If you are pressed for time, flying into the Islay Airport is definitely an option, via regular flights from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair.  However, it can be a little pricey for the cost-conscious, and can cost an average of 150£ for a round trip, per person.

And before you ask, nope! There are no Glasgow to Islay train options!

So, onwards to the public transportation option to Islay!

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1. Cost breakdown on getting to Islay from Glasgow, by bus & ferry

By using only public transport to Islay, it will cost you from 69 GBP round trip (without a car) from Glasgow, with the most expensive part being the bus. 

1. Bus 500 from Glasgow airport to Glasgow central: 9£ – one way (14.80£ discounted return);
2. Bus 926 from Glasgow to Kennacraig: 22.40£ – one way
   • 💡Expert tip: the return ticket is only 1£ more, so buy them both at the same time to save money!
   • You must book the bus in advance;
3. CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen / Port Askaig: 7.10£ per person – one way
   • (or if you are driving from Glasgow to Kennacraig, and taking your car on the ferry: the passenger ticket, plus 35.55£ – one way)

So, for one person, the one way cost from Glasgow airport to Islay is: 38 GBP! Pretty good, right?

While Islay is accessible from other points across Scotland, this post mainly focuses on taking public transport to Islay from Glasgow.  Glasgow is the major hub to us Ileachs (what we call local folks on Islay), and the place where most of us go for our mainland fix.  Don’t get me wrong, island life is an absolute delight, but sometimes you want a little break from village life.  Anyway, I digress.

2. How to get to Islay from Glasgow

Step 1: Glasgow airport to Glasgow City Center

Bus 500 is a regular bus line going from Glasgow airport to a handful of stops to Glasgow city center.  I’ve taken this bus several times, and it’s always a super convenient and easy going journey.  All new buses, with wifi and USB ports at each seat, it’s your luxury liner direct from airport to city center.

When you’re exiting the airport, there should be signs for the bus (turn left) and there it will be – in Stance (or bay) 1.  There aren’t many buses outside so you really can’t miss it.  The bus costs 9£ one way, and can be paid via contactless card on the bus itself.  You can also buy an open-ended return ticket for 14.80£.

These tickets don’t need to be purchased ahead of time, but if you want to save 0.50 – 0.80£ (depending on one-way or return ticket), download the First Bus App and book your tickets there.

Stops in Glasgow central include:

• Bothwell Street
• Bothwell Street at Hope Street (near Central Station)
• George Square at Queen Street Station
• North Hanover Street
• Buchanan Bus Station

For comparison, a one-way taxi between Glasgow airport costs between 20 – 25£, so if you are more than one person, this may be an easier option. 

If you’re going direct from the airport to Glasgow central to start your public transport journey to Islay, then head over to the Buchanan Bus Station.

If you happen to be arriving to Glasgow airport before 14:00 and want to go directly to the bus to Kennacraig, bus 926 swings by the Glasgow airport daily only at 14:20, and you can cut out the first step. When you exit the airport, instead of turning left for Bus 500, turn right and head down to Stance 10 for Bus 926. Remember, only at 14:20 and only once a day. I would suggest you book a ticket in advance on CityLink. Tickets are released 2 months before the travel date.

Hotel options near Glasgow Airport

There are a few hotels within walking distance to Glasgow Airport. I’ve stayed at most of them, so here are the closest recommendations:

– Courtyard Marriott Glasgow Airport – for me, this is the best option – as it is the newest and cleanest. It’s a little farther away, approx 7-8 minutes walking, but it’s worth it, especially if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member like I am.
– Holiday Inn Glasgow Airport – the closest airport hotel. You walk out of the terminal and cross the street, and under 1 minute, you’re there. Down side is that it can be a little dated and musty inside.
– Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport – I’ve never stayed here because it’s often sold out, but from the website it looks relatively new. Distance wise, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the terminal.

Step 2: Buchanan Bus Station to Kennacraig

Step 2 on getting to Islay from Glasgow: Take the bus to Kennacraig from Buchanan Bus Station

Ok, your bus tickets from Glasgow to Kennacraig must be booked in advance.  To book, go to the CityLink website.  Bus 926, the Glasgow to Campbeltown bus, takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes to get to Kennacraig, where your public transport journey to Islay continues by boat. 

Check the time boards at Buchanan bus station to know which bus bay (or stance) bus 926 departs from. The few times I took it, it departed from Stance 55.

The buses are luxury coaches, with bigger luggage going underneath. There is a bathroom at the back of the bus, but I never saw anyone use it. Sometimes there’s wifi, although it’s been hit or miss on my trips. Some seats have a USB port to charge your phone, but not all of them do. These are the old USB cables, not the new USB-C.

The three-hour bus ride includes driving alongside Loch Lomond and through the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. During the journey, there is one 10 minute “comfort stop” (about 2 hours in) in Inveraray.  For those of you who want to pronounce this, break it down and say it slowly: IN-VER-RARE-EE. Whew, these Scottish names are tricky!

Inveraray is a touristy former royal burgh famous for a beautiful castle and a historic jail (separate buildings but nonetheless an odd combination of things Inveraray is famous for).  I say it’s a tourist town because, maybe you’ll have to queue for the bathrooms.  There should be time to go use the loo, or get a coffee, but likely not both.

Sometimes the public toilets at Inveraray cost money, and on those days, coins are your friend. But quite possibly, 90% of the time I’ve visited, they are open and free.

One time, the bus started to drive off and a passenger alerted the bus driver to someone who wasn’t back yet.  He doesn’t count passengers before he departs, so stay alert!

If you look on CityLink, some of the bus routes intentionally include a long break in Inveraray for you to go sightseeing. I’m usually trying to catch the ferry to Islay as early as possible, so I’m not really up for a break. But if you are, it is one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland – and the home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll!

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From Inveraray, there’s only one hour before you reach the ferry port at Kennacraig. If you haven’t printed out your tickets, stop in the ticket office to grab your ticket.

The buses will get you to Kennacraig (ferry port) with about 30 minutes to spare before your ferry. 

Step 3: Ferry to Islay

How to get to Islay by Ferry

When choosing which ferry to Islay to book, know that there are two different ports: Port Askaig (pronounced ASK-kee) and Port Ellen.

I once had a friend, who is English, ask me: are you sure it’s not ASK-KEG? (suggesting an Anglicized pronounciation). I am 100% positive. The word “Askaig” has Norse and Scottish Gaelic roots and is pronounced ASK-kee. 🙂

The car ferry to Islay is run by CalMac Ferries, and genuinely, when the ferries run, I’ve always had a good trip. I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, even if you are only a foot passenger. Nowadays, you pretty much should book everything in advance.

Choosing your port entirely depends on where you’re staying and also whether you have a car or not. Islay buses only run from 8 am – 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. So if you’re coming in the early or late ferry, make taxi arrangements in advance!

The official CalMac Ferry Timetables for their 2024 summer sailings have not been released yet, so be patient!

– Port Askaig

From Port Askaig, you would need to time the Islay bus or a taxi to get to where you’re going. Definitely book a taxi in advance, as they’re not waiting at the ferry port for happenstance passengers.

The only hotel near Port Askaig is the Port Askaig Hotel. Besides that, you are near Caol Ila Distillery (reopened in 2022!), Ardnahoe Distillery, and Bunnahabhain Distillery. These three distilleries located are 30 min, 1 hour, and 1.5 hour walking distance (respectively) from the Port Askaig ferry port. FYI, if we’re on that side of the island, my favorite thing to do is the Warehouse 9 Tasting at Bunnahabhain!

If you’re staying in the Rhinns of Islay, near Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich, then Port Askaig is more convenient / closer arrival port for your Islay adventures.

*Note, located in the middle of Islay, Bowmore is equidistant from both Port Askaig and Port Ellen.

– Port Ellen

The other ferry port, Port Ellen, is located on the southern tip of Islay. Of the two, Port Ellen is supposedly the bigger port, but personally, I don’t see it.

If you make Port Ellen your base, it’s easy to get around without a car – you’d be able to walk to the Islay House Hotel (if you’re staying there), and Sea Salt for a lovely meal. The three “Southern peaty” distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) are all within walking distance from Port Ellen, taking 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 1 hour, respectively. But that’s not all in Port Ellen – don’t forget the soon-to-be-reopened Port Ellen Distillery, the new Portintruan Distillery (still under construction), and the new Islay Rum!

3. Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve walked you through on how to get to Islay from Glasgow using public transport, you are off on your Islay adventures! For a 36£ one way trip and total travel time of 6 hours, getting to Islay from Glasgow it’s not too bad!

• 3 of those hours are on the bus, with a little break in between,
• and 2.5 hours are on the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay.

If you’re concerned about the bus-to-ferry transfer, it is *mostly* linked. I can’t make any guarantees for the winter timetable, but in the summer during tourist season, the bus to ferry transfer is usually seamless!

• That means, when you board the bus and tell the driver you’re going to Kennacraig, the ferry is made aware of how many passengers are arriving by bus.
• But if there are significant delays, since the bus runs on the regular Campbeltown-Glasgow route, it will have to keep going. I’ve never experienced this, but don’t be afraid, you won’t be the only person in need of help. The best advice I can give you is, be friendly and band together!
• Similarly, if you are leaving Islay on the ferry and are catching the bus into Glasgow, the bus (mostly) waits for the ferry! If the ferry is delayed, they will make an announcement to ask for any passengers taking the bus to Glasgow.

There is also no reason to arrive to Kennacraig super early and wait. A ferry transfer is not like a flight! Arrive before the “check in closes” time on your ticket, and you’ll be fine! Kennacraig is not a town, it is a ferry terminal and the only things available there are:

• (1) bathrooms,
• (2) one hot-drinks vending machine, and
• (3) the ticket office, if you haven’t picked up your ticket!

For those who are pressed for time, the quickest way to Islay is to fly. The flight from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair takes about 30 – 40 minutes, and is super convenient. But it drives up the price, and is prone to cancellations due to low visibility. So if you have a bit of time, taking public transport to Islay is well worth it.

Just a friendly reminder that because Islay is an island, sometimes you physically cannot get there any faster due to the ferry or flight timings. So remember, slow down and enjoy the ride – you’re on island time now!

• For help planning your Islay trip and ideas on activities and wonderful places to eat, I’ve detailed all of that in my Ultimate Islay Guide.
• And if you’re looking for a whisky experience in Glasgow before you head off, look no further than the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s member room on Bath Street in central Glasgow. If you’re not a member, don’t worry – keep your eyes out for non-member whisky tasting events! You won’t regret it!
• If you’d rather not take public transport to Islay, why not visit Islay with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s Islay & the Whisky Isles 4-day Tour comes highly recommended!
  • If you need to negotiate a whisky tour with your better half, consider offering an Outlander tour to help with the bargaining 😉
• Connecting to Glasgow from elsewhere in Scotland? Take ScotRail to Glasgow Queen Street, and you can pick up Bus 500 around the corner at Hanover Street (look for a purple Bus 500 sign near the Costa Coffee).
• If you need to store some luggage before heading to Islay, there are several temporary luggage storage options around Glasgow Central. For only 5 GBP per bag per day,
• Coming to Scotland from London? Why not arrive to Glasgow via an overnight luxury sleeper train on the Caledonian Sleeper from London. Arrive well rested and ready to travel to Islay! If you’re looking for a review on this overnight train for Scotland, look no further! I’ve reviewed it for you HERE.
• Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Islay whisky, you’ll have to love Islay rain!
  • The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
  • The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) to go pouncing around Islay’s peat bogs is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber, these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
    • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Now you know that, despite living on a seemingly remote island, getting to Islay from Glasgow is relatively easy and straight forward. Until you grace the shores of my fair isle, I bid you adieu and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Unveiled recently in spring 2021, the Bruichladdich Foot and Cycle Path runs from the pier in Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. A project of the Islay Community Access Group and the Argyll and Bute Council, in partnership with Bruichladdich Distillery and the Botanist Foundation, the Bruichladdich walking path is a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one way coastal path. Maybe I walked a little further than the path is supposed to be, because my Apple Watch said it was closer to about 1.9 miles each way. But regardless of its length, it’s a beautifully paved path with a few wooden bridges and coastal views throughout.

Have I got your attention?

1. The start of the Bruichladdich Walking Path

While you can start your walk either in Port Charlotte or in Bruichladdich, I’d recommend starting in Port Charlotte. There’s plenty of street parking in the village of Port Charlotte, and if you’re going to walk there and back, you can stop off at the Port Charlotte Hotel afterwards for a bite to eat or a dram. It’s arguably one of the best places to eat on the island, so a great meal will be something to look forward to! I digress, and of course, am always distracted at the prospect of a great meal.

Port Charlotte (or Port Sgioba in Gaelic) is an idyllic village of beautiful white-washed houses, and the perfect place to start. From the village, walk towards the lighthouse.

2. Sections of Loch Indaal Way

2.1 The Loch Indaal Lighthouse

According to the Northern Lighthouse Board (the General Lighthouse Authority for the waters around Scotland and the Isle of Man), the Loch Indaal Lighthouse was built in 1869 by David and Thomas Stevenson. I never knew that there was an authority governing lighthouses, but it does make sense. The “character” of the lighthouse is described as flashing red and white every 7 seconds, and has a range of 11 nautical miles. The white tower itself is 13 meters high with a balcony and a black lantern. While it serves as a beacon of the Rhinns and the path, there is no public access to the lighthouse.

2.2 Bruichladdich Barley Fields

As you continue walking, besides the gorgeous coastal views, the thing you will see most on the opposite side of the road, is barley. Fields and fields of barley.

Although you may assume it, not all whisky distilleries grow their own barley. And if they do, it’s usually only for certain expressions of whisky, not their full production. The same can be said for Bruichladdich, which grows some of its own barley on Islay – but not all of it. Watching the barley calmly wave in the wind is almost poetic in a way – so soft, so beautiful. Such a wonderful spirit that comes from the barley itself.

2.3 St. Kiaran’s Church

Just past one of the Bruichladdich barley fields, is St. Kiaran’s Church. A Romanesque and Norman-styled church, built in 1897 to accommodate the boom in population the island experienced with the growing number of distilleries. Services are held Sundays at 11:30, and they welcome visitors. By now, you’re about halfway through the Loch Indaal Way.

2.4 War Memorial

Keep going a bit further, and you’ll come across the war memorial monument, commemorating the men of Kilchoman Parish, killed in World War I. From the beautiful stone monument, there are views of Bowmore in the distance, across Loch Indaal.

2.5 The Secret Beach

Ok, it’s probably not so secret. But I love the idea of a “blink and you’ll miss it” beach! Called the Port Ban Beach to those who know, the entrance to the beach is at the war monument. Simply let yourself in behind the gate, but remember to close it back up, in case there are any cows or sheep on that side! From the gate, there’s a paved path and some stairs that go down (and then unpaved as you go about halfway), and you’re nearly there! When you come off the path, first you traverse a bunch of small, smooth rocks, until soft, fine sand reveals itself closer to the water.

The first time I visited, I was alone there with my thoughts and the views. The second time, there was a family playing there in the shallow waters. Locals on Islay are extremely friendly, and after exchanging some delightful pleasantries about the weather and sunshine (always great topics on Islay), I navigated over some rocks and found a little corner of the beach to myself.

I planned ahead on my second trip, and brought with me a little bottle of Bruichladdich’s Classic Laddie. Could I call it one of the great whisky walks on Islay, without some whisky? (I mean, I could…) And of course, I had to choose a spirit from Bruichladdich Distillery, which we will come to when our journey continues.

3. Arrival to Bruichladdich

After a wee dram and some calming waves, I was off again. Not long and I reached Bruichladdich, the halfway point. Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) is a distillery village. As I was researching for this post, I began to wonder what came first – the distillery or the village? Is the distillery named after the village or vice versa?

According to Islay Info (the source of much of my Islay information), the village was built around the distillery in 1881. Unlike other distilleries, Bruichladdich’s Distillery buildings were not converted farmhouses, but built specifically for the distillery. Many of the old Victorian equipment is still in use today!

3.1 Bruichladdich Distillery

Bruichladdich produces three different ranges of whiskies:

• Bruichladdich, which is an unpeated expression – the Classic Laddie, an unaged statement, being one of them (and the one I sampled along the way);
• Port Charlotte, the heavily peated variety (at 40 PPM) – named after our starting point of the Loch Indaal Way!
• and Octomore, the super heavily peated single malt whisky (which ranges from 88 PPM to 167 PPM, depending on the edition) – named after a farm near Port Charlotte.

While I don’t know much about Bruichladdich’s whiskies (being on the other side of the island to me haha), prior to this whisky walk, I had tried Octomore. Rated as the most heavily peated whisky in the world, by a long shot, I just had to know. It wasn’t for me honestly, and that’s ok. Not all whiskies will be your friend. But I’ve only tried it once. I’m open to trying it again.

I did enjoy the Classic Laddie “pairing” with the secret beach. The aroma for me, which arguably was mixed with the salty sea air, was sweet honey. At 50% ABV, it kicked a bit stronger than I would’ve imagined. But it was still a nice addition to my walk!

Bruichladdich Distillery also produces The Botanist Gin, which includes 22 botanicals foraged here on Islay. While gin is not my area of expertise (haha, nor is whisky really), I do enjoy the Botanist. It’s a regular companion when I’m off at my duty station!

While Bruichladdich & The Botanist are currently not offering tours, the Laddie Shop is open for your whisky, gin and souvenirs. Book your slot in advance so you don’t miss out along your walk!

3.2 The Bruichladdich Mini Market

If you’re feeling peckish or need a little coffee pick me up, stop by the Bruichladdich Mini Market for light snacks and refreshments! Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the views of Loch Indaal. You’ve done 2 miles at this point. Pause and savor the moment before you turn around and head back to Port Charlotte!

4. Back in Port Charlotte

When you arrive back to Port Charlotte, you have a few different options. You can:

• stop by the Islay Natural History Museum and learn about Islay’s geology and wildlife;
• visit the Museum of Islay Life, and learn about Islay’s history through its large collection of artifacts and photos;
• eat a phenomenal meal and rest up at the Port Charlotte Hotel (or have a well deserved dram at its whisky bar!)

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel back in 2020 on my first trip to Islay, and for wonderful hospitality and delicious food, you’re at the right place!

5. Parting Thoughts and Information on the Bruichladdich Walking Path

Filled with stunning views, a secret beach or two, maybe some cows and sheep, what’s not to love about the Loch Indaal Way? I’m absolutely loving Islay’s whisky walks and even more, loving living on this island!

Genuinely, I’m so happy that Islay has a number of walks to go on, that include coastal views coupled with a little whisky to go along with it. This newly opened path is phenomenal! It’s beautifully paved, and an easy walk. Perfect for walking or cycling, and for people of all ages. There’s no shade on the walk, but the sun is rarely blistering on Islay, so you should be ok!

Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich can be reached by car or via the Islay bus system.

I’ve added this map to my trusty AllTrails hiking app, so here it is! For those who don’t have AllTrails, it is an incredible app that has user-verified hiking, walking, and biking routes. I never go hiking without it! Download the free app today 🙂

For your Islay vacation planning needs, check out:

• my Ultimate Guide to Islay;
• the two best places to stay on the island: Glenegedale House and the Port Charlotte Hotel;
• my whisky adventure on the other whisky walk on Islay: The Three Distilleries Path;
• Kilchoman Distillery (read about my Feis Ile tastings) with Islay’s only Farm Distillery;
• beloved bluebells if planning to visit between May and June;
• consider a day trip to nearby Colonsay before moving onward!

If you like themed whisky walks or you’re unable to come to Islay just yet, Nio Cocktails brings the Bruichladdich mood to you with some delicious at-home cocktails! These are perfect for when you want a quick cocktail. (I looove the Progressive Old Fashioned!) Just shake and add ice!

Until next time friends, stay safe! And Slainte!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

To introduce you to these delightful flowers, some brief facts:

• Bluebells are common in the UK, but not really in the rest of the world. In fact, than half of the worlds bluebells are in the UK. 
• But don’t go picking them from the wild, they’re protected under the Wildlife and Conservation Act of 1981.

Where bluebells grow, on the ground of ancient forests, they blanket the forest floor.  And I guess that makes sense why there would be so many bluebells in Scotland – Scotland is home to so much ancient, old forestry.

Even though the bluebells lay a purple carpet down in the woodlands, resist the urge to go frolicking inside the bluebells. Damage to the plant caused by accidentally stepping on it, basically cuts off the plant’s food supply and it subsequently dies. Bluebells are a delicate thing.

Now that I live on the Isle of Islay, I was pleasantly surprised that there are several areas on the island that bluebells happily grow. Although the normal blooming season on mainland UK is closer to April / May, on Islay, bluebells can be seen well into June.

1. Best place for Bluebells in Islay – Bridgend Woods

One of the best places for bluebells on Islay is the Bridgend Woods, located just across the street from Islay House Square.

A few weeks ago, I visited Nerabus Gin (a local, small batch gin producer) for a chat and some gin cocktails. Having drove on my own, I decided a walk in Bridgend Woods would be the perfect way to sober up, post-cocktails. Being a solo traveler, I have to be my own designated driver. So I always plan my drinks and time accordingly, and have something planned post-drinks in order to be able to drive myself home afterward. A walk in Bridgend woods was arguably my best idea for sobering up yet.

For those planning on visiting Bridgend woods, head towards Islay House Square. Just inside the turn, off of the A846, there is a car park for the woods.  The entrance to the woods is just on the opposite side of the street, through the gates.

You quickly go from walking in from the road, to a quiet and serene magical forest setting. There is a good path to follow all the way through.  Within a matter of steps, you start to see bluebells on both sides of you.

There are different ways to turn along the path, but you won’t get lost. And you won’t be short of bluebells either!

2. Three Distilleries Path

I walk the Three Distilleries Path quite often, since its starting point is in Port Ellen. The Three Distilleries Path is one way road / seaside trail that runs from Port Ellen to Ardbeg. Along the way, you pass by Laphroaig Distillery, Lagavulin Distillery, and then finally (the northernmost), Ardbeg Distillery.

Since the path itself is one way, personally, I like to take the bus one way from Port Ellen to Ardbeg (for 2£, runs Monday – Saturday, about every 2 hours) and then walk back.

While there aren’t bluebells along the whole path, they’re mostly in the sections from Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig. And, they’re right alongside the Three Distilleries Path! You don’t have to go traipsing into the wild just to see these stunners. Keep to the path, and there will be bluebells!

Watch this video on YouTube.

Parting Thoughts on Bluebells in Islay

It’s always fun finding the special things about a new place. Bluebells simply aren’t a thing in America! But I do love them, and I love that they’re so easy to find on Islay.

Well, I’m new to Islay, so this isn’t a full list. Of course, as I get to know my new home a bit more, I’ll be updating this list to include new places as I discover them! Local Ileachs, share your favorite place for bluebells in Islay is and let me know in the comments!

If you’re considering coming to Islay for some bluebells, check out my other Islay posts:

• my ultimate Islay guide;
• Glenegedale House, the most luxurious B&B on Islay with incredible food and hospitality;
• Port Charlotte Hotel – sea views, lively whisky bar, and delicious food;
• a walk on the Three Distilleries Path with SMWS;
• Kilchoman Distillery’s Feis Ile whisky tastings;
• or take the ferry to neighboring Colonsay – a wee island, with gins and seafood!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Disclaimer: I was gifted the SMWS April Tasting pack by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. (Thank you!) However, I am under no obligation to enjoy the whiskies. All the opinions contained in this post are my own. Additionally, I am an affiliate of the SMWS. Affiliate links in this post are in green, for which I may earn a small commission, if you choose to purchase from it.

Also, the April Tasting Pack is now sold out, but there are other virtual (and now in-person tastings!)

Although I’ve visited and done tours and tastings at four whisky distilleries around Scotland, that’s nothing compared to the hundreds that exist!  I am in no way a whisky expert, but I’m enthusiastic and learning.  This post is written for people like me – who have interest in whisky, but not necessarily the nose and experience to be considered a connoisseur.

So if you’re a whisky expert, this post is probably a little basic for you.  But first, a brief intro.

1. Brief Introduction to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Ironically, in 2018, I did a whisky tasting and haggis pairing at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society member rooms in Edinburgh, so I’m not stranger to the organization. 

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) is a membership organization or club for people who love… you guessed it! Single malt scotch whiskies.  (Me!)  They have member rooms in Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London, as well as partner whisky bars globally.

Something that I find really interesting about SMWS whiskies is that the distilleries are anonymized.  The spirits are bottled, labelled, and named into something different.  Each whisky is identified by two numbers (corresponding to the distillery and the cask number), a color code for the taste profile, and a fun, sometimes cheeky, description.  As an example, one of the whiskies we will taste is: 48.118 Trekking in the Jungle. 

Wait, does Scotland have a jungle?  Um, no.  So, don’t take the names too seriously. 

Not only that, all Scotch Malt Whisky Society whiskies are “bottled from a single cask, at cask strength with no water or colouring added and with no chill filtration.” (From the Scotch Malt Whisky Society website)

So, now that you’re all experts… onto the whiskies!

2. SMWS April Tasting Pack

The SMWS tasting pack came with 5 whiskies, with really fun names, as well as a little envelope containing cards with the tasting notes and details about the spirit itself.

And now, onto the 5 whiskies.

48.118 Trekking in the jungle
82.31 Give free rein to the imagination
26.160 Fruit market – candy store
G8.17 Candles, kumquats and polished oak
42.52 Wood smoke through a porthole

3. The Three Distilleries Path on Islay

I decided a fun way to to get to know my new home and these 5 whiskies would be to do the tastings while walking along the Three Distilleries Walk on Islay. Arguably, it’s one of the best walks on Islay, with views of the sea and plenty of sheep to keep you company! For those cyclists, don’t worry – it’s also a cycle path, so biking along the path is allowed!

The Three Distilleries Pathway runs on the southern part of Islay, between Port Ellen and Ardbeg. Since I knew I would be drinking, I decided to take the bus to Ardbeg Distillery and walk back.

Some quick facts about the path:

• The path is 6 miles, there and back (trail map);
• It is a paved path, along the right side of the main road;
• The 3 distilleries that you come across are (in the order I did it): Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig – hello peaty Islay whiskies, and world famous distilleries!
  • If you have the time, you’re always welcome to stop off and do some distillery tours along the walk!
  • Check the distilleries’ websites to confirm whether booking needs to be done in advance or whether they are running tours or tastings;
• It’s a nice distance between each stop:
  • Ardbeg to Lagavulin: 1 km / 0.6 mi
  • Lagavulin to Laphroaig: 1.6 km / 1 mi
  • Laphroaig to Port Ellen 1.6 km / 1 mi
• It’s a one way path, so the return trip would obviously be double. Or, do what I did and take the bus for one way!

Somewhere, there’s 2 km missing if you add it up, but by the time 5 whiskies are down, I don’t think you’ll care. It’s an easy going walk, with nice paved pathways. And there are plenty of benches along the way to sit back, and enjoy the view (or a whisky). There is one small hill between Laphroaig and Port Ellen, but besides that, it’s relatively flat.

Get your bearings straight with an Ordnance Survey map of South Islay!

Do note that the three distilleries (Ardbeg Distillery, Lagavulin Distillery, and Laphroaig Distillery) are not affiliated with my SMWS tasting. But I love being able to do the walk and to visit the outside of these magical places!

4. Scotch whisky tasting along the Three Distilleries Path on Islay

Besides the tasting pack itself, I brought a pipette (and some water) and a Glencairn glass, to help bring out the flavors and aromas.

For the full play by play on my three distilleries, SWMS tasting adventure, I’ve included it in my Instagram highlights. Only people with an Instagram account can view.

And then I was off!

4.1 Cask No. G8.17 Candles, Kumquats and Polished Oak.

The first of the SWMS April Tasting Pack I tried was Candles, Kumquats and Polished Oak. The tasting profile calls it “old and dignified.”

Region: Lowland
Cask: Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
Age: 31 years
ABV: 59.7%

Upon smelling it, that polished oak really comes through. It was almost a surprise how closely it smelled like polished oak. But on the taste, it was definitely sweet, some citrusy kumquats – maybe some honey. Tastes nice, but the smell wasn’t for me.

4.2 Cask No. 26.160 Fruit market – candy store

The second whisky I tasted was Fruit market – candy store. The tasting profile calls it “juicy, oak and vanilla.”

Region: Highland
Cask: 2nd fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 9 years
ABV: 56.7%

The tasting notes said the aroma was full of fruits (green apples, pineapple, gooseberries). The palate itself was definitely sweet. SMWS suggested tastes of honey, banoffee pie, nougat, orange pastilles – but with spice hints.

Definitely, the smell was extremely fruity and sweet. But what was wild was the taste – it tasted like banana candy! You know that banana candy flavor. For the nostalgic Americans out there, it was like the Runts banana candy flavor. A little too sweet for my whisky palate, but interesting. Enjoyable.

Onward! To Lagavulin!

At Lagavulin, there is a nice wooden path that leads to a gazebo overlooking Lagavulin Bay. From there, you can catch views of the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle, which previously served as the naval base of the Lord of the Isles!

4.3 Cask No. 42.52 Wood smoke through a porthole

When I first opened the SMWS April Tasting Pack, and I saw the description of “wood smoke through a porthole,” I knew I was going to do this tasting at Laphroaig.

Laphroaig’s whiskies have often been described as super smoky and peaty. To take a direct quote off of their Opinions Welcome, 200 Anniversary Wall, it’s:

Like licking a peat stove’s ashtray, but less frowned upon.

Neel Van Hossel

So, with that roundabout introduction, Wood Smoke through a Port Hole. Tasting profile “Peated.”

Region: Highland
Cask: Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
Age: 13 years
ABV: 58.3%

This is my “OOF! This is smoky” face. (Actual reaction)

If you can still count at this point, we’ve done all three distilleries and 3 out of 5 whiskies!

4.4 Cask No. 82.31 Give free rein to the imagination

A “spicy and sweet” whisky for the 4th whisky, and my face getting redder and redder.

Region: Highland
Cask: 2nd fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 9 years
ABV: 61.9% !!!!!!!

I can see why this is categorized in the spicy and sweet profile – it was both of those. Although, I’d probably say it was sweeter than spicy. The little hint of spice only came in at the finish. But, with this one being so high in alcohol (nearly 62%!!!!), and the fact that I was already tipsy from the others, the strong alcohol content was kind of a kick to the face! (More of a kick to the face than the Wood Fire through a Port Hole!) Intense!

I had to take a break following the 4th whisky. So let me just insert some random photos from along the way. Lots of gorgeous sea views, and of course, sheep.

4.5 Cask No. 48.118 Trekking in the jungle

The last dram in the SMWS April Tasting Pack is Trekking in the Jungle. By that time, I had already reached Port Ellen, the official end of the Three Distilleries Path, and also, my home village. I don’t think public consumption is allowed within the village itself (not 100% sure) so I decided to err on the side of caution and take the last whisky home!

So, Trekking in the Jungle had a taste profile of “young and spritely.” As someone who may or may not self-describe as “young(ish) and spritely” themselves, I was really excited to taste this one.

Region: Speyside
Cask: 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 7 years
ABV: 60.6%

I’m going to actually include the notes on the card, because it’s so… unique.

“We made cilantro mint chutney using Greek style natural yoghurt, fresh cilantro, ginger, jalapeno, garlic, mint and lemon juice to accompany our vegetable samosas. On the palate neat we had Kendal mint cake, that sugar-based confection flavoured with peppermint, popular among British climbers as a source of energy. In our case however they were laced with chilli flakes for an extra oomph. After the addition of water we imagined walking through mountain grassland, a cooling herbal, green, fresh breeze as we gathered strength for our ascent to a snow-capped mountain peak. Having reached the top we cooked on a tiny gas stove a delicious tom yam soup.”

I know what you’re thinking. All this, in a whisky?? Your skepticism is not unfounded. Everything as described as above… cilantro mint chutney, veggie samosas, tom yum soup. I’m all for it. But not in a whisky. I’m not sure if the description clouded my taste, or that the taste itself was not to my liking. Either way, this turned out to be my least favorite.

But maybe you like eating a savory meal in your whisky. Everyone is different, and that’s ok!

5. Parting thoughts on SMWS April Tasting Pack

All in all, the tasting pack was really fun! I loved the unique expressions, which came in all different flavors and aromas. Not only that, the difference in the ages ranged from a 7-year whisky to one aged 31-years. I’m not sure what the oldest whisky I’ve tried was, but it was nowhere near 31 years, until now.

Out of the 5 whiskies, there were 3 Highland whiskies, 1 Speyside, and 1 Lowland whisky. I guess since there are 5 whisky regions, with Campbeltown and Islay being the other two, I hoped for one dram from each region. So in that respect, I was a little disappointed that their peated selection came from the Highlands, and not Islay itself – which is renowned for their peated whiskies.

The heavy ABV content was kind of a surprise. Then again, all of them are undiluted cask strength whiskies. I didn’t drink the full tasting bottles for each whisky. But even then, after 5 tastings, I was definitely drunk.

Of course, there is the option not to drink the whiskies, but to spit it out. But, why would I do that? No, these are phenomenal whiskies. Too good to spit out.

As you can see, I had a really fun time on the Three Distilleries Path with my SMWS April Tasting Pack. If anyone is looking for something fun to do, maybe you want to try your own whisky tasting from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

And hope you all enjoyed seeing a little bit of my new home through the Three Distilleries Path on Islay! Until next time, stay safe, and Slàinte Mhath! 

6. Info on ordering your own SMWS April Tasting Pack

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society regularly hosts virtual and in-person whisky tastings for its members. In case you’re curious about membership, I’ve detailed all the ins and outs of memberships, here.

For information on ordering your SMWS tasting or joining as a member:

Tasting Pack costs: 30 – 35£ – click to order a different tasting pack!
SMWS Annual Membership (UK): 85£ – click to join!

Disclaimer: I was gifted the SMWS April Tasting pack by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. (Thank you!) However, I am under no obligation to enjoy the whiskies. All the opinions contained in this post are my own. Additionally, I am an affiliate of the SMWS. Affiliate links in this post are in green, for which I may earn a small commission, if you choose to purchase from it.

For more ideas on your travel to Islay:

• consider staying at Glenegedale House, recently voted Scotland’s most hospitable B&B;
• or the Port Charlotte Hotel, which has a famous whisky bar and delicious food in their restaurant;
• my post on the best things to do on Islay!
• Looking for another whisky walk? Try the Bruichladdich / Loch Indaal Way! You’ll pass by Bruichladdich Distillery along the way 🙂
• Or perhaps, take a guided small group tour to Islay, and relax the whole way!

Need directions to Islay? I’ve broken it down in these two posts:

• How to get to Islay from Glasgow – using the bus and the ferry!
• Or, if you’re coming from Northern Ireland, there are seasonal sailings from Ballycastle to Port Ellen. Doable as a day trip from Belfast!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

{For those who want to pronounce it properly like I always do, break it up into 4 syllables and say: GLEN-egg-uh-DALE. House. Glenegedale House. Got it?}

1. The lure of Glenegedale House

I first became acquainted with Glenegedale House through social media. In early 2020, Glenegedale House won Visit Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. The award definitely caught my attention. Although I was not looking for the best luxury accommodation on Islay, when I found it, need I look further?

When I travel, amazing hospitality is just one of those things that I specifically look for. And for a place to win an award specific to its hospitality, well, let’s just say I put a little mental note in my brain to visit and stay at Glenegedale House sometime in the near future!

Several hours of internet lurking and months of obsessing over their Instagram, I discovered that they were famous for their baking. Fresh, warm pastries at breakfast, coffee and cakes for afternoon tea. Over covid lockdown, they also sold tray bakes and other baked goods out of an honesty box on their grounds.

2. My Islay bed and breakfast decision

I consulted with one of my friends, who works for a drinks company with a distillery on Islay. She solidified the choice of Islay as a holiday, but also Glenegedale House as the place to stay while on Islay. She visited a few years back and stayed for one night. Any guesses where that one night was?

Glenegedale House.

She told me that if I was looking for a low key Scottish island, with hiking opportunities and interesting things to see, Islay was the place for me. And if I were looking to be well fed with baked goods and taken care of by the best proprietress, Glenegedale House was the luxury accommodation on Islay that I had to choose.

Let’s have a bit of a recap: When you go stay at Glenegedale House, you get the full experience of hospitality, including someone making you fresh baked goods 24-7. I think you can all get on board with that.

Now that I’ve introduced its baked goods, let me properly introduce you to this luxury accommodation on Islay – Glenegedale House.

3. How to get to Glenegedale House

The bed and breakfast is located in the south of the Island, just across the street from the Islay airport. It is less than a 10 minute drive from Port Ellen, which has one of the island’s main ferry ports.

• From Port Ellen, take the A846 northwest leaving town. After a weird left and a right to stay on A846, you’ll go straight on A846. When you see the airport on your left, Glenegedale House is on your right.

• From Port Askaig (the other ferry terminal on Islay), you can either follow A846 south all the way to Glenegedale House (approx 25 – 30 minutes). You’ll pass through Bowmore on the way.

Or you can take the funner way from Port Askaig, which is heading south on A846 and then after Bridgend (8.5 miles), turn left onto B8016. After 6 miles of straight, uninterrupted road, you’ll see a sign for Glenegedale and you’ll turn right. This also takes approximately 25-30 minutes, but trust me – it’s much funner drive this way.

4. Arriving to my luxury accommodation on Islay

I arrived to Islay from the ferry port in Port Askaig. The ferry was supposed to arrive around 2:30 PM, but was slightly delayed in leaving the Scottish mainland. The day before, Emma from Glenegedale emailed asking what time I would check in. Even though it only takes 30 minutes to get from Port Askaig to Glenegedale, I told her I’d arrive at 4 PM.

Why 4 PM? I always want to add in extra time to get lost, find my way, or stop for refreshments. Without getting lost and beaming of the pride of punctuality, I arrived at 3:57 PM.

Unbeknownst to me, I was Glenegedale’s first guest after Scotland’s first lockdown ended in July 2020.

4.1 Glenegedale House’s COVID-19 Preparedness

Speaking of the large, ugly pandemic in the room, I should firstly say that the standard of everything at Glenegedale House is so high that you should not worry about covid preparedness.

But in case you’d like to know specifically, here are the measures Glenegedale House has taken to ensure their guests are safe!

1. Certified as “We’re Good to Go!” by Visit Scotland;
2. Hand sanitizing stations at doors and located inside;
3. Masks on during welcoming a guest;
4. Some kind of anti-virus sanitization spray for the furniture and rooms, after a guest uses the area.

During my stay, I never once felt that things were not sanitized properly. It is very clear that those in the tourism and hospitality industries take COVID-19 precautionary measures extremely seriously. So try to relax and let the hospitality of a luxury accommodation on Islay envelop you.

4.2 A welcome with Baked Goods

When I first arrived, I was brought into their sitting room some rest and an Islay chat with Emma, my hostess. We are just chit chatting along about Islay and whiskies and my love of Scotland when all of a sudden, out comes this gorgeous tray of fine china and silver with my coffee.

Followed in very close succession by another tray with something to pair with the coffee, of course:

Coffee and Hazelnut Cake
&
Hamlyn Oats and Blueberry Flapjacks, with a Kilchoman Saligo Bay Whisky Drizzle

Are you just sitting there and salivating right now? That would make two of us! Both were made fresh that day, by Emma, our hostess with the mostest. And, in case you needed to me to specifically say, it was absolutely delicious!!

5. My Room at Glenegedale House

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a Double Room with ensuite facilities (i.e. a private bathroom and shower). The cost of 198 GBP a night (or approximately $275 USD) includes both bed and breakfast. And, as you’ll see shortly, THE BREAKFAST IS PHENOMENAL.

Back to the room!

Imagine laying in bed with warm wool and tweed all around you, maybe it’s a sunny day outside or maybe it’s a little dreich… watching the sea from the window, while snuggling in bed.

I loved the soft grey and heather colors of the tweed and wool. The thick, native Scottish fabrics made the room sooooo warm and inviting. Considering that it was quite chilly and brisk in July, you’ll want that extra warmth!

But not only that, I absolutely loved the gorgeous wallpaper from Timorous Beasties. Fun fact, I already knew about Timorous Beasties and lusted after that thistle wallpaper even before I visited! Does that mean me and Glenegedale House are a match made in interior decorating heaven? ABSOLUTELY.

Glenegedale House carries toiletries from ARRAN Sense of Scotland, from neighboring Isle of Arran. The chosen scent, “After the Rain,” is a warm and refreshing mix of lime, rose and sandalwood. Their products are cruelty free and environmentally friendly!

My washroom had a shower and not a bathtub. The pressure was high and the water was hot. No complaints here!

5.1 Amenities in my Room

Maybe this is a little known fact about me – I bring coffee with me everywhere I go. That means, I’m alway looking coffee making facilities in the room.

Fear not, the room comes with all of the following:

• armoire and chest of drawers for your clothes,
• kettle and mugs (with coffee, tea, and all the trimmings),
• a TV (but I never watched),
• and a full length mirror which was glorious.

In case I didn’t mention it before, free WiFi and free parking is also included!

6. The Food and Drinks at Glenegedale House

Ok, I know I teased you with the coffee cake and blueberry flapjacks. You all must know that if I’m foreshadowing some epic food, it should live up to expectations.

For Emma, food is her way of sharing her passion for Islay and Scotland. You can taste the warmth and hospitality in each bite. When creating recipes, she tries to use local Islay ingredients and products. If local products from Islay are not available, she selects ingredients from local producers in Argyll and Bute, and then Scotland, and then finally broad UK-British brands and products. And you’ll see this in the food I highlight below. If she can support local businesses, she will.

Breakfast is obviously provided, and beginning in 2021, Glenegedale House also began offering dinner options. Do note that there are no lunch options. However, they can prepare a picnic basket if you’re looking to do that!

6.1 Breakfast offers at Glenegedale House

Pre-pandemic breakfast at Glenegedale House was a vast and lush buffet that people regularly rave about online. The buffet is no longer. But, if you think that removing a buffet means less food, you are absolutely wrong!

Breakfast is served between 7 – 8 am, also known as the absolute perfect time for breakfast. Retreating back into bed with a full belly is not only a good idea, it may even be recommended.

First up, baked goods. Each morning there are warm, straight-out-of-the-oven baked delights in a variety of shapes and flavors. During time my there, Emma delighted me every morning with my cup of coffee and the following baked goods:

1. Apricot and almond muffins;
2. Banana bread;
3. Fig and walnut bread.

Amazing tip for solo travelers – you still get 2 muffins and 2 pieces of fresh bread in the morning, same as the couple next to you. Basically, the one time known to mankind where being a solo traveler gives you some kind of a benefit! (ok, I digress…)

From then, you can take a gander at the breakfast menu for their mains:

1. Smoked Salmon and Scrambled Eggs – Argyll Salmon smoked in Campbeltown with some of our own Glenegedale hen eggs scrambled with creme fraiche and a little salt and pepper and a slice of homemade brown bread;
2. Full Hebridean Breakfast – Smoked Ayrshire bacon, Glenegedale hen eggs (fried poached or scrambled), pork and herb sausage made by our local butcher in Bowmore, ove roasted tomato, Ramsay’s of Carluke Haggis, mushroom and a wee dish of Heinz baked beans;
3. Cheese Platter – A selection of cheese, served with a little fruit, homemade oatcakes, and a wee dish of chutney;
4. Eggs and Soldiers – 1 or 2 boiled eggs done as you like, with some freshly toasted bread to tip.

Or if a simple porridge and cream is your thing (or oatmeal for us Americans!), they also have Scotts Porridge Oats made slowly with water, served with cream and whisky (Laphroaig 10) on the side!

For a full Islay bed and breakfast experience, I would recommend the Full Hebridean Breakfast, paired with a side of porridge and whisky. For those who don’t know what Hebridean breakfast is, it’s your tried and true Scottish breakfast, but with ingredients from the Hebrides.

They also make their own poached fruits that go deliciously with the porridge. For me, it was plums with vanilla and cinnamon, rhubarb with root ginger, and pears with ginger and cloves. Sound too good to be true? Absolutely!

See how glorious Glenegedale House breakfasts are??

6.2 Dinners

Nowadays, dinner can be booked at Glenegedale House 6 nights a week. You can also do a meat and cheese board separate from their dinners.

At least once a week, there will be a seafood platter night. I would highly recommend ordering the seafood platter, as it is absolutely stunning! We’ll get to the seafood platter in a bit. For me, did I have both charcuterie and seafood platters (on different nights)? Obviously I did.

Have I also sampled dinners at Glenegedale House on my staycation stay there? Of course I did. I’ll give you a wee look into the dinners I’ve had at Glenegedale House.

6.2.1 Dinner at Glenegedale House

So far, I’ve had three delightful dinners with Emma and Graeme, two during my staycation and one as a guest of a guest a few weeks later. The quality of food is absolutely phenomenal and I genuinely enjoyed dining there!! Some things that you’ll see in the photos below:

• hand dived Islay scallop mornay (with melted, Isle of Mull cheddar);
• Dunlossit venison steak, with junipery Lussa Gin and Cairnmore Bay jus;
• Argyll smoked salmon tartare, with Lagavulin wild garlic pesto. The smoked salmon (smoked by Argyll smokery) has been smoked over Islay whisky barrel shavings, specifically for Glenegedale House!
• creme brulee with fresh raspberries and mint.

Some items not shown include Scottish cornfed chicken breast stuffed with cheese and herbs, along with sticky toffee pudding (my absolute favorite Scottish desert)!

6.2.2 The Meat and Cheese Board

The amazing thing about this charcuterie board are the deliciously local ingredients. We had meat and cheeses from Islay, the Isle of Mull, the Isle of Gigha, and New Lanark (on the mainland). Scottish food at its finest!

Also, the delicious oatcakes are Emma’s own recipe made from the peaty grist from Laphroaig! See how whisky pairs with basically everything?

For the baking savvy wanting to try to make Emma’s Hamlyn Oats and Laphroaig oatcakes, give it a try! For extra fun, she did a cooking demonstration recently on Facebook Live and walks you through the easy recipe!

6.2.3 The Seafood Board

Emma knew that I wanted to have a seafood dinner during one of my evenings. She suggested that I eat it on S & B’s last night (the other guests staying at Glenegedale), so that we could all enjoy our seafood dinners together. Having been to Kilchoman’s beach whisky tasting with S&B (and had delightful conversation over breakfasts and in passing), I thought that was a wonderful suggestion and happily agreed.

Before I get to the actual seafood dinner, I should give a brief intro into my excitement level leading up to this meal. Even though I was born in a landlocked state, I’m pretty confident that island life is for me. Everything about living on an island speaks to me – the water, the sand, the sun, the landscape. The food. But, specifically, the fresh seafood. My love of seafood is only outweighed by my ignorance at preparing it myself. I’ll need to work on this…

Back to this seafood dinner. So, island gal at heart, eyes sparkling, when this arrives:

If you’re confused at this, don’t be – this is 1 person’s portion. Even now, months later, I’m still rendered speechless at the sight of this.

(Internal dialogue – get it together and say something!)

Suffice it to really say, we all enjoyed ourselves immensely. The dinner had lots of laughter, so much warmth, and (at least for me) periods of standing up to make room for dessert.

Although I regularly boast about how much I can eat, I simply could not eat everything on this platter. Plus, there was still dessert! A delectable chocolate and Lagavulin mousse.

Emma suggested I make a sandwich for tomorrow’s lunch. Crab salad sandwich with all the fixings, here I come! Not to worry folks. If not for the crab sandwich, the chickens get the leftovers. So nothing goes to waste!

7. Glenegedale House – the farm

Since I spent so much time at Glenegedale House, the family thought it would be fun for me to go on a walk with their son, Cameron, as he feeds the animals. Cameron, a newly joined and super excited vet student, took me to see their baby chickens and sheep.

For those of us city slickers who don’t realize, raising animals can include submitting them into competitions (which may or may not include photo shoots with hair dryers and floofing), selling fertilized eggs online during the pandemic (so people can hatch chicks), sheering the wool off of sheep (which cost more than the wool itself), and putting trays and trays of fresh eggs in the honesty box out front.

All of this is new to me, and as Cameron unveils this secret world, I put together the pieces of the chicken photo shoot puzzle.

The day before, Emma told a story that she just got off a Zoom call when she sees her kids walk out back with a hair dryer and a brush. She doesna wanna know. And now, Cameron, talking about primping a chicken for a competition.

In fairness, it is a beautiful chicken.

When I refer to “the farm”, I mean that in actuality. In addition to chickens, roosters, and sheep, Glenegedale House also has a pair of horses. You’ll always cross paths with Millie, their daughter, with her shy smile on her horse.

All of these are delightful sights and experiences for someone who spends most of their time in cities (or conflict zones!). Not to mention, who doesn’t want to hold baby chicks while on holiday???

8. Things to do near Glenegedale House

Islay is a small island, sizewise. The below list is just showing what is within the vicinity of Glenegedale House. For other places on the island, which are easily accessible by car or bus from Glenegedale, I have written about them in other posts, here and here. Feel free to check it out!

8.1 Port Ellen

Port Ellen (actually pronounced POR-tellen) is one of the bustling towns on Islay – the other being Bowmore. You can find everything you need in Port Ellen – the post office, grocery stores, a gas station, and some delightful small businesses. In fact, Port Ellen may even be your first stop on Islay from the CalMac ferry.

I’m only listing my favorite businesses in Port Ellen below – there will be more soon, but I didn’t manage to visit during covid times!

8.1.1 Sea Salt Bistro

One of your meals on Islay has to be at Sea Salt Bistro. And I absolutely insist on this. Gorgeously fresh seafood, amazing service, and unforgettable food!

Do I still think of this seafood linguini every single day? Obviously, yes.

8.1.2 The Blue Letterbox

The Blue Letterbox is combination post office and gift shop, and is a must-visit for gifts from your stay in Port Ellen. The shop proudly showcases items from local producers from Islay, as well as nearby Colonsay and Jura.

For me, a couple of tea towels and some sea glass jewelry.

But not only that, there was a snafu when I visited – the Blue Letterbox also does currency exchange from USD to GBP when there are issues with the bank or ATM!

8.2 Distilleries near Glenegedale House

Islay currently has 9 distilleries, with three of them within walking distance of Port Ellen town! Not only are these the closest distilleries to Glenegedale House, but they’re also the three that comprise the Three Distilleries Walk. During that walk, you come by the southern Islay distilleries:

• Laphroaig – the super peated favorite of Outlander star, Sam Heughan,
• Lagavulin – a peated favorite of Parks and Rec star, Nick Offerman,
• Ardbeg – a distillery and whisky that is new to me! I have an unopened bottle of Ardbeg, An Oa, waiting for me.

You can also visit all of the distilleries individually, and by car. Don’t worry – if you’re the designated driver (or going solo like I do!) you can attend the tour and enjoy the tasting (more the smells, and perhaps a little sip). Your whiskies will come in a nifty to-go bottle so you can enjoy it later.

If you’re not a drinker, don’t worry – the walk is a delight in itself! But for me, I’m looking forward to visiting all three of these and learning more about their rich Islay and scotch history!

You also don’t need to walk there and back – take the bus! or call for a taxi! The walk is good to work off your whisky tastings and food you’ve eaten at one of the distilleries delicious restaurants!

Even though this is not a full distillery, it will be very soon! The old Port Ellen Distillery was first established as a malt mill in 1825 (with a stint in the middle distilling whisky). It was recently announced by Diageo that they would re-open Port Ellen as a whisky distillery. I think COVID has pushed back those plans, but keep your eyes open! Spirits coming soon.

8.3 The Big Strand Beach

Ok, everyone wants to stay at a place with a view, but what about a beach within walking distance?

I give you – the Big Strand Beach. Within walking distance of Glenegedale House. The best start to your morning, the best idea during your day, the best way to wind down for your evening.

8.4 Hike around the American Monument and the Mull of Oa

The Mull of Oa (pronounced “oh” haha) is a peninsula in the southwest of Islay. Located in between Glenegedale House and Port Ellen, it’s a nice afternoon hike out to the cliffs and the American Monument. You can even glimpse some highland coos up on the way to the monument. 

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

8.5 Historical Sites near Glenegedale House

8.5.1 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

8.5.2 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton). Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

Gorgeous deer with stnning eyelashes on my way to Kildaton Cross. Same deer, different lens.

8.6 Other notables on Islay (and neighboring Jura!)

As I said earlier, Islay is not a big island. While the above is just a list of things to do near Glenegedale House, everything on the island is easily accessible, anywhere you stay. The below list of places stood out to me, as places I would definitely visit again next time on Islay, and places I’d love to visit once they’ve re-opened for COVID times.

8.6.1 Bowmore

• Spirited Soaps! A locally owned soap shop, which includes Islay and Jura spirits in their soaps and personal care products.
• Peatzeria – need I say more from the name?
• Bowmore Distillery – the named after Bowmore, the capital of Islay. Can you think of a more classic whisky than a delicious Bowmore?

8.6.2 Rhinns of Islay and the Western side of the island

• Port Charlotte Hotel – an amazing bed and breakfast, with a famous whisky pub and live music!
• Bruichladdich Distillery – with their famous light blue bottling and Octomore, heavily peated brand,
• Kilchoman Distillery – Islay’s farm distillery – they grow most of their own barley and have a traditional malting floor!
• Portnahaven – fishing village, with views of the lighthouse and the place for seal sighting!

8.6.3 The Northern part of the island

• Caol Ila Distillery – the main spirit inside Johnnie Walker’s Black Label! Whisky lovers, did you know that?? Currently closed for renovations;
• Bunnahabhain Distillery – another whisky that I know very little about, and am excited to learn more! If you happen to visit the distillery, I hear there is a shipwreck on the beach nearby!
• Ardnahoe Distillery – Islay’s newest distillery! Their whiskies are in the process of maturing right now, but the distillery and shop have a delicious cafe, with a gorgeous view out to Jura.

8.6.4 Nearby Jura

• Lussa Gin – continue your hunt for great spirits (with great stories) on the neighboring island of Jura!
• Jura Distillery – visit the distillery, whose whisky was a source of comfort through first lockdown! Jura, the Sound, was the last bottle I picked up at duty free on my way to lockdown.
• The Jura Hotel – I didn’t get to visit during my time on Jura, but I hear their venison burgers are the highlight! Definitely coming back next time!
• Visit Barnhill – where George Orwell isolated himself and wrote 1984. It’s located off of a private drive (and involves a hike if you want to see the house ).

8.6.5 Map for your Islay holiday

9. Parting Thoughts on Glenegedale House

I was so happy to stay at Glenegedale House during my first trip to Islay, and again when I needed a little staycation. There are so many things that I loved! From Graeme and Emma’s kind and warm hospitality, to the constant flow of fresh baked goods, hot coffees, and rich whiskies. They were the kind of hosts that make you feel like family, rather than a visiting guest!

Emma’s smile and laughs are extremely contagious and can fill any room. They were always quick to help (i.e. my bank snafu) or get another whisky (“in 2 shakes”, as Emma always says). And they give the best itinerary suggestions if you haven’t fully researched your trip yet!

There is a reason Glenegedale House won Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. It is truly a wonderful place to stay, and the best luxury accommodation on Islay!

10. Important details for your stay at Glenegedale House

Glenegedale House
Isle of Islay
Argyll, PA42 7AS

Contact:
Email: info@glenegedalehouse.co.uk
Tel: +44 01496 300 400
Mob: +44 07554 669 664

Due to covid, Glenegedale House has flexible booking terms. Send them a note if you have questions! And follow them on Social Media below!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

But before I begin, I know we Americans want to pronounce Charlotte like SHAR-lett (in the same vein of Charlotte McDougal York from Sex and the City).  But I’m here to tell you that that on Islay, it’s pronounced more phonetically – CHAR-lett.  Say it out loud.  Port CHAR-lett.  Now you’ve got it. And now, onto my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

did you say it right?

1. Where is Port Charlotte, Islay?

Port Charlotte is a village located on the western side of Islay, on the Rhinns of Islay (a peninsula that juts out from the rest of the island).  Now, Islay is not a big island, and you can probably drive the whole length of the island in about an hour.  But believe me – it’s a different feel on the other side of the island! 

1.1 How to reach Port Charlotte by Ferry / Car

If your ferry disembarks from Port Askaig, it will take you about 25 minutes to reach Port Charlotte. From the ferry port, head south on A846 for 7.8 miles, and then turn right at Bridgend onto A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

If you’re coming from Port Ellen, it will take you about 30 minutes to Port Charlotte. Since Port Ellen is at the southern tip of the island, you’ll drive north on B8016 (the funnest straight road to drive in Islay) for about 9 miles. You’ll reach the end of B8016, and take a slight right onto A846 for 0.7 miles. As you reach Bridgend, you’ll turn left on A847 and continue west for 7.7 miles.

1.2 How to reach Port Charlotte from the Islay Airport

When you exit the airport, turn left onto A846. After about 5 miles, you’ll begin to enter into the town of Bowmore. Turn left onto Main Street in Bowmore (at the round church).

If you want a little stop on Main Street Bowmore, check out Spirited Soaps, for some homemade soaps with your favorite Islay and Jura whiskies and gins as a base!

Once you hit the end of Main Street, A846 turns right and you continue on for less than 3 miles when you reach Bridgend, and turn left onto A847 for the last 7.7 miles of your journey onto Port Charlotte.

2. Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

When doing my research, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay consistently came up as having amazing food, and a lively, award-winning whisky bar. Since its housed inside the village of Port Charlotte itself, it’s a really social place to stay in Islay. Delightful hotel, amazing food, and a village-watering-hole feel?  Yes, yes – that’s kind of exactly what I’m looking for.

When I arrived in Port Charlotte, I immediately fell in love with the village.  With gorgeous white-washed houses, and stunning views of the bay, it was almost like a Scottish version of Santorini.  Of course, with different weather.  Normally, the Port Charlotte Hotel has both outdoor dining and a dining conservatory with views of the bay. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the village of Bowmore across the sea. 

Now that you have a feel of the place, onward to my stay!

3. My Stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay for two nights in August 2020, for £180 per night in the high season.  This included an amazing breakfast, which I’ll get to as well.  To skip everything and jump down to the costs, click here.

As a result of COVID-19, check in took place from behind a plexiglass window, with hand sanitizers around.  I was given my key and check in papers in a sealed envelope.  This is the world of hospitality now. 

The envelope included information about their COVID-19 safety measures, as well as a dinner menu.  I made dinner reservations in advance, as was suggested by the hotel a few days prior.  If you know me, you know I love making reservations in advance, even if it’s not required.  I like to know where my next meal comes from.

After arriving in Room 1 and taking a luxurious soak in the bath tub, I was ready to relax in my room and take in the stunning views.  By that time, the weather changed, and it became a rainy and extremely stormy rest of the afternoon.  From the bed, I could look out to the Islay lighthouse, and watch the ebbs and flows of the stormy sea.  So relaxing. 

And the next thing you know, it’s time for dinner. 

4. Dining at the Port Charlotte Hotel, Islay

Even before I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I already heard about its legendary meals. Chef Chris Martin is the brainchild behind the hearty and delicious traditional Scottish fare at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

Below is a collage of my meals during my stay.

Since I don’t know if you’re viewing this on your phone or a laptop, i’ll just share what you may find in these photos:

• two full Scottish breakfasts – why two? because they were both AMAZINGLY delicious and I obviously had to share;
• the interior of the restaurant in the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay;
• Dinner consisting of:
  • hand dived scallops with black pudding bonbon,
  • chocolate lava cake for dessert,
  • a rob roy chicken (don’t know what that is? I wrote about it before, here);
• Another dinner consisting of: seafood chowder (smoked haddock, salmon, prawns), and traditional fish & chips (Islay ale battered haddock).

Do you see what I mean about the delicious food on offer at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay?? Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, the restaurant is an institution on Islay and you just absolutely have to eat there!

The menu changes per season and dinner mains range from 14 GBP to 30 GBP ($19 USD to $40 USD),

For those on Islay now, they’re currently open for takeaway!

5. The Port Charlotte Bar

If you wanna experience village life, there is no better place than the bar at the Port Charlotte Hotel. Don’t let the photos lead you astray. It was empty in the below photos only momentarialy, and then locals and tourists alike began to meander in. Warmed by the roaring fire and smokey, peaty whiskies, this was the perfect place to spend an afternoon while the rain and wind kept most of us inside.

I was in the mood for a peaty whisky to warm me up. It’d been a driech few months of rain and wind, and that day in Islay was no different. Gary, the bartender, recommended the Ardbeg 10. He served it alongside some pleasant conversation. Gary is a former police officer (not from Islay), who walked into the bar five or six years ago, and as the story goes, he never left.

Back to the Ardbeg 10. Vanilla and heavily peated, with a finish that’s been described as,

“Long and glorious; sea salted caramel and beach bonfire smoke.”

Master of Malt

Perfect for a cold and windy Islay day.

6. Distilleries and brewery near Port Charlotte Islay

If you’re staying on Islay, of course whiskies or other adult beverages have to be on your itinerary. Here’s a list of all the whisky and gin distilleries, and one craft beer brewery, on this side of Islay. Easily to reach from your comfy, cozy room at the Port Charlotte Hotel.

6.1 Kilchoman – Islay’s Farm Distillery

I had the pleasure of touring Kilchoman when I visited Islay in July 2020. Known as Islay’s farm distillery, Kilchoman is proud to grow most of their own barley on their farmlands. I bet you didn’t realize that most of distilleries buy their barley! Not only that, Kilchoman is one of the only distilleries that still has a traditional malting floor, to malt their own barley.

Not only did I tour the distillery, but I also did a tasting on the beach at Machir Bay with them. It was an absolute joy and highly recommended when the weather warms up! Loved trying their Machir Bay single malt in Machir Bay!

6.2 Bruichladdich Distillery

I first became familiar with Bruichladdich, when a friend brought their famous blue “The Classic Laddie” bottle back from a duty free shop in the airport. The distillery produces three different brands of whiskies, which ranges from unpeated to super heavily peated whiskies:

• Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) – an unpeated, single malt Scotch;
• Port Charlotte – the heavily peated, single malt;
• and Octomore – the super heavily peated, single malt.

Currently, the distillery is closed to visitors (due to pre-planned construction in 2020). But is anticipated to reopen in 2021!

The Botanist Gin from Bruichladdich

One of the things I really wanted to do on Islay (but no, coronavirus had other plans) was to go on a foraging walk with the people who make The Botanist Gin. Made with 22 types of botanicals by the people at Bruichladdich Distillery, The Botanist is one of two Islay gins.

To me, gin is more of a spring and summer drink. Can’t wait for some warm sunshine to go with a refreshing G&T!

6.3 Nerabus Islay Gin

The other gin produced on Islay is from Nerabus. Their shop and visitor center is located in Bridgend. Not really on the Rhinns peninsula, but pretty darn close!

I’ve never tried Nerabus Gin, but it is the only dedicated gin production on Islay! Made in small batches with luscious spring water on Islay, Nerabus gin is infused with wild Islay heather.

6.4 Islay Ales

Well, if Nerabus Islay Gin is not technically on the Rhinns peninsula, then neither is its neighbor – Islay Ales. But, in the spirit of spirits on “this side” the island, Islay Ales is the only brewery on Islay.

Their beers, like whisky, comes from barley. The barley in Islay Ales – yep, you guessed it – comes straight from the island.

You can fine Islay Ales across the island and enjoy a tasting flight at the brewery itself. Here’s me, cheersing the island, with their Big Strand Craft Lager.

7. Other things to do near Port Charlotte Islay

1. Take a stroll on the beach! Machir Bay and Saligo Bay are nearby. White sands and clear blue waters sound more like the Caribbean than in Scotland. Don’t let the moody backdrop of the sky fool you – it’s gorgeous in any weather.
2. Go back in time with a vist to the Museum of Islay Life, right in Port Charlotte.
3. Go way further back in time, at the Kilnave Chapel and Cross. The chapel dates to the late 14th century, whereas the cross was built between the 5th – 8th century.
4. See some seals lounging around in and around Portnahaven and its neighboring village, Port Wemyss. Stroll along the coast to see views of the Rhinns of Islay lighthouse.
5. Spend the day observing some wildlife at Loch Gruinart nature reserve.

It’s easy to venture beyond Port Charlotte and the Rhinns to the rest of Islay. To help plan your trip, check out my Ultimate Guide to Islay.

8. Parting thoughts on my stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

If I could sum up my stay at the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay, I’d have to say it was:

cozy

homey

warm

delicious

If this is what you’re looking for, with a side of a lively village bar, the Port Charlotte Hotel Islay is absolutely your place!

9. Important details for your stay at Port Charlotte Hotel Islay

Port Charlotte Hotel
Port Charlotte,
Isle of Islay,
PA48 7TU.

Contact:
Email: info@portcharlottehotel.co.uk
Tele : +44 01496 850360

Cost:

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

To introduce you to my beloved island off of the west coast of Scotland, located in the Inner Hebrides, Islay is one of Scotland’s famous whisky distilling regions. The other whisky regions being: Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside and Campbeltown. (Sometimes “the Islands”, i.e. Skye, Jura, Arran, Orkney, Mull, are also a separate whisky region, but not technically according to regulation…) Each whisky region has its own set of unique characteristics that impact the taste and flavors of the whisky.

Before I get into the meat of the article, which extends beyond Islay whisky, let me lay some groundwork on Scotch Whisky. I’ll then pay some homage to Islay whisky and its culture of peaty whiskies.

1. Scotch Whisky

Well, first of all, Scotch Whisky is protected by law – set forth by the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulation. To be designated as a whisky from Scotland, or a Scotch, it must adhere to the following requirements:

• Made in Scotland from only cereals, water and yeast
• Matured for a minimum of 3 years in oak casks
• Bottled at a minimum strength of 40% abv
• Distilled below 94.8% abv so that it retains the flavour and aroma derived from its raw materials
• No flavouring or sweetening is permitted

– From the Scotch Whisky Association

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, to be defined as a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, “the whisky must be distilled at a single distillery from water and malted barley without the addition of any other cereals, and by batch distillation in copper pot stills. Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be bottled in Scotland.”

2. What makes Islay whisky special?

2.1 Peaty Islay Whisky? Blame it on the weather!

Allow me to clarify that I am not an expert in whisky, Islay, or Islay whisky. Obviously, there are better sources out there. I’ll share what I know and what I’ve found out. So, grab your wellies and rain coat, much of the peaty history of Islay whisky is owed to the island’s climate.

Islay is so wet the island never really dries. Throughout the year, like much of Scotland, the abundant grasses, mosses and shrubs live and die in perpetual bog. Over centuries, the resultant decaying matter creates a dense black substance. (*Lannie clarification – this is peat.)

But on Islay, seaweed and the wind-blown sea salt give the peat unique characteristics. Once cut and dried on firmer ground, the peat can then be burnt in a manner similar to coal.

Peat, bog and world-class whisky – why Islay remains the jewel in Scotland’s single-malt crown

Say what? Peat is decayed vegetation? Well sure, why not. Is that weird? I mean, weird things are kinda the best. Above is a picture of peat, that have been hand cut into squares. I imagined peat to be dense and heavy, but it’s surprisingly light. And it doesn’t smell “peaty.” I guess that only comes when you burn it.

Why would I want to visit if there’s decayed vegetation in their whiskies? Keep reading to find out!

2.2 Peat and Smokiness

If you were to break down the steps of producing a single-malt whisky, it’d be:

1. Malting the barley
2. Fermentation
3. Distillation
4. Filling the casks
5. Maturation in the casks
6. Bottling

Peat is “inserted” into the barley grains in the malting process, when you dry the damp malt over peat-heated fire. The level of smokiness depends on how long the malt is dried over peat-heated fire. The process of drying the malt over fire usually takes about 30 hours. Laphroaig, as a prime example of Islay whisky, uses peat in about 17 of the 30 hours, which gives it a rich peatiness, or what they call ‘peat reek’.

So now you know, why Islay whiskies are peaty. Because the island is covered in a damp, peat bog, and they use these hundreds or thousands of year old decaying plant life to fuel the fire that dries the malt. And the longer the peated fire dries the malt, the smokier it becomes. Voila! Islay whisky = peaty, smokiness. Mini whisky lesson achieved!

2.3 Visit Islay’s Whisky Distilleries

No one really knows when whisky distillation began. The first official record of malt distillation went back to 1494 when King James IV of Scotland was sent 500 bottles of spirit. Following a malt tax levied in 1725, many of the early whisky distilleries went “underground” to hide from the tax man. Underground is a loose term. On Islay, many illicit stills were hiding out in the caves that bend and curve around our island. By 1823, the Excise Act was passed that legalized distillation for a fee.

Here is a list of all of the Islay whisky distilleries in alphabetical order (including local pronunciations):

1. Ardbeg – (ard-BEG)
2. Ardnahoe – (ARD-na-hoe)
3. Bowmore – (b’MORE)
4. Bruichladdich (BROOK-laddie)
5. Bunnahabhain (BUN-a-HAV-en)
6. Caol Ila – (cull-EE-la)
7. Kilchoman (kil-HO-man)
8. Lagavulin – (LAG-a-VU-lin)
9. Laphroiag – (La-FROIG)

If you’re determined to visit all of the distilleries when you visit Islay, be sure to check out their websites for the most up to date opening information!

.

For those who are superbly detail oriented, you’ll notice 10 distilleries in the first photo showing Islay whisky distilleries, and only 9 of them named above. The missing one from the list is – Port Ellen Maltings (POR-tellen). The distillery was founded in 1825, but ceased distilling in 1929. However, the maltings and warehousing operations continued.

To this day, Port Ellen Maltings supplies the malt to most of Islay’s distilleries, to each distillery’s secret specifications. But get excited, Islay whisky lovers! In 2017, Diageo announced that Port Ellen Distillery will begin distilling again in 2020. Not sure how covid has affected these plans. But let’s just say the old Port Ellen Whiskies are highly sought after, so there is something to look forward to!

Diageo is no stranger to whisky, holding such brands like Caol Ila and Lagavulin (and now Port Ellen) on Islay, and others like Royal Lochnagar, Talisker, and Oban.

2.4 Can I visit Islay without being a whisky fan?

I get asked this question a lot. The answer is YES. Being a whisky fan is not a requirement to visit Islay. However, you might surprise yourself!

Prior to 2019, I had only tasted whisky on my Edinburgh food tour and visited one distillery. But I liked the idea of whisky as a hobby and was excited to learn more.

Since then, I’ve spent more time in both Speyside and Islay embracing this whisky culture. With each new expression, I was drawn in.

But fear not – you can still have an incredible Islay holiday, even if you’re not partaking in the Scotch! Hopefully, my post will introduce you to more of Islay than just its whisky.

3. How to get to Islay

Well, considering it is an island, there’s really only a few ways to visit Islay. For me, since I was already on a road trip, it involved my trusty rental car and a ferry reservation. But for those who don’t want to do that, you can also arrive by air.

Get your bearings straight before you visit Islay. If you love maps like I do, the Ordnance Survey map of Islay is perfect purchase for the travel planner and inner cartographer! Maps covering the full island, North Islay, and South Islay.

3.1 By Air

You can fly into Islay, domestically, non-stop from Glasgow on Loganair’s daily, nonstop return from – 160 – 200 GBP.

If you fly, I’d still recommend you rent a car after you arrive. So, instead of that, why not just take the ferry with your rental car and visit Islay from the mainland?

3.2 By Sea

Roundtrip ferry fares to and from Islay (one person, with a car) is about 80 GBP. You can also board the ferry as a single, foot passenger, or with a bicycle, as I saw many people do. But that still requires you to make your way to Kennacraig on the mainland. For additional help, see: How to get to Islay, using public transport from Glasgow.

CalMac Ferries run several daily ferries from mainland Scotland (Kennecraig) to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig on Islay. The ferry ride is very simple, and my ride to Port Askaig took around 2 hours.

You can also arrive to Islay on a seasonal, passenger ferry from Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. I’ve included step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast in this post.

3.3 By Tour

For those wanting a guided tour of Islay and the Whisky Isles (which means you can drink without arranging taxis or having to worry about a designated driver), Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! Starting at 335£ for a 4 day tour!

4. The 2 best places to stay for your Islay holiday

My first time on Islay, I stayed on the island for one week. I decided to break it up and stay in 2 different places on different parts of the island:

• Glenegedale House in the south,
• Port Charlotte Hotel in the Rinns of Islay, on the western part of the island.

Personally, this was a great idea. Glenegedale was quiet, homey and everything that I wanted. Port Charlotte Hotel sits inside the village of Port Charlotte, and is home to an award winning Whisky Pub. This gives it a lively atmosphere, even given physical distancing. Both have world class hospitality and are known for their amazing food. All the things that I wanted on my trip!

Visit the detailed posts on both accommodations, The Port Charlotte Hotel and Glenegedale House, and their food!

4.1 Glenegedale House

I was the first guest to Glenegedale House after lockdown lifted in July 2020. You may think that made me apprehensive, but their genuine, warm hospitality made me feel right at home! They were ready to operate in a post-covid world, and made sure their guests felt comfortable during their post-lockdown stay.

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a beautifully designed double room. Laying in bed, I had a view of the sea. It was glorious. Every morning, I woke up and turned onto my side, toward the window to watch the sea. In all my days there, I never took a photo out that window, but you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Not only is Glenegedale known for their beautiful hospitality, they are also known for their food! Their breakfasts were absolutely stunning.

During my stay at Glenegedale, I was introduced to (now, one of my favorites) porridge with whisky. Is this a tourist gimmick? Actually not. Locals will take their porridge (oatmeal for us Americans) with:

• brown sugar,
• whisky (in my case, a 10 year Laphroaig),
• and some heavy cream.

Sound intense? It’s actually really wonderful. The brown sugar offsets any of the intensity of the scotch, and you’re left with this smoky, creamy oatmeal. There are two ways to eat this – one where you mix it all together, and the other where you eat it bit by bit. I’ll let you guess which one I did.

Did I get drunk off of this? Actually, no! And it was so delicious, I had it with breakfast every single morning. It paired beautifully with their selection of home-poached fruit!

Lastly, Glenegedale House is located right next to the airport and within a 10 minute drive to Port Ellen. It is ideally located to visit the three (heavily peaty) distilleries in the south – Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig!

A big thank you to the Glenegedale House!
For my full review, click here!

*I should mention that there are hand sanitizing stations located throughout public spaces. Face shields are worn at meal and face masks at welcome. Don’t worry about it!

4.2 The Port Charlotte Hotel

Port Charlotte, a beautiful village on the western peninsula of Islay, is home to an equally beautiful namesake hotel – the Port Charlotte Hotel. Even before I arrived at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I heard about the fun whisky bar and its amazing restaurant. This trip was all about soaking up the local whisky culture, the food scene, and Islay’s delicious hospitality. And the Port Charlotte Hotel did not disappoint on any front!

Experiencing hospitality in the age of covid-19 is odd in itself, let’s be real. I knew I was in good hands at the Port Charlotte Hotel. They updated their reception area with a screen, to create space between the guest and host. But it didn’t feel unfriendly or impersonal. Each time I walked by, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and (even in July) the warmth of a roaring fire in the sitting room.

I stayed in Room 1, a double room, with a luscious sea view you could enjoy straight from bed. I don’t have any good photos of that view, because those moments that I spent in bed were particularly rainy. When the rain cleared, you could see across to the Loch Indaal House (lighthouse).

Before I arrived in Port Charlotte, I had heard tales of how amazing the food was here. And let me tell you – the breakfasts and dinners at the Port Charlotte Hotel were phenomenal! The food was so delicious and extremely fresh and high quality! When you visit Islay, there are no excuses for eating a subpar meal when you have food like this!

The beauty of a full Scottish Breakfast

From Port Charlotte, it’s easy to swing by Kilchoman Distillery and Bruichladdich Distillery, which are also located on the western peninsula. Check the distillery websites for the most up to date information on opening times and COVID-19 measures!

A big thank you to the Port Charlotte Hotel!
For my full review, click here.

*Along with hand sanitizing stations throughout, and the screen at reception, face masks are worn by servers in the restaurant.

5. Things to do in Islay – its Historical Sites

It’s easy to get starstuck with its gorgeous whiskies and hospitality when you visit Islay. But this island offers a rich history with interesting sites to see!

5.1 Finlaggan Castle

On the isle of Eilean Mór on Loch Finlaggan, is Finlaggan Castle. (Say that again? A castle on an island, in a lake, on an island…)

Well, technically, the ruins of Finlaggan Castle – once the seat of power for the Lord of the Isles, and the stronghold of Clan Donald. The Lord of the Isles controlled the Isle of Man, the Hebrides, Knoydart, Ardnamurchan, and the Kintyre Peninsula, as well as the Glens of Antrim across the sea in Northern Ireland. At the height of their power, Clan Donald was the greatest landowner and one of the most powerful lords in Britain, after the Kings of England and Scotland themselves.

In medieval times, there were more than 20 structures on the island, including homes, workshops, and storehouses, which were made of both wood and stone. The above photo is of the Great Hall and is one of a few structures still standing.

The castle and accompanying chapel were likely built in the 13th century. Clan Donald held Finlaggan Castle and the Lordship of the Isles until in 1493. The end of the MacDonald Lords came when King James IV of Scotland seized all their ancestral homelands, estates, and titles.

Currently, the title of the Lord of the Isles still exists! The title of Lord of the Isles is held by the Duke of Rothesay (the equivalent of the Prince of Wales in Scotland), better known to the rest of us as Prince William.

Marshy land on the way to Finlaggan Castle.
This marshy, boggy land is perfect for peat cultivation.

Today, the Finlaggan Trust runs a visitor center and maintains the wooden jetty across Loch Finlaggan to the ruins. Without the jetty, the isle and castle ruins would be cut off from visitors. It is a short, but lovely walk from the visitor center and car park to the jetty. Don’t miss the honesty box for donations to help the upkeep and maintenance!

5.2 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

5.3 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton).

Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

It is an incredible site to see!!

5.4 Museum of Islay Life

To get the most out of your Islay trip, a visit to the Museum of Islay Life up in Port Charlotte is a must. It’s a walk back in time, from when the island was first settled (from prehistoric times) to present day. It also has so many artifacts collected over the years from real Ileachs (pronounced EE-lokh, and meaning a person who comes from Islay). A wonderfully curated collection!

Some of the really fun “old things” that I enjoyed seeing (in complete random order), a pre-electric iron, old photographs, butter molds (with thistle designs and everything!), an original sodastream machine from ages ago! There was a huge variety of things, but also easy for you to walk through and take it all in!

And of course, the history of Islay whisky and its illicit stills. I won’t entirely give it away, but the story has to do with the tax man (excise tax) and the need to have to hide their whisky from the tax man. Hide it in caves, hide it in coffins, you name it – there was whisky hiding. I absolutely loved seeing the old photos of the distilleries and the workers, as well as the peat tools you see above! A walk back into time!

Located within walking distance of the Port Charlotte Hotel. So, if you’re staying there, pop on over. If you’re staying elsewhere, definitely stop by for a meal before or after!

5.5 Islay Woolen Mill

Hidden among the Bridgend Woods, The Islay Woolen Mill was first established in 1883. Using two restored Dobcross looms from the 1920s, the Covell family have been working together since 1981 to weave luscious cloth. The old looms are definitely a sight to see! You might recognize some of the designs, as their cloth designs have featured in Braveheart and Forrest Gump to name a few. Commemorate your visit to Islay with an official distillery tartan scarf or throw!

6. Best outdoor things to do in Islay

6.1 Beaches

Most people wouldn’t think it, but one of the best things to do in Islay is to visit the beautiful beaches! There are more beaches that I haven’t gone to yet, but here are some you should put on your list when you visit Islay.

6.1.1 Machir Bay

Located near the Kilchoman Distillery, Machir Bay is a beautiful sand beach. During low tide, you can see remnants of a shipwreck. Maybe you want to stop by Kilchoman on the way to Machir Bay, so that you can enjoy a Machir Bay Whisky at Machir Bay.

6.1.2 Saligo Bay

Saligo Bay is generally considered Islay’s most beautiful beach! It is absolutely stunning, with large rock formations around. As you can see from the photo below, it wasn’t beautifully sunny the day that I went, but I still enjoyed a long walk along the beach.

6.1.3 White Hart Beach

Watch this video on YouTube.

The White Hart Beach is located right when you enter the Port Ellen, just opposite the hotel at No. 1 Charlotte Street. This is a favorite of mine, with views of Port Ellen Maltings and the village of Port Ellen itself. Sometimes you’ll find me beachcombing for sea glass.

6.1.4 Claggain Bay

Unlike all of the above, the beach at Claggain Bay is a pebble beach, not sand. It’s perfect to stop by following a visit to the Kildalton Cross. It’s kind of out there, but beautiful and well worth it! From my conversations with locals, this is often their favorite!

6.2 Best Walks on Islay

There are a number of incredible walks and hikes for your Islay trip. Even though you can get your steps in, you better be prepared with the right clothes! Chances are, it may rain, but prepare your wellies! You may step into some mud or peat bog.

These walks are kind of a must when you visit Islay – to see the views, yes, but also to make some room for more delicious food!

6.2.1 American Monument

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

The Tuscania, carrying over 2,000 soldiers and 300 crew, sank 7 miles off the coast of Islay. A German UB-77 submarine torpedoed the Tuscania, resulting in a direct hit. Eight months later, closer to Machir Bay, the HMS Otranto collided with HMS Kashmir during a heavy storm. Over 400 British and American troops were lost. Many are buried in the Kilchoman military cemetary.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

For more trails, download AllTrails+

6.2.2 Around Portnahaven

Everyone in Islay will tell you Portnahaven is a delightful fishing village on that side of the island. And it’s true – I definitely agree. I would even put it as one of the must-see places when you visit Islay.

I spent a few hours walking around the village and the next village over, Port Wemyss. Just off the coast, on Orsay, is the Rinns of Islay Lighthouse.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get to see some seals lounging around in the Portnahaven harbor. Or, if you have a massive zoom lens like I now do, you’ll see them lounging at the base of the lighthouse.

Curious what lens I used for this? My new Sigma 150-600mm. The seal was shot at 600mm. I have to admit that I absolutely love it. (Even if it does weigh almost 4.5 pounds, and is super ginormous…)

6.2.3 Three Distilleries Path

The Three Distilleries Path is arguably my favorite walk on Islay and probably one of the best walks on Islay. It is a one way walk from Port Ellen to Ardbeg Distillery, passing Laphroaig and Lagavulin along the way. It’s about 6 km in total and is a one way trip. For me, I like to take the bus from Port Ellen (for 2£) down to Ardbeg, and walk back. Feel free to read all about my walk along the Three Distilleries Path when I did a whisky tasting along the way.

For those who love the purple blanket of bluebells, there are lots between Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig! But if bluebells are your thing…

6.2.4 Bridgend Woods

Located just opposite Islay House Square, bridgend woods is just off of the main road between Port Askaig and Bridgend. However, don’t let that bustling road traffic fool you. Within seconds, you’re in the quiet sanctuary or what feels like an ancient forest. There are lots of walking path options within the woods, and I’ve really only done a fraction of it!

But, between May and June, Bridgend Woods is the place on Islay for bluebells. They blanket the whole forest floor, and really, everywhere you go! But don’t go frolocking in the fields and take those stereotypial flower field instagram photos. Bluebells are extremely delicate and will die off if trampled upon!

6.2.5 Bruichladdich Walking Path

The newest walking path on Islay is surely becoming one of my favorites. The Bruichladdich Walking Path connects the villages of Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte, via a paved coastal path. Go down to the secret beach at Port Ban and admire the Bruichladdich Islay-grown barley waving to you in the wind. The path is great for cyclists and walkers of all ages.

I’ve added the Bruichladdich Walking Path to AllTrails because it’s such a great walk. Download AllTrails Pro download offline maps, find nearby trails, and more!

6.3 Boat adventures

Islay Sea Adventures has the great tours for adults and families alike. Recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Best Outdoor/Adventure Activity, and having been on several of their boat trips, going on a boat with Islay Sea Adventures is definitely one of the best things to do in Islay!

During the tourist season, they have daily sailings for wildlife tours, fishing trips, seafood trips, and sunset boat trips! I’ve been on several of Islay Sea Adventures trips – the most popular being the wildlife trip. Most trips begin from Port Ellen and sail the southern tip, with views of the southern Islay distilleries, and then on over to a special area of conservation for more seal and deer spotting!

Those who are seafood-obsessed, you have to go on their Seafood Special Tour! The seafood special to includes a special stop in a bay. Captain Harold then takes to the gas grill with some hand dived scallops, butter and herbs. The smell alone is intoxicating. Inside, there’s lobster and crab, salad and some bread waiting for you. An absolute feast on the seas!!

7. My favorite MUST VISIT Islay small businesses

7.1 Sea Salt in Port Ellen

Sea Salt is a delightful bistro that comes highly recommended for an amazing meal. It’s one of those places that is so good, maybe you visit twice during your first trip! Ok, that is exactly what I did.

I ate at Sea Salt on my first night in Islay, upon the recommendation of Emma from Glenegedale. What I ordered set off a chain reaction of “wooo, what’s she eating?” To which I happily replied, “The seafood linguini. You won’t regret it!”

The second time I visited Sea Salt, I had an amazing fish and chips. The fish was super fresh, with light and crispy batter. I honestly thought about having the seafood linguini again, but that would be silly. And sometimes, you just wanna go for the classics!

At this point, I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve eaten at Sea Salt, for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

7.2 Spirited Soaps in Bowmore

One of the shops I came across in Islay is Spirited Soaps, which became a pillar of the community during a hand sanitizer shortage on the island. Along with Bruichladdich Distillery, Spirited Soaps addressed the community shortage on the island by creating Islay Hand Sanitiser, which you can find sprinkled everywhere a hand sanitizing station is needed on Islay.

Spirited Soaps happily marries Islay’s whisky tradition with soap and personal care products. Although I may be simplifying this, all soaps contain some alcohol. So, why not use the alcohol that the island is famous for? They’ve interestingly used parts of the malted barley of all 9 Islay distilleries (and Lussa Gin and Jura Distillery on neighboring Jura) to create unique, beautiful soaps of different scents and smells. Islay whisky soap? Lussa Gin soap? Count me in! These soaps don’t necessarily smell like your traditional, peated Islay whisky or alcoholic spirits!

When I visited Bowmore, I had a lovely chat with Gemma, the new proprietress of Spirited Soaps. She happened to be cutting small soap bars from a giant block when I entered the shop.

I looked in awe at all of the different soaps and lotions and creams. In pre-covid times, I would be opening up each jar, smelling them, testing out samples…the whole nine yards. That day, I hesitated and told Gemma of that hesitation. She said that since I sanitized my hands (with Islay Hand Sanitiser, made by Spirited Soaps) when I first walked in the shop, it was alright to open, smell and test anything.

The thing that I found super interesting, was most distilleries did not want their soaps to smell like their spirits. For example, Laphroaig specifically did not – instead, their soap smells like peppermint! Also, there’s grist in Kilchoman’s soaps! I picked up a few bars of soaps as gifts and for myself. A Laphroaig bar for my dear friend who loves their peaty whiskies, and a Lussa Gin bar to pair with the bottle I’d buy for another friend as a gift!

Last but not least, they’ve recently changed their soap packaging to be plastic free! Printed by It’s a Wrap UK, in a carbon neutral factory, the inks are made from soya-based vegetable oils, on environmentally friendly, biodegradable and recyclable materials! Local Islay-made soaps, eco-friendly packaging… what more could you ask for?

So, stop by when you’re in Bowmore! You’ll be sure to pick up some things for yourself and for friends!

Spirited Soaps is also available for purchase in their online shop, located here.

7.3 Peatzeria in Bowmore

Besides the absolutely delightful name (who doesn’t love a pun?), their pizzas are incredible as is their dessert! To give you an idea of what their pizza toppings … my first time at Peatzeria, I was sitting outside on their terrace, enjoying a view of the sea. A delivery man walked by, holding a crate of fresh lobsters, and proceeded to walk into the kitchen. “I like what you got there,” I said to him, in the least creepy, most seafood-excited way. I think he politely looked at me like I was insane.

Besides lobster being on pizza (which I haven’t tried), they have a variety of local seafood favorites – including the one I have tried – scallops and parma ham. If seafood isn’t your thing, there are more traditional pizzas. I’ve tried the black and red, which has incredible black pudding, caramelized red onion chutney, and goats cheese. Hello incredible Scottish flavors!

While they can always give you a box to take away leftovers (they are still delicious the next day), be sure to save some room for dessert. You won’t regret it!

7.4 Lussa Gin (ok, on Jura but still!)

My search for amazing spirits and great stories brought me to Islay’s neighboring island, Jura. Jura is the home to only 220 people, and is a place where red deer outnumber humans 30 to 1. Only a quick 6 minute ferry ride from Port Askaig to Feolin, and suddenly you’re in a completely different world.

You know that I love my remote places, but the drive up to Ardlussa, home of Lussa Gin, was one of the most remote drives I’ve been on. From the ferry, it’s 25 miles along a single track road, with the most stunning views to offer.

The story of Lussa Gin begins with 3 friends – Alicia, Claire, and Georgina. All three were doing other things in life, until one night in 2015 they decided to come together and make gin. Through some trial and error, and with their first 10 litre copper, alembic still named “Jim”, what resulted was a gin crafted with local botanicals. 15 different ones, to be exact. I know you’re curious which ones, so here is a little excerpt from their brochure:

“The flavour of Lussa Gin is led by juniper (1) with a citrus nose from the lemon thyme (2). It has an aromatic depth of flavour with notes of water mint (3), bog myrtle (4) and Scots pine (5), balanced with a savoury kick from the ground elder (6) and sea lettuce (7). Honeysuckle (8) and elderflower (9) add sweetness and finally, rose petals (10) and rosehip (11) give the gin a smoothness and length of finish.”

The remaining 4 are lighter, but nonetheless critical: coriander seed, lemon balm, orris root, lime tree flowers. 15! To keep things local to Jura, each flower and herb are grown, gathered or foraged in Ardlussa or nearby the estate on Jura.

I was happy to have met Alicia and Georgina when I visited Lussa Gin. Even though their distillery tour is currently not operating due to covid-19, you are allowed to visit (only 2 people allowed at a time). Gotta make sure there’s social distance between the humans, little “Jim” and now his big (200 litre) brother, “Hamish”.

One of the things I loved learning about Lussa Gin, is that the gin is distilled, bottled and labeled by hand, by these three women. A strip of tweed also adorns each bottle. What’s the significance? It is the estate tweed for Ardlussa (where the gin is made), but with an extra green stripe to signify the botanicals. Love the attention to detail!

Come and visit Jura and hear the story of Lussa Gin from the ladies themselves. The story telling goes hand in hand with a sample gin tasting.

The gin was so fresh and aromatic. I tasted it with Walters Gregors, a lovely light tonic from Aberdeenshire – Scotland’s first tonic water! This is Lussa’s tonic pairing of choice. If you’re feeling fancy during those summer months, don’t forget lots of ice, and maybe a wedge of frozen lemon and a spring of mint, lemon thyme, lemon balm, or rose petal!

Be sure to stop by their distillery on Jura for a visit. It’s a beautiful drive, with a beautiful gin at the end of it!

Lussa Gin is available to purchase here!

7.5 Other Islay small businesses

Port Ellen – Some other small businesses that I love supporting are:

• Campbell’s SPAR – in Port Ellen. My local shop, always good for a laugh and some curry pasta from the deli;
• The Copper Still Coffee – right at Port Ellen pier, open a few days a week for coffees, quiches, sausage rolls and sweet delights!
• Little Charlotte Cafe – a lovely wee cafe next to the White Hart Beach, for luches, coffees and cakes!
• Balaclava Byre – located just outside of Port Ellen (on your way from the airport), the Balaclava Byre is Port Ellen’s newest restaurant and farm shop! Stop there for your Sunday roasts and local produce;
• The Blue Letter Box – cute wee shop (and post office) in Port Ellen, with Arran ice cream in the summers, and locally made gifts for you to fawn over.

Bowmore:

• Lynn Labels – a delightful coffee shop and diner with toasties, scones, and gifts. The scones in the window will make you do a double take!
• Celtic House – a local bookstore and gift shop, with all the Islay and whisky-related books you can ask for! Don’t forget to check out the cafe upstairs, known by me for their milkshakes!

8. My Islay Whisky Tour (so far)

I wanted to show you that Islay is much more than just its whisky. But when you visit Islay, you can’t overlook their whisky entirely. So here we go!

8.1 Kilchoman Distillery

Of course you can’t visit Islay without visiting a distillery. Let me introduce you to Kilchoman, or “Islay’s Farm Distillery.” Kilchoman Distillery prides themselves as growing most of their own barley on their farmlands and being one of the few distilleries on Scotland to practice traditional floor malting. Kilchoman was established in 2005, and was the first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years!

Be sure to try their 100% Islay whisky, where everything from the barley to the distilling to the warehousing and bottling is 100% completed on Islay!

So far, I’ve managed to do two Kilchoman tastings in person:

• one amazing tasting on the beach in Machir Bay,
• and a tour (plus tasting bottles to go!) in their farm distillery.

Social distanced whisky tasting on the beach, especially with amazing weather, is highly recommended!

Whisky tasting on the beach? SIGN ME UP!

Thanks @Kilchomanwhisky for the fun tasting yesterday. Drinkin’ a Machir Bay in Machir Bay! ☀️🥃🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿😎

Couldn’t have asked for a more gorgeous day to pair with 4 lovely whiskies!

(last photo not mine 😄)@IslayandJura @VisitScotland pic.twitter.com/rbBSi5nz0b

— Lannie Travels (@lannietravels) July 22, 2020

If you have some extra time, you should definitely grab a cullen skink and a toastie from the cafe at Kilchoman. It’s definitely one of my favorite cullen skinks, and not to be missed!

As a little side story, after my first trip to Islay, I brought some tasting packs of the 4 core range Kilchoman whiskies to Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, over in Pitlochry. Iain, a Master Chocolatier, spent an afternoon with me to do a whisky and chocolate pairing. It’s incredible how the flavors of the chocolate bring out the flavors in the whisky!

8.2 Ardbeg Distillery

Ardbeg Distillery is one of my favorite distilleries to visit on Islay. So much so that it was the first stop on my 40th birthday friends tour of Islay! Look at us all enjoying ourselves on the Ardbeg pier with a crackin, peaty dram.

Ardbeg is quite peaty. Technically their minimum peat-smoking level at 55 ppm is one of the highest in the whisky industry. And who doesn’t love a peaty whisky?! The Ardbeg 10 is a classic, and Corryvreckan is probably one of my favorites!

Take a tour to take a peak at their new stills, housed in a new still house! You’ll have to take a tour to take a peek at the views the stills have into the bay.

Andddd, if it’s a sunny day during high season, you have to eat at the ARDstream food truck!

For me, it was a wild mushroom bao – and it was delicious as it sounds. They have both hot options on the griddle, and lighter fare like sandwiches and scones. During the winter, the Old Kiln Cafe is open for lunch inside, and their food is literally exquisite! One of the best distillery meals I’ve ever had!

Pop into the distillery shop, which is quirky and fun in itself! You can purchase different types of tasting packs and some Ardbeg cocktails, to enjoy outside on the picnic tables or at home.

8.3 Bunnahabhain Distillery

Bunnahabhain Distillery is an interesting Islay whisky, in that it mostly produces unpeated spirit! Their style is unpeated, sherry whiskies, which is a delicious combination in my humble opinion. One of my favorite whisky tastings on Islay has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting, often hosted by Islay whisky legend, David Brodie.

In fact, it was another stop on my 40th birthday friends tour around Islay!

The Warehouse 9 tasting will keep you entertained as you learn about the different sherry types of sherry that Bunnahabhain casks used to hold, and how that affects the taste of their whiskies. If you’re lucky, a certain someone may serenade you with a guitar and a song.

8.4 Ardnahoe Distillery

The newest member of the Islay whisky distillery club is Ardnahoe Distillery. Ardnahoe only opened in April 2019. However, before the distillery opened, Ardnahoe had already begun filling casks back in 2018. Now, we wait, as they mature. For those who are eager beavers, casks are available for purchase on their website. Their whiskies will be heavily peated (with roughly the same PPM as average Laphroaig whiskies), with notes of tropical fruit and earthy cereal. Sounds great to me!

Besides distilling their own whiskies at Ardnahoe, they also independently bottle whiskies. Want to go down this rabbit hole with me? That means that they buy spirits from different distilleries and select their own casks for maturation. Some independent bottlers blend together their spirits to make an entirely new whisky. This whisky world is complicated, no?

I didn’t manage a tour the first time, but I had a quick look around their shop and had a stunningly delicious lemon coconut drizzle cake in their beautiful restaurant & cafe. You don’t want to miss the views of the Paps of Jura from the gorgeous terrace either!

My second time at Ardnahoe, I popped by for a whisky and food pairing. Being a ridiculous foodie, and someone who is loving whisky more and more, food and whisky together are my kryptonite. The pairings change, but that day, we had:

• Scarabus (bottled from the same company that owns Ardnahoe) – paired with a blue cheese mouse on oat cakes,
• (a palette cleanser of tomatoes, cucumbers, and dill)
• a smokey Isle of Skye Talisker 8 years old, paired with a venison sausage roll,
• (a palette cleanser of strawberry and melon with basil)
• and Laphroaig 12 years old, matured in a Sherry cask, paired with a chocolate, orange tart.

I absolutely loved this experience! I’m always amazed how the smell and flavor of whisky changes before and after food! Such a complicated spirit.

Even though I already had nibbles during the food and whisky tasting, I needed to sober up before driving home – ahh the downfalls of solo activities. However, the restaurant in Ardnahoe (called the Illicit Still hehe) has incredible food. One lobster garlic noodles for me!

Do you see how whisky isn’t the only reason to visit Islay? But the food too! The food can hold its own!

Parting Thoughts

When you visit Islay, you’re enveloped in this magical blanket of warmth and hospitality. I hope I was able to convey a bit of that in this post along with sharing some ideas on the best things to do in Islay.

I had an absolutely amazing time during my first trip to Islay. It was only 7 days, but it left such an impression on me that I made it my home nine months later!! It’s such a special place – magical even. Everyone was so friendly and lovely to talk to, which continues to this day. The community on Islay welcomed me with open arms, as they will you too!

Not only has Islay enchanted me, but so did neighboring Jura! I’d love to spend more time on Jura.

• To stay or simply to have a meal at the Jura Hotel, famous for their Jura venison and some Lussa Gin ice cream to wrap up the meal.
• To visit the Jura Distillery – their “Jura: The Sound” whisky was the last thing I bought at the Dubai Duty Free airport before lockdown. It was a welcome companion during lockdown days.
• Properly see the island and some wildlife, with Jura Island Tours.
• Find someone to go hiking with, because this wild land needs to be hiked and the remoteness of the island genuinely makes me want to be with someone who knows where they’re going.

Did my determination to photograph all the distilleries extend to Jura? Of course it did.

So as you can see, even though I am not a whisky connoisseur, I’ve had a very fulfilling experience both on my first visit, and now, living there. Islay whisky is world renowned, but hopefully you can see that there’s so much more to the island than just the whisky.

Until next time, hope everyone is staying socially distant and safe. Be well, and find some Islay whisky or Lussa Gin to drink responsibly, friends!

Map for your things to do in Islay

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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