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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Now, I don’t want to get too political in this post, but I do want to share my experiences and how it moved me.  Everyone is probably minimally familiar with the issues surrounding Israel and Palestine.  It’s complicated. Something that every U.S. president would try to tackle. Instead of trying to explain it, I found this link while researching. It offers good information on the history and what the different cities mean to the different states.

Israel & Palestine: an unclear story

Suffice it to say, there is a lot that connects the peoples on both side. Conversely, there is a lot that separates them as well.  Media largely focuses their stories on Israel by highlighting atrocities carried out by Palestinians.  However, we can all agree that media bias is a real thing. What is broadcast may not necessarily be the truth.

Also, I believe that some people cannot differentiate Israel as a sovereign state and people of the Jewish faith. Oftentimes, criticizing Israel politically brings about allegations of antisemitism.  Let’s be completely clear here and now.  I don’t care about people’s religious affiliations.  But I do care that both sides are fighting a war, which ultimately involve innocent civilians on both sides. 

Unfortunately, Israel has been expanding their reach into the Palestinian territories through the establishment of settlements and the building of walls. 

This has not gone unnoticed by international organizations:

Dec 2016: Israel’s Settlements Have No Legal Validity, Constitute Flagrant Violation of International Law, [UN] Security Council Reaffirms

July 2014: Ban [Ki-Moon] says Israel’s construction of West Bank wall violates international law, fuels Mid-East tensions

July 2004: International Court of Justice finds Israeli barrier in Palestinian territory is illegal

The topic of Israel & Palestine is a heated one indeed. Either covertly or blatantly, many people voice their opinion on it.  I remember reminding my tour guide in Jerusalem that I would be leaving the tour in Bethlehem (Palestine) and staying there. He responded, “But why would you do that?”

Or when I posted the below photo on Instagram, showing bullet holes in the door to an elementary school, in a Palestinian refugee camp.  It was merely days after the Parkland shooting in the US, and I was feeling very emotional about school shootings.

This is the first comment that I received on the photo: “Only if the Palestinians make sure not to put their children as human targets in front of them which [they’re] known to do.”

STOP RIGHT NOW.

An American woman that regularly corresponds with me on Instagram made this comment. Immediately after she commented, I deleted it and disabled commenting on the photo. It really upset me.  Keeping an open mind is so important.  This is not about the politics. THIS IS ABOUT THE INNOCENT PEOPLE.  INNOCENT CHILDREN.  You also cannot make a sweeping comment like that as if all people on one side of a war are guilty.

Below is the visual story of my experience in and around Bethlehem. I’m grateful for the experience. I thank Banksy for opening a hotel there and bringing much needed light to this situation.

{For photos of what the checkpoint at the border is like, see the end of my post on Jerusalem, here}

The Occupied Territory of the West Bank, i.e. Palestinian Territory

I first became interested in visiting the West Bank when Banksy opened a real, but tongue in cheek hotel called the Walled-Off Hotel (a pun on the Waldorf Hotel).  Famous for its proximity to the separation wall, the Walled-Off Hotel offers views of the wall that divides Jerusalem (Israel) with Bethlehem (West Bank, Palestine). The separation wall and hotel are neighbors. While I did enjoy my stay at Banky’s hotel, this post focuses on my trip to a nearby refugee camp and my walk along the separation wall itself.

To introduce the wall, here is a 9 minute YouTube video, of me walking along the wall.  The wall itself is covered in graffiti and includes guard towers every so often.  Built by Israel for the security and safety of their citizens, it is physically impossible to scale the wall.

Watch this video on YouTube.

I walked along the path below, in yellow. Strangely enough, Google Maps’ satellite version does not show the presence of a wall there.  The map’s street view, however, does.

Walking Tour of the Refugee Camp

The hotel arranges tours of a refugee camp along with a history of the Israeli and Palestinian conflict.  The main takeaways are:

• While the actual border of Palestinian lands are 400 km, Israel built 700 km worth of walls.  To me, that’s not border protection.
• The symbol of the refugee camp is a key. When Israeli forces raided these villages, the Palestinians did not pack any of their belongings with them and only brought the key to their home.  Reason being, they honestly thought they would return home after a few days.  Generations later, these people are still refugees and were not able to return to their home, which is now on land occupied by the Israelis.

I’m not going to say much more in this post, save for a few explanations.  I’ll let the photos speak for itself.

Beyond the Wall

The photo above shows a Muslim cemetery, along the Palestinian side of the wall.  Israeli Defense Forces man the guard tower in the background. They regularly throw trash and bottles of piss directly into the cemetery.  How do I know?  All of the packaging of the trash, is in Hebrew, not Arabic.

This is the wall inside the refugee camp.  Almost on a daily basis, the locals will set fire to some trash beneath the guard tower to smoke out the IDF guards.  In return, the Israelis fire gunfire upon them.  About 100 feet from where I took this photo, is the school from the Instagram post earlier.

Conclusions

This is only a glimpse into what I saw around the wall and in the refugee camps.  My guide asked us to tell their story to people after we left.

I know that a lot of travel blogging and content creation is centered around the beautiful, the “instagram-worthy”…  But is that what travel blogging is meant for?  For me, I am trying to go beyond the selfies and the carefully posed photos.  I am trying to inspire people not only to see but to think.  And Palestine definitely taught me to see beyond the news and the misconceptions and to catch a glimpse of the truth.

Thank you, Banksy, for bringing me to Palestine and for opening my eyes to this.  For some parting words…

But please don’t forget to find the human in your enemy.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Titanic
2. Game of Thrones.

I can confidently say that Titanic Belfast is arguably the BEST MUSEUM I’VE EVER BEEN TO, and therefore the best thing to do in Belfast!  But no need to trust me.  Trust the “World’s Best Tourist Attraction Award” it won at the World Travel Awards (aka Tourism Oscars).

Now, in the time of COVID, you need to book your tickets in advance. I booked a student ticket for “The Titanic Experience”, at 15.50 GBP ($22 USD), which included the Titanic exhibits (self guided), as well as entry to the SS Nomadic – the White Star Line’s last remaining Vessel, and original tender boat to the RMS Titanic. 

But we’ll get to the Titanic in a bit. First thing’s first. Food.

Disclaimer: this post contains only iPhone photos, out of laziness and exhaustion from carrying my camera gear.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Pre-Museum Breakfast in Belfast

My day started near the Botanic train station.  Nearby is Maggie Mays Belfast Cafe, which its website boasts as the “best home cooking in Belfast”.  Beware, it’s cash only.  I didn’t really know what Northern Irish breakfast was like, but after lots of smoked salmon and eggs in Scotland, I was ready for a change.

As an American, cheesy beans on toast is not a thing. In fact, beans are rarely a breakfast item. But when in Belfast, do as the Northern Irish do.

In case you were wondering, this breakfast is definitely a knife and fork activity.  Pretty delicious and extremely filling, it keep me full for several hours.  And then I set off on a long walk, about 2.5 miles (50 minutes), from the Botanic area to Titanic Belfast.

2. En route to the Titanic Belfast

Long meandering is very much my style, mainly because you get to see lots of the city by walking.  Taking the train is also an option – its an easy route from Botanic to the Titanic Quarter station.  But the more I walk, the more I am able to eat by the time the next meal rolls around. Titanic Belfast is located across the River Lagan from the rest of the city.

Along the way, you’re able to pass City Hall, many charming Victorian buildings, the Albert Clock (commemorating Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband), and the Spirit of Belfast.

The Albert Clock (lower left) was built on marshy, reclaimed land near the river, and as a result has begun to lean.  Nearby, is the Spirit of Belfast sculpture (lower right), which like all sculptures in a capital city, has some kind of controversy surrounding it.  The Spirit was built after a city-wide competition for a sculpture, and won a majority of votes.  However, it didn’t stop someone from adding a banner with the bold word “FAIL” to the front of it in 2012.

2.1 The Salmon of Knowledge

When you come out of the city area, and reach the riverbanks of the Lagan, you are greeted by the Big Fish, or the Salmon of Knowledge.  Yes, there is a Salmon of Knowledge in Belfast. I mean, if I didn’t already tell you that I thought Titanic Museum was the best thing to do in Belfast, I’m sure visiting the salmon of knowledge would have been your guess.

The Salmon was built to commemorate the return of fish to the River Lagan in 1999.  Development of the river areas, reclaiming land, and changes to the river that almost entirely changed the landscape of Belfast … all of this aided in the loss of marine life to the river.  But thankfully now, the fishies are back again.

And then onward, to the Belfast Harbour and the SS Nomadic.  All along the river, there are signs with historical facts about Belfast and its shipbuilding industry.

3. The Titanic Belfast

When I arrived to the museum, my friend texted me, asking about my plans for the day. I was about to visit the Titanic museum, I said.  To which she replied, “Why is there a Titanic Museum in Belfast?”  Great question.  The Titanic was built in Belfast!  In their dry docks, with their laborers.

The museum was built on the original site of the shipyard where Titanic was built.  It is a large, squarish building, with at least 6 floors of exhibitions. 

At first, this made me a little nervous, because big museums can be… boring, if not curated properly.  But I can say, without a doubt, the museum was fantastic!  Very interactive, a lot of videos and audio files to listen to.  The exhibits expertly used technology and computer animation to give facts and offer perspective into size or volume. 

It even started out with a history of Belfast section, which I very much appreciated, introducing the various industries that gave rise to Belfast’s industrialization… for example, linens, whiskey, and finally, shipbuilding. Back in the day, Belfast was the number one producer of linens made from flax – really cool, right?

Exhibits at Titanic Belfast:

• Boomtown Belfast
• The Shipyard – which includes an amusement park-like ride through a recreation of a shipyard and moves through a scale replica of Titanic’s rudder (it’s enormous!  but poorly lit, so no good photos or videos)
• The Launch – launch into Belfast Lough – May 31, 1911
• The Fit-Out, including a sample of each class of cabin, and a 360 degree computer generated tour through Titanic’s levels (shown in the bottom right photo of Prince Harry and Ms. Meghan Markle’s visit below)
• The Maiden Voyage – the journey from Southampton to Cherbourg, then Cobh, and then finally, across the Atlantic
• The Sinking – April 14/15, 1912
• The Aftermath
• Myths & Legends (including media portrayal)
• and finally, Titanic Beneath – a video and exhibit floor about the wreckage and rediscovery of Titanic

I probably spent about 2 hours in the museum, and about half an hour in the SS Nomadic tender. Admission to the SS Nomadic tender came with my Titanic ticket. 

The Nomadic is a tender boat, used to ferry passengers to the Titanic and its sister ship, the Olympic.  It was built in the spillways next to the Olympic and Titanic in the Harland and Wolff shipyards. 

No matter what, the Nomadic is not as exciting especially when you come there directly following the world’s greatest museum.  But it was an interesting small vessel and worth the visit since you’re in the neighborhood.  Charlie Chaplin, from the photo above, was one of the famous people that had used the Nomadic back in the day.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

4. Lunch at Yardbird Belfast

Afterwards, I backtracked my original path, walked about 20 minutes towards the Albert Clock, in search of my lunch spot, Yardbird.  Yardbird specializes in free roaming, roast chicken.  Marinated for 24 hours and roasted on a spit.  Lunch is served from 12-5 pm, so there’s plenty of time to take advantage of their 5 GBP lunch specials (SO LEGIT).

Naturally, I ordered a lunch special.

The meat from the chicken was literally falling off the bones!!  After I finished… I was … still hungry.  (HEY!  I walked A LOT!)  And the table near me had an order of corn on the cob, so instead of ordering just a corn, of course, I ordered a second lunch special.

Although Yardbird isn’t the best thing to do in Belfast, like the Titanic Museum, it sure could be! I don’t have to explain how delicious it is – from my second helping, it’s pretty obvious.

5. Wrapping up the day

Full bellied and immediately satisfied, I left Yardbird to make my way home.  Along the way, I passed by Pottinger’s Entry.  There are several other entryways along the side off of the High Street in Belfast, but this is the most obvious with the big sign.  Curious, I peaked in, which revealed an alleyway and and a pub tucked behind it.

6. Parting Thoughts on my day in Belfast

Sometimes large museums can be daunting. You may struggle to keep your attention. But not Titanic Belfast! All of the exhibits were well-thought-out and very interesting. Even now, a few years later, I can still remember specific details about the exhibits. Belfast’s history is rich and diverse. You’ll learn so much by visiting Titanic Belfast.

If you’re willing to spend the time to learn, then Titanic Belfast is definitely the best thing to do in Belfast. Absolutely the most interesting museum I’ve ever been to!

Be sure you eat a hearty breakfast before. Nothing is worse than losing energy in a big museum! Aaaaand, maybe follow it up with an amazing roast chicken lunch or two!

7. Titanic Belfast Visitor Information

1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road,
Belfast BT3 9EP
Phone: +44 28 9076 6386
Website
Hours of operation: Check the website for up to date opening information.

2021 ticket prices

• Adult: 19 GBP ($26 USD)
• Child (5 – 16): 8.50 GBP ($12 USD)
• Child, under 5: FREE
• Family pack (2 adults, 2 children): 46.50 GBP ($65 USD)
• Essential carer: FREE
• Student (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)
• Senior (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)

8. Half Day Itinerary Recap

• 9 AM: Cheesy beans on toast at Maggie May’s | map
  • walk past City Hall, Spirit of Belfast, Albert Clock, Salmon of Knowledge
• 10:30 AM: greatest museum experience at Titanic Belfast | map
• 1:45 PM: double lunch specials at Yardbird | map
• Explore Pottinger’s Entry, along with other Entry’s
• 3 PM: Fin

Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Traffic lights & Icelandic economy

So, as promised, the story of the heart-shaped traffic lights in Akureyri.

The economic crisis of 2008 in Iceland hit the country hard and many people had lost almost everything they had.  (I remember when it happened, I was watching the news in my $6 guesthouse in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.)  Iceland’s economy was devastated and a lot of the people lost all hope of surviving this ordeal. 

One artist in Akureyri decided to cut some cardboard and make one red light in the town into a heart, to give hope to the townspeople.  To remind them to smile through the bad times, and that things would work itself out eventually.  The mayor of Akureyri liked the idea so much, every red light in town was then transformed into a heart.  And it stuck.  The way Disa, the host of my horsebackriding tour, explained it, the heart reminds people to smile with their heart, and that good things always come from bad things

Following the economic crisis, Iceland invested heavily in their tourism industry, which I would say greatly paid off.  So tourism is that good thing that came from the economic crisis.

2. A stroll around Akureyri

Anyway, back to Akureyri.  It’s a lovely little. town, with street art that fills the walls of buildings and alleyways.  (Originally this started as all graffiti does, illegally…but Akureyri decided to embrace this.)  Now, there is several prominent art that is featured by local artists, which rotate every few months.

Visit Akureyri for its Street Art

There is also an art museum in Akureyri, but that last day when I planned to go, I decided to bolt instead, because the temperatures dropped dramatically… (and it’s tough to force yourself to be outside for the full duration of the day, after you’ve checked out of your hotel/guesthouse… so that was skipped…)

You all have heard me gushing about this town, so here are some photos to show you just how great it is.

Also, there is a main church in town, Akureyrarkirkja, but shame on me, I never took a good photo of it. I was just so obsessed with the rest of the town, I guess.

3. Visit Akureyri for its Food

Besides the restaurants I tried on the food tour, the others I tried were really good as well.

Akureyri Fish & Chips

Cafe Berlin 

Kristjans Bakari

Parting Thoughts on Akureyri

So I realize with my several posts on this lovely town that I’ve now put it on the map. Try not to all rush there at once but if you do, you’re guaranteed to have a swell time. Visit Akureyri and you won’t regret it! If you’re into small towns anyway. And with that, I bid you good night from Vienna!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/