They’re not in order of importance, they’re all equally as great!

1. Arles, France (1888 – 1889)

Located in the southern part of France, in the Provence region, Van Gogh had some of his most prolific years in Arles (pronounced ARL). When he lived in Arles, Van Gogh painted an astonishing 187 paintings. During that time, he tried to set up an artist commune with fellow artist, Paul Gauguin, at the Yellow House. While they had a couple of months of painting, drink and general fun loving male bonding, an argument erupted between the two of them, which resulted in two things: Gauguin leaving Arles (never to see Vincent again), and van Gogh horrifyingly cutting off his own ear (on December 23, 1888). Yes, all of that took place in what is otherwise, an extremely delightful village in southern France.

While the Yellow House no longer exists (it was destroyed during WWII), one of the famous van Gogh sites you can visit in Arles is the Yellow Cafe. The Yellow Cafe (now Le Cafe Van Gogh) is located in the Place du Forum in Arles. The painting, actually entitled Café Terrace at Night, was the first time van Gogh had painted stars in a night sky. The painting itself is located in the Kroller-Muller Museum in the Netherlands (which we’ll get to).

Besides the Café Terrace (or Yellow Cafe), to follow in the footsteps of van Gogh in Arles, the tourism authority has a Van Gogh self-guided walking tour which takes you to spots which inspired or are depicted in his paintings. Although I did this many moons ago in 2008 (hence the lack of photos), I can say that this Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is incredible.

Or, if you’d like a private walking tour of Arles that covers both Van Gogh and Roman sites, there are options for those as well.

Another place worth mentioning in Arles, is now called L’espace van Gogh – the town’s library and exhibition space, with souvenir shops. 130 years ago, when Van Gogh lived in Arles, this location was the town’s hospital. Van Gogh stayed in this hospital several times during his time in Arles, but most famously after he cut of his ear. The inner courtyard is maintained to look similar to his painting – Garden of the Hospital in Arles.

Entry to L’espace van Gogh is free, except for exhibitions.

On May 8, 1889, Van Gogh left Arles, to check in to the asylum in Saint Remy de Provence. Good segway.

2.  Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France (1889 – 1890)

After Van Gogh left Arles, he voluntarily checked into the asylum called Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole, which is located 1.5 km south of the village of Saint-Remy-de-Provence. A former monastery, during Van Gogh’s time, it was a “lunatic asylum.” I use that word in quotes because that’s how they referred to it during that time. Van Gogh spent about one year in Saint-Paul de Mausole, where he painted 142 paintings.

On your visit to Saint-Paul de Mausole (website in French only), you can see the room that Van Gogh stayed in. It’s a somber place to visit, given all that he must have endured while there. Tickets are 6.50 EUR.

If you happen to visit Saint-Paul de Mausole mid-June to mid-August, yo’ll be in time for lavender season. The monastery has a beautiful lavender field surrounding the location. I went in early October, too late for purple fields.

Van Gogh painted his famous Starry Night (1889) during his time at the asylum in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. The window of his room faced east, and the painting depicts the view a fictional village just before sunrise. The painting is part of the collection at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence also has a Van Gogh self-guided walking tour to follow, which highlights some of the locations of his famous cyprus tree and olive tree paintings.

Alternatively, be guided around Provence from Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, or Marseille and bask in the picturesque countryside.

A scene from Saint-Remy-de-Provence area, where Van Gogh lived between 1889-1890.

Before we move on from Provence, if you’re a fan of art, consider visiting Carrières de Lumières, located in Les Baux-de-Provence (a 15 minute drive away). Carrières de Lumières is an indoor art installation, housed in an old stone quarry. Nowadays, you’ll see these Immersive Van Gogh Experiences in all the major cities. However, I can tell you that Carrières de Lumières is the original. Back in 2016 when I visited, there wasn’t anything like it in the world – and it’s phenomenal! While the Immsersive Van Gogh Experience focuses only on Van Gogh, Carrières de Lumières changes artists each season. When I went, it was Marc Chagall. Anyway, if you’re already visiting Van Gogh sites, I’d highly recommend this slight “artsy” detour.

3. Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands

Located an hour and a half drive away from Amsterdam, hidden inside De Hoge Veluwe National Park, is the Kröller-Müller Museum. Honestly, most people haven’t heard of the Kröller-Müller Museum, but it is arguably one of the best Van Gogh sites to visit! It houses the largest private collection of Van Gogh paintings, and is the second largest Van Gogh collection in the world. It’s only second to the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam!

The Kröller-Müller Museum is truly an incredible place, with 90 paintings and over 180 of Van Gogh’s drawings. While this is probably one of the least famous Van Gogh sites, I would highly recommend making the effort to visit – if you’re a true Van Gogh fan!

Adult tickets are 11.10 EUR.

Without a car, a visit to the Kröller-Müller Museum is doable but time consuming. I had a car hire and drove from Amsterdam (approximately 1 hour). Or consider taking a private tour from Amsterdam!

Evening Landscape with Rising Moon and detail. Painted during his time in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. Currently located in the Kröller-Müller Museum.

4. Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam, Netherlands

I’ve been to Amsterdam several times, and most of the time I visit, I’ll make it a point to stop at one of their great museums. Along with the Rijksmuseum and Moco Museum (Museum and Modern Art), the Van Gogh Museum is arguably one of my favorite places to visit in Amsterdam, and probably one of the most famous Van Gogh sites in the world. Having the largest collection of Van Gogh works, it’s really an absolute must! It’s wonderfully curated, and each time I’ve visited, I see new pieces and familiar pieces alike.

Tickets are 19 EUR and a time slot must be reserved in advance. But for you photo or instagram enthusiasts, photos are only allowed in select areas (i.e. the entry hall and selfie wall).

For those staying in Amsterdam for a few days, I highly recommend the I Amsterdam Card, which gives you access to public transport, bicycle rental, river cruises, and entry to over 70 museums (including free entry to the Van Gogh museum!). A 24-hour pass is 65 EUR and includes so much!

The following places are sites for the super Van Gogh fans, which I haven’t been to. So, they’re not included in my “Best of” list above, since I can’t attest to it. But far be it for me to deny crucial information on famous Van Gogh sites.

– Other Van Gogh Sites –

1. Birthplace (1853), Zundert, Netherlands – Vincent van GoghHuis – tickets 8 GBP
2. Home in 1883, Drenth, Netherlands – Van Gogh Huis Drenthe – tickets 6 EUR
3. Home 1879 – 1880, Cuesmes, Belgium – Maison Van Gogh – tickets 4 EUR
4. Home 1881, Etten-Leur, Netherlands (and his parents home from 1875-1882) – The Van Gogh Church in Etten – tickets 5 GBP.
5. Place of death, Auvers-sur-Oise, France

• For the last 70 days of Van Gogh’s life, he lived in Auvers-sur-Oise, a commune 27 km northwest of Paris. While living there, he stayed in Auberge Ravoux, as a lodger, where he painted 80 paintings and 64 sketches. He shot himself in the chest on July 27, 1890, and died two days later. The inn is now a museum and tourist site (tickets are 6 EUR). His room has been preserved, although none of the original furniture remains. Both Vincent and his brother Theo are buried in the cemetary in Auvers-sur-Oise, France.

Parting Thoughts on Visiting Van Gogh Locations

For avid Van Gogh fans, I think it’s really special to visit sites that are both important in his life, but also the museums that have helped to preserve his legacy. Van Gogh wasn’t famous or successful during his life, and it was only after his death that he grew in popularity. Since he led quite a tragic life, many of the sites in Arles and Provence are somber, melancholic even.

For those super fans and admirers of his work, Arles is the absolute must-visit. The Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is so surreal – walking along the same streets he did, seeing the same trees and rivers. That feeling can’t really be described. It’s incredible! Arles is definitely one of the famous Van Gogh sites worth visiting!

If you’re planning to do an all out road trip to visit Van Gogh locations, Tea, an art historian and travel blogger, has it all mapped out. Fun stuff! Check it out!

For those who love art, check out my other art themed posts:

• Alphonse Mucha and art nouveau in Brno, Czechia;
• national treasures at the Scottish National Galleries in Edinburgh;
• Visiting Giverny, Monet’s famous lily garden outside of Paris;
• and immerse yourself in digital art with the great artists, like Chagall and Van Gogh!

Until next time, stay curious and stay healthy!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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1. Getting to Tashkent

Living in Afghanistan provides me with potential to travel to some interesting places nearby. And as I always say,

when living in a Stan, travel to a different Stan.

Direct flights between Kabul to Tashkent (Uzbekistan) happen once a week on Kam Air. They are on random days of the week, so you mostly can’t take advantage of it, unless you’re prepared to use annual leave days. Luckily for me, there was a holiday long weekend that happened to align with Kam’s flight days, with minimal leave required.

There are also direct flights to TAS from most major airports: JFK, LHR, DXB, IST.

Upon arriving into Tashkent, I took a taxi to my hotel and dropped off my bags, and set off to meet a friend and colleague. With my headscarf off and a gorgeous spring day to freely walk the streets, I set out for a 2-3 km walk to meet my friend in central Tashkent. M also worked with me in Afghanistan, stationed in a different office. Whereas I took a flight, she took a taxi to the northern border of Afghanistan to Uzbekistan and an overnight train into Tashkent.

2. Who is Amir Timur?

Our first stop was one of Tashkent’s major sites – the Amir Timur Museum. But wait, who exactly is Amir Timur? Before I answer that question, I need to go into a mini-history lesson.

After Uzbekistan declared independence from the USSR in 1991, there was significant emphasis placed on reviving the nation’s cultural heritage. Recognizing and promoting historical figures was part of this revival.

2.1 Founder of the Timurid Empire

Amir Timur, aka Tamurlane, was a warlord and conquerer, and founder of the Timurid Empire (mid 1300s to mid 1500s). The Timurid Empire spanned across much of Central Asia and Iran. It reached as far as Turkey to the west and India and Pakistan to the east. The Timurid Empire had two capital cities: Samarkand (1370 – 1405) which we will visit in another post, and Herat (Afghanistan, 1405 – 1507).

I don’t know how much I believe this, but it’s said that Timur was an undefeated commander in battle. I think that claim may be embellished over time. This lore appears to be fed by his self-promotion as a descendent of Genghis Khan. He was not – but Timur took it upon himself to restore the greatness of the Mongol Empire. Whatever stretches of truth or self-inflated grandeur, he is actually considered a great military strategist and tactician.

In addition to being a warlord and conquerer, Timur also promoted science, education, architecture and the arts. He ushered in, what’s now known as, the Temurid Renaissance.

2.2 Links to modern day Uzbekistan

So, all of this is relevant, leading up to the creation of the Amir Timur Museum. 660 years after the birth of Timur, President Islam Karimov declared 1996 as the “Year of Timur”. And on October 18, 1996, to much fanfare, the Amir Timur Museum opened its doors. President Karimov described Amir Timur Square (the main square in Tashkent) as a ring, and “the Museum is a precious stone decorating it”.

3. The Amir Timur Museum

Before I begin, I wanted to note – there is an entrance fee and a separate fee for taking photographs. Unfortunately, I cannot remember or confirm online how much either of these cost. However, compared to other currencies, the Uzbekistani soʻm is an affordable currency. At present, $1 USD will give you about 10,000 Som. Although I can’t provide you with exact details on the cost, just trust me that you shouldn’t worry too much about it.

Without further ado…

Watch this video on YouTube.

Under the Dome

As you can see, the level of detail is stunning. And the dome is in fact massive! You can see the relative size of the people compared to the height of the ceiling. It’s just absolutely stunning.

There was also a hallway introducing each of the leaders in the Temurids’ Dynasty, with unusual descriptions of them. Just as an example, meet Umarshayh Mirzo. The below is the actual description of his portrait, on the plaque next to him.

Umarshayh Mirzo (1456 – 1494) is the fourth son of Sultan Abusaid Mirzo. Ruler of Fergana in 1462 – 1494. He’s good natured, sincere, brave and educated person. Unexpectedly, he died falling into abyss from his pigeonry.

The museum mostly focuses on the geneaology of Amir Timur and his rise to power.

4. More photos and some parting thoughts

The rest of the post focuses on other things I found interesting in the museum, without much description or comment. As my first look into the history of Uzbekistan, it was really interesting!

The plaque under this image says:

If somebody wants to understand who the Uzbeks are, if somebody wants to comprehend all the power, might, justice and unlimited abilities of the Uzbek people, their contribution to the global development, their belief in the future, he should recall the image of Amir Temur.

President Islam Karimov

Wow. Bold words. And with those words, I bid you adieu. Hope you enjoyed this peak into what can only be described an introduction to the understanding and comprehension of Uzbeks!

Until next time, stay home and stay safe!

Heading to Samarkand? Allow me to introduce you to the Heart of the Ancient World.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Scottish National Gallery

Situated in the heart of Edinburgh, the Scottish National Gallery is a small but delightful museum. While Scottish artists are the main focus, the National Gallery also houses works of art from famous European artists.

Here are some of my favorites:

• The Skating Minister by Henry Raeburn
• Lady Agnew of Lochnaw by John Singer Sargent
• Art Cabinet with Anthony van Dyck’s ‘Mystic Marriage of St Catherine’ by Guillam van Haecht
• Still-life by Thomas Warrender
• Saint Bride by John Duncan
• The Campbell Sisters by Lorenzo Bartolini
• Orchard in Blossom (Plum Trees) by Vincent van Gogh
• Three Tahitians by Paul Gauguin
• A Lady in Grey by Sir Daniel Macnee

My all time favorite in the Scottish National Gallery

Originally commissioned in 1850, along with two other paintings, for the House of Lords in Westminster. When completed, the House of Commons refused to grant the 150£ to pay for the commission. Subsequently, sold to private collectors, The Monarch of the Glen changed hands among the aristocracy, until 1916 when Pears Soap acquired the painting for its advertising campaigns. According to Wikipedia,

It was sold on to John Dewar & Sons distillery and became their trademark before similarly being used by Glenfiddich. The painting was then acquired as part of the purchase of Dewar’s by Diageo. In 1997 Diageo sold Dewar’s to Bacardi but this did not include ancillary assets. Diageo then loaned the painting to the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. On 2 November 2016, Diageo announced their intention to sell the painting, as they stated it had “no direct link to our business or brands”.

Wikipedia

Valued in 2016 at £8 million, Diageo offered the National Galleries of Scotland The Monarch at half price, if it could raise the £4 million. Spoiler alert: it did.

As you can see, the painting is stunning and regal. Its history is an interesting one. And its likeness has been used by brands and companies for over a hundred years. To learn more about the painting, click here.

2. Scottish National Portrait Gallery

The museum holds about 3,000 portraits and sculptures, 38,000 photographs, and 25,000 prints and drawings. Following the Scottish Reformation, religious art fell out of fashion and paved the way for a pleathora of portraits. Portraiture was a luxury of nobility and royalty, as you’ll see in the photos below. Today, the gallery houses portraits of Scots, despite not necessarily being made by Scots.

Entryway

When you first walk in, you’re greeted in The Great Hall, by a massive mural, painted by William Hole. In 1898, he painted a processional frieze for the entrance hall, which shows over 150 heroes of Scotland on murals that decorate the arches on the ground floor. For more information, including the full frieze, click here.

On the first floor, added later, Hole painted a series of murals that depict important scenes from Scottish history. And finally, on the ceiling, beautiful constellations.

Royal Portraits

1. Queen Victoria by Franz Xaver Winterhalter
2. HM Queen Victoria by A.E. Chalon
3. Queen Victoria sculpted by Alexander and William Brodie
4. Portrait of His Imperial Majesty Nicolai II Alexandrvitch, Tsar of All the Russias by Valentin Serov
5. Mary, Queen of Scots by Unknown
6. Queen of Scots, Sovereign of The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of The Thistle and Chief of The Chiefs photographed by Julian Calder

My 2 favorites in the National Portrait Gallery

The next two portraits, one painted, one photographed, stopped me in my track, as I went around the gallery. I did a double take with both of them. Although I recognized them, it took me a while to figure out how.

Ewen Bremner, a Scottish actor born in Edinburgh, is best known his role in Trainspotting. I’ve never seen it, but I remember him as Red from Pearl Harbor.

I give you, Ser Jorah Mormont. Just kidding… Iain Glen, also a Scottish actor born in Edinburgh, is most known for his work on Game of Thrones, as well as the Resident Evil series.

Why did I single out these two portraits? Walking through an art museum seeing portraits of only royals and people you don’t know or recognize, they were friendly faces and a welcome sight.

Parting Thoughts on the National Galleries of Scotland

The galleries are definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re looking for a free activity for an afternoon. As I mentioned before, these are two of the three Scottish National Galleries, with the other being the Scotland National Gallery of Modern Art. If you’re an art fan, take some time to visit one, two, or all three of them!

And since no one will be visiting in person during the time of covid, I hope you enjoyed your virtual tour of all my favorites! More importantly, stay safe!

Looking for other ideas in and around Edinburgh?

• How about a Food Tour to introduce yourself to Scottish food?
• Go on an Outlander adventure and visit the fictional Lallybroch and Castle Leoch;
• Visit the Queen’s official residence in Scotland – the Palace of Holyrood House;
• Follow in Dan Brown’s footsteps over to Rosslyn Chapel;
• Check out St. Andrews and the fishing villages of Fife.

And if you’re traveling to Edinburgh from London, what about going via an overnight sleeper train! Travel in comfort overnight on the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness, Fort William and Aberdeen!

Please note that many products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. History of the Battle

The battle was fought between British soldiers (under the Duke of Cumberland, and loyal to King George II), and the Jacobite (Scottish) army. Leading up to the battle, Bonnie Prince Charlie (exiled Prince Charles Stuart, and claimant to the British Throne) raised an army of Scottish Jacobites to win back the British throne from King George II.

16 April 1746.

On that fateful day, in less than one hour, 1,600 men were killed. Of the slain, 1,500 were Jacobite soldiers. (Although sources differ on the exact number of soldiers killed during the battle, it ranges from 1,500 – 2,000 with the vast majority being Jacobite soldiers.)

Learn about Highlander culture

In the days that followed, not only was the battle devastating and brutal, the Jacobite defeat resulted in a loss of the highlander way of life. There have been many studies about this, and I won’t pretend that I’m an expert. But I do know this – much of the highlander culture was suppressed. As a simple example, their clothes (the highland dress, i.e. kilt) were declared illegal by Parliament, tartans were banned (but allowed in certain military situations).

The Bonnie Prince Charlie – Charles Stuart

2. Culloden Battlefield Museum

There is a visitor centre and museum built near the site of the battle. The museum is extremely informative and well curated. I’d definitely rank it as one of the best museums I’ve ever been to. With interactive and interesting exhibits, the museum did an amazing job sharing the history leading up to the battle. There is also a large section at the end full of artifacts collected from the battlefield – including rifles, bullets, as well as other things left behind from those who perished.

The photo shows the 20-foot memorial cairn at Culloden, built in 1881. The plaque reads:

The Battle of Culloden was fought on this moor 16th April, 1746. The graves of the Gallant Highlanders who fought for Scotland and Prince Charlie are marked by the names of their clans.

3. The Battlefield Grounds of Culloden Moor

After the museum, you are able to walk along a path in the grass to go through the area of the Culloden Battlefield. Walking along the battlefield itself, you can follow the battle lines on foot, denoted by red and blue flags. Red flags signify Loyalist English battle lines, and blue flags signify Jacobite battle lines.

The above photo is of the Leanach Cottage, which is located on the Culloden Battlefield. Although the date of construction is unknown, it’s believed to have been built in the early 18th century. That means it was actually standing during the battle. Maps from the mid-18th century show several other buildings and structures in this once-densely populated area. Inhabited until 1912, Leanach Cottage is one of the last remaining single-story thatched buildings. In 2019, Leanach Cottage was reopened to visitors.

Throughout the grounds, you’ll find clan markers to commemorate the clans that fought in the battle. Due to the popularity from Outlander fans, the National Trust has had to cordon off the patch of grass near the Clan Fraser marker. Let’s all be respectful of the memorials, is all I ask.

4. Parting Thoughts on my visit to Culloden Battlefield

The Culloden Battlefield is a must-visit, for anyone with interests in history or Highlander culture. It is a somber place but worth the visit to pay your respect to brave clansmen who fought for their country and their prince. The museum is extremely well curated with original artifacts and creative in their use of interactive media.

For history buffs and Outlander fans alike, you simply must visit Culloden Battlefield to learn more about the battle so important to Highlander culture, as well as Jamie and Claire’s story. And if your only connection to Culloden Moor is learning about it on Outlander, then, learn about the real history in person. No guarantees, but it will move you.

5. Information & FAQ to Visit Culloden Battlefield

An easy stop on any road trip in the Scottish Highlands, along the NC500, or on your way up to Orkney Islands! I would highly recommend you to set aside some time to visit Culloden Battlefield. Plus, its convenient location makes it easy to visit Culloden from Inverness. Experience Culloden, and travel back in time to defend the highland way of life.

How do I get to Inverness?

• 3 hours drive / 4 hours ScotRail train from Edinburgh;
• Fly to Inverness with or direct flights from London (Heathrow, Luton or Gatwick), Manchester, Birmingham, Dublin or Amsterdam;
• Or, if you’re coming from London, consider taking the Caledonian Sleeper. Depart in the evening from London Euston, wake up to Highland views over breakfast and arrive fresh in the morning in Inverness! Take a look at my review if you’re curious about the journey!

How do I get from Inverness to Culloden Battlefield?

• 30-45 minute Bus 27 from Inverness City
• Located only 30 minutes (by car) from Loch Ness

What are Culloden Battlefield hours of operation?

• The Battlefield is open 24 hours
• Visitor Center hours: Wednesday – Sunday, 10:00 to 16:00
  (Closed Monday-Tuesday)
• Adult ticket price: 11 GBP ($13 USD)
• National Trust members visit free!

Do you need to book in advance to visit Culloden Battlefield?

• No, pre-booking is no longer required at Culloden Battlefield.

Can you visit Culloden Battlefield for free?

• If you would like to walk around Culloden Battlefield, without visiting the Visitor Center, you may do so for free. Entrance tickets are for the visitor center and exhibits only.

How long to visit Culloden Battlefield?

• I would recommend allocating around 2 hours for your Culloden Battlefield visit. That will give you plenty of time to go through the exhibits and walk the battlefield lines.

Can you take photos at the Culloden Battlefield?

• Yes, you can take photos inside the museum and around the site. However, at historical sites like this where many people have perished, I am always remiss to take more photos. It’s a personal choice.

Are there any recommended small-group tours to Culloden?

• Glen Affric, Culloden & Clava Cairns – 1 day tour from Inverness, from 33 GBP / $40 USD;
• Loch Ness cruise, Culloden and a Whisky Distillery – 1 day tour from Inverness, from 67 GBP / $85 USD;
• Experience Culloden as part of the Outlander Trail – a 4-day small group tour from Edinburgh, from 294 GBP / $352 USD.

Should I consider a membership to NTS?

If visiting Scottish historical sites are your thing, consider becoming a member or gifting a membership to the National Trust of Scotland. Individual adult annual rates at 63 GBP ($89 USD).

• Seniors (60+): 55.80 GBP / $79 USD
• Youth (16 – 24): 36 GBP / $52 USD

Members enjoy wonderful benefits including unlimited and free entry to castles, gardens and historical sites. Free or concessionary entry to National Trust sites in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland are also included!

6. Ideas during your time in Inverness

Inverness is known as the capital of the Highlands and is a wonderful base for just exploring the surrounding areas or venturing deeper into the northern highlands. Here are some ideas to consider for your Inverness break:

• Stay in the lap of luxury at the 4-star Kingsmills Hotel for a golf and spa break or the 5-star Ness Walk, which is known as a luxury hotel that doesn’t break the bank;
• Eat at the delicious Mustard Seed, centered on highlighting local produce, and housed in a former church. Be sure to book a table in advance, especially during the high season!
• Grab some incredible street food at Redshank – at the Inverness Marina during the summer, and otherwise at the Victorian Market. Your belly will thank you!
• Don’t miss some incredible day trips from Inverness, including:
  • Jacobite Steam Train and Highlands Tour – explore the highlands and hop on the Hogwarts Express (the famous Jacobite steam train), starting from 139 GBP per person
  • Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle Day Trip – visit one of the most famous castles in Scotland (Eilean Donan) and then off to the magical Isle of Skye, starting from 65 GBP;
  • Loch Ness Cruise and Urquhart Castle – combine a trip to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle with a boat trip on the legendary Loch Ness itself, starting from 44 GBP per person.
• And, on the off chance that you need to break away and do some work on your holiday, the Inverness Impact Hub is a co-working space with meeting rooms, desk space, and strong wifi. I don’t suggest working on your holiday, but if need be, you might as well do it with a view of Inverness Castle!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Following from my last post, where we visited the epic operatic stage where James Bond & Mr. White meet in Quantum of Solace, let’s continue to chase 007 in and around Austria.  This next location brings us to Sölden – located in the Otzal Valley of the Austrian state of Tirol, high in the Austrian Alps. It apperas that James Bond loves Austria. We must share that in common.

During the winter months, Sölden is known for it’s skiing – and in the summer, mountain biking and hiking trails.  Everyone walking around town in the summer is carrying a bike or hiking sticks, and I presume ski poles replace those when it turns cold.

For the duration of this post, although Sölden is spelled with an umlaut over the o, I will refer to it as either Soelden or Solden.  All three are commonly used.  I am doing it because my keyboard does not have such a key and constantly copying and pasting one ö is silly…  Thank you for understanding!

1. James Bond filming location: 007 Elements in Spectre

Now.  Back to James. James Bond. 

In 2015’s Spectre, James travels to a health clinic in the Austrian Alps, to look for Mr. White’s daughter – Dr. Madeleine Swann.  She gets kidnapped and Bond pursues them in a prop plane that bursts through a farmhouse.

It is there that Q analyzes Mr. White’s ring, and they first realize the existence of Spectre.

The location of Dr. Swann’s clinic is actually ice Q, a restaurant located around 3,000 meters up in the Alps.

Gaislachkogl, the peak where ice Q and 007 Elements is located, is reachable by cable car or on foot from Solden.  ice Q’s modular, modernist design stands out from the alpine peaks surrounding it.

2. Visit 007 Elements

In July 2018, 007 Elements was unveiled in the building adjacent to ice Q, as a “cinematic installation” dedicated to the James Bond films.  I visited 007 Elements in the first few days after it opened. Being in July, you’d probably forget that it is actually really cold that high up. Most of the 007 Elements staff were wearing large winter parkas inside the exhibition.

Honestly, I would have appreciated if someone offered or warned me about how cold it would be inside the exhibit.  But, besides that, it was a fun exhibit, moving through various aspects of the films or the character.

Admission to 007 Elements is 22 EUR | $24 USD for adults, which does not include the cable car / gondola ticket.  With the round-trip gondola included, that increases to 49 EUR | $54 USD.  Of course, you can always hike from town up to Gaislachkogl – I know that people definitely do.  From my calculations, it should be about a 1,700 meter ascent…. So, either way, it will take money or effort to get to the top.

However, I think the price tag is a little steep for what it actually was.  For example, in the early movies, there was a ski pole gun that James used while skiing away from bad guys.  The ski pole gun is in the exhibit, but it’s not like you can play with it.  So looking at it from afar, while watching a clip of the scene where he uses the gun, is not super exciting.  It’s not 007 Elements’ fault – it’s just not that exciting to see it up close.

While you’re at the top, and since you’re spending boatloads of money anyway, you might as well stop in ice Q for a coffee and an apple strudel, with a view.

3. Parting Thoughts on this James Bond filming location

Part of what makes the James Bond movies so fun is the exotic filming locations. Imagining James Bond in the Alps and other far flung places gives your trip an exciting flair.

Visit 007 Elements if you’re a die hard James Bond fan.  For mediocre fans, it was fun, but was it worth chasing James Bond to the Alps? The scenery was stunning and makes it worthwhile!

If you’re thinking to visit Solden, you absolutely should! Solden is beautiful, and there’s lots to do in the vicinity besides 007 Elements. 

If you’re in the area, which I was, it’s worth it to stop by 007 Elements. However, it’s definitely not the main attraction of your stay in and around Otztal Valley.

For another James Bond filming location in Austria, check out my post on the Bregenz Festival!

4. Information to Visit 007 Elements

007 ELEMENTS | map
Otzal Valley, Austria
Daily 9:00 am to 3:30 pm

Phone: +43 (0) 5254 508 0
Email: 007elements@soelden.com

Online Tickets
Adult admission 22 EUR | $24 USD
Adult admission + gondola 49 EUR | $54 USD
Prices updated 22 December 2019

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In total, I spent 5 full days here. With action packed days, it was enough to eat, see, and do almost everything. This time, I was so lucky to have a travel buddy and super planner with me, who took the reigns of planning and execution and I just toddled along for the ride. It was a welcome change for someone who has gone at it alone for, at least, the last 9 countries. So, thank you Stef for being a super researcher, patient translator, and great friend!

So without further ado, here is my list of how Oaxaca melted my heart.

1. Visit Oaxaca for the People

Without a doubt, a city is only as welcoming as their people and Oaxaca is filled with warm and kind people. Let me just give you a few examples, which I just find so heartwarming and delightful

• the guard at the stamp museum who showed us how to open each of the vintage post boxes,
• the server at TacoVilla who went through the whole menu to make sure we understood each item (and then gave us a complementary order of sopapillas at the end of our meal!),
• all of the lovely locals who always greeted us with a smile and a Buenos Dias (good day!) either on the streets or in a restaurant,
• and even making sure to ask if we were enjoying our food, even if they were customers themselves!!! They wanted to make sure we were enjoying ourselves in their great city!

2. Quality of Life, also related to the people

Some of my fondest memories of this trip involve how local Oaxacans take time to enjoy life. During the day, the Zocalo is a lively square near the center of town filled with street vendors, shoe shiners, and elotes. On a Friday night, there were musicians and people dancing to the music while others were just sitting or standing around enjoying the evening.

One night, we took an hour and a half bike ride around the city, through an organization called Mundo Ceiba. Even though it was a little confusing at check in and the start of the ride, the organizers did an amazing job corralling and leading at least a hundred people. It wasn’t a hundred tourists though. Mostly they were locals of all ages with their families, enjoying the evening and the city they call home.  

The route went outside of the city center (Centro) and made its way into the smaller neighborhoods. The organizers kept cars at bay (with people holding up traffic) and through a loudspeaker and music, kept everyone engaged and their spirits high. For 70 pesos (approximately $4 USD) per person, it was a great way to get to know the city.

Another night, we ran into a wedding in town, which included a large procession with puppets, music, and dancers.  It was wonderful to see and be a part of.  Also, a warm congratulations to Adriana and Omar, who had a beautiful wedding in town that week

3. Wonderful Places and Spaces in Town

Oaxaca is just an amazing town center, with lots of character and charm everywhere you turn.  Looking into doorways and windows were a favorite activity of mine, because you never know when you will stumble on an art gallery, modern art exhibit, or restaurant.

3.1 Ethnobotanical Garden – Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca

The Ethnobotanical Garden (Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca) is a wonderful space in town, directly next to the main church. 

They offer English tours on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 11 am (2 hours) for 100 Pesos | $5.55 USD.  The tours give you an introduction to plants native to the area and a history of its domestication.  We were told that the tour usually sells out, and there are often people waiting in line before the garden opens at 11.  It’s true, there were people lined up, but the week we were there was an off week, and the town was unusually quiet.

3.2 Stamp Museum

Down the street from the garden, is the local stamp museum.  It’s very cute, and has a bigger and more interesting collection than you’d imagine.  It has a nice cafe and sitting area in the back and a cute gift shop in the front.  It’s free, so it’s worth a short stop on your way in or out of the gardens.

3.3 Amate Books

When roaming around town, you’re bound to come across Amate Books, which is a charming, local bookstore near the center.  So colorful and the decorations celebrate the indigenous local cultures.

3.4 Museum of Textiles

While walking around town, you’ll also come across the Museum of Textiles (free admission).  The museum is a charming space with rotating exhibitions of modern and traditional textiles, including textile-related art.  It closes at 8 pm, so there’s plenty of time to stop by.  There was a little. party going on when we stopped by one evening,

4. Visit Oaxaca for the Fun Day Trips!

We took two day trips out of the city, and they were both well worth it and easy to do!

4.1 Monte Alban

On the first trip, we went about half an hour outside of town to Monte Alban, which is a UNESCO heritage site known for its post-Classical archaeological ruins.  Monte Alban was built atop a mountain, with its architecture drawing inspiration from the hills and mountains.  It was the political and economic center for the Zapotecs.  Monte Alban is also featured on the back of a 20 Peso note.

We took a round trip bus from Oaxaca city to Monte Alban.  There were several providers, which could all be the same company.  The one we took was outside the Hotel Rivera del Angel, on Francisco Javier Mina (street), near the November 20 market.  The bus left Oaxaca on the half hours, in the morning, and returned from Monte Alban on the hour.  The journey takes about half and hour, winding up a mountain and through small villages.  The roundtrip ticket cost 55 Pesos |~$3 USD.  Alternatively, you could sign up and take a guided tour.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Entrance into the site cost 70 Pesos, and tickets can be bought via credit card using a digital kiosk.  There is a small museum with some artifacts and history, in Spanish only, and a small cafe.  We spent between 2-3 hours here, which was plenty of time to walk through each station and to read the corresponding plaques, which gave information in Spanish, English, and Zapotec. 

But be aware, there is little shade and the distance between buildings and structures can be harsh under the midday sun.  There are locals selling hats and umbrellas outside the entrance, in case you forgot yours.

4.2 Mitla, and the surrounding areas

It’s possible to see a bunch of really interesting places with a day trip outside the city.  It’s not that far, distance wise, but the countryside is vastly different from town and is worth making arrangements to go.  From research, I understand that hiring a private driver is fairly normal and easy to do. Had our Airbnb host not offered to shuttle us around, we would have found our own.   

Our full day tour took us to Arbol del Tule, Mitla, Hierve el Agua, and Mercado de Tlacolula.  Visiting Teotitlan del Valle (a textile, artisan village) would have been possible as well, but we took our time with a long breakfast and an extra visit with an artisan mezcal producer. 

Read all about the day trip to Mitla and surrounding areas

5. Visit Oaxaca for the FOOD

I know I consider myself a food expert, but in reality, I just like eating it. And enjoying it! And boy did I enjoy eating food in Oaxaca!

My fellow blogging friend will do better at explaining all the Oaxaca Street Food we ate. Considering she is an expert chef, I won’t describe everything we ate in detail. But, I will say – the freshly made tortillas were amazing!  You could smell the corn as you took each bite. 

Everything was made with fresh tortillas of varying thicknesses, colors, and levels of softness or crispiness.  These tortillas were often accompanied by beans, cheese, guacamole, meat, mole, and other veggies.  The google map has each spot we ate at marked down.  The real winner was Itanoni, which is known for its corn and tortilla products.  A little bit outside of the center of town, IT WAS SO WORTH IT!

All the places we ate at are listed on the map at the bottom of the post! Try them all!

Parting Thoughts on Oaxaca

So even though this post is more pictures than words, there is just so much to love and to share about Oaxaca. There’s just too much, especially on the food front, to do a proper recap, but everything worth mentioning is included in the Google Map below. 

In short, Oaxaca is a magical place that will capture your heart and soul.  Throughout your whole stay, you’ll probably comment about 10 times a day how charming a place is, how lovely that place is, and what a wonderful quality of life they have there.  And then you’ll know – you’re hooked on Oaxaca too!

I hope I’ve given you a few reasons to visit Oaxaca or at least to put it on your radar for the future. It’s delightful, the people are warm and lovely, and it’s absolutely delicious!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Titanic
2. Game of Thrones.

I can confidently say that Titanic Belfast is arguably the BEST MUSEUM I’VE EVER BEEN TO, and therefore the best thing to do in Belfast!  But no need to trust me.  Trust the “World’s Best Tourist Attraction Award” it won at the World Travel Awards (aka Tourism Oscars).

Now, in the time of COVID, you need to book your tickets in advance. I booked a student ticket for “The Titanic Experience”, at 15.50 GBP ($22 USD), which included the Titanic exhibits (self guided), as well as entry to the SS Nomadic – the White Star Line’s last remaining Vessel, and original tender boat to the RMS Titanic. 

But we’ll get to the Titanic in a bit. First thing’s first. Food.

Disclaimer: this post contains only iPhone photos, out of laziness and exhaustion from carrying my camera gear.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Pre-Museum Breakfast in Belfast

My day started near the Botanic train station.  Nearby is Maggie Mays Belfast Cafe, which its website boasts as the “best home cooking in Belfast”.  Beware, it’s cash only.  I didn’t really know what Northern Irish breakfast was like, but after lots of smoked salmon and eggs in Scotland, I was ready for a change.

As an American, cheesy beans on toast is not a thing. In fact, beans are rarely a breakfast item. But when in Belfast, do as the Northern Irish do.

In case you were wondering, this breakfast is definitely a knife and fork activity.  Pretty delicious and extremely filling, it keep me full for several hours.  And then I set off on a long walk, about 2.5 miles (50 minutes), from the Botanic area to Titanic Belfast.

2. En route to the Titanic Belfast

Long meandering is very much my style, mainly because you get to see lots of the city by walking.  Taking the train is also an option – its an easy route from Botanic to the Titanic Quarter station.  But the more I walk, the more I am able to eat by the time the next meal rolls around. Titanic Belfast is located across the River Lagan from the rest of the city.

Along the way, you’re able to pass City Hall, many charming Victorian buildings, the Albert Clock (commemorating Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband), and the Spirit of Belfast.

The Albert Clock (lower left) was built on marshy, reclaimed land near the river, and as a result has begun to lean.  Nearby, is the Spirit of Belfast sculpture (lower right), which like all sculptures in a capital city, has some kind of controversy surrounding it.  The Spirit was built after a city-wide competition for a sculpture, and won a majority of votes.  However, it didn’t stop someone from adding a banner with the bold word “FAIL” to the front of it in 2012.

2.1 The Salmon of Knowledge

When you come out of the city area, and reach the riverbanks of the Lagan, you are greeted by the Big Fish, or the Salmon of Knowledge.  Yes, there is a Salmon of Knowledge in Belfast. I mean, if I didn’t already tell you that I thought Titanic Museum was the best thing to do in Belfast, I’m sure visiting the salmon of knowledge would have been your guess.

The Salmon was built to commemorate the return of fish to the River Lagan in 1999.  Development of the river areas, reclaiming land, and changes to the river that almost entirely changed the landscape of Belfast … all of this aided in the loss of marine life to the river.  But thankfully now, the fishies are back again.

And then onward, to the Belfast Harbour and the SS Nomadic.  All along the river, there are signs with historical facts about Belfast and its shipbuilding industry.

3. The Titanic Belfast

When I arrived to the museum, my friend texted me, asking about my plans for the day. I was about to visit the Titanic museum, I said.  To which she replied, “Why is there a Titanic Museum in Belfast?”  Great question.  The Titanic was built in Belfast!  In their dry docks, with their laborers.

The museum was built on the original site of the shipyard where Titanic was built.  It is a large, squarish building, with at least 6 floors of exhibitions. 

At first, this made me a little nervous, because big museums can be… boring, if not curated properly.  But I can say, without a doubt, the museum was fantastic!  Very interactive, a lot of videos and audio files to listen to.  The exhibits expertly used technology and computer animation to give facts and offer perspective into size or volume. 

It even started out with a history of Belfast section, which I very much appreciated, introducing the various industries that gave rise to Belfast’s industrialization… for example, linens, whiskey, and finally, shipbuilding. Back in the day, Belfast was the number one producer of linens made from flax – really cool, right?

Exhibits at Titanic Belfast:

• Boomtown Belfast
• The Shipyard – which includes an amusement park-like ride through a recreation of a shipyard and moves through a scale replica of Titanic’s rudder (it’s enormous!  but poorly lit, so no good photos or videos)
• The Launch – launch into Belfast Lough – May 31, 1911
• The Fit-Out, including a sample of each class of cabin, and a 360 degree computer generated tour through Titanic’s levels (shown in the bottom right photo of Prince Harry and Ms. Meghan Markle’s visit below)
• The Maiden Voyage – the journey from Southampton to Cherbourg, then Cobh, and then finally, across the Atlantic
• The Sinking – April 14/15, 1912
• The Aftermath
• Myths & Legends (including media portrayal)
• and finally, Titanic Beneath – a video and exhibit floor about the wreckage and rediscovery of Titanic

I probably spent about 2 hours in the museum, and about half an hour in the SS Nomadic tender. Admission to the SS Nomadic tender came with my Titanic ticket. 

The Nomadic is a tender boat, used to ferry passengers to the Titanic and its sister ship, the Olympic.  It was built in the spillways next to the Olympic and Titanic in the Harland and Wolff shipyards. 

No matter what, the Nomadic is not as exciting especially when you come there directly following the world’s greatest museum.  But it was an interesting small vessel and worth the visit since you’re in the neighborhood.  Charlie Chaplin, from the photo above, was one of the famous people that had used the Nomadic back in the day.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

4. Lunch at Yardbird Belfast

Afterwards, I backtracked my original path, walked about 20 minutes towards the Albert Clock, in search of my lunch spot, Yardbird.  Yardbird specializes in free roaming, roast chicken.  Marinated for 24 hours and roasted on a spit.  Lunch is served from 12-5 pm, so there’s plenty of time to take advantage of their 5 GBP lunch specials (SO LEGIT).

Naturally, I ordered a lunch special.

The meat from the chicken was literally falling off the bones!!  After I finished… I was … still hungry.  (HEY!  I walked A LOT!)  And the table near me had an order of corn on the cob, so instead of ordering just a corn, of course, I ordered a second lunch special.

Although Yardbird isn’t the best thing to do in Belfast, like the Titanic Museum, it sure could be! I don’t have to explain how delicious it is – from my second helping, it’s pretty obvious.

5. Wrapping up the day

Full bellied and immediately satisfied, I left Yardbird to make my way home.  Along the way, I passed by Pottinger’s Entry.  There are several other entryways along the side off of the High Street in Belfast, but this is the most obvious with the big sign.  Curious, I peaked in, which revealed an alleyway and and a pub tucked behind it.

6. Parting Thoughts on my day in Belfast

Sometimes large museums can be daunting. You may struggle to keep your attention. But not Titanic Belfast! All of the exhibits were well-thought-out and very interesting. Even now, a few years later, I can still remember specific details about the exhibits. Belfast’s history is rich and diverse. You’ll learn so much by visiting Titanic Belfast.

If you’re willing to spend the time to learn, then Titanic Belfast is definitely the best thing to do in Belfast. Absolutely the most interesting museum I’ve ever been to!

Be sure you eat a hearty breakfast before. Nothing is worse than losing energy in a big museum! Aaaaand, maybe follow it up with an amazing roast chicken lunch or two!

7. Titanic Belfast Visitor Information

1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road,
Belfast BT3 9EP
Phone: +44 28 9076 6386
Website
Hours of operation: Check the website for up to date opening information.

2021 ticket prices

• Adult: 19 GBP ($26 USD)
• Child (5 – 16): 8.50 GBP ($12 USD)
• Child, under 5: FREE
• Family pack (2 adults, 2 children): 46.50 GBP ($65 USD)
• Essential carer: FREE
• Student (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)
• Senior (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)

8. Half Day Itinerary Recap

• 9 AM: Cheesy beans on toast at Maggie May’s | map
  • walk past City Hall, Spirit of Belfast, Albert Clock, Salmon of Knowledge
• 10:30 AM: greatest museum experience at Titanic Belfast | map
• 1:45 PM: double lunch specials at Yardbird | map
• Explore Pottinger’s Entry, along with other Entry’s
• 3 PM: Fin

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m not ashamed to admit that I slept really early that first night in Warsaw.  Which probably led me to wake up even earlier.  But Sundays in Europe… get started late, if at all.  And even the milk bars wouldn’t open until 11 am.  And what time did I wake up?  6 am.  My breakfast choices were either Starbucks (across the street) or at the hotel.  So I chose to eat at the hotel.

Now before the judgments start flying in, bagels originated from the Jewish communities in Poland.  So there.  Still eating local foods!

1. Warsaw Rising (Uprising) Museum

After I packed and checked out, I walked over to the Warsaw Rising (or Uprising) Museum, which is free on Sundays!  This is by far one of the most interesting museums I’ve ever been to.  It collected thousands of artifacts from the Polish Resistance during WWII, had interesting items on exhibit, and shared lots of individual stories of people who fought in the resistance.  I will say it was somewhat of a maze to get through, and I have a suspicion that I didn’t actually see all of it.  (For example, I went around in circles following a sign to get to the observation tower, which I never figured out…)  They also took great care to shield the more graphic photographs and videos from younger audiences, via sections sealed off with a heavy velvet curtains and a warning sign, or something like a well, where adults can look down into it and see some photos (but children are too short to see), etc.

Really awesome museum visit and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to understand Warsaw during WWII.

2. Neon Muzeum

After the Uprising Museum, I took a tram to the artsy neighborhood of Praga, to visit the Neon Muzeum.  Housed in an old warehouse, the Neon Muzeum is dedicated to Soviet-era neon signs, although I’m not really sure why only Soviet / cold war era signs.  But I digress.  It’s a small space, with a good collection.  But not all of the signs were lit up, which was kind of disappointing.

Here are some of my favorites.

3. Old Town Warsaw

From the Neon Muzeum, I finally went into Old Town.  And it was as quaint and colorful as I wanted it to be.  I keep mentioning in my Instagram posts that the Old Town Warsaw was completely destroyed in WWII.  But just as a gentle reminder, they rebuilt everything as it was before the war.  That’s no small feat.

While walking around Old Town, I finally managed to find Zapiecek, AND IT WAS OPEN.  (recall from my previous Warsaw post that I passed by 2 stores only to have one with a line out the door and the other closed for a few weeks).  So I ordered the Pierogie Tasting Menu… and winter tea (tea with ginger and oranges, and so delicious).

It was so amazing as my last Polish meal, and the best way to top off a cold but adventurous weekend!  From there, it was a 45 minute brisk walk, with the Hamilton soundtrack blasting in my ears, and me singing along, roaming the streets of Warsaw.  And then back to the hotel and off to the airport!

If you didn’t catch the beginning of my 36 hour trip to Warsaw, read about it here!

Day 2 Recap*:

• 6 AM: breakfast and laziness at Warsaw Marriott | map
• 10 AM: a dose of history at the Warsaw Rising Museum | map
• 12 PM: bright lights at the Neon Muzeum | map
• 1:30 PM: Old Town and lunch at Zapiecek | map
• 3 PM: Long walk back to the Warsaw Marriott
• 4:30 PM: Leave for Chopin Airport! (using Uber, from the Marriott, was 28 zlotys | $8 USD)

*To view Day 2’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 1 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Overnight train to Warsaw

The night train from Vienna Hauptbanhof leaves around 10:15 pm and arrives in Warsaw Central around 9:15 am.  I paid ~ 130 EUR for a single berth compartment, with a washbasin.  It’s the same compartment as the 3-berth, but the two other bunks were up against the wall.  Here is a short video of inside of the tiny compartment.  (Yes, I am wearing hello kitty shorts, seen in the reflection of the window. The temperature when I first boarded the train blasted heat on high and I could not handle it.)

Watch this video on YouTube.

The compartment was clean and the ride was relatively smooth.  It took awhile to figure out the main light switch and temperature adjustment switch. All of them are above the door, which required me to stand on top of my bed to reach.  When we reached Krakow around 6 am, there was a mild annoyance. The attendant woke Krakow passengers up around 5 am, which caused a lot of commotion and various noises.  But like I said, only a mild complaint.  In the morning, before we arrived in Warsaw, they served breakfast – hot coffee and an unexciting piece of bread with cheese and jam.

1. Arrival to Warsaw!

The first thing you see when you leave the Warsaw Central station is this magnificent beauty. Even though I arrived in the morning, the photo was taken at night (obviously).

This beloved giant was a “gift” from Stalin to the people of Warsaw. The Palace of Culture and Science (or PKiN for short) was built in the 1950s and designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev in the style of socialist realism.  An imposing building that stands out in the Warsaw skyline, it’s still relatively controversial among the locals who see it as a reminder of Soviet influence.

But I digress.  I went across the street from the central station to the Warsaw Marriott hotel (8,000 Chase points transferred to Marriott).  My room wasn’t ready yet, but that’s fine.  I was ready for some pierogies.  I knew exactly where I was going to go. 

2. Bar Bambino for pierogies

Bar Bambino, a traditional Polish “milk bar” or bar mleczny in Polish.  Retro’ish milk bars have popped up in Warsaw as a throwback to the Soviet days, when food was scarce and state-run restaurants served cheap eats.

I looked at the menu online on the train and google translated a few items.  But I was unprepared for the FULL BOARD of menu items.  Milk bars typically don’t have English menus or English speakers.  What to do? I stood at the board staring mindlessly at all the choices.  I let a few people go in front of me, while I watched how they ordered, took their receipt up to the window and handed it to the kitchen women as they waited for their food.  And then, when finished, took their plate up to the other window for dishwashing.

When I finally felt confident enough to order, I basically walked the woman behind the cashier up to the board and pointed to the first item under the pierogi category.  You really can’t go wrong with choosing the first item.  It was 7.80 zlotys, which is about $2.30 USD.  Surprise pierogi for breakfast! For those who don’t know, pierogies are dumplings, usually comprised of potato, cheese, and/or onion, and are typically boiled.

It was mushroom filled!  and a great choice!  What was so surprising was the huge slab of butter that appeared on my pierogies, and had melted by the time I brought the plate to my table.  Well, if this is how locals do it, I might as well embrace the butter.  Remember this phrase, which could be a motto for life in Europe… ✨✨EMBRACE THE BUTTER✨✨.

3. Chopin Museum

From Bar Bambino, I walked on toward the Frederic (Fryderyk) Chopin Museum.  The museum, housed in an old mansion, which like much of Warsaw, was destroyed in WWII and then rebuilt to exact specifications after the war.

Chopin is the favored son of Warsaw, and the namesake of the Warsaw International Airport in town.  Although he died in Paris, he wanted his heart sent back to Warsaw. And so it was… in a jar of cognac…  Still interred in the same jar, his heart now resides at the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw.  I don’t know if you can see the jar or the heart but there you have it.  It’s there.

The Chopin Museum is fairly well done.  It relies a lot on technology – the entrance ticket is a card. Most exhibit items required you to scan the card to hear his music, or to hear about his life, etc.  It was a little unnecessary at best.  A button “activating” the exhibit would have sufficed.  But nonetheless, it was a nice museum dedicated to his life and music.

4. Desserts at Odette

After the museum, I was hungry.  Does that happen to anyone else?  I mean, also, the butter periogies were probably still digesting.  But I know I had to try some of the desserts that Warsaw is famous for.  {So the choice that did NOT win, was a chocolate lounge…}  The winner was Odette, a decadent patisserie, hidden a few side streets away from the Royal Route.

I obviously did not know what dessert corresponded to what flavor, but I figured a brown one could never go wrong.  Flavors could have included chocolate, coffee, hazelnut, etc.  And yet, the dessert I chose had none of those flavors.

With each bite, I really tried hard to think of what flavors were in this dessert.  And to be honest, I literally COULD NOT figure it out.  So blast me if you will, I tried really hard to identify it.  What it was not: chocolate, coffee, or hazelnut flavored.

5. The hunt for traditional Polish food

After dessert, I went back to the hotel to check in and take a little nap.  By 3:30 pm, I decided it was time for a late lunch and I set out looking for a specific, traditional Polish restaurant that had multiple locations around town.  I passed one of the locations, which had a huge line out the door, and decided to move on toward the second location.  The second location was closed until February 13th.  So I walked on to the third location, in the heart of Old Town.  But I was met with a police blockade of the whole Old Town area.  (I later heard that if there is any kind of political event, they just shut down Old Town.)  I couldn’t go around, and the police told us everything was shut down so we should turn around.

By this point, I WAS STARVING.  As I walked back, I decided to just eat in any Polish restaurant I came across, determined to stick with my theme of eating only Polish food.  I came across Ceprownia, which had a sign for a Potato Pancake Festival in the doorway.  That’s good enough for me.

By the time I finished dinner, it was around 5 pm.  All of the museums were closed and I would be unable to attend my evening plan, a Chopin concert in Old Town, so I went back to the hotel and was lazy for the rest of the night.  No judgment… part of vacation is relaxing!  Stay tuned for the conclusion of my weekend in Poland.

6. Photos along the way

But first, here are some random scenes from Warsaw.

Day 1 Recap*

• 9:30 AM: arrival to Warsaw Central Station | map
• 10:15 AM: Pierogies at the Bar Bambino milk bar | map
• 11 AM: mixing technology and music at the Chopin Museum | map
• 12:30 PM: morning desserts at Odette | map
• << nap time >>
• 4 PM: early dinner at Ceprownia | map
• finished for the day, since Old Town was closed off…

*To view Day 1’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 2 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

Onwards to Episode 2 of 36 Hours in Warsaw!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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