The story begins with Italian developers in the late 1980s.  The Sheraton Resort was to be the crown jewel of the Cook Islands tourism industry and the island’s first 5-star resort.  With the resort almost 80% complete, construction stopped abruptly following allegations of mafia involvement and money laundering in Italy.  The Cook Islands government was left with $120 million in debt and almost bankrupted.  From talking to local Cook Islanders, this large debt would shape the trend of Cook Islanders immigrating to New Zealand that continues to this day.

From then, other people and companies tried developing and completing the property.  However, something always prevented the completion.  According to the rumor mill, old tribal rivalries led to the land being cursed and recently, re-cursed.  In this day and age, who knows whether curses are really true or not?

Today, the structure stands on a large, open property.  Instead of hotel guests, you’ll find company in a group of cows and goats roaming freely across the land.  Some locals do actually live on the property.  We understand that they struck a deal with the local government to stay there for free, in return for maintaining the lawn and the property.

I went with my tour friends, E and J. When we pulled up in E’s car, a woman greeted us and said it was 5 NZD to visit.  E and J were all about to prepare 5 NZD each, when I stuck out my arm to stop them. I didn’t say a word and handed the woman 5 NZD.  She took the money and then pointed where we could park the car.

E and J were a little stunned, but I later explained that this was not a sanctioned tourist site. It’s not like we are paying an advertised, public admission fee, which taxes on the fees would later be paid back to the Cook Islands government.  No no.  This was a woman, living in an abandoned property, and as part of her agreement to maintain the property, she can charge admission fees for whatever she wants.  I may be simplifying the scenario, but that was how I read it.  So remember, don’t always be so quick to take out your money!

In addition to the abandoned buildings, there is also what looks like a well-groomed BMX track.

Depending on how much you like poking through old, abandoned things, you could probably stay 20-30 minutes here, but probably not more than an hour.  If you’re in the area, and want to see something truly unique to the South Pacific, the Sheraton Cook Islands is for you.  (Incidentally, if you do the cross-island hike from N to S, you should cross through this toward the end…) 

However, if you want your image of Rarotonga to be an untainted, gorgeous paradise, then take a pass on this one.

Background information provided by:  The Guardian Newspaper

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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Most tours and dinners include hotel pickup/drop off, which is really convenient.  If they don’t pick up on time, the island is a small circle.  Trust that they’ll be along shortly, because they always are.  (same with the bus!)  Everything is on island time.  So relax, sit back, and enjoy the awesome things to do and eat in Raro.

But first, if you haven’t read my post on Cook Islands food, I suggest you start there!

1. Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes

For my first full day in Rarotonga, I scheduled a BBQ Lunch and Lagoon Cruise with Captain Tama.  It was NZ$79 | $52 USD, which included snorkeling, lunch, a coconut demonstration and sarong show.  The ship was crewed and the tour hosted by a few, young Cook Islander men.  Good humored and full of fun, they took us out from Muri Beach to a beautiful area of blue seas for some snorkeling.  I went in for a bit, but it was a bit cloudy under the water from the current, and man… that current was insane!

Watch this video on YouTube.

After snorkeling, we headed back towards the Muri area, and docked off of an uninhabited island across from Muri. Captain Tama (and maybe another tour company) set up a small dining area with facilities on this island for use during the day.  The crew were busily getting lunch prepared, and were grilling fresh fish and bananas.

From the paw paw (papaya) up top and clockwise, grilled banana and grilled onions, fresh grilled mahi mahi, bread, cole slaw, potato salad, and a sliver of a coconut slice.

I won’t give much else away, but here are a few photos from their coconut demonstration.  No photos of the sarong show.  Why?  I was selected as the model for an introduction to how to tie sarongs or pareos.  shrug..

Really fun time with the crew that took us out that day.  It’s a warm welcome to the Cook Islands and an introduction to their fun loving personalities.

2. Progressive Dinner

After a few hours of rest and relaxation on my patio lounge chair, in the evening, I set out for what’s known as the Progressive Dinner (NZ$99 | $66 USD).  This is a dinner tour, where each of the three courses are eaten at a different family’s house.  Each course came with lots of stories and an introduction to their family and land.

It was a really busy night for the Progressive Dinner… there were probably close to 40 people there.  I guess that’s a bit unusual, and it’s normally a much smaller group, which is how I imagined it. 

At dinner, I met a nice Australian couple on their honeymoon, and an interesting retired New Zealander, Polly.  Polly has been coming to Raro since the mid-1990s, and lives for a few weeks or months there every year.  She’s been coming to the Progressive Dinners for at least the last 5+ years when she’s in Rarotonga, and she keeps coming for the great food and lovely people that host and take part in it.  I wish I talked to her more, because I think she must have great stories to tell.

Without further ado… the progressive dinner.

2.1 First Course

2.2 Second Course

What do you recognize on my plate from my earlier post, introducing food in the Cook Islands?

iSpy list:

• paw paw
• poke
• umu
• rukau

One of the best things to do in Rarotonga, in my book? Eat with friendly locals and hear their stories about life in the Cook Islands.

2.3 Third Course

Parting thoughts on the best things to do in Rarotonga

For my first full day on Rarotonga, not bad, right?  Captain Tama and the Progressive Dinner were both GREAT introductions to the warm and fun-loving spirit of the Cook Islanders. Definitely, if you’re looking for two of the best things to do in Rarotonga, consider Captain Tama’s Cruise and the Progressive Dinner. You won’t regret it!

– Useful Information –

• Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes – NZ$79 | $52 USD, daily, 11 – 3 pm.  Pick up, drop off, and lunch included
• Progressive Dinner – NZ$99 | $66 USD, Mondays and Thursdays, 5 – 9:30 pm.  Pick up and drop off included

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1.Staples of Cook Islands’ Food

1.1 Coconut

Let me begin by saying that the coconut is one of the most central aspects of Cook Islander cuisine, taking form in fresh coconut cream and milk, grated coconut, the “coconut marshmallow,” coconut juice from fresh nu, and of course, the coconut meat itself, usually eaten in sliced wedges.

1.2 Ika Mata

Raw fish and chopped vegetables in coconut cream and lime juice. Not to be confused with Hawaiian poke or Cook Islander poke…(and since I brought that up)

1.3 Cook Island poke

A looser, mochi-type tapioca concoction, usually made with local bananas and topped with fresh, grated coconut.  Not considered a dessert, and is served with the main dishes.  It also has nothing to do with raw fish, despite what you may have thought because of its name.  (Apologies for the awful photo of the poke – the lighting was really bad.  Plus, it’s not that photogenic of a dish anyway, usually a gelatinous blob in varying colors.  This one in purple, made from taro)

1.4 Paw paw

Papaya fruit (and/or local, firm bananas) with grated coconut in a coconut cream base.

1.5 Cassava (or tapioca) and arrowroot

Although cassava and arrowroot are different plants, they are similar in consistency. Both are of a starchy consistency, commonly used as thickeners. In Cook Islander cuisine, it’s mixed with local ingredients, in a variety of dishes, including the famous Coconut Delight.  From what I can gather, it is a mixture of grated coconut and cassava, which is then pan fried for crispiness.  The cassava gives it a chewiness, similar to mochi. Served at the Tuakata Cafe, a short walk from the bus terminal in town and down the street from the Office of the Prime Minister.

1.6 Umu

Traditional roasted chicken or pork, made by digging a hole and burying the food in an underground oven.

1.7 Rukau

Rukau, or “Cook island spinach”, is actually young taro leaves. They’re typically boiled and cooked in a cream sauce. The running joke that guides love to tell is …

Rukau has a lot of iron and helps men put lead in their pencils… if they have someone to write to.

Unlike other tourist or foodie destinations, there isn’t one specific restaurant that is known for their ika mata, paw paw, or umu.  That’s not quite how life works in the Cook Islands.  Instead, most tours include a traditional lunch, with ika mata, grilled fish, probably some poke, likely some umu, and a variety of coconuts and fruits.  All of the food I had on various tours and at dinner shows were all high quality and extremely fresh. So don’t worry! You’ll have amazing food, pretty much anywhere!

2. Places to Eat

If you have some spare meals in between your tours, here are a few places I would highly recommend to eat at.

2.1 The Muri Night Market

The Muri Night Market, is held…most* nights. (Sun, Tues, Wed, Thu). It starts around 5 pm, and be sure to get there early as vendors will stop once all their food is sold.  One of the famous stalls sells banoffee pie, which sadly was too aggressively large sized for me to try, being already full from umu and heavy coconut creams.  Other stalls have local Cook Islander fare… umu, coconut cream curries, fresh juices and noodles.  It’s a must-visit, and if you have time, go back and try other stalls!

Umu plate at the Muri Night Market

2.2 The Moorings Fish Cafe

Benefits of a small island is that peoples’ recommendations for the best food is often the same places!  So many people recommended the Moorings Fish Cafe! It is a local and tourist favorite.  The restaurant is situated a few minutes from Muri lagoon, with lots of outdoor seating and smiles to go around. 

The Moorings serve fish sandwiches, salads and legendary smoothies.  For me, I visited twice and first had the ahi tuna sandwich, and then their more famous breaded mahi mahi sandwich.  Their menu can be found here: here … and OMG – THE CIABATTA BREAD.  THE SUPER FRESH FISH.

2.3 Trader Jack’s

Another both local and tourist favorite is Trader Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Avarua, Trader Jacks is great for a relaxing drink by the sea, followed by an amazing seafood dinner.  A nice sit-down restaurant to enjoy with friends! Don’t trust the picture to do it justice – it’s amazing!

2.4 Tuakata Cafe

I’ve already briefly touched on the Tuakata Cafe, with their famous coconut delight.  I went there a few different times, having felt so welcomed by them each time.  Besides the coconut delight and, of course some fresh nu, I had an acai smoothie bowl one morning, and an ika mata for lunch a few days later.  Don’t forget the coconut delight!!  They’re open on Sunday, which is super rare on Raro!  (And here are the pictures again, because you can never have too many photos of food)

2.5 Cook Islands Coffee Company

For your morning cup of joe fix, might I suggest Cook Islands Coffee Company.  Located on the East side of ring road (you can find it with an orange traffic cone that says COFFEE with an arrow), it is only open during morning hours (7:30 to 10:30).  On M,W,F from 7:30 am, you may be lucky enough to try one of their famous croissants, made by the proprietor’s son.  I heard they were amazing, but beware!  They sell out quick!

Parting thoughts on Cook Islands Food

I truly believe you can’t have a bad meal on Rarotonga.  It’s possible to have a mediocre meal. However, locals prepare each meal such care and respect for the food.  Each ingredient is the freshest it could be.  Just because I’m not listing a ton of restaurants, it doesn’t mean there isn’t a food scene on Rarotonga.  It just means that I had limited free meals, and the tours I took, fed me very well.  The food in Rarotonga is amazing and I hope you’ve come to see that too!

And now that you’ve made it to the bottom of a drool-worthy post, I will reward you with a “standard” Cook Islands photo:

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If you love Cook Islands food, maybe you’re interested in having a traditional Cook Islands meal, with each course at a different local’s house! Hear stories, learn about their families and land, and eat amazing food on the Progressive Dinner Tour. For more info and an exclusive discount code, click here!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/