For a little history, the Orkney Islands have been inhabited since prehistoric times by Norsemen and Vikings and were historically part of Norway. However, in 1468, Norwegian King Christian I pledged Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands as marriage dowry to wed the daughter of Scotland’s James III. King Christian never paid the money, and both Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands have been part of the Scottish crown ever since. The flag of the Orkney Islands (adopted in 2007), is blue, yellow, and red, and pays homage to the island’s Scottish and Norwegian heritage. You’ll see it in a few photos below.

Day trip to Orkney Islands with John o’Groats Ferries

If you’re pressed for time like I always am, a day trip, courtesy of John o’Groats Ferries, is a great option. The ferry company operates tours during the year only from May/June to August/September.  Otherwise, the North Sea is too choppy and I’d imagine extremely miserable to suffer through.  The 45-minute journey was already bumpy. The North Sea was absolutely raging the day that I went.

John o’Groats Ferries used to offer several day tours, which depart from both Inverness or John o’Groats. I took the Maxi Day Tour, leaving John o’Groats at 8:45 am and returning after 7 pm. For an adult, the tour costs 79 GBP (roughly $110 USD), as of 20 April 2021. It’s a full day group tour, with English-speaking guides.

There is ample room at the harbor for parking, and after checking with the office, they told me to just go straight to the harbor. There was already a line of people queuing up.

Expert tip, you should stand aside and watch for a little bit before queuing up, to take note where the waves crash over the walls and completely drench the area underneath it. Especially if it’s a windy and choppy day on the sea.

The sea drenched several people before they even got on the ferry. The air temperature that day (mind you, it was in June) was around 37 degrees Fahrenheit (less than 3 degrees Celsius). I can only imagine that the water temperature was frigid also.

Boarding was a simple process, and I don’t believe they actually checked my ticket at all. Once I boarded, the ferry ride was mostly uneventful, except that those who got seasick, got really seasick. I mentioned it before, but the water and thus the journey is really choppy. Also, since the ferry does not go at particularly fast speeds, the rocking of the boat was more pronounced. Unfortunately, there were several passengers who fell ill.

Let your Day Trip to Orkney Islands begin!

We arrived in Burwick, a village and the harbor of the island of South Ronaldsay, in the Orkney Islands. Three different charter buses were waiting for us, to take us onto the various tours you signed up for. Mine was the Maxi Tour, which saw the most sights and was the longest in length.

After piling into our respective buses, we were off. From there, we drove from South Ronaldsay island, to Burray, to Glims Holm, to Lamb Holm, onto mainland Orkney. All of these listed are separate islands, connected by the Churchill Barriers. The Churchill Barriers are man-made causeways, originally built during WWII to protect Scapa Flow. It’s now become the main road that connects South Ronaldsay island to the Mainland, where the airport and capital of Kirkhall are.

1. Kirkwall, capital of the Orkney Islands

Our first stop on the Orkney Island tours is Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney. We had over an hour to walk around and see the sights. It’s a nice town, with St. Magnus Church being its main landmark. There is a small, but interesting, Orkney Museum, across the way from St. Magnus. Neither the church nor the museum take too long to wander through, but it’s worth the stroll.

A brief glimpse into the Orkney Museum:

Take two rights after you exit the Orkney Museum, and there is a charming little secret garden.

If it were a nice day, it’d be the perfect place to sit with a cup of coffee and a chat. But alas. Kirkwall was cold and windy and my focus there was keeping warm.

One thing I want to point out is Cafe Lolz. Although our tour guide recommended a different cafe in town (The Reel, located next to the church), I popped in and didn’t see the pastries I wanted. Literally, out the door of the Reel, and onto a small street called The Strynd, you’ll arrive at Cafe Lolz. For pastry and dessert lovers, it is a must!

If you keep going down the Broad Street, to the north, there is a lovely, artisanal grocery shop at the end, called the Brig Larder. You can buy things like gin-flavored Orkney cheese or a little crab salad for later.  The Maxi tour does return to Kirkwall toward the end of the day, but you’ll need to rush in order to get back to this shop before it closes at 5:30 pm.  I suggest that you try.

Once you return to John o’Groats, the only place left open for dinner is the Seaview Hotel.  And if you just ate there the night before, like I did, you may not want it two nights in a row.  That crab salad that I impulse purchased came in really handy for dinner later that evening.

2. Stromness, home of great explorers and seamen

After Kirkwall, we moved on to Stromness, which is also located on Mainland Orkney.  Stromness was home to many great explorers, including John Rae, an Orcadian doctor and surgeon, who discovered the final section of the Northwest Passage. Although Rae completed several, successful arctic expeditions, he was ultimately known for finding the fate of Captain Sir John Franklin’s arctic expedition, which was said to have ended in death and cannibalism.

Scandal followed Rae’s claim of cannibalism in the Franklin expedition. Subsequently, Rae was shunned by society. From 2004, Orkney and Shetland MPs began introducing motions into Parliament to recognize his contributions in completing the Northwest Passage. In 2013, a statue was unveiled in Stromness, and finally in 2014, a plaque was installed in Westminster Abbey.

Back at the Maxi Tour, Stromness is the lunch stop. There is ample time to grab a bit of food and to walk around the town.  I thoroughly enjoyed walking around Stromness – every house and garden I came across was just so charming and lovely.  For lunch, the guide recommended  the Ferry Inn, a place for a nice fish soup, i.e. Cullen skink.  And on a windy, rainy day, that and a cuppa tea is really all you need.  There is a section of the restaurant that’s for those visiting on the day tour, and they were really quick with the service, as well.  You’ll definitely run into many people from your own tour or the morning’s ferry.  

I hope you’re enjoying this day trip to te Orkney Islands so far. Because I’ll tell you – I definitely am!

3. Mainland Orkney’s prehistoric sites

After lunch, was Skara Brae – a neolithic settlement, older than Stonehenge!  (and also a UNESCO World Heritage site!) The combined ticket to Skara Brae (and Skaill House) is not included in the Maxi Tour costs, but at 9 GBP in the high season (and 7 GBP in the low season), it was worth it.  Skara Brae is generally considered the best preserved Neolithic settlement. At 5000 years old, it’s older than both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids! Tickets to Skaill House are included from April to October. It’s a warm and welcome relief from the cold and howling winds of Skara Brae!

From Skara Brae, there were two quick stops to the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness. In 1999, UNESCO designated both neolithic monuments as World Heritage sites. For the Ring of Brodgar, you are only allowed around the perimeter of the stones. You can walk among the stones at the Standing Stones. That’s how you can distinguish one from the other in my below photos.

Any Outlander fans out there? No day trip to Orkney Islands is complete without a visit to the standing stones. Unfortunately, these standing stones did not transport me back to the 1700s into the arms of a man named Jamie Fraser.

From there, it was back to to Kirkwall and I hauled over to the Brig Larder to pick up my cheeses and crab salad.  A gentle reminder: buy dinner in Kirkwall before heading back to mainland Scotland!

4. The Italian Chapel on Lambholm

The last stop on your day trip to Orkney Islands is the Italian Chapel on Lambholm, a tiny island connected to the Mainland via the Churchill Barriers. Built in the 1940s by Italian POWs and scrap materials, the Italian Chapel is also a story of unrequited love. The chapel designer’s “heart” is inlaid with the tiles on the floor. Spoiler alert, they do not reunite.

The cost to enter the chapel is 3 GBP for adults (free for those under 12).

From the Italian Chapel, we traverse through the islands of Glimps Holm and Burray to finally reach the port at Burwick on South Ronaldsay, where we started our Orkney Tour.

Parting thoughts on my Day Trip to Orkney Islands

By the time we reached the shores of mainland Britain, and John o’Groats, it was near 7:30 pm. As I mentioned previously, only the Seaview Hotel will be open for dinner, so hopefully you have food back at your lodging or you’ve followed my advice for a little dinner to go from Kirkwall! It was an exhausting day, made doubly more exhausting from an “unseasonably cold” summer season up in the north.

But all in all, I really enjoyed my Orkney Island tour. It was a really great day trip and offers a glimpse into a different kinda Scottish life! If you’re in John o’Groats, you can take a day trip to Orkney Islands just like I did!

Looking for additional resources on a trip to Orkney?

• If you want to spend more time on Orkney with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! They offer 5-day Orkney tours from Edinburgh (379£) and 3-day Orkney tours from Inverness (215£)!
• Check out these blogs from my delightful blogging friends:
  • An Orcadian Abroad – tips and tales for Orkney Islands from Clazz, a local Orcadian!
  • AbFab Travels – a motorhome road trip of Orkney with Jane, including a visit to the Highland Park Distillery! It’s not Scotland, without some whisky!

Info for your Orkney Islands Tour

John o’Groats Ferries
From John o’Groats, Daily from 8:45 am
1 May to 30 September 2022
Adults: 79 GBP | $99 USD

From Inverness, (normally) daily from 7:15 am
Currently not offered. Please check with John o’Groats Ferries

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In June 2019, I returned to Scotland after a year and a half away. Previously, the Beast from the East greeted me with a fever and frigidly cold weather. This return to Scotland was much better, but filled with rain. I mean, well, Scotland. To be expected, I suppose. While the purpose of my trip wasn’t to go up to the North, I had a few extra days after my friend left, and I do enjoy random, remote destinations, so the North it was!

1. Road trip along North Coast 500 (NC500)

It was a spur of the moment decision, and I didn’t do much research before hand. I had never heard of the North Coast 500 (or NC500, for short) until I arrived. For those who don’t know, the North Coast 500 is a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland. The Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative launched NC500 in 2015. Parts of the route go alongside the North Highland Way (a 150 mile hiking trail).

Your NC500 road trip begins and ends in Inverness (near the bottom, around the number 69 above), which divides into six regions: Black Isle, Caithness, Easter Ross, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, and Wester Ross. This trip, I spent most of my time in the Caithness region (up north, at number 24 above). But I did drive that full length of the right side from Inverness and back, and it’s a beautiful drive. Of course, you can do your own North Coast itinerary – but we all have to start somewhere. And Caithness was the section for me!

Also, I wish I had discovered the North Coast 500 website prior to going, but alas. There seems to be a lot of information on the area, with nice recommendations. But, no one ever said I was that smart. 🙂

2. How to start your North Coast 500 Itinerary

I rented a car, which is advisable for Scotland. Especially if you want to go anywhere outside the city. And also considering how remote it is outside the cities, it really is a must. Also, the NC500 is a road trip, so perhaps you want a car for that. 🙂

Wick, one of the bigger villages up in the North, is about a 5-7 hour drive from Edinburgh, depending on roadwork, lunch stops, and general driving breaks. It’s a beautiful drive though, mostly traversing wide open Scottish Highlands. But beware – there are lots of windy, one lane roads. You’ll have to be comfortable being behind large lorries until you have time to pass, and passing is always a scary venture.

From Inverness, Wick is about a 2-3 hour drive.

3. My North Coast 500 Itinerary: Where I stayed

By the time I decided to head to the North, I pretty much had a mad dash to book a place to stay. Many places I contacted via email were unavailable. It was last minute and summer season.

I ended up at “The Naze”, which I found on Airbnb. It is a delightful bed and breakfast about 10 minutes drive from John o’Groats and 20 minutes drive from Wick. The Naze offers comfortable rooms and incredible hospitality!

Pasty and her husband, Tony, were the most wonderful hosts. They are a retired couple from the area, who rent out rooms in their house. They enjoy a bit of company and variety in their day. Given how remote this area is, it is really nice to have a chat and a cup of tea at the end of the day.

Let me just say that besides the immense hospitality, the breakfasts at the Naze were just UNREAL. Not shown in the below picture, is coffee, toast, and a croissant. The plate of charcuterie, with salamis and cheeses, was also really delicious.

4. Places and Things along your North Coast 500 Itinerary

The NC500 has gorgeous scenery everywhere you go. It’s picturesque, vast landscapes aren’t the only great things about the North Highlands. There are in fact many things to do and see along the NC500. The below is a list of the places I visited and the things I did.

4.1 John O’Groats

The village of John o’Groats is the most northerly village in Great Britain and the gateway to the Orkney Islands. There was a time between 2005 and 2012 where it was called a “seedy tourist trap” by Lonely Planet and “Scotland’s most dismal town” by Urban Realm. Since then, they village has undergone a transformation. Although it’s not bustling, I wouldn’t be so harsh on it as to call it seedy or dismal. It has its challenges, which I’ll note below. But this is probably the biggest village in the area. Wick (a bigger town) is about 20-30 minutes away.

First thing’s first. John O’Groats does not have a grocery store, but does have a post office (priorities, I guess?). The one day I tried to go to the post office, it was only operating for half a day that day. Low and behold, it was closed. Additionally, while there are places to eat, the only option after 5 pm is the Seaview Hotel.

I cannot emphasize this enough. Either you have food (that you brought with you) or you eat your evening meals at the Seaview Hotel. I went there once during my stay in the North, and while it was definitely hoppin and the place to be, I didn’t find the food too spectacular. But when you’re pressed for options, it’s a decent meal.

I ordered a salmon, as one does in Scotland. I wished the skin would be deliciously and delightfully crunchy, but … it wasn’t.

Besides the Seaview Hotel, a nice cafe is Stacks, which is located near the harbor. Every time I wanted to go, was past 5 pm, and they were already closed. I did manage to go the morning before I left the North. Their cheese scone and chocolate rice krispy treat were AMAZING road trip snacks!!

I didn’t take a photo of the inside of the Stacks itself, but when I went to the restroom, I found this inside, which I GREATLY appreciated. It was taped to the paper towel dispenser. Because let’s get totally real… #MeToo.

Besides the two places I managed to eat, John o’Groats also has a really nice harbor area for a stroll and some fresh air. The ferry to the Orkney Islands departs from the harbor. The above colorful buildings, aka the Inn at John O’groats, is located right at the harbor.

4.2 Duncansby Head

Just outside of John o’Groats, is Duncansby Head. Located at the most northeasterly point of the British mainland, there is a lighthouse and the Stacks. There is a place for you to park your car near the lighthouse, and then you just walk into an open field towards the Stacks. A word to the wise, it is wildly windy and brisk up there, so dress appropriately! Tie your hair up and grab a beanie.

There is a cliffside ravine on the way, where puffins normally are. If you are lucky enough to be there the same day they are! I had no such luck, but I did get to see a variety of other sea birds nesting there.

Finally, the Stacks come into view. It makes the cold, blustery day all worth it.

So, even though the Stacks are obviously rock protruding out from the sea, I’ve never come across sea stacks before. Sea stacks, vertical columns of rock found near the coast, are formed by wind and wave erosion. I thought that little nugget of information was pretty cool!

4.3 Castle of Mey

Further up the coast, you’ll come across the village of Mey, which is home to the Castle of Mey. The castle, which I only know of from Netflix’s The Crown, was purchased in 1952 by Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, after the death of King George VI. When the Queen Mother purchased the castle, it was derelict and falling apart. She spent 3 years renovating it before she moved in, and would stay there every year until her death in 2002.

Nowadays, the Castle of Mey is open to the public from May 1 to September 30. In July and August, King Charles III and Camilla, the Queen Consort, visit the North Highlands and stay at the Castle of Mey for up to 2 weeks. During that time, the castle is closed to visitors as they take up private residence there.

The King and Queen Consort have also opened up Granary Lodge, a luxury B&B, on the premises of the castle. My Airbnb host heard a rumor that when the King was remodeling the B&B, he spent about 2,000 GBP on a single bathtub. So if you’re looking for a bit of luxury in the north, there you go! Fit for a King!

A 11.95 GBP adult admission ticket will grant you access to the castle, grounds, and garden, with a tour of the castle included. (You also have the option of just visiting the grounds and garden for 6.50 GBP). There are no photos allowed inside, but it was a really great tour. The guide told us wonderful stories of the Queen Mother. She seemed to have a great sense of humor and truly loved living and staying at Mey.

Also, a helpful tip. Since I am always concerned about food, I had originally wanted to eat lunch somewhere before I arrived at the castle. I googled and settled on the Castle Arms Hotel in Mey. Ya, they’re not open until dinner time. The Castle of Mey does in fact have a nice visitor center with cafe, and I ended up eating this delicious cheese scone along with a coffee. So, either plan to eat there, or don’t visit on an empty stomach. You probably shouldn’t expect to find food in Mey afterwards, either. Are you beginning to get a sense of the remoteness of the North Highlands?

4.4 Dunnet Head

Keep heading north, and you’ll arrive at Dunnet Head, another landmark point. Dunnet Head is the most northern point in mainland Scotland and the island of Great Britain. Not to be confused with Duncansby Head, which is the most northeasterly point.

Similar to Duncansby Head, many people frequent Dunnet Head for a glimpse of puffins and other sea birds. I’m sure you can guess that luck was not on my side that day, and although I did see lots of birds along the below cliff, none of them were the adorable puffins I was after.

Want to read about when I finally did manage to see puffins? Check out my post, here!

There were some trails leading away from the lighthouse that I wandered onto, which brought me view of Long Loch and the Loch of Easter Head.

When I left Dunnet Bay, along the B855, I suddenly saw two stacks protruding from the water, and a trail that appeared to go down to them. See them down on the map below? Obviously, I had to stop an inspect.

Part of the reasons I love casual road trips is the ability to stop and explore when the mood strikes. I’m really happy I did. Besides the rain, one of the things I remember most vividly about this day, was the gorgeous light green moss that covered the pier.

4.5 Wick

The town of Wick is further south than all of the above locations. And it is probably the biggest town you will encounter in the remoteness of the North Highlands. On the Google Maps below, I pinned two things in Wick – the Lidl supermarket and Harrold Bros Butcher Shop.

I have to be completely honest – I did not do anything else besides drive through Wick. I’m sure there are things to do there, but I just didn’t have time. But Wick is the place to buy groceries and things. I can’t emphasize this enough – you need to stock up on supplies when you take a trip to the North Highlands. The Lidl has most everything you could need. And I mention the butcher shop because, local butcher shops are an institution in Scotland. I discovered the greatness of the local butcher on this trip to Scotland. When in Scotland, I will probably never buy meats at a grocery store again.

As you may know, for now, I am mostly on mission in Afghanistan. Some things, like great meats, can be challenging to get. I stopped by Harrold Bros before I left and bought a variety of sausages, steaks, burgers and bacon to bring back with me. The butcher kindly vacuum sealed everything with frozen packs, and I popped it into my insulated back from Lidl. I was able to come back to Kabul and mildly recreate a Scottish breakfast with my housemates.

5. Other places to see along this NC500 Itinerary

The below are a few places that I did not manage to go to, but could be of interest to you on your North Coast 500 road trip!

• Dunrobin Castle – you’ll pass by on your way to Wick, from Inverness – arguably one of the most gorgeous castles in Scotland!
• Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – if castles are your thing, the be sure to visit (the ruins) Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, the earliest seat of Clan Sinclaire.
• Old Pulteney Distillery – got a hankering for some whisky tastings? Stop by the Old Pulteney Distillery in Wick.

If you’re looking for camping or even wild camping spots, feel free to refer to this NC500 Camping Guide, from my friend and fellow writer, An Orcadian Abroad.

6. Parting Thoughts on my North Coast 500 Itinerary

Now you have a brief introduction to the North Coast 500, which is arguably one of the best Scottish road trips. In my next post, read about my day trip out to the Orkney Islands, from John o’Groats. The NC500 has different sections, and mine mostly covers Caithness. Whatever NC500 route you choose, a few things to remember:

1. Most sections of the NC500 is in fact quite remote, so in addition to large open landscapes and sheep, the next thing you’ll see in abundance are the same tourists everywhere.
2. Food may be hard to find. Some places close before 5 pm, other don’t open until 5 pm. It’d be best if you went grocery and snack shopping in Wick on your way into the north.
3. Remember that chances are, it’s cold and windy, so bundle up. Warmth is more critical than fashion.
4. Some areas do not have great cell / mobile signal, so consider preparing for your NC500 road trip with a physical Ordnance Survey map of Northern Scotland (includes Orkney and Shetland!).

And last but not least, I’ll leave you with the motto of the Order of the Thistle, which is Scotland’s highest chivalric order:

Wha daur meddle wi’ me.

No one provokes me with impunity. (or) No one can harm me unpunished.

This post nor blogger promotes violence, just merely sharing the national motto of Scotland.

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Starting in Inverness? How about a day trip or two before you head out.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/