After having the most amazingly, relaxing day, my friend and I had an easy going Sunday with a walk in and around Budapest. We started our walk by the Hungarian Parliament, en route to our breakfast destination, Piknik. 

1. Breakfast at Piknik

Piknik is a small cafe, with a nice outdoor seating area, and serves mostly baguettes, tarts, and fruit smoothies.  I had a delicious prosciutto baguette, with cucumbers.  The cucumbers were a welcome addition.

2. Walk along the Danube River

After breakfast, we strolled along the Danube River, in search of a memorial I missed the last time I visited.  The Shoes on the Danube Bank.  Located almost in front of the Hungarian Parliament, this memorial, conceived by director Can Togay and sculpted by Gyula Pauer, is made up of 60 iron shoes of the WWII era.

As the plaque states, this is a memorial to the victims of the Arrow Cross Militiamen.  The memorial pays tribute to the over 3,500 people (of them, around 800 were Jewish), shot with arrows on the banks of the Danube.  They were instructed to remove their shoes and their bodies were washed away by the river after being shot.

Watch this video on YouTube.

To me, traveling is not just about seeing the beautiful and Instagram-worthy.  There is much to be learned about the history of a place, and recognizing that we can learn from the mistakes of the past…

3. St. Stephen’s Basilica

From there, it was a short walk to St. Stephen’s Basilica, named for King Stephen, first King of Hungary.  You can also go inside for a guided tour and, if you’d like, go up to the top for views across the city (for a fee).  We didn’t go in, since it was Sunday, there was mass being held.

4. Dohany Street Synagogue

We also passed by the Dohany Street Synagogue, or the Great Synagogue, which is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world.  It also houses a museum and cemetery, well as a Heroes Temple.

5. Szimpla Kert, a ruin bar

There is so much to see, walking around this city.  But our actual destination was Szimpla Kert, or the first ruin bar in Budapest.  Ruin bars began around 2001, when a group of men were looking for a cheap place to drink.  Old, derelict buildings and abandoned spaces were transformed into casual places to hang out and drink.  Szimpla Kert, in addition to being a bar, also hosts farmers markets in this quirky and fun space.  When we went on Sunday, the market was being held there and it was overrun with tourists clamoring to take photos.  There’s plenty of places to sit, and a little restaurant upstairs, with more seating there as well.

We decided to buy some cheese and fresh strawberries from the vendors, and sit and people watch for the better part of 2 hours.

LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL THIS STRAWBERRY IS.  So shiny and healthy.  Sweet and red.  Unlike strawberries in America, they may be smaller in size, but they make up for it in their burst of flavor.  Also, has anyone ever noticed, strawberries in America are white on the inside??? Hungarian strawberries, amazing! American strawberries, needs work.

6. Parliament Building

And then, it was back to the Parliament building, where we had parked the car, and back to the bus station as my weekend came to a close.  My apologies for not taking photos of everything I ate this trip.  I was really trying to live in the moment, which I will discuss in a later post.  It was a beautiful weekend, with a beautiful friend!

Day 2 recap: a relaxing walk in Budapest

• 8:30 am: Breakfast at Piknik | map
• 9:30 am: Walk along the Danube and view Shoes on the Danube Bank | map
• 10 am: Walking by St. Stephen’s Basilica and Dohány Street Synagogue
• 11 am: Strawberry, cheese, and people watching at Szimpla Kert | map
• 1 pm: Enjoy the parks around Hungarian Parliament again | map
• 2:30 pm: Bus back to Vienna!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Bus from Vienna to Budapest

I took RegioJet, roundtrip, for a total of 18 EUR | 21 USD.  The trip was comfortable, with a free hot beverage and movies/tv shows to watch.  The bus leaves from Stadion Bus Center (near the U2 Stadion stop) and arrives at Kelenfold in Budapest.

2. Arrival into Budapest

I bet you didn’t know, Budapest is a city split into two by the river.  Long ago, the city was two separate cities – Buda to the left of the river, and Pest to the right. The bus arrives on the Buda side. My friend’s apartment, on the other hand, is way over on the Pest side.  Normally, I would have taken the metro to her place, but there was some construction on the metro lines by her flat, so taxi it was.

From her place, we walked over to Margaret Island (Margit-sziget), which is an island in the Danube with plentiful parks and trees.  We strolled to the tip of Margaret Island, where we caught a public transportation river boat service (the BKK Boat Service) down towards the Buda Castle.  On weekdays, you can use your Budapest public transportation ticket to ride on the BKK for free.  Unfortunately, on weekends, you need to buy a separate ticket, for 750 HUF | 2.75 USD.

3. Lunch at Czako Kert

From the Buda Castle stop, we walked along the Buda side, uphill to our brunch spot.  For the geographically curious, the Buda side has hills, whereas the Pest side is flat.  We stopped at Czako Kert, a lovely little cafe with garden, which also houses a farmers market on the weekends.

4. Rudas Bath – the ultimate relaxation!

It was a short downhill walk after lunch to Rudas Bath.  Coming from a few weeks of grueling classes, I suggested we visit a thermal baths.  The famous bath, Szechenyi Baths, was renovating one of their outdoor pools, so we decided on Rudas Bath.  Originally built in the 1500s as a Turkish Bath, Rudas Bath has since expanded to include restaurants, a rooftop jacuzzi with panoramic views, and various different pools.  We paid for the “all in” ticket, which included access to all of their different baths and wellness areas, for 6,200 HUF | 23 USD | 19 EUR.  And there we stayed, for hours on hours on hours. 

I didn’t take any photos. To be honest, I just really wanted to relax and break free from everything.  That didn’t stop other people from doing full on photo-shoots inside the baths. However, to each his own! The baths were amazingly relaxing. Visiting a bath is an absolute must!!

5. Sunset and Dinner at Hadik Cafe

After we finished, after hours of baths, we watched the sun set along the river. Absolute starving and now en route to dinner.  It’s funny how you can work up an appetite when doing absolutely nothing.

From Rudas, we went to the Hadik Cafe, which is a legendary cafe where famous Hungarian writers used to hang out.  On the weekends, it has live music in the evenings.  The inside is pretty quirky, but it’s a fun atmosphere.

I ordered a delicious Spinach “főzelék” (a Hungarian stew), paired with a Hungarian craft beer, Monkey Temple.

By the end of dinner, we were both so exhausted, and in need of sleep! We literally got back to her apartment, showered, and immediately said good night. I love being totally on the same wavelength!

Stay tuned for the conclusion to my short 36 hours in Budapest..

Day 1 recap

• 7:25 am: Regiojet, Depart from Vienna (U2 Stadion) | map
• 10:15 am: Arrive Budapest Kelenfold bus station | map
• 11 am – 1 pm: walking on Margaret Island, boat ride to Buda Castle
• 1:30 pm: Lunch at Czako Kert | map
• 3 – 8:30 pm: Rudas Baths | map
• 9 pm: Dinner at Hadik Cafe | map

Go on to Day 2

Looking for a foodie adventure in Budapest?

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

“If you only have time for one meal, make a reservation at the restaurant Machneyuda.” 

The Points Guy

I basically had time for one great meal. Obviously, I had to try to eat at the best restaurant in Jerusalem.

Machneyuda opens 1.5 hours after the Sabbath on Saturday. After googling, on February 17, 2018, the end of Sabbath was 6:04 pm.  So by 7:15, I was sitting outside of the restaurant, hoping hoping hoping I would get a table.  I did not make any plan B’s, such was the ferocity of my determination.

Arrival to Machneyuda

It was a 6 minute walk from my Airbnb, which would have been fine, except that it started raining, literally the second that I started walking.  With each step, the downpour got heavier and heavier.  In my head, I considered turning around, giving up, and eating chocolate for dinner.  But thinking of the points guy, I thought this was indeed my one open slot for a great meal in Jerusalem, I trudged onward. 

When the doors finally opened around 7:40 pm, I immediately said I was looking for a table for 1, and explained how the reservation system did not work for reservations for 1.  They said there was no availability and they were fully booked for the evening.  But I was welcome to wait.  I have to apologize for my behavior, because I suppose I could have been nicer.  But the rain hampered my mood.  I was waiting outside not more than 3 minutes when the host said there was a cancellation, and if I did not mind eating with another single traveler who also did not have a reservation, that we could share a table.

ENTER NEW FRIEND

As a solo traveler, this has happened in the past, and I was paired up with another woman.  However, back then (in Rome) the other woman did not speak English.  So we sat at the world’s tiniest table, NOT speaking to each other and NOT looking at each other while eating.  LOL

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The host and the waiter gave us a round of shots to show their appreciation for us sharing a table.  Me and S already started chatting it up immediately and were both so happy to not have a dinner in silence.  Plus, as The Points Guy accurately described, it felt like a raucous party inside. 

I ordered the tasting menu, for 295 Shekels (which is about $84), and it was the most generous tasting menu I have ever had in my life. And you will definitely see how it is the best restaurant in Jerusalem!

Without further ado…

1st Course

Tuna tartare with “the worlds smallest tomatoes” and cream cheese.

2nd Course

Caviar paste, with olive oil, red onions, and tomatoes.

3rd Course

Yellowtail sashimi in a crispy “Indian” shell. I didn’t describe it as Indian, the waiter did. Not sure why it was characterized that way though…

I bet you’re thinking “oh, these courses look small and manageable.”  All I have to say to you is JUST YOU WAIT.

4th Course

Beef tartare, with mint and almonds

5th Course

Tiny corned beef slider.

6th Course

Polenta, with asparagus, mushrooms, truffle oil and parmesan cheese, served in a jar .

And now, onto the main courses.  Fortune favors those who don’t give up…

7th Course – Mains

Sea bass, mussels, with chick peas and a tahini Moroccan stew.

7th Course at Machneyuda Continues..

From courses 1-7, I had finished everything that you see before you.  And then more arrives and I am at a loss for words.  But if I had to describe it in one word, it would be MEAT.

Seventh course, part B. Lamb, rib eye, sitting on a leak, with mashed potatoes

Seventh course, part C. Beef.. something..and I don’t remember anymore. meat coma.

Are you alive still?  I barely am, reliving this experience through photos.  Are there more courses?  Of course! 

Dessert

I don’t know anymore!!! All I will say is that coconut ice cream in the lower left hand corner was SUPER FROZEN and did not melt, even when I ate it at the very end. Everything was delicious. Too. Delicious. Too. Much. Food.

Somewhere within the courses was another free round of shots, this time with Ouzo or Rakia…

Parting Thoughts on Machneyuda

Even though my dinner buddy did not order the tasting menu, her courses were equally as large, and we both were so full and satisfied by the end.  And I am so glad we met! 

Machneyuda was a fun dining experience to review, and it certainly lived up to the expectation of being the best restaurant in Jerusalem! 

The rest of the restaurant was so lively with loud music, dancing from random people (living their best life), free shots and amazing food.  And sorry for the dark photos!

I’ll end it here, with me and my new friend, S.  I need a nap after this post. 🙂

Looking for something more low key? How about an introduction to Israel’s Street Food, from Anda at Travel for a While.

Restaurant Information

Machneyuda | map
Beit Ya’akov St 10,
Jerusalem, Israel
Closed: Friday dinner, Saturday lunch
Phone: +972 2-533-3442
Reservations – highly recommended!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m not ashamed to admit that I slept really early that first night in Warsaw.  Which probably led me to wake up even earlier.  But Sundays in Europe… get started late, if at all.  And even the milk bars wouldn’t open until 11 am.  And what time did I wake up?  6 am.  My breakfast choices were either Starbucks (across the street) or at the hotel.  So I chose to eat at the hotel.

Now before the judgments start flying in, bagels originated from the Jewish communities in Poland.  So there.  Still eating local foods!

1. Warsaw Rising (Uprising) Museum

After I packed and checked out, I walked over to the Warsaw Rising (or Uprising) Museum, which is free on Sundays!  This is by far one of the most interesting museums I’ve ever been to.  It collected thousands of artifacts from the Polish Resistance during WWII, had interesting items on exhibit, and shared lots of individual stories of people who fought in the resistance.  I will say it was somewhat of a maze to get through, and I have a suspicion that I didn’t actually see all of it.  (For example, I went around in circles following a sign to get to the observation tower, which I never figured out…)  They also took great care to shield the more graphic photographs and videos from younger audiences, via sections sealed off with a heavy velvet curtains and a warning sign, or something like a well, where adults can look down into it and see some photos (but children are too short to see), etc.

Really awesome museum visit and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to understand Warsaw during WWII.

2. Neon Muzeum

After the Uprising Museum, I took a tram to the artsy neighborhood of Praga, to visit the Neon Muzeum.  Housed in an old warehouse, the Neon Muzeum is dedicated to Soviet-era neon signs, although I’m not really sure why only Soviet / cold war era signs.  But I digress.  It’s a small space, with a good collection.  But not all of the signs were lit up, which was kind of disappointing.

Here are some of my favorites.

3. Old Town Warsaw

From the Neon Muzeum, I finally went into Old Town.  And it was as quaint and colorful as I wanted it to be.  I keep mentioning in my Instagram posts that the Old Town Warsaw was completely destroyed in WWII.  But just as a gentle reminder, they rebuilt everything as it was before the war.  That’s no small feat.

While walking around Old Town, I finally managed to find Zapiecek, AND IT WAS OPEN.  (recall from my previous Warsaw post that I passed by 2 stores only to have one with a line out the door and the other closed for a few weeks).  So I ordered the Pierogie Tasting Menu… and winter tea (tea with ginger and oranges, and so delicious).

It was so amazing as my last Polish meal, and the best way to top off a cold but adventurous weekend!  From there, it was a 45 minute brisk walk, with the Hamilton soundtrack blasting in my ears, and me singing along, roaming the streets of Warsaw.  And then back to the hotel and off to the airport!

If you didn’t catch the beginning of my 36 hour trip to Warsaw, read about it here!

Day 2 Recap*:

• 6 AM: breakfast and laziness at Warsaw Marriott | map
• 10 AM: a dose of history at the Warsaw Rising Museum | map
• 12 PM: bright lights at the Neon Muzeum | map
• 1:30 PM: Old Town and lunch at Zapiecek | map
• 3 PM: Long walk back to the Warsaw Marriott
• 4:30 PM: Leave for Chopin Airport! (using Uber, from the Marriott, was 28 zlotys | $8 USD)

*To view Day 2’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 1 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Overnight train to Warsaw

The night train from Vienna Hauptbanhof leaves around 10:15 pm and arrives in Warsaw Central around 9:15 am.  I paid ~ 130 EUR for a single berth compartment, with a washbasin.  It’s the same compartment as the 3-berth, but the two other bunks were up against the wall.  Here is a short video of inside of the tiny compartment.  (Yes, I am wearing hello kitty shorts, seen in the reflection of the window. The temperature when I first boarded the train blasted heat on high and I could not handle it.)

Watch this video on YouTube.

The compartment was clean and the ride was relatively smooth.  It took awhile to figure out the main light switch and temperature adjustment switch. All of them are above the door, which required me to stand on top of my bed to reach.  When we reached Krakow around 6 am, there was a mild annoyance. The attendant woke Krakow passengers up around 5 am, which caused a lot of commotion and various noises.  But like I said, only a mild complaint.  In the morning, before we arrived in Warsaw, they served breakfast – hot coffee and an unexciting piece of bread with cheese and jam.

1. Arrival to Warsaw!

The first thing you see when you leave the Warsaw Central station is this magnificent beauty. Even though I arrived in the morning, the photo was taken at night (obviously).

This beloved giant was a “gift” from Stalin to the people of Warsaw. The Palace of Culture and Science (or PKiN for short) was built in the 1950s and designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev in the style of socialist realism.  An imposing building that stands out in the Warsaw skyline, it’s still relatively controversial among the locals who see it as a reminder of Soviet influence.

But I digress.  I went across the street from the central station to the Warsaw Marriott hotel (8,000 Chase points transferred to Marriott).  My room wasn’t ready yet, but that’s fine.  I was ready for some pierogies.  I knew exactly where I was going to go. 

2. Bar Bambino for pierogies

Bar Bambino, a traditional Polish “milk bar” or bar mleczny in Polish.  Retro’ish milk bars have popped up in Warsaw as a throwback to the Soviet days, when food was scarce and state-run restaurants served cheap eats.

I looked at the menu online on the train and google translated a few items.  But I was unprepared for the FULL BOARD of menu items.  Milk bars typically don’t have English menus or English speakers.  What to do? I stood at the board staring mindlessly at all the choices.  I let a few people go in front of me, while I watched how they ordered, took their receipt up to the window and handed it to the kitchen women as they waited for their food.  And then, when finished, took their plate up to the other window for dishwashing.

When I finally felt confident enough to order, I basically walked the woman behind the cashier up to the board and pointed to the first item under the pierogi category.  You really can’t go wrong with choosing the first item.  It was 7.80 zlotys, which is about $2.30 USD.  Surprise pierogi for breakfast! For those who don’t know, pierogies are dumplings, usually comprised of potato, cheese, and/or onion, and are typically boiled.

It was mushroom filled!  and a great choice!  What was so surprising was the huge slab of butter that appeared on my pierogies, and had melted by the time I brought the plate to my table.  Well, if this is how locals do it, I might as well embrace the butter.  Remember this phrase, which could be a motto for life in Europe… ✨✨EMBRACE THE BUTTER✨✨.

3. Chopin Museum

From Bar Bambino, I walked on toward the Frederic (Fryderyk) Chopin Museum.  The museum, housed in an old mansion, which like much of Warsaw, was destroyed in WWII and then rebuilt to exact specifications after the war.

Chopin is the favored son of Warsaw, and the namesake of the Warsaw International Airport in town.  Although he died in Paris, he wanted his heart sent back to Warsaw. And so it was… in a jar of cognac…  Still interred in the same jar, his heart now resides at the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw.  I don’t know if you can see the jar or the heart but there you have it.  It’s there.

The Chopin Museum is fairly well done.  It relies a lot on technology – the entrance ticket is a card. Most exhibit items required you to scan the card to hear his music, or to hear about his life, etc.  It was a little unnecessary at best.  A button “activating” the exhibit would have sufficed.  But nonetheless, it was a nice museum dedicated to his life and music.

4. Desserts at Odette

After the museum, I was hungry.  Does that happen to anyone else?  I mean, also, the butter periogies were probably still digesting.  But I know I had to try some of the desserts that Warsaw is famous for.  {So the choice that did NOT win, was a chocolate lounge…}  The winner was Odette, a decadent patisserie, hidden a few side streets away from the Royal Route.

I obviously did not know what dessert corresponded to what flavor, but I figured a brown one could never go wrong.  Flavors could have included chocolate, coffee, hazelnut, etc.  And yet, the dessert I chose had none of those flavors.

With each bite, I really tried hard to think of what flavors were in this dessert.  And to be honest, I literally COULD NOT figure it out.  So blast me if you will, I tried really hard to identify it.  What it was not: chocolate, coffee, or hazelnut flavored.

5. The hunt for traditional Polish food

After dessert, I went back to the hotel to check in and take a little nap.  By 3:30 pm, I decided it was time for a late lunch and I set out looking for a specific, traditional Polish restaurant that had multiple locations around town.  I passed one of the locations, which had a huge line out the door, and decided to move on toward the second location.  The second location was closed until February 13th.  So I walked on to the third location, in the heart of Old Town.  But I was met with a police blockade of the whole Old Town area.  (I later heard that if there is any kind of political event, they just shut down Old Town.)  I couldn’t go around, and the police told us everything was shut down so we should turn around.

By this point, I WAS STARVING.  As I walked back, I decided to just eat in any Polish restaurant I came across, determined to stick with my theme of eating only Polish food.  I came across Ceprownia, which had a sign for a Potato Pancake Festival in the doorway.  That’s good enough for me.

By the time I finished dinner, it was around 5 pm.  All of the museums were closed and I would be unable to attend my evening plan, a Chopin concert in Old Town, so I went back to the hotel and was lazy for the rest of the night.  No judgment… part of vacation is relaxing!  Stay tuned for the conclusion of my weekend in Poland.

6. Photos along the way

But first, here are some random scenes from Warsaw.

Day 1 Recap*

• 9:30 AM: arrival to Warsaw Central Station | map
• 10:15 AM: Pierogies at the Bar Bambino milk bar | map
• 11 AM: mixing technology and music at the Chopin Museum | map
• 12:30 PM: morning desserts at Odette | map
• << nap time >>
• 4 PM: early dinner at Ceprownia | map
• finished for the day, since Old Town was closed off…

*To view Day 1’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 2 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

Onwards to Episode 2 of 36 Hours in Warsaw!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/