food and travel &#8211; Lannie's Food & Travel

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone. She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night! She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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A charming visit to the Isle of Ulva

Lannie — Wed, 07 Jun 2023 06:45:36 +0000

Good morning, friends and readers! Today, I’m taking you on a journey to the Isle of Ulva, Scotland’s best-kept secret. Tucked away off the west coast of Scotland, Ulva is a true off-the-beaten-path adventure that few get to experience. But what makes Ulva so special? Well, for starters, it’s a community-owned island with a population of just 11! Visitors can experience this sparsely populated island while supporting its conservation and sustainability goals. Whether it’s hiking, wildlife watching, or simply soaking in the stunning scenery, Ulva promises an unforgettable adventure with a deep appreciation for this magical corner of Scotland. So, let’s flip the sign to red, and call the ferry master to bring us to Ulva!

1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

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6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

selfie at the Ulva House garden

waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
- Browse ScotRail options to Oban
- from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
- from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
- from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
- Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

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The 4 Best Gourmet Experiences in Madrid

Lannie — Wed, 24 May 2023 06:38:18 +0000

Greetings friends and readers! Are you ready for a culinary adventure in Madrid? In this post, I explore some of the most incredible gourmet experiences in Madrid. Starting with the world’s oldest restaurant, known for their incredible roasted suckling pig. Next, onto the oldest chocolateria in Madrid to enjoy the city’s signature chocolate con churros. For a truly unique experience, I had to savor the tastes and delights of the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with award-winning flamenco show. And the true piece de resistant – an off-the-beaten-path hidden gem with no website, no social media, and no printed menu. This list truly encompasses Madrid for foodies!

And while I wouldn’t call this a Madrid Food Guide per say, it definitely goes beyond the normal food experiences and highlights some of the extremely cool places to eat in Madrid. So, without further ado, here are some exquisite Madrid food experiences!

1. The Oldest Restaurant in the World – Sobrino de Botín

Let’s start at the oldest restaurant it the world, shall we? It would be rude not to.

Located near Plaza Mayor, Sobrino de Botín is the longest continuously run restaurant in the world (and Guinness World Records holder for oldest restaurant). Opened in 1725, Restaurante Botin stayed in the Botin family until 1930, when the González family took over. The original González family endured hard times during the Spanish Civil War, narrowly evading a terrible fate, but they managed to stay open and continue roasting its most famous dish. Over the last 300 years, Botin has only been owned by the Botin and Gonzalez families, which is truly incredible if you think about it!

Botin is known for their roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado). The suckling pigs need to be at a minimum weight of 4 kg (8.8 lbs) or be at least 19 days old before it is roasted to perfection. The roast takes only about 2 hours in the same open door 300-year-old wood-fired oven (with the tile hood in the photo) that Botin has used since it opened its doors on day 1 in 1725.

Holm oak firewood is used in the oven for roasting. The acorns of holm oak trees are fed to the pigs which produce Jamón ibérico (Iberian, or Iberico ham). The circle of life of acorn, oak and pigs.

L: Suckling pigs.
R: the 300 year old wood-fired roasting oven (with tile hood)

Hemingway’s corner table at Botin

Throughout the last 300 years, Botin has had its fair share of celebrities and admirers. But no one more beloved by Botoin than American-writer and war journalist, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway dined there often and even had his own table at Botin – the most unassuming spot in the whole restaurant. Tucked away in a corner, Hemingway was said to be paranoid about being under enemy surveillance and preferred the unassuming corner. I guess I always thought of Hemingway’s would have been more outspoken, or rambunctious, rather than preferring to be sitting quietly in the corner. But what do I know?

Hemingway loved Botin so much, it features in two of his books: Death in the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises (one of my favorite books!)

In the last scene of the novel:

“We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.“
– Final scene, The Sun Also Rises.

For those super foodies, you can sign up for a 45-minute tour of the restaurant before lunch or dinner that includes a 7-course tasting menu. Guess who did that?

Botin tour*

82 EUR per person
Lannie taken & recommended!

45-minute tour of the world’s oldest restaurant, including seeing it’s 300 year old (original) wood-fired oven
Hear stories about old Madrid when the restaurant was first founded;
See (and possibly dine at) Ernest Hemingway’s table hidden in the back corner
Then, settle in for a 7-course tasting menu (family style), which includes either their famous roast suckling pig or roasted lamb!
includes: guide, set lunch or dinner, drinks

Click to Book

Art + Botin tour

(aff link) – 149 EUR per person
an art and foodie tour in Madrid!

Experience the Prado Museum, Madrid’s best art museum with an art history guide
See Francisco Goya’s paintings (which connects to your lunch spot, where he worked as a dishwasher and waiter)
Tour of the world’s oldest restaurant, including seeing it’s 300 year old (original) wood-fired oven
3-course lunch at Botin (famous roast suckling pig, market fresh vegetables, and dessert)
VIP small-group tour, max 12 people

Click to Book

The tour I took (yellow) includes every floor of the building, from the crypt and wine cellar dating back to the 1500s, up to the top floor, a former boarding house. Rumor has it that Spanish artist, Francisco Goya, worked at Botin in the late 1700s as a dishwasher then waiter.

After the tour, I settled in with a couple for the 7-course family style tasting menu. This was fantastic, as we got to try a spread of their most famous dishes! We could also select whether we wanted the famous suckling pig or an equally famous roast lamb. Not surprisingly, we all opted for the suckling pig.

My 7-course family style dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world:

Cured Manchego cheese
Iberian ham (jamon iberico) & chicken croquettes
Roasted red peppers with tuna belly
House scrambled eggs with morcilla blood sausage & potato
Segovian mushrooms with ham
Suckling pig (or roasted lamb)
Dessert – homemade caramel flan for me!

Oh my goodness, what an incredible meal! So many things stood out – the roasted red peppers with tuna belly was phenomenal. The tuna belly was so incredibly tender, and it went wonderfully with the soft texture of the roasted red peppers. The scrambled eggs with blood sausage and potatoes were simple, but delicious. (but then again, I’m not one to shy away from a blood sausage!). The Segovian mushrooms with ham was an unexpected delight. I’m not sure what Segovian mushrooms are, but they reminded me of a fresh and juicy shiitake mushroom. Loved the flavor mixed with the ham!

And then of course, the star of the show, the suckling pig. We didn’t have a whole suckling pig for ourselves, but we all got a more than generous portion. The skin was so light and crispy, not like the thicker pork belly skin you may be used to. The meat, beyond tender and flavorful! And for dessert, I closed with a homemade caramel custard flan. Jiggly, sweet – perfection!

Botin is absolutely one of the most unique restaurants Madrid, and a must if you are hunting gourmet experiences in Madrid!

2. Oldest Chocolateria in Madrid – Chocolatería San Ginés

Visit the oldest chocolatería in Madrid for a quintessentially normal breakfast snack! (is that elevenses?) Ok, I wouldn’t consider this breakfast, but it seems that locals do! Deliciously hot and fried churros and served with a Spanish hot chocolate. If you don’t know what a churro, think of a fried donut, except thin and elongated in shape!

Chocolateria San Gines has been making their churros and chocolate combo at the same location since 1894! Nowadays, Chocolateria San Gines basically owns the whole corner, with different indoor/outdoor seating locations, and an ice cream takeaway window. You can still enjoy your churros and chocolate in the original building, which dates back to 1890, but be prepared to queue up for that! For me, it was a lovely morning, so I opted for outdoor seating.

Churros and chocolate is the normal order (in Spanish: chocolate con 6 churros o 2 porras) and that sets you back 5.50 EUR. For 1 person, I didn’t finish it all. For 2 people, it’s probably perfect! Don’t forget to try dipping your churro in your hot chocolate!

Added benefit – Chocolateria San Gines is open 24-7 / 365 days a year! Since it’s open literally 24-7, you really have no excuse on visiting the oldest chocolateria in Madrid, do you?

3. World’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao

Honestly, who doesn’t love a dinner and a show? This gourmet experience at Corral de la Moreria takes dinner and a show to the next level, pairing a one-Michelin star awarded restaurant with an award-winning Flamenco show.

Photography is only allowed during the first 5 minutes of the show, and although my view for the show was fine, the photos/videos did not turn out. The photos of the show were provided by Corral de la Moreria with permission. Muchas gracias.

What is a tablao?

A tablao is a place where flamenco shows are performed

A tablao is also the term used for the platform floor in which a flamenco dancer dances.

– Wikipedia: Tablao

The show costs 47.95 EUR, and there are a number of different tasting menus to select from. If you have specific food allergies or preferences, don’t worry – Corral de la Moreria offers gluten free and vegan tasting menu options, as well!

If you want to book a dinner and a show, note that you’ll first pay 47.95 EUR for the show booking, and then after the show, you’ll pay for your meal.
There is also a show + a drink option, for 49.95 EUR, which includes both.
It’s a bit confusing, but there is also the option to dine without the show, but that is in the Restaurante Corral de le Moreria, which hosts 4 exclusive tables for dinner. The dinner and show are held at Restaurant Tablao (where the Flamenco stage is). I think it’s the same location, but in separate areas. I couldn’t figure out how to book this option on the booking website, just as an FYI!

Click to Book 💃🏻

Since I am an early bird, I went with the 19:30 pm show, with an 18:30 dinner seating. For the menu, I selected the 5-course tasting menu for 79.95 EUR. The meal is paid separately after the show.

Cream of Glazed Chestnuts, Marrow of Vegetables, Duck and Chinese Artichokes
Scallop Carpaccio with Tomato Tartare, Dates and Cold Garlic and Almond Soup with Coconut Milk
Wild Sea Bass with Creamy Stewed Spring Onions and Smoked Iberian Bacon, accompanied by Grapefruit Emulsion and Fried Capers
Roast Rack of Lamb Rested in its Caramelised Gravy and a Creamy Ragout of Winter Vegetables
Caramelised French Toast Made With Fresh Milk and Served with Banana Ice Cream

What a truly wonderful evening at Corral de la Moreria! Each course was delicious with interesting flavor combinations, but not one course stood out as absolutely incredible. For me, the sea bass was probably my favorite, as it was expertly cooked to perfection with a light and crispy skin.

Following the meal, the lights dimmed and we were treated to an incredible flamenco show. If you’ve never watched a flamenco show, there would be one word I would use to describe the performers – powerful. Both the male and female performers were so intense and had a great command of their movement and the accompanying songs. The guitarists and singers accompanying the performers were also integral parts of the magic.

Because of the show, the majority of people who choose the dinner and show option are tourists. Let that guide you as to what type of experience you will be having at Corral de la Moreria. Is it off the beaten path and a hidden gem? No. Many travelers flock to Corral de la Moreria for this flamenco dining experience and it is definitely one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid.

That didn’t hinder my experience, but if you’re one of those Michelin-star hunters, it’s definitely not like any other Michelin-starred restaurants! As the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao, Corral de la Moreria is definitely a one-of-a-kind Michelin-starred dining experience!

– My Experience at RavioXO –

Before I move onto the last exquisite foodie experience in Madrid, I need to set up the story which brought me there.

For those who didn’t follow my social media stories about being snubbed as a solo diner, a little context. I made reservations for famed Madrid-chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO restaurant several weeks before my trip. Chef David has a number of restaurants in Madrid which have multiple Michelin stars and often ranks at the very top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Some might say that he’s arguably, Madrid’s hottest chef.

Almudena Cathedral

To set the stage, 9 out of 10 meals, due to circumstances of life and travel, I often dine alone. I am fine with this and aside from a handful of annoying experiences, it’s generally not a big deal.

I made reservations online, and although they did not have the option for 1 person, that often happens due to the booking system. Normally, I just email the restaurant afterward and tell them it’s just me. I did just this. Emailed, not once, not twice, but actually three times before someone actually acknowledged me, the day before my lunch.

In that first acknowledgement, they told me to email my reservation modifications to reservas@ravioxo.com. That was the exact email address that I had sent all 3 emails to. Eye roll, but fine. I’ll try again.

RavioXO had a cancellation fee, and I was afraid I’d be charged the cancellation fee for the 2nd person, who was not going to join me. After a brief “misunderstanding,” I was told that the reservation system doesn’t allow tables of 1 person,

“because in our restaurant we do not make reservations for one person. Our availability is only for tables of 2 people or more. In case you finally cannot find a person to accompany you, we could cancel the reservation and we will not charge you any cancellation fee.”

What’s actually wild is, RavioXO has bar seating available in the restaurant, so they could have just sat me at the bar or in a sad corner hidden away from humans. Really anything. But no, Chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO denied me the chance to eat there.

Plaza Mayor

Many people on the internet have tried to suggest to me that solo diners cause a “restaurant to lose money.” To that, I say… have you ever seen me eat?

Had they allowed me to dine that day, quite possibly because I felt bad over the hassle, I would have definitely overcompensated and treated myself by ordering more. A wine or two at lunch, starters, desserts – who knows? The sky could’ve been the limit. If only they served solo diners.

Dear Chef Muñoz and the team at RavioXO,
Being a solo traveler (and a woman at that) is hard enough as it is. People stare at me and harass me all the time simply because I’m a woman alone. And your restaurant? Doesn’t even allow me to eat. I simply can’t fathom why I wouldn’t even be allowed to take one seat at the bar. If you would like to have a honest and frank conversation about how your “more than 2 people only” policy is not inclusive, I would be happy to engage in a discussion offline with you about that.

4. Best hidden gem in Madrid – Restaurante Barrera

After being snubbed for being a solo diner at one of Madrid’s hottest restaurants, I was left scrambling to find an alternative. Granted, Madrid is full of excellent restaurants, but how do you choose from 100 fantastic ones? Following the snub, I really just wanted a homey, off-the-beaten path, cozy restaurant – something that would embrace me with Spanish warmth and hospitality. So, who did I turn to in that instance? None other than Phil Rosenthal, who you may know from Somebody Feed Phil.

Restaurante Barrera is a restaurant with no website, no social media, and no written menu. There are barely any reviews online either. Don’t let that deter you, it’s probably one of the best food experiences in Madrid you could hope for!

When I walked into the Calle Ponzano tapas bar and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what to expect. In all honesty, I didn’t watch Phil’s episode (didn’t want to ruin the surprise) and I was still feeling a little shy from my rejection the day before. Ana Barrera, proprietress, greeted me as I walked in.

Ana and I exchanged some pleasantries, when she asked me about dining alone. I said that sometimes I want to travel and eat nice things, but if no one can accompany me, I choose to go alone. She expressed that she could never have done that back in her day, and that she thought I was very full of “valor” to do so. At least that’s what I could pick up from my poor-Spanish and her (much better) English. I don’t know that anyone has ever referred to me as brave for continuing on in my solo experiences in life, but I appreciated it both in the moment and after.

Without further ado, and without a menu, Ana began listing off the tapas I could choose from.

amuse bouche – egg salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds
light and crisp gazpacho soup, with micro greens (not shown)
crispy fried artichokes tossed in sea salt
the cabrito (baby goat)
an exquisite lemon tart for dessert

If I had more of a stomach, I would have tried their famous crispy pork belly with (mashed) potato, but I think I had a wonderful variety with the above! Despite being tapas, these are definitely not small plates! But they are meant to be shared. With a second diner, you should definitely get all of the above and the crispy pork belly and potatoes! My whole meal cost 58 EUR which was a steal for the quality of the meal I had!

Notable standouts for the meal:

the texture of the pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds with the egg salad amuse bouche was an incredible addition to add variety in the egg salad texture. And marcona almonds are always light and crunchy and especially delicious.
THE FRIED ARTICHOKES. OMG. Expertly fried with gorgeous sea salt flakes. The sweet aubergine (eggplant) glaze was a nice contrast, but I’m not a hugely saucey person, so the artichokes were still perfect without
The cabrito (baby goat) – I didn’t quite expect the cut to look like that, but then again, I really didn’t know what to expect. The flavor was rich and velvety almost, and wonderfully tender. It seemed to be prepared very simply, roasted in a wood-fired oven for hours in its own juices. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best way.
the lemon tart was also a stand out. Calling it a lemon tart really doesn’t do it justice. The outer shell was a hard meringue, with a creamy and still warm, lemon cream/custard oozing out, covering a hidden lemon ice cream on the inside. So many different textures and temperatures, all coming together with a tart, lemony flavor. EXQUISITE in every way!

I wish I could tell you more about Ana and the restaurant, but communication was uneven and internet research for this truly off-the-beaten-path restaurant is scant. After the meal, I did watch Phil’s episode there (Season 5, Episode 5). His chef pal, Javier Bonet, explained “it’s a way – how you eat the food, sharing it with somebody. This is the concept of tapas.”

Well, despite tapas meant for being a shared experience, Ana and Restaurante Barrera made my lunch-for-1 incredibly special and memorable. Out of all the gourmet experiences in Madrid on this trip, Restaurante Barrera was the one that stood out the most.

So, thank you Ana for the wonderful meal, and I will be back for the pork belly and potatoes soon!

Parting thoughts on my gourmet experiences in Madrid

Puerto del Sol

I was a little surprised at how many unique and incredible culinary experiences Madrid had to offer! Yes, Spain is known as a foodie heaven, but I hadn’t actually heard anything specific about Madrid. I mean, to be fair, I’ve never had such a wide variety of experiences in the time span of a few days! It made Madrid just an incredibly delicious trip.

There were so many once in a lifetime food experiences wrapped up in this one short trip. Dining at the world’s oldest restaurant and tasting the suckling pig that’s been roasted in the same way, in the same oven as it was 300 years ago was so special! and not to mention delicious! The churros and chocolate were a surprise breakfast that I didn’t expect, and I wouldn’t eat such a sugar-heavy breakfast in the future, but hey – when in Madrid, do as the Madrileans would have done since 1894! But light and expertly fried (and who doesn’t love to dip a churro), and given that they are open 24-7, there’s no excuse not to swing by and try it!

The Corral de la Moreria flamenco and Michelin-starred dinner experience is definitely for those first timers to Spain, or for people who have never experienced the excitement of Flamenco! Normally at venues where a lot of tourists flock, the food is nothing to write home about. But with this flamenco tablao, food is just as important as the flamenco. Experience a truly unforgettable evening at the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao!

And to round out all the experiences, a wonderful meal at Restaurante Barrera. After being sad and rejected by the hottest restaurant in town, this unassuming tapas bar and restaurant swooped in and saved the day. With simple by powerful dishes and Ana’s soft smile and gentleness, this is by far the stand out of my trip. For a restaurant with no menu, no website, and a written receipt at the end, this was truly the best food in Madrid.

The list above are probably the most outstanding culinary and gourmet experiences in Madrid. If you are looking to supplement this list with the basics on what to eat in Madrid, first start with the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour of Madrid, and then why not consider:

Cooking Classes

Guided Food Tours

Tapas

For this trip, I stayed at the Thomson Madrid – a newly opened 5-star hotel located between the Grand Via and Puerta del Sol. While it was a lovely stay, there was a lot of construction around the property. But it had a phenomenal location and I walked everywhere during my trip from there! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.

For other nice hotels centrally located near Grand Via, consider:

If you’re looking for other unexpected foodie adventures outside of Madrid, how about these places for some food for thought:

Cheltenham – a Regency town in England with an unexpected food culture;
Shetland Islands – a place where food stories warm your heart and soul!

And that’s it for today folks! Until next time, stay healthy and safe!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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A Delicious and Delectable Weekend in Cheltenham for Foodies

Lannie — Sun, 07 May 2023 09:08:00 +0000

Looking for a perfect weekend getaway from London? Look no further than Cheltenham! This charming town is a foodie’s paradise, a Regency gem, home to one of the world’s most famous horse racing events, and only 2 hours by train from London. Cheltenham also hosts the Cheltenham Festival, the annual horse race which draws crowds from around the globe. So, pack your bags and escape the hustle and bustle of London and join me for a weekend in Cheltenham – filled with leisurely strolls on historic streets, stunning Regency architecture, and indulging in a vibrant culinary scene.

If you’re having trouble pronouncing Cheltenham like me, don’t think too hard about it – it goes by quick: CHELT-en-em.

Cheltenham is famous for a number of things, mostly unrelated to each other and random, in comparison with each other:

Banksy sighting in Cheltenham. GCHQ is listening. Always listening.

Cheltenham is the most complete Regency town in the UK and you will get Pride and Prejudice vibes from the old spa town. Cheltenham came to prominence after King George III was recommended to “take in the waters” from the mineral springs in 1788.
Now remember, I said … unrelated.
Cheltenham is the headquarters for GCHQ, Britain’s home of signal intelligence. The building, affectionally called a donut because it looks like one, does not accept visitors. However, there are some fun murals around town that remind you that they’re there and always listening.
Previously called the “Calcutta of the Cotswolds” and an “Anglo-Indian Paradise”, Cheltenham had the most Anglo-Indian residents in Britain outside of London. Because of Cheltenham’s history with The East India Company and the British Raj era, it is home to a number of incredible South Asian restaurants.
Cheltenham is at the gateway to the Cotswolds or at the edge of the Cotswolds. It could be a great base for exploring all those cute picturesque Cotswolds villages!

It’s home to the Cheltenham Festival, “a horse racing-based meeting in the National Hunt racing calendar in the UK, with race prize money second only to the Grand National.” – wikipedia
- Sorry to use the definition from Wikipedia, but having never gone to a horse race, I wanted to use the right terminology when I described it. In National Hunt racing (or jump racing), horses are required to jump fences and ditches. And the biggest National Hunt events in the UK are the Grand National and the Cheltenham Gold Cup.
Besides the big horse racing festival, Cheltenham is home to over 30 different festivals, and is known as the Festival Town! Among the bigger festivals are the Cheltenham Jazz Festival (April-May), the Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival (summer), the Cheltenham Paint Festival (for street art, in September) and the world’s first Literary Festival (October).

With the variety of things to do in Cheltenham, there really is something for everyone!

Before I begin, parts of this trip were sponsored, including my stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments, as well as my bike ride around Cheltenham with Compass Holidays. I sincerely thank them for inviting me on this trip. Besides the cycling tour, all itinerary arrangements and opinions are my own.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s go!

Day 1 – A Foodie Weekend Getaway in Cheltenham

I arrived to Cheltenham Spa rail station midday Friday on a brisk but sunny March morning, having taken a short 45 min train from Birmingham New Street. The station is located about a mile outside of the town center. A quick stop at Beechurst Serviced Apartments to drop off my bags, and to check out my nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham. (all the details below!)

I couldn’t have been more anxious to get out and about. Easily enough, the bus into town is located right outside. Turn left out of the apartments to take Bus 97/98 Gold directly into Cheltenham. Turn right (and cross the street) for the bus to Gloucester.

Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the UK’s most complete Regency Town.

Le Champignon Sauvage

Knowing that Cheltenham was a foodie town meant carefully selecting each of my meals in order to maximize my time there. Of course, last minute planning also meant that my first meal happened to be the most extravagant – a lunch tasting menu at Le Champignon Sauvage. Le Champignon Sauvage, or the Wild Mushroom in French, had been Cheltenham and Gloucestershire’s only Michelin Starred restaurant for many years until nearby Lumiere was awarded a star this year (2023).

Shoulder of Lamb, wilted baby gem, turnip puree

Nutty chocolate cake, clementine sorbet

Run by husband and wife, David and Helen Everitt-Matthias, since 1987 Le Champignon Sauvage has been an institution in culinary Cheltenham. An old review I read called Chef David’s style as “a pure marriage of rich and poor” opting to use cheaper cuts of meats and offal, along with food foraged from the Cotswolds’ outdoors, in classically French dishes.

Of course, people can say this is part of the sustainable eating, zero waste fad. But to be honest, Chef David and Helen began doing this decades ago, when a recession hit and times were tough. And you’d never feel like you were eating anything less than stellar. Not only is the food absolutely exquisite, but the experience is complimented by the lovely and unique decor, thanks to Helen. The restaurant is filled with incredible art that kept this solo diner enthralled throughout the meal.

My 3-course lunch set me back 47 GBP (a great deal if you’re hungry, considering the 2-course option is 40 GBP). Despite me showing you only two courses, you better believe I had all three. 😉 This was the perfect start to my foodie weekend in Cheltenham.

After lunch, I needed a serious stroll. Luckily, the town is very walkable with lots of outdoor green spaces. I made sure to stop by Montpellier Gardens and Imperial Gardens to soak in the brisk spring day, but in reality I was on a food mission to try Cheltenham’s signature pastry.

The HorseChoux Pastry at L’Artisan

A foodie visit to Cheltenham is not complete without your signature HorseChoux pastry from L’Artisan. Paying homage to the racecourse, the horseshoe-shaped pastry is made with a choux bun base (see what they did there? love a good pun) and cream puff filling, with a thin, light chocolate horseshoe on top. The attention to detail is lovely, as each chocolate horseshoe has the 7 lucky pins on the horseshoe.

I opted for the original flavor, the Racecourse, with hazelnut and almond praline filling. You can also get the Pittville Park (pistachio), the Pump Room (zingy lemon) and the Queens (raspberry). They also have limited edition flavors as well!

Getting a HorseChoux pastry in Cheltenham is an absolute must if you’ve got a sweet tooth! I took one back with me to Beechurst Serviced Apartments, and it made the most delightful snack paired with a strong coffee!

After grabbing my HorseChoux, I did another turn about town before catching the bus back to the apartment for a wee rest.

The Curry Corner

Sometimes I underestimate how tiring it can be to be walking around outside in briskly cold weather. My wee rest turned into curling up in the cozy Holst Apartment for way too long, and suddenly it was time to sort my dinner. I knew it had to be South Asian food, due to Cheltenham’s history and importance with the British East Indies Company.

For those interested in this unique intersection of history, food, India and Imperialism, I’d suggest the Curry and Colonels tour. (Next time for me!)

I opted for The Curry Corner, an award-winning restaurant opened by the Krori family, which claims to be one of the oldest Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK! Thankfully, they deliver which made all my cozy dreams come true. I may have gone a little overboard with 2 orders of samosas, but such is the benefit of having a full kitchen and refrigerator at my disposal! Leftovers for later. 😉

My two orders of samosas were the regular veggie samosas along with an order of Brixham crab samosas, filled with Cornwall fresh crab. Of course, the fresh crab samosa would catch my eye! It was stunningly flavorful, sweet even. I’m so glad I got both samosas for some extra variety!

The main event had to be the Chef’s signature 16 spice masala, which I had with lamb tikka. Add an incredibly fragrant garlic pilaf rice with it, and you have a perfect night in! Chefs Shamsul and Saleha Krori have been cooking since the restaurant opened in 1977, and is now joined by daughter Monrusha in the kitchen.

Day 2 – exploring Cheltenham by bike

After a fabulous first day focused on food, Day 2 in Cheltenham would be spent exploring the Regency Cheltenham cycle trail on bike, thanks to Compass Holidays. The self-guided trail, which starts at the Cheltenham Train Station, is a gentle 6-mile trail, taking you along the Honeybourne Line, through Pittville Park, and back around through to the town centre.

This activity was kindly gifted by Compass Holidays.

There were a few admin items to take care of before setting out: download the app (for my cycling GPS) and adjust the height of the bicycle to fit me. Remember, safety first!

Prices for the Regency Cheltenham Cycle Trail are:

the mobile app with GPS and information on the cycle trail – 10 GBP;
standard bicycle hire (25 GBP) or e-Bike hire (35 GBP). All hires include mobile phone mount, helmet, lock and basic repair kit.

and then I was off, along the Honeybourne line (an old railyway line) and onto the Pittville Pump Room!

The Pittville Pump Room

The Pittville Pump Room, built between 1825 and 1830, is the largest (and newest) spa building to be constructed in Cheltenham. The waters around Cheltenham were known to have high mineral content since the early 1700s, but it wasn’t until King George III visited Cheltenham in 1788 that the town became increasingly famous for its waters. Unfortunately the Pump Room did not prove to be successful venture, and the Room and the grounds were passed to the town council in 1890. Nowadays, you’ll find various exhibitions being hosted there, as well as being a concert venue for the Cheltenham Music Festival.

The Pump Room is located on the northern end of Pittville Park, and is a lovely park with a playground for families. One of the lovely green spaces that Cheltenham has!

Cheltenham Racecourse & the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway

From here, although it’s not on the Regency Cycle Trail, I thought it was worth a slight detour to go visit the racecourse. When I visited, the Cheltenham Festival was only a week or two away, and excitement around the races were high. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see any horses, jockeys or even the race track itself, but it was fun to take a stroll around the grounds.

From one end of the racecourse to the other is a little surprise that I discovered – the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway. For those rail enthusiasts, this is a volunteer-run heritage steam and diesel railway that travels 28 miles between Cheltenham Racecourse and Broadway (Cotswolds). The route follows the Great Western Rail’s old Cheltenham – Birmingham main line, which use to run via Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.

For 25 GBP, you can get an unlimited day ticket to go between Cheltenham and Broadway, riding in 70 year old train carriages, pulled by either a steam or diesel-powered locomotive (engine car). This definitely goes hand in hand with a “step back in time” to experience Cheltenham theme! I didn’t have time on this trip for the rail journey, but I hear the views across the Cotswolds are absolutely stunning!

Lunch at The Coconut Tree

After having worked up an appetite from the morning’s cycle and exploration, and checking my map for the rest of the route, I decided now would be the perfect time to pause and have a lunch break. You can’t be too surprised at this priority.

I don’t know if it was the South Asian mood I was already in or if I was just craving Sri Lankan street food, but I decided to go with the Coconut Tree for lunch. Interesting story, 5 Sri Lankan friends made their way to the UK to be closer to family or to continue their studies. One of them made Cheltenham his base, and the rest followed soon after. In 2016, the 5 friends had to move out of their flat and were looking for a new place with cheap rent. They came across the flat above St. Paul’s Tavern (which included the rent for the pub) and from there, the idea of a Sri Lankan tapas place with great cocktails was born.

After 6 months of renovating it themselves at night after working their day job, the first Coconut Tree opened in Cheltenham. Today, they have locations in 9 cities across Southwest England and Wales.

For me, it was an egg hopper (coconut milk pancake, with lots of sambol) and black pork (belly). The food was incredibly flavorful (and super authentic!) and the vibe was fun and easy going. If I didn’t have to cycle home, I definitely would have tried some of their delicious cocktails! The Coconut Tree is definitely a must eat in Cheltenham!

After lunch, I was back on the trail and enjoying spring starting to blossom around me.

The trail takes you back into the city center, and it’s a great time to pause to roam around on foot. Besides the distinctly Regency architecture, there are a few sculptures and things you’ll come across that definitely require a more detailed look. Two of my favorites would be the Neptune Fountain, rumored to be inspired by Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and the Hare and the Minotaur on The Promenade. These two vastly different sculptures really only highlight Cheltenham’s culture of creativity and arts, which the town loves to celebrate through its numerous festivals.

The CheeseWorks – always planning ahead!

I took the opportunity whilst in town to do a wee bit of shopping. I stopped in a few vintage shops and almost came home with a gold embroidered cloak! What if there is a ball? You never know when you’ll need one? But the real excitement of my shopping experience was at CheeseWorks.

I walked into CheeseWorks with a mission – to get local charcuterie that would become my quiet dinner at home. I began chatting with the clerk over the local cheeses, and then he asked what I was looking for. “Honestly,” I said, “I just want to spend about 15 GBP, and get a random spread of local meats and cheeses.”

Simple enough, you came to the right place.

-The Cheeseworks

I’ll be honest, I pick and chose the cheeses at random, but one that was phenomenal was the wild garlic Cornish yarg. In the photo above, you’ll see a block on the bottom right wrapped in something dark. Well, it’s wrapped in wild garlic. If you’re a garlic head like me, you’ll love this! And with an additional 3 GBP, I added a fig jam spread (my favorite!) and some linseed crackers, and I was completely sorted for a quiet dinner at 18 GBP!

Parks and Gardens around Cheltenham town

I mentioned earlier that Cheltenham has a lot of lovely green space for little strolls and people watching. Armed with a latte from the Clementine Cafe, I went around the parks and gardens, found a bench, and sat enjoying my afternoon. Spring was on the verge of blooming, so I bet they’re even lovelier in warmer months! Be sure to check out

Sanford Park (below right) – take in the wandering foot paths with the Annecy Gardens and Italian Gardens brightening up the park in warmer seasons,
Imperial Square and Gardens (below left) – located near The Promenade, and planted with thousands of bedding plants for lush floral displays. With Regency architecture surrounding the square and the Garden Bar (in the summer), the best thing you can do is grab a drink and soak in Regency Cheltenham around you!
Montpelier Gardens – near town center, Montpelier Gardens is mostly divided into two sections – one with tennis courts, a cafe and facilities, and the Gardens Gallery community art gallery. The northern section is more for picnics, walking, sitting, and overall low key hanging out.

With my charcuterie platter in tow, I made my way back to Beechurst Serviced Apartments to coorie in for the evening. If you didn’t want to stay in like me, I’d suggest MUSE Brasserie, Mowgli Street Food, Lumiere (Cheltenham’s newest Michelin Star restaurant), or Purslane Restaurant (known for their sustainably caught seafood!). For those wanting a great cocktail, I’ve heard incredible things about The Alchemist Cheltenham. Those are the ones that kept my attention during my trip research and the ones I’d go back to Cheltenham to visit!

The next morning, I managed to run out for a quick breakfast at WOODKraft before my train. In case anyone was wondering, after a weekend of eating, it was a delectable granola with yogurt and passionfruit. Had I not been rushing out the door to catch my noon train, I would have rounded out the weekend with a quick trip to Gloucester to visit the Gloucester Cathedral, which originally broke ground in 1089! For those Harry Potter fans, the Gloucester Cathedral was used as a filming location for Hogwarts. But alas, train schedules call!

My stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments

Picture by Mikal Ludlow Photography

Beechurst Serviced Apartments are located in a renovated, grand Victorian farmhouse, just outside of Cheltenham town. There are 5 beautiful and spacious self-catering apartments for you to choose from – four one-bedroom apartments and one studio flat. Owned and operated by Angie and Steve, seasoned veterans of the hospitality industry, Beechurst Serviced Apartments is a family run business. Their previous experience in luxury hotels can be seen in the thoughtful touches around the apartments. There is everything you need to just come in and make it your home for the weekend!

One of the first things you may notice about Beechurst Serviced Apartments when you arrive are the solar panels on its roof. This helps to reduce the building’s energy requirements by almost 40%, which is incredible! That also means that they’ve cut down on single-use amenities to reduce waste, so be sure to pack your bathroom toiletries along with you.

All of the apartments at Beechurst Serviced Apartments are named and decorated after prominent people who came from Cheltenham. For me, it was the Holst Apartment, named after Cheltenham-born Gustav Holst, a composer best known for his orchestral suite, The Planets. Little musical touches were added to the Holst Apartment, keeping in line with the theme.

The Holst Apartment was so comfortable and cozy, and really, such a nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham! Having a full kitchen at your disposal is something that I enjoy, especially when my whole weekend centered around food! I’m not going to lie, I heated up and nibbled on my Bangladeshi curry and delicious samosas as a snack throughout the weekend, and was so grateful for that kitchen!

Despite spending the majority of the brisk weekend outdoor walking and cycling around town, the shower in the Holst Apartment was exactly what I needed – hot and incredibly powerful. Perfect to loosen the muscles and immediately climb into the comfortable bed.

Besides the kitchen and the incredible shower, which are phenomenal amenities, each of the apartments (and studio) has a large, smart TV mounted and a bookshelf with plenty of books to choose from.

Although Beechurst Serviced Apartments sits outside of Cheltenham town center, the bus stop directly outside made going in and out of town super easy. You really don’t need your car for your weekend in Cheltenham, and it’s easy and lovely seeing the sites by bicycle on the Regency Cycle Trail. But if you want to use Cheltenham as a launchpad for a wee getaway in the Cotswolds, then your car will come in handy!

Whether you’re looking for a foodie weekend getaway or a short break to “take in the waters”, Beechurst Serviced Apartments make for a wonderful base for a weekend getaway in Cheltenham!

Explore Beechurst 🏡

Parting Thoughts on my Foodie Weekend in Cheltenham

Gustav Holst statue in the Imperial Square and Gardens

WOW – I could have never expected that Cheltenham was so delicious!! Prior to visiting Cheltenham, I had no idea that it had such a strong, historical South Asian connection that is still very much alive in its cuisine! Foodies will definitely not want to miss the HorseChoux Pastry, which pays homage to the annual Cheltenham Festival and races.

From Sri Lankan street food to the UK’s oldest Bangladeshi restaurant on one end, to some of the best local charcuterie from one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, the Cheltenham food scene encompasses a lovely mix of historical, traditional and local. The fun and vibrant culinary scene continues to expand with restaurants and cocktail bars being recognized by outsiders more and more.

Staying at Beechurst Serviced Apartments was perfect for me with easy access into town and all the homely touches I needed for a weekend away.

To conclude, my weekend in Cheltenham was a wonderful escape for anyone looking for a little bit of history along with a culinary adventure. Whether you’re a horse racing fan, a foodie, or just someone who loves exploring new places, Cheltenham has something for everyone. With its charming streets, picturesque gardens, and mouth-watering food, you’ll fall in love with Cheltenham in no time. Cheltenham is easily accessible as a weekend getaway from London (or even further afield like Glasgow)! It’s a town that will steal your heart and leave you yearning for more!

For other foodie adventures around the UK, feel free to check out:

a love letter to Shetland I wrote after visiting to explore their food culture;
a foodie adventure around Edinburgh, exploring the Scottish capital with haggis, whisky, and all the greats of Scottish cuisine;
a delectable food and whisky pairing hosted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Planning your trip to Cheltenham

1. How to get to Cheltenham?

Cheltenham Spa Station is accessible from London Paddington on GWR, which only takes 2 hours with no changes.
There are also direct trains to Cheltenham Spa from if you’re coming from Manchester Picadilly (2 hr) and Birmingham New Street (45 min).
For all available trains into Cheltenham Spa

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2. Ideas for things to do in Cheltenham and best places to eat in Cheltenham

Join the Regency Cycle Trail with Compass Holidays and see the historic town on 2-wheels!
Explore Cheltenham on a self-guided 90-minute audio tour of historic Cheltenham town at your own pace! For only 5.56 GBP / 7 USD, you get a Blue Badge tourist guide accessible any time through an easy app. Click for your self-guided tour of Cheltenham!
For something a little funner and different, go on a scavenger hunt through town and explore Cheltenham that way! Great for groups and families!
Stroll around town and enjoy the variety of street art and sculptures!
Soak in the waters at Cheltenham’s spas – the Greenway Hotel & Spa and the DoubleTree by Hilton Cheltenham are considered the best!

Cheltenham also has a variety of afternoon tea services, which is on point for Regency Cheltenham. I wanted to go and enjoy afternoon tea, but alas – other food called 😉

The Queen’s Hotel, The Regency Tea Rooms, Malmaison, Once Upon a Tea Room, and No. 131 Restaurants are the afternoon tea in Cheltenham that came up most during my research.
Or, for a completely different spin on afternoon tea, (for you sushi lovers) Kibou has a Japanese-inspired afternoon tea that I really wanted to try! But alas, next time.

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Take the Ferry to Jura in 3 Simple Steps!

Lannie — Thu, 30 Mar 2023 06:24:55 +0000

Hello again friends and readers! Today, allow me to introduce you to my neighbor, the Isle of Jura. This island off the Scottish coast may have a population of 220, but it’s home to over 6,000 deer – that’s right, deer outnumber people by a long shot! Don’t let that deter you, though, because Jura is a wild and wonderful place that’s just waiting to be explored. In this post, I’ll break down your various options to take the ferry to Jura, including a potentially doable day trip from Glasgow!

From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The Paps of Jura, as seen from Islay

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

Tayvallich to Jura

10:00 to 10:50 am – Monday to Saturday – except Tuesday
18:00 to 18:50 pm – Monday to Friday (except Tuesday), + Sunday.

Jura to Tayvallich

08:30 to 09:20 am – Monday to Saturday – except Tuesday
16:30 to 17:20 pm – Monday to Friday (except Tuesday), + Sunday.

Click here to Book!

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
- 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
- Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
There are toilets on board.
There is disability access all around the boat.
Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

(1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
(2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
- Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

Corran Sands Beach

To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

Jura Brewery TrALEr with a pipe band on Jura

take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
- Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
- Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
- Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
- Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
- Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
- Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

Scampi, chips, and mushy peas from Antlers. Chef’s kiss delicious!

Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

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A post shared by Kirsty Richardson (@the_island_bakehouse)

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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A wintery night at Inver: a record player, 2 picnic baskets, and an iced out valley

Lannie — Wed, 25 Jan 2023 07:29:23 +0000

I’m back with a winter foodie adventure, to Inver – Scotland’s first Michelin Green Star restaurant! Tucked away on the Cowal Peninsula, Inver is located in Strachur, Argyll & Bute on the west coast of Scotland – along the banks of Loch Fyne. Co-owners Rob Latimer and Pam Brunton took over Inver in 2015, and since then, it has become legendary under Chef Pam’s direction. Words like “sustainability” and “local produce” are their ethos, years ahead of the rest of the world.

And with Scotland’s incredible larder on their doorstep, there’s no wonder that Inver is globally recognized for their food. In 2021, Inver was awarded the first Michelin Green Star in Scotland. In 2022, Inver retained its Michelin Green Star and on top of that, the National Restaurant Awards awarded Inver the Best Restaurant in Scotland!

Inver in the snow.

The Michelin Green Star is a new designation from Michelin Guide which celebrate the importance of sustainability in gastronomy.

They hold themselves accountable for both their ethical and environmental standards, and work with sustainable producers and suppliers to avoid waste and reduce or even remove plastic and other non-recyclable materials from their supply chain.
What is a Michelin Green Star – Michelin Guide

First rolled out in 2020/2021, Inver is still the only restaurant with a Michelin Green Star in Scotland. Across the UK and Ireland, the vast majority of Michelin Green Star restaurants are in England (27 restaurants), whereas Wales, Ireland, and Scotland each only have one.

Before I continue, I guess I should preface this by saying, this is more of a winter adventure than a foodie adventure. If you want to skip to the good part, check out my full Inver tasting menu experience from March 2023.

1. A Winter’s Tale at Inver

I write this as another “bomb cyclone” just hit the United States… When you book anything in the middle of December, there’s always the chance that a big snowy or cold surprise could derail that. However, typical coastal locations in Argyllshire (Scotland) are usually a few degrees too warm for snow. Rain yes, snow, mm, sometimes.

This also means that coming from Islay, it was raining… which is not unlike your average Monday. Road conditions on the mainland were snowy but pretty good. And luckily, the turn off for Inver was before good ole “Rest and be thankful” on A83 – a section of the road so terrible that it’s a regular source of humor and conversation within the community.

When I arrived at Inver, housed in a former crofter’s cottage, I was taken aback by the stunning views of Old Castle Lachlan and the quiet surrounding the loch. I was met by Rob, who brought me indoors into the bright and cozy lounge. Unfortunately, he and Pam decided to cancel and close for the evening. They tried to phone me and the other guests, but couldn’t reach us. Some pipes in the bothies had burst, and with the drop in temperature forecasted, the narrow, windy country roads were sure to freeze.

Rob explained that the local area usually stays warm enough, being next to the coast, where there is rarely snow or ice. But with a freak winter storm, this was the first time they’d had snow since they took over. To get to Inver, there is a little valley the road cuts through. Within the valley, a little microclimate in itself, the temperatures dip a few degrees colder than the surrounding area. The snow on the ground turns to mush, and with the dip in temperature, the valley would definitely ice over and become the most treacherous local section. Everyone who worked at Inver lived on the other side of the valley. And if they couldn’t prepare something for me for dinner, food was also on the other side of the valley.

When I departed the following morning, the roads were still pretty icy, and I can fully confirm the iced out valley that Rob warned me about!

But, I would have a place to stay that night.

So, with a roaring fire Rob bid me a temporary adieu to figure everything else out.

2. Staying at Inver – my Luxury Bothy

When dining at Inver, you have the option to stay the night in one of a handful of luxury shepherds huts or bothies. Designed by Pam’s father Rodger, these huts and bothies include large glass windows to bring in ample light in a warm, Scandinavian setting. My bothy came with a bathtub (yessss), a record player (with a collection of records), a table and 2 chairs with a view, and an enormously comfortable bed. It felt spacious and luxurious. The bothy itself was snug and toasty, despite the cold snap outside. All I wanted to do was coorie in.

“Coorie in”: Scots phrase meaning to snuggle in, or to be cozy

I settled into my seat with the view of Old Castle Lachlan, with my glass of red and some old jazz playing on the record player, toasting all the unexpected things in life. A few hours later, in what felt like a coordinated “Be Our Guest” delightful whirl, Inver staff danced into the bothy with 2 picnic baskets – one for dinner, one for tomorrow’s breakfast. The last staff lingers outside the bothy at the door.

He pops his head in – “Don’t forget the pudding later!” he says as he drops a bowl of ice cream in a mound of snow at the doorstep. In a whirl, he’s gone into the darkness.

You can’t help but smile at the irony. Too cold and icy to drive, perfect for a Michelin green star ice cream, left in the snow.

The dinner shuffle quickly exits, with everyone’s warmest wishes and apologies for the evening. The picnic will be great, I say with a smile, while bidding them good night.

And it truly is.

3. My dinner picnic basket from Inver

Don’t think that just because it was a picnic dinner, it was lacking in any way! It was not! Along with a typed menu for the evening, containers contained wee instructions to assemble the course.

Bread sticks & yeast glaze, sourdough miso dip – the most delicious sourdough miso dip known to mankind!
Onion soup – savory and creamy, and piping hot out of the thermos.
Sourdough bread & Inver butter – enough to save some for breakfast!
Dressed loch Fyne crab, sea buckthorn, & fennel, with herring roe – a light and lush addition to my dinner picnic!
Ardyne Farm pork sausage roll – gorgeously delicious pork sausage, with crisp and light pastry. Perfect for a cold night!
Buckwheat ice-cream & late autumn fruits (with some puffed buckwheat to “sprinkle on the pud”!)
Ameretti biscuits
Hand-made Scottish chocolates

The dinner was a vibe unto itself. Pitch black outside, with snow and ice covering the ground. Inside, it couldn’t have been more different.

A record player setting the mood with some jazz, a tall glass of red, and a Michelin green star picnic in a luxury bothy.

As far as snow days go, this one isn’t bad!

4. Breakfast picnic basket from Inver

The coziness of the bothy just means that there are inherent challenges getting out of bed. That’s ok – some mornings are made for basking in the comfort of a slow, winter’s day.

For my breakfast picnic, behold the local delights Chef Pam and her team prepared:

Sourdough, Inver butter & jam
Boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt
Inver potted trout – my favorite of the breakfast items. I never knew I would be a “fish for breakfast” kinda gal, but this was absolutely stunning spread over the sour dough bread with some butter. In addition to the trout roe, the herb salt, and that rich Inver butter… it was chef’s kiss delicious!
Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
Inver cardamon yoghurt & autumn fruit compote
Fresh fruit
Orange juice

It was a wonderful breakfast, without any hot foods, but 100% not lacking in any way. By the time breakfast was over, I was beaming with gratitude that despite unforeseen circumstances, I could still enjoy such an incredible stay at Inver.

5. Meeting Chef Pam Brunton

Many foodies would jump at the chance to have a 1-on-1 conversation with a world renowned chef. Spending any bit of face time with someone that talented is always exciting. I imagined being wide-eyed, dreamy, and salivating hearing about local cheese producers or local farmers or fisherman. Of course, those conversations didn’t take place because of the big winter detour.

During what must have been a stressful afternoon for her, the one thing I remember about Chef Pam is her incredible laugh. Spirited and boisterous, her laughter fills the cold winter afternoon with warmth and comfort.

But really, what else could we do in the face of this situation, but laugh? Well, I’ll tell you what I did. And Pam had the same idea for me. Bottle of wine? 100% yes. That’ll do just fine, cheers!

Cheers to Rob and Pam Brunton, and the Old Castle Lachlan

Parting Thoughts on my Dine and Stay at Inver

For a business that just had to do the unthinkable and cancel services due to weather, Rob and Pam still made it a wonderful evening and overall stay. Their sense of hospitality runs deep within them, and even in surprising circumstances, they still made it a lovely experience!

The picnic baskets were a thoughtful addition to what could have been a ruined evening. In reality, nothing in the picnic baskets felt like an afterthought. There were no mismatched cutlery or plates or bowls. Even the thermos which kept the onion soup piping hot was in the same Scandinavian chic, muted color palette as the rest of the bothy. All of the jars and containers for the dishes and all of its accouterments were glass or otherwise reusable. It goes without saying there were no single use plastics found anywhere in those chic, delicious, and super sustainable picnic baskets.

The food was exquisitely delicious for a picnic, and it makes me look forward to when I can return in March 2023 and try it in full. I imagine it will be an exquisite experience! Stay tuned for the updated “real” Inver experience!

I did return in March 2023, and it was INCREDIBLE. Get the full details!

Information on Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh

Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (one with a bath)
Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking. However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

If this type of luxury dine and stay in Scotland is your thing, be sure to also check out:

Monachyle Mhor – hidden away in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park;
The Peat Inn – a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms near St. Andrews – a wonderful stay with a wonderful meal!
Kinloch Lodge – a charming lodge on the the Isle of Skye;
and Glenegedale House – a luxury B&B on Scotland’s whisky island known for their hospitality and food!

Or if you’re simply on the hunt for incredible food in Scotland, might I suggest this delightfully curated list of the best seafood platters in Scotland or seek inspiration from my recent trip with some peerie stories of Shetland food.

Until next time, stay safe and eat delicious food!

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Best seafood in Scotland: an enthusiast’s list

Lannie — Thu, 05 Jan 2023 06:04:16 +0000

I have been quietly singing Scotland’s food’s praises over the last few years, and that praise has extended to Scottish seafood – the absolute glory of fresh seafood. Why Scotland isn’t outwardly more famous for its freshly caught, landed, or dived seafood is beyond me. But as the world slowly catches up to my secrets, I will continue my hunt for the best seafood in Scotland.

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

Located just outside Tobermory;
Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
includes some oatcakes and bread;
call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
2023 price per person: 100£;
lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
served with a salad,
Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
served with a salad,
Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
Available to order online for pick up;
the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

Photo courtesy of Kay, the Chaotic Scot, whom I shared this lush meal from The Nook on Gigha with.

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Fish and Chips at Tailend in St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

Mussels from No.88 in Shetland

The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Unpopular opinion: Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Lannie — Mon, 28 Nov 2022 18:32:19 +0000

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Unalome, a one Michelin-starred dining experience in Glasgow. Having only opened their doors in June 2021, Unalome by Graeme Cheevers earned their Michelin Star within one year of opening. For someone who enjoys fine dining in Glasgow, I knew it was only a matter of time before I prioritized this restaurant for a visit!

In some of my normal fine dining “review” posts, I normally let the pictures speak for themselves. However, there is a bit more to be said this time.

The lighting in the restaurant was too dim for the newest of iPhones, so excuse the photo quality, but perhaps that in itself is foreshadowing.

the amuse–bouche

1. Not given the option of a tasting menu

Typically, when I go to restaurants like Unalome, I am dining alone. And while it may be unusual, this solo diner enjoys multi-course tasting menus. À la carte options are typically available, as well. This time, when the menu was brought out, I was only given the à la carte menu. Tables nearby had a trifold menu where I overheard diners discussing the vegetarian or normal tasting menu options. However, my menu was only bifold giving me only à la carte options.

Subsequent internet research confirmed my suspicions of a tri-fold menu, giving non-solo diners the option of the tasting menu.

I didn’t ask – I mistakenly assumed that the à la carte and tasting menu had the same items on it. However, when I ordered the tasting menu, there was a little surprise from my server, but also no additional effort to show me the tasting menu either.

It’s also confusing that the à la carte menu says its 90£ per person, when the tasting menu is priced at 110£ pp. Why would the à la carte be charged per person?

2. Eating my tasting menu blind

Mackerel Tartare and Gigha Oyster

Not having the menu was a real miss for me. I genuinely enjoy referring back to the menu and seeing if there were flavors that I overlooked in the first bite. It also took away from the built up excitement for the next course, as well.

I’m not sure if it’s the discomfort of a solo diner – I am all too familiar with this… Or that they were trying to give me space to enjoy my meal in peace. Either way, I felt that the team spent less time explaining the nuances of each course to me.

the “Sample Tasting Menu” from the website

Recall too, that I am eating these courses blind – having not received the menu… Later, I found a sample tasting menu online. But in the moment, in the absence of a physical menu to refer to, the descriptions when the courses arrive should help to supplement that. While I don’t expect the wait staff to explain every foam, every flower, or every puree in each course, I do hope for a little more explanation. I overheard servers going into far more detail about each course and each item on the plate for other diners.

I tried to prompt my servers by asking questions as they checked on me, showing interest in the ingredients and hoping for more detail at the next course. But, it didn’t quite work either.

3. I would’ve chosen different plating

Another thing that I found a little odd about my dining experience were the plating and cutlery (silverware) options provided. It’s one of those things where if it’s done properly, you don’t think about it during your meal. But in reality, people spend effort in carefully and thoughtfully selecting the right bowl or plate for the particular dish. My issue with this was that there were a few courses that were soupy or foamy in nature. However, these were served in large, shallow pasta dishes (essentially). It was really difficult to get the most out of your course in such a shallow dish.

There was one course, where I really wanted a knife to cut the 2 small potatoes. Instead of a knife, I had a fork and a spoon (the rest of the dish was foamy and soupy). Not wanting to put a large chunk of potato into my mouth, I tried to carefully slice it with a fork and a spoon. There is no graceful way of doing this, and my spoon clamored down onto the plate with a thud both times I attempted this.

Luckily, it wasn’t just me. When nearby tables were served that course, I heard the familiar, loud thud as the spoon hit the plate.

4. Not the most creative dining experience

Besides the incredible food, part of the fun of fine dining experiences is the sheer creativity that chefs employ in imagining and creating their courses. Seeing how a chef can excite all your senses, not just taste, is what sets them apart in a league of their own.

However, 3 back-to-back courses were foamy and soupy.

The Orkney scallops had a white foam, along with pumpkin purée, pumpkin seed pesto, and maybe pickled pumpkin;
Wild Perthshire Mushrooms, also had a white foam, a garlic soup, and two delicious but unknown sauces;
North Sea Cod Loin with a white foam, and a cauliflower puree.

Don’t get me wrong, the flavors were rich and interesting, but the white foamy excitement of the Orkney scallops became a tired foam after the 3rd foam course.

Orkney scallops, white foam
Wild Perthshire mushrooms, white foam
North Sea cod, white foam

5. Not paying homage to their food producers or sustainable food practices

“From our hand dived scallops to foraged cep mushrooms, we are passionate about sourcing the best ingredients, sustainably.”

I’m surprised to find this quote on their website, under the Sustainability section.

Part of the reason that I love the food experience in Scotland is this beautiful relationship between chef and food producers. Other restaurants have regaled me with tales of the farm that they get their fresh flowers from, or the fisherman that have supplied them with the freshest catch over the years. In some rare cases, I can even give you the name of the individual who hand dived the scallops on my plate. I mean, I did just travel to the end of the world to Shetland to meet the people behind the food there.

These are the stories that I live for in my food experience. The stories that humanize my food experience. To recognize the beauty and importance of every contribution in the local supply chain.

Even with the “Wild Perthshire Mushroom” course – I’d like to assume it was foraged in Perthshire’s big tree country, but even then, that’s an assumption. This would have been a good course to talk about sustainable food practices.

There are some restaurants that can weave these stories seamlessly throughout the dinner service without a second thought. And then, there are those restaurants that leave you guessing and scouring the internet for answers.

Michel Cluizel White Chocolate Parfait

Parting Thoughts and lasting impressions on Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Now at the end, I should start at the beginning.

the Unalome symbol

Dear folks at Unalome, if you would like to take this moment to have a conversation about the cultural and solo dining aspects of the menu or my experience, I would welcome that wholeheartedly.

Unalome (pronounced oon-a-lome) – the word itself is a Buddhist symbol which represents the winding path of life, which leads to an individual’s enlightenment.

As someone connected to the Buddhist community (I am not an actively practicing Buddhist), this symbol and its elegant representations feel misused as a brand name for a restaurant that doesn’t even explain its significance. To be honest, it feels almost as bad as backpackers in Bali or Bangkok who get this “cool” symbol tattooed on their body. But Unalome (the restaurant) has nothing to do with the symbol. They’ve just taken the word – the name. I’m fighting the urge to say that the name has been bluntly appropriated from Buddhist culture, with no regard to its meaning or significance.

Not knowing much about the chef’s culinary background, maybe Buddhism did inspire him to name a restaurant after a religious symbol… and if that’s the case, then PR needs to do a better job of communicating that.

“Traditionally a Buddhist symbol, Unalome, is Chef Graeme Cheever’s first solo venture providing a season and modern European menu, that have been inspired by Japanese culture and cooking.”
– blurb on the menu

A culturally sensitive person would not have began the restaurant introduction with the words, “Traditionally, a Buddhist symbol, Unalome…”. Let’s be very clear. It is not “traditionally” a symbol – it is a Buddhist symbol. Not traditionally, always. There is no other use for it other than Buddhist symbolism. Period.

(Plus, the symbol is an actual graphic shown above, not the name. Are we pretending that the name, Unalome, is the symbol?)

I am also cringing at the suggestion that naming the restaurant after a Buddhist concept has anything to do with the Japanese culture that inspired the menu. Not all Japanese are Buddhist, not all Buddhist are Japanese. And conceptually, Unalome (the symbol) is not a Japanese concept – it is Buddhist.

Can we please not mix and match Asian cultures and religions as we see fit?

As I went back through my photos and notes on this meal, I realized that my experience at Unalome was probably doomed from the start.

“More than just an occasion restaurant, Unalome by Graeme Cheevers is about sharing in the experience with friends and family.”
– blurb on the menu

Not everyone has the blessing or fortune in life to always share great experiences with friends and family. I wasn’t able to have anyone join me for dinner that evening, and 98% of the time I am a solo diner. But this blurb, while trying to be inclusive, missed the mark. The shared experience of Unalome with your friends and family specifically excludes one demographic –

Solo diners, i.e. ME.

“Thank you for joining us on the path to enlightenment.”
– blurb on the menu

By closing the menu blurb with the only reference to the meaning of the Unalome symbol (without explanation), you’ve diminished the symbol and a name to the punch line of your restaurant. When you are thanking me for joining you on this path to enlightenment, are you bowing at me with your hands in a praying position as well?

My dining experience at Unalome has nothing to do with enlightenment.

Sure, some dining experiences can be transcendental – but not this one.

To close, I would not pay 110£ in the future for a meal that left me confused and utterly disappointed, and reeling with twinges of cultural insensitivity.

Do yourself a favor and go around the corner in Finnieston to The Gannet, which is arguably a higher caliber meal in every respect. I haven’t written about my experiences at the Gannet because I’ve been busy this year, but The Gannet is everything that Unalome is currently not.

Or, if you’re looking for other fine dining experiences in Scotland that left outstanding impressions on me, check out:

Inver Restaurants & Rooms – the only Michelin green star awarded restaurant in Scotland!
Kinloch Lodge, award winning and tucked away on the Isle of Skye;
A hidden gem in the Trossachs, Monachyle Mhor;
The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – tasting the land and the sea;
and, coming soon – The Glenturret Lalique – the only whisky distillery with one Michelin Star.

Thank you for reading my unpopular opinion of Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, and a special shout out to the Twitter community for their encouragement to write about my experience!

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All for the love of food in Shetland

Lannie — Fri, 11 Nov 2022 09:31:24 +0000

Places like Shetland move your soul. On a recent trip to Shetland, I found myself immersed in all things that make the place great – the people, the food, and the awe inspiring feeling remote islands evoke in me. If you were ever in need of rejuvenation, Shetland would be the place to bask in the world’s wild glory. While I can’t guarantee it, a visit to Shetland may potentially result in a new appreciation for life you weren’t aware you needed.

As luck would have it, I met a group of foodies earlier this year from Taste of Shetland – the area’s regional food and drink organization. If you can imagine a group of foodies laughing and giggling over food, that was us. Since then, I have been planning a trip to Shetland to visit this unsung food destination to coincide with their annual Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival (held this year on October 22 – 23, 2022). Through the Food & Drink Festival, I reconnected with my friends and made new ones who also love food in Shetland! We spent countless hours talking (and eating) none other than Shetland’s finest produce.

L: Shetland food festival 2022 groupies, plus Chef Nick Nairn;
R: the placemat at No. 88 in Lerwick, showing the best example of proximity of suppliers I’ve ever witnessed.

During most of my stay in Shetland, I was volunteering at the festival, meaning that I only managed to nip away to try a few restaurants while there. In reality, that’s ok – because the food experience in Shetland is not limited to restaurants. Food culture is everywhere!

Outside the festival, the warmth of Shetland hospitality was never far from food (or family at that). Whether it was homemade dinners with Mary and her visiting family at Hayhoull Bed and Breakfast in Bigton, or chatting with Marian Armitage in Scatness over toasty beremeal bannocks fresh oot the oven with rhubarb jam, homemade food was always front and center, along with that jovial warmth Shetlanders seem to exude.

Before I continue, allow me to wax poetic about food tourism for a minute. You all may know that I enjoy experiencing a place through its food traditions. Oftentimes one of the first thing I do when visiting a new place, is go on a food tour. In other food tours I’ve taken, you bounce around a place eating from restaurants, hearing stories of the place and its food, and (maybe) visiting a food producer or a producer’s shop (like a cheesemaker or a cheese shop), sampling foods along the way. While there are no food tours in Shetland, this Scotland foodie was determined to experience Shetland with food at its forefront.

The World Food Travel Association defines food tourism as,

“the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”

And that’s exactly what I was looking for in Shetland.

Below is a short collection of 4 peerie (little) stories, each about a person in Shetland who have a direct impact on Shetland food, and have influenced my perception of food culture.

1. Respect and affection for the food

During the Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival, I was fortunate to attend a “lamb boning” Masterclass with Lauraine Manson from Shetland’s abbatoir (or slaughterhouse). While it was called lamb boning, what it really showcased was how to utilize a single lamb to feed a village.

Lauraine is tall and dressed in all black, besides the pop of color of her red fedora. We were in a red colored room, so actually, she matches the decor. She walked in with a lamb shaped cloth sack slung over her shoulder. As she took us through her life’s experience, Lauraine made thoughtful incisions and intentional cuts to the carcass. Each cut is done with care and respect for the animal whose body she works on.

She speaks a lot about her respect for the animals. You’ll probably never find her with a cleaver hacking away at anything. It’s disrespectful, she reminds us. Those animals gave their lives for your meal – we need to respect that.

Following the deboning, the shape of the carcass no longer resembles an animal, now closer to the meat we are used to handling.

With the meat carefully splayed over the table, Shetland-native and food writer Marian Armitage steps up. Armed with a simple concoction of couscous, breadcrumbs, apricots and parsley, Marian spreads the stuffing over the lamb. “There’s no accurate quantity [for the stuffing],” Marian says, and Lauraine agrees that there’s no need for that. But don’t forget a twist of the pepper grinder, some of Shetland’s very own sea salt, and maybe some extra cumin for good measure. With a ball of twine, Lauraine and Marian come together to tightly roll the lamb and tie it, ready to roast.

Lamb would have been prepared that way for large family gatherings or village weddings. Done this way, everyone would get a bit of meat, and the stuffing (infused with all the flavors from the lamb) would take care of the rest.

Unfortunately, they didn’t cook the lamb at the food and drink festival. Earlier in the year, Lauraine and Marian did the demonstration (and cooked the lamb) for the 2022 Royal Highland Show. And I bet it smelled and tasted like no other!

2. Food tourism in Shetland – a visit to Garths Croft Bressay

Through my research on food tourism in Shetland, I found Garth’s Croft – a sustainable agricultural holding, run by Chris Dyer, focusing on traditional and different heritage breeds of sheep, pigs and poultry. Shortlisted for the 2022 Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Food Tourism, Chris offers tours of his croft and around local Bressay. He also offers a variety of bespoke tours focusing on history and heritage of the surrounding areas.

Bressay is located a quick 7 minute ferry from the Lerwick pier on Mainland Shetland.

Most of the visitors to Garth’s Croft are “fiber community” enthusiasts – people who love wool and knitting. Thanks to the internet, the undyed fleeces from his heritage Shetland sheep are sent from one far corner of the world to another. The magic of the internet also gives Chris an avenue to offer Zoom tours of the croft. It seems to work well, considering Shetland’s remote location and the effort involved in visiting.

I don’t think Chris sees himself as being part of “food tourism”. I can see the direct connection funnily enough, but as a trained archaeologist and historian who runs a sustainable agricultural holding… he needs a little convincing. I think that’s part of his humility though, for being recognized and nominated in a tourism category he never saw himself as part of.

Food tourism, agritourism, ecotourism – call it what you want. At the end of the day, my experience with Chris from Garth’s Croft is hands down one of the best tourism experiences I’ve ever had.
– Lannie, extremely opinionated travel extraordinaire

Croft is not a word that gets used often outside of Scotland, and to be fair, I wasn’t entirely sure about the nuances of what a croft includes. A “croft” is defined by the Oxford dictionary as:

a small rented farm, especially one in Scotland,
comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house (the croft house), and
with a right of pasturage held in common with other such farms.

Traditionally, crofting brings us back to subsistence farming – raising livestock and growing crops intended to feed you and your family, normally without surplus. Nowadays, most crofters aren’t practicing subsistence farming only. That being said, Chris only raises enough livestock that he himself can manage. Turns out it’s a lot, but still.

The sheep interrupt us to grab a cuddle from Chris, or so it seems. In actuality, Dinky is coming around to eat some of the feed Chris has in his hands. Dinky, who was the runt of the litter, is “special”, Chris says, originally needing to be bottle fed at birth. It’s amusing watching the colorful sheep playfully vying for his attention. I watch in silence, smiling at the incredible detail I just witnessed – Chris giving Dinky a little affectionate scratch on the head, as Dinky eagerly eats everything out of his other hand.

When Chris began crofting, his motivation had less to do with raising sheep to feed and clothe the masses and more with bringing the heritage of the area back to the forefront. To explain, what drives Chris is that deep connection to the land. For the archaeologist and historian, it’s less about what breeds can maximize your yields at the sheep sales, but more – what breeds are traditional to this land? What breeds can we bring back to this land?

And so he set out repurposing his croft, as a tribute to the old ways, while blending it with new, sustainable practices. Building the first drystone square enclosure on Shetland in 1,000 years, Chris sectioned off a “plantiecrub” or a traditional kale yard next to the croft house. Yes, Chris is actually one of very few drystone masons on Shetland as well, mending the walls that snake around Bressay, neighboring Noss, and mainland Shetland.

Watch this video on YouTube.

(This is a great croft tour video on YouTube that Chris made.
Let’s just blame Shetland’s weather for me not taking as many photos or videos that day I was in Bressay.)

Back to the kale yard. Historically, that’s what it did – it grew kale, potatoes (taaties / tatties), and other root vegetables. Kale has been in Shetland since, at least, the 17^th century. The drystone walls provide some cover to Shetland’s harsh weathers – but that’s ok, kale seems to thrive in the tumultuous weather. Back in the day, the kale would be in the enclosure with the family’s own “hoose taaties”. Hoose taaties are… potatoes for the “hoose” (house).

Chris is proud that the croft can thrive with zero artificial fertilizer, preferring to use a variety of heritage pigs to naturally plow and fertizile plots of land to render it arable. To supplement the kale yard and to provide weather cover for other crops, there is the polycrub greenhouse – made from recycled salmon cages. Inside, the polycrub houses the croft’s singular apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, along with other greens and produce hidden away from Shetland’s harsh weather. I say singular fruit trees, because that’s part of Chris’ mentality, isn’t it? He doesn’t need an orchard full of apple trees, the one is enough to feed him and his family, with some left for the Bressay community.

Garth’s Croft is an exciting blend of old and new, going back to the days before globalization and mass production, using the land to feed and clothe your family unit. For us travelers and dreamers, a visit to Garth’s Croft makes us ponder our own life and its excesses. While few of us will do what Chris did, and move to a remote corner of the world to live off the land, there is a genuine admiration and awe of those who do. But to be able to not only live, but thrive in such an environment – it’s an extraordinary thing and takes an extraordinary person to do so.

To bring it back to food and food tourism and Garth’s Croft… While I haven’t outright said just yet, you as my reader must know that all the livestock in the world will end up on someone’s table at some point in time. This is true in both mass production and small scale subsistence farming. And while we are looking at beautiful heritage sheep with colorful wool or pigs happily burrowing for worms, their purpose in the end is to feed us.

Although I never tasted any of the various meat products or fresh produce from Garth’s Croft, I have a feeling that all the thoughtful care and attention Chris pays would certainly resonate in the end-product. Have you heard the myth of Kobe beef in Japan? With its world famous, gorgeously marbled meats, true or not, the cows are said to regularly listen to Mozart and given massages. While the sheep from Garth’s Croft don’t listen to Mozart (that I know of!) and unfortunately get subjected to somewhat miserable Shetland weather, they appear to have an extremely fun-loving and sustainable environment to live in.

Sheep sales in Lerwick, photo by Chris at Garth’s Croft

The Shetland agricultural community thrives on sheep. Whether that’s for Shetland’s thick “ganseys” (sweaters or jumpers for the non-Shetland speakers), to sell to mainland farmers, or for purchase and slaughter in Shetland, the agricultural community resolves around sheep and their sales. Lamb, born in the spring, take about 6 months to grow and mature, and are ready by the fall.

The sheep sales in Shetland run between August to November, from 2-3 times a week. 3-4,000 sheep are sold each time, with Chris and Lauraine being critical components to and daily fixtures at the sales. The sheep sales are the lifeblood of the agricultural community in Shetland. Chris invited me to one of the sales, and I would have loved to attend if I weren’t so busy with the festival. But, always save something for next time!

People like Lauraine and Chris are critical contributions to the sheep industry on Shetland. Their humane and respectful treatment of animals and committment to sustainable farming practices must have a direct impact on the taste of the food – it’s inevitable. The excitement of honest, humane food practices and the emphasis on traditional values brought me to Shetland to experience the taste of Shetland in person.

It was this complex, yet simple sustainable crofting approach to life and food production that I sought out in my travels to Shetland. And from that search, I found Garth’s Croft on Bressay.

* Other Heritage Tours with Garth’s Croft

Normally, visits to Garth’s Croft are combined with a trip to the Bressay Heritage Centre and Speldiburn Cafe, but alas – it was the dreaded Monday in off-season Scotland, where almost everything is closed. But don’t let that stop you – it didn’t hinder my experience with Chris that day. Following the morning at the croft, in the most torrential weather conditions, we set out in Bressay to explore croft ruins and an Iron Age broch.

Later on in the week, I spent a second day with Chris, almost entirely unrelated to food. We went up through mainland Shetland to Yell (via another ferry) and onto Unst (via ferry), to the UK’s most northern part – basking in its rugged beauty and history dotting the land.

From the remains of Viking longhouses in Sandwick to the construction site of its new space port (space port? I know, right?!!), Chris’ enthusiasm for the land and its history was infectious. Because you can only plan so much with island life, a serendipitous missing of a ferry led us to exploring the spectacular Breckon Sands beach in Yell.

❤️ Shout out to these good folks on Unst: Final Checkout Café for the delightful white coffee and Skibhoul Bakery for your wonderful baked goods for our picnic.

Even though Viking or military history isn’t my strong suit, there are so many memorable things about that day. I don’t know if it was the wild remoteness that hypnotized me, the picnic inside a (replica) Viking longhouse (I love a good picnic), or the fact that we were the two most northern people in all of the UK that day… it was windy and rainy at parts, but overall, filled with wonder and amazement.

More to come on this later!

3. Hospitality and Food in Shetland

During my time in Shetland, I was fortunate enough to be able to spend time with people and their families – a far cry from your average tourist experience. I wanted to share some of the warm memories centered around food that my hosts and their families left with me.

* With Mary in Bigton

There’s nothing like a freak internet and mobile blackout to bring people together. The morning that I arrived on Shetland, unbeknownst to me, there was a blackout of all internet and cell services. Everything (digital) came to a halt. Luckily, people in the villages of rural Scotland are used to walking over to their neighbors for a blether. And in the village of Bigton, there was a lot of folks popping into Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast every so often to say hi to Mary (my hostess) and have a blether about the blackout.

Mary, hostess extraordinaire, judging this years Best Bangers in Shetland competition

Through the course of the week on Shetland, I met and chatted and dined with Mary’s: daughter, granddaughter, niece, sisters, and other relatives that I met in a blur. It was so fun hear them spiritedly catch up with each other, in the Shetland dialect, translated at times for my benefit. And as someone who works abroad for most of the year, it tugged at my heart strings for the family not near me.

What lovely family moments, chatting away over a roasting peat fire, often talking and laughing well into the night.

Before I ran off to the ferry, I sat down for one last meal with Mary, her daughter, and granddaughter. A simple vegetable soup with lamb. As Mary’s daughter explained to her daughter, “Granny’s mum made this soup for me and now granny is now making this soup for you.” And just like that, I was brought into the fold of Mary’s mothers’ vegetable soup with lamb, keeping me warm as I left Shetland.

* Scatness with Marian

If ever there were any singular person who is Shetland food’s greatest ambassador and quintessential expert, that would be Marian Armitage.

Marian, a local Shetlander who now splits her time between London and Shetland, dreamt of being a cookery school teacher at age 12. Now, with two books out, she is the go-to-resource on Shetland’s food and traditional recipes.

I spent my last morning in Shetland in the village of Scatness with Marian. When I walked into her kitchen, a charming throwback to country kitchens, it felt cozy, adorable, and oddly familiar. A quick glance to the stack of cooking books on the table revealed Marian’s first book – Shetland Food and Cooking – with her iconic kitchen immortalized on the cover.

That morning, Marian was expecting her old neighbors from Lerwick to stop by, and set about to bake some fresh beremeal bannocks for her guests. By the time I arrived, they were just coming out of the oven. Perfect timing, I love a freshly baked good.

There’s something about the smells of a kitchen that’s just baked something fresh, isn’t there?

She instinctively grabs a bannock, slathers some Shetland butter on it, and asks me to taste it. “Is it done?” she asks. Of course the bannocks are done, and absolutely perfect from my perspective. Warm and thick, with deliciously melted butter dripping off the edges. “We’ll have it with some rhubarb jam in a minute.” (homemade, obviously)

As we walk into the conservatory overlooking the wild sea, we reminisce about Orkney and our visit to Barony Mill, where the beremeal flour she’s using was milled. Bere is an ancient barley, which dates back to the 8th century. A darker grain, and slightly bitter – making the bannocks a hearty affair. Like Shetland, I suppose.

Marian and I spoke at length about her love of Shetland and its food traditions, and the deep drive she has to share it with people. I didn’t realize the depths of that passion at the time, but I do now. I get it. As she so beautifully describes in her first book:

“What is special about Shetland is the people who live there and their relationship and interaction with the surrounding sea and land. They are interesting, interested, unique, skilled and outward thinking. They are influenced by the past and in many instances the old ways.”
– Marian Armitage, from Shetland Food and Cooking.

Marian Armitage in her element –
teaching people about the tasty joys of Shetland.

But it’s the strength of the relationships that Shetlanders have with each other too, that enhances the experience with food. And in all honesty, the bannocks and rhubarb jam tasted better with the company of Marian, Marian’s husband, James, her old neighbor from Lerwick, and his friend.

And once again, the familiar embrace of Shetland warmth and hospitality and food.

4. Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you all can see, this was a very moving trip for me. The connection between the food, the land, the people, the sea, and the animals is so thoughtful and vibrant, and really, such an exciting thing to experience. I really wasn’t prepared for all the ways that Shetland’s food opened my eyes into their world. Aside from the taste of the food itself, no regional cuisine has given me so much to think about.

But isn’t that what travel is supposed to do for us? Give us a moment to pause, reflect, and consider a different way of life? I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that with globalization and mass production, it’s simply easier (and unfortunately cheaper) to just go to the grocery store to buy your clementines from Spain or your pears from Chile. Many people don’t have easy access to farm-to-table or local produce options.

But that being said, this is a food and travel blog. I write this in hopes of influencing conscious decisions about food choices when you travel:

Intentional support of local businesses.
Seeking out ethical and sustainable businesses.
Finding experiences that go beyond the norm.
Meeting and embracing the local community.

Those are the things that fill your heart with memories after you return.

I’m reminded of an Anthony Bourdain quote,

“Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that were charming and interesting and intoxicating to me. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.“

And with that, I sincerely thank Shetland for the perfect meal it served me.

5. Shetland Post Resources

Chris from Garth’s Croft on Bressay – the reluctant food tourism hero of Bressay, promoting heritage and sustainable agriculture in Shetland;

Where I stayed in Shetland: Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast in Bigton – 25 minutes drive from Lerwick and right next to St. Ninian’s Isle. I think you know I had an absolutely wonderful stay here!

Marian Armitage’s Shetland books – Food Made in Shetland (just released in 2022!) and Shetland Food and Cooking. If you’re wanting to learn more about the food, these books from Marian are essential for any foodie and home cook! They’re filled with traditional Shetland recipes and great photos to salivate over.

Getting to Shetland by Air

There are regular direct flights to Sumburgh Airport on Loganair from:

Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Kirkwall (Orkney) in Scotland;
London City and Manchester in England;
Bergen, Norway, in the summer.

Getting to Shetland by Ferry

Take the 12-14 hour overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. On M, W, F, the ferry also stops in Orkney, so there’s an extra 2 hours for all the Orkney passengers and goods to join / disembark.

Most Shetlanders think the “pods” on the ship are miserable for such a long sailing. Though pricey, getting a room is highly recommended!

For those who get sea sick… off season North Sea overnight ferries are not your friend!

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All the Food Tours you can imagine

Lannie — Sun, 05 Jul 2020 06:00:00 +0000

My dear readers may not know this, but my Twitter #TravelTribe friends know me as someone who posts about food and food tours, pretty much all the time. My blog name, in fact, does suggest this – did you ever notice how Food comes before Travel in the title?

While travel fuels my curiousity, food literally fuels life.

I realized recently that I have in fact taken many, many food tours. I review some of them in lots of detail on my blog already. But I decided this would be a running short intro of all the food tours I’ve taken, and some that my Twitter friends have taken. Food tours are an amazing way to be introduced to a new culture or place. But not only that, if you take a food tour early in your trip, you’ll automatically get ideas for meals during your stay! (win!)

This post will be organized by location, so feel free to use the Table of Contents below to pick and choose whichever one you’d like. (Click to expand the Table of Contents.)

Each post will include:

photos,
a brief description,
adult prices verified at the time of writing,
my/our thoughts,
a website for booking.

Two food tours are *free* (!!), denoted by * in the Table of Contents. And, several even contain *discount codes* for future bookings, denoted by ** in the Table of Contents.

This blog and its contributors do not receive commissions for the tours booked via this post. This post is created exclusively to introduce the reader to food tours, as well as promote small business during the time of covid.

So, without further ado… I bring you, all the food tours you can imagine.

1. North America

1.1 Bahamas

1.1.1 Nassau

by Donna from Curious Donna

Just say “Nassau, Bahamas” and immediately, the turquoise ocean comes to mind. But there’s so much more to it than its pristine beaches. Consider a food tasting and cultural walking tour with Tru Bahamian Food Tours. You’ll get a good grasp of traditional Bahamian food and drinks as well as the stories behind them. You might even get the chance to meet the owners of the local establishments.

During the four-hour tour, the knowledgeable guide will take you on a mile-long walk to important sites, provide fascinating historical background, and share helpful tips. Along the way, you’ll find several vibrant colored buildings and eye-catching details around downtown Nassau.

The tour’s six stops include:

Bahamian Cookin’ Restaurant – here you’ll taste the traditional steamed chicken, peas n’ rice, Bahamian mac n’ cheese, banana plantains, and conch fritters. From this restaurant, you’ll get a glimpse of the Central Bank of the Bahamas and the historic two-century old Balcony House.
Towne Hotel – a downtown inn dressed up in eclectic décor and is pure eye candy just like its bar and restaurant called Talking Stick. Here, you’ll meet the resident blue macaw named Max while you sip on the classic Planters Punch.
Graycliff Chocolatier – renowned for its chocolate factory, you’ll be able to sample some elegantly handcrafted chocolates here.
The Drawbridge – an adorable gelateria and patisserie where you’ll be treated to refreshing gelato.
Athena Café & Bar – where you’ll be served authentic Greek salad and a cup of tasty conch chowder reminiscent of Manhattan clam chowder. By the way, make sure to pronounce conch as “konk” (rhymes with “honk”).
Tortuga Rum Cakes – at this last stop, you can buy some of the best-selling original Caribbean rum-infused cake to bring home.

For more information, visit TruBahamian Food Tours.
Eat, Drink, and Discover Authentic Nassau, Bahamas
Cost: $69 USD adults + 12% tax
Expert tip: By the way, this tour is held rain or shine! If it does rain, the tour guide is prepared to hand you a rain poncho.

1.2 Canada

1.2.1 Montreal

Finding activities to do in the middle of winter can sometimes be a challenge. But thank goodness for Local Montreal Food Tours! So bundle up and show up hungry!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

Poutine with 2 different kinds of cheese curds and Portuguese sausage
Smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel
Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal

For more information, visit Local Montreal Food Tours.
Cost: Adult $64.99 CAD | $48.99 USD

1.2.2 Toronto

by Lisa from Following the Rivera

Of all the food tours I’ve joined on my travels, there’s one in particular that stands out. The Culinary Adventure Co. St. Lawrence Market food tour dishes up delicious local bites as well as the local history.

St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, Canada, consistently features as one of the world’s best food markets. And, unlike doing a self-guided tour as I did in Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem, I wanted to learn from an expert.

Our expert, came in the form of a British-born expat called Ian. He greeted us with a warm smile and a freshly baked pain au chocolat. There were just 3 people in the group, myself and a couple from Chicago. Call it luck, or my greediness, but I was grateful for a small size group.

Before the actual eating began, Ian took us around the local vicinity, providing us a brief history lesson. Taking us to St James Cathedral and the park, it was a great introduction for a first-time visitor. It was then back to the market for the main event.

Our first stop was the Carousel Bakery, a place famous for one thing: peameal bacon rolls. A boneless cut of back bacon, wet cured and then rolled in cornmeal, it’s popular among Torontonians. The warm rolls are filled with generous slices of the bacon, and completed with plenty of melted cheese.

Other highlights included melt-in-the-mouth Portuguese pastel de natas, Polish pierogis and chocolate dipped strawberries.

By the end of the tour, we were seriously stuffed though satisfied. Better yet, we were able to take home any of the leftover food to minimise any waste.

The tour lasted around 3 hours and was excellent value for money. If Toronto is on your list of places to visit in the future, do your palate a favour and add the Culinary Adventure Co. to your itinerary.

For more information, visit The Culinary Adventure Co.
St. Lawrence Market Food Tour
Cost: Adult $76 CAD | $56 USD, Seniors & Children (6 – 12) $71 CAD | $52 USD

1.3 Mexico

1.3.1 Playa del Carmen **

by Chris from 48 Hours Somewhere

On a recent visit to Mexico, we took the opportunity to sample local cuisine through an organised Taco Tour. A quick hop in a minibus from our hotel in Akumal to Playa del Carmen. The tour was run through Cancun Adventures and we were advised to skip lunch, advice I’m glad we took!

To start this little food adventure, we were taken to a small bar and given a brief history of how true Cochinita Pibil was made – whole suckling pig roasted with the juice of Seville oranges. We were also given the opportunity to make our own tortillas with a tortilla press. We drank a nice Mexican beer, while we watched everyone else’s efforts. The participation events continued as we split into teams to make a salsa against the clock. Then it was time for what we were there for… Taco’s. The Cochinita Pibil was served with some tortilla and the salsa we just made. There was enough for 2 or 3 each and quickly devoured by everyone. To finish off the visit a taste of traditional Mexican beverage, Pulque.

Next stop was a local market stall and an introduction of local fruits and vegetables, before jumping back in the minibus. After a quick drive across town, we enjoyed an Al Pastor Taco – sliced spit roasted pork served with pineapple. Before tasting, we played a game where you tried to catch the pineapple as it was sliced and flicked of the spit! With this tasting, there was enough for 2 or 3 tacos each, which we happily washed down with a local beer.

Finally, for the traditional tacos, we went to Don Sirloin’s for Carne Asada, or beef steak tacos. No fun and games this time, but another thoroughly enjoyable taco.

It was probably a good place to end the evening as I think everyone was totally stuffed. But one final surprise was a walk down the road to enjoy a “savoury taco” to finish the night off – I won’t spoil it for those who want to find out but I will say everyone managed to find room!

For more information, visit Cancun Adventures.
The Taco Tour
Currently, there is an automatic 40% discount on bookings.
Normal cost: $99 USD per person
Cost with current promotion: $59.40 USD per person

1.4 United States

1.4.1 New York City

by Stefan from BerkeleySquareBarbarian

During my last visit to NYC I joined the 3-hour Tenements, Tales, and Tastes Tour run by Urban Adventures. The tour kicks off in Downtown Manhattan, then meanders through China Town and Little Italy towards the Lower East Side. Our friendly, knowledgeable guide Bruce turned out to be a published travel writer.

After a quick stop in the notorious Five Points neighbourhood portrayed in “Gangs of New York”, our first ‘proper’ stop was at the non-descript Chinese snack bar Fried Dumpling in a side street on the edge of China Town. We were served some of the tastiest dumplings we’ve had in a long while.

A few minutes later we were on our way through the streets of China Town towards Little Italy, zigzagging our way past street food stalls and a few tiny street markets. We learned how many of the poor immigrants’ dishes were the result of coping with shortages. The cuts used for the absolutely amazing pastrami at Katz’s Delicatessen’s, for example, would be virtually inedible if it weren’t for the complex preparation processes.

Our next food stop was at America’s oldest cheese shop: Alleva Dairy, established in 1892. The master cheese maker behind the counter explained the delicate mozzarella production process, while an assistant offered us each a large ball of mozzarella and some fine cured ham. The pride our host held for his produce was infectious.

We stopped at various other places, until we arrived at Yonah Schimmel Knishery, founded in 1910, probably my favourite stop of the tour. This eatery just has so much character! Oh.. and the knishes!!

Sitting down for the first time, all of us started chatting with each other. We continued the conversations on the short walk over to Loreley Beer Garden, where the tour finished with some German pretzels.

For more information visit, New York City Urban Adventures.
Tenements, Tales, and Tastes
Cost: $79 USD

1.4.2 Seattle

It’s literally impossible to visit Seattle without a trip to Pike Place Market. One of the oldest continuously operating farmers markets in the US (opened in 1907), Pike Place overlooks Elliott Bay in Seattle. While Savor Seattle offers several different food tours, I opted for the VIP Early Access Tour, to Pike Place Market. The VIP Early Access Tour is limited to 12 people, and is held earlier in the day, so you can avoid tourists crowds.

One of the things I appreciated most about the tour, was its recognition of the history of Pike Place. Prior to World War II, as much as 80% of the vendors were Japanese-American farmers selling their produce. Following Executive Order 9066 issued by President Roosevelt, Japanese-Americans were forcibly relocated to internment camps. In a matter of days, their homes, farms, and businesses were abandoned. Following the war, many Japanese-Americans did not return to their original home. Today, in Pike Place, there are no Japanese-American vendors.

panel in Pike Place honoring Japanese-American farmers

Going back to the tour itself, you’ll visit the famous Honest Biscuits and pair it with some local Seattle coffee (for those coffee enthusiasts!). After all, not only is Seattle home to Starbucks’ first location (which you’ll see), but it is famous for coffee roasting and coffee supply chain management. Little known fact! Let’s not get too carried away with coffee – you’ll also try out local specialties like maple bacon donuts (yummmm) and hot smoked salmon (super yummm). And, if you’re feeling adventurous, you could catch a flying fish!

For more information, visit Savor Seattle Tours.
VIP Early Access Tour
Cost: $55.99 USD (+$3 Fri-Sun)

2. Asia

2.1 Hong Kong

by Katie from What’s Katie Doing?

I did the After Dark Food Crawl in May 2018 with Hong Kong Food Crawlers. Led by owner and guide Ashley, a HK local who has also guided Jon Hamm and Richard Ayoade on Channel 4’s Travel Man, we were in for a local eating treat! The tour visits 5 different food stops, starting with a very local market bustling with street food stalls.

We started off with some grilled meats on a stick, followed by Taiwanese savoury pancakes, while learning more about the culture between Hong Kong and Taiwan. Next up, a great Hainanese chicken rice place! This classic dish is poached chicken served with rice, chili sauce and cucumber garnish. Whilst it’s associated mostly with being a Singaporean national dish, there is a version in most Asian countries with diaspora from Hainan in Southern China.

We then went sweet with a Hong Kong classic – egg waffles, from a shop that has been run by the same family since the 1950’s. We ate these waffles traditional style, with peanut butter, condensed milk and crunchy peanuts – divine!

Then via the Metro, onto Causeway Bay! Here we visited a snake specialty restaurant. We had Cantonese roasted meat, a nourishing Chinese bone broth and there was snake soup for those who dared… (and also snake shots!)

We rounded off the evening with soft serve ice cream, including matcha and black sesame flavours. Here you would normally part ways from Ashley, however we were all up for a drink, so Ashley took us to a local mezcal bar that she normally visits on her Hidden Bar Crawl. I was impressed to find a mezcal that used similar botanicals to my favourite drink = gin.

For more information, visit Hong Kong Food Crawlers
After Dark Food Crawl
Cost: $90 USD

2.2 Japan

2.2.1 Osaka

If you’re looking for the freshest sushi and sashimi you can find on a food tour, look no further than All Star Osaka and their special foodies tour. It’s a private tour, so costs are a little bit higher. Since it’s a private tour, you can select what your main course will be – we chose sushi!

Our tour started in the Tsuruhashi market, a fish market normally only a wholesale fish market. All Star made special agreements with some of the vendors to allow us tastings of traditional japanese pickled foods, nato (fermented bean paste), super fresh tuna, sea urchin, octopus, and freshly ground wasabi! All the seafood were only caught earlier that day in Osaka Bay! The sushi restaurant was hidden in the nooks and crannies of the fish market and only fit less than 10 customers. It’s known for its “dancing shrimp” whose tail flickers to prove its freshness. (If this isn’t your thing, maybe the udon or takoyaki main “tracks” would be better for you!)

There were other stops in Shinsekai, but I won’t give it all away. We ended the tour in Dotonburi, with a sake tasting. If you’re not completely full by then, Dotonburi is a great place to sample local foods from street vendors too!

For more information visit All Star Osaka.
Cost: 20,000 JPY | $182 USD for 1 person;
15,000 JPY | $137 USD, per person for 2 people.

2.3 Malaysia

2.3.1 Kuala Lumpur **

by Helen from Differentville

The man standing behind the hot plate in the middle of the street outside a shopping mall might not look like he’s producing one of Kuala Lumpur’s must-try dishes, but one bite through the crispy batter into the perfectly sweet banana and you can see why the Banana Fritter Man is a must stop on this food tour that covers the diverse cuisine of Kuala Lumpur.

You meet in trendy Bangsar, then wander through the backstreets and alleys to explore the food-filled areas of Brickfields and Little India. On the way you visit the flower market, try sticky Indian sweets and an Indian buffet chosen by the stall holder from his best dishes of the day. After a visit to the small Sam Kow Tong Temple, you stop for cendol – shaved ice topped with creamy milk – and the famous banana fritter and just when you think this means the tour is done, you hop on the train to Chinatown for even more food!

I’d been to KL about six times before I took this tour, and has tried quite a lot of fun things for foodies in the city, but I tried foods on it, I’d never had before simply because I just didn’t know where was good to try them. I do now.

For more information, visit Food Tour Malaysia.
Kuala Lumpur Walk Tour
Cost: $59 USD
Cost after discount code below: $44.25 USD

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2.3.2 Penang

by Tiffany from Epicurean Expats

Tiffany has written about this tour, as well! Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

Penang’s capital city of Georgetown is a unique cosmopolitan playground for foodies. For centuries, this important trade port has been the home for Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian cultures. If you want to go to just one place to taste all these amazing cuisines, Georgetown is the place.

Learning about the different cultures of Penang through a book just isn’t the same. To see it, taste it, and hear about it from a local is so much more personal and rewarding. The neighborhoods are dominated by one culture or another and it’s interesting to see the different architectures or observe food prepared side by side by people with different heritages.

My husband and I found A Taste of Penang: Small Group Tour and we highly recommend them. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable on the food cultures and history of Georgetown. Our tour began with a Malaysian breakfast of Nasi Lemak, then through the wet market and hawker stands of a Chinese neighborhood where we sampled nutmeg juice, Char Koay Kak and Singapore Laksa. We strolled down 5^th Avenue to admire the Art Deco shophouses, visit a Chinese pharmacy and eat at a 100-year-old Indian restaurant. We shared Nasi Kondar and Murtabak, two excellent Indian dishes. We finished the tour through a Malaysian street market and small cafe where we each had a bowl of spicy Asam Laksa and Cendol for dessert.

This was one of our most memorable food tours, and we learned much more about the culture and cuisines than we ever expected. We feel more curious to know more about the people and cultures that live there, how they live together, what influences each have on the other, and most especially, what other great dishes are out there that we need to try.

For more information, visit A Taste of Penang.
Cost: $47 GBP | $59 USD

2.4 Myanmar

2.4.1 Yangon **

I learned a very valuable lesson, while taking the Yangon Street Snacks tour. Go on a food tour with an empty stomach!

During my first trip to Myanmar in 2017, I stayed in Yangon only for one day. I spent most of the day sightseeing and trying local foods. To understand the food culture in many Asian countries, one needs to immerse themselves in the culture of street food. Yangon is no different. Through the Street Snacks Tour, you’ll walk through downtown Yangon and try up to 8 different street snacks! 8! See what I mean about an empty stomach?

Something I bet you didn’t realize is the prominence of chickpeas in Burmese food. You’ll try a few different varieties, plus some delicious fried fritters and delicious Shan noodles and Chinese baos. You’ll top it off with a delicious dessert drink – the falooda! A dessert drink typical of South Asia, the Burmese Falooda typically is rose flavored and has a large combination of sago, egg pudding, ice cream, rice noodles, and jelly.

See what I mean by, go on an empty stomach?

For more information visit Yangon Food Tours. If you’re looking for a Manadalay Food Tour, visit their sister company, here!

Costs range from $27 USD to $75 USD, depending on the tour, before discount!

Exclusive discount for blog readers:
5% for 1-2 travelers,
10% for 3-4 travelers.
Use discount code 5%YFTviaLannie for 1-2 persons and 10%YFTviaLannie for 3-4 persons.
Valid for Yangon Food Tours, Manadalay Food Tours, and their bamboo bike and motorbike tours.

2.5 Taiwan

2.5.1 Taipei **

by Helen from Differentville

If you want try pretty much all of the foods Taiwan is known for in one morning this tour through the backstreets of upmarket Xinyi is the one to pick.

You start sampling fruits and scallion bread at the local market. Then hit your first sit down stop for the fluffy meat-filled buns known as bao. They might be popular everywhere now, but this is them done right, clouds of steam billowing out from the baskets as person after person stops by to grab one for breakfast.

Next, it’s time to try one of the most unusual things to do in Taipei, chewing betel nut. This stimulant is sold in stalls over Taipei and it’s quite the experience causing your heart to race. And, just as it slows back down, you enter the stinky tofu restaurant. Does it taste as bad as it smells? Are you brave enough to find out?

More stops follow then just when you’re not sure you can fit in any more you get to try dumplings, learning how to slurp out the soup that makes Taiwanese dumplings famous around the world. you’ll also visit the place the locals go to try them rather than the more touristy Din Tai Fung!

There’s a reason this tour is called the Iconic Food Tour, it really does cover all the most famous foods in Taipei – and also shows you where to get the best pick of iconic Taipei 101. Do this on your first morning in the city and you’ll get a real feel for what Taipei’s food scene is all about. Take notes on the locations though as the portions are small and you’ll want to go back to at least one of the stops for more!

For more information, visit Taipei Eats
Iconic Food Tour
Cost: $70 USD
Cost after discount below: $63 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
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2.6 Thailand

2.6.1 Hua Hin **

For those who don’t know, I’ve lived in Thailand, traveled there for work, and visited for fun several times. Thailand is often called the “land of smiles” – which is one of the reason I love it so much! Well that, and not to mention the food! Oh, the food!

The last time I was in Thailand, I visited Hua Hin – original beach resort town. Starting out as a sleepy fishing village, by the 1920s, it was a favorite summer spot for Thai nobility. Located about 150 km (or 3-4 hours drive) from Bangkok, it’s the perfect beachy getaway. For those wanting to make a side trip from Bangkok, here are all the ways you can make that trip!

Back to the food! I found Feast Thailand, and of the several food tours they offer, I chose their Eat like a Local tour without hesitation. We started out our day with Guay Tiaw (noodle soups), served in coconut shell bowls to keep it piping hot. Three soups – two types of tom yum (one with coconut milk and one without) and a rich boat noodle soup (with pork meatballs, pork liver, a sprinkle of pork rinds on top!). Eating like a local isn’t for the faint hearted or (as I would later learn) for those who can’t handle the heat!

From then, we went on to try some colorful dumplings or Gui Chai. Say the word dumpling, and I’m already salivating! The dumplings ranged in flavor from (my dumpling favorite) chives, to pumpkin, to taro, among others! Served with a dipping sauce made of soy sauce, with a huge kick!

These first two courses were my absolute favorite, but it didn’t stop there! There was a visit to an outdoor food market, where we stopped at stalls eating expertly fried chicken and delicious satay. Top it all off with some Thai curries – Southern style Gaeng Kiew Wan, Green Curry and Gaeng Khua Prik Sii Khon Muu which is a pork rib curry. Top it off with the herb most commonly eaten with southern food – Maeng Luk or Lemon Basil!

I’ve said this before about other food tours, but come hungry! This tour is sure to keep you satisfied. And remember, if you want to eat like a local, that means you’re keen to try the local heat level! Mouth on fire! but in a good way!

For more information, visit Feast Thailand.
Eat like a Local
Cost: 1,350 THB | $43 USD
Cost after discount code below: 1,215 THB | $39 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code LANNIETRAVELS
Valid until 30 June 2021

2.7 Vietnam

2.7.1 Hanoi*

I delighted in the culinary wonders of Vietnam, with Hanoi Kids. Hanoi Kids employs local university students to give tours of the city, in exchange for a few hours of English conversation. You can customize the type of tour you’d like – I chose the combination of history and food! So, technically a food tour.

My guide was an enthusiastic college student, who navigated us through the windy, alleyways of Hanoi. Some of my favorites was Bánh cuốn (ground pork and mushrooms, wrapped in rice flour pancakes) and Bun Bo Nam Bo (beef vermicelli salad, common in the South of Vietnam). Both of these dishes were so fresh and light. I loved that they were topped off by fried onions or scallions or peanuts. A perfect crunch to go with it! We topped it off with Hanoi’s famous egg coffee. During a milk shortage in the time of war, whisked egg yolk was used to replace the cream. Don’t be put off by it – it was delicious!

For more information, visit Hanoi Kids.

Although the tour is free, you pay for the food, transportation, and entrance fees for both you and your guide. It still makes it extremely worthwhile. Gratuities are greatly appreciated.

3. Europe

3.1 Bulgaria

3.1.1 Sofia*

By Janina from Stromfield Adventures

Bulgaria isn’t well known for its cuisine and I guess this is one of the reasons we thought a food tour would be a great introduction to our trip. This particular tour had been recommended to us on the twitter grapevine and so we rocked up at the allotted meeting spot on our first afternoon in Sofia.

Our first stop was a patio garden in a restaurant and bread with one cheesy garlic dip and one red pepper dip, these we would find all over Sofia. Second was a more upmarket restaurant where we tasted soft cheese wrapped in courgette and lavender meringues, both delicious in totally different ways.

After this it was wine time and this wine shop sold wine ‘on tap’ for the specific reason of recycling the bottles – you buy one, drink it, bring it back and refill it, genius…. Oh yeah, and the wine (Vrachanski Misket) was fabulous. We followed this up with a stop in a street bakery for a maritsa, a bit like a cross between a doughnut and a churro – tasty!

Lastly we stopped in the Hadjidragana tavern for more dips and Pelin wine which is mixed with Artemisia absinthium during fermentation. The atmosphere in the restaurant was so good we promptly booked it for our evening meal!

Overall, the tour was very tasty and varied, our guide was knowledgeable and we got some history thrown in with our food, we would definitely recommend this experience to others. It was ‘free’ but we thought it deserved €20 each, so that’s what we paid!

For more information, visit Balkan Bites.
Although this tour is free (can you imagine?!), gratuities to your guide would be the right thing to do.

3.2 France

3.2.1 Dijon

Written by Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

Dijon, France offers visitors a rich history, romantic architecture, and an outstanding array of culinary specialties. (You know a city is famous for its food when it has its very own International and Gastronomic Fair every year!) But the best way to experience a sampling of everything Dijon has to offer is by taking a food tour.

The 2+ hour Dijon Market Food & City Tour is a walking tour that hits some of the best highlights of Dijon. Both history buffs and foodies alike will enjoy this tour, which includes iconic sites such as the 13^th Century Church of Notre-Dame of Dijon. Be sure to rub the little owl carving on the corner with your left hand and make a wish!

The tour also takes you to Les Halles – the oldest and largest food market in the city. This is where you can sample some of the local baked goods, cheeses, and other mouth-watering treats.

So what tasty local delights make Dijon special? Well, of course there’s the mustard. But they’re also famous for pain d’epices, or gingerbread cake, and creme de cassis, a black currant liquor.

One of the most interesting food facts we learned was that despite the fact that Dijon mustard was created here in 1856, most of the mustard seed used in local production actually comes from Canada!

For more information, visit Wine and Voyages
Dijon Market Food and City Tour
Cost: 63 EUR | $71 USD

3.3 Iceland

3.3.1 Akureyri / Reykjavik **

If you’re like me, chances are you have no idea what Icelandic food is about. When I first visited northern Iceland to chase the aurora borealis, the delights and complexities of Icelandic food were unknown to me. But I was in for a delicious, eye opening experience!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

Unfortunately, Akureyri Food Walk is no longer operating. However, if you’re in Iceland and want a food tour in Reykjavik, their sister company, the Reykjavik Food Walk is open and taking bookings.
Cost: 13,900 ISK | $101 USD
Cost after discount code below: 12,510 ISK | $91 USD

10% Discount for blog readers:
Use discount code FOODANDFUN

3.4 Ireland

3.4.1 Dublin

I will forever remember this food tour for introducing me to Murphy’s Ice Cream (the best ice cream shop in Ireland!!!) and beginning to cultivate my love of whiskey. But before we get there, let’s talk about the deliciousness and heartiness of traditional Irish food.

The tour starts at Trinity College Dublin. If you have some extra time, I highly recommend taking an hour before the food tour and visiting the Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells. Just for a brief description, the Book of Kells is a gorgeously illustrated manuscript, containing the Four Gospels of the New Testament, from 800 AD. It’s absolutely beautiful and worth the visit before your tour starts.

And now, the food! From the campus of the historical Trinity College, you set off for the first meal of the day – Irish Breakfast. Irish breakfast can’t be complete without some potato cakes and white pudding, served with a spicy tomato relish. White pudding is similar to black pudding, but does not contain blood. The rest of the ingredients, oats, pork, suet, and bread crumbs, are similar. Hearty enough for us to start our journey!

While the common belief is that there are lots of potatoes historically in Irish cuisine, I’m here to say that it’s true. I can’t recall the inner workings as to how or why potato became so important in Irish Cuisine, but it’s safe to say that at one point in time, the average Irishman was eating 40 – 60 potatoes a day. Since it was their absolute main staple, different ways of preparing potatoes emerged.

But not only are potatoes central to traditional Irish cuisine, so is Irish whiskey. We popped on over to the Celtic Whiskey Shop for a whiskey tasting, which included Powers Tyrconnell, Kilbeggan 21 Year old (now discontinued), and The Quiet Man. At the time, I preferred Irish whiskey to scotch (but now that is not the case!)

We rounded out the tour with a visit to the Hairy Lemon, a traditional Irish pub, for some Dublin Coddle (voted best in the city!). Dublin coddle is traditionally a leftover soup, with sausages, carrots, potatoes (of course!), onions and herbs. Perfect for a rainy Irish day!

As if there wasn’t enough food, we ended the day with Leo Burdocks’ smoked cod and chips. Probably the best fish and chips I’ve had! I loved the smoky flavor of the cod, which was different than your regular fish and chips!

If Irish food has piqued your interest, learn all about Irish food!

For more information, visit Secret Food Tours
Cost: 59 EUR | $66 USD

3.5 Italy

3.5.1 Bologna **

by Anda from Travel for a While

Anda has written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

If you’re looking for a proper food tour, you should probably head to Bologna, the official capital of food in Italy, which is saying something! Anyway, a couple of years ago we went on this food tour in Bologna and my mouth is still watering when I think about it.

The tour starts at 10 am and I strongly advise against having a full breakfast before that. First stop, an Italian breakfast-cappuccino, and a croissant.
Then, you’re off to see how traditional homemade pasta is made at a local shop. The most distinctive local pasta is ‘tortellini’, a fresh pasta usually filled with meat.

It’s time to taste some local specialties: Grana Padano cheese, mortadella, cured meat, and aceto balsamico, all from the Emilia-Romagna region.
Next, you have to try some of those tortellini. One of the traditional dishes of Bologna is ‘tortellini in brodo’, a soup with tortellini. Of course, you will try another dish Bologna is famous for, ‘pasta al ragu’, fresh pasta with a slow-cooked meat sauce.

There are a couple more things to try, a slice of pizza, gelato as well as an espresso. The tour is designed for you to see some of the most important landmarks in Bologna, hear some of their stories on also learn some of Bologna’s secrets.

For more information, visit Delicious Bologna.
Cost: 80 EUR | $90 USD
Cost after discount below: 72 EUR | $81 USD
Expert tip: Wear comfortable shoes and show up hungry!

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code TFW10

3.6 Romania

3.6.1 Bucharest

Written by Vanessa from Traveling Ness

In my travels I have become intrigued at how foods and spices are so closely tied to the culture of a country. Food is the gateway to connecting with locals on a deeper level and a bunch of fun. In researching for my trip, I stumbled upon My Secret Romania run by the lovely Gabi and Ioana.

The 3 – 4 hour Garlic Themed Workshop is a mix of Bucharest’s history and culture while dining on traditional Romanian dishes that are all heavily garlic infused. I love anything garlic so I was immediately intrigued as to why Romanians were such big fans of garlic and how it related to superstitions aka vampires…

Normally the Garlic Themed Workshop is held in small groups with either Gabi or Ioana. But as I was visiting in December, I was fortunate enough to have a private garlic themed dinner with Ioana that was one of the best experiences I had in Romania.

Ioana met me at my hotel and we walked to a restaurant with excellent traditional Romanian foods. During the walk she pointed out various points of interest and explained much of Bucharest’s recent history and how life had changed post-communism.

Once we arrived at the restaurant, Ioana order a number of delicious dishes that all had garlic in them. My favorite was the pork sausages and boiled potatoes in pesto sauce. I won’t give away the fascinating details but I was on the edge of my seat with excitement to listen to her stories!

She explained the history of how garlic has become a central part of Romanian culture and why it intersects with practical use, traditions, spirits, and Dracula. I enjoyed sharing a meal with the warmest company and can’t recommend this experience enough.

For more information, visit My Secret Romania
Garlic Themed Culinary Workshop
Cost to be confirmed.

3.7 Scotland

3.7.1 Edinburgh **

Scotland may not be on the map for amazing cuisine, but it is definitely a personal favorite! On my first trip to Scotland, I was happily introduced to Scottish cuisine by Eat Walk Edinburgh on their Old Town and New Town Food Tour. On the tour, we started with deliciously fresh and light Scottish smoked salmon. We gradually moved towards heavy classic, with a whisky pairing – Haggis, Neeps and Tatties! I won’t give it all away, but for those adventurous eaters, try haggis with an open mind! We also tried black pudding with Scottish “comfort food”, paired with a bubbly gin spritzer (not shown).

Sounds like a lot of food? Don’t worry, you walk all around Old Town and New Town in between courses to aide with the digestion. Through the tour, you’ll be regaled with tales on Edinburgh’s interesting, though sometimes macabre history. You’ll walk through the curved and colorful Victoria Street. At the end, you’ll receive a map and some discounts to re-visit some of the delicious stops!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

For more information, visit Eat Walk Edinburgh
Due to covid-19 and social distancing requirements, 2020 tours are only offered as private tours for your specific group.
Costs before discount below:

2020 food tour for 2 people is 79 GBP | $99 USD per person,
- 3 people 75 GBP | $94 USD per person,
- 4 people 71 GBP | $89 USD per person,
- 5 to 8 people 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.
2021 tours costs 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.

Exclusive 5 GPB discount for blog readers:
Use discount code LT5OFF
Valid until June 2021

3.8 Slovenia

3.8.1 Ljubljana

by Steven from the Thorough Tripper

Our time in Ljubljana was short – less than 24 hours. We were in Slovenia for our wedding at nearby Lake Bled. I figured that a food tour would be the best way to cram lots of Ljubljana history, architecture, and cuisine into our brief time there. I knew nothing about Slovene cuisine and wanted to be educated by a local. After all, this was the country we would forever associate with our marriage.

On our nearly 4-hour tour, we meandered through Ljubljana’s compact and beautiful old town, while stopping at various historic locations and restaurants. We sampled 9 different types of traditional Slovene food, often thoughtfully paired with Slovene wine. We also received a general education about the wine-producing regions and types of wine in Slovenia.

Food highlights included eating grilled sardines and squid along the river running through old town. I surprisingly enjoyed the sour turnip soup with millet and pork called Bujta Repa, served with chewy bread and pumpkin seed oil. We ate Idrijski Žlikrofi streetside near a quiet town square in perfect weather. This is a traditional Slovene dish of small potato-filled dumplings. Ours was served with a mushroom sauce.

The tour finished atop the 13-storey “Skyscraper” – the Balkan’s tallest building when it was first constructed in 1933. It’s topped by a restaurant offering 360 degree views across the city. Here we were treated to one of Slovenia’s favorite desserts called Gibanica – a layered pastry with poppy seeds, apples, walnuts, raisins, and cheese.

All in all, a great introduction to a beautiful city and great cuisine.

For more information, visit Roundabout Travel.
Cost: 55 EUR | $62 USD

4. Oceania

4.1 Cook Islands

4.1.1 Rarotonga **

If you’ve found your way to the Cook Islands, and are looking for an amazing way to meet and get to know local Cook Islanders, and you love food, the Progressive Dinner is the thing for you! Through the course of the evening, you eat a 3-course meal at three different peoples houses! Each host shares their story and extends beautiful islander hospitality to you.

It starts off with appetizers nicluding absolutely fresh ika mata and paw paw amid a lush garden. (Don’t know what those are? I suggest you start here for the full intro to Cook Islander foods!) But in brief, ika mata is what most people would think of as poke or ceviche, but with creamy, coconut milk. And a paw paw? Well, that’s just papaya, usually with some grated coconut on top.

Before you get to the main course, you change locations to another person’s house, experiencing a different islander’s warmth and hospitality. The main course obviously has some umu, or meat cooked in an “earth oven”. That night, it was chicken, cooked in the traditional way, with a fire pit of volcanic rocks, dug into the ground, and covered with banana leaves. Let me just tell you, how absolutely delicious chicken from the “earth oven” is!! The umu chicken comes with all sorts of trimmings – noodles, rukau (Cook Islander spinach), some cole slaw, and Cook Islander poke. Cook Islander poke is not to be confused with the ika mata. Poke here is made from the chewy cassava, and is similar in nature to mochi.

You round out the evening at the home of another family, who puts a gracious dessert spread out. Dessert consists mainly of fruits and cakes. All super fresh, all delicious.

By the end of the night, not only are you exceedingly full, but you’re genuinely touched by how welcoming islanders are. You’ve literally been welcomed into the home of three Cook Islander families, and you’re left with that island magic and spirit that they imbue.

For more information, visit Cook Islands Tours
Progressive Dinner – Through Local Homes
Cost: $99 NZD | $64 USD
Cost after discount code below: $89 NZD| $58 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code PDBLOG20

5. Africa

5.1 Mauritius

5.1.1 Port Louis

This tour came recommended from the only other friend that’s visited Mauritius. Basically, that’s all the recommendation I need! The History and Street Tour of Port Louis was one of the most interesting food tours I’ve ever taken! For those who don’t know, Mauritius (and its capital city of Port Louis) is a wonderful melting pot of Chinese, Indian and Muslim immigrants and their legacies. Through the tour, you explore each of these diverse cultures, its food, and their architecture. I was super excited to try 2 different kinds of Mauritian “Chinese” dumplings, called niouk yen (in the pink photos below). Both dumplings are made with chicken, chayote and tapioca flour. But the more “local” variety (on the right), has a rice flour wrapper around it, similar to a shu mai. You all know how much I love my dumplings!

An amazing part of the tour is hidden gems you get access to. Not only do you visit the Jemmah Mosque, but you get to visit some of the secret parts of it. Not only do you visit Chinatown, but also visit a Chinese community center. You also chat with shop owners whose shops have been in their families for 3-4 generations!

For more information, visit My Moris
Cost: 2700 Rupees | $67 USD

Parting Thoughts

If you’ve made it all the way through this post, you must really love the combination of food and travel! I hope you’re able to see how food can genuinely introduce you to a culture, a place, and give you a sense of warmth and comfort, all in one.

As I mentioned before, taking a food tour at the beginning of a trip can give you ideas or recommendations for restaurants or dishes to try again later on. Most of these tours require lots of walking and are done rain or shine. So get on your walking shoes, and bring an umbrella if you need to. But most importantly, go on an empty stomach and get ready to eat great food and learn the culinary culture of a place!

Warm thanks for their collaboration…

(in order from above)

Travel Bloggers

Donna from Curious Donna
Lisa from Following the Rivera
Chris from 48 Hours Somewhere
Stefan from BerkeleySquareBarbarian
Katie from What’s Katie Doing?
Helen from Differentville
Tiffany from Epicurean Expats
Janina from Stromfield Adventures
Darlene from Thirsty Journeys
Anda from Travel for a While
Vanessa from Traveling Ness
Steven from the Thorough Tripper

Food Tours

Food Tour Malaysia – 25% off with discount code: LNXFTM
Yangon Food Tours & Manadalay Food Tours – 5% and 10% off with discount codes 5%YFTviaLannie for 1-2 persons and 10%YFTviaLannie for 3-4 persons
Taipei Eats – 10% off with discount code: LANNIE10
Feast Thailand – 10% off with discount code: LANNIETRAVELS
Reykjavik Food Walk – 10% off with discount code: FOODANDFUN
Delicious Bologna – 10% off with discount code: TFW10
Eat Walk Edinburgh – 5 GBP off with discount code: LT5OFF
Cook Islands Tours – 10% off with discount code: PDBLOG20

If you are a food or travel blogger and want to contribute to this food tour directory OR if you are a food tour operator and would like to collaborate in the future, send me a message and let’s chat!

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