1. Late night arrival into Tel Aviv & Jerusalem

I arrived from Vienna at nearly 1 am into the Tel Aviv Airport.  I was questioned at immigration for being a single traveler on holiday in Israel, which I take it, is not normal.  Since it was Saturday at 1 am when I arrived, the Sabbath already began and my transportation options into Jerusalem were limited.  My airbnb host said there would be some Nesher taxis I could take for about $16 USD.  Imagine my surprise when I couldn’t find one and the only taxis there quoted me about $100 USD.  At a certain point in traveling, and when it’s getting on near 2 am, stop arguing and just make sure they take credit card.  So there I was, in an overpriced taxi van.  I sent a “find your friend” notification of my whereabouts to my friend, just in case.  You really can never be too careful.

Taxi misadventures

The taxi driver asked if I wanted metered fare or a flat fee.  Knowing that flat fees were allegedly illegal, I chose the metered fare amount.  There we were – driving along the highway in near-darkness. My driver pointed out very innocuous things like… a large power plant … or a convent where the nuns don’t speak. None of which, I could see.  I’m watching the meter, and it is creeping up very fast. I now know that my taxi fare will exceed $100. 

We were nearing Jerusalem when all of a sudden, the driver pulls over on the side of the highway. 

I am REALLY glad I gave my friend my location at this point, because there is no telling what is going on…although her being in America, what would that really do?

He asks me for my credit card.  I’m dumbfounded, but clearly not going anywhere.  As I’m reaching for my card, he turns off the meter.  My brain went to sinister places because it was near 2 am. In reality, we hit the flat fee amount on the meter, stopped the meter, and went for the flat fee instead, to save me money.  You could’ve just said something, instead of just pulling over on the side of the highway near 2 am and freaking me out. <y late night misadventures didn’t stop there. My Airbnb host neglected to tell me, that taxis cannot fit on the alley in front of the unit.  The taxi driver proceeded to drop me off about 2 blocks away from my actual apartment, at around 2:30 a.m.  Not pleased.

One final note about the evening and my first impressions. Everyone says Reykjavik’s drinking water tastes like sulfur.  And I agree – it does.  Jerusalem’s tap water, after boiling, tastes way worse.  Way.  Worse.  It’s supposed to be drinkable, but really, it was awful.

2. Breakfast at Aroma

The next morning, parched and completely dehydrated, I set out.  Not much was open on the Sabbath, but I managed to find a croissant and a coffee at a place called Aroma.  It was packed to the brim with people.

Recharged and stomach happy, off I went. 

3. Garden Tomb

First stop was the Garden Tomb, which is allegedly the burial and resurrection site of Jesus.  Nestled in a peaceful garden, there are areas set up around the garden for people to hold sermons or sing hymns. Both of which happened during my short visit. There was a peaceful, calming air in the atmosphere.  You’d never even realize that a large Arab marketplace was just steps outside.

4. Muslim Quarter and the Old City

I spent the afternoon walking around, trying to make my way to the Western Wall.  It’s supposed to be open on Saturday , but you’re not allowed to take pictures.  But I couldn’t access it for the life of me.  There were some parts, I guess leading to Temple Mount, where Muslims told me I couldn’t go. Only Muslims were allowed on Saturdays.  I didn’t think I was that close to the Temple Mount, but needless to say, there was a very large area that I could not access.  Everything to the right of the black line, I could not get to.  But did you know that the majority of the Old City is a big marketplace with winding alleyways and stalls and shophouses?

Regardless, this area is covered by my tour the following day.  After roaming around the Old City for quite some time, I was tired and hungry. 

5. Lunch at Menza

On my walk back home, I passed by Menza, which was also on my list of places open during the Sabbath.  I stopped in for a deliciously fresh salad.

After my wonderful lunch, I went back to my Airbnb for some Netflix and rest before my mad dash to a hot restaurant to try and snag a table.  If you’re in Jerusalem for only one meal, this is the place you need to try! Check out my dinner adventures and review here!

6. Jerusalem & Bethlehem Tour

For the next day, I signed up for a Jerusalem tour, which also covered Bethlehem (in the West Bank, Palestine). The tour operater agreed to drop me off in Bethlehem, albeit with some degree of judgment. I think the actual response was, “But why would you want to [stay in Bethlehem]?” I’m pretty sure my response was: “Why not?”

It never ceases to amaze me where old Roman roads pop up. And they are so well preserved!  No wonder all roads lead to Rome.

I’m not really going to talk much about my tour, because it started raining and was cold and extremely windy.  To come full circle, my “Jerusalem syndrome” began with the extreme weather I experienced on this tour. It resulted in a 2 week long illness, for which I literally have just recovered.  Anyway, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.  And to begin, here I am at the Western Wall (aka Wailing Wall).

Crossing into the Bethlehem, in the West Bank

Parting Thoughts – my 36 hours in Jerusalem

And with that, my tour and my time in Israel was over.  Jerusalem, for me, felt a little too chaotic and a little too loud.  I expected peacefulness and serenity. Given that Jerusalem is the center of three major religions, I imagined the “Holy Land” to be more calming than the city turned out to be. Perhaps the experience is different for those who are more religiously inclined. But it was definitely an experience. 

Day 1 Recap

• 10 AM: coffee and croissant at Aroma | map
• 11 AM: Garden Tomb (free) | map
• 12 PM: Muslim Quarter and the Old city | map
• 3 PM: late lunch at Menza | map
• approx 7:30 PM (1 hour after sunset): dinner at Machneyuda | map

For my Day 2 itinerary, click here.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

“If you only have time for one meal, make a reservation at the restaurant Machneyuda.” 

The Points Guy

I basically had time for one great meal. Obviously, I had to try to eat at the best restaurant in Jerusalem.

Machneyuda opens 1.5 hours after the Sabbath on Saturday. After googling, on February 17, 2018, the end of Sabbath was 6:04 pm.  So by 7:15, I was sitting outside of the restaurant, hoping hoping hoping I would get a table.  I did not make any plan B’s, such was the ferocity of my determination.

Arrival to Machneyuda

It was a 6 minute walk from my Airbnb, which would have been fine, except that it started raining, literally the second that I started walking.  With each step, the downpour got heavier and heavier.  In my head, I considered turning around, giving up, and eating chocolate for dinner.  But thinking of the points guy, I thought this was indeed my one open slot for a great meal in Jerusalem, I trudged onward. 

When the doors finally opened around 7:40 pm, I immediately said I was looking for a table for 1, and explained how the reservation system did not work for reservations for 1.  They said there was no availability and they were fully booked for the evening.  But I was welcome to wait.  I have to apologize for my behavior, because I suppose I could have been nicer.  But the rain hampered my mood.  I was waiting outside not more than 3 minutes when the host said there was a cancellation, and if I did not mind eating with another single traveler who also did not have a reservation, that we could share a table.

ENTER NEW FRIEND

As a solo traveler, this has happened in the past, and I was paired up with another woman.  However, back then (in Rome) the other woman did not speak English.  So we sat at the world’s tiniest table, NOT speaking to each other and NOT looking at each other while eating.  LOL

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

The host and the waiter gave us a round of shots to show their appreciation for us sharing a table.  Me and S already started chatting it up immediately and were both so happy to not have a dinner in silence.  Plus, as The Points Guy accurately described, it felt like a raucous party inside. 

I ordered the tasting menu, for 295 Shekels (which is about $84), and it was the most generous tasting menu I have ever had in my life. And you will definitely see how it is the best restaurant in Jerusalem!

Without further ado…

1st Course

Tuna tartare with “the worlds smallest tomatoes” and cream cheese.

2nd Course

Caviar paste, with olive oil, red onions, and tomatoes.

3rd Course

Yellowtail sashimi in a crispy “Indian” shell. I didn’t describe it as Indian, the waiter did. Not sure why it was characterized that way though…

I bet you’re thinking “oh, these courses look small and manageable.”  All I have to say to you is JUST YOU WAIT.

4th Course

Beef tartare, with mint and almonds

5th Course

Tiny corned beef slider.

6th Course

Polenta, with asparagus, mushrooms, truffle oil and parmesan cheese, served in a jar .

And now, onto the main courses.  Fortune favors those who don’t give up…

7th Course – Mains

Sea bass, mussels, with chick peas and a tahini Moroccan stew.

7th Course at Machneyuda Continues..

From courses 1-7, I had finished everything that you see before you.  And then more arrives and I am at a loss for words.  But if I had to describe it in one word, it would be MEAT.

Seventh course, part B. Lamb, rib eye, sitting on a leak, with mashed potatoes

Seventh course, part C. Beef.. something..and I don’t remember anymore. meat coma.

Are you alive still?  I barely am, reliving this experience through photos.  Are there more courses?  Of course! 

Dessert

I don’t know anymore!!! All I will say is that coconut ice cream in the lower left hand corner was SUPER FROZEN and did not melt, even when I ate it at the very end. Everything was delicious. Too. Delicious. Too. Much. Food.

Somewhere within the courses was another free round of shots, this time with Ouzo or Rakia…

Parting Thoughts on Machneyuda

Even though my dinner buddy did not order the tasting menu, her courses were equally as large, and we both were so full and satisfied by the end.  And I am so glad we met! 

Machneyuda was a fun dining experience to review, and it certainly lived up to the expectation of being the best restaurant in Jerusalem! 

The rest of the restaurant was so lively with loud music, dancing from random people (living their best life), free shots and amazing food.  And sorry for the dark photos!

I’ll end it here, with me and my new friend, S.  I need a nap after this post. 🙂

Looking for something more low key? How about an introduction to Israel’s Street Food, from Anda at Travel for a While.

Restaurant Information

Machneyuda | map
Beit Ya’akov St 10,
Jerusalem, Israel
Closed: Friday dinner, Saturday lunch
Phone: +972 2-533-3442
Reservations – highly recommended!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/