1. Intro to the pyramid at Balmoral

This story starts at Balmoral Castle, a private residence of King Charles III. Prior to King Charles’ ascension to the throne, Balmoral was a favorite summer residence for Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth II passed away while on hoilday in Balmoral on September 8, 2022.

Back to Balmoral – it is a personal and private residence held in the royal family. This differs from Holyrood Palace, which is the British Monarch’s official residence in Scotland. You’ll often find the royal family at Balmoral during smmer holidays.

Back in 1852, Prince Albert (the beloved husband of Queen Victoria) purchased the castle and estate from the Farquharson family. The castle was soon deemed too small, and the current Balmoral Castle as you know it today was commissioned.

Queen Victoria was known for many things, but the things that stand out to me are:

• her longevity – she lived to be 81,
• her large family – by my count, she had 9 children,
• and her love for her husband, the prince consort.

Throughout Queen Victoria’s life, following their purchase of Balmoral, she began to erect stone cairns to commemorate the marriages of her children, and eventually the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.

2. But is a cairn a Scottish pyramid?

Not necessarily. A cairn (stemming from Scottish Gaelic word, càrn) is a man-made pile, or stack, of stones. Cairns have been around since pre-historic times and are still currently used as landmarks, often as trail markers, for commemorating events or deaths, or for ceremonial purposes.

Currently, there are 11 cairns erected in and around the Balmoral estate. 8 are to commemorate the marriages of most of her children. Why do I only say most? For unknown reasons, the Queen’s son, Prince Alfred is the only one who does not have a cairn dedicated to him. Most of these cairns are your quintessential man-made pile of stones, not quite your Scottish pyramid.

Ok, but why is there a pyramid in scotland? Obviously, the grandest of all the cairns, also known as the Balmoral Pyramid, is the one dedicated to the Queen’s husband, Prince Albert. The Prince Albert Cairn is the Scottish pyramid.

3. How to visit the Prince Albert Cairn?

The Balmoral Castle Estate sits inside Cairngorms National Park in the Eastern part of Scotland. The Scottish pyramid is located on the grounds of Balmoral Castle estate, in Royal Deeside, Aberdeenshire, in the Highlands. If you’re going to explore the area, it’s easiest to do so with a rental car. To visit,

3.1 Car Park for the Prince Albert Cairn

You don’t need to buy a ticket to Balmoral Castle in order to visit the Prince Albert Cairn – or any of the other cairns honestly. The only thing you need to pay for is parking. I can’t remember how much it was – maybe £2 – £4. It helps to have coins for the machine. But if not, easily fixable. You’ll just walk to the Balmoral Castle ticket office there and pay for parking. Be sure to walk back to your car and put the ticket in the window!

3.2 The first section / detour to Balmoral Castle

From the car park, you will cross a bridge over the River Dee. With the ticket office in front of you, (and Balmoral Castle to the right) turn left. This will start your path to the Prince Albert Cairn, also known as, your very first Scottish pyramid experience.

(Or, choose your own adventure! Detour to Balmoral Castle for an interesting audio guide, beautiful castle, and gorgeous gardens! Lots of walking trails on the grounds, as well – it’s worth the visit!)

The cost to visit Balmoral, based on their 2022 prices:

• Adult 16.50 GBP / 20 USD;
• Children 7.50 GBP / 9 USD.

Note: The real Balmoral Castle is not the filming location for Balmoral in Netflix’s The Crown. That was filmed in Ardverikie Estate (about 2 hours away).

4. Hiking the Prince Albert Cairn loop at Balmoral

You’ll notice the title of this section starts with “Hiking”. I mean it’s just that. A hike. This hike is also known as the Balmoral Cairns Walk, but in reality – it’s more than a walk. Prepare for a hike, knowing that Scotland can have all 4 seasons in one day. Bring plenty of water, and maybe a snack. The full loop of this hike is 4.9 miles (less than 8 km). You don’t have to do the full loop – the pièce de résistance (Prince Albert Cairn) is not the last cairn you see on this circular walk. Do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For me, I was determined to do the full loop. But I was particular exhausted on this hike, because I was carrying a lot of camera gear..as always! I would rank it as medium challenging. It was a nice, steady uphill. You’ll see different cairns along the way, and it’s generally really gorgeous.

From the frequent rain, at times the path was really muddy. Good hiking boots will help with the mud. (Mine are Merrell’s Waterproof Boots (UK) / (US), which are great and absolutely essential for the muddy peat bog that is Scotland.)

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After you’ve taken that left from the ticket office, you’ll walk seemingly on a road… (and yes, it is the B976 – don’t worry. traffic is scant… if any at all). The River Dee is on your left side, a field with some hilly coos on your right side.

If you see a bridge in the distance, it should be around the time you see a fork to the right and uphill. Fork! That’s the right direction. You’ll pass by the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and a few cottages along the way, and away you go!

And our first cairn along the way!

Dedicated to HRH Princess Beatrice,
Married to HRH
Prince Henry Maurice of Battenberg.
23rd July 1885.

After more uphill hiking and some delicious time spent forest bathing, the Scottish Pyramid comes into view.

The Prince Albert Cairn is perched on the top of the hill. The trees fall away, with the pyramid and the Cairngorms coming into view.

The Balmoral Pyramid, built from granite, stands at a height of 35 feet. The square base measures 41 feet x 41 feet.

I spent a lot of time around the pyramid. It’s really peaceful up at the top, and you have stunning views of the valley below. There is an inscription on the pyramid which says:

To the beloved memory of Albert the great and good, Prince Consort. Erected by his broken hearted widow Victoria R. 21st August 1862

I saw one more cairn for Princess Louise after the Scottish pyramid. It brought my total number of cairns on this loop to 3. I thought I would see more than that on this loop, or maybe I did but didn’t notice, being exhausted from carrying my extensive camera gear in tow. But, 3 out of 11 cairns ain’t bad! It was still a great hike and one worth doing!

If you’re looking for all of the cairns on the Balmoral site, you’ll be able to find:

• Diamond jubilee cairn, to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 year reign
• Princess Alice cairn
• Princess Helena cairn
• Prince Leopold cairn
• Prince Arthur cairn
• Purchase cairn, or the Ballochbuie Cairn, marks Queen Victoria’s purchase of the Ballochbuie forest in 1878
• and the Princess Royal cairn.

5. After your Scottish pyramid walk!

Don’t forget to check out Balmoral Castle, if you didn’t before your hike! There’s also a cafe there, in case you’d like a little, well-deserved snack.

Now, if you’re looking for something stronger, don’t forget – you passed the Royal Lochnagar Distillery on the way in. And since this is a loop, you’ll pass it on the way out!

5.1 The Royal Lochnagar Distillery

The Royal Lochnagar Distillery is based at the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside. It was awarded its Royal Warrant, following a visit by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and three of their children in 1848.

The Royal Lochnagar is a Highland whisky, which produces mostly for Johnnie Walker’s Black and Blue labels. It also produces single malt whiskies, as well. You can tour their distillery and enjoy their 12 year old, Distillery Exclusive Bottling and Selected Reserve, for 12£.

Learn more about scotch whisky in my introductory post on Islay, Scotland’s whisky island!

5.2 Highlanders Bakehouse

In need of carbs after that hike? Stop by the Highlanders Bakehouse to refuel and grab some baked goods for later. You won’t regret it!

From the Balmoral Car Park, Highlanders Bakehouse is across the street on A93, just 500 meters / 0.3 miles to the East.

6. Parting thoughts on my hike to the Scottish Pyramid

This was a really fun hike to do. I love that there are additional things to do along the Balmoral Estate, given that you’d already paid for parking anyway. For me, I visited Balmoral Castle in 2019, and really enjoyed the audio tour. The grounds are gorgeous and a delight. I absolutely loved the gardens!

For more hikes wherever you are, download AllTrails app!

I didn’t get a chance to visit the Royal Lochnagar Distillery. I think I’ll save that for next time! I’ve been in and around the Royal Deeside area a few times, and I seem to keep coming back! Every time I’m here, I stay at the Hilton Grand Vacations Hotel & Spa at Craigendarroch in nearby Ballater. With a pool and sauna, and within walking distance to the village, it’s my go-to place to stay!

Sure, most of the time I visit, I just go to the Prince Albert Cairn because it’s so wonderful. But there’s different hikes looking for different cairns! There’s plenty of things to explore at Balmoral – something for everyone!

For those foodies, when in Ballater:

• be sure to visit the Phoenix Chip Shop. During Queen Elizabeth’s reign, the footman from Balmoral would visit this local chippy for the Queen’s fish and chips. I’ve been a few times – it’s a great chippy!
• have a romantically delicious meal at The Rothesay Rooms inside the Old Royal (railway) Station. Under Head Chef Ross Cochrane, The Rothesay Rooms is included in the Michelin Guide and showcases fresh local produce with seasonal menus. Originally established by King Charles III (when he was Prince of Wales) to support the community after flood and fire tore through Ballater in 2015.
• for brunch, the Bridge House Cafe is my personal fave!

If you’re looking to travel to Balmoral / Aberdeenshire in style via a luxury, overnight train, the Caledonian Sleeper offers the only overnight route between Scotland and London. Save time and arrive fully refreshed for your onward travel!

• Be sure to check out my review for the Caledonian Sleeper! You’ll take the train from London Euston to Aberdeen.
• Or connect to Aberdeen via ScotRail in 2-3 hours from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness!
• From Aberdeen, you’ll take Stagecoach Bluebird Bus 201 from Aberdeen Union Square bus station to Crathie (Balmoral), which takes about 2 hours.

For other ideas for travel in the Highlands:

• Visit the site of the historic Battle of Culloden;
• Enjoy a chocolate tasting at an award winning highland chocolatier;
• Take a road trip on the North Coast 500, where you can visit the Castle of Mey – the Scottish castle purchased by the Queen Mother (as shown in Netflix’s The Crown);
• Eat at an award winning restaurant, Monachyle Mhor;
• Take a Day Trip to Orkney Islands!

OR if royalty is your thing, be sure to visit Holyrood Palace (located in Edinburgh), which is the King’s official residence in Scotland!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

• Islands, and therefore an ocean or sea;
• Interesting landscape that’s hike-able;
• Great cuisine, worth breaking keto for;
• Fresh seasonal fruit.

I think this is my personal recipe for ultimate rest and relaxation.  And if you are reading this post, there’s a large chance that you feel the same way.

1. Introduction to Mauritius

Mauritius is an independent island nation 1100 km | 700 miles off the coast of Madagascar in the South Indian Ocean, or 2000 km | 1100 miles off the coast of the African mainland.  Mauritius was an uninhabited island for many centuries.  Although people are not native to Mauritius, do you know what is?  The famous, but extinct, dodo bird. 

The old dodo called Mauritius home, until 1662 when the last one died. Drought, predation by rats, or settlers hunting dodos for food are the primary reasons for the dodo’s extinction. However, the culture and reverence of the dodo bird still continues to this day.

In the Middle Ages, Arab explorers visited the island, but did not stay. Portuguese explorers in the early 1500s did the same and had little interest in staying on the island. It wasn’t until the Dutch inhabited the island in 1638 that Mauritius developed an economy around ebony trees and sugar cane. The Dutch also gave Mauritius its name, after Prince Maurice of Nassau. By 1710, the Dutch abandoned their settlements.

Fast forward an occupation by the French, who brought African slaves to the island, and then a war with the British, that ended in French surrender after 5 days, in December 1810. When the British took over Mauritius, slavery was still ongoing, but by 1835, the crown abolished slavery in its colonies. Following the abolition of slavery, the British brought indentured servants from India to supplement the shortage of labor in the sugar fields. Unfortunately, the Indian indentured servants were not treated any better than the slaves.

By 1968, the British granted independence to Mauritius, with Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam as their new prime minister, and Queen Elizabeth II still retaining the title of head of state, and Queen of Mauritius. Since 1992, Mauritius has been a republic, independent of Britain.

2. Mauritius Conscious Travel

Disclaimer: This post is sponsored, in part, by Mauritius Conscious Travel.

As a true humanitarian, my trip was last minute, and I needed help with planning and booking.  And that’s how I found Mauritius Conscious Travel! Tailor-made itineraries and the focus on sustainable and eco-friendly travel drew me in immediately.  I gave them my dates and things that I liked, and they provided a sample itinerary immediately for review and updates.  We worked together to tweak it to my exact preference. The result was a Lannie-specific 7-day Mauritius itinerary, which focused on hiking and food. 

Included in my custom package:

• 7 nights lodging
• 7 days rental car (automatic transmission)
• Breakfast (every day), lunch (1), dinners (4), one food tour that can sustain you through lunch
• Entrance tickets or local guides for 6 activities
• Suggested activities for free days
• Donation to offset your carbon footprint
• Custom Google Maps for your trip

Excluded:

• Flights
• Travel insurance
• Petrol / gasoline for the rental car

Interested in a trip to Mauritius?
Contact them here and see a sample itinerary,
made just for my blog readers!

3. My Costs

• Travel arrangements by Mauritius Conscious: 1452 EUR | $1631 USD;
• Dubai to Mauritius round trip flight on Emirates (paid by my work): 4275 AED | $1163 USD;
• Kabul to Dubai round trip flight on Emirates (paid by my work): $442 USD;
• Petrol / gasoline for one week: approximately 2,200 MUR | $58 USD.

Total cost: $3294 USD.

4. Lodging

Everything is tailor-made on this trip! Including my choices for lodging, which comprised of local guesthouses with boundless hospitality, delicious local cuisine for breakfast and dinners, and lots of friendly, Mauritian smiles around.

For the first part of my trip, I stayed at a delightful guesthouse in historic Bel Ombre (“bell om” for those who want to pronounce it correctly). Located in the South, the guesthouse is situated on the property of an old Bel Ombre plantation. The stay also included free access of a nearby beach club, as well as entrance to the plantation house.

I absolutely loved staying at this guesthouse! Everything was so stylish and comfortable. The staff were amazing! Every morning, before I could function, they knew I would need a coffee, even before food showed up.

At this location, breakfast and dinner were included. Breakfast typically had made-to-order eggs, crepes, fresh breads and jams, and fruit. The dinners were amazing, and normally has a buffet of Mauritian, creole cuisine or barbecued, grilled meats. The last night I was there, they served a normal sit down dinner, of Mauritian cuisine.

For the second guesthouse, I moved to Belle Mare, on the northeastern coast of the island. Opened by a Thai and Mauritian couple, it was a hidden sanctuary in the tropics. The guesthouse was separate from another complex that housed the pool. The dining area was there too, with a view of the lake.

This location is great for those who want to unwind and take a break from the outside world. WiFi is only available in the public spaces and dining area, not in the rooms. Normally this is fine, as long as I’m mentally prepared for it. Unfortunately, I had work to do, so this made it a little challenging.

The meals at the guesthouse were also amazing! Dinners are usually a Thai and Mauritian mix, with one dinner having a chicken satay appetizer and some curries and cole slaw. Absolutely delicious! The breakfasts were equally as amazing, with a fresh fruit platter, crepes, and some eggs!

Click here to read about Mauritius’ COVID-19 Travel Update

5. Activities

5.1. Eau Bleu Waterfalls

My first day in Mauritius, fresh from Kabul and a long layover in Dubai, I landed at MRU at 09:00 AM. What better way to get rid of the exhaustion of travel than jumping into a fresh pool from a waterfall? I know not everyone is as adventurous as I am, but I cannot recommend this enough!!

Day 1 #Mauritius, a few hours after my red eye flight, I jumped in here. Literally. 🤩🇲🇺 pic.twitter.com/DTsekSRQrn

— Lannie (@lannietravels) February 22, 2020

My guide, Vik, and I did a mild hike to reach a secluded waterfall area, and took a break to jump in and relax. Vik is a part time hiking guide, who has a genuine passion for conservation. We picked up some trash along the way and took it with us when we left. We only have the one earth – we need to take care of it.

5.2. Ile aux Aigrettes

The next day was learning about conservation with a tour to Ile aux Aigrette, an islet off the east coast of Mauritius. The island is a nature reserve and has a research station for local flora and fauna. Ile aux Aigrette is also home to the last remains of the “dry coastal forest”, which before deforestation, covered all of Mauritius Island, as well. Unlike Mauritius, which is a volcanic island, Ile aux Aigrette was formed of calcified limestone layers over the centuries.

Similar to Mauritius Island, Ile aux Aigrette suffered in the past due to logging and land clearance. It wasn’t until 1965 when it was declared a nature reserve, that intense conservation of the island began.

Rose, our guide, taught us about the different species of plants and animals on the island, both existing and extinct. There is also ample bird watching available, but the real stars of the show are the tortoises that live on the island. The one below, next to Rose, is about 90 years old, and old George with me is 100+!

5.3. Blue Bay snorkeling, from a glass bottom boat

A short drive down the road is Blue Bay, the most beautiful waters you can find. Perfect for snorkeling, or relaxing and looking through a glass bottom boat. I honestly could not give you any more specifics on the reef or any of the coral or fish in the bay. The excursion was guided, but they only spoke French from the beginning and I did not make the effort to tell them I only spoke English.

After the glass bottom boat and snorkeling, we were taken across the bay to an island that the government leased out to a resort. We hung out on the island while our hosts prepared a lunch for us! Fish curry, coleslaw and rice. And of course, they paired it with a view of Blue Bay and Lion Mountain, and some rum punch!

5.4. Lion Mountain

The next day, I was back with Vik, attempting to hike up Lion Mountain! I say “attempt” because it was so much tougher than I expected! More on that in a bit…

Lion Mountain is located in the southeast part of Mauritius, overlooking the Vieux Grand Port (the old port where the Dutch landed in 1598) and the coastal town of Mahébourg (pronounced MAY-burg). Rising to a height of 480 meters, Lion Mountain is a landmark on this side of the island. The hike is a bit challenging, and not recommended for people with lower fitness levels. Part of the challenge is the terrain, which varies from the infamous 102 stairs in the beginning, to rocky, uneven terrain. When you get closer to the top, there is also some bouldering. For those inexperienced in “bouldering,” that is both hands and feet on rock face, pulling yourself upward!

Imagine me, with my approx 7-10 kg backpack full of camera gear. Ok, before you say anything, this is my normal hiking backpack weight due to all my camera equipment! When I don’t bring my camera gear, the regrets run so deep that I purposely train to carry all this weight with me on hikes. And in fairness, I didn’t know there would be aspects of “climbing” on this hike. So, all of this just to say, a HUGE THANK YOU to Vik, for being patient and understanding with me. There were moments that were personally challenging and frustrating.

When I say “leave me alone,” I really only mean, “let me try my best to manage on my own.” If I still fail, I will ask for your help and be grateful that you offered help to begin with.

– said the stubborn, independent w-o-m-a-n, who really appreciates the offer.

The hike was originally advertised to take 3 hours total, but Vik and I ended up taking over 6 hours. Sure, we stopped along the way and at the top, but I cannot imagine having done this at twice the speed! Luckily we had enough water and snacks to keep us both alive. And, true to Vik’s eco-conscious ethos, we picked up trash along the way, as well. Unfortunately, as before at Eau Bleu, we found trash inside nooks and crannies of the boulders, as well as at scenic viewpoints. Let’s keep this earth beautiful, people!

We still picked up trash along the way, despite my challenges.

To keep me going at the very end, when motivation was at an all time low, Vik made the promise of bringing me to “the best noodles in Mahebourg.” Is there any better motivation than that? Obviously not. Well, when you promise me noodles at the bottom of a mountain, you better believe I’ll make it down! And we did. Thank you, Vik for the two incredible hikes! And of course, the spicy noodles (called millie boouillie manguac).

5.5. Chamarel

Located in the Rivière Noire District of Mauritius, the village of Chamarel is home to many of the island’s natural wonders – waterfalls, ebony forests, and the 7 Colored Earth. While my itinerary also suggested a visit to the Black River Gorges National Park and the Bois Cheri Tea planation, due to unforeseen circumstances, regretfully, I was unable to make it there. Instead, I added my own nuance, and stopped by the Rhumerie de Chamarel (the Chamarel Rum Distillery) for a tour and some lunch.

I detoured to Rhumerie de Chamarel for a few reasons:

• Given Mauritius’ history of sugar cane and its recent emergence on the global rum scene, I really wanted to visit a rum distillery;
• I heard that its restaurant, L’Alchimiste (the Alchemist), was amazing;
• If you eat lunch at L’Alchimiste, your rum tasting and tour is free!

In addition to the above reasons, the rum tasting came with NINE DIFFERENT RUMS. Nine! Sure, I’ve had eight course tasting menus of tacos and Scottish fare, but alcohol? Nine different rums? It was unreal! I purposely chose to do the tour and tasting before lunch, so I could sober up during lunch. This trip, afterall, has been a solo, driving adventure. Safety first!

Fully sober, I had to cut my day short in search of a gas station. I did not pass a single gas station between Bel Ombre and Chamarel, and after asking several locals, the nearest gas station was in Black River (in the opposite direction of Black River Gorges National Park and Bois Cheri Tea). According to Google Maps, it was about 16 km away, and my trusty car indicated I had 39 km left on this tank.

After awhile, my car stopped its countdown, basically telling me: it’s dire. Get gas now! In situations like that, there is literally nothing you can do but hope that the 39 km, even with a little plus or minus, means you can still at least drive half of that. And even if 20 km (half) was my absolute maximum, I could still make it to Black River to fill up.

I can sense my sister’s anxiety rising as she is reading this. She would never allow the gas tank to get to that level, basically, systematically filling up when the car has one-quarter of a tank left. If only I learned from her… but no. Just so everyone can rest assured, SPOILER ALERT: I made it to the gas station.

5.6. Litchi Wine Tasting

Nestled in the middle of the island is a unique winery, which likes to do things differently. But hey, different is good! I love different!

So, how is this winery different?

Well, for starters, they make their wine from lychees, not grapes! For those who don’t know, lychees are a tropical fruit, with a delightful pink shell covering the white fruit (with a sizeable seed) on the inside. I’ve had lychee martinis and lychee cocktails in the past, but lychee wine was new to me! Due to Mauritius’ varied microclimates, the fruit itself is not grown on the property. The fruit comes from local Mauritian farmers, from the northern part of the island.

Lychee Fruit

Another thing that sets this winery apart from others is their committment to being ecologically friendly. The winery uses Mauritius’ abundant rainwater to wash and clean its fermentation vats. All of the discarded parts of the lychee are subsequently used in the winery’s vegetable garden or on the grounds.

The winery also has a restaurant on site. In the quiet, calm Mauritian countryside, having lunch, paired with a wine tasting, there was nothing more I could ask for in life. The tasting comprised of three different wines – two whites and a rose. The wines are sweet, light and crisp – perfectly refreshing for a summer’s day.

Thank you, Mauritius Conscious, for sponsoring this delightful wine tasting, and for planning such a great trip!

5.7. Port Louis Historical and Food Tour

On my last full day in Mauritius, I finally set foot in Port Louis, the capital city! And what better way to round out the trip than walking, eating, and learning about the history of Port Louis?

Jaya is the most delightful guide. She is also a part time artist who loves sharing insights and stories of her home! The tour took us through Port Louis’ Indian and Chinese neighborhoods to visit generations-old shops, cultural landmarks and of course, trying all the food that we could!

One of the most unique things about this experience was the access to hidden gems around these ethnic enclaves of Port Louis. I can’t give away all the secrets, but it is absolutely worth it! These hidden gems show you a side of Mauritius that you don’t often get to see. Secret places in the Jummah Mosque, behind the scenes look into the Chinese community center (the stuff of my memories!!!), hidden courtyards, and families and businesses that have been around for generations. This experience fills your heart with rich stories of Mauritius and Mauritians and fills your belly with delicious Mauritian food.

6. Parting Thoughts

What an absolute fun-filled week in Mauritius!! Having a tailor-made itinerary gives you so much flexibility to have the exact holiday that you want! Local perspectives and stories made the experience so much richer! Not only that, you can rest assured that you are doing your part in being an environmentally responsible tourist, promoting sustainable travel.

As part of the package, Mauritius Conscious Travel has made a donation to offset all the carbon from your trip, including flights and your driving! That makes this a carbon neutral trip! Feel free to read more on Mauritius Conscious’ Sustainable Travel Policy.

If you are looking for an eco-friendly, sustainable travel option, look no further than Mauritius with Mauritius Conscious Travel!

Would you like to gift a local, Mauritian experience to a friend? Click here to share a Conscious Gift!

7. Partnership

To conclude this post, I am delighted to announce that I have partnered with Mauritius Conscious as an ambassador. I am only counting down the days to when I can return to Mauritius to experience more local delights! Mauritius Conscious also helps create itineraries for neighboring Reunion Island and Rodrigues Island. Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about my trip, or my partnership with Mauritius Conscious!

As a disclaimer, if you book a holiday with Mauritius Conscious, I am eligible to receive a commission for your referral.

8. Interested in going to Mauritius?

If you’re interested in a trip to Mauritius, enter your contact information and a speciailist will get back to you ASAP!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

For clarification, we were allowed one outdoor exercise per day, and Loch Ard is within walking distance. Totally within the covid-guidelines set forth for Scotland at the time.

1. Who is Rob Roy MacGregor?

Rob Roy MacGregor (1671 – 1743) was a Scottish outlaw, turned folk hero, who fought in the Jacobite risings of 1689 and 1715. Although he is generally considered to be the Robin Hood of Scotland, his story was heavily romanticized by various Scottish writers, including Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe.

Side story: when I told one of my friends about Rob Roy, the outlaw, her actual response was: “oooh, outlaw. That makes it sound so sexy.” So behold – historical images and depictions of sexy Rob.

Between 1711 – 1712, over a dispute about money and cattle, the Duke of Montrose seized MacGregor’s family land and evicted the family. Rob Roy in turn sought revenge through a combination of banditry, theft and “cattle rustling” (the theft of said cattle). Rob Roy’s participation in the 1715 Jacobite rising added the charge of treason on top of his banditry. It is during this time, where he was on the run and hid out in a variety of places in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs area.

2. The Hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave

During the time of covid-19, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs are exactly where I am hiding. So in a way, old Rob and I have that in common. But I am staying in a delightful cottage, whereas he went into hiding in a series of caves. The more famous Rob Roy Cave is in Inversnaid, on the banks of Loch Lomond. Nowadays (according to google research), there is both a sign post there and a marker on the cave itself. If I were an outlaw, I don’t know that I would appreciate such blatant markers. But, this is not the cave in which we hunted for.

Hidden along the banks of Loch Ard is another alleged Rob Roy’s Cave. Of course, if one were an outlaw, one would presume that there would be several hiding places. And since this cave has no signposts or markers, this was the one we chose for our weekend adventure. Well, also because this is the one within walking distance.

3. So, did we find the elusive cave?

Our hike mostly followed the red dots in the big map. Although, we did do a slight detour to the remains of Duke Murdoch’s Castle. Spoiler alert, the remains of the castle are basically just rocks. No need to detour like we did.

Closer look of Rob Roy’s Cave on a map. The little black dot right underneath the “v” in Cave is basically where we were (as compared to the coordinates on the Google Map below). North is up on this one.

So, did we find the cave?

I’ll let you decide for yourself from the photos.

Overall, it was very difficult to find… to the point where we honestly weren’t sure. I mean, if you were a rebel outlaw, you wouldn’t want to stay in a place so obvious. But then again, inside all of those nooks and crannies (i.e. potential caves), none of them looked big enough where you could do more than sit. Which begs the following questions:

• Did Rob Roy sleep sitting up?
• Did he not need to stretch his legs?
• Or when he was in hiding, was he literally in a crouching position the whole time (so that he was at the ready to sprint into action at a moment’s notice)?

If the above photos were indeed his cave, he would have had a lovely view looking out to the banks of Loch Ard.

4. Conclusion to this great caper

So in the end, whether we found the actual location of one of Rob Roy’s Cave will be up to the discretion of the reader. I am personally not convinced. My primary reasoning being: if I were hiding out in a cave, I would want to be able to lay down and sleep in said cave. My friend, on the other hand, seems to think that the rocks may have shifted over time. Perhaps at one point, a rebel outlaw may have been able to sleep there.

Also, as previously noted, his more famous cave is located on the banks of Loch Lomond and is well marked with sign posts. But keeping in line with my blog’s theme of writing about the more obscure places and things, let’s leave things on a positive note and say that maybe we found his obscure cave, and lived to tell the tale.

If you’re in the neighborhood, the Loch Ard trail is a wonderful path and great for a weekend hike. To be honest, it’s one of my favourite walks in Aberfoyle. It’s not a challenging hike, but has great views of the loch and is set in the beautiful Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

Download the AllTrails app

Get ready for your Rob Roy Adventure

• If you’re planning to stay in Aberfoyle as a base for your Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park adventures, here are some local options, all within a short walk from Loch Ard:
  • Rob Roy Hotel – stay on theme of this Rob Roy Adventure at the Rob Roy Hotel – 1 mile outside of Aberfoyle – average rates 95 GBP per night;
  • The Forth Inn – a very dog friendly local pub, with rooms – average rates 90 GBP per night;
  • or the Creag Mhor Self Catering Apartment – 2 bedrooms, great for families – approximately 120 GBP per night.
• Are you traveling from London for your Rob Roy cave (or Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park) adventure? Take the Caledonian Sleeper, the luxury overnight train to Scotland departing from London Euston station and arrive at dawn in Stirling. Connect to Aberfoyle via the X10A bus, which takes only 40 minutes from Stirling.
• When I’m walking or hiking, my go-to is either the AllTrails app on my phone, or an Ordnance Survey map. As someone who missed a career as a cartographer, I do love a physical map!
• Proper walking / hiking shoes essential for Scotland’s outdoor adventures.
  • This walk is not strenuous and, if the ground is dry is fine for AllBirds Wool Runner Mizzles or similar casual trainers/shoes.
  • Otherwise, Merrell’s Waterproof Hiking Boots (UK) / (US) are my absolute go-to for Scotland’s plentiful trails and outdoor hikes. Being prepared for the weather and terrain is a must!

Want to hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave too? Pin it for later!

For my next post, a promised foodie and cocktail pairing, inspired by this rebel outlaw!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

There are many tours that will take you there or renting a car is certainly an option.  But going from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus for a day trip is completely doable, quite easy to do, and incredibly cost effective! So, if you’re up for an adventure, read on! I’ll give step-by-step instructions on how to go from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus.

1. Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Buying bus tickets from Zagreb to Plitvice is easy enough.  A roundtrip ticket on Arriva, was 112 kuna | < $18 USD  | 15 EUR.  My 5:45 am departure (which arrived shortly after 8 am) meant that I’d have to leave my Airbnb around 5 am, in order to arrive early enough to figure things out…just in case.  My ticket was emailed to me as a PDF and included the platform number (#405), and sure enough, there it was.  Large luggage will cost you 10 kuna to put underneath the bus. My large 50 L backpack was fine as a “carry on.”  And then we were off! From Zagreb to Plitvice by bus!

There are 2-3 ten minute stops along the way, but I never left the bus fearing a) losing my seat, and b) the bus leaving without me.

Along the way, you drive through small villages and if you look closely, you can see sprays of bullet holes covering the village houses.  Rising ethnic tensions between Croatians and Serbs sparked with the death of a Croatian army commander.  The result was the Croatian War for Independence, which began in Plitvice, late March 1991.  Both sides had only 1 death each, during the “Plitvice Incident” or the “Plitvice Bloody Easter”, with over 20 wounded and 400 tourists evacuated.

2. Arriving at Plitvice Lakes

After a little over two sleepy hours on the bus, we finally made it from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes. So excited!

Plitvice Lakes has been a national park since after WWII, and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979.  After the Croatian War for Independence, the parks were swept for mines and all of the remaining mines were removed.  Over 1 million people visit the park annually.

When I went to Plitvice in June, the cost of admission for adults was 150 kuna | < $24 USD | 20 EUR.  In July and August (the country’s high season), that jumps to 250 kuna | $40 USD | 34 EUR if you enter before 16:00.

2.1 Entrances to Plitvice

There are two entrances to Plitvice, smartly named Entrance 1 and Entrance 2.  The bus driver will call out the entrances to the passengers.  Depending on what you want to see in the park, different entrances lead to different attractions. The side of the road where you exit the bus is the same side of the road as the entrance to the NP. 

And remember, that means at the end of the day, when you’re waiting to catch the bus back to Zagreb, the bus stop is on the opposite of the road.

2.2 Hiking Plitvice Lakes – Choose your walking program!

You can go hiking in Plitvice Lakes either for a leisurely walk, or an immense (almost) 20 km hike! The national park has 8 different “lake tour programmes”, with the “K” programme being the longest at 18.3 km, with an estimated completion time of 6-8 hours.  I was able to finish in about 5 hours, with breaks in between.

EXPERT TIP: MAKE SANDWICHES AND BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER.  
There are long stretches with no food or water.

3. The Long Hike – “K programme”

It’s always strange going on a long hike on your own.  Granted, there were other people around, because most of the various lake programmes criss-cross each other and overlap.  But I guess not many people wanted an ambitious “Hiking Plitvice Lakes Day.” There were very few people on the “full K programme.” Most of the trail was on wooden planks along or over the water, and when the K goes off into the green wooded area, there are easy to follow paths.

From P3 (around the middle of the map), I had to take off my shoes and cross over a small section in the water.

And from there towards where it continues well into the green, I met one person and one dog on the K trail.  (The dog did not belong to the person). 

4. Not alone at Plitvice anymore!

At some point, hours later, I met C and K, who were two travelers from Canada and they graciously agreed to let me walk with them.  They were also doing the K programme, but started at Entrance 2. Hiking Plitvice Lakes alone – mmm, ok on the fun level. Hiking Plitvice Lakes with fun people – even better!

5. Thoughts on Hiking Plitvice Lakes

The hike ended with a short 5 minute ferry across the water (gushing towards the finish line!) Ok, maybe not such an exciting finish. But, I will say hiking Plitvice Lakes was an amazing way to see so many of the waterfalls. Plus, being off the beaten path was a great way to avoid the mass of tourists. 

Small warning, though… every time you are about to come across a waterfall, the crowds increase and the pace slows, as everyone tries to pose for a picture.  It can get mildly overwhelming.

I finished the hike around 13:30, and was able to catch an earlier bus back to Zagreb.  In the morning, the bus from Zagreb to Plitvice dropped me off next to the entrance. The bus going back is on the opposite side of the road.

Luckily, I had some time to buy an ice cream before the bus arrived. The bus left around 14:45, and I was able to make it back in Zagreb for a shower and amazing dinner.

So in the end, if you love to walk, enjoy waterfalls and crystal clear waters, PLITVICE IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.  Especially if you’re alread in Zagreb, the bus to Plitvice is easy and a completely manageable day trip!

Add it to the bucket list!

6. Resources on going from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Bus tickets and schedules
Sample Zagreb to Plitvice bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 5:45 am – 8:08 am
• 6:30 am – 8:40 am
• 7:30 am – 9:45 am
• 8:30 am – 11:07 am
• 9:15 am – 11:30 am

Sample Plitvice back to Zagreb bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 2:45 pm – 5:05 pm
• 3:45 pm – 5:55 pm
• 5:18 pm – 7:50 pm

Information on Hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park and entrance fees:

• Lake walking programme description and maps
• Price list

REMEMBER BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER

Recap on my Zagreb to Plitvice Day

5:45 am Bus leaves from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
8:10 am: Arrival at Plitvice, Entrance 1
<< walk walk walk walk walk walk walk >>
1:30 pm: Make it back to Entrance 1
2:45 pm: Bus to Zagreb
3 pm: Rain, and feeling thankful to be on a bus and on the way home.  The man I encountered on the K trail, with the dog that was not his, went back to Zagreb on the same bus.
5:15 pm: Arrive in Zagreb
6:30 pm: Finish shower and eat amazing food at Pri Zvoncu
8:30 pm: Sleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. How to get to Lake Bohinj from Bled

The buses leave from the Bled bus station at 20 minutes past the hour.  We took the 9:20 bus, on another charter bus, over to the lake which took about 45 min.  The price of the bus depends on where you get dropped off. Our stop was Ukanc (pronounced, I think, like oo-CONCH), which cost us 4,10 EUR | $4.75 USD. Normally during high season, July and August, the bus runs once an hour and drops you off near most of the main sights.  It being not high season, meant that there was more walking involved.  Way more walking. 

There is an extremely complicated, yet accurate bus schedule here, from Bled to Bohinj.  There legend is extremely detailed, so make sure you are looking at the right column, for the right season, and the right day of the week.

2. Ukanc and uphill to Savica Waterfall

We stopped off at Ukanc, which was the closest stop to the Savica Waterfall, in low season.  And by closest stop, it was still a 50-minute uphill trek, along the side of the only road going up there.  If you’re lucky enough to go in high season and take the bus to the closer stop, obviously it would not take this long.  So off we went. 

I’m so thankful that J was a good sport and trekked everywhere, without any real complaining.  I say real complaining, because part of the amusement during our walk was semi-complaining. Semi-complaining that people who passed us by in their cars never offered to give two random women a ride. Even considering we were obviously going in the same direction, to the same place.  But never mind.

After about an hour (considering breaks to catch our breath and stops for photos), we finally arrived at a parking lot, two restaurants, and a sign that said the waterfall was another 20-minute walk.  More uphill, but this time, with stairs. 

3. Savica Waterfalls

Along the way, there is a little hut to pay the entrance fee (shown below), which was 3 EUR for adults.  All things considering, not a bad price, and definitely worth it.

When we finally reached the falls, there was only 5-10 people up there.  I guess since it was still the low season, it was to be expected.  Near the top, there are also viewpoints out across Lake Bohinj, where you can obviously see the valley formed by ancient glaciers.

Quick facts about the Savica Waterfall (from its brochure that I picked up):

• Height above sea level, at base: 894 m | 2,934 ft
• Two-part waterfall in the form of the letter A
• Height of the large waterfall: 78 m | 256 ft
• Height of the small waterfall: 25 m | 82 ft

4. Lunch stop at Koča Pri Savici

After the falls, we stopped by one of the nearby restaurants for some lunch.  Traditional Slovenian sausage and fries, served with the biggest ketchup and mustard containers known to mankind.

The sausages were delicious and the server was so friendly and talkative.

He asked if we had walked up here via the road or the back path. We came by the road. He encouraged us to take the back path on our way back down, which was shorter.  In reality, it may have been shorter, by mere minutes, but we took more photo breaks and of course, this was downhill. J was smart enough to ask the question, “Will we get lost?”  He laughed a little and said

“Not a chance.  Keep following the sound of the river.” 

And it’s true, we definitely did not get lost. But the sound of the river dissipated after time.  But there was really only one way to go, and after another hour, we had arrived back near Ukanc and the banks of the lake.

4.1 Pause and marvel at Lake Bohinj

5. The long meander to Mostnica Gorge

The next destination was the Mostnica Gorge.  Again, we could have taken the bus. However, it only runs once an hour. So we decided to walk, since it would take about an hour get there. 

From the very west bank of Lake Bohinj (where Ukanc is), to the very east bank of the lake, we walked.  We made some stops along the lake, at a beach and then a pier where we sat for a few moments to rest and enjoy the scenery.  We finally arrived at Stara Fuzina, a small village, which is more or less the gateway to the Mostnica Gorge.

5.1 Stara Fuzina

5.2 Onward to Mostnica Gorge

There were some confusing signs at times. If you followed them, I’m not sure where you would have ended up.  Very likely, you would have ended up at the gorge.  However, we decided to follow Google Maps, which had not led me astray thus far.  We were not entirely sure what we were looking fo. The word gorge really only tells me it’s a very big hole in the ground.  We finally arrived at a booth. The entrance fee was 3 EUR, but the booth was unmanned.  So free entrance it was!  At the booth, there was a fork in the road.

After much indecision, we decided to fork right. There were some other travelers following us and they forked left.  Let me tell you, forking right was the right decision.  Because of this, we accessed large rocks and took some amazing photographs, while they painstakingly looked for a way to cross to our side.  They did not do in the end. I would not have recommended anyway, for safety reasons.  Views below, when you fork right.

We kept walking, trying to figure out where this gorge was. When we arrived according to Google Maps, there was nothing.  We walked on another 20 minutes, but then we realized that the path we were on was no longer marked by a yellow circle and was now a red square.  At that point, we decided enough was enough, and we turned around.  In the end, we realized that the gorge was right inside of the unmanned booth, on the bridge when we forked right.  Suffice it to say, the scenery along the way was absolutely gorgeous and well worth the additional trek.

6. The bus back to Bled

The bus that goes back to Bled leaves at the :47 after every hour, except for at 5:47 pm. Obviously, this is right around the time when we arrived at the bus stop.  I think most people were surprised that there was no 5:47 bus. But not me, thanks to the trusty yet confusing bus schedule.  After some relaxing and a well deserved Magnum ice cream, we hitched the 6:47 pm bus (for 3,40 EUR | $4 USD) and was back in Bled by 7:30 pm. 

According to my Apple Watch, I walked 33,000 steps that day… a personal best.  That amounted to about 16 miles or 25 km.  Exhausting, doable, and extremely worth it.  This beautiful day trip to Lake Bohinj is a must for those wanting to reconnect with nature and those who love exploring foreign national parks like I do!

Resources for Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

If you’d like to visit Lake Bohinj from Lake Bled, check out the bus schedule

Other things to see, in the Bohinj region, which we didn’t have time for:

• Cable car up to Vogel
• Hike up to Pec (about 45 min)

Approximate Schedule for the Lake Bohinj Day

• 8:20 am: Bus from Bled to Ukanc
• 10:10 am: Arrive at Ukanc bus stop, begin walking
• 11:30 am: Savica Waterfall
• << walking >>
• 1 pm: Lunch at Koča Pri Savici
• <<more walking>>
• 4:30 pm: near Mostnica Gorge
• 6:47 pm: bus back to Bled
• 7:30 pm: arrive back to Bled
• 8 pm: I’m asleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

A few years ago, your average American would likely not have heard of Slovenia or considered it as a holiday spot.  However, with the rise of Instagram, Lake Bled has become a magical destination – even for destination weddings!  You could even be like my friend Steven, who had a magical wedding at Lake Bled.

As a part of the former Yugoslavia, Slovenia is nestled between Austria, Italy, Croatia and the Adriatic Sea.  The landscape has rugged mountains (as part of the Julian Alps), glacial lakes, and beautiful wooded areas.

1. Train from Vienna to Lesce-Bled

Vienna is the perfect base to take a long weekend in Lake Bled. I began my journey in Vienna, where I took the 8:20 am train from Wien Hauptbanhof to Villach. There is a quick and easy switch from Villach to Lesce-Bled. Truthfully, I almost missed the stop at Lesce-Bled. Too busy admiring at the beauty out the window!  I arrived at Lesce-Bled around 1:50 pm.  From the Lesce-Bled train station, I took a bus into Bled town.

1.1 Bus to Bled town

I didn’t realize it at the time, but public transportation buses in Bled, and perhaps Slovenia, are actually what we would consider charter buses.  While there was a luggage compartment below the bus, I didn’t know this at the time.

Lugging a rolling luggage (with backpack and purse) onto a charter bus is the most miserable thing I can think of.  If you find yourself in this situation, do yourself a favor and just open the lower compartment yourself before you board. There is an unforgettable, unusual, “Dino Park” on the way into town.  And yes, it is everything your imagination thinks it would be. I couldn’t take a picture of it, as I struggling with my luggage and half-sitting in my seat.

In three words, my Airbnb is

Bled itself is a small town that surrounds the beautiful Lake Bled.  Lake Bled is more or less famous for the island, with a church, in the middle of the lake.  For 10 EUR, a tourist boat can take you onto the island so you can tour the church.  During my time there, I did not end up doing that, more or less because my purpose was to photograph the island and surrounding areas.

2. Ojstrica – Sunrise Hike Lake Bled

There are several hiking trails in and around Bled, which can offer you views of the lake and the island.  Most easily accessible is the Ojstrica, which is on the southwest side of the lake.  I went up to this viewpoint one morning for sunrise.  Sunrise was scheduled for 5:15 am that morning. According to Google Maps, it was a 45-50 minute walk from where I was staying on the opposite of the lake. Before 4:30 am, I was out the door.  I was in Bled in late May, early June, and it rained quite a bit. Be prepared!  Accuweather said it would rain at 7 am, so I had some time.

I mostly followed Google Maps. The path is mostly flat, around the circumference of the lake.  Towards the end, you veer off into a wooded, forested area, where a slight incline begins.  There are a lot of eroded and slippery stones (slippery from the rainfall the night before) along the way, so be careful.  Before Google said I arrived, I found this sign.

This is where you stop with your app and follow the sign.  This is where it begins to get steep. Basically, you begin to climb upward, but only for less than 5 minutes, until you reach the peak.

2.1 Sunrise

I arrived right around 5:17, and though shrouded by clouds, daylight was about to break.  There were a few people already enjoying the sunrise, and in a strange irony, the 6 people up there, including myself, were all Americans – one couple toasting with champagne, part of a family, and then me.

Watch this video on YouTube.

I would have said that it was peaceful up at the top, but for some reason, somebody down at grown level was doing some heavy gardening. All we could hear was the revving of a weed whacker, from about 5:30 to 6 am.  Things don’t always turn out exactly the picture-perfect way you want it to.

I stayed until about 6:45, when I realized I should get moving because of the aforementioned rain forecast.  And as a testament to the greatness of the Accuweather app, at 6:56, I felt the first drops of rain.  I rushed to grab my rain jacket and put the rain cover over my backpack to protect my camera. 

Getting caught in the rain is probably one of the more lighthearted things in life. Everyone I passed along the way gave each other an acknowledgement and a little chuckle. Basically, “Yep, I’m caught in the rain too.”

I got back around 7:30 am, exhausted and starving.  Why didn’t I stop along the way to get food?  Because when you pack your bag at 4 am, you think to yourself, “Why do I need money?  I am going to be in a forest.”  You bring money because you’ll be starving on your way back otherwise.

3. Well deserved breakfast

Luckily, Bled town is small. From my Airbnb, I can reach everywhere within five minutes.  I stopped by Caffe Peglez’n, which has a very adorable indoor area and an outdoor seating area.  The interior was decorated with a kitchy, vintage vibe.

I had a simple ham and cheese panini.  It was simple but bigger than I imagined, and perfect for refueling.  Things happen slowly in this part of the world. By 9 am, I finally finished and headed back.  After a shower, I took an amazingly long nap.  I haven’t done many sunrise hikes in my day. Even after my nap, I couldn’t recover from the exhaustion of the day.

4. Dinner and rain…again…

Later in the day, I agreed to meet J. I met her the day before at lunch, when both of us sat alone at neighboring tables. And we decided to eat together.

The following day, J and I decided to take a day trip to Lake Bohinj, in the Triglav National Park.

Read all about the fantastic day full of waterfalls, glacial valleys, and stunning hikes!

Of course, I knew it was going to rain (thank you, Accuweather).  But silly wardrobe choices. My rain jacket wouldn’t match with the dress I was determined to wear. Therefore, I was woefully unprepared for the inevitable downpour that came.  Why a dress you say?  I’m a firm believer that if you feel terrible, but you look nice, you will start to feel better… unless you are caught in the rain, and then … well, I’m just stupid.

Although J and I both ate almost an entire pizza while waiting for the rain to subside, it never did. After about an hour, enough was enough.  Don’t get me wrong, the pizza was delicious. However, my energy level was declining. I desperately needed to get back to my bed.  So, thank you to the tourist shop next door, and the 5,50 EUR umbrella that I bought.  There was a foreign woman looking at umbrellas too. When we made eye contact, we both started laughing both at ourselves and at each other.

Watch this video on YouTube.

Rain can bring good humor, if you let it.

And for an existential note on rain to finish the post, rain brings life, but it also takes away.

5. Information on your Sunrise Hike, Lake Bled

Train

• OBB: One-way, second class ticket: 39 EUR | $46 USD
• Wien Hbf to Villach Hbf: 8:20 am to 12:46 pm
• Villach Hbf to Lesce-Bled: 12:53 pm to 1:50 pm

Bus

Lesce-Bled to Bled main station bus fare: 1,30 EUR | $1.50 USD

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Fairy Glens

On my last day at the Spoons, after check out, I ventured out to the Fairy Glens, which is near the town of Uig.  It was about a half hour drive from the Spoons, onto a different peninsula of Skye (called the Trotternish Peninsula). 

I’ve been to some pretty obscure places. However, considering the Fairy Glens are one of the more famous places on Skye, I expected… at the very least, a sign post.  Marie, from the Spoons, warned me that there was limited parking. She pointed out the small road to turn onto, off of the main road (A87).  Just as you’re entering in the town of Uig, there is a small turn off, on your right.  If you’ve pass the Uig Hotel, you’ve gone too far.  It’s genuinely a small turn and a small road, with absolutely no signs.  As you drive along, there are a few (very few) farm houses and lots and lots of sheep.

The only way you know that you’ve arrived at the fairy glens, is this small pond off to the side of the road.  There’s no marker or sign, but the pond is the sign.  It was frozen over in the winter time and luckily there was one car parked there, which meant at least someone is attempting the same thing as me.

There were no signs on which way to go, but I figured just go up.  There was also kind of a path, but not really.

The story is that fairies dwell in the area, and still live in the hills to this day.  Although there isn’t a specific fairy tale (pun intended) that tells the story of the fairies in the area, it’s common knowledge that this is where they live.  After hiking upwards not more than 10 minutes, I came across these large concentric circles of stone, which I’ll be honest – I still don’t know what they are or what they mean.  But I assume that I had arrived at the fairy glens.

Here is a 360 degree video of the fairy glens area, with the howling wind for a soundtrack.  The lack of steadiness is because I am constantly repositioning my feet for security, as the wind keeps blowing at me and making me lose my footing.

Watch this video on YouTube.

2. Fairy Pools

There is another place in Skye, where the fairies bathe. Personally, it seems a far distance to bathe from the Fairy Glens where they live.  Located on the Duirinish peninsula, the Fairy Pools are a series of waterfalls, near a forest, at the base of the Cuillin Mountains.  Unlike the glens, there is a large parking lot for tourists to the Fairy Pools. However, there is no sign to point you in the direction of the Fairy Pools. You’ll have to walk across the street, and towards the river to start your journey.

There is a big path (above) from the road down a hill towards the river or creek.  You do have to cross the waters sometimes, but there are very large rocks in place for you to cross safely.  Just be careful of slipping, and if you are like me and carrying a backpack, you’re not as light on your feet when you need to jump across sometimes.  No, don’t worry, I didn’t fall, but I definitely landed shorter than where I expected to, once or twice.  haha

I don’t know if there is a specific fairy pool (online guides say you need to walk about 20 minutes before reaching it), but there were several small waterfalls, which were mostly all frozen over.  In most places the water was frozen or semi-frozen, given the unusually frigid temperatures.  But there was no wind, so it was generally a very relaxing and brisk hike.  Some incline on the way up to see more waterfalls, but not too bad.  The more exhausting incline was on the way back up to the parking lot.

Conclusion on the world of fairies on Skye

So, as you can see, the fairies on Skye live a very magical life in a magical place.  I tend to think of fairies as warm weather creatures, so I can’t imagine they were fairing very well in the freezing temperatures.  But hopefully they survived this unusual frigid weather, as I did, and hopefully spring is just around the corner!

Until next time, the fairies wish you a wonderful day!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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In Scotland, there is no such thing as bad weather…only the wrong clothes.

I must be the luckiest gal alive to be in Europe during the freak “Beast from the East” winter storm.  Snow in Edinburgh crippling the whole city, but I’m not in Edinburgh.  I’m on the Isle of Skye, where temperatures have fallen below freezing for the first time since 2010!  But I am lucky because… I have all of my winter gear from Iceland.  So THANK YOU giant North Face coat and Sorel snow boots!  

1. The Spoons on Skye

My original plan for Skye was to go hiking and work on my essays.  The first day on Skye, windchill was 13°F | -10.5°C.  So hiking?  No thank you.  But I did manage to get some work done, in the coziest, most amazing place I stayed at!  The Spoons on Skye is a “luxury self catering” guesthouse, which to Americans, really just means it is a vacation rental, not a bed and breakfast. 

My stay at the Spoons on Skye was absolutely amazing, and big bonus, they do leave some food for you in the refrigerator for when you arrive (i.e. eggs, delicious bacon, juice, milk, yogurt, granola, and some tomatoes).  It’s actually a huge plus having those provisions, because everything in Skye is close, but takes a long time to get to. 

Portree, the main town on the island, is only a few miles away, but takes about 20 minutes driving to get there… mostly because of potholes and windy roads.  It’s not a single track road, like other roads on the island.  In order to buy anything, you have to go into town.  And when it is cold as it’s been in years on Skye, one is thankful to have some food at home before having to go out and buy more provisions.

And, through much trial and error, I finally figured out how to layer logs in the wood burning stove, and start a fire!  Which is SO COZY when it’s freezing outside.

Isn’t Spoons on Skye the most gorgeous place ever?

Anyone looking for an amazing, cozy, homey and super lovely place to stay, look no further than the Spoons on Skye! It’s extremely highly recommended by yours truly!

Eventually, I did end up venturing outward on the second day.  Hiking in the cold is fine, but hiking when there’s monstrous wind and the cold, can be tough.  Also, since I just got over my Jerusalem illness, I didn’t want to overdo it physically.

2. Hiking the Old Man of Storr

Hiking the Old Man of Storr was something that I knew I had to do on Skye. The Old Man of Storr is a rock formation, located a few miles north of Portree. 

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There is a small parking space, but most people just park up the road from there, since the parking space really only accommodates less than 8 cars (my educated guess).  There is one sign at the beginning and then a gate and the path up. 

It’s fairly steep on the way up, and that’s not to be underestimated.  It was supposed to be 40 minutes (one way) up to visit the Old Man.  I don’t know what pace that equates to, but going at a steep incline, I was taking several breaks “for the view” but also to catch my breath.  haha.  I passed through 3 more gates, and I still didn’t arrive at the Old Man.  Apparently during this time, I had gone up 52 floors, according to my phone.  And not wanting to overdo it, I gave up and started the much funner descent.

3. Visit to Portree

After my exhausting hike, I decided to stop by Portree and take a look around town.  It’s the biggest town on the island, and to be honest, the rest of the places on Skye that you can see on Google Maps are not towns.  They’re maybe a small grouping of houses (probably less than 10), maybe one post office that might double as a store, and likely no restaurants to speak of.  But Portree was a big town, with hotels, a grocery store, shops, restaurants*, and a harbor. 

*There is a little caveat with the restaurants, because most are not open in the off season.  And even then, the ones that are open close during afternoon hours between lunch and dinner, so there is very limited hours of service.

A visit to town isn’t complete without a stop at the co-op, or small grocery store, to stock up on goods.  Bought enough stuff to cook an amazing soup that kept me warm the rest of the day.

Stay tuned, for my next entry on my trip to the Fairy Glens and my road trip around the Trotternish Peninsula!  But for now, I need to pack, as I’m leaving Belfast for Dublin!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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