’s the discomfort of a solo diner – I am all too familiar with this… Or that they were trying to give me space to enjoy my meal in peace. Either way, I felt that the team spent less time explaining the nuances of each course to me.

the “Sample Tasting Menu” from the website

Recall too, that I am eating these courses blind – having not received the menu… Later, I found a sample tasting menu online. But in the moment, in the absence of a physical menu to refer to, the descriptions when the courses arrive should help to supplement that. While I don’t expect the wait staff to explain every foam, every flower, or every puree in each course, I do hope for a little more explanation. I overheard servers going into far more detail about each course and each item on the plate for other diners.

I tried to prompt my servers by asking questions as they checked on me, showing interest in the ingredients and hoping for more detail at the next course. But, it didn’t quite work either.

3. I would’ve chosen different plating

Another thing that I found a little odd about my dining experience were the plating and cutlery (silverware) options provided. It’s one of those things where if it’s done properly, you don’t think about it during your meal. But in reality, people spend effort in carefully and thoughtfully selecting the right bowl or plate for the particular dish. My issue with this was that there were a few courses that were soupy or foamy in nature. However, these were served in large, shallow pasta dishes (essentially). It was really difficult to get the most out of your course in such a shallow dish.

There was one course, where I really wanted a knife to cut the 2 small potatoes. Instead of a knife, I had a fork and a spoon (the rest of the dish was foamy and soupy). Not wanting to put a large chunk of potato into my mouth, I tried to carefully slice it with a fork and a spoon. There is no graceful way of doing this, and my spoon clamored down onto the plate with a thud both times I attempted this.

Luckily, it wasn’t just me. When nearby tables were served that course, I heard the familiar, loud thud as the spoon hit the plate.

4. Not the most creative dining experience

Besides the incredible food, part of the fun of fine dining experiences is the sheer creativity that chefs employ in imagining and creating their courses. Seeing how a chef can excite all your senses, not just taste, is what sets them apart in a league of their own.

However, 3 back-to-back courses were foamy and soupy.

The Orkney scallops had a white foam, along with pumpkin purée, pumpkin seed pesto, and maybe pickled pumpkin;
Wild Perthshire Mushrooms, also had a white foam, a garlic soup, and two delicious but unknown sauces;
North Sea Cod Loin with a white foam, and a cauliflower puree.

Don’t get me wrong, the flavors were rich and interesting, but the white foamy excitement of the Orkney scallops became a tired foam after the 3rd foam course.

Orkney scallops, white foam
Wild Perthshire mushrooms, white foam
North Sea cod, white foam

5. Not paying homage to their food producers or sustainable food practices

“From our hand dived scallops to foraged cep mushrooms, we are passionate about sourcing the best ingredients, sustainably.”

I’m surprised to find this quote on their website, under the Sustainability section.

Part of the reason that I love the food experience in Scotland is this beautiful relationship between chef and food producers. Other restaurants have regaled me with tales of the farm that they get their fresh flowers from, or the fisherman that have supplied them with the freshest catch over the years. In some rare cases, I can even give you the name of the individual who hand dived the scallops on my plate. I mean, I did just travel to the end of the world to Shetland to meet the people behind the food there.

These are the stories that I live for in my food experience. The stories that humanize my food experience. To recognize the beauty and importance of every contribution in the local supply chain.

Even with the “Wild Perthshire Mushroom” course – I’d like to assume it was foraged in Perthshire’s big tree country, but even then, that’s an assumption. This would have been a good course to talk about sustainable food practices.

There are some restaurants that can weave these stories seamlessly throughout the dinner service without a second thought. And then, there are those restaurants that leave you guessing and scouring the internet for answers.

Michel Cluizel White Chocolate Parfait

Parting Thoughts and lasting impressions on Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Now at the end, I should start at the beginning.

the Unalome symbol

Dear folks at Unalome, if you would like to take this moment to have a conversation about the cultural and solo dining aspects of the menu or my experience, I would welcome that wholeheartedly.

Unalome (pronounced oon-a-lome) – the word itself is a Buddhist symbol which represents the winding path of life, which leads to an individual’s enlightenment.

As someone connected to the Buddhist community (I am not an actively practicing Buddhist), this symbol and its elegant representations feel misused as a brand name for a restaurant that doesn’t even explain its significance. To be honest, it feels almost as bad as backpackers in Bali or Bangkok who get this “cool” symbol tattooed on their body. But Unalome (the restaurant) has nothing to do with the symbol. They’ve just taken the word – the name. I’m fighting the urge to say that the name has been bluntly appropriated from Buddhist culture, with no regard to its meaning or significance.

Not knowing much about the chef’s culinary background, maybe Buddhism did inspire him to name a restaurant after a religious symbol… and if that’s the case, then PR needs to do a better job of communicating that.

“Traditionally a Buddhist symbol, Unalome, is Chef Graeme Cheever’s first solo venture providing a season and modern European menu, that have been inspired by Japanese culture and cooking.”
– blurb on the menu

A culturally sensitive person would not have began the restaurant introduction with the words, “Traditionally, a Buddhist symbol, Unalome…”. Let’s be very clear. It is not “traditionally” a symbol – it is a Buddhist symbol. Not traditionally, always. There is no other use for it other than Buddhist symbolism. Period.

(Plus, the symbol is an actual graphic shown above, not the name. Are we pretending that the name, Unalome, is the symbol?)

I am also cringing at the suggestion that naming the restaurant after a Buddhist concept has anything to do with the Japanese culture that inspired the menu. Not all Japanese are Buddhist, not all Buddhist are Japanese. And conceptually, Unalome (the symbol) is not a Japanese concept – it is Buddhist.

Can we please not mix and match Asian cultures and religions as we see fit?

As I went back through my photos and notes on this meal, I realized that my experience at Unalome was probably doomed from the start.

“More than just an occasion restaurant, Unalome by Graeme Cheevers is about sharing in the experience with friends and family.”
– blurb on the menu

Not everyone has the blessing or fortune in life to always share great experiences with friends and family. I wasn’t able to have anyone join me for dinner that evening, and 98% of the time I am a solo diner. But this blurb, while trying to be inclusive, missed the mark. The shared experience of Unalome with your friends and family specifically excludes one demographic –

Solo diners, i.e. ME.

“Thank you for joining us on the path to enlightenment.”
– blurb on the menu

By closing the menu blurb with the only reference to the meaning of the Unalome symbol (without explanation), you’ve diminished the symbol and a name to the punch line of your restaurant. When you are thanking me for joining you on this path to enlightenment, are you bowing at me with your hands in a praying position as well?

My dining experience at Unalome has nothing to do with enlightenment.

Sure, some dining experiences can be transcendental – but not this one.

To close, I would not pay 110£ in the future for a meal that left me confused and utterly disappointed, and reeling with twinges of cultural insensitivity.

Do yourself a favor and go around the corner in Finnieston to The Gannet, which is arguably a higher caliber meal in every respect. I haven’t written about my experiences at the Gannet because I’ve been busy this year, but The Gannet is everything that Unalome is currently not.

Or, if you’re looking for other fine dining experiences in Scotland that left outstanding impressions on me, check out:

Inver Restaurants & Rooms – the only Michelin green star awarded restaurant in Scotland!
Kinloch Lodge, award winning and tucked away on the Isle of Skye;
A hidden gem in the Trossachs, Monachyle Mhor;
The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – tasting the land and the sea;
and, coming soon – The Glenturret Lalique – the only whisky distillery with one Michelin Star.

Thank you for reading my unpopular opinion of Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, and a special shout out to the Twitter community for their encouragement to write about my experience!

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Monachyle Mhor: An alluring hidden gem in the Trossachs

Lannie — Fri, 26 Jun 2020 16:45:21 +0000

The remoteness of the Scottish Highlands is a delight, but sometimes I do miss some creature comforts. It surprised me to find out that the Scottish Highlands are actually home to several high end restaurants. Once I found out that an unpronouncable place called Monachyle Mhor was under an hour away, I set out with a plan to go for a nice meal.

I think it is pronounced MON-a-HYLE MORE.

This all took place last summer, when I holidayed in Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park. If you’re picturing gorgeous blue lochs, luscious green hills, beautifully tusselled hilly coos – you are not wrong!

From where I started in Aberfoyle (the Gateway to Loch Lomond & the Trossachs), it was a a 55 minute drive on winding roads through small hamlets, large hills, and alongside several stunning lochs. Towards the end of the trip, it switched to single track roads. It was so remote and it looked so lush, that I pulled over the side of the road to take a moment and enjoy the scenery. There were zero humans around, so no risks. The above photos were from my drive.

Getting there, I used a combination of Google Maps and the GPS in my rental car. Both were wrong and stopped short of the actual destination. However, I did manage to see some roadside signs on the way that kept me hopeful. Plus, as I said, towards the end, it was just a single lane road. I had faith that if I hadn’t gone past it yet, I would reach it in due time. And I did.

Learn from my mistakes and endeavor to plan better than I do – get a tangible Ordnance Survey map of the Trossachs before setting out!

Monachyle Mhor: Restaurant & Hotel

Monachyle Mhor (Gaelic for the “great narrowing of the wetlands”) is a combination boutique hotel and upscale restaurant created by Scottish chef, Tom Lewis. What makes Monachyle Mhor special, besides it obviously being a pink house, is their commitment to locally sourced and farmed foods. Most meat and vegetables are raised and grown on their farm. When venison and pigeon are on the menu, they’re directly from the grounds, too. Seafood comes from a little farther, up in Scrabster in the Northern Highlands. Whatever isn’t used at the restaurant gets used in pies at Lewis’ Mhor Bread bakery in nearby Callander.

The interior design of Monachyle Mhor is modern, yet classic.

1. Amuse Bouche in the Bar

After arriving, the hostess escorted me to the bar as they prepared my table. Just as I was admiring the lush wood panels in the bar, a tray containing three items appeared before me. My amuse bouche.

From left to right,

a black pudding bonbon,
aubergine (eggplant) caviar,
haddock ceviche.

In hindsight, I wish I sought more clarity on the aubergine caviar to understand exactly what that meant. But in the absence of exact details, let’s just say all three were absolutely delicious – especially the ceviche!

2. Bread and a second Amuse Bouche

The wait staff asked if I made reservations. Since they’re not required, I did not.

Expert tip, if you make reservations, you’ll get seated in a gorgeous conservatory with huge windows (you see the lush windows in the pink photo above). But since their conservatory was full, I was seated in this room. All. By. My. Self. (cue Bridget Jones’ sad rendition of a Celine Dion classic)

Just as Celine’s song finished in my head, and Akon’s Lonely, began, out came some bread and my second amuse bouche. The bread selection comprised of a sourdough and some brown bread. As if homemade bread and butter aren’t the best things ever, add some expertly fried asparagus tempura with pea puree!

3. Starter: Monachyle venison

Monachyle venison, with radish from Comrie. Drizzled in a sauce made from Glengoyne 12 years old single malt scotch whisky, topped with haggis crumbs.

How’s that for a starter?

4. Palate cleanser: Celeriac soup

Just a little celeraic soup with pine nut dressing to cleanse my palate and prepare me for my main course.

5. Main: Tamworth pork

For my main dish, a mouth watering, expertly cooked Tamworth pork from Monachyle Mhor. Served on a bed of kimchi and Arran Victory potatoes, and topped with a sprinkling of black sesames.

Absolutely loved the Asian flair!

6. Dessert: Chocolate pavé

After finishing my main, a separate dessert menu appeared, with choices like:

Buttermilk panna cotta, Scottish strawberry, lychee sorbet
Chocolate pavé, hazelnut brittle, coffee gelato
Frozen cheesecake parfait, raspberry gel, garden rhubarb, oat praline
Spiced apple frangipane, flapjack, clotted ice cream
A selection of British Isles farm cheese, homemade oatcakes and chutney

Ok, with the photo and header above, you obviously know what I selected. But reading all the choices, could you blame me? Say chocolate and I’m already at attention. Add the word hazelnut and I obviously wouldn’t choose anything else. Top it off with coffee gelato? This is obviously a dessert made in heaven, and especially for me!

7. Petit fours

To pair with my shot of esprseso, some petit fours:

gingerbread marshmallow,
peppermint ganache,
Scottish tablet (i.e. fudge)

Parting Thoughts on Monachyle Mhor: Tasting Menu

At 65£ (approximately $80 USD), the dinner tasting menu at Monachyle Mhor was such a fantastic treat!

Given the remoteness of the Scottish Highlands and the slight weariness of too much pub food, Monachyle Mhor’s delightful tasting menu was the culinary highlight of my trip!

Don’t make the same mistake as me – make reservations so you can dine in that delightful, sunset basked conservatory!

Monachyle Mhor Restaurant Information

Monachyle Mhor | map
Hotel Bookings
Balquhidder
Lochearnhead
Perthshire, Scotland
FK19 8PQ
Phone: +44 0187 738 4622
Call to make reservations – highly recommended, if you want to sit in the gorgeous conservatory

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A decadent lunch at 21212

Lannie — Thu, 02 Apr 2020 15:40:06 +0000

Chef Paul Kitching suddenly passed away, which was announced by his wife and partner, Katie on twitter on 15 December 2022. What a terrible loss for the culinary world. Please join me in mourning Chef Paul. May he rest in peace.

Kitching’s partner, Katie O’Brien, has recently announced that 21212 (restaurant) will close and stop service beginning 1 April 2023. The rooms at 21212 will continue to be available for guests to enjoy.

(this post will remain for now as a tribute to Chef Paul and everything he has created. It may be taken down in the future)

This trip to Scotland has made me realize how much I really like Scottish food. There’s amazing Scottish breakfasts, desserts, scones, black pudding, haggis… mmm.. just thinking about it makes me nostalgic and happy. Besides more traditional Scottish fare, Edinburgh is also home to a few high end restaurants that deserve a certain level of fanfare, as well. 21212 is exactly one of those restaurants.

Chef Paul Kitching opened 21212 in May 2009. When I arrived for lunch in May 2019, 21212 was celebrating their 10th anniversary. At that time, they were also one of the few restaurants in Edinburgh with a Michelin star, which they’ve held from 2009 – 2019. The restaurant is located in a gorgeous, Georgian townhouse in Edinburgh’s New Town, with a lush dining room. 21212 is open Wednesday to Saturday.

For lunch, you can choose to have anywhere from a sensible 2-course meal for 28£, to a decadent 5-course meal for 55£. For the regular readers to my blog, it should be no surprise to you what I leaned toward the decadent side – the 4-course meal for 42£. In case you’re wondering where the name 21212 comes from, it is the number of choices per course.

21212 Tasting Menu

So, without further ado, here is everything I ate at 21212.

Amuse Bouche and Starter: Chips and Bread

The beginning of the 21212 tasting menu

The first thing to arrive was a small cup of potato chips. Light, amazingly fried – who could resist? For my British readers, I don’t mean chips (as in fries). I mean chips, as in “crisps”. Oh, the nuances between American and British English!

The introductory bread was made with spinach, red pepper, cheese, baked with fruit and fennel seeds inside. It was both fluffy and dense, and served deliciously warm. I definitely had more than one piece!

1st course: Kidnapped in Scotland

21212 Tasting Menu, course #1

Don’t let the name alarm you, though it is definitely alarming. On the menu, the description for Kidnapped in Scotland said only “Chefs Favourites.” Curious what it is? You certainly can’t tell from the photo. Here’s a little selfie of me during this course, to prove that I was not in fact kidnapped.

The main part of it (big photo) is smoked salmon with haddock haggis, topped with a mushroom parchment, There is also black pudding and mushroom soaked in Madeira. Loved the smoky flavors and the different textures! Absolutely delicious.

The second part (below the duck feet cup) could be eaten with the main, or on its own. Inside the duck feet cup, is a rhubarb, horseradish and caviar compote, paired with a sesame, strawberry pancake. There was another pancake you could choose from, but sesame and strawberry are some of my favorite ice cream flavors, so why not? It was light and crunchy, and went really well with the compote.

2nd course: Rainy allotment soup

21212 Tasting Menu, course #2

Looking back, I am kind of tickled with the names of their courses. The Rainy Allotment Soup? Gotta have it, considering how rainy Scotland really is. This soup was a foamy mushroom puree, with red pepper and cabbage. Foamy soups are kind of a thing now, and I am fully on board with this trend. Plus, not to mention, I absolutely love a mushroom soup!

3rd course: Chicken “Surprise”

21212 Tasting Menu, course #3:
Chicken (obviously), Hazelnuts, Garlic, Cinder Toffee

As you can see from the photo, there is a lot going on. Besides the menu description in the caption above, there were lots of other bits and bobbles that made up the dish. Somewhere in the photo, there is also a curry honeycomb, the obvious chive across the top, and some kind of beignet. For me, the chicken could have been cooked two seconds longer – the light rosiness in the center does not spark any joy in me. But this course was complex, unique, a little confusing at times, but nonetheless good.

4th (skipped) course: Cheese

If you want to go all in with the lunch menu, it also includes a cheese course. The menu described the cheeses included as “a fine Brexit selection.” See what I mean about interesting names here?

Between the main course and the dessert, they served me a palate cleanser. Sorry to say that I can’t remember what it was, but more importantly, how cute is this cow?

not crying over spilled milk

5th course: Yellow Pink White

21212 Tasting Menu, dessert: Lemon, Strawberry, Rice Ambrosia

Of the two dessert choices, of course I had to choose the one that included the word “pink”. Creativity is definitely a strong suit, here at 21212. There aren’t too many desserts, besides a strawberry ice cream, that would actually be pink.

Also, I never would have expected a dessert to include a drink, among other things. The drink was tart, but tasty. The rice ambrosia was similar to a creme brûlée, with carmelized sugar on top. The strawberry thing on top… I expected it to have a crunch. But it was more soft, in a “melts in your mouth” kind of way. The dessert was good, don’t get me wrong, but I think I would have liked soemthing richer – something more chocolatey.

Ahhh, I spoke too soon. Chocolate truffles and bark, with my espresso.

Parting Thoughts on 21212 Edinburgh

Overall, this was a great meal!! Although I selected the 4-course option, the 2 or 3-course options would have been equally as delightful, and more affordable for a lunch. At the time I ate at 21212, they still had one Michelin star. It makes me wonder what happened in the few months after I ate. I ate there in June, and by October, the star they held for 10 years was no more. Regardless of its star status, I would definitely recommend 21212 if you’re looking for a nice meal in Edinburgh. Given the creativity of the courses, the weekly changes in menu, as well as the absolutely gorgeous interior, it makes for a wonderful addition to your Edinburgh trip.

And with that, I will say ciao and happy eating!

If you’re planning to come to Edinburgh, how about considering:

taking the overnight sleeper train from London and arrive refreshed to start your Scotland tour;
a visit to Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the monarch in Scotland, and within walking distance of 21212;
trying more traditional Scottish food on an Edinburgh food tour;
enjoying incredible art (for free!) at the Scottish National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery.

Restaurant Details for 21212

Paul Kitching’s 21212 | map
Stay at 21212’s Boutique Hotel
Edinburgh New Town
3 Royal Terrace,
Edinburgh EH7 5AB, UK
Phone: +44 0131 523 1030
Open Wednesday – Saturday
Click to make Reservations

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Looking for another incredible tasting menu in Scotland? Check out Three Chimneys on Skye!

Three Chimneys on Skye: Delicious Tastes of the Land and Sea

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Pujol’s Taco Omakase

Lannie — Fri, 28 Sep 2018 15:37:06 +0000

Recently, I had the pleasure of trying Pujol’s taco omakase, or taco tasting. The brain-child of revered Mexican chef, Enrique Olvera, Pujol has consistently ranked in the world’s best 50 restaurants (right now, at #5).

When I was in Oaxaca in April, I visited Olvera’s restaurant, Criollo. Honestly, I wasn’t impressed with it. However, having a weakness for tacos, and wanting to see what a world class restaurant was like, I made reservations for Pujol’s 1:30 pm taco omakase. The reservations, made about a month in advance online, required a credit card number for a “guarantee” (in case I cancel..).

Location of Pujol

Pujol is in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City, on a side street (Tennyson) off of Masaryk. It was a nice walk down the shopping street, Masaryk, where LV, Gucci, Ferragamo and Starbucks are. I walked to Pujol from a morning visit to the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which was a nice 20-30 minute walk away, if you didn’t keep walking in circles like I did that day… But I digress.

Nestled on an unassuming street, you may not notice the entrance to the restaurant.

Arrival to Pujol Mexico City

Once inside, they seated everyone with the 1:30 pm taco omakase at the bar. Each course comes paired with a drink. The price is the same with or without the pairing. I’m not a big alcoholic beverage drinker, so as the post and the courses continue, you’ll see how my drinks fared.

Also, before I begin, a big shout out and thank you to Mike, the electrician from Houston, who was my taco tasting companion and source of conversation during the meal.

2022 update: Mike, the electrician from Houston, googled Pujol in Mexico City and found my blog! He emailed to say hello and that he found my post. Got to love the power of the internet!

Without further ado… the Pujol 8-course Taco Omakase.

1. Street Snacks

From L to R, baby corn, blue corn puff with artichoke and escamol, and tofu made from corn, with my first course pink cocktail in the background.

For local Mexican diners, the baby corn came with the husk intact, and the Mexicans next to me ate the husk. I didn’t realize it was edible! For us foreigners, the husk is peeled back and we only eat the corn.

Before we move on from the street snacks amuse bouche… The little blue corn puff… For those of you unfamiliar with escamol (the white toppings on the blue puff), it is a Mexican delicacy. Some people may be squeamish about it, but escamol is the edible larvae and pupae of ants. Yes, that’s right. Ant eggs. Before you say anything… let me just say one word. DELICIOUS!!!! Don’t knock it til you try it!

2. Uni, Beans Tetela

Inside the tetela was black beans. Served with a uni (sea urchin) pico de gallo. The uni pico de gallo was AMAZING, both on the tetela and on its own. My favorite course!!

For those of you new to my blog, I was particularly pleased at the uni dish being so delicious. To find out why, see my other post about sea urchins, here.

Drink Check:

This taco omakase makes sure your thirst is quenched too.

New addition: Atolli, Mexican Pale Ale. Made from corn. 2 courses, 2 drinks.

3. Eggplant Taco, Hoja Santa, Humus, Shisho

I spy a new drink – white wine.

4. Amberjack Taco, Avocado, Seaweed

(served with Mexican sake)

This looks like it’s smiling at me.

5. Scallop Tostada

(Dressed with lemon, sesame oil, and served with tequila)

Thinly sliced raw scallops lined the crispy tortilla, resulting in a delightfully fresh and crisp tostada. I’ve never had scallops or a tostada like this!!

More than half way through – let’s keep going on this taco omakase!

6. Seabass Taco al Pastor

7. Softshell Crab Taco, Cucumber, Shiso

I love soft shell crab and shiso peppers!! And the combination in a taco was amazing!! So delicious. Definitely my second favorite course!

Drink Check:

From L to R, drinks for courses 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3. Water on the very right. In here there is: tequila, mezcal, sake, rose wine, another beer and white wine. You can mostly guess which is which. However, since the liquors are all kinda clear colored, I kind of forgot. You’ll forgive me though.

8. Enmolada, Hoja Santa Tortilla

And now, for Pujol’s famous Mole Madre, aged 1681 days, or almost 5 years!! The flavor is much richer and tangier than the normal mole. I’m not a huge fan of mole in general, so this one wasn’t spectacular to me. It’s definitely unique, I’ll say that! From the NY Times’ T Magazine,

“Pujol’s mole madre is a contemporary version of [celebratory dishes]. Our own paste is reheated twice a day and is ‘fed’ with new mole whenever we are down to 10 liters. This Solera system gives us a mole that is exponentially more subtle and complex than your average mole. Additionally, since the mole is getting reheated through the months, ‘it has now been alive for more than 400 days’ the recipe adapts to seasonality and the ingredients change accordingly. It might have hazelnut or almond or macadamia or a mix of all three. The same is true for the tomatoes, the fruits, even the chiles.”

Since that review, the mole madre I tried had continued to age another 1,200 some days!

And with that nugget of information, the taco omakase finished on a high note of the legendary aged mole.

Dessert in the Garden

After, we were escorted out to the garden area for dessert. Enormously tall trees, surrounded by lovely greenery, kept us company during dessert. Delightfully charming outdoor area to enjoy our desserts. However, it was uncovered… and I understand that Mexico City is known for their notorious but reliable 5 -7 pm heavy rain showers (according to locals).

Sorry for the blurry pics!

9. Gaznate, Sake Kasu

From L to R: a plum, a cream roll, matcha green tea, and ice cream (i forgot the flavor) with ginger. In the upper right corner is the cloth napkin from our omakase, with a corn kernel pattern on it. They said we could keep it as a memento. Nice touch.

Even though the photo and description above goes L to R, we ate it R to L… They suggested it this way. Although the plum was good, I was quite disappointed that it was the end. Especially since I could have had the below pictured cream roll as the last delicious sweet taste in my mouth. But no. I was good at following instructions.

the plum, with some foreshadowing in the background

But just as my disappointment couldn’t be any greater, the wait staff shuffled out one by one. With Beauty and the Beast’s “Be Our Guest” playing in my head, out came the real dessert. You can see the beginnings of that in the background of my plum photo above.

And now, here is the real dessert.

The thinnest, lightest, most delicious fried churro I’ve ever had!!! This was definitely the best way to end the taco tasting… if it truly ended with the plum, this review would have gone sour at the end. But no! PUJOL’S TACO OMAKASE. AMAZING TIL THE END.

Parting Thoughts on Pujol’s Taco Omakase

I HIGHLY recommend trying Pujol’s Taco Omakase, if you:

want to eat at a world class restaurant
like tacos
want to try world class tacos
don’t mind dropping 2,998 Pesos | $160 USD for 8 tacos and 8 drinks
like having 8 different alcoholic beverages in one sitting (or if you don’t drink alcohol, if you like having 8 different non-alcoholic beverages in one sitting… btw, alcohol or not, the cost is still 2,998 Pesos)
are not afraid to eat ant larvae/pupae or sea urchins
want a souvenir (used by yourself) cloth napkin… (and finally)
don’t mind spending 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm eating lunch
WANT TO EAT AN AMAZING MEAL!

Restaurant Information

Pujol | map
Tennyson 133, Polanco
11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Phone: +52 55 5545 4111
Reservations Required
1:30 pm Taco Omakase 2,300 MXN | $115 USD
Prices, as of 20 April 2021

If using Uber, set the address to “133 Tennyson” (actual address), NOT “Pujol”, which will direct to their old location.

Need some help planning your foodie fun trip to Mexico City?

Luxury hotel suggestions:
- Hyatt Regency Polanco and JW Marriott Polanco are both within 10 minutes walking distance to Pujol!
- Centrally located in the Reforma neighborhood, Hilton Mexico City Reforma and Mexico City Marriott Reforma Hotel are also fantastic options.
More foodie adventure suggestions:
- Check out the Must-Try Street Foods in Mexico City from Chef Denise, including all the favorites I had on this trip!
- Instead of Pujol’s Taco Omakase, how about joining a Taco Crawl with a food critic?
- Join Candelilla, Mexico City’s hidden supper club;
- Experience a dinner exploring Mexico’s cuisine, from before and after Spanish colonization.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Keep Pujol Taco Omakase on your radar for later?

Ya, pin it for later

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Three Chimneys on Skye: Delicious Tastes of the Land and Sea

Lannie — Tue, 13 Mar 2018 23:36:46 +0000

There are some phenomenal restaurants on the Isle of Skye. For example, Michelin-starred Lochbay Restaurant is supposed to be wonderful, as is the Kinloch Lodge, located on the Southeast side of Skye. I didn’t get a chance to eat at either of those restaurants. But luckily my stay at Carter’s Rest on the Duirinish Peninsula was a 10-15 minute drive from another award winning restaurant – The Three Chimneys.

I would suggest making reservations, especially if you travel to Skye during the peak tourism months of April – September (ish).

Even though I was visiting during the off season, I made a 6:30 dinner reservation to make sure I could eat at this amazing restaurant, especially since it was so close to where I was staying. If you stay at The Three Chimneys hotel, they automatically give you dinner reservations during your stay. The hotel portion looks lovely from the photos online.

I arrived at the restaurant at 6:20. There is a small parking lot across from the restaurant. I imagine that lot would get full very fast, and the overflow parking is merely parking on the side of the road, which I am always loathe to do, for fear of parking badly and having another car hit me. I digress.

When I arrived at the restaurant, it was completely empty. I was literally the only person there. The wait staff were extremely friendly, and I asked them if it was normal for the restaurant to be this empty. Apparently people in the UK enjoy later dinners, and the waiter said by 7:30 or 8 pm, the place would be completely full. And sure enough, it was.

The interior of The Three Chimneys restaurant, before the normal dinner time in Scotland

There are two dinner menu options, the dinner tasting menu (3 courses for £69) and the Skye Land and Sea tasting menu (8 courses for £98). The restaurant requests that the diners at the table order the same tasting menu, probably to alleviate timing issues of one person having three courses and the other having eight. But, why eat three courses when you can easily have eight? So obviously, I selected the Land and Sea menu. Everything on that menu was either caught in the loch (lake) outside of the restaurant or farmed on Skye or in the Scottish Highlands.

Dinner tasting menu

Skye Land and Sea tasting menu

Three courses, versus eight courses. Your pick! Mine was obviously the eight courses.

Bread

First, they brought me some bread and butter. Full disclosure, even though I told myself I wouldn’t eat all the bread, I really couldn’t help myself. Foreshadowing: that was my mistake and I should try harder in the future not to stuff myself on bread and butter.

Two different types of sourdough bread and a rye + dark ale bread. There were two flavors of butter – the left was a claret or carrot butter (sorry, I really didn’t hear, but my first guess was claret. but I can’t be certain). the butter on the right was a delicious seaweed butter. Both were actually delicious, but I still couldn’t figure out what the first butter was.

1st course: Dunvegan Langoustine

Langoustine from the loch, with smoked cod roe, and a variety of carrots (dehydrated, pickled, and crisped). Side note, you’ll remember that langoustine is a favorite in Icelandic cuisine.

2nd course: Dunvegan Crab

Foam from the roasted Dunvegan crab with horseradish, dunvegan crab with salt baked turnip, and almonds. Delicious!!

3rd course: Sconser Scallops

Roasted scallop, on pork belly, with celery and grapefruit. with shrimp chip crumbles on top

4th course: Halibut

Seaweed wrapped miso halibut, with mussels, cockerels, and a fried oyster, on leek. This was probably my least favorite course, mostly because of the giant leek that the mussel was sitting on. I didn’t feel that it worked very well, and I don’t know – the leek flavor was a little too much for me.

5th course: Mallard Duck

Roasted duck, topped with coriander seeds. rhubarb and spring onions, on the side For me, there was a bit too many coriander seeds on top, but then again, I am the type of person that thinks there is too many coriander seeds in Italian sausage.

6th course: Skye Red Deer

Skye red deer, with roasted beet root, with ash sprinkled on top. a side of haunch hot pot (not pictured).

This was my least favorite plating – it makes a great photo, but it felt morbid, with the beetroot sauce splattered on the plate and the ash sprinkled all over. I’m not sure if my photo does it justice, but it felt like a vampire fantasy on a plate.

7th course: Lemon Cream

First dessert course – pistachio bread, with lemon cream sorbet, goat curd mousse, and burnt yogurt.

8th course: Baked Apple

Final course – second dessert – donut, with baked apple slices with java pepper crumble and cider cream.

I am usually one to finish everything on my plate, even if I am too full. But the above donut hole wasn’t anything particularly special, and after one bite, I decided to leave it be. The java crumble, however, was a surprisingly delicious peppery addition to the baked apple. Nice touch, Three Chimneys!

Parting Thoughts my dinner at Three Chimneys Skye

Although I was completely bursting by the end of the 8th course, the waitress came by with a box of chocolates. We both looked at each other, her seeing me miserably full, and began to laugh. But she told me, she understood, but I really had to try some of these chocolates. Her personal recommendation was the chocolate truffle and the sea salt caramel chocolate.

And although I thought I was so full that I could not bear it, it turns out there is always room for chocolate.

All in all, Three Chimneys offered a very unique and delicious tasting menu – the Tastes of the Land and Skye. It’s a wonderful introduction to local wildlife in Scottish cuisine. Definitely don’t eat too much of the delicious bread that they give you in the beginning, and you may stand a chance.

For other fine dining experiences in Scotland, be sure to check out:

Monachyle Mhor – spearheaded by Chef Tom Lewis, tucked away in the Trossachs;
Inver – Chef Pam Brunton’s Michelin Green Star winning dining experience in the heart of Argyll on the west coast.

Restaurant Information for the Three Chimneys Skye

Three Chimneys | map
Colbost, Dunvegan, Colbost,
Isle of Skye IV55 8ZT, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 1470 511258
Reservations Required

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Machneyuda: Restaurant Review

Lannie — Mon, 19 Feb 2018 20:00:09 +0000

I had about 36 hours in Jerusalem, with the first 18 or so hours during the Sabbath (the Jewish day of prayer). So my options for activities and food were limited, to say the least. But, following on advice from The Points Guy, and I quote,

“If you only have time for one meal, make a reservation at the restaurant Machneyuda.”
The Points Guy

I basically had time for one great meal. Obviously, I had to try to eat at the best restaurant in Jerusalem.

Machneyuda opens 1.5 hours after the Sabbath on Saturday. After googling, on February 17, 2018, the end of Sabbath was 6:04 pm. So by 7:15, I was sitting outside of the restaurant, hoping hoping hoping I would get a table. I did not make any plan B’s, such was the ferocity of my determination.

the lively interior of Machneyuda

Arrival to Machneyuda

It was a 6 minute walk from my Airbnb, which would have been fine, except that it started raining, literally the second that I started walking. With each step, the downpour got heavier and heavier. In my head, I considered turning around, giving up, and eating chocolate for dinner. But thinking of the points guy, I thought this was indeed my one open slot for a great meal in Jerusalem, I trudged onward.

When the doors finally opened around 7:40 pm, I immediately said I was looking for a table for 1, and explained how the reservation system did not work for reservations for 1. They said there was no availability and they were fully booked for the evening. But I was welcome to wait. I have to apologize for my behavior, because I suppose I could have been nicer. But the rain hampered my mood. I was waiting outside not more than 3 minutes when the host said there was a cancellation, and if I did not mind eating with another single traveler who also did not have a reservation, that we could share a table.

ENTER NEW FRIEND

As a solo traveler, this has happened in the past, and I was paired up with another woman. However, back then (in Rome) the other woman did not speak English. So we sat at the world’s tiniest table, NOT speaking to each other and NOT looking at each other while eating. LOL

The host and the waiter gave us a round of shots to show their appreciation for us sharing a table. Me and S already started chatting it up immediately and were both so happy to not have a dinner in silence. Plus, as The Points Guy accurately described, it felt like a raucous party inside.

I ordered the tasting menu, for 295 Shekels (which is about $84), and it was the most generous tasting menu I have ever had in my life. And you will definitely see how it is the best restaurant in Jerusalem!

Without further ado…

1st Course

Tuna tartare with “the worlds smallest tomatoes” and cream cheese.

2nd Course

Caviar paste, with olive oil, red onions, and tomatoes.

3rd Course

Yellowtail sashimi in a crispy “Indian” shell. I didn’t describe it as Indian, the waiter did. Not sure why it was characterized that way though…

I bet you’re thinking “oh, these courses look small and manageable.” All I have to say to you is JUST YOU WAIT.

4th Course

Beef tartare, with mint and almonds

5th Course

Tiny corned beef slider.

6th Course

Polenta, with asparagus, mushrooms, truffle oil and parmesan cheese, served in a jar .

And now, onto the main courses. Fortune favors those who don’t give up…

7th Course – Mains

Sea bass, mussels, with chick peas and a tahini Moroccan stew.

7th Course at Machneyuda Continues..

From courses 1-7, I had finished everything that you see before you. And then more arrives and I am at a loss for words. But if I had to describe it in one word, it would be MEAT.

Seventh course, part B. Lamb, rib eye, sitting on a leak, with mashed potatoes

Seventh course, part C. Beef.. something..and I don’t remember anymore. meat coma.

Are you alive still? I barely am, reliving this experience through photos. Are there more courses? Of course!

Dessert

I don’t know anymore!!! All I will say is that coconut ice cream in the lower left hand corner was SUPER FROZEN and did not melt, even when I ate it at the very end. Everything was delicious. Too. Delicious. Too. Much. Food.

Somewhere within the courses was another free round of shots, this time with Ouzo or Rakia…

Parting Thoughts on Machneyuda

Even though my dinner buddy did not order the tasting menu, her courses were equally as large, and we both were so full and satisfied by the end. And I am so glad we met!

Machneyuda was a fun dining experience to review, and it certainly lived up to the expectation of being the best restaurant in Jerusalem!

The rest of the restaurant was so lively with loud music, dancing from random people (living their best life), free shots and amazing food. And sorry for the dark photos!

I’ll end it here, with me and my new friend, S. I need a nap after this post. 🙂

Looking for something more low key? How about an introduction to Israel’s Street Food, from Anda at Travel for a While.

Restaurant Information

Machneyuda | map
Beit Ya’akov St 10,
Jerusalem, Israel
Closed: Friday dinner, Saturday lunch
Phone: +972 2-533-3442
Reservations – highly recommended!

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The very blue, Blue Lagoon

Lannie — Tue, 30 Jan 2018 16:14:06 +0000

During my 2018 solo journey, I began in Montreal, and then traveled onward to Reykjavik, Iceland. I was only spending the day in the South, before catching a flight to Akureyri (the capital of the North!)

The intention was to always spend the whole day at the Blue Lagoon, even though it was January and therefore dead in the middle of winter. But it turned out to be an absolutely delightful experience. And I made a friend – another travel blogger, Barbara, who was also solo traveling in Iceland.

Babs and Me, after the sun rose (kind of)

1. Important – Reservations for Blue Lagoon

You need to make reservations for entrance into the Blue Lagoon. Especially if you are going in the summer!! When I arrived (in winter), people were being turned away because it was sold out for the whole day. Book your tickets online here!

Also, there are several bus lines that will take you from the Reykjavik Keflavik Airport or Reykjavik town to the Blue Lagoon. BUT BEWARE – they don’t include entrance tickets to the Blue Lagoon unless you specifically include them.

2. Types of Tickets at the Blue Lagoon

entrance to the Blue Lagoon

There are three levels of tickets at the Blue Lagoon:

Comfort – includes entrance fees, Silica mud mask, towel, 1 drink of your choice;
Premium – all of the above, plus a second mask, slippers, a bathrobe, a reservation at Lava, and a glass of sparking wine at Lava;
Luxury Spa – from 372 USD per room. I’ll let you look that one up on your own.

In 2018, I paid about $100 USD for the premium package (and an extra add on of an airport transfer). Right now (as of March 2021), Comfort packages are listed at $61 USD, and Premium at $68 USD.

3. Arrival to Blue Lagoon

It was raining that winter morning. Our ticketed arrival time of 8 am meant that we began wading into the lagoon before sunrise, which would happen around 10 am. It’s a pretty amusing experience to have at least 50-100 people in this large geothermal pool, in the complete darkness and rain.

In-water bar at the Blue Lagoon. The most popular spot.

I won’t write too much about the Blue Lagoon, since every other travel blogger will tell you how amazing it was. But here are the things that surprised me about the Blue Lagoon:

It’s MUCH BIGGER than you imagine, and expansion is ongoing!
The photo posted above shows the area near the bar…which is why it’s so crowded! Since the Blue Lagoon is actually quite large, you can definitely find areas that are quieter, with less people.
There are several different areas, including a face mask stand. Silica mud masks are included, and algae mud masks for a fee. There are also steam baths, saunas, in-water massages, and a bar!
The silica, while great for your skin, is terrible for your hair! Days later, my hair still feels a little rough and a little grimey from the sediment. The Blue Lagoon warns you, especially if you have long hair (which I do), to condition your hair immediately before and after entry into the baths. (I took a break at lunch time and reconditioned my hair and again that night in Akureyri.) In total, I conditioned my hair at least 4 times that day!!! I don’t entirely remember, because I was going on no sleep at that point.

4. Lunch Tasting Menu at Lava

After Babs left, I had lunch reservations at the Blue Lagoon’s famed restaurant, Lava. I ordered the seafood, 3-course tasting menu, for 7600 ISK or roughly $77 USD.

My reservations were at 11:30. Besides a group that was still filing in, I was the first one seated. Furthermore, I was the first table to put in an order. (Can you see where this is going?)

Yet, would you believe, that between my first and second course, 5 tables of 2 or more people already received their entrée? And some tables had even finished and subsequently left? I tried to complain in a friendly way to the waiter, who promptly brought out my second course, post-complaint.

When the food finally arrived, I asked why it took so long. The waiter, poor guy, did not have a response, so I asked to speak with a manager about it. The waiter came back shortly and said that the kitchen brought out the food as soon as it was done. “Ok… May I still speak with a manager?”

I honestly felt like the manager did not want to speak with me. When he finally came, he was not apologetic in any way. He said that the kitchen timed it, and 14 minutes elapsed from when I finished my first course to when my main course was brought out. Other tables did not order the set menu, so their food came out faster. (That logic does not entirely make sense to me).

The manager accused me of being in a rush and not taking the time to enjoy the dining experience. I responded that I was in fact not in any hurry at all. Somewhere in our conversation, he received a phone call, did not excuse himself, and left mid-sentence.

In the meantime, I cancelled my dessert course and was annoyingly finishing my cod. The manager came back and jumped back into conversation. He says, of course, lunch is free. And that I did not need to cancel my dessert. He reminded me that he already explained the mechanics of the kitchen. Unfortunately, because I did not accept that explanation, there was nothing more to be done. And with that, he left.

1st course: Langoustine soup. Complimentary bread with house made butter (mixed with Styr Icelandic yogurt)
2nd course: Cod

Don’t get me wrong – the food was really very good. And the portions were generous for a tasting menu size. I did not expect this level of service for a place so reputable. In fact, my food tour guide in Akureyri, who is a trained chef, was immediately excited when I told him that I had eaten at Lava. After I recounted the story to him, he replied, “hmm, something does not sound right about that story…” AGREED

Blue Lagoon and surrounding area

5. Don’t miss your ride

After lunch, I went back into the lagoon to shake off the annoyance of before. Without Babs around, it wasn’t as fun as lively as the morning was. I got out early to shower and condition my hair and wait for my bus to the Reykjavik domestic airport.

I found my Flybus, off to the side, and the bus driver said we would not leave for another 45 minutes and instructed me to wait in the luggage storage area, where he would pick everyone up.

44 minutes later, and no bus, I walked outside, only to watch the bus fly by. They don’t call it Flybus for no reason… The bus was there, however, with a larger passenger bus completely blocking it out of view. At this point, I had no choice but to take a taxi to the airport, because although I had plenty of time, I did not have the time to wait for the next bus. Another 45 minutes? Perhaps an hour?

I knew the taxi ride would be annoyingly expensive, and sure enough, it was. $180 USD for a 45 km ride. Iceland, you’re killing me.

6. Departing Reykjavik

The Reykjavik domestic airport was a small, quite adorable place. The boarding area was separate, but the rest of the airport, check in, car rental, café, baggage claim, disembarking area was 5-in-1.

Not only that, but the plane itself was a propeller plane! I’ve never flown in one!

Air Iceland Connect, direct to Akureyri

Surprisingly it was a smooth 35 minute ride, in which I promptly passed out.

And now, onto Akureyri! Capital of the North.

Parting Thoughts on my day at Blue Lagoon

Despite having issues with my lunch, I genuinely had an amazingly relaxing time at the Blue Lagoon! There’s something so relaxing about wading around in hot water for long periods of time. (At least for me). If that’s not your jam, maybe skip the Blue Lagoon on your Iceland trip.

But for me, having been on horrible flights, and having not slept for days at that point, it was the relaxation and rejuvenation I needed to start a 3 month traveling journey!

For more information and bookings, visit The Blue Lagoon.

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Restaurant Review: Toque!

Lannie — Fri, 26 Jan 2018 09:44:54 +0000

Greetings, friends! Allow me to share my wonderful dining experience at Toqué! (exclamation point is theirs, not mine), which is located in downtown Montreal.

A post shared by Lannie Su (@lanniesu) on Jan 25, 2018 at 8:22pm PST

Colorful exterior of Toque! I appreciated the holiday lights, at the end of January

How I found Toque!

I’ve recently been doing “the Twitter thing”, so I tweeted to @Montreal asking for advice in this little exchange below:

Have you tried @RestaurantToque?
— Tourisme Montréal (@Montreal) January 7, 2018

This led to my incessant googling, where I found out about Toque!

It was the #1 restaurant in Canada in 2015 and 2016.
In 2017 and 2018, it was the #2 restaurant in Canada.
In 2019, Toque! ranked as the 3rd best restaurant in Canada.

I don’t see this as Toque slipping in quality, but rather it set the bar high for Canadian restaurants and inspired others.

Interior of Toque! with wine “cellar” behind the couple. It goes down at least two floors and is filled to the brim with wine.

In front of the main bar is a reindeer bar. I wish I could have stood there with my drink and looked cool.

What did I eat at Toque!

I chose the 7 course tasting menu, with or without foie gras (with of course) for C$136. It would be a chef’s choice surprise tasting. I was eating and texting with a friend, who called me “courageous” for going for the surprise. But at one of Canada’s top restaurants, you can’t go wrong. (Unless you have a pickle course, and then you CAN go very, very wrong.) So here it is, my 7 courses + amuse bouche + espresso + tasty treat at the end.

Amuse Bouche

Breadstick wrapped in pancetta with citrus mayo

1st course: Princess Scallops

Princess Scallops – blueberry water, shallot, kohlrabi, berry vinegar, mint mousse (official menu description). Instructions given: “take it, like an oyster shot”

2nd course: Arctic Char

Arctic Char – with kombu seaweed and green onions

3rd course: Foie Gras Terrine

Foie Gras Terrine – morello cherries, caramelized cocoa nibs, popcorn, cherry and Cabernet Sauvignon reduction. My favorite course! The crispiness of the cocoa nibs and popcorn paired perfectly with the soft terrine.

4th course: Venison

Venison – with artichoke, shiitake mushroom and potatoes. Delicious!!

5th course: Duck

Duck – with brussels sprouts. Perfectly cooked duck!!

6th course: Bailey’s Ice Cream Brulee

Bailey’s ice cream brûlée – with chocolate and maple crunch. Again, I really loved the maple crunch texture with the softness of the ice cream. This was perfect!

7th course: Molasses Cake

All I remember about the description of this course was: molasses cake. But I’ll provide a breakdown of the parts, in my own words:

Middle “dome” – coffee/chocolate flavored;
Tan egg – some flavor of ice cream;
The branches / sticks – cocoa dusted;
Tiny squares – light and crispy. No clue whatsoever …but it was absolutely delicious!

Dessert, to top it off!

The fanciest espresso goblet

Fudge squares and raspberry jellies

Parting Thoughts on Toque Montreal

Overall, the food and the service were excellent. I think my favorite courses were:

(1) foie gras terrine – not because it’s foie gras, and I love foie gras. But the POPCORN really added so much to it! The popcorn gave a new dimension of texture to the foie gras and added a lightness to counter the heaviness of the foie gras;
(2) the princess scallop, taken as a shot. The combination of the scallop, blueberry water, and mint mousse was so refreshing!

For the two dessert courses (6 and 7), I had the option of substituting one for a cheese plate. The waiter came up to me and said, “For the next two courses, you can choose between… cheese and dessert or dessert and dessert.” Well when you put it like that, OBVIOUSLY the choice is two desserts!

Before I end this post, I wanted to direct your attention back to the Bailey’s ice cream brûlée photo: See the gold patch in the corner? That’s Kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with lacquer dusted or mixed with powder gold. It’s also a philosophy on life, where nothing is ever truly broken. I kinda like that. Remember that next time you’re down. You’re never really truly broken, you may be different, but all the more beautiful.

And with that, it is 4:30 am, and hopefully time for bed. Good night, Montreal!

Restaurant Information:

Toque! | map
900 Jean Paul Riopelle Pl,
Montreal, QC H2Z 2B2, Canada
Closed: Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday
Phone: +1-514-499-2084
Reservations

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