My own Jerusalem Syndrome – 36 hours in the Holy City

Jerusalem Syndrome is a real thing . Many visitors to Jerusalem experience a sudden religious fervor, following a visit to the Holy City. Jerusalem Syndrome is infact a type of psychosis.  Although I was only in Jerusalem for two days and two nights, I came down with my own syndrome, due to poor weather conditions (lots of rain and wind) and the excuse of having to continue to go out because of a tour.  Disclaimer: This is my true life experience during 36 hours in Jerusalem. And this is how I experienced it.

1. Late night arrival into Tel Aviv & Jerusalem

I arrived from Vienna at nearly 1 am into the Tel Aviv Airport.  I was questioned at immigration for being a single traveler on holiday in Israel, which I take it, is not normal.  Since it was Saturday at 1 am when I arrived, the Sabbath already began and my transportation options into Jerusalem were limited.  My airbnb host said there would be some Nesher taxis I could take for about $16 USD.  Imagine my surprise when I couldn’t find one and the only taxis there quoted me about $100 USD.  At a certain point in traveling, and when it’s getting on near 2 am, stop arguing and just make sure they take credit card.  So there I was, in an overpriced taxi van.  I sent a “find your friend” notification of my whereabouts to my friend, just in case.  You really can never be too careful.

Taxi misadventures

The taxi driver asked if I wanted metered fare or a flat fee.  Knowing that flat fees were allegedly illegal, I chose the metered fare amount.  There we were – driving along the highway in near-darkness. My driver pointed out very innocuous things like… a large power plant … or a convent where the nuns don’t speak. None of which, I could see.  I’m watching the meter, and it is creeping up very fast. I now know that my taxi fare will exceed $100. 

We were nearing Jerusalem when all of a sudden, the driver pulls over on the side of the highway. 

I am REALLY glad I gave my friend my location at this point, because there is no telling what is going on…although her being in America, what would that really do?

He asks me for my credit card.  I’m dumbfounded, but clearly not going anywhere.  As I’m reaching for my card, he turns off the meter.  My brain went to sinister places because it was near 2 am. In reality, we hit the flat fee amount on the meter, stopped the meter, and went for the flat fee instead, to save me money.  You could’ve just said something, instead of just pulling over on the side of the highway near 2 am and freaking me out. <y late night misadventures didn’t stop there. My Airbnb host neglected to tell me, that taxis cannot fit on the alley in front of the unit.  The taxi driver proceeded to drop me off about 2 blocks away from my actual apartment, at around 2:30 a.m.  Not pleased.

One final note about the evening and my first impressions. Everyone says Reykjavik’s drinking water tastes like sulfur.  And I agree – it does.  Jerusalem’s tap water, after boiling, tastes way worse.  Way.  Worse.  It’s supposed to be drinkable, but really, it was awful.

2. Breakfast at Aroma

The next morning, parched and completely dehydrated, I set out.  Not much was open on the Sabbath, but I managed to find a croissant and a coffee at a place called Aroma.  It was packed to the brim with people.

Recharged and stomach happy, off I went. 

3. Garden Tomb

First stop was the Garden Tomb, which is allegedly the burial and resurrection site of Jesus.  Nestled in a peaceful garden, there are areas set up around the garden for people to hold sermons or sing hymns. Both of which happened during my short visit. There was a peaceful, calming air in the atmosphere.  You’d never even realize that a large Arab marketplace was just steps outside.

4. Muslim Quarter and the Old City

I spent the afternoon walking around, trying to make my way to the Western Wall.  It’s supposed to be open on Saturday , but you’re not allowed to take pictures.  But I couldn’t access it for the life of me.  There were some parts, I guess leading to Temple Mount, where Muslims told me I couldn’t go. Only Muslims were allowed on Saturdays.  I didn’t think I was that close to the Temple Mount, but needless to say, there was a very large area that I could not access.  Everything to the right of the black line, I could not get to.  But did you know that the majority of the Old City is a big marketplace with winding alleyways and stalls and shophouses?

Regardless, this area is covered by my tour the following day.  After roaming around the Old City for quite some time, I was tired and hungry. 

5. Lunch at Menza

On my walk back home, I passed by Menza, which was also on my list of places open during the Sabbath.  I stopped in for a deliciously fresh salad.

After my wonderful lunch, I went back to my Airbnb for some Netflix and rest before my mad dash to a hot restaurant to try and snag a table.  If you’re in Jerusalem for only one meal, this is the place you need to try! Check out my dinner adventures and review here!

6. Jerusalem & Bethlehem Tour

For the next day, I signed up for a Jerusalem tour, which also covered Bethlehem (in the West Bank, Palestine). The tour operater agreed to drop me off in Bethlehem, albeit with some degree of judgment. I think the actual response was, “But why would you want to [stay in Bethlehem]?” I’m pretty sure my response was: “Why not?”

It never ceases to amaze me where old Roman roads pop up. And they are so well preserved!  No wonder all roads lead to Rome.

I’m not really going to talk much about my tour, because it started raining and was cold and extremely windy.  To come full circle, my “Jerusalem syndrome” began with the extreme weather I experienced on this tour. It resulted in a 2 week long illness, for which I literally have just recovered.  Anyway, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.  And to begin, here I am at the Western Wall (aka Wailing Wall).

Crossing into the Bethlehem, in the West Bank

Parting Thoughts – my 36 hours in Jerusalem

And with that, my tour and my time in Israel was over.  Jerusalem, for me, felt a little too chaotic and a little too loud.  I expected peacefulness and serenity. Given that Jerusalem is the center of three major religions, I imagined the “Holy Land” to be more calming than the city turned out to be. Perhaps the experience is different for those who are more religiously inclined. But it was definitely an experience. 

Day 1 Recap

• 10 AM: coffee and croissant at Aroma | map
• 11 AM: Garden Tomb (free) | map
• 12 PM: Muslim Quarter and the Old city | map
• 3 PM: late lunch at Menza | map
• approx 7:30 PM (1 hour after sunset): dinner at Machneyuda | map

For my Day 2 itinerary, click here.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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