They’re not in order of importance, they’re all equally as great!

1. Arles, France (1888 – 1889)

Located in the southern part of France, in the Provence region, Van Gogh had some of his most prolific years in Arles (pronounced ARL). When he lived in Arles, Van Gogh painted an astonishing 187 paintings. During that time, he tried to set up an artist commune with fellow artist, Paul Gauguin, at the Yellow House. While they had a couple of months of painting, drink and general fun loving male bonding, an argument erupted between the two of them, which resulted in two things: Gauguin leaving Arles (never to see Vincent again), and van Gogh horrifyingly cutting off his own ear (on December 23, 1888). Yes, all of that took place in what is otherwise, an extremely delightful village in southern France.

While the Yellow House no longer exists (it was destroyed during WWII), one of the famous van Gogh sites you can visit in Arles is the Yellow Cafe. The Yellow Cafe (now Le Cafe Van Gogh) is located in the Place du Forum in Arles. The painting, actually entitled Café Terrace at Night, was the first time van Gogh had painted stars in a night sky. The painting itself is located in the Kroller-Muller Museum in the Netherlands (which we’ll get to).

Besides the Café Terrace (or Yellow Cafe), to follow in the footsteps of van Gogh in Arles, the tourism authority has a Van Gogh self-guided walking tour which takes you to spots which inspired or are depicted in his paintings. Although I did this many moons ago in 2008 (hence the lack of photos), I can say that this Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is incredible.

Or, if you’d like a private walking tour of Arles that covers both Van Gogh and Roman sites, there are options for those as well.

Another place worth mentioning in Arles, is now called L’espace van Gogh – the town’s library and exhibition space, with souvenir shops. 130 years ago, when Van Gogh lived in Arles, this location was the town’s hospital. Van Gogh stayed in this hospital several times during his time in Arles, but most famously after he cut of his ear. The inner courtyard is maintained to look similar to his painting – Garden of the Hospital in Arles.

Entry to L’espace van Gogh is free, except for exhibitions.

On May 8, 1889, Van Gogh left Arles, to check in to the asylum in Saint Remy de Provence. Good segway.

2.  Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France (1889 – 1890)

After Van Gogh left Arles, he voluntarily checked into the asylum called Monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole, which is located 1.5 km south of the village of Saint-Remy-de-Provence. A former monastery, during Van Gogh’s time, it was a “lunatic asylum.” I use that word in quotes because that’s how they referred to it during that time. Van Gogh spent about one year in Saint-Paul de Mausole, where he painted 142 paintings.

On your visit to Saint-Paul de Mausole (website in French only), you can see the room that Van Gogh stayed in. It’s a somber place to visit, given all that he must have endured while there. Tickets are 6.50 EUR.

If you happen to visit Saint-Paul de Mausole mid-June to mid-August, yo’ll be in time for lavender season. The monastery has a beautiful lavender field surrounding the location. I went in early October, too late for purple fields.

Van Gogh painted his famous Starry Night (1889) during his time at the asylum in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. The window of his room faced east, and the painting depicts the view a fictional village just before sunrise. The painting is part of the collection at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.

Saint-Remy-de-Provence also has a Van Gogh self-guided walking tour to follow, which highlights some of the locations of his famous cyprus tree and olive tree paintings.

Alternatively, be guided around Provence from Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, or Marseille and bask in the picturesque countryside.

A scene from Saint-Remy-de-Provence area, where Van Gogh lived between 1889-1890.

Before we move on from Provence, if you’re a fan of art, consider visiting Carrières de Lumières, located in Les Baux-de-Provence (a 15 minute drive away). Carrières de Lumières is an indoor art installation, housed in an old stone quarry. Nowadays, you’ll see these Immersive Van Gogh Experiences in all the major cities. However, I can tell you that Carrières de Lumières is the original. Back in 2016 when I visited, there wasn’t anything like it in the world – and it’s phenomenal! While the Immsersive Van Gogh Experience focuses only on Van Gogh, Carrières de Lumières changes artists each season. When I went, it was Marc Chagall. Anyway, if you’re already visiting Van Gogh sites, I’d highly recommend this slight “artsy” detour.

3. Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands

Located an hour and a half drive away from Amsterdam, hidden inside De Hoge Veluwe National Park, is the Kröller-Müller Museum. Honestly, most people haven’t heard of the Kröller-Müller Museum, but it is arguably one of the best Van Gogh sites to visit! It houses the largest private collection of Van Gogh paintings, and is the second largest Van Gogh collection in the world. It’s only second to the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam!

The Kröller-Müller Museum is truly an incredible place, with 90 paintings and over 180 of Van Gogh’s drawings. While this is probably one of the least famous Van Gogh sites, I would highly recommend making the effort to visit – if you’re a true Van Gogh fan!

Adult tickets are 11.10 EUR.

Without a car, a visit to the Kröller-Müller Museum is doable but time consuming. I had a car hire and drove from Amsterdam (approximately 1 hour). Or consider taking a private tour from Amsterdam!

Evening Landscape with Rising Moon and detail. Painted during his time in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. Currently located in the Kröller-Müller Museum.

4. Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam, Netherlands

I’ve been to Amsterdam several times, and most of the time I visit, I’ll make it a point to stop at one of their great museums. Along with the Rijksmuseum and Moco Museum (Museum and Modern Art), the Van Gogh Museum is arguably one of my favorite places to visit in Amsterdam, and probably one of the most famous Van Gogh sites in the world. Having the largest collection of Van Gogh works, it’s really an absolute must! It’s wonderfully curated, and each time I’ve visited, I see new pieces and familiar pieces alike.

Tickets are 19 EUR and a time slot must be reserved in advance. But for you photo or instagram enthusiasts, photos are only allowed in select areas (i.e. the entry hall and selfie wall).

For those staying in Amsterdam for a few days, I highly recommend the I Amsterdam Card, which gives you access to public transport, bicycle rental, river cruises, and entry to over 70 museums (including free entry to the Van Gogh museum!). A 24-hour pass is 65 EUR and includes so much!

The following places are sites for the super Van Gogh fans, which I haven’t been to. So, they’re not included in my “Best of” list above, since I can’t attest to it. But far be it for me to deny crucial information on famous Van Gogh sites.

– Other Van Gogh Sites –

1. Birthplace (1853), Zundert, Netherlands – Vincent van GoghHuis – tickets 8 GBP
2. Home in 1883, Drenth, Netherlands – Van Gogh Huis Drenthe – tickets 6 EUR
3. Home 1879 – 1880, Cuesmes, Belgium – Maison Van Gogh – tickets 4 EUR
4. Home 1881, Etten-Leur, Netherlands (and his parents home from 1875-1882) – The Van Gogh Church in Etten – tickets 5 GBP.
5. Place of death, Auvers-sur-Oise, France

• For the last 70 days of Van Gogh’s life, he lived in Auvers-sur-Oise, a commune 27 km northwest of Paris. While living there, he stayed in Auberge Ravoux, as a lodger, where he painted 80 paintings and 64 sketches. He shot himself in the chest on July 27, 1890, and died two days later. The inn is now a museum and tourist site (tickets are 6 EUR). His room has been preserved, although none of the original furniture remains. Both Vincent and his brother Theo are buried in the cemetary in Auvers-sur-Oise, France.

Parting Thoughts on Visiting Van Gogh Locations

For avid Van Gogh fans, I think it’s really special to visit sites that are both important in his life, but also the museums that have helped to preserve his legacy. Van Gogh wasn’t famous or successful during his life, and it was only after his death that he grew in popularity. Since he led quite a tragic life, many of the sites in Arles and Provence are somber, melancholic even.

For those super fans and admirers of his work, Arles is the absolute must-visit. The Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is so surreal – walking along the same streets he did, seeing the same trees and rivers. That feeling can’t really be described. It’s incredible! Arles is definitely one of the famous Van Gogh sites worth visiting!

If you’re planning to do an all out road trip to visit Van Gogh locations, Tea, an art historian and travel blogger, has it all mapped out. Fun stuff! Check it out!

For those who love art, check out my other art themed posts:

• Alphonse Mucha and art nouveau in Brno, Czechia;
• national treasures at the Scottish National Galleries in Edinburgh;
• Visiting Giverny, Monet’s famous lily garden outside of Paris;
• and immerse yourself in digital art with the great artists, like Chagall and Van Gogh!

Until next time, stay curious and stay healthy!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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1. Intro to the pyramid at Balmoral

This story starts at Balmoral Castle, a private residence of King Charles III. Prior to King Charles’ ascension to the throne, Balmoral was a favorite summer residence for Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth II passed away while on hoilday in Balmoral on September 8, 2022.

Back to Balmoral – it is a personal and private residence held in the royal family. This differs from Holyrood Palace, which is the British Monarch’s official residence in Scotland. You’ll often find the royal family at Balmoral during smmer holidays.

Back in 1852, Prince Albert (the beloved husband of Queen Victoria) purchased the castle and estate from the Farquharson family. The castle was soon deemed too small, and the current Balmoral Castle as you know it today was commissioned.

Queen Victoria was known for many things, but the things that stand out to me are:

• her longevity – she lived to be 81,
• her large family – by my count, she had 9 children,
• and her love for her husband, the prince consort.

Throughout Queen Victoria’s life, following their purchase of Balmoral, she began to erect stone cairns to commemorate the marriages of her children, and eventually the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.

2. But is a cairn a Scottish pyramid?

Not necessarily. A cairn (stemming from Scottish Gaelic word, càrn) is a man-made pile, or stack, of stones. Cairns have been around since pre-historic times and are still currently used as landmarks, often as trail markers, for commemorating events or deaths, or for ceremonial purposes.

Currently, there are 11 cairns erected in and around the Balmoral estate. 8 are to commemorate the marriages of most of her children. Why do I only say most? For unknown reasons, the Queen’s son, Prince Alfred is the only one who does not have a cairn dedicated to him. Most of these cairns are your quintessential man-made pile of stones, not quite your Scottish pyramid.

Ok, but why is there a pyramid in scotland? Obviously, the grandest of all the cairns, also known as the Balmoral Pyramid, is the one dedicated to the Queen’s husband, Prince Albert. The Prince Albert Cairn is the Scottish pyramid.

3. How to visit the Prince Albert Cairn?

The Balmoral Castle Estate sits inside Cairngorms National Park in the Eastern part of Scotland. The Scottish pyramid is located on the grounds of Balmoral Castle estate, in Royal Deeside, Aberdeenshire, in the Highlands. If you’re going to explore the area, it’s easiest to do so with a rental car. To visit,

3.1 Car Park for the Prince Albert Cairn

You don’t need to buy a ticket to Balmoral Castle in order to visit the Prince Albert Cairn – or any of the other cairns honestly. The only thing you need to pay for is parking. I can’t remember how much it was – maybe £2 – £4. It helps to have coins for the machine. But if not, easily fixable. You’ll just walk to the Balmoral Castle ticket office there and pay for parking. Be sure to walk back to your car and put the ticket in the window!

3.2 The first section / detour to Balmoral Castle

From the car park, you will cross a bridge over the River Dee. With the ticket office in front of you, (and Balmoral Castle to the right) turn left. This will start your path to the Prince Albert Cairn, also known as, your very first Scottish pyramid experience.

(Or, choose your own adventure! Detour to Balmoral Castle for an interesting audio guide, beautiful castle, and gorgeous gardens! Lots of walking trails on the grounds, as well – it’s worth the visit!)

The cost to visit Balmoral, based on their 2022 prices:

• Adult 16.50 GBP / 20 USD;
• Children 7.50 GBP / 9 USD.

Note: The real Balmoral Castle is not the filming location for Balmoral in Netflix’s The Crown. That was filmed in Ardverikie Estate (about 2 hours away).

4. Hiking the Prince Albert Cairn loop at Balmoral

You’ll notice the title of this section starts with “Hiking”. I mean it’s just that. A hike. This hike is also known as the Balmoral Cairns Walk, but in reality – it’s more than a walk. Prepare for a hike, knowing that Scotland can have all 4 seasons in one day. Bring plenty of water, and maybe a snack. The full loop of this hike is 4.9 miles (less than 8 km). You don’t have to do the full loop – the pièce de résistance (Prince Albert Cairn) is not the last cairn you see on this circular walk. Do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For me, I was determined to do the full loop. But I was particular exhausted on this hike, because I was carrying a lot of camera gear..as always! I would rank it as medium challenging. It was a nice, steady uphill. You’ll see different cairns along the way, and it’s generally really gorgeous.

From the frequent rain, at times the path was really muddy. Good hiking boots will help with the mud. (Mine are Merrell’s Waterproof Boots (UK) / (US), which are great and absolutely essential for the muddy peat bog that is Scotland.)

CLICK HERE to download AllTrails to your phone

After you’ve taken that left from the ticket office, you’ll walk seemingly on a road… (and yes, it is the B976 – don’t worry. traffic is scant… if any at all). The River Dee is on your left side, a field with some hilly coos on your right side.

If you see a bridge in the distance, it should be around the time you see a fork to the right and uphill. Fork! That’s the right direction. You’ll pass by the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and a few cottages along the way, and away you go!

And our first cairn along the way!

Dedicated to HRH Princess Beatrice,
Married to HRH
Prince Henry Maurice of Battenberg.
23rd July 1885.

After more uphill hiking and some delicious time spent forest bathing, the Scottish Pyramid comes into view.

The Prince Albert Cairn is perched on the top of the hill. The trees fall away, with the pyramid and the Cairngorms coming into view.

The Balmoral Pyramid, built from granite, stands at a height of 35 feet. The square base measures 41 feet x 41 feet.

I spent a lot of time around the pyramid. It’s really peaceful up at the top, and you have stunning views of the valley below. There is an inscription on the pyramid which says:

To the beloved memory of Albert the great and good, Prince Consort. Erected by his broken hearted widow Victoria R. 21st August 1862

I saw one more cairn for Princess Louise after the Scottish pyramid. It brought my total number of cairns on this loop to 3. I thought I would see more than that on this loop, or maybe I did but didn’t notice, being exhausted from carrying my extensive camera gear in tow. But, 3 out of 11 cairns ain’t bad! It was still a great hike and one worth doing!

If you’re looking for all of the cairns on the Balmoral site, you’ll be able to find:

• Diamond jubilee cairn, to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 year reign
• Princess Alice cairn
• Princess Helena cairn
• Prince Leopold cairn
• Prince Arthur cairn
• Purchase cairn, or the Ballochbuie Cairn, marks Queen Victoria’s purchase of the Ballochbuie forest in 1878
• and the Princess Royal cairn.

5. After your Scottish pyramid walk!

Don’t forget to check out Balmoral Castle, if you didn’t before your hike! There’s also a cafe there, in case you’d like a little, well-deserved snack.

Now, if you’re looking for something stronger, don’t forget – you passed the Royal Lochnagar Distillery on the way in. And since this is a loop, you’ll pass it on the way out!

5.1 The Royal Lochnagar Distillery

The Royal Lochnagar Distillery is based at the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside. It was awarded its Royal Warrant, following a visit by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and three of their children in 1848.

The Royal Lochnagar is a Highland whisky, which produces mostly for Johnnie Walker’s Black and Blue labels. It also produces single malt whiskies, as well. You can tour their distillery and enjoy their 12 year old, Distillery Exclusive Bottling and Selected Reserve, for 12£.

Learn more about scotch whisky in my introductory post on Islay, Scotland’s whisky island!

5.2 Highlanders Bakehouse

In need of carbs after that hike? Stop by the Highlanders Bakehouse to refuel and grab some baked goods for later. You won’t regret it!

From the Balmoral Car Park, Highlanders Bakehouse is across the street on A93, just 500 meters / 0.3 miles to the East.

6. Parting thoughts on my hike to the Scottish Pyramid

This was a really fun hike to do. I love that there are additional things to do along the Balmoral Estate, given that you’d already paid for parking anyway. For me, I visited Balmoral Castle in 2019, and really enjoyed the audio tour. The grounds are gorgeous and a delight. I absolutely loved the gardens!

For more hikes wherever you are, download AllTrails app!

I didn’t get a chance to visit the Royal Lochnagar Distillery. I think I’ll save that for next time! I’ve been in and around the Royal Deeside area a few times, and I seem to keep coming back! Every time I’m here, I stay at the Hilton Grand Vacations Hotel & Spa at Craigendarroch in nearby Ballater. With a pool and sauna, and within walking distance to the village, it’s my go-to place to stay!

Sure, most of the time I visit, I just go to the Prince Albert Cairn because it’s so wonderful. But there’s different hikes looking for different cairns! There’s plenty of things to explore at Balmoral – something for everyone!

For those foodies, when in Ballater:

• be sure to visit the Phoenix Chip Shop. During Queen Elizabeth’s reign, the footman from Balmoral would visit this local chippy for the Queen’s fish and chips. I’ve been a few times – it’s a great chippy!
• have a romantically delicious meal at The Rothesay Rooms inside the Old Royal (railway) Station. Under Head Chef Ross Cochrane, The Rothesay Rooms is included in the Michelin Guide and showcases fresh local produce with seasonal menus. Originally established by King Charles III (when he was Prince of Wales) to support the community after flood and fire tore through Ballater in 2015.
• for brunch, the Bridge House Cafe is my personal fave!

If you’re looking to travel to Balmoral / Aberdeenshire in style via a luxury, overnight train, the Caledonian Sleeper offers the only overnight route between Scotland and London. Save time and arrive fully refreshed for your onward travel!

• Be sure to check out my review for the Caledonian Sleeper! You’ll take the train from London Euston to Aberdeen.
• Or connect to Aberdeen via ScotRail in 2-3 hours from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness!
• From Aberdeen, you’ll take Stagecoach Bluebird Bus 201 from Aberdeen Union Square bus station to Crathie (Balmoral), which takes about 2 hours.

For other ideas for travel in the Highlands:

• Visit the site of the historic Battle of Culloden;
• Enjoy a chocolate tasting at an award winning highland chocolatier;
• Take a road trip on the North Coast 500, where you can visit the Castle of Mey – the Scottish castle purchased by the Queen Mother (as shown in Netflix’s The Crown);
• Eat at an award winning restaurant, Monachyle Mhor;
• Take a Day Trip to Orkney Islands!

OR if royalty is your thing, be sure to visit Holyrood Palace (located in Edinburgh), which is the King’s official residence in Scotland!

Planning to hike up to the Scottish pyramid?
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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I think it is pronounced MON-a-HYLE MORE.

This all took place last summer, when I holidayed in Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park. If you’re picturing gorgeous blue lochs, luscious green hills, beautifully tusselled hilly coos – you are not wrong!

From where I started in Aberfoyle (the Gateway to Loch Lomond & the Trossachs), it was a a 55 minute drive on winding roads through small hamlets, large hills, and alongside several stunning lochs. Towards the end of the trip, it switched to single track roads. It was so remote and it looked so lush, that I pulled over the side of the road to take a moment and enjoy the scenery. There were zero humans around, so no risks. The above photos were from my drive.

Getting there, I used a combination of Google Maps and the GPS in my rental car. Both were wrong and stopped short of the actual destination. However, I did manage to see some roadside signs on the way that kept me hopeful. Plus, as I said, towards the end, it was just a single lane road. I had faith that if I hadn’t gone past it yet, I would reach it in due time. And I did.

Learn from my mistakes and endeavor to plan better than I do – get a tangible Ordnance Survey map of the Trossachs before setting out!

Monachyle Mhor: Restaurant & Hotel

Monachyle Mhor (Gaelic for the “great narrowing of the wetlands”) is a combination boutique hotel and upscale restaurant created by Scottish chef, Tom Lewis. What makes Monachyle Mhor special, besides it obviously being a pink house, is their commitment to locally sourced and farmed foods. Most meat and vegetables are raised and grown on their farm. When venison and pigeon are on the menu, they’re directly from the grounds, too. Seafood comes from a little farther, up in Scrabster in the Northern Highlands. Whatever isn’t used at the restaurant gets used in pies at Lewis’ Mhor Bread bakery in nearby Callander.

The interior design of Monachyle Mhor is modern, yet classic.

1. Amuse Bouche in the Bar

After arriving, the hostess escorted me to the bar as they prepared my table. Just as I was admiring the lush wood panels in the bar, a tray containing three items appeared before me. My amuse bouche.

From left to right,

• a black pudding bonbon,
• aubergine (eggplant) caviar,
• haddock ceviche.

In hindsight, I wish I sought more clarity on the aubergine caviar to understand exactly what that meant. But in the absence of exact details, let’s just say all three were absolutely delicious – especially the ceviche!

2. Bread and a second Amuse Bouche

The wait staff asked if I made reservations. Since they’re not required, I did not.

Expert tip, if you make reservations, you’ll get seated in a gorgeous conservatory with huge windows (you see the lush windows in the pink photo above). But since their conservatory was full, I was seated in this room. All. By. My. Self. (cue Bridget Jones’ sad rendition of a Celine Dion classic)

Watch this video on YouTube.

Just as Celine’s song finished in my head, and Akon’s Lonely, began, out came some bread and my second amuse bouche. The bread selection comprised of a sourdough and some brown bread. As if homemade bread and butter aren’t the best things ever, add some expertly fried asparagus tempura with pea puree!

3. Starter: Monachyle venison

Monachyle venison, with radish from Comrie. Drizzled in a sauce made from Glengoyne 12 years old single malt scotch whisky, topped with haggis crumbs.

How’s that for a starter?

4. Palate cleanser: Celeriac soup

Just a little celeraic soup with pine nut dressing to cleanse my palate and prepare me for my main course.

5. Main: Tamworth pork

For my main dish, a mouth watering, expertly cooked Tamworth pork from Monachyle Mhor. Served on a bed of kimchi and Arran Victory potatoes, and topped with a sprinkling of black sesames.

Absolutely loved the Asian flair!

6. Dessert: Chocolate pavé

After finishing my main, a separate dessert menu appeared, with choices like:

• Buttermilk panna cotta, Scottish strawberry, lychee sorbet
• Chocolate pavé, hazelnut brittle, coffee gelato
• Frozen cheesecake parfait, raspberry gel, garden rhubarb, oat praline
• Spiced apple frangipane, flapjack, clotted ice cream
• A selection of British Isles farm cheese, homemade oatcakes and chutney

Ok, with the photo and header above, you obviously know what I selected. But reading all the choices, could you blame me? Say chocolate and I’m already at attention. Add the word hazelnut and I obviously wouldn’t choose anything else. Top it off with coffee gelato? This is obviously a dessert made in heaven, and especially for me!

7. Petit fours

To pair with my shot of esprseso, some petit fours:

• gingerbread marshmallow,
• peppermint ganache,
• Scottish tablet (i.e. fudge)

Parting Thoughts on Monachyle Mhor: Tasting Menu

At 65£ (approximately $80 USD), the dinner tasting menu at Monachyle Mhor was such a fantastic treat!

Given the remoteness of the Scottish Highlands and the slight weariness of too much pub food, Monachyle Mhor’s delightful tasting menu was the culinary highlight of my trip!

Don’t make the same mistake as me – make reservations so you can dine in that delightful, sunset basked conservatory!

Monachyle Mhor Restaurant Information

Monachyle Mhor | map
Hotel Bookings
Balquhidder
Lochearnhead
Perthshire, Scotland
FK19 8PQ
Phone: +44 0187 738 4622
Call to make reservations – highly recommended, if you want to sit in the gorgeous conservatory

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

For clarification, we were allowed one outdoor exercise per day, and Loch Ard is within walking distance. Totally within the covid-guidelines set forth for Scotland at the time.

1. Who is Rob Roy MacGregor?

Rob Roy MacGregor (1671 – 1743) was a Scottish outlaw, turned folk hero, who fought in the Jacobite risings of 1689 and 1715. Although he is generally considered to be the Robin Hood of Scotland, his story was heavily romanticized by various Scottish writers, including Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe.

Side story: when I told one of my friends about Rob Roy, the outlaw, her actual response was: “oooh, outlaw. That makes it sound so sexy.” So behold – historical images and depictions of sexy Rob.

Between 1711 – 1712, over a dispute about money and cattle, the Duke of Montrose seized MacGregor’s family land and evicted the family. Rob Roy in turn sought revenge through a combination of banditry, theft and “cattle rustling” (the theft of said cattle). Rob Roy’s participation in the 1715 Jacobite rising added the charge of treason on top of his banditry. It is during this time, where he was on the run and hid out in a variety of places in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs area.

2. The Hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave

During the time of covid-19, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs are exactly where I am hiding. So in a way, old Rob and I have that in common. But I am staying in a delightful cottage, whereas he went into hiding in a series of caves. The more famous Rob Roy Cave is in Inversnaid, on the banks of Loch Lomond. Nowadays (according to google research), there is both a sign post there and a marker on the cave itself. If I were an outlaw, I don’t know that I would appreciate such blatant markers. But, this is not the cave in which we hunted for.

Hidden along the banks of Loch Ard is another alleged Rob Roy’s Cave. Of course, if one were an outlaw, one would presume that there would be several hiding places. And since this cave has no signposts or markers, this was the one we chose for our weekend adventure. Well, also because this is the one within walking distance.

3. So, did we find the elusive cave?

Our hike mostly followed the red dots in the big map. Although, we did do a slight detour to the remains of Duke Murdoch’s Castle. Spoiler alert, the remains of the castle are basically just rocks. No need to detour like we did.

Closer look of Rob Roy’s Cave on a map. The little black dot right underneath the “v” in Cave is basically where we were (as compared to the coordinates on the Google Map below). North is up on this one.

So, did we find the cave?

I’ll let you decide for yourself from the photos.

Overall, it was very difficult to find… to the point where we honestly weren’t sure. I mean, if you were a rebel outlaw, you wouldn’t want to stay in a place so obvious. But then again, inside all of those nooks and crannies (i.e. potential caves), none of them looked big enough where you could do more than sit. Which begs the following questions:

• Did Rob Roy sleep sitting up?
• Did he not need to stretch his legs?
• Or when he was in hiding, was he literally in a crouching position the whole time (so that he was at the ready to sprint into action at a moment’s notice)?

If the above photos were indeed his cave, he would have had a lovely view looking out to the banks of Loch Ard.

4. Conclusion to this great caper

So in the end, whether we found the actual location of one of Rob Roy’s Cave will be up to the discretion of the reader. I am personally not convinced. My primary reasoning being: if I were hiding out in a cave, I would want to be able to lay down and sleep in said cave. My friend, on the other hand, seems to think that the rocks may have shifted over time. Perhaps at one point, a rebel outlaw may have been able to sleep there.

Also, as previously noted, his more famous cave is located on the banks of Loch Lomond and is well marked with sign posts. But keeping in line with my blog’s theme of writing about the more obscure places and things, let’s leave things on a positive note and say that maybe we found his obscure cave, and lived to tell the tale.

If you’re in the neighborhood, the Loch Ard trail is a wonderful path and great for a weekend hike. To be honest, it’s one of my favourite walks in Aberfoyle. It’s not a challenging hike, but has great views of the loch and is set in the beautiful Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

Download the AllTrails app

Get ready for your Rob Roy Adventure

• If you’re planning to stay in Aberfoyle as a base for your Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park adventures, here are some local options, all within a short walk from Loch Ard:
  • Rob Roy Hotel – stay on theme of this Rob Roy Adventure at the Rob Roy Hotel – 1 mile outside of Aberfoyle – average rates 95 GBP per night;
  • The Forth Inn – a very dog friendly local pub, with rooms – average rates 90 GBP per night;
  • or the Creag Mhor Self Catering Apartment – 2 bedrooms, great for families – approximately 120 GBP per night.
• Are you traveling from London for your Rob Roy cave (or Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park) adventure? Take the Caledonian Sleeper, the luxury overnight train to Scotland departing from London Euston station and arrive at dawn in Stirling. Connect to Aberfoyle via the X10A bus, which takes only 40 minutes from Stirling.
• When I’m walking or hiking, my go-to is either the AllTrails app on my phone, or an Ordnance Survey map. As someone who missed a career as a cartographer, I do love a physical map!
• Proper walking / hiking shoes essential for Scotland’s outdoor adventures.
  • This walk is not strenuous and, if the ground is dry is fine for AllBirds Wool Runner Mizzles or similar casual trainers/shoes.
  • Otherwise, Merrell’s Waterproof Hiking Boots (UK) / (US) are my absolute go-to for Scotland’s plentiful trails and outdoor hikes. Being prepared for the weather and terrain is a must!

Want to hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave too? Pin it for later!

For my next post, a promised foodie and cocktail pairing, inspired by this rebel outlaw!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

First of all, so sorry for the lack of posting this summer.  It had turned out to be so much busier than I anticipated.  From research and school work to beginning contract work on the side, it’s been challenging to stay on top of posting.  I have a plan in my head to catch up on posts, but for now, I’ll just give you some monthly highlights (with photos), and I’ll fill in the details in more posts on a regular basis now.

But before the monthly highlights, I just returned from the Cook Islands the other day, for a quick 6-day island getaway. My story of how the Cook Islands came to be seems to be an amusing one.  Last year on Black Friday (after-Thanksgiving Day sale), Air New Zealand had a fare sale to Auckland, NZ, for under $400.  Sales were posted to Twitter around 6 am, Eastern time.  Being in California for Thanksgiving, by the time I woke up in Pacific time, they were sold out.  There were Twitter rumors that Air NZ would have another sale for Cyber Saturday the following day.  So I turned on my notifications and set a light alarm on my phone for 4 am Pacific time (7 am Eastern time).

$490 RT LAX to RAR?  For the week of my 36^th birthday?  (9 months in the future, at this point)  Sure, why not!  The Cook Islands sound like a great idea.  And it totally was!  More on CI soon, but it was wonderful!  It’s a Polynesian paradise, without the crowds and big resorts.  I will definitely be going back in the near future!

So now, that recap of my travels since April 2018!

April

• Oaxaca, Mexico with a friend!
• Eating all the corn-based tortilla products one can find!
• Day trips visiting Hierve el Agua, the Tule Tree, Mitla and Monte Alban
• Watching a donkey go round and round in circles, grinding agave for mezcal, in a roadside, artisanal mezcal distillery

• Big Island, Hawaii!
• Hives on the flight…
• Photographing the Kilauea volcano and Milky Way in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
• Epic hike on lava fields
• Above the clouds, on the world’s tallest mountain, Mauna Kea.

May

• Back to school! In Vienna
• Visit to lovely but crowded UNESCO village, Hallstatt, in Austria
• Relaxing weekend in Budapest, with a friend that I met in Nepal!
• Quick jaunt to Bangkok for some Thai massages and relaxation!

June

• Unexpected and amazing time in Slovenia!
• Cloudy, sunrise hike over Lake Bled
• Hiking at and amazing scenery in Lake Bohinj and Triglav National Park with one half of travel bloggers, Rambles on the Go
• Eating dumplings, walking around Ljubljana and recording podcasts with the Postcard Academy!
• And then, almost the whole month in Croatia!
• Starting in Zagreb, with awful allergies, lots of sneezing, and seeing the remains of failed relationships.
• Full day hike with lakes and waterfalls in Plitvice Lakes National Park, with new Canadian friends!
• Eat lots of amazing pork afterwards at Pri Zvonou, a Zagreb institution within walking distance of my Airbnb
• On to Pula, for sunsets, Roman architecture, and boats
• But wait! I was stung by a sea urchin and had to dig out all the spines from my foot by myself (cue sound: womp womp)
• Chasing sunsets in Zadar
• Hike up to Manita Pec cave in Paklencia National Park
• Lots of balcony time and strolls along the beach in Okrug Gronji

July

• Visiting with Rembrandt in the Rjiksmuseum and friends in Amsterdam
• Crashing a friend and fellow bridesmaid’s family vacation in Milan!
• Taking breaks between eating gelato, pizza, burrata and prosciutto to see Italian Renaissance classics at Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
• Hiking above Lake Como, hearing tales of Italian-Swiss border smugglers and getting stung by way too many mosquitos
• Crashing the tail end of a different friend’s (and also fellow bridesmaid in the same wedding actually…) 3 week European vacation, in the amazingly beautiful and wonderful alpine town of Innsbruck, Austria!
• Hiked an incredibly difficult mountain in the Zillertal Alps… (story coming soon)
• Relaxation at Aqua Dome, sparkly things at Swarovski Kristallwelten, and frequent trips to Himal Nepali restaurant, in Innsbruck
• James Bond, mountains, and Milky Way in Soelden, Austria
• Watching Carmen, performed over Lake Constance as part of the Bregenz Festival, in Bregenz, Austria! Bucket list (CHECK)
• And then, back to school in Vienna!

August

• Stumbling upon the Pride on the Canal parade in Amsterdam!
• And finally, back to America for family time and R&R!
• Watched the Perseid meteor shower and shot the Milky Way at Anza Borrego Desert State Park, an international dark sky park
• Chased a particularly foul bucket list item to disappointment, at the Huntington Library, in San Marino, California.
• Celebrated being another year older and feeling particularly thankful for the experiences I have in life
• Crossed the Pacific to the Cook Islands, where I found the perfect paradise, without overwhelming tourists and large resorts.
• Took a day trip to Aitutaki where they have the bluest, clearest waters I have ever seen in my life!
• Sat in the cockpit on the way back from Aitutaki because the owner of my villa in Rarotonga happened to be the co-pilot on the flight!
• Made friends with a group of people that kept running to each other on the island, and happened to be all on the same flight back to LAX.

And now, today, September 5th, I am in Mexico City for a few days before I head back to California!  My life will be a bit more structured starting next week, so stay tuned for (more regular) posts and thanks for your patience!  Hope everyone had a great summer!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

There are many tours that will take you there or renting a car is certainly an option.  But going from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus for a day trip is completely doable, quite easy to do, and incredibly cost effective! So, if you’re up for an adventure, read on! I’ll give step-by-step instructions on how to go from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus.

1. Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Buying bus tickets from Zagreb to Plitvice is easy enough.  A roundtrip ticket on Arriva, was 112 kuna | < $18 USD  | 15 EUR.  My 5:45 am departure (which arrived shortly after 8 am) meant that I’d have to leave my Airbnb around 5 am, in order to arrive early enough to figure things out…just in case.  My ticket was emailed to me as a PDF and included the platform number (#405), and sure enough, there it was.  Large luggage will cost you 10 kuna to put underneath the bus. My large 50 L backpack was fine as a “carry on.”  And then we were off! From Zagreb to Plitvice by bus!

There are 2-3 ten minute stops along the way, but I never left the bus fearing a) losing my seat, and b) the bus leaving without me.

Along the way, you drive through small villages and if you look closely, you can see sprays of bullet holes covering the village houses.  Rising ethnic tensions between Croatians and Serbs sparked with the death of a Croatian army commander.  The result was the Croatian War for Independence, which began in Plitvice, late March 1991.  Both sides had only 1 death each, during the “Plitvice Incident” or the “Plitvice Bloody Easter”, with over 20 wounded and 400 tourists evacuated.

2. Arriving at Plitvice Lakes

After a little over two sleepy hours on the bus, we finally made it from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes. So excited!

Plitvice Lakes has been a national park since after WWII, and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979.  After the Croatian War for Independence, the parks were swept for mines and all of the remaining mines were removed.  Over 1 million people visit the park annually.

When I went to Plitvice in June, the cost of admission for adults was 150 kuna | < $24 USD | 20 EUR.  In July and August (the country’s high season), that jumps to 250 kuna | $40 USD | 34 EUR if you enter before 16:00.

2.1 Entrances to Plitvice

There are two entrances to Plitvice, smartly named Entrance 1 and Entrance 2.  The bus driver will call out the entrances to the passengers.  Depending on what you want to see in the park, different entrances lead to different attractions. The side of the road where you exit the bus is the same side of the road as the entrance to the NP. 

And remember, that means at the end of the day, when you’re waiting to catch the bus back to Zagreb, the bus stop is on the opposite of the road.

2.2 Hiking Plitvice Lakes – Choose your walking program!

You can go hiking in Plitvice Lakes either for a leisurely walk, or an immense (almost) 20 km hike! The national park has 8 different “lake tour programmes”, with the “K” programme being the longest at 18.3 km, with an estimated completion time of 6-8 hours.  I was able to finish in about 5 hours, with breaks in between.

EXPERT TIP: MAKE SANDWICHES AND BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER.  
There are long stretches with no food or water.

3. The Long Hike – “K programme”

It’s always strange going on a long hike on your own.  Granted, there were other people around, because most of the various lake programmes criss-cross each other and overlap.  But I guess not many people wanted an ambitious “Hiking Plitvice Lakes Day.” There were very few people on the “full K programme.” Most of the trail was on wooden planks along or over the water, and when the K goes off into the green wooded area, there are easy to follow paths.

From P3 (around the middle of the map), I had to take off my shoes and cross over a small section in the water.

And from there towards where it continues well into the green, I met one person and one dog on the K trail.  (The dog did not belong to the person). 

4. Not alone at Plitvice anymore!

At some point, hours later, I met C and K, who were two travelers from Canada and they graciously agreed to let me walk with them.  They were also doing the K programme, but started at Entrance 2. Hiking Plitvice Lakes alone – mmm, ok on the fun level. Hiking Plitvice Lakes with fun people – even better!

5. Thoughts on Hiking Plitvice Lakes

The hike ended with a short 5 minute ferry across the water (gushing towards the finish line!) Ok, maybe not such an exciting finish. But, I will say hiking Plitvice Lakes was an amazing way to see so many of the waterfalls. Plus, being off the beaten path was a great way to avoid the mass of tourists. 

Small warning, though… every time you are about to come across a waterfall, the crowds increase and the pace slows, as everyone tries to pose for a picture.  It can get mildly overwhelming.

I finished the hike around 13:30, and was able to catch an earlier bus back to Zagreb.  In the morning, the bus from Zagreb to Plitvice dropped me off next to the entrance. The bus going back is on the opposite side of the road.

Luckily, I had some time to buy an ice cream before the bus arrived. The bus left around 14:45, and I was able to make it back in Zagreb for a shower and amazing dinner.

So in the end, if you love to walk, enjoy waterfalls and crystal clear waters, PLITVICE IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.  Especially if you’re alread in Zagreb, the bus to Plitvice is easy and a completely manageable day trip!

Add it to the bucket list!

6. Resources on going from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Bus tickets and schedules
Sample Zagreb to Plitvice bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 5:45 am – 8:08 am
• 6:30 am – 8:40 am
• 7:30 am – 9:45 am
• 8:30 am – 11:07 am
• 9:15 am – 11:30 am

Sample Plitvice back to Zagreb bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 2:45 pm – 5:05 pm
• 3:45 pm – 5:55 pm
• 5:18 pm – 7:50 pm

Information on Hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park and entrance fees:

• Lake walking programme description and maps
• Price list

REMEMBER BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER

Recap on my Zagreb to Plitvice Day

5:45 am Bus leaves from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
8:10 am: Arrival at Plitvice, Entrance 1
<< walk walk walk walk walk walk walk >>
1:30 pm: Make it back to Entrance 1
2:45 pm: Bus to Zagreb
3 pm: Rain, and feeling thankful to be on a bus and on the way home.  The man I encountered on the K trail, with the dog that was not his, went back to Zagreb on the same bus.
5:15 pm: Arrive in Zagreb
6:30 pm: Finish shower and eat amazing food at Pri Zvoncu
8:30 pm: Sleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. How to get to Lake Bohinj from Bled

The buses leave from the Bled bus station at 20 minutes past the hour.  We took the 9:20 bus, on another charter bus, over to the lake which took about 45 min.  The price of the bus depends on where you get dropped off. Our stop was Ukanc (pronounced, I think, like oo-CONCH), which cost us 4,10 EUR | $4.75 USD. Normally during high season, July and August, the bus runs once an hour and drops you off near most of the main sights.  It being not high season, meant that there was more walking involved.  Way more walking. 

There is an extremely complicated, yet accurate bus schedule here, from Bled to Bohinj.  There legend is extremely detailed, so make sure you are looking at the right column, for the right season, and the right day of the week.

2. Ukanc and uphill to Savica Waterfall

We stopped off at Ukanc, which was the closest stop to the Savica Waterfall, in low season.  And by closest stop, it was still a 50-minute uphill trek, along the side of the only road going up there.  If you’re lucky enough to go in high season and take the bus to the closer stop, obviously it would not take this long.  So off we went. 

I’m so thankful that J was a good sport and trekked everywhere, without any real complaining.  I say real complaining, because part of the amusement during our walk was semi-complaining. Semi-complaining that people who passed us by in their cars never offered to give two random women a ride. Even considering we were obviously going in the same direction, to the same place.  But never mind.

After about an hour (considering breaks to catch our breath and stops for photos), we finally arrived at a parking lot, two restaurants, and a sign that said the waterfall was another 20-minute walk.  More uphill, but this time, with stairs. 

3. Savica Waterfalls

Along the way, there is a little hut to pay the entrance fee (shown below), which was 3 EUR for adults.  All things considering, not a bad price, and definitely worth it.

When we finally reached the falls, there was only 5-10 people up there.  I guess since it was still the low season, it was to be expected.  Near the top, there are also viewpoints out across Lake Bohinj, where you can obviously see the valley formed by ancient glaciers.

Quick facts about the Savica Waterfall (from its brochure that I picked up):

• Height above sea level, at base: 894 m | 2,934 ft
• Two-part waterfall in the form of the letter A
• Height of the large waterfall: 78 m | 256 ft
• Height of the small waterfall: 25 m | 82 ft

4. Lunch stop at Koča Pri Savici

After the falls, we stopped by one of the nearby restaurants for some lunch.  Traditional Slovenian sausage and fries, served with the biggest ketchup and mustard containers known to mankind.

The sausages were delicious and the server was so friendly and talkative.

He asked if we had walked up here via the road or the back path. We came by the road. He encouraged us to take the back path on our way back down, which was shorter.  In reality, it may have been shorter, by mere minutes, but we took more photo breaks and of course, this was downhill. J was smart enough to ask the question, “Will we get lost?”  He laughed a little and said

“Not a chance.  Keep following the sound of the river.” 

And it’s true, we definitely did not get lost. But the sound of the river dissipated after time.  But there was really only one way to go, and after another hour, we had arrived back near Ukanc and the banks of the lake.

4.1 Pause and marvel at Lake Bohinj

5. The long meander to Mostnica Gorge

The next destination was the Mostnica Gorge.  Again, we could have taken the bus. However, it only runs once an hour. So we decided to walk, since it would take about an hour get there. 

From the very west bank of Lake Bohinj (where Ukanc is), to the very east bank of the lake, we walked.  We made some stops along the lake, at a beach and then a pier where we sat for a few moments to rest and enjoy the scenery.  We finally arrived at Stara Fuzina, a small village, which is more or less the gateway to the Mostnica Gorge.

5.1 Stara Fuzina

5.2 Onward to Mostnica Gorge

There were some confusing signs at times. If you followed them, I’m not sure where you would have ended up.  Very likely, you would have ended up at the gorge.  However, we decided to follow Google Maps, which had not led me astray thus far.  We were not entirely sure what we were looking fo. The word gorge really only tells me it’s a very big hole in the ground.  We finally arrived at a booth. The entrance fee was 3 EUR, but the booth was unmanned.  So free entrance it was!  At the booth, there was a fork in the road.

After much indecision, we decided to fork right. There were some other travelers following us and they forked left.  Let me tell you, forking right was the right decision.  Because of this, we accessed large rocks and took some amazing photographs, while they painstakingly looked for a way to cross to our side.  They did not do in the end. I would not have recommended anyway, for safety reasons.  Views below, when you fork right.

We kept walking, trying to figure out where this gorge was. When we arrived according to Google Maps, there was nothing.  We walked on another 20 minutes, but then we realized that the path we were on was no longer marked by a yellow circle and was now a red square.  At that point, we decided enough was enough, and we turned around.  In the end, we realized that the gorge was right inside of the unmanned booth, on the bridge when we forked right.  Suffice it to say, the scenery along the way was absolutely gorgeous and well worth the additional trek.

6. The bus back to Bled

The bus that goes back to Bled leaves at the :47 after every hour, except for at 5:47 pm. Obviously, this is right around the time when we arrived at the bus stop.  I think most people were surprised that there was no 5:47 bus. But not me, thanks to the trusty yet confusing bus schedule.  After some relaxing and a well deserved Magnum ice cream, we hitched the 6:47 pm bus (for 3,40 EUR | $4 USD) and was back in Bled by 7:30 pm. 

According to my Apple Watch, I walked 33,000 steps that day… a personal best.  That amounted to about 16 miles or 25 km.  Exhausting, doable, and extremely worth it.  This beautiful day trip to Lake Bohinj is a must for those wanting to reconnect with nature and those who love exploring foreign national parks like I do!

Resources for Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

If you’d like to visit Lake Bohinj from Lake Bled, check out the bus schedule

Other things to see, in the Bohinj region, which we didn’t have time for:

• Cable car up to Vogel
• Hike up to Pec (about 45 min)

Approximate Schedule for the Lake Bohinj Day

• 8:20 am: Bus from Bled to Ukanc
• 10:10 am: Arrive at Ukanc bus stop, begin walking
• 11:30 am: Savica Waterfall
• << walking >>
• 1 pm: Lunch at Koča Pri Savici
• <<more walking>>
• 4:30 pm: near Mostnica Gorge
• 6:47 pm: bus back to Bled
• 7:30 pm: arrive back to Bled
• 8 pm: I’m asleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/