And while I wouldn’t call this a Madrid Food Guide per say, it definitely goes beyond the normal food experiences and highlights some of the extremely cool places to eat in Madrid. So, without further ado, here are some exquisite Madrid food experiences!

1. The Oldest Restaurant in the World – Sobrino de Botín

Let’s start at the oldest restaurant it the world, shall we? It would be rude not to.

Located near Plaza Mayor, Sobrino de Botín is the longest continuously run restaurant in the world (and Guinness World Records holder for oldest restaurant).  Opened in 1725, Restaurante Botin stayed in the Botin family until 1930, when the González family took over. The original González family endured hard times during the Spanish Civil War, narrowly evading a terrible fate, but they managed to stay open and continue roasting its most famous dish. Over the last 300 years, Botin has only been owned by the Botin and Gonzalez families, which is truly incredible if you think about it! 

Botin is known for their roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado).  The suckling pigs need to be at a minimum weight of 4 kg (8.8 lbs) or be at least 19 days old before it is roasted to perfection. The roast takes only about 2 hours in the same open door 300-year-old wood-fired oven (with the tile hood in the photo) that Botin has used since it opened its doors on day 1 in 1725.

Holm oak firewood is used in the oven for roasting. The acorns of holm oak trees are fed to the pigs which produce Jamón ibérico (Iberian, or Iberico ham). The circle of life of acorn, oak and pigs.

Throughout the last 300 years, Botin has had its fair share of celebrities and admirers. But no one more beloved by Botoin than American-writer and war journalist, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway dined there often and even had his own table at Botin – the most unassuming spot in the whole restaurant. Tucked away in a corner, Hemingway was said to be paranoid about being under enemy surveillance and preferred the unassuming corner. I guess I always thought of Hemingway’s would have been more outspoken, or rambunctious, rather than preferring to be sitting quietly in the corner. But what do I know?

Hemingway loved Botin so much, it features in two of his books: Death in the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises (one of my favorite books!)

In the last scene of the novel:

“We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.“

– Final scene, The Sun Also Rises.

For those super foodies, you can sign up for a 45-minute tour of the restaurant before lunch or dinner that includes a 7-course tasting menu. Guess who did that?

The tour I took (yellow) includes every floor of the building, from the crypt and wine cellar dating back to the 1500s, up to the top floor, a former boarding house. Rumor has it that Spanish artist, Francisco Goya, worked at Botin in the late 1700s as a dishwasher then waiter.

After the tour, I settled in with a couple for the 7-course family style tasting menu. This was fantastic, as we got to try a spread of their most famous dishes! We could also select whether we wanted the famous suckling pig or an equally famous roast lamb. Not surprisingly, we all opted for the suckling pig.

My 7-course family style dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world:

• Cured Manchego cheese
• Iberian ham (jamon iberico) & chicken croquettes
• Roasted red peppers with tuna belly
• House scrambled eggs with morcilla blood sausage & potato
• Segovian mushrooms with ham
• Suckling pig (or roasted lamb)
• Dessert – homemade caramel flan for me!

Oh my goodness, what an incredible meal! So many things stood out – the roasted red peppers with tuna belly was phenomenal. The tuna belly was so incredibly tender, and it went wonderfully with the soft texture of the roasted red peppers. The scrambled eggs with blood sausage and potatoes were simple, but delicious. (but then again, I’m not one to shy away from a blood sausage!). The Segovian mushrooms with ham was an unexpected delight. I’m not sure what Segovian mushrooms are, but they reminded me of a fresh and juicy shiitake mushroom. Loved the flavor mixed with the ham!

And then of course, the star of the show, the suckling pig. We didn’t have a whole suckling pig for ourselves, but we all got a more than generous portion. The skin was so light and crispy, not like the thicker pork belly skin you may be used to. The meat, beyond tender and flavorful! And for dessert, I closed with a homemade caramel custard flan. Jiggly, sweet – perfection!

Botin is absolutely one of the most unique restaurants Madrid, and a must if you are hunting gourmet experiences in Madrid!

2. Oldest Chocolateria in Madrid – Chocolatería San Ginés

Visit the oldest chocolatería in Madrid for a quintessentially normal breakfast snack!  (is that elevenses?) Ok, I wouldn’t consider this breakfast, but it seems that locals do!  Deliciously hot and fried churros and served with a Spanish hot chocolate. If you don’t know what a churro, think of a fried donut, except thin and elongated in shape!

Chocolateria San Gines has been making their churros and chocolate combo at the same location since 1894! Nowadays, Chocolateria San Gines basically owns the whole corner, with different indoor/outdoor seating locations, and an ice cream takeaway window. You can still enjoy your churros and chocolate in the original building, which dates back to 1890, but be prepared to queue up for that! For me, it was a lovely morning, so I opted for outdoor seating.

Churros and chocolate is the normal order (in Spanish: chocolate con 6 churros o 2 porras) and that sets you back 5.50 EUR. For 1 person, I didn’t finish it all. For 2 people, it’s probably perfect! Don’t forget to try dipping your churro in your hot chocolate!

Added benefit – Chocolateria San Gines is open 24-7 / 365 days a year! Since it’s open literally 24-7, you really have no excuse on visiting the oldest chocolateria in Madrid, do you?

3. World’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao

Honestly, who doesn’t love a dinner and a show? This gourmet experience at Corral de la Moreria takes dinner and a show to the next level, pairing a one-Michelin star awarded restaurant with an award-winning Flamenco show.

Photography is only allowed during the first 5 minutes of the show, and although my view for the show was fine, the photos/videos did not turn out. The photos of the show were provided by Corral de la Moreria with permission. Muchas gracias.

What is a tablao?

• A tablao is a place where flamenco shows are performed
• A tablao is also the term used for the platform floor in which a flamenco dancer dances.

– Wikipedia: Tablao

The show costs 47.95 EUR, and there are a number of different tasting menus to select from.  If you have specific food allergies or preferences, don’t worry – Corral de la Moreria offers gluten free and vegan tasting menu options, as well!

• If you want to book a dinner and a show, note that you’ll first pay 47.95 EUR for the show booking, and then after the show, you’ll pay for your meal.
• There is also a show + a drink option, for 49.95 EUR, which includes both.
• It’s a bit confusing, but there is also the option to dine without the show, but that is in the Restaurante Corral de le Moreria, which hosts 4 exclusive tables for dinner. The dinner and show are held at Restaurant Tablao (where the Flamenco stage is). I think it’s the same location, but in separate areas. I couldn’t figure out how to book this option on the booking website, just as an FYI!

Since I am an early bird, I went with the 19:30 pm show, with an 18:30 dinner seating. For the menu, I selected the 5-course tasting menu for 79.95 EUR. The meal is paid separately after the show.

• Cream of Glazed Chestnuts, Marrow of Vegetables, Duck and Chinese Artichokes
• Scallop Carpaccio with Tomato Tartare, Dates and Cold Garlic and Almond Soup with Coconut Milk
• Wild Sea Bass with Creamy Stewed Spring Onions and Smoked Iberian Bacon, accompanied by Grapefruit Emulsion and Fried Capers
• Roast Rack of Lamb Rested in its Caramelised Gravy and a Creamy Ragout of Winter Vegetables
• Caramelised French Toast Made With Fresh Milk and Served with Banana Ice Cream

What a truly wonderful evening at Corral de la Moreria! Each course was delicious with interesting flavor combinations, but not one course stood out as absolutely incredible. For me, the sea bass was probably my favorite, as it was expertly cooked to perfection with a light and crispy skin.

Following the meal, the lights dimmed and we were treated to an incredible flamenco show. If you’ve never watched a flamenco show, there would be one word I would use to describe the performers – powerful. Both the male and female performers were so intense and had a great command of their movement and the accompanying songs. The guitarists and singers accompanying the performers were also integral parts of the magic.

Because of the show, the majority of people who choose the dinner and show option are tourists. Let that guide you as to what type of experience you will be having at Corral de la Moreria. Is it off the beaten path and a hidden gem? No. Many travelers flock to Corral de la Moreria for this flamenco dining experience and it is definitely one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid.

That didn’t hinder my experience, but if you’re one of those Michelin-star hunters, it’s definitely not like any other Michelin-starred restaurants! As the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao, Corral de la Moreria is definitely a one-of-a-kind Michelin-starred dining experience!

– My Experience at RavioXO –

Before I move onto the last exquisite foodie experience in Madrid, I need to set up the story which brought me there.

For those who didn’t follow my social media stories about being snubbed as a solo diner, a little context. I made reservations for famed Madrid-chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO restaurant several weeks before my trip. Chef David has a number of restaurants in Madrid which have multiple Michelin stars and often ranks at the very top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Some might say that he’s arguably, Madrid’s hottest chef.

To set the stage, 9 out of 10 meals, due to circumstances of life and travel, I often dine alone. I am fine with this and aside from a handful of annoying experiences, it’s generally not a big deal.

I made reservations online, and although they did not have the option for 1 person, that often happens due to the booking system. Normally, I just email the restaurant afterward and tell them it’s just me. I did just this. Emailed, not once, not twice, but actually three times before someone actually acknowledged me, the day before my lunch.

In that first acknowledgement, they told me to email my reservation modifications to reservas@ravioxo.com. That was the exact email address that I had sent all 3 emails to. Eye roll, but fine. I’ll try again.

RavioXO had a cancellation fee, and I was afraid I’d be charged the cancellation fee for the 2nd person, who was not going to join me. After a brief “misunderstanding,” I was told that the reservation system doesn’t allow tables of 1 person,

“because in our restaurant we do not make reservations for one person. Our availability is only for tables of 2 people or more. In case you finally cannot find a person to accompany you, we could cancel the reservation and we will not charge you any cancellation fee.”

What’s actually wild is, RavioXO has bar seating available in the restaurant, so they could have just sat me at the bar or in a sad corner hidden away from humans. Really anything. But no, Chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO denied me the chance to eat there.

Many people on the internet have tried to suggest to me that solo diners cause a “restaurant to lose money.” To that, I say… have you ever seen me eat?

Had they allowed me to dine that day, quite possibly because I felt bad over the hassle, I would have definitely overcompensated and treated myself by ordering more. A wine or two at lunch, starters, desserts – who knows? The sky could’ve been the limit. If only they served solo diners.

Dear Chef Muñoz and the team at RavioXO,
Being a solo traveler (and a woman at that) is hard enough as it is. People stare at me and harass me all the time simply because I’m a woman alone. And your restaurant? Doesn’t even allow me to eat. I simply can’t fathom why I wouldn’t even be allowed to take one seat at the bar. If you would like to have a honest and frank conversation about how your “more than 2 people only” policy is not inclusive, I would be happy to engage in a discussion offline with you about that.

4. Best hidden gem in Madrid – Restaurante Barrera

After being snubbed for being a solo diner at one of Madrid’s hottest restaurants, I was left scrambling to find an alternative.  Granted, Madrid is full of excellent restaurants, but how do you choose from 100 fantastic ones?  Following the snub, I really just wanted a homey, off-the-beaten path, cozy restaurant – something that would embrace me with Spanish warmth and hospitality. So, who did I turn to in that instance? None other than Phil Rosenthal, who you may know from Somebody Feed Phil.

Restaurante Barrera is a restaurant with no website, no social media, and no written menu. There are barely any reviews online either. Don’t let that deter you, it’s probably one of the best food experiences in Madrid you could hope for!

When I walked into the Calle Ponzano tapas bar and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what to expect. In all honesty, I didn’t watch Phil’s episode (didn’t want to ruin the surprise) and I was still feeling a little shy from my rejection the day before. Ana Barrera, proprietress, greeted me as I walked in.

Ana and I exchanged some pleasantries, when she asked me about dining alone. I said that sometimes I want to travel and eat nice things, but if no one can accompany me, I choose to go alone. She expressed that she could never have done that back in her day, and that she thought I was very full of “valor” to do so. At least that’s what I could pick up from my poor-Spanish and her (much better) English. I don’t know that anyone has ever referred to me as brave for continuing on in my solo experiences in life, but I appreciated it both in the moment and after.

Without further ado, and without a menu, Ana began listing off the tapas I could choose from.

• amuse bouche – egg salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds
• light and crisp gazpacho soup, with micro greens (not shown)
• crispy fried artichokes tossed in sea salt
• the cabrito (baby goat)
• an exquisite lemon tart for dessert

If I had more of a stomach, I would have tried their famous crispy pork belly with (mashed) potato, but I think I had a wonderful variety with the above! Despite being tapas, these are definitely not small plates! But they are meant to be shared. With a second diner, you should definitely get all of the above and the crispy pork belly and potatoes! My whole meal cost 58 EUR which was a steal for the quality of the meal I had!

Notable standouts for the meal:

• the texture of the pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds with the egg salad amuse bouche was an incredible addition to add variety in the egg salad texture. And marcona almonds are always light and crunchy and especially delicious.
• THE FRIED ARTICHOKES. OMG. Expertly fried with gorgeous sea salt flakes. The sweet aubergine (eggplant) glaze was a nice contrast, but I’m not a hugely saucey person, so the artichokes were still perfect without
• The cabrito (baby goat) – I didn’t quite expect the cut to look like that, but then again, I really didn’t know what to expect. The flavor was rich and velvety almost, and wonderfully tender. It seemed to be prepared very simply, roasted in a wood-fired oven for hours in its own juices. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best way.
• the lemon tart was also a stand out. Calling it a lemon tart really doesn’t do it justice. The outer shell was a hard meringue, with a creamy and still warm, lemon cream/custard oozing out, covering a hidden lemon ice cream on the inside. So many different textures and temperatures, all coming together with a tart, lemony flavor. EXQUISITE in every way!

I wish I could tell you more about Ana and the restaurant, but communication was uneven and internet research for this truly off-the-beaten-path restaurant is scant. After the meal, I did watch Phil’s episode there (Season 5, Episode 5). His chef pal, Javier Bonet, explained “it’s a way – how you eat the food, sharing it with somebody. This is the concept of tapas.”

Well, despite tapas meant for being a shared experience, Ana and Restaurante Barrera made my lunch-for-1 incredibly special and memorable. Out of all the gourmet experiences in Madrid on this trip, Restaurante Barrera was the one that stood out the most.

So, thank you Ana for the wonderful meal, and I will be back for the pork belly and potatoes soon!

Parting thoughts on my gourmet experiences in Madrid

I was a little surprised at how many unique and incredible culinary experiences Madrid had to offer! Yes, Spain is known as a foodie heaven, but I hadn’t actually heard anything specific about Madrid. I mean, to be fair, I’ve never had such a wide variety of experiences in the time span of a few days! It made Madrid just an incredibly delicious trip.

There were so many once in a lifetime food experiences wrapped up in this one short trip. Dining at the world’s oldest restaurant and tasting the suckling pig that’s been roasted in the same way, in the same oven as it was 300 years ago was so special! and not to mention delicious! The churros and chocolate were a surprise breakfast that I didn’t expect, and I wouldn’t eat such a sugar-heavy breakfast in the future, but hey – when in Madrid, do as the Madrileans would have done since 1894! But light and expertly fried (and who doesn’t love to dip a churro), and given that they are open 24-7, there’s no excuse not to swing by and try it!

The Corral de la Moreria flamenco and Michelin-starred dinner experience is definitely for those first timers to Spain, or for people who have never experienced the excitement of Flamenco! Normally at venues where a lot of tourists flock, the food is nothing to write home about. But with this flamenco tablao, food is just as important as the flamenco. Experience a truly unforgettable evening at the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao!

And to round out all the experiences, a wonderful meal at Restaurante Barrera. After being sad and rejected by the hottest restaurant in town, this unassuming tapas bar and restaurant swooped in and saved the day. With simple by powerful dishes and Ana’s soft smile and gentleness, this is by far the stand out of my trip. For a restaurant with no menu, no website, and a written receipt at the end, this was truly the best food in Madrid.

The list above are probably the most outstanding culinary and gourmet experiences in Madrid. If you are looking to supplement this list with the basics on what to eat in Madrid, first start with the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour of Madrid, and then why not consider:

For this trip, I stayed at the Thomson Madrid – a newly opened 5-star hotel located between the Grand Via and Puerta del Sol. While it was a lovely stay, there was a lot of construction around the property. But it had a phenomenal location and I walked everywhere during my trip from there! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.

For other nice hotels centrally located near Grand Via, consider:

• Hyatt Centric Gran Via Madrid
• Hotel Montera Madrid, Curio Collection By Hilton
• JW Marriott Hotel Madrid

If you’re looking for other unexpected foodie adventures outside of Madrid, how about these places for some food for thought:

• Cheltenham – a Regency town in England with an unexpected food culture;
• Shetland Islands – a place where food stories warm your heart and soul!

And that’s it for today folks! Until next time, stay healthy and safe!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Pin these gourmet experiences in Madrid for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

And with Scotland’s incredible larder on their doorstep, there’s no wonder that Inver is globally recognized for their food. In 2021, Inver was awarded the first Michelin Green Star in Scotland. In 2022, Inver retained its Michelin Green Star and on top of that, the National Restaurant Awards awarded Inver the Best Restaurant in Scotland!

The Michelin Green Star is a new designation from Michelin Guide which celebrate the importance of sustainability in gastronomy.

They hold themselves accountable for both their ethical and environmental standards, and work with sustainable producers and suppliers to avoid waste and reduce or even remove plastic and other non-recyclable materials from their supply chain.

What is a Michelin Green Star – Michelin Guide

First rolled out in 2020/2021, Inver is still the only restaurant with a Michelin Green Star in Scotland. Across the UK and Ireland, the vast majority of Michelin Green Star restaurants are in England (27 restaurants), whereas Wales, Ireland, and Scotland each only have one.

Before I continue, I guess I should preface this by saying, this is more of a winter adventure than a foodie adventure. If you want to skip to the good part, check out my full Inver tasting menu experience from March 2023.

1. A Winter’s Tale at Inver

I write this as another “bomb cyclone” just hit the United States… When you book anything in the middle of December, there’s always the chance that a big snowy or cold surprise could derail that. However, typical coastal locations in Argyllshire (Scotland) are usually a few degrees too warm for snow. Rain yes, snow, mm, sometimes.

This also means that coming from Islay, it was raining… which is not unlike your average Monday. Road conditions on the mainland were snowy but pretty good. And luckily, the turn off for Inver was before good ole “Rest and be thankful” on A83 – a section of the road so terrible that it’s a regular source of humor and conversation within the community.

When I arrived at Inver, housed in a former crofter’s cottage, I was taken aback by the stunning views of Old Castle Lachlan and the quiet surrounding the loch. I was met by Rob, who brought me indoors into the bright and cozy lounge. Unfortunately, he and Pam decided to cancel and close for the evening. They tried to phone me and the other guests, but couldn’t reach us. Some pipes in the bothies had burst, and with the drop in temperature forecasted, the narrow, windy country roads were sure to freeze.

Rob explained that the local area usually stays warm enough, being next to the coast, where there is rarely snow or ice. But with a freak winter storm, this was the first time they’d had snow since they took over. To get to Inver, there is a little valley the road cuts through. Within the valley, a little microclimate in itself, the temperatures dip a few degrees colder than the surrounding area. The snow on the ground turns to mush, and with the dip in temperature, the valley would definitely ice over and become the most treacherous local section. Everyone who worked at Inver lived on the other side of the valley. And if they couldn’t prepare something for me for dinner, food was also on the other side of the valley.

When I departed the following morning, the roads were still pretty icy, and I can fully confirm the iced out valley that Rob warned me about!

But, I would have a place to stay that night.

So, with a roaring fire Rob bid me a temporary adieu to figure everything else out.

2. Staying at Inver – my Luxury Bothy

When dining at Inver, you have the option to stay the night in one of a handful of luxury shepherds huts or bothies.  Designed by Pam’s father Rodger, these huts and bothies include large glass windows to bring in ample light in a warm, Scandinavian setting. My bothy came with a bathtub (yessss), a record player (with a collection of records), a table and 2 chairs with a view, and an enormously comfortable bed.  It felt spacious and luxurious. The bothy itself was snug and toasty, despite the cold snap outside.  All I wanted to do was coorie in. 

“Coorie in”: Scots phrase meaning to snuggle in, or to be cozy 

I settled into my seat with the view of Old Castle Lachlan, with my glass of red and some old jazz playing on the record player, toasting all the unexpected things in life.  A few hours later, in what felt like a coordinated “Be Our Guest” delightful whirl, Inver staff danced into the bothy with 2 picnic baskets – one for dinner, one for tomorrow’s breakfast.  The last staff lingers outside the bothy at the door.

He pops his head in – “Don’t forget the pudding later!” he says as he drops a bowl of ice cream in a mound of snow at the doorstep. In a whirl, he’s gone into the darkness.

You can’t help but smile at the irony. Too cold and icy to drive, perfect for a Michelin green star ice cream, left in the snow. 

The dinner shuffle quickly exits, with everyone’s warmest wishes and apologies for the evening. The picnic will be great, I say with a smile, while bidding them good night.  

3. My dinner picnic basket from Inver

Don’t think that just because it was a picnic dinner, it was lacking in any way! It was not! Along with a typed menu for the evening, containers contained wee instructions to assemble the course.

• Bread sticks & yeast glaze, sourdough miso dip – the most delicious sourdough miso dip known to mankind!
• Onion soup – savory and creamy, and piping hot out of the thermos.
• Sourdough bread & Inver butter – enough to save some for breakfast!
• Dressed loch Fyne crab, sea buckthorn, & fennel, with herring roe – a light and lush addition to my dinner picnic!
• Ardyne Farm pork sausage roll – gorgeously delicious pork sausage, with crisp and light pastry. Perfect for a cold night!
• Buckwheat ice-cream & late autumn fruits (with some puffed buckwheat to “sprinkle on the pud”!)
• Ameretti biscuits
• Hand-made Scottish chocolates

The dinner was a vibe unto itself. Pitch black outside, with snow and ice covering the ground. Inside, it couldn’t have been more different.

A record player setting the mood with some jazz, a tall glass of red, and a Michelin green star picnic in a luxury bothy.

As far as snow days go, this one isn’t bad!

4. Breakfast picnic basket from Inver

The coziness of the bothy just means that there are inherent challenges getting out of bed. That’s ok – some mornings are made for basking in the comfort of a slow, winter’s day.

For my breakfast picnic, behold the local delights Chef Pam and her team prepared:

• Sourdough, Inver butter & jam
• Boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt
• Inver potted trout – my favorite of the breakfast items. I never knew I would be a “fish for breakfast” kinda gal, but this was absolutely stunning spread over the sour dough bread with some butter. In addition to the trout roe, the herb salt, and that rich Inver butter… it was chef’s kiss delicious!
• Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
• Inver cardamon yoghurt & autumn fruit compote
• Fresh fruit
• Orange juice

It was a wonderful breakfast, without any hot foods, but 100% not lacking in any way. By the time breakfast was over, I was beaming with gratitude that despite unforeseen circumstances, I could still enjoy such an incredible stay at Inver.

5. Meeting Chef Pam Brunton

Many foodies would jump at the chance to have a 1-on-1 conversation with a world renowned chef. Spending any bit of face time with someone that talented is always exciting. I imagined being wide-eyed, dreamy, and salivating hearing about local cheese producers or local farmers or fisherman. Of course, those conversations didn’t take place because of the big winter detour.

During what must have been a stressful afternoon for her, the one thing I remember about Chef Pam is her incredible laugh. Spirited and boisterous, her laughter fills the cold winter afternoon with warmth and comfort.

But really, what else could we do in the face of this situation, but laugh? Well, I’ll tell you what I did. And Pam had the same idea for me. Bottle of wine? 100% yes. That’ll do just fine, cheers!

Parting Thoughts on my Dine and Stay at Inver

For a business that just had to do the unthinkable and cancel services due to weather, Rob and Pam still made it a wonderful evening and overall stay. Their sense of hospitality runs deep within them, and even in surprising circumstances, they still made it a lovely experience!  

The picnic baskets were a thoughtful addition to what could have been a ruined evening. In reality, nothing in the picnic baskets felt like an afterthought. There were no mismatched cutlery or plates or bowls. Even the thermos which kept the onion soup piping hot was in the same Scandinavian chic, muted color palette as the rest of the bothy. All of the jars and containers for the dishes and all of its accouterments were glass or otherwise reusable.  It goes without saying there were no single use plastics found anywhere in those chic, delicious, and super sustainable picnic baskets.  

The food was exquisitely delicious for a picnic, and it makes me look forward to when I can return in March 2023 and try it in full. I imagine it will be an exquisite experience! Stay tuned for the updated “real” Inver experience!

I did return in March 2023, and it was INCREDIBLE. Get the full details!

Information on Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh

• Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
• Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
• Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (one with a bath)
• Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking.  However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

If this type of luxury dine and stay in Scotland is your thing, be sure to also check out:

• Monachyle Mhor – hidden away in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park;
• The Peat Inn – a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms near St. Andrews – a wonderful stay with a wonderful meal!
• Kinloch Lodge – a charming lodge on the the Isle of Skye;
• and Glenegedale House – a luxury B&B on Scotland’s whisky island known for their hospitality and food!

Or if you’re simply on the hunt for incredible food in Scotland, might I suggest this delightfully curated list of the best seafood platters in Scotland or seek inspiration from my recent trip with some peerie stories of Shetland food.

Until next time, stay safe and eat delicious food!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In some of my normal fine dining “review” posts, I normally let the pictures speak for themselves.  However, there is a bit more to be said this time.  

The lighting in the restaurant was too dim for the newest of iPhones, so excuse the photo quality, but perhaps that in itself is foreshadowing.

1. Not given the option of a tasting menu

Typically, when I go to restaurants like Unalome, I am dining alone.  And while it may be unusual, this solo diner enjoys multi-course tasting menus. À la carte options are typically available, as well.  This time, when the menu was brought out, I was only given the à la carte menu.  Tables nearby had a trifold menu where I overheard diners discussing the vegetarian or normal tasting menu options.  However, my menu was only bifold giving me only à la carte options. 

Subsequent internet research confirmed my suspicions of a tri-fold menu, giving non-solo diners the option of the tasting menu.

I didn’t ask – I mistakenly assumed that the à la carte and tasting menu had the same items on it. However, when I ordered the tasting menu, there was a little surprise from my server, but also no additional effort to show me the tasting menu either.  

It’s also confusing that the à la carte menu says its 90£ per person, when the tasting menu is priced at 110£ pp. Why would the à la carte be charged per person?

2. Eating my tasting menu blind

Not having the menu was a real miss for me. I genuinely enjoy referring back to the menu and seeing if there were flavors that I overlooked in the first bite. It also took away from the built up excitement for the next course, as well.

I’m not sure if it’s the discomfort of a solo diner – I am all too familiar with this… Or that they were trying to give me space to enjoy my meal in peace.  Either way, I felt that the team spent less time explaining the nuances of each course to me.

Recall too, that I am eating these courses blind – having not received the menu… Later, I found a sample tasting menu online.  But in the moment, in the absence of a physical menu to refer to, the descriptions when the courses arrive should help to supplement that.  While I don’t expect the wait staff to explain every foam, every flower, or every puree in each course, I do hope for a little more explanation.  I overheard servers going into far more detail about each course and each item on the plate for other diners.

I tried to prompt my servers by asking questions as they checked on me, showing interest in the ingredients and hoping for more detail at the next course.  But, it didn’t quite work either.

3. I would’ve chosen different plating

Another thing that I found a little odd about my dining experience were the plating and cutlery (silverware) options provided.  It’s one of those things where if it’s done properly, you don’t think about it during your meal. But in reality, people spend effort in carefully and thoughtfully selecting the right bowl or plate for the particular dish.  My issue with this was that there were a few courses that were soupy or foamy in nature.  However, these were served in large, shallow pasta dishes (essentially).  It was really difficult to get the most out of your course in such a shallow dish.  

There was one course, where I really wanted a knife to cut the 2 small potatoes. Instead of a knife, I had a fork and a spoon (the rest of the dish was foamy and soupy). Not wanting to put a large chunk of potato into my mouth, I tried to carefully slice it with a fork and a spoon. There is no graceful way of doing this, and my spoon clamored down onto the plate with a thud both times I attempted this.

Luckily, it wasn’t just me. When nearby tables were served that course, I heard the familiar, loud thud as the spoon hit the plate.

4. Not the most creative dining experience

Besides the incredible food, part of the fun of fine dining experiences is the sheer creativity that chefs employ in imagining and creating their courses. Seeing how a chef can excite all your senses, not just taste, is what sets them apart in a league of their own.

However, 3 back-to-back courses were foamy and soupy. 

• The Orkney scallops had a white foam, along with pumpkin purée, pumpkin seed pesto, and maybe pickled pumpkin;
• Wild Perthshire Mushrooms, also had a white foam, a garlic soup, and two delicious but unknown sauces;
• North Sea Cod Loin with a white foam, and a cauliflower puree.

Don’t get me wrong, the flavors were rich and interesting, but the white foamy excitement of the Orkney scallops became a tired foam after the 3rd foam course.

5. Not paying homage to their food producers or sustainable food practices

“From our hand dived scallops to foraged cep mushrooms, we are passionate about sourcing the best ingredients, sustainably.”

I’m surprised to find this quote on their website, under the Sustainability section.

Part of the reason that I love the food experience in Scotland is this beautiful relationship between chef and food producers. Other restaurants have regaled me with tales of the farm that they get their fresh flowers from, or the fisherman that have supplied them with the freshest catch over the years. In some rare cases, I can even give you the name of the individual who hand dived the scallops on my plate. I mean, I did just travel to the end of the world to Shetland to meet the people behind the food there.

These are the stories that I live for in my food experience. The stories that humanize my food experience. To recognize the beauty and importance of every contribution in the local supply chain.

Even with the “Wild Perthshire Mushroom” course – I’d like to assume it was foraged in Perthshire’s big tree country, but even then, that’s an assumption. This would have been a good course to talk about sustainable food practices.

There are some restaurants that can weave these stories seamlessly throughout the dinner service without a second thought. And then, there are those restaurants that leave you guessing and scouring the internet for answers.

Parting Thoughts and lasting impressions on Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Now at the end, I should start at the beginning.

Unalome (pronounced oon-a-lome) – the word itself is a Buddhist symbol which represents the winding path of life, which leads to an individual’s enlightenment.

As someone connected to the Buddhist community (I am not an actively practicing Buddhist), this symbol and its elegant representations feel misused as a brand name for a restaurant that doesn’t even explain its significance. To be honest, it feels almost as bad as backpackers in Bali or Bangkok who get this “cool” symbol tattooed on their body. But Unalome (the restaurant) has nothing to do with the symbol. They’ve just taken the word – the name. I’m fighting the urge to say that the name has been bluntly appropriated from Buddhist culture, with no regard to its meaning or significance.

Not knowing much about the chef’s culinary background, maybe Buddhism did inspire him to name a restaurant after a religious symbol… and if that’s the case, then PR needs to do a better job of communicating that.

A culturally sensitive person would not have began the restaurant introduction with the words, “Traditionally, a Buddhist symbol, Unalome…”. Let’s be very clear. It is not “traditionally” a symbol – it is a Buddhist symbol. Not traditionally, always. There is no other use for it other than Buddhist symbolism. Period.

(Plus, the symbol is an actual graphic shown above, not the name. Are we pretending that the name, Unalome, is the symbol?)

I am also cringing at the suggestion that naming the restaurant after a Buddhist concept has anything to do with the Japanese culture that inspired the menu. Not all Japanese are Buddhist, not all Buddhist are Japanese. And conceptually, Unalome (the symbol) is not a Japanese concept – it is Buddhist.

Can we please not mix and match Asian cultures and religions as we see fit?

As I went back through my photos and notes on this meal, I realized that my experience at Unalome was probably doomed from the start.

Not everyone has the blessing or fortune in life to always share great experiences with friends and family. I wasn’t able to have anyone join me for dinner that evening, and 98% of the time I am a solo diner. But this blurb, while trying to be inclusive, missed the mark. The shared experience of Unalome with your friends and family specifically excludes one demographic –

• Solo diners, i.e. ME.

By closing the menu blurb with the only reference to the meaning of the Unalome symbol (without explanation), you’ve diminished the symbol and a name to the punch line of your restaurant. When you are thanking me for joining you on this path to enlightenment, are you bowing at me with your hands in a praying position as well?

My dining experience at Unalome has nothing to do with enlightenment.

Sure, some dining experiences can be transcendental – but not this one.

To close, I would not pay 110£ in the future for a meal that left me confused and utterly disappointed, and reeling with twinges of cultural insensitivity.

Do yourself a favor and go around the corner in Finnieston to The Gannet, which is arguably a higher caliber meal in every respect. I haven’t written about my experiences at the Gannet because I’ve been busy this year, but The Gannet is everything that Unalome is currently not.

Or, if you’re looking for other fine dining experiences in Scotland that left outstanding impressions on me, check out:

• Inver Restaurants & Rooms – the only Michelin green star awarded restaurant in Scotland!
• Kinloch Lodge, award winning and tucked away on the Isle of Skye;
• A hidden gem in the Trossachs, Monachyle Mhor;
• The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – tasting the land and the sea;
• and, coming soon – The Glenturret Lalique – the only whisky distillery with one Michelin Star.

Thank you for reading my unpopular opinion of Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, and a special shout out to the Twitter community for their encouragement to write about my experience!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

As luck would have it, I met a group of foodies earlier this year from Taste of Shetland – the area’s regional food and drink organization. If you can imagine a group of foodies laughing and giggling over food, that was us. Since then, I have been planning a trip to Shetland to visit this unsung food destination to coincide with their annual Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival (held this year on October 22 – 23, 2022). Through the Food & Drink Festival, I reconnected with my friends and made new ones who also love food in Shetland! We spent countless hours talking (and eating) none other than Shetland’s finest produce.

L: Shetland food festival 2022 groupies, plus Chef Nick Nairn;
R: the placemat at No. 88 in Lerwick, showing the best example of proximity of suppliers I’ve ever witnessed.

During most of my stay in Shetland, I was volunteering at the festival, meaning that I only managed to nip away to try a few restaurants while there. In reality, that’s ok – because the food experience in Shetland is not limited to restaurants. Food culture is everywhere!

Outside the festival, the warmth of Shetland hospitality was never far from food (or family at that). Whether it was homemade dinners with Mary and her visiting family at Hayhoull Bed and Breakfast in Bigton, or chatting with Marian Armitage in Scatness over toasty beremeal bannocks fresh oot the oven with rhubarb jam, homemade food was always front and center, along with that jovial warmth Shetlanders seem to exude.

Before I continue, allow me to wax poetic about food tourism for a minute. You all may know that I enjoy experiencing a place through its food traditions. Oftentimes one of the first thing I do when visiting a new place, is go on a food tour. In other food tours I’ve taken, you bounce around a place eating from restaurants, hearing stories of the place and its food, and (maybe) visiting a food producer or a producer’s shop (like a cheesemaker or a cheese shop), sampling foods along the way. While there are no food tours in Shetland, this Scotland foodie was determined to experience Shetland with food at its forefront.

The World Food Travel Association defines food tourism as,

“the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”

And that’s exactly what I was looking for in Shetland.

Below is a short collection of 4 peerie (little) stories, each about a person in Shetland who have a direct impact on Shetland food, and have influenced my perception of food culture.

1. Respect and affection for the food

During the Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival, I was fortunate to attend a “lamb boning” Masterclass with Lauraine Manson from Shetland’s abbatoir (or slaughterhouse). While it was called lamb boning, what it really showcased was how to utilize a single lamb to feed a village.

Lauraine is tall and dressed in all black, besides the pop of color of her red fedora. We were in a red colored room, so actually, she matches the decor. She walked in with a lamb shaped cloth sack slung over her shoulder. As she took us through her life’s experience, Lauraine made thoughtful incisions and intentional cuts to the carcass. Each cut is done with care and respect for the animal whose body she works on.

She speaks a lot about her respect for the animals. You’ll probably never find her with a cleaver hacking away at anything. It’s disrespectful, she reminds us. Those animals gave their lives for your meal – we need to respect that.

Following the deboning, the shape of the carcass no longer resembles an animal, now closer to the meat we are used to handling.

With the meat carefully splayed over the table, Shetland-native and food writer Marian Armitage steps up. Armed with a simple concoction of couscous, breadcrumbs, apricots and parsley, Marian spreads the stuffing over the lamb. “There’s no accurate quantity [for the stuffing],” Marian says, and Lauraine agrees that there’s no need for that. But don’t forget a twist of the pepper grinder, some of Shetland’s very own sea salt, and maybe some extra cumin for good measure. With a ball of twine, Lauraine and Marian come together to tightly roll the lamb and tie it, ready to roast.

Lamb would have been prepared that way for large family gatherings or village weddings. Done this way, everyone would get a bit of meat, and the stuffing (infused with all the flavors from the lamb) would take care of the rest.

Unfortunately, they didn’t cook the lamb at the food and drink festival. Earlier in the year, Lauraine and Marian did the demonstration (and cooked the lamb) for the 2022 Royal Highland Show. And I bet it smelled and tasted like no other!

2. Food tourism in Shetland – a visit to Garths Croft Bressay

Through my research on food tourism in Shetland, I found Garth’s Croft – a sustainable agricultural holding, run by Chris Dyer, focusing on traditional and different heritage breeds of sheep, pigs and poultry. Shortlisted for the 2022 Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Food Tourism, Chris offers tours of his croft and around local Bressay. He also offers a variety of bespoke tours focusing on history and heritage of the surrounding areas.

Bressay is located a quick 7 minute ferry from the Lerwick pier on Mainland Shetland.

Most of the visitors to Garth’s Croft are “fiber community” enthusiasts – people who love wool and knitting.  Thanks to the internet, the undyed fleeces from his heritage Shetland sheep are sent from one far corner of the world to another.  The magic of the internet also gives Chris an avenue to offer Zoom tours of the croft.  It seems to work well, considering Shetland’s remote location and the effort involved in visiting.

I don’t think Chris sees himself as being part of “food tourism”. I can see the direct connection funnily enough, but as a trained archaeologist and historian who runs a sustainable agricultural holding… he needs a little convincing. I think that’s part of his humility though, for being recognized and nominated in a tourism category he never saw himself as part of.

Food tourism, agritourism, ecotourism – call it what you want. At the end of the day, my experience with Chris from Garth’s Croft is hands down one of the best tourism experiences I’ve ever had.

– Lannie, extremely opinionated travel extraordinaire

Croft is not a word that gets used often outside of Scotland, and to be fair, I wasn’t entirely sure about the nuances of what a croft includes. A “croft” is defined by the Oxford dictionary as:

• a small rented farm, especially one in Scotland,
• comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house (the croft house), and
• with a right of pasturage held in common with other such farms.

Traditionally, crofting brings us back to subsistence farming – raising livestock and growing crops intended to feed you and your family, normally without surplus. Nowadays, most crofters aren’t practicing subsistence farming only. That being said, Chris only raises enough livestock that he himself can manage. Turns out it’s a lot, but still.

The sheep interrupt us to grab a cuddle from Chris, or so it seems. In actuality, Dinky is coming around to eat some of the feed Chris has in his hands. Dinky, who was the runt of the litter, is “special”, Chris says, originally needing to be bottle fed at birth. It’s amusing watching the colorful sheep playfully vying for his attention. I watch in silence, smiling at the incredible detail I just witnessed – Chris giving Dinky a little affectionate scratch on the head, as Dinky eagerly eats everything out of his other hand.

When Chris began crofting, his motivation had less to do with raising sheep to feed and clothe the masses and more with bringing the heritage of the area back to the forefront. To explain, what drives Chris is that deep connection to the land. For the archaeologist and historian, it’s less about what breeds can maximize your yields at the sheep sales, but more – what breeds are traditional to this land? What breeds can we bring back to this land?

And so he set out repurposing his croft, as a tribute to the old ways, while blending it with new, sustainable practices. Building the first drystone square enclosure on Shetland in 1,000 years, Chris sectioned off a “plantiecrub” or a traditional kale yard next to the croft house. Yes, Chris is actually one of very few drystone masons on Shetland as well, mending the walls that snake around Bressay, neighboring Noss, and mainland Shetland.

Watch this video on YouTube.

(This is a great croft tour video on YouTube that Chris made.
Let’s just blame Shetland’s weather for me not taking as many photos or videos that day I was in Bressay.)

Back to the kale yard.  Historically, that’s what it did – it grew kale, potatoes (taaties / tatties), and other root vegetables.  Kale has been in Shetland since, at least, the 17^th century.  The drystone walls provide some cover to Shetland’s harsh weathers – but that’s ok, kale seems to thrive in the tumultuous weather. Back in the day, the kale would be in the enclosure with the family’s own “hoose taaties”.  Hoose taaties are… potatoes for the “hoose” (house).

Chris is proud that the croft can thrive with zero artificial fertilizer, preferring to use a variety of heritage pigs to naturally plow and fertizile plots of land to render it arable. To supplement the kale yard and to provide weather cover for other crops, there is the polycrub greenhouse – made from recycled salmon cages.  Inside, the polycrub houses the croft’s singular apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, along with other greens and produce hidden away from Shetland’s harsh weather. I say singular fruit trees, because that’s part of Chris’ mentality, isn’t it?  He doesn’t need an orchard full of apple trees, the one is enough to feed him and his family, with some left for the Bressay community.

Garth’s Croft is an exciting blend of old and new, going back to the days before globalization and mass production, using the land to feed and clothe your family unit.  For us travelers and dreamers, a visit to Garth’s Croft makes us ponder our own life and its excesses. While few of us will do what Chris did, and move to a remote corner of the world to live off the land, there is a genuine admiration and awe of those who do.  But to be able to not only live, but thrive in such an environment – it’s an extraordinary thing and takes an extraordinary person to do so.

To bring it back to food and food tourism and Garth’s Croft…  While I haven’t outright said just yet, you as my reader must know that all the livestock in the world will end up on someone’s table at some point in time. This is true in both mass production and small scale subsistence farming. And while we are looking at beautiful heritage sheep with colorful wool or pigs happily burrowing for worms, their purpose in the end is to feed us.

Although I never tasted any of the various meat products or fresh produce from Garth’s Croft, I have a feeling that all the thoughtful care and attention Chris pays would certainly resonate in the end-product. Have you heard the myth of Kobe beef in Japan? With its world famous, gorgeously marbled meats, true or not, the cows are said to regularly listen to Mozart and given massages. While the sheep from Garth’s Croft don’t listen to Mozart (that I know of!) and unfortunately get subjected to somewhat miserable Shetland weather, they appear to have an extremely fun-loving and sustainable environment to live in. 

The Shetland agricultural community thrives on sheep. Whether that’s for Shetland’s thick “ganseys” (sweaters or jumpers for the non-Shetland speakers), to sell to mainland farmers, or for purchase and slaughter in Shetland, the agricultural community resolves around sheep and their sales. Lamb, born in the spring, take about 6 months to grow and mature, and are ready by the fall.

The sheep sales in Shetland run between August to November, from 2-3 times a week. 3-4,000 sheep are sold each time, with Chris and Lauraine being critical components to and daily fixtures at the sales. The sheep sales are the lifeblood of the agricultural community in Shetland. Chris invited me to one of the sales, and I would have loved to attend if I weren’t so busy with the festival. But, always save something for next time!

People like Lauraine and Chris are critical contributions to the sheep industry on Shetland. Their humane and respectful treatment of animals and committment to sustainable farming practices must have a direct impact on the taste of the food – it’s inevitable.  The excitement of honest, humane food practices and the emphasis on traditional values brought me to Shetland to experience the taste of Shetland in person.

It was this complex, yet simple sustainable crofting approach to life and food production that I sought out in my travels to Shetland. And from that search, I found Garth’s Croft on Bressay.

* Other Heritage Tours with Garth’s Croft

Normally, visits to Garth’s Croft are combined with a trip to the Bressay Heritage Centre and Speldiburn Cafe, but alas – it was the dreaded Monday in off-season Scotland, where almost everything is closed. But don’t let that stop you – it didn’t hinder my experience with Chris that day. Following the morning at the croft, in the most torrential weather conditions, we set out in Bressay to explore croft ruins and an Iron Age broch.

Later on in the week, I spent a second day with Chris, almost entirely unrelated to food.  We went up through mainland Shetland to Yell (via another ferry) and onto Unst (via ferry), to the UK’s most northern part – basking in its rugged beauty and history dotting the land. 

From the remains of Viking longhouses in Sandwick to the construction site of its new space port (space port?  I know, right?!!), Chris’ enthusiasm for the land and its history was infectious.  Because you can only plan so much with island life, a serendipitous missing of a ferry led us to exploring the spectacular Breckon Sands beach in Yell. 

• ❤️ Shout out to these good folks on Unst: Final Checkout Café for the delightful white coffee and Skibhoul Bakery for your wonderful baked goods for our picnic.

Even though Viking or military history isn’t my strong suit, there are so many memorable things about that day.  I don’t know if it was the wild remoteness that hypnotized me, the picnic inside a (replica) Viking longhouse (I love a good picnic), or the fact that we were the two most northern people in all of the UK that day… it was windy and rainy at parts, but overall, filled with wonder and amazement.

More to come on this later!

3. Hospitality and Food in Shetland

During my time in Shetland, I was fortunate enough to be able to spend time with people and their families – a far cry from your average tourist experience. I wanted to share some of the warm memories centered around food that my hosts and their families left with me.

* With Mary in Bigton

There’s nothing like a freak internet and mobile blackout to bring people together.  The morning that I arrived on Shetland, unbeknownst to me, there was a blackout of all internet and cell services.  Everything (digital) came to a halt.  Luckily, people in the villages of rural Scotland are used to walking over to their neighbors for a blether. And in the village of Bigton, there was a lot of folks popping into Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast every so often to say hi to Mary (my hostess) and have a blether about the blackout. 

Through the course of the week on Shetland, I met and chatted and dined with Mary’s: daughter, granddaughter, niece, sisters, and other relatives that I met in a blur.  It was so fun hear them spiritedly catch up with each other, in the Shetland dialect, translated at times for my benefit.  And as someone who works abroad for most of the year, it tugged at my heart strings for the family not near me. 

What lovely family moments, chatting away over a roasting peat fire, often talking and laughing well into the night. 

Before I ran off to the ferry, I sat down for one last meal with Mary, her daughter, and granddaughter.  A simple vegetable soup with lamb.  As Mary’s daughter explained to her daughter, “Granny’s mum made this soup for me and now granny is now making this soup for you.”  And just like that, I was brought into the fold of Mary’s mothers’ vegetable soup with lamb, keeping me warm as I left Shetland.

* Scatness with Marian

If ever there were any singular person who is Shetland food’s greatest ambassador and quintessential expert, that would be Marian Armitage. 

Marian, a local Shetlander who now splits her time between London and Shetland, dreamt of being a cookery school teacher at age 12. Now, with two books out, she is the go-to-resource on Shetland’s food and traditional recipes.

I spent my last morning in Shetland in the village of Scatness with Marian.  When I walked into her kitchen, a charming throwback to country kitchens, it felt cozy, adorable, and oddly familiar. A quick glance to the stack of cooking books on the table revealed Marian’s first book – Shetland Food and Cooking – with her iconic kitchen immortalized on the cover.

That morning, Marian was expecting her old neighbors from Lerwick to stop by, and set about to bake some fresh beremeal bannocks for her guests. By the time I arrived, they were just coming out of the oven. Perfect timing, I love a freshly baked good.

There’s something about the smells of a kitchen that’s just baked something fresh, isn’t there?

She instinctively grabs a bannock, slathers some Shetland butter on it, and asks me to taste it. “Is it done?” she asks. Of course the bannocks are done, and absolutely perfect from my perspective. Warm and thick, with deliciously melted butter dripping off the edges. “We’ll have it with some rhubarb jam in a minute.” (homemade, obviously)

As we walk into the conservatory overlooking the wild sea, we reminisce about Orkney and our visit to Barony Mill, where the beremeal flour she’s using was milled. Bere is an ancient barley, which dates back to the 8th century. A darker grain, and slightly bitter – making the bannocks a hearty affair. Like Shetland, I suppose.

Marian and I spoke at length about her love of Shetland and its food traditions, and the deep drive she has to share it with people. I didn’t realize the depths of that passion at the time, but I do now. I get it. As she so beautifully describes in her first book:

“What is special about Shetland is the people who live there and their relationship and interaction with the surrounding sea and land. They are interesting, interested, unique, skilled and outward thinking. They are influenced by the past and in many instances the old ways.”

– Marian Armitage, from Shetland Food and Cooking.

But it’s the strength of the relationships that Shetlanders have with each other too, that enhances the experience with food. And in all honesty, the bannocks and rhubarb jam tasted better with the company of Marian, Marian’s husband, James, her old neighbor from Lerwick, and his friend.

And once again, the familiar embrace of Shetland warmth and hospitality and food.

4. Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you all can see, this was a very moving trip for me. The connection between the food, the land, the people, the sea, and the animals is so thoughtful and vibrant, and really, such an exciting thing to experience. I really wasn’t prepared for all the ways that Shetland’s food opened my eyes into their world. Aside from the taste of the food itself, no regional cuisine has given me so much to think about.

But isn’t that what travel is supposed to do for us? Give us a moment to pause, reflect, and consider a different way of life? I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that with globalization and mass production, it’s simply easier (and unfortunately cheaper) to just go to the grocery store to buy your clementines from Spain or your pears from Chile. Many people don’t have easy access to farm-to-table or local produce options.

But that being said, this is a food and travel blog. I write this in hopes of influencing conscious decisions about food choices when you travel:

• Intentional support of local businesses.
• Seeking out ethical and sustainable businesses.
• Finding experiences that go beyond the norm.
• Meeting and embracing the local community.

Those are the things that fill your heart with memories after you return.

I’m reminded of an Anthony Bourdain quote,

“Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that were charming and interesting and intoxicating to me. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.“

And with that, I sincerely thank Shetland for the perfect meal it served me.

5. Shetland Post Resources

• Chris from Garth’s Croft on Bressay – the reluctant food tourism hero of Bressay, promoting heritage and sustainable agriculture in Shetland;

• Link
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Mail

• Where I stayed in Shetland: Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast in Bigton – 25 minutes drive from Lerwick and right next to St. Ninian’s Isle. I think you know I had an absolutely wonderful stay here!

• Link
• Facebook
• Mail

• Marian Armitage’s Shetland books – Food Made in Shetland (just released in 2022!) and Shetland Food and Cooking. If you’re wanting to learn more about the food, these books from Marian are essential for any foodie and home cook! They’re filled with traditional Shetland recipes and great photos to salivate over.

• Link
• Instagram
• Amazon

Getting to Shetland by Air

There are regular direct flights to Sumburgh Airport on Loganair from:

• Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Kirkwall (Orkney) in Scotland;
• London City and Manchester in England;
• Bergen, Norway, in the summer.

Getting to Shetland by Ferry

Take the 12-14 hour overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. On M, W, F, the ferry also stops in Orkney, so there’s an extra 2 hours for all the Orkney passengers and goods to join / disembark.

Most Shetlanders think the “pods” on the ship are miserable for such a long sailing. Though pricey, getting a room is highly recommended!

For those who get sea sick… off season North Sea overnight ferries are not your friend!

PIN IT FOR LATER!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

While travel fuels my curiousity, food literally fuels life.

I realized recently that I have in fact taken many, many food tours. I review some of them in lots of detail on my blog already. But I decided this would be a running short intro of all the food tours I’ve taken, and some that my Twitter friends have taken. Food tours are an amazing way to be introduced to a new culture or place. But not only that, if you take a food tour early in your trip, you’ll automatically get ideas for meals during your stay! (win!)

This post will be organized by location, so feel free to use the Table of Contents below to pick and choose whichever one you’d like. (Click to expand the Table of Contents.)

Each post will include:

• photos,
• a brief description,
• adult prices verified at the time of writing,
• my/our thoughts,
• a website for booking.

Two food tours are *free* (!!), denoted by * in the Table of Contents. And, several even contain *discount codes* for future bookings, denoted by ** in the Table of Contents.

This blog and its contributors do not receive commissions for the tours booked via this post. This post is created exclusively to introduce the reader to food tours, as well as promote small business during the time of covid.

So, without further ado… I bring you, all the food tours you can imagine.

1. North America

1.1 Bahamas

1.1.1 Nassau

by Donna from Curious Donna

Just say “Nassau, Bahamas” and immediately, the turquoise ocean comes to mind. But there’s so much more to it than its pristine beaches. Consider a food tasting and cultural walking tour with Tru Bahamian Food Tours. You’ll get a good grasp of traditional Bahamian food and drinks as well as the stories behind them. You might even get the chance to meet the owners of the local establishments.

During the four-hour tour, the knowledgeable guide will take you on a mile-long walk to important sites, provide fascinating historical background, and share helpful tips. Along the way, you’ll find several vibrant colored buildings and eye-catching details around downtown Nassau. 

The tour’s six stops include: 

• Bahamian Cookin’ Restaurant – here you’ll taste the traditional steamed chicken, peas n’ rice, Bahamian mac n’ cheese, banana plantains, and conch fritters. From this restaurant, you’ll get a glimpse of the Central Bank of the Bahamas and the historic two-century old Balcony House.
• Towne Hotel – a downtown inn dressed up in eclectic décor and is pure eye candy just like its bar and restaurant called Talking Stick. Here, you’ll meet the resident blue macaw named Max while you sip on the classic Planters Punch. 
• Graycliff Chocolatier – renowned for its chocolate factory, you’ll be able to sample some elegantly handcrafted chocolates here.
• The Drawbridge – an adorable gelateria and patisserie where you’ll be treated to refreshing gelato. 
• Athena Café & Bar – where you’ll be served authentic Greek salad and a cup of tasty conch chowder reminiscent of Manhattan clam chowder. By the way, make sure to pronounce conch as “konk” (rhymes with “honk”).
• Tortuga Rum Cakes – at this last stop, you can buy some of the best-selling original Caribbean rum-infused cake to bring home. 

For more information, visit TruBahamian Food Tours.
Eat, Drink, and Discover Authentic Nassau, Bahamas
Cost: $69 USD adults + 12% tax
Expert tip: By the way, this tour is held rain or shine! If it does rain, the tour guide is prepared to hand you a rain poncho.

1.2 Canada

1.2.1 Montreal

Finding activities to do in the middle of winter can sometimes be a challenge. But thank goodness for Local Montreal Food Tours! So bundle up and show up hungry!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

For more information, visit Local Montreal Food Tours.
Cost: Adult $64.99 CAD | $48.99 USD

1.2.2 Toronto

by Lisa from Following the Rivera

Of all the food tours I’ve joined on my travels, there’s one in particular that stands out. The Culinary Adventure Co. St. Lawrence Market food tour dishes up delicious local bites as well as the local history.

St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, Canada, consistently features as one of the world’s best food markets. And, unlike doing a self-guided tour as I did in Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem, I wanted to learn from an expert. 

Our expert, came in the form of a British-born expat called Ian. He greeted us with a warm smile and a freshly baked pain au chocolat. There were just 3 people in the group, myself and a couple from Chicago. Call it luck, or my greediness, but I was grateful for a small size group.

Before the actual eating began, Ian took us around the local vicinity, providing us a brief history lesson. Taking us to St James Cathedral and the park, it was a great introduction for a first-time visitor. It was then back to the market for the main event.

Our first stop was the Carousel Bakery, a place famous for one thing: peameal bacon rolls. A boneless cut of back bacon, wet cured and then rolled in cornmeal, it’s popular among Torontonians. The warm rolls are filled with generous slices of the bacon, and completed with plenty of melted cheese.

Other highlights included melt-in-the-mouth Portuguese pastel de natas, Polish pierogis and chocolate dipped strawberries.

By the end of the tour, we were seriously stuffed though satisfied. Better yet, we were able to take home any of the leftover food to minimise any waste.

The tour lasted around 3 hours and was excellent value for money. If Toronto is on your list of places to visit in the future, do your palate a favour and add the Culinary Adventure Co. to your itinerary.

For more information, visit The Culinary Adventure Co.
St. Lawrence Market Food Tour
Cost: Adult $76 CAD | $56 USD, Seniors & Children (6 – 12) $71 CAD | $52 USD

1.3 Mexico

1.3.1 Playa del Carmen **

by Chris from 48 Hours Somewhere

On a recent visit to Mexico, we took the opportunity to sample local cuisine through an organised Taco Tour. A quick hop in a minibus from our hotel in Akumal to Playa del Carmen.  The tour was run through Cancun Adventures and we were advised to skip lunch, advice I’m glad we took!  

To start this little food adventure, we were taken to a small bar and given a brief history of how true Cochinita Pibil was made – whole suckling pig roasted with the juice of Seville oranges. We were also given the opportunity to make our own tortillas with a tortilla press. We drank a nice Mexican beer, while we watched everyone else’s efforts.  The participation events continued as we split into teams to make a salsa against the clock.  Then it was time for what we were there for… Taco’s.  The Cochinita Pibil was served with some tortilla and the salsa we just made. There was enough for 2 or 3 each and quickly devoured by everyone. To finish off the visit a taste of traditional Mexican beverage, Pulque.

Next stop was a local market stall and an introduction of local fruits and vegetables, before jumping back in the minibus. After a quick drive across town, we enjoyed an Al Pastor Taco – sliced spit roasted pork served with pineapple. Before tasting, we played a game where you tried to catch the pineapple as it was sliced and flicked of the spit! With this tasting, there was enough for 2 or 3 tacos each, which we happily washed down with a local beer.

Finally, for the traditional tacos, we went to Don Sirloin’s for Carne Asada, or beef steak tacos.  No fun and games this time, but another thoroughly enjoyable taco.  

It was probably a good place to end the evening as I think everyone was totally stuffed. But one final surprise was a walk down the road to enjoy a “savoury taco” to finish the night off – I won’t spoil it for those who want to find out but I will say everyone managed to find room!

For more information, visit Cancun Adventures.
The Taco Tour
Currently, there is an automatic 40% discount on bookings.
Normal cost: $99 USD per person
Cost with current promotion: $59.40 USD per person

1.4 United States

1.4.1 New York City

by Stefan from BerkeleySquareBarbarian

During my last visit to NYC I joined the 3-hour Tenements, Tales, and Tastes Tour run by Urban Adventures. The tour kicks off in Downtown Manhattan, then meanders through China Town and Little Italy towards the Lower East Side. Our friendly, knowledgeable guide Bruce turned out to be a published travel writer.

After a quick stop in the notorious Five Points neighbourhood portrayed in “Gangs of New York”, our first ‘proper’ stop was at the non-descript Chinese snack bar Fried Dumpling in a side street on the edge of China Town. We were served some of the tastiest dumplings we’ve had in a long while.

A few minutes later we were on our way through the streets of China Town towards Little Italy, zigzagging our way past street food stalls and a few tiny street markets. We learned how many of the poor immigrants’ dishes were the result of coping with shortages. The cuts used for the absolutely amazing pastrami at Katz’s Delicatessen’s, for example, would be virtually inedible if it weren’t for the complex preparation processes.

Our next food stop was at America’s oldest cheese shop: Alleva Dairy, established in 1892. The master cheese maker behind the counter explained the delicate mozzarella production process, while an assistant offered us each a large ball of mozzarella and some fine cured ham. The pride our host held for his produce was infectious.

We stopped at various other places, until we arrived at Yonah Schimmel Knishery, founded in 1910, probably my favourite stop of the tour. This eatery just has so much character! Oh.. and the knishes!!

Sitting down for the first time, all of us started chatting with each other. We continued the conversations on the short walk over to Loreley Beer Garden, where the tour finished with some German pretzels.

For more information visit, New York City Urban Adventures.
Tenements, Tales, and Tastes
Cost: $79 USD

1.4.2 Seattle

It’s literally impossible to visit Seattle without a trip to Pike Place Market. One of the oldest continuously operating farmers markets in the US (opened in 1907), Pike Place overlooks Elliott Bay in Seattle. While Savor Seattle offers several different food tours, I opted for the VIP Early Access Tour, to Pike Place Market. The VIP Early Access Tour is limited to 12 people, and is held earlier in the day, so you can avoid tourists crowds.

One of the things I appreciated most about the tour, was its recognition of the history of Pike Place. Prior to World War II, as much as 80% of the vendors were Japanese-American farmers selling their produce. Following Executive Order 9066 issued by President Roosevelt, Japanese-Americans were forcibly relocated to internment camps. In a matter of days, their homes, farms, and businesses were abandoned. Following the war, many Japanese-Americans did not return to their original home. Today, in Pike Place, there are no Japanese-American vendors.

Going back to the tour itself, you’ll visit the famous Honest Biscuits and pair it with some local Seattle coffee (for those coffee enthusiasts!). After all, not only is Seattle home to Starbucks’ first location (which you’ll see), but it is famous for coffee roasting and coffee supply chain management. Little known fact! Let’s not get too carried away with coffee – you’ll also try out local specialties like maple bacon donuts (yummmm) and hot smoked salmon (super yummm). And, if you’re feeling adventurous, you could catch a flying fish!

For more information, visit Savor Seattle Tours.
VIP Early Access Tour
Cost: $55.99 USD (+$3 Fri-Sun)

2. Asia

2.1 Hong Kong

by Katie from What’s Katie Doing?

I did the After Dark Food Crawl in May 2018 with Hong Kong Food Crawlers. Led by owner and guide Ashley, a HK local who has also guided Jon Hamm and Richard Ayoade on Channel 4’s Travel Man, we were in for a local eating treat! The tour visits 5 different food stops, starting with a very local market bustling with street food stalls. 

We started off with some grilled meats on a stick, followed by Taiwanese savoury pancakes, while learning more about the culture between Hong Kong and Taiwan. Next up, a great Hainanese chicken rice place! This classic dish is poached chicken served with rice, chili sauce and cucumber garnish. Whilst it’s associated mostly with being a Singaporean national dish, there is a version in most Asian countries with diaspora from Hainan in Southern China. 

We then went sweet with a Hong Kong classic – egg waffles, from a shop that has been run by the same family since the 1950’s. We ate these waffles traditional style, with peanut butter, condensed milk and crunchy peanuts – divine!  

Then via the Metro, onto Causeway Bay! Here we visited a snake specialty restaurant. We had Cantonese roasted meat, a nourishing Chinese bone broth and there was snake soup for those who dared… (and also snake shots!) 

We rounded off the evening with soft serve ice cream, including matcha and black sesame flavours. Here you would normally part ways from Ashley, however we were all up for a drink, so Ashley took us to a local mezcal bar that she normally visits on her Hidden Bar Crawl. I was impressed to find a mezcal that used similar botanicals to my favourite drink = gin.

For more information, visit Hong Kong Food Crawlers
After Dark Food Crawl
Cost: $90 USD

2.2 Japan

2.2.1 Osaka

If you’re looking for the freshest sushi and sashimi you can find on a food tour, look no further than All Star Osaka and their special foodies tour. It’s a private tour, so costs are a little bit higher. Since it’s a private tour, you can select what your main course will be – we chose sushi!

Our tour started in the Tsuruhashi market, a fish market normally only a wholesale fish market. All Star made special agreements with some of the vendors to allow us tastings of traditional japanese pickled foods, nato (fermented bean paste), super fresh tuna, sea urchin, octopus, and freshly ground wasabi! All the seafood were only caught earlier that day in Osaka Bay! The sushi restaurant was hidden in the nooks and crannies of the fish market and only fit less than 10 customers. It’s known for its “dancing shrimp” whose tail flickers to prove its freshness. (If this isn’t your thing, maybe the udon or takoyaki main “tracks” would be better for you!)

There were other stops in Shinsekai, but I won’t give it all away. We ended the tour in Dotonburi, with a sake tasting. If you’re not completely full by then, Dotonburi is a great place to sample local foods from street vendors too!

2.3 Malaysia

2.3.1 Kuala Lumpur **

by Helen from Differentville

The man standing behind the hot plate in the middle of the street outside a shopping mall might not look like he’s producing one of Kuala Lumpur’s must-try dishes, but one bite through the crispy batter into the perfectly sweet banana and you can see why the Banana Fritter Man is a must stop on this food tour that covers the diverse cuisine of Kuala Lumpur.

You meet in trendy Bangsar, then wander through the backstreets and alleys to explore the food-filled areas of Brickfields and Little India. On the way you visit the flower market, try sticky Indian sweets and an Indian buffet chosen by the stall holder from his best dishes of the day. After a visit to the small Sam Kow Tong Temple, you stop for cendol – shaved ice topped with creamy milk – and the famous banana fritter and just when you think this means the tour is done, you hop on the train to Chinatown for even more food!

I’d been to KL about six times before I took this tour, and has tried quite a lot of fun things for foodies in the city,  but I tried foods on it, I’d never had before simply because I just didn’t know where was good to try them. I do now.

For more information, visit Food Tour Malaysia.
Kuala Lumpur Walk Tour
Cost: $59 USD
Cost after discount code below: $44.25 USD

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pay $40 USD for a gift voucher worth $60 USD!
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2.3.2 Penang

by Tiffany from Epicurean Expats

Tiffany has written about this tour, as well! Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

Penang’s capital city of Georgetown is a unique cosmopolitan playground for foodies. For centuries, this important trade port has been the home for Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian cultures.  If you want to go to just one place to taste all these amazing cuisines, Georgetown is the place.

Learning about the different cultures of Penang through a book just isn’t the same. To see it, taste it, and hear about it from a local is so much more personal and rewarding. The neighborhoods are dominated by one culture or another and it’s interesting to see the different architectures or observe food prepared side by side by people with different heritages.

My husband and I found A Taste of Penang: Small Group Tour and we highly recommend them. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable on the food cultures and history of Georgetown. Our tour began with a Malaysian breakfast of Nasi Lemak, then through the wet market and hawker stands of a Chinese neighborhood where we sampled nutmeg juice, Char Koay Kak and Singapore Laksa. We strolled down 5^th Avenue to admire the Art Deco shophouses, visit a Chinese pharmacy and eat at a 100-year-old Indian restaurant. We shared Nasi Kondar and Murtabak, two excellent Indian dishes.  We finished the tour through a Malaysian street market and small cafe where we each had a bowl of spicy Asam Laksa and Cendol for dessert.

This was one of our most memorable food tours, and we learned much more about the culture and cuisines than we ever expected. We feel more curious to know more about the people and cultures that live there, how they live together, what influences each have on the other, and most especially, what other great dishes are out there that we need to try.  

For more information, visit A Taste of Penang.
Cost: $47 GBP | $59 USD

2.4 Myanmar

2.4.1 Yangon **

I learned a very valuable lesson, while taking the Yangon Street Snacks tour. Go on a food tour with an empty stomach!

During my first trip to Myanmar in 2017, I stayed in Yangon only for one day. I spent most of the day sightseeing and trying local foods. To understand the food culture in many Asian countries, one needs to immerse themselves in the culture of street food. Yangon is no different. Through the Street Snacks Tour, you’ll walk through downtown Yangon and try up to 8 different street snacks! 8! See what I mean about an empty stomach?

Something I bet you didn’t realize is the prominence of chickpeas in Burmese food. You’ll try a few different varieties, plus some delicious fried fritters and delicious Shan noodles and Chinese baos. You’ll top it off with a delicious dessert drink – the falooda! A dessert drink typical of South Asia, the Burmese Falooda typically is rose flavored and has a large combination of sago, egg pudding, ice cream, rice noodles, and jelly.

See what I mean by, go on an empty stomach?

For more information visit Yangon Food Tours. If you’re looking for a Manadalay Food Tour, visit their sister company, here!

Costs range from $27 USD to $75 USD, depending on the tour, before discount!

Exclusive discount for blog readers:
5% for 1-2 travelers,
10% for 3-4 travelers.
Use discount code 5%YFTviaLannie for 1-2 persons and 10%YFTviaLannie for 3-4 persons.
Valid for Yangon Food Tours, Manadalay Food Tours, and their bamboo bike and motorbike tours.

2.5 Taiwan

2.5.1 Taipei **

by Helen from Differentville

If you want try pretty much all of the foods Taiwan is known for in one morning this tour through the backstreets of upmarket Xinyi is the one to pick.

You start sampling fruits and scallion bread at the local market. Then hit your first sit down stop for the fluffy meat-filled buns known as bao. They might be popular everywhere now, but this is them done right, clouds of steam billowing out from the baskets as person after person stops by to grab one for breakfast.

Next, it’s time to try one of the most unusual things to do in Taipei, chewing betel nut. This stimulant is sold in stalls over Taipei and it’s quite the experience causing your heart to race. And, just as it slows back down, you enter the stinky tofu restaurant. Does it taste as bad as it smells? Are you brave enough to find out?

More stops follow then just when you’re not sure you can fit in any more you get to try dumplings, learning how to slurp out the soup that makes Taiwanese dumplings famous around the world.  you’ll also visit the place the locals go to try them rather than the more touristy Din Tai Fung!

There’s a reason this tour is called the Iconic Food Tour, it really does cover all the most famous foods in Taipei – and also shows you where to get the best pick of iconic Taipei 101. Do this on your first morning in the city and you’ll get a real feel for what Taipei’s food scene is all about. Take notes on the locations though as the portions are small and you’ll want to go back to at least one of the stops for more! 

For more information, visit Taipei Eats
Iconic Food Tour
Cost: $70 USD
Cost after discount below: $63 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code LANNIE10

2.6 Thailand

2.6.1 Hua Hin **

For those who don’t know, I’ve lived in Thailand, traveled there for work, and visited for fun several times. Thailand is often called the “land of smiles” – which is one of the reason I love it so much! Well that, and not to mention the food! Oh, the food!

The last time I was in Thailand, I visited Hua Hin – original beach resort town. Starting out as a sleepy fishing village, by the 1920s, it was a favorite summer spot for Thai nobility. Located about 150 km (or 3-4 hours drive) from Bangkok, it’s the perfect beachy getaway. For those wanting to make a side trip from Bangkok, here are all the ways you can make that trip!

Back to the food! I found Feast Thailand, and of the several food tours they offer, I chose their Eat like a Local tour without hesitation. We started out our day with Guay Tiaw (noodle soups), served in coconut shell bowls to keep it piping hot. Three soups – two types of tom yum (one with coconut milk and one without) and a rich boat noodle soup (with pork meatballs, pork liver, a sprinkle of pork rinds on top!). Eating like a local isn’t for the faint hearted or (as I would later learn) for those who can’t handle the heat!

From then, we went on to try some colorful dumplings or Gui Chai. Say the word dumpling, and I’m already salivating! The dumplings ranged in flavor from (my dumpling favorite) chives, to pumpkin, to taro, among others! Served with a dipping sauce made of soy sauce, with a huge kick!

These first two courses were my absolute favorite, but it didn’t stop there! There was a visit to an outdoor food market, where we stopped at stalls eating expertly fried chicken and delicious satay. Top it all off with some Thai curries – Southern style Gaeng Kiew Wan, Green Curry and Gaeng Khua Prik Sii Khon Muu which is a pork rib curry. Top it off with the herb most commonly eaten with southern food – Maeng Luk or Lemon Basil!

I’ve said this before about other food tours, but come hungry! This tour is sure to keep you satisfied. And remember, if you want to eat like a local, that means you’re keen to try the local heat level! Mouth on fire! but in a good way!

For more information, visit Feast Thailand.
Eat like a Local
Cost: 1,350 THB | $43 USD
Cost after discount code below: 1,215 THB | $39 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code LANNIETRAVELS
Valid until 30 June 2021

2.7 Vietnam

2.7.1 Hanoi*

I delighted in the culinary wonders of Vietnam, with Hanoi Kids. Hanoi Kids employs local university students to give tours of the city, in exchange for a few hours of English conversation. You can customize the type of tour you’d like – I chose the combination of history and food! So, technically a food tour.

My guide was an enthusiastic college student, who navigated us through the windy, alleyways of Hanoi. Some of my favorites was Bánh cuốn (ground pork and mushrooms, wrapped in rice flour pancakes) and Bun Bo Nam Bo (beef vermicelli salad, common in the South of Vietnam). Both of these dishes were so fresh and light. I loved that they were topped off by fried onions or scallions or peanuts. A perfect crunch to go with it! We topped it off with Hanoi’s famous egg coffee. During a milk shortage in the time of war, whisked egg yolk was used to replace the cream. Don’t be put off by it – it was delicious!

For more information, visit Hanoi Kids.

Although the tour is free, you pay for the food, transportation, and entrance fees for both you and your guide. It still makes it extremely worthwhile. Gratuities are greatly appreciated.

3. Europe

3.1 Bulgaria

3.1.1 Sofia*

By Janina from Stromfield Adventures

Bulgaria isn’t well known for its cuisine and I guess this is one of the reasons we thought a food tour would be a great introduction to our trip. This particular tour had been recommended to us on the twitter grapevine and so we rocked up at the allotted meeting spot on our first afternoon in Sofia.

Our first stop was a patio garden in a restaurant and bread with one cheesy garlic dip and one red pepper dip, these we would find all over Sofia. Second was a more upmarket restaurant where we tasted soft cheese wrapped in courgette and lavender meringues, both delicious in totally different ways.

After this it was wine time and this wine shop sold wine ‘on tap’ for the specific reason of recycling the bottles – you buy one, drink it, bring it back and refill it, genius…. Oh yeah, and the wine (Vrachanski Misket) was fabulous. We followed this up with a stop in a street bakery for a maritsa, a bit like a cross between a doughnut and a churro – tasty!

Lastly we stopped in the Hadjidragana tavern for more dips and Pelin wine which is mixed with Artemisia absinthium during fermentation.  The atmosphere in the restaurant was so good we promptly booked it for our evening meal!

Overall, the tour was very tasty and varied, our guide was knowledgeable and we got some history thrown in with our food, we would definitely recommend this experience to others. It was ‘free’ but we thought it deserved €20 each, so that’s what we paid! 

For more information, visit Balkan Bites.
Although this tour is free (can you imagine?!), gratuities to your guide would be the right thing to do.

3.2 France

3.2.1 Dijon

Written by Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

Dijon, France offers visitors a rich history, romantic architecture, and an outstanding array of culinary specialties. (You know a city is famous for its food when it has its very own International and Gastronomic Fair every year!) But the best way to experience a sampling of everything Dijon has to offer is by taking a food tour.

The 2+ hour Dijon Market Food & City Tour is a walking tour that hits some of the best highlights of Dijon. Both history buffs and foodies alike will enjoy this tour, which includes iconic sites such as the 13^th Century Church of Notre-Dame of Dijon. Be sure to rub the little owl carving on the corner with your left hand and make a wish!

The tour also takes you to Les Halles – the oldest and largest food market in the city. This is where you can sample some of the local baked goods, cheeses, and other mouth-watering treats.

So what tasty local delights make Dijon special? Well, of course there’s the mustard. But they’re also famous for pain d’epices, or gingerbread cake, and creme de cassis, a black currant liquor.

One of the most interesting food facts we learned was that despite the fact that Dijon mustard was created here in 1856, most of the mustard seed used in local production actually comes from Canada!

For more information, visit Wine and Voyages
Dijon Market Food and City Tour
Cost: 63 EUR | $71 USD

3.3 Iceland

3.3.1 Akureyri / Reykjavik **

If you’re like me, chances are you have no idea what Icelandic food is about. When I first visited northern Iceland to chase the aurora borealis, the delights and complexities of Icelandic food were unknown to me. But I was in for a delicious, eye opening experience!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

Unfortunately, Akureyri Food Walk is no longer operating. However, if you’re in Iceland and want a food tour in Reykjavik, their sister company, the Reykjavik Food Walk is open and taking bookings.
Cost: 13,900 ISK | $101 USD
Cost after discount code below: 12,510 ISK | $91 USD

10% Discount for blog readers:
Use discount code FOODANDFUN

3.4 Ireland

3.4.1 Dublin

I will forever remember this food tour for introducing me to Murphy’s Ice Cream (the best ice cream shop in Ireland!!!) and beginning to cultivate my love of whiskey. But before we get there, let’s talk about the deliciousness and heartiness of traditional Irish food.

The tour starts at Trinity College Dublin. If you have some extra time, I highly recommend taking an hour before the food tour and visiting the Trinity College Library and the Book of Kells. Just for a brief description, the Book of Kells is a gorgeously illustrated manuscript, containing the Four Gospels of the New Testament, from 800 AD. It’s absolutely beautiful and worth the visit before your tour starts.

And now, the food! From the campus of the historical Trinity College, you set off for the first meal of the day – Irish Breakfast. Irish breakfast can’t be complete without some potato cakes and white pudding, served with a spicy tomato relish. White pudding is similar to black pudding, but does not contain blood. The rest of the ingredients, oats, pork, suet, and bread crumbs, are similar. Hearty enough for us to start our journey!

While the common belief is that there are lots of potatoes historically in Irish cuisine, I’m here to say that it’s true. I can’t recall the inner workings as to how or why potato became so important in Irish Cuisine, but it’s safe to say that at one point in time, the average Irishman was eating 40 – 60 potatoes a day. Since it was their absolute main staple, different ways of preparing potatoes emerged.

But not only are potatoes central to traditional Irish cuisine, so is Irish whiskey. We popped on over to the Celtic Whiskey Shop for a whiskey tasting, which included Powers Tyrconnell, Kilbeggan 21 Year old (now discontinued), and The Quiet Man. At the time, I preferred Irish whiskey to scotch (but now that is not the case!)

We rounded out the tour with a visit to the Hairy Lemon, a traditional Irish pub, for some Dublin Coddle (voted best in the city!). Dublin coddle is traditionally a leftover soup, with sausages, carrots, potatoes (of course!), onions and herbs. Perfect for a rainy Irish day!

As if there wasn’t enough food, we ended the day with Leo Burdocks’ smoked cod and chips. Probably the best fish and chips I’ve had! I loved the smoky flavor of the cod, which was different than your regular fish and chips!

If Irish food has piqued your interest, learn all about Irish food!

For more information, visit Secret Food Tours
Cost: 59 EUR  |  $66 USD

3.5 Italy

3.5.1 Bologna **

by Anda from Travel for a While

Anda has written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

If you’re looking for a proper food tour, you should probably head to Bologna, the official capital of food in Italy, which is saying something! Anyway, a couple of years ago we went on this food tour in Bologna and my mouth is still watering when I think about it.

The tour starts at 10 am and I strongly advise against having a full breakfast before that. First stop, an Italian breakfast-cappuccino, and a croissant.
Then, you’re off to see how traditional homemade pasta is made at a local shop. The most distinctive local pasta is ‘tortellini’, a fresh pasta usually filled with meat.

It’s time to taste some local specialties: Grana Padano cheese, mortadella, cured meat, and aceto balsamico, all from the Emilia-Romagna region.
Next, you have to try some of those tortellini. One of the traditional dishes of Bologna is ‘tortellini in brodo’, a soup with tortellini. Of course, you will try another dish Bologna is famous for, ‘pasta al ragu’, fresh pasta with a slow-cooked meat sauce.

There are a couple more things to try, a slice of pizza, gelato as well as an espresso. The tour is designed for you to see some of the most important landmarks in Bologna, hear some of their stories on also learn some of Bologna’s secrets.

For more information, visit Delicious Bologna.
Cost: 80 EUR  |  $90 USD
Cost after discount below: 72 EUR  |  $81 USD
Expert tip: Wear comfortable shoes and show up hungry!

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code TFW10

3.6 Romania

3.6.1 Bucharest

Written by Vanessa from Traveling Ness

In my travels I have become intrigued at how foods and spices are so closely tied to the culture of a country. Food is the gateway to connecting with locals on a deeper level and a bunch of fun. In researching for my trip, I stumbled upon My Secret Romania run by the lovely Gabi and Ioana. 

The 3 – 4 hour Garlic Themed Workshop is a mix of Bucharest’s history and culture while dining on traditional Romanian dishes that are all heavily garlic infused. I love anything garlic so I was immediately intrigued as to why Romanians were such big fans of garlic and how it related to superstitions aka vampires…

Normally the Garlic Themed Workshop is held in small groups with either Gabi or Ioana. But as I was visiting in December, I was fortunate enough to have a private garlic themed dinner with Ioana that was one of the best experiences I had in Romania.

Ioana met me at my hotel and we walked to a restaurant with excellent traditional Romanian foods. During the walk she pointed out various points of interest and explained much of Bucharest’s recent history and how life had changed post-communism.

Once we arrived at the restaurant, Ioana order a number of delicious dishes that all had garlic in them. My favorite was the pork sausages and boiled potatoes in pesto sauce. I won’t give away the fascinating details but I was on the edge of my seat with excitement to listen to her stories! 

She explained the history of how garlic has become a central part of Romanian culture and why it intersects with practical use, traditions, spirits, and Dracula. I enjoyed sharing a meal with the warmest company and can’t recommend this experience enough. 

For more information, visit My Secret Romania
Garlic Themed Culinary Workshop
Cost to be confirmed.

3.7 Scotland

3.7.1 Edinburgh **

Scotland may not be on the map for amazing cuisine, but it is definitely a personal favorite! On my first trip to Scotland, I was happily introduced to Scottish cuisine by Eat Walk Edinburgh on their Old Town and New Town Food Tour. On the tour, we started with deliciously fresh and light Scottish smoked salmon. We gradually moved towards heavy classic, with a whisky pairing – Haggis, Neeps and Tatties! I won’t give it all away, but for those adventurous eaters, try haggis with an open mind! We also tried black pudding with Scottish “comfort food”, paired with a bubbly gin spritzer (not shown).

Sounds like a lot of food? Don’t worry, you walk all around Old Town and New Town in between courses to aide with the digestion. Through the tour, you’ll be regaled with tales on Edinburgh’s interesting, though sometimes macabre history. You’ll walk through the curved and colorful Victoria Street. At the end, you’ll receive a map and some discounts to re-visit some of the delicious stops!

I’ve written about this tour previously. Feel free to give it a read here for all the details!

For more information, visit Eat Walk Edinburgh
Due to covid-19 and social distancing requirements, 2020 tours are only offered as private tours for your specific group.
Costs before discount below:

• 2020 food tour for 2 people is 79 GBP | $99 USD per person,
  • 3 people 75 GBP | $94 USD per person,
  • 4 people 71 GBP | $89 USD per person,
  • 5 to 8 people 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.
• 2021 tours costs 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.

Exclusive 5 GPB discount for blog readers:
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Valid until June 2021

3.8 Slovenia

3.8.1 Ljubljana

by Steven from the Thorough Tripper

Our time in Ljubljana was short – less than 24 hours.  We were in Slovenia for our wedding at nearby Lake Bled.  I figured that a food tour would be the best way to cram lots of Ljubljana history, architecture, and cuisine into our brief time there. I knew nothing about Slovene cuisine and wanted to be educated by a local.  After all, this was the country we would forever associate with our marriage. 

On our nearly 4-hour tour, we meandered through Ljubljana’s compact and beautiful old town, while stopping at various historic locations and restaurants. We sampled 9 different types of traditional Slovene food, often thoughtfully paired with Slovene wine.  We also received a general education about the wine-producing regions and types of wine in Slovenia. 

Food highlights included eating grilled sardines and squid along the river running through old town. I surprisingly enjoyed the sour turnip soup with millet and pork called Bujta Repa, served with chewy bread and pumpkin seed oil.  We ate Idrijski Žlikrofi streetside near a quiet town square in perfect weather.  This is a traditional Slovene dish of small potato-filled dumplings. Ours was served with a mushroom sauce.  

The tour finished atop the 13-storey “Skyscraper” – the Balkan’s tallest building when it was first constructed in 1933.  It’s topped by a restaurant offering 360 degree views across the city.  Here we were treated to one of Slovenia’s favorite desserts called Gibanica – a layered pastry with poppy seeds, apples, walnuts, raisins, and cheese.

All in all, a great introduction to a beautiful city and great cuisine.

For more information, visit Roundabout Travel.
Cost: 55 EUR | $62 USD

4. Oceania

4.1 Cook Islands

4.1.1 Rarotonga **

If you’ve found your way to the Cook Islands, and are looking for an amazing way to meet and get to know local Cook Islanders, and you love food, the Progressive Dinner is the thing for you! Through the course of the evening, you eat a 3-course meal at three different peoples houses! Each host shares their story and extends beautiful islander hospitality to you.

It starts off with appetizers nicluding absolutely fresh ika mata and paw paw amid a lush garden. (Don’t know what those are? I suggest you start here for the full intro to Cook Islander foods!) But in brief, ika mata is what most people would think of as poke or ceviche, but with creamy, coconut milk. And a paw paw? Well, that’s just papaya, usually with some grated coconut on top.

Before you get to the main course, you change locations to another person’s house, experiencing a different islander’s warmth and hospitality. The main course obviously has some umu, or meat cooked in an “earth oven”. That night, it was chicken, cooked in the traditional way, with a fire pit of volcanic rocks, dug into the ground, and covered with banana leaves. Let me just tell you, how absolutely delicious chicken from the “earth oven” is!! The umu chicken comes with all sorts of trimmings – noodles, rukau (Cook Islander spinach), some cole slaw, and Cook Islander poke. Cook Islander poke is not to be confused with the ika mata. Poke here is made from the chewy cassava, and is similar in nature to mochi.

You round out the evening at the home of another family, who puts a gracious dessert spread out. Dessert consists mainly of fruits and cakes. All super fresh, all delicious.

By the end of the night, not only are you exceedingly full, but you’re genuinely touched by how welcoming islanders are. You’ve literally been welcomed into the home of three Cook Islander families, and you’re left with that island magic and spirit that they imbue.

For more information, visit Cook Islands Tours
Progressive Dinner – Through Local Homes
Cost: $99 NZD | $64 USD
Cost after discount code below: $89 NZD| $58 USD

Exclusive 10% discount for blog readers:
Use discount code PDBLOG20

5. Africa

5.1 Mauritius

5.1.1 Port Louis

This tour came recommended from the only other friend that’s visited Mauritius. Basically, that’s all the recommendation I need! The History and Street Tour of Port Louis was one of the most interesting food tours I’ve ever taken! For those who don’t know, Mauritius (and its capital city of Port Louis) is a wonderful melting pot of Chinese, Indian and Muslim immigrants and their legacies. Through the tour, you explore each of these diverse cultures, its food, and their architecture. I was super excited to try 2 different kinds of Mauritian “Chinese” dumplings, called niouk yen (in the pink photos below). Both dumplings are made with chicken, chayote and tapioca flour. But the more “local” variety (on the right), has a rice flour wrapper around it, similar to a shu mai. You all know how much I love my dumplings!

An amazing part of the tour is hidden gems you get access to. Not only do you visit the Jemmah Mosque, but you get to visit some of the secret parts of it. Not only do you visit Chinatown, but also visit a Chinese community center. You also chat with shop owners whose shops have been in their families for 3-4 generations!

For more information, visit My Moris
Cost: 2700 Rupees | $67 USD

Parting Thoughts

If you’ve made it all the way through this post, you must really love the combination of food and travel! I hope you’re able to see how food can genuinely introduce you to a culture, a place, and give you a sense of warmth and comfort, all in one.

As I mentioned before, taking a food tour at the beginning of a trip can give you ideas or recommendations for restaurants or dishes to try again later on. Most of these tours require lots of walking and are done rain or shine. So get on your walking shoes, and bring an umbrella if you need to. But most importantly, go on an empty stomach and get ready to eat great food and learn the culinary culture of a place!

Warm thanks for their collaboration…

(in order from above)

Travel Bloggers

• Donna from Curious Donna
• Lisa from Following the Rivera
• Chris from 48 Hours Somewhere
• Stefan from BerkeleySquareBarbarian
• Katie from What’s Katie Doing?
• Helen from Differentville
• Tiffany from Epicurean Expats
• Janina from Stromfield Adventures
• Darlene from Thirsty Journeys
• Anda from Travel for a While
• Vanessa from Traveling Ness
• Steven from the Thorough Tripper

Food Tours

• Food Tour Malaysia – 25% off with discount code: LNXFTM
• Yangon Food Tours &  Manadalay Food Tours –  5% and 10% off with discount codes 5%YFTviaLannie for 1-2 persons and 10%YFTviaLannie for 3-4 persons
• Taipei Eats – 10% off with discount code: LANNIE10
• Feast Thailand – 10% off with discount code: LANNIETRAVELS
• Reykjavik Food Walk – 10% off with discount code: FOODANDFUN
• Delicious Bologna – 10% off with discount code: TFW10
• Eat Walk Edinburgh – 5 GBP off with discount code: LT5OFF
• Cook Islands Tours – 10% off with discount code: PDBLOG20

If you are a food or travel blogger and want to contribute to this food tour directory OR if you are a food tour operator and would like to collaborate in the future, send me a message and let’s chat!

Hungry now? Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. History of the Ministry of Crab

Ok, the Ministry of Crab isn’t a real government ministry. But the name itself suggests its powerhouse status as the leading institution for crabs in Sri Lanka. So you can see why I consider it a must eat in Colombo!

That was the premise behind the name by renowned Sri Lankan chef, Dharshan Munidasa. But not only is it the place for crab, the Ministry consistently wins accolades as Sri Lanka’s best restaurant between 2016 – 2021. Ranked by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Ministry of Crab sits at a respectable #29 in their Asia’s 50 Best sublist.

Since opening in Colombo in 2011, foodies can delight at Ministry of Crab locations in Shanghai, Manila, Maldives, Bangkok, and Mumbai. If you’re in Sri Lanka, I’d definitely recommend a visit to its original location – tucked away (and a little difficult to find) in the city’s old Dutch Hospital. Built in 1677 by the Dutch as a hospital (obviously), it now houses a plethora or restaurants and shops.

We are privileged to be serving you inside a building that was constructed over 400 years ago by the Dutch. We designed this restaurant to exemplify the beauty and history of this building, using special methods in order to preserve the floor and walls. Your chair may wobble a bit, but we hope you will enjoy such charms!

Ministry of Crab, Constitution: Article X

Ministry of Crab also has a certain Japanese flare to its menu and ambience, as Dharshan Munidasa, is half-Sri Lankan and half-Japanese. He also owns Nihonbashi, a high end Japanese restaurant in Colombo.

We treat all our ingredients with the utmost respect using techniques, which stem from Japanese culinary philosophies and practices. These same principles are employed at the finest Japanese restaurants around the world.

Ministry of Crab, Constitution: Article IV

2. Choose your crab at the Ministry of Crab

Obviously you’re not going to go to the Ministry of Crab and not eat crab. Luckily, they have a picture guide for each crab’s size, weight, and price. How I wish I weren’t eating solo that night! An OMG!!! or a Crabzilla would have been so much fun! But alas, a Medium 800 gram crab (at 9,200 LKR | $50 USD) for me.

Prices range from 6100 LKR ($33 USD) for the half kilo crab, all the way up to 39,400 LKR ($213 USD) for Crabzilla.

For those who want prawns instead, there is a similar scale which ranges from:

• 6 Black Tiger prawns at 2100 LKR ($11.35 USD),
• 1 Big Prawn (150 – 200 grams), at 2,500 LKR ($13.50 USD),
• all the way up to the Prawnzilla (500+ grams), 6100 LKR ($33 USD).

3. Select your sauce at Ministry of Crab

For both crabs and prawns,, there are different sauces for you to select from. I’ll assume you selected crab, so here are your sauce choices:

• Pepper crab – made of Black Pepper – the king of spice in Sri Lanka;
• Chili crab – made from a variety of chilies endemic to Sri Lanka;
• Garlic chili crab – (for obvious reasons) this was my choice! Described on the menu as:

This is a Ministry of Crab original where Mediterranean and Japanese food philosophies meet Sri Lankan crab. It is a blend of the distinct flavours of Italian olive oil, garlic, Sri Lankan chilli flakes, and Japanese soy sauce.

Ministry of Crab online menu

• Butter crab – the menu says that this dish is the best way to appreciate the full taste of the crabs. Best served chilled (6 hours notice required) or also eaten warm (with no notice);
• Curry crab – made with traditional Sri Lankan curry.

Me, anxiously waiting for my crab. Taking photos of every crab related item on my table. Trying to Keep Calm and Crab On, which is what my bib suggests.

Mild Tangent

I am American. In certain situations in American cuisine, you are given a bib to protect your clothes from a variety of food-related mishaps. Particularly, I can reasonably expect to receive bibs in barbecue or certain seafood restaurants. I’ve only recently discovered from my British friends that this “culture” of wearing a bib, given by a restaurant, is not only extremely foreign, but quite horrifying to them. Therefore, would you be so kind as to respond to the following poll?

Please assist me and submit a vote on “the bib” for anthropological and sociological research purposes. Thank you!

4. Sides to complement your crab

Obviously no one expects you to eat only crab for your meal. Although, considering it was just me, I probably should have. But, I wanted some veggies and spied KanKun Garlic on the menu (600 LKR | $3.24 USD). KanKun (or morning glory, or for Chinese people, kong xin cai) is one of my favorite veggies in Asian cuisine. Prepared with garlic is the simple, traditional Asian way to do it.

If you get the garlic chili crab like I did, its recommended to order their “Kade bread” to sop up all the sauce with. This is similar practice to Singapore’s chili crab, which usually comes with some mantou on the side. Unfortunately, the regular order of Kade bread is made for sharing and comes with 18 cubes of wood-fired bread. 18! 18 squares of bread cost only 400 LKR ($2.16). If you’re more than one person, it’s definitely worth it for the table!

I gave sad eyes and pleaded with my waiter to get a smaller order. He did give me a few complimentary pieces, which were greatly appreciated! By the time it arrived, I was already hands deep into my garlic chili crab, so no pictures.

Without further ado…

5. The Garlic Chili Crab – a must eat in Colombo!

Behold! The Garlic Chili Crab. 800 grams all for me.

Really delicious!! But way spicier than I expected! I felt it was more flavorful than Singaporean Chili Crab I had eaten in the past. The Ministry does its country proud! The Sri Lankan Lagoon Crab, made and flavored in Sri Lanka was delicious!

Eating crab is a marathon event, so with 800 grams of crab in front of me, it took me awhile to get through all the nooks and crannies. Halfway through, the server remembered that he promised a few pieces of Kade bread. It was so perfect to balance out the heaviness of the sauce with some light, airy bread.

6. Dessert at the Ministry of Crab

Another obvious thing, is for me to get a dessert, despite being absolutely stuffed. There are only two items on the dessert menu:

• Chocolate biscuit pudding, made from dark Belgian chocolate (900 LKR |$4.86 USD);
• and coconut creme brulee (800 LKR | $4.32 USD).

Neither are traditional Sri Lankan desserts in any way, but the coconut creme brulee at least had a twist on the regular dessert. This creme brulee is made from delicious coconut milk, and baked directly in a coconut shell.

For those who like the flavor of coconut, like I do, it was a sweet, creamy perfection!

Parting Thoughts

Although food in Sri Lanka is generally more on the affordable side, the Ministry of Crab is a pricey meal. My meal cost about $62 USD. But then again, I was determined to order some veggies and a dessert too. As I had eluded to previously, I think it would be much funner to be in a group to order a few other dishes along with the crab. I would’ve loved to try other things on their menu (i.e. prawn bisque, avocado crab salad, crab pate, among others…). So, someone find a group, and assist me in doing the necessary. And report back!

Until then, stay safe, eat lots of good food, and be happy!

Need other help with your Colombo trip planning?

• Arrive to Colombo city from the airport with a worry free airport-transfer.
• Looking for a nice place to stay in Colombo? Try searching through Mr. & Mrs. Smith – the travel club for hotel lovers!
• For other foodie adventures in Sri Lanka, how about
  • Introducing yourself to Sri Lankan Street Food with a tuk tuk tour;
  • Or stretch your legs on a walking tour of Sri Lankan Street Food;
  • Learn all about Sri Lankan cuisine and how to make your own dishes in a Sri Lankan Cooking Class!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Restaurant Information for the Best Restaurant in Sri Lanka

Ministry of Crab | map
Old Dutch Hospital Complex,
04 Hospital St,
Colombo 00100, Sri Lanka
Phone: +94 77 002 4823
Reservations Required: email reservations@ministryofcrab.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Mild disclaimer: this post is probably not the best for vegetarians or vegans,

as it has quite a “significant [amount] meat”.

Life in the time of covid requires a certain level of self amusement, that which my friend and I are rarely short of. Following our hunt for Rob Roy’s cave near Loch Ard, she casually mentioned, “We should get a Rob Roy Chicken sometime.” Woah, woah, woah… no one told me he had a chicken!

1. Introducing the Rob Roy Chicken

Ok, so that was a little misleading, but amusing. While I’m sure Rob Roy may have owned chickens at one point in his pre-outlaw days, this is in fact not what I am referring to.

A turducken is a boneless chicken stuffed into a boneless duck stuffed into a boneless turkey.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary

Rob Roy Chicken is a turducken-like meat dish. Similar to the turducken, the Rob Roy Chicken comprises of three layers of meat. And it is a hearty dish! Haggis stuffed into a chicken breast, then wrapped in two pieces of back bacon. Broken down by animal, it is sheep offals (haggis), wrapped in chicken, wrapped in pork (bacon). So, while this post is not intended for vegans, vegetarians, or the faint of heart, the Rob Roy Chicken is similarly not intended for people who don’t just absolutely love meat. And me? Guilty, as charged.

One of my favorite highlights of living in Scotland are the local butchers. In a village, they are the source for deliciously fresh cuts of meat. But also, they continuously supply me with local Scottish delights, such as amazing haggis or black pudding.

For my friend’s birthday, she decided on the Rob Roy Chicken for her birthday dinner. When we walked into the butcher shop, maintaining a socially responsible distance from the counter, we asked the butcher if we should buy one or two Rob Roy Chickens. And in case he didn’t know, it should feed the both of us. His response was, “I can easily eat one by myself.” We both looked at each other… two it is.

Your burning Rob Roy Chicken questions answered

• How did we cook it? Wrapped in aluminum foil, in the oven.
• How long did we cook it for? Well, 180°C / approx 360°F… maybe 20 – 40 minutes. Unfortunately, we hit a snafu and the oven shut off half-way through. Therefore, I can only give you a guestimate.
• Was the whisky cream sauce necessary? Yes. We made the sauce, initially fearing the chicken would turn out dry. However, with bacon juices seeping into the chicken, that may not have been the case. Trust me though, the sauce was great!
• Was it an extremely heavy meal? YES.
• Was it absolutely delicious? ABSOLUTELY YES.
• Would we eat it again? OF COURSE.

And now, for your drink pairing…

2. The Rob Roy Cocktail

Created in 1894, by a bartender at the Waldorf Astoria in Manhattan and obviously named in honor of the outlaw rebel that we now all know and love, Rob Roy continues to delight people to this day. Why was the cocktail created? For the New York opening of the Rob Roy operetta, of course! (Composed by Reginald De Koven and lyrics by Harry B. Smith). In case you’re wondering, New York Times review called it, “a thoroughly good operetta … clean, frank, manly, bright, and winsome … a right good comedy”.

For this section, I would like to introduce you to Kevin from Cocktails and Carry-Ons®, who enthusiastically answered my call on Twitter to make this cocktail pairing for my post.

🥃🍸🍹🥃🍸🍹 pic.twitter.com/spNKAil9pA

— Kevin | Cocktails and Carry-Ons® (@CocktailCarryOn) April 19, 2020

Thank you for this fun collaboration!

Without further ado…

Introducing Cocktails and Carry-Ons®

While quarantined in our Swiss apartment for the past forty days, we have been testing out classic cocktails and firming up our ‘house recipes.’ As we make our way through familiar classics, we have been eager to learn about a few more of which we are less familiar.

When Lannie’s Food & Travel mentioned an upcoming article on Rob Roy, we were thrilled to participate in the fun! Lovers of a classic Manhattan or Old Fashioned are assured to enjoy this delicious cocktail! 

The Usual Recipe

• 2oz / 60ml Scotch
• 1oz / 30ml Sweet Vermouth
• 2-3 dash Angostura Bitters
• Cherry, for garnish

Cocktails and Carry-Ons® Recipe

• 2oz / 60ml Aberfeldy 16yr Single Malt Scotch
• 3/4oz / 22ml Carpano Antica Formula Sweet Vermouth
• 3 dashes Angostura Bitters
• 2 Cherries, for garnish 

Preparation: Add scotch, sweet vermouth, and bitters over a large ice cube in a mixing glass and stir for 20 seconds or until very cold. Strain with a Hawthorne strainer into a cocktail glass and garnish with cherries. 

Enjoy and Drink Responsibly.

Parting Thoughts

Hope you enjoyed my dinner and drink pairing for this outlaw adventure. Life in the time of corona can be strange, but themed dinners may be one way of having a little fun in life! For anyone looking for some at-home cocktails to add to their own themed night, Nio Cocktails have the best ones! I always keep a few around, just in case I want a little cocktail!

Until next time, stay safe and cheers!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

When I travel, I love to experience a place through its food. Having visited Scotland three times in two years, I cannot truly say that I am an expert in either Scotland or Scottish breakfast. But, I can confidently say that I am in fact an expert in breakfast – eating it, that is. Breakfast is absolutely my favorite meal of the day. Scottish breakfasts are no different. They’re a deliciously filling way to start your Scottish adventure.

Introduction to Full Scottish Breakfast

Scottish breakfasts are very similar to a full English breakfast. In both, you’ll find rashers of bacon, sauteed mushrooms, roasted (or fried) tomatoes, beans, and eggs. However, Scottish breakfasts have additional items that make it a quintessentially Scottish meal.

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Haggis

Haggis is generally considered the National Dish of Scotland. For those who haven’t tried it, it is a savory pudding, comprised of sheep’s heart, liver and lungs, minced with onion, oatmeal, spices. Traditionally, this is all cooked from inside the casing of a sheep’s stomach. Haggis is normally served in slices.

Unfortunately for Americans, the import of haggis has been banned in the US since 1971, due to the inclusion of one ingredient. Can you guess which one? Apparently, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) specifies that no food for human consumption, made locally or abroad, can contain… sheep’s lung.

Don’t think too much about the ingredients and give it a try!

Black pudding

Another savory pudding, black pudding is typically found in British and Irish cuisines. Black pudding is a blood sausage, typically made with pork’s blood (but also cow or sheep), along with oats, spices, fat and/or barley. Some of the herbs and spices typically used: mint, marjoram, thyme, and pennyroyal.

Normally, Scottish breakfast has either black pudding or haggis. My guess is because both are very hearty, filling proteins. Breakfast at the Cromlix Hotel includes both!

Lorne sausage

For clarification purposes, a lorne sausage is a “square sausage” made from minced meat, rusk (twice-baked bread), and spices. The sausage in the above photo from Cromlix is not a Lorne sausage. And all of my research seems to suggest that the only reason this sausage is special is because it’s square-shaped. If anyone has any commentary on the Lorne sausage, I am happy to hear it!

Update, as of 25 March 2020: Having now had the time to visit a Scottish supermarket, I was so pleased to find Lorne sausage. They were indeed square shaped patties. When fried up with breakfast, the outside was crunchy, and it was heavy and dense due to the rusk. Absolutely delicious!! The photo is from a “breakfast for dinner” I made, here in Scotland, hence the random roasted veggies along with eggs and Lorne sausage.

Tattie Scone

Well, first of all, a “tattie” is a potato. Therefore, a tattie scone is … yep! You guessed it, a potato scone! They’re much thinner than scones that you would normally think of. In fact, I would say they’re as thin as a piece of pita bread or a thick tortilla! See the tattie scones in the below post? Don’t they look like tortillas?

Other Traditional Scottish Breakfasts

Scottish hospitality

One thing that I will say is that Scottish hospitality is just amazing! So much so that the below is the breakfast spread for one person – me! This was at an Airbnb, when I stayed up in the North Highlands, near Wick. With Scotland and their amazing hospitality, you will never go hungry!

Restaurants listed in this post:

1. The Edinburgh Larder | map
15 Blackfriars St, Edinburgh
Daily 8 am – 4 pm.
(Saturday and Sunday from 8:30 am)

2. Southern Cross Cafe | map
63A Cockburn St, Edinburgh
Daily 8 am – 5 pm.
(Saturday and Sunday until 6 pm)

3. Cromlix Hotel | map
Kinbuck, Near Dunblane, Perthshire
Hotel breakfast for guests

4. White Cottage Tea Room | map
Main Street, North Kessock, Inverness
Tues – Sun 8 am – 4 pm.

Scottish breakfast at the White Cottage Tea Room, near Inverness. The egg is a little too runny for my taste, but the tattie scone, was delicious.

Post got you hungry?

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Given the current situation in Myanmar, I cannot recommend making any travel plans to this country. Please refer to your government’s travel safety guidelines ahead of making any travel plans.

This time, 2019, I would be in Yangon for several days. Armed with what will henceforth be known as “Elelta and Dana’s Yangon Foodie Guide,” I tasted a variety of Burmese cuisine, from ethnic Wa foods to foods from the Shan state, to traditional Chinese food (from Myanmar’s large Chinese diaspora!). I tried it all, with a variety of cocktails and tropical fruit juices to wash it down with.

So behold.

The Dana and Elelta Yangon Foodie Guide

Brief Introduction to Elelta and Dana, and the Yangon Foodie Guide

As part of my insane travel schedule/life, in November 2019, I traveled from Afghanistan to the Maldives. And by December, I had to be in Austria for graduation. Where to fill the time, with the world as my oyster?

Of the people I have met through my life in Kabul, three of them had or now have connections to Myanmar. Two of the three lived and worked there previously. And though I didn’t know it at the time, but a third would be moving there by the end of 2019. The choice of Yangon literally went like this:

L: We could do Yangon.
There’s a little more character than BKK (Bangkok)

D: Waaaaay more character.
And I do really love Yangon
For a long weekend we can eat well and go to some cute places

Dana was all for picking Yangon. But what about Elelta? I didn’t know it at the time, but when asked to pick a country that you felt had impacted you the most, Elelta chose Myanmar, because of her experiences from living there before. Mine? Cook Islands. Someone else? Lebanon. Another? Yemen. Ya, we are a diverse group of humans. All gathered together in Afghanistan, of all places. Back to Yangon before I get too nostalgic..

The idea for a long weekend in Yangon was born out of the promise of eating well and the hope of being positively impacted for life.

And that is the premise behind the creation of the Yangon Foodie Guide. Without further ado…

1. Rangoon Tea House (RTH)

As I was thinking of how to describe the Rangoon Tea House, or RTH to the expat community, the phrase “grand dame” of Yangon restaurants kept popping into my head. Although it’s probably not an apt description in technicality, that’s what I want to call it. The Grand Dame of Yangon.

When I was in Yangon, I visited the Rangoon Tea House twice, at different times of the day. And both times, it was completely packed to the brim. There is also an upstairs bar/seating area (where the restrooms are) but I never saw them seat anyone in that section.

As a Yangon Foodie, doesn’t this look delicious?

Please allow me to introduce the utter delightful dishes I ate at RTH. Yes. This is one person’s consumption – no judgment.

• Soft-shelled crab bao – absolutely delicious. It combines two things I love – soft shell crabs and baos. For me, it wasn’t a knife and fork action, but a “take a huge bite and hope for the best” method.
• Nan Gyi – thick rice noodles, with crispy (shrimp, I think) chips and shredded chicken. Because of the curry paste (I think), it was a little dry, similar to the dry like peanut butter. However, the order comes with a little bowl of broth or consomme to wash it down. You can order it with either chicken or fish cakes.
• The famous pennywort salad (myin kwa ywet thoke) – this was probably my absolutely favorite thing at RTH! Pennywort is a leafy vegetable uncommon to western cuisine, which I have rarely encountered in my food adventures. The salad was absolutely delightful, and the crispy shallots on top were to die for. The lime added a light and refreshing touch to it. I ordered this both times I went to RTH – it’s that good!
• Grilled pork neck – for someone who has been living in a Muslim country and thus deprived of pork, this grilled pork neck was quite possibly one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten – period! Tender, fragrant and grilled to perfection! Described on the menu as “200g tender pork neck marinated overnight in tea leaf tapenade, grilled over an open fire” 6500 ks | $4.40 USD
• The BFF dessert – right when you enter RTH, there is a large display counter of all of their desserts. Do yourself a favor and get one!! They are delicious. The BFF comes highly recommended!
• Salted caramel brownie with vanilla ice cream – Ok, really… could this ever go wrong??? No. It was a little too big for one person, given all that I had eaten already. But REALLY. GOOD. 7500 ks | $5 USD

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but recommended by the Yangon Foodie Guide: banana blossom salad!)

Unfortunately, I cannot find a good version of the menu online, so I could only include the prices for the grilled pork neck and the brownie. Ironically, the brownie was probably the most expensive thing that I ordered, at 7500 ks. Also, I think RTH is classed as a $$$ restaurant in most lists. As an expat, and given the long list of things I ordered above, (and if you add in cocktails, which I hear are great at RTH) you could probably easily spend $15-20 USD at RTH.

Rangoon Tea House: Ultimate decision: absolutely worth it and amazing! For foodies and non-foodies alike! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

2. Root Kitchen and Bar

Root is a delightful “ethnic Wa” restaurant, located in the 5th ward of downtown Yangon. The Wa people are an ethnic group who live primarily in northern Myanmar (in parts of Shan and Kachin States) and Yunnan, China. The food at ROOT is a wonderful blend of modern and traditional flavors, and their cocktail menu, fun and exciting. The food is also intended to be served tapas/family-style, so everyone can try some of each dish. However, being the solo traveler that I am, that just means I’ll still order a bunch and eat it all. Behold – my first Wa experience!

• Grilled pork belly (Regular order) – The first thing that came out was this amazing grilled pork belly. So tender and expertly grilled. 5500 ks | $3.75 USD
• Wa Tang Clan cocktail – How could you not order a cocktail with this name? Not to be confused with the Wu Tang Clan, the WA Tang Clan is Gold Rum, cinnamon syrup, lemon, ginger, and ginger ale. Deliciously made. I want to go back and try more of their cocktails! 7000 ks | $4.75 USD
• Stir fry beef with bamboo shoots – I think if I had to rank each of these dishes at ROOT, this may be my least favorite, although it was still really delicious! I think the bamboo shoots were slightly pickled and had a bit of a sour taste. Maybe you don’t know, but I am not a huge fan of pickles or pickling. But I am a huge fan of bamboo. For me, I guess what I wanted was regular bamboo shoots and beef. But alas. Still really good, and worth a try! 6500 ks | $4.40 USD
• Stir fry green beans with minced pork – This is just a classic dish in many ethnic Chinese cuisines. Very rarely can a restaurant mess up a green beans and pork. Classic and nostalgic. 5000 ks | $3.40 USD

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but recommended by the Yangon Foodie Guide: moik! Moik is made from brown rice, and is like a “Wa risotto”. The pumpkin moik or beef or pork were specifically recommended. The Wa people eat three different kindsm of moik: dry, wet and soupy. ROOT mainly serves the wet moik.)

ROOT was definitely one of my favorites too. My only regret was that I didn’t have more meals in Yangon in order to go and try more different Wa foods. I loved everything I ate, but especially that grilled pork belly and Wa Tang Clan cocktail!

The regular menu can be found here. There is also a “visual menu” found here, which also provides an introduction to the Wa peoples and cuisine.

ROOT: Ultimate decision: So, so good! and fun to try a new cuisine! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

3. Xi Yang Yang Xiao Long Bao – 喜洋洋小籠包

Anyone who knows me, knows that Xiao Long Bao (or “XLB” as seasoned connoisseurs will call it) are probably my all time favorite thing to eat. Din Tai Fung (the famous Taiwanese franchise) is an age-old favorite. Wherever there is a Din Tai Fung, there will be a Lannie eating an XLB and a pork-chop fried rice. Now, XLBs are obviously not Burmese cuisine, but rather Shanghaiese in nature. The Chinese diaspora brings the XLB to Yangon. Right now, the ethnic Chinese population in Myanmar stands at about 30-40% of the population. So, it’s not totally out of left field that a Chinese restaurant makes it onto the Yangon Foodie Guide.

Before I go into the food, I wanted to comment on the first photo of just the table settings. You’ll see that the bowls, tea cup, and plate are all covered in plastic wrap. Though wasteful, it’s supposed to denote that these bowls have been expertly sanitized for your clean eating experience. This is very typical in Asia and you’ll come across this in many different countries.

I have so many questions about this. Does this mean that they outsource all of their dishes to a company to wash and then wrap up? Or do they have a wrapping machine in the back that washes and wraps? If you’re going to wash it yourself, do you need to wrap it? So many questions.. But I digress, and onward to the food!

• Beef noodle soup – I ordered this because of nostalgia. I have very fond memories of regular, if not weekly, beef noodle soups when I was in college. Beef noodle soup is also a favorite meal in Taiwan, where I spent a lot of time in my youth. This one at Xi Yang Yang did not disappoint! Served with thick noodles typical to a beef noodle soup, and with flavors reminiscent of my past. I don’t know how much this cost, but it should be fairly reasonable.
• The Xiao Long Bao – pork soup dumplings. For me, the general rule of thumb is, if there are soup dumplings on the menu, don’t faff around and try ones with different flavors – i.e shrimp, crab, truffle, whatever. You name it, I’ve probably tried it and felt disappointed by it haha. Go for the classic pork. The XLB has two main components to grade the experience on: the soup and the skin. There needs to be an adequate amount of soup. The soup cannot have dried up or been lost due to a puncture in the dumpling skin. I am happy to say that not only was there adequate soup, which was extremely flavorful, but the dumpling skin also maintained its integrity throughout the eating experience. This is a bold thing to say, but I feel comfortable in saying this – on par with Din Tai Fung. 2000 ks | $1.35 USD for 4 pcs, 4000 ks | $2.70 USD for 8 pcs.

(Not pictured and not tried by yours truly, but things I would have liked to try: pork chop fried rice, scallion pancakes, black sesame buns! Sounds great, doesn’t it?)

Xi Yang Yang was everything that I wanted out of a nostalgic Chinese meal, full of all of my favorites.

Sincerely, someone who has gone around the world and tasted tons of beef noodle soups and xiao long baos in their day.

Xi Yang Yang: Ultimate decision: Get yourself there immediately! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

4. Shan Yoe Yar

Shan Yoe Yar is a restaurant specializing in ethnic Shan cuisine. The Shan people are part of the Tai ethnic group, based in South China and Southeast Asian. The Shan mostly reside in the Shan State, but also in the Mandalay Region, Kachin and Kayin States in Myanmar. Outside of Myanmar, the Shan people inhabit communities in Thailand, Laos, India, and south China.

Shan Yoe Yar has multiple locations, including its original one housed in a renovated teak house in the Lanmadaw district of Yangon. I went to the location in Sule Plaza, due to its close proximity to the Sule Pagoda. If you go to the Sule Pagoda for vibrant sunset, it’s only a 5 minute walk to Sule Plaza for a nice dinner at Shan Yoe Yar. Tourism and food in one!

When I walked into Shan Yoe Yar at Sule Plaza (a shopping mall in downtown), I was excited to order a famous Shan noodles. I had tried them previously, at 999 Shan Noodles and liked it. I looked all over the menu at Shan Yoe Yar and did not see it. When my server finally arrived, I asked about it, and apparently there is a breakfast menu where the noodles are! Shan people typically eat their Shan noodles for breakfast, but is also eaten at any time of day. Makes sense! Now, with both menus, I was ready to go.

• Shan Noodles (khao swe) – thin rice noodles with chicken or pork, cooked in tomatoes, which is served either dry or with broth (soup). I got the dry version, which came with soup on the side. However, it’s not dry as you would think. It’s still sopping in broth, and by the time you start to eat it, the rice noodles have absorbed a lot of the flavor of the broth. Delicious!
• Chinese kai lan with stir fried pork rinds – this dish was just ok. I was in the mood for a large veggie dish, and that certainly fit the bill! The pork rinds added a nice salty flavor but I thought the texture distracted from it. I’d never eaten cooked pork rinds before and the crispiness turns into a sogginess.

I washed all of this down with a delightful papaya juice. If I had more time, more meals available or more stomach, I would have loved to try a smattering of other dishes. I think perhaps with the kai lan, I just chose wrong. It’s also possible that dining at the original location in the teak house would have been more of an experience than a restaurant inside a shopping mall. All things to consider for the future! I could find a copy of the English menu online, but this restaurant would be in the $$-$$$ range.

Shan Yoe Yar: Ultimate decision: Try it out and go to the teak house for an experience! Go with friends and try more dishes and report back. ⭐⭐⭐ 1/2

5. Sarkies Bar at the Strand Hotel

If RTH is the Grand Dame of Yangon, the Strand Hotel would be the male equivalent. I present to you, the Major Domo of Yangon – The Strand Hotel. Built in 1901, this Victorian-hotel was once the most luxurious, opulent hotel in the British empire. If I were going to the hotel back in the day, I would not be allowed in because I am non-white. The luxury was originally intended only for white clientele. Thankfully we are living in the 21st century now.

The Yangon Foodie Guide also includes great cocktails.

It was a hot, Burmese afternoon when I walked into Sarkies Bar at the Strand Hotel. You come in from off the streets, where the street vendors sell fruit and street snacks, and the sun beats down on you. You’re transported from hot Yangon, to an air conditioned, Victorian hotel of yesteryear. It was quiet and empty for the afternoon, and perfect for a cocktail. I had arrived during happy hour, so there was a selection of cocktails for $7 USD.

I chose the Strand Sour, which sounded like it’s signature cocktail. Mandalay rum, lime, sugar and bitter. Absolutely refreshing!

Sarkies Bar: Ultimate decision: Luxurious, opulent, and likely expensive outside of happy hour. The Strand Sour was fantastic though! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

6. Sofaer & Co

Back in 1906, the Sofaer & Co building was commissioned by the son of an Iraqi immigrant to Yangon and served as a center for commerce during its time. It was renovated in 2016 and converted into a restaurant named after its original name. The ceramic tiles are particularly special, a geometric pattern of green, gold, burnt sienna and lapis lazuli, shipped directly from Manchester, UK, at the time of construction. The steel beams supporting the ceiling come from Lanarkshire Steel Company in Scotland. Pretty cool, isn’t it? What kind of restaurant would a building named “Sofaer & Co” house? Mekong-fusion cuisine. I was super excited to try this!

When I arrived at Sofaer, I promptly ordered a Pansodan Old Fashion, 7000 ks | $4.75 USD. The first one I ordered is on the left. Is it just me or does it look like water with a little orange coloring in it? I complained and got a second one. Though still watered down, it was better. For $4.75 USD, I wasn’t going to complain a third time, and decided to just go find a proper cocktail when I was done.

I heard a story that the restaurateur’s mother used to be a bun cha street vendor in Hanoi. That made me even more excited, despite drinking water and whisky while waiting for my food. Vietnamese food (especially bun cha) is one of my favorite cuisines, which I do not get enough of while living on the go!

• Morning glory salad – I love morning glory as a vegetable. It’s also known as water spinach (or kangkong) and very popular in Asian cuisine. This salad had a very generous portion of beef and an oversized shrimp chip that came with it. It was good, flavorful. But a little too meaty for something that I wanted as a salad.
• Bun Cha – Most times I walk into a Vietnamese restaurant, I will order some bun cha and possibly some egg rolls. Although I hadn’t had bun cha in over a year at this point, I hoped it would be phenomenal, but it was just average. And while average bun cha isn’t bad, it was a disappointment considering I hadn’t had it for so long.
• Mango sticky rice – I was really looking forward to this mango sticky rice. I flew through Bangkok on my way to Yangon, and usually when I am in the Bangkok airport, I buy a mango sticky rice to go. But I was so exhausted from my flight, I didn’t manage to this time. So Sofaer for the win! Right? Wrong. I expected some coconut milk drizzle on the sticky rice, but it was dry, which made the actual sticky rice flavorless. With most foods, I don’t like a lot of sauces or drizzle, but come on. Mango sticky rice has to have the coconut drizzle. and lots of it! Disappointment…

This was the most disappointing meal that I had during my time in Yangon. From the watered down old fashion, to the meaty salad, and the underwhelming mango sticky rice.

Sofaer & Co: Ultimate decision: Skip this, but maybe stop by to see the old building ⭐1/2

7. Gekko

If you went to Sofaer & Co and wound up disappointed as I did, fear not. Gekko, a Japanese restaurant known for its yakitori grill and cocktail lounge, is on the other side of the Sofaer building (and around the corner). Luckily, you can marvel at the ceramic tiles from Manchester and the steel beams from Scotland in a trendy new setting, while drinking a delightful cocktail.

When I came to Gekko, during their happy hour, I really just wanted a snack and a cocktail. I promptly ordered two salmon hand rolls (unpictured) and a Hanami old fashioned for 4000 ks $2.72. I rounded out the evening with a dram of Kirin Whisky’s Oak Master. It was nice…but I like my scotches better. (… is that the plural of scotch? scotchs? ..)

I bet the yakitori there is great too. Just based on my limited experience of salmon rolls and whisky cocktails, I still really enjoyed it.

Gekko: Ultimate decision: Really fun place with great drinks and sushi! ⭐⭐⭐⭐

8. Babett at Hotel G

When I was in Yangon, I stayed downtown at the Hotel G. The hotel stay was great but also so was the restaurant downstairs. From the expat community, I hear Babett is the place to go to for a nice brunch. I had breakfasts covered in my stay, so I never tried their actual brunch service. But I can say from just my regular hotel breakfasts and my lunch at Babett when I first arrived, the food is delicious!

• Mohinga – Generally considered the national dish of Myanmar, Although normally a breakfast food, hawker or street stalls everywhere serve Mohinga throughout the day. Because I had my mohinga at a hotel breakfast, it would of course be a little different than the street variety. At its core, mohinga is fish soup and chickpea flour. I loved how the chickpea flour thickens up the fish broth and gives a little cushion to mute the fishy flavor. The rice vermicelli also soak up the broth, which give the noodles this wonderful flavor and richness. I loved the fried fritters on top to add a crunchiness and texture to the noodles.

It is served with rice vermicelli, dressed and garnished with fish sauce, a squeeze of lime, crisp fried onions, coriander, spring onions, crushed dried chillis, and, as optional extras, crisp fried fritters such as split chickpeas (pè gyaw) (ပဲကြော်),^[2]urad dal (baya gyaw) (ဘယာကြော်) or gourd (bu thee gyaw) (ဗူးသီးကြော်) or sliced pieces of Chinese donuts (အီကြာ‌ကွေး), as well as boiled egg and fried nga hpè fish cake (ငါးဖယ်ကြော်).

From Wikipedia’s description of Mohinga

• Please note that mohinga is not served on the regular or brunch menu, and is only available as a breakfast option for hotel guests. However, I wanted to introduce you to mohinga (the national dish) and give you an option for western dining. I don’t need to introduce my carbonara pasta and grilled asparagus (or provide a rating for it), which I had ordered off of the regular menu at Babett. But just a quick comment to say it was delicious and if I needed a solid western meal, Babett is the place to go for it.

9. Allamanda Inn

Numbers 1-8 on the Foodie Guide have all been vetted and eaten by yours truly. For this entry, the recipient of the original Foodie Guide, stayed at the Allamanda Inn and has kindly offered a photo and review, in the form of a haiku.

#YangonFoodieReviewHaiku

The steak at the Inn,

that is named Allamanda,

is okay. Thumbs Up.

-A

So, in case people are wondering about the description – why “okay”? why “thumbs up”? The answer is simple – really amazing, great steaks are rare and expensive. “Okay” steaks, on the other hand, are plentiful. But especially when you are an expat living in Southeast Asia, a steak deemed as just “okay” is in fact a “thumbs up.” It’s pretty darn good and was never going to be earth shattering. (I hear). But also, the review in haiku form is a nod to our dear friend who is currently championing the hashtag #humanitarianhaiku on Twitter.

Besides the steak, Elelta noted Allamanda’s great tagines and salads. While this review will not have a rating in the end, come for the steak (or salads), stay for the delightful garden. And see if you can come up with a better #YangonFoodieReviewHaiku for Allamanda. It’ll be fun, trust us!

10. All others I did not try, but are included in the Yangon Foodie Guide:

Both Dana and Elelta inundated me with so many food recommendations that I could not eat all of them in the time span of 4 days! The below are some places that I did not have time to try, but were included in the original guide. These locations are mostly outside of downtown Yangon, and are included in the Google Map below.

• Sharky’s – an artisan-based restaurant, which promotes local and organic foods, with locations in Yangon and Bagan! I visited the Bagan location years ago and the was really delicious and fresh. There are several locations in Yangon, including one next door to Rangoon Tea House! Be like Elelta and go for ice cream at Sharky’s on Sundays!
• Yangon Bake House – Elelta specifically recommended this bakery, as she used to live near this shop and it would be her weekend breakfast joint. Yangon Bake House also supports women’s initiatives, giving apprentice opportunities to empower women with disabilities.
• Onyx Wine Tree – despite the name, this is a Korean steak house!
• Cask 81 – a whiskey bar with great reviews and a shred of lingering regret that I didn’t visit! (Cask 81 is currently in the process of relocating. Check the link for updates on their progress!)
• Fuji – Elelta describes it as the place for sushi in Yangon, whereas Dana’s description places the caveat on being “for sushi in Yangon”. Wherever the emphasis, this (or Gekko during happy hour) would be your sushi fix.

Parting Thoughts

Firstly, a general comment about service in Yangon. You’re better off if you recognize that the service industry is still in its infancy, and make efforts to proactively flag down servers whenever you need something. Don’t wait – you may be waiting forever.

All in all, Yangon is a delicious destination. I think that Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, the obvious culinary powerhouses in the Mekong region, tend to overshadow Burmese cuisine and Myanmar as a foodie destination. But the food and cocktail scene in Yangon is going through a renaissance and I cannot wait to go back and try more food!

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Looking for a place to stay in Yangon?

Look no further than Hotel G, a wonderful boutique hotel in downtown Yangon! Click below to read a review, and click here to book!

Disclosure: Please note that the above booking link in this post is an affiliate link and if you go through them to make a hotel booking, I will earn a commission. I share these links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a booking through these links.

Need some ideas on things to do in Yangon?

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Acknowledgements

I would not have made this Foodie Guide were it not for Dana and Elelta, the authors of the guide, and Anthony, the original recipient of the guide. As a travel blogger, I find inspiration everywhere, including from those nearest to me. No clue who these people are? I introduce them in this post. Enjoy or dislike the food highlighted in our guide? Leave a comment for Elelta and Dana! or me!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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