I think it is pronounced MON-a-HYLE MORE.

This all took place last summer, when I holidayed in Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park. If you’re picturing gorgeous blue lochs, luscious green hills, beautifully tusselled hilly coos – you are not wrong!

From where I started in Aberfoyle (the Gateway to Loch Lomond & the Trossachs), it was a a 55 minute drive on winding roads through small hamlets, large hills, and alongside several stunning lochs. Towards the end of the trip, it switched to single track roads. It was so remote and it looked so lush, that I pulled over the side of the road to take a moment and enjoy the scenery. There were zero humans around, so no risks. The above photos were from my drive.

Getting there, I used a combination of Google Maps and the GPS in my rental car. Both were wrong and stopped short of the actual destination. However, I did manage to see some roadside signs on the way that kept me hopeful. Plus, as I said, towards the end, it was just a single lane road. I had faith that if I hadn’t gone past it yet, I would reach it in due time. And I did.

Learn from my mistakes and endeavor to plan better than I do – get a tangible Ordnance Survey map of the Trossachs before setting out!

Monachyle Mhor: Restaurant & Hotel

Monachyle Mhor (Gaelic for the “great narrowing of the wetlands”) is a combination boutique hotel and upscale restaurant created by Scottish chef, Tom Lewis. What makes Monachyle Mhor special, besides it obviously being a pink house, is their commitment to locally sourced and farmed foods. Most meat and vegetables are raised and grown on their farm. When venison and pigeon are on the menu, they’re directly from the grounds, too. Seafood comes from a little farther, up in Scrabster in the Northern Highlands. Whatever isn’t used at the restaurant gets used in pies at Lewis’ Mhor Bread bakery in nearby Callander.

The interior design of Monachyle Mhor is modern, yet classic.

1. Amuse Bouche in the Bar

After arriving, the hostess escorted me to the bar as they prepared my table. Just as I was admiring the lush wood panels in the bar, a tray containing three items appeared before me. My amuse bouche.

From left to right,

• a black pudding bonbon,
• aubergine (eggplant) caviar,
• haddock ceviche.

In hindsight, I wish I sought more clarity on the aubergine caviar to understand exactly what that meant. But in the absence of exact details, let’s just say all three were absolutely delicious – especially the ceviche!

2. Bread and a second Amuse Bouche

The wait staff asked if I made reservations. Since they’re not required, I did not.

Expert tip, if you make reservations, you’ll get seated in a gorgeous conservatory with huge windows (you see the lush windows in the pink photo above). But since their conservatory was full, I was seated in this room. All. By. My. Self. (cue Bridget Jones’ sad rendition of a Celine Dion classic)

Watch this video on YouTube.

Just as Celine’s song finished in my head, and Akon’s Lonely, began, out came some bread and my second amuse bouche. The bread selection comprised of a sourdough and some brown bread. As if homemade bread and butter aren’t the best things ever, add some expertly fried asparagus tempura with pea puree!

3. Starter: Monachyle venison

Monachyle venison, with radish from Comrie. Drizzled in a sauce made from Glengoyne 12 years old single malt scotch whisky, topped with haggis crumbs.

How’s that for a starter?

4. Palate cleanser: Celeriac soup

Just a little celeraic soup with pine nut dressing to cleanse my palate and prepare me for my main course.

5. Main: Tamworth pork

For my main dish, a mouth watering, expertly cooked Tamworth pork from Monachyle Mhor. Served on a bed of kimchi and Arran Victory potatoes, and topped with a sprinkling of black sesames.

Absolutely loved the Asian flair!

6. Dessert: Chocolate pavé

After finishing my main, a separate dessert menu appeared, with choices like:

• Buttermilk panna cotta, Scottish strawberry, lychee sorbet
• Chocolate pavé, hazelnut brittle, coffee gelato
• Frozen cheesecake parfait, raspberry gel, garden rhubarb, oat praline
• Spiced apple frangipane, flapjack, clotted ice cream
• A selection of British Isles farm cheese, homemade oatcakes and chutney

Ok, with the photo and header above, you obviously know what I selected. But reading all the choices, could you blame me? Say chocolate and I’m already at attention. Add the word hazelnut and I obviously wouldn’t choose anything else. Top it off with coffee gelato? This is obviously a dessert made in heaven, and especially for me!

7. Petit fours

To pair with my shot of esprseso, some petit fours:

• gingerbread marshmallow,
• peppermint ganache,
• Scottish tablet (i.e. fudge)

Parting Thoughts on Monachyle Mhor: Tasting Menu

At 65£ (approximately $80 USD), the dinner tasting menu at Monachyle Mhor was such a fantastic treat!

Given the remoteness of the Scottish Highlands and the slight weariness of too much pub food, Monachyle Mhor’s delightful tasting menu was the culinary highlight of my trip!

Don’t make the same mistake as me – make reservations so you can dine in that delightful, sunset basked conservatory!

Monachyle Mhor Restaurant Information

Monachyle Mhor | map
Hotel Bookings
Balquhidder
Lochearnhead
Perthshire, Scotland
FK19 8PQ
Phone: +44 0187 738 4622
Call to make reservations – highly recommended, if you want to sit in the gorgeous conservatory

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

For clarification, we were allowed one outdoor exercise per day, and Loch Ard is within walking distance. Totally within the covid-guidelines set forth for Scotland at the time.

1. Who is Rob Roy MacGregor?

Rob Roy MacGregor (1671 – 1743) was a Scottish outlaw, turned folk hero, who fought in the Jacobite risings of 1689 and 1715. Although he is generally considered to be the Robin Hood of Scotland, his story was heavily romanticized by various Scottish writers, including Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe.

Side story: when I told one of my friends about Rob Roy, the outlaw, her actual response was: “oooh, outlaw. That makes it sound so sexy.” So behold – historical images and depictions of sexy Rob.

Between 1711 – 1712, over a dispute about money and cattle, the Duke of Montrose seized MacGregor’s family land and evicted the family. Rob Roy in turn sought revenge through a combination of banditry, theft and “cattle rustling” (the theft of said cattle). Rob Roy’s participation in the 1715 Jacobite rising added the charge of treason on top of his banditry. It is during this time, where he was on the run and hid out in a variety of places in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs area.

2. The Hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave

During the time of covid-19, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs are exactly where I am hiding. So in a way, old Rob and I have that in common. But I am staying in a delightful cottage, whereas he went into hiding in a series of caves. The more famous Rob Roy Cave is in Inversnaid, on the banks of Loch Lomond. Nowadays (according to google research), there is both a sign post there and a marker on the cave itself. If I were an outlaw, I don’t know that I would appreciate such blatant markers. But, this is not the cave in which we hunted for.

Hidden along the banks of Loch Ard is another alleged Rob Roy’s Cave. Of course, if one were an outlaw, one would presume that there would be several hiding places. And since this cave has no signposts or markers, this was the one we chose for our weekend adventure. Well, also because this is the one within walking distance.

3. So, did we find the elusive cave?

Our hike mostly followed the red dots in the big map. Although, we did do a slight detour to the remains of Duke Murdoch’s Castle. Spoiler alert, the remains of the castle are basically just rocks. No need to detour like we did.

Closer look of Rob Roy’s Cave on a map. The little black dot right underneath the “v” in Cave is basically where we were (as compared to the coordinates on the Google Map below). North is up on this one.

So, did we find the cave?

I’ll let you decide for yourself from the photos.

Overall, it was very difficult to find… to the point where we honestly weren’t sure. I mean, if you were a rebel outlaw, you wouldn’t want to stay in a place so obvious. But then again, inside all of those nooks and crannies (i.e. potential caves), none of them looked big enough where you could do more than sit. Which begs the following questions:

• Did Rob Roy sleep sitting up?
• Did he not need to stretch his legs?
• Or when he was in hiding, was he literally in a crouching position the whole time (so that he was at the ready to sprint into action at a moment’s notice)?

If the above photos were indeed his cave, he would have had a lovely view looking out to the banks of Loch Ard.

4. Conclusion to this great caper

So in the end, whether we found the actual location of one of Rob Roy’s Cave will be up to the discretion of the reader. I am personally not convinced. My primary reasoning being: if I were hiding out in a cave, I would want to be able to lay down and sleep in said cave. My friend, on the other hand, seems to think that the rocks may have shifted over time. Perhaps at one point, a rebel outlaw may have been able to sleep there.

Also, as previously noted, his more famous cave is located on the banks of Loch Lomond and is well marked with sign posts. But keeping in line with my blog’s theme of writing about the more obscure places and things, let’s leave things on a positive note and say that maybe we found his obscure cave, and lived to tell the tale.

If you’re in the neighborhood, the Loch Ard trail is a wonderful path and great for a weekend hike. To be honest, it’s one of my favourite walks in Aberfoyle. It’s not a challenging hike, but has great views of the loch and is set in the beautiful Queen Elizabeth Forest Park.

Download the AllTrails app

Get ready for your Rob Roy Adventure

• If you’re planning to stay in Aberfoyle as a base for your Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park adventures, here are some local options, all within a short walk from Loch Ard:
  • Rob Roy Hotel – stay on theme of this Rob Roy Adventure at the Rob Roy Hotel – 1 mile outside of Aberfoyle – average rates 95 GBP per night;
  • The Forth Inn – a very dog friendly local pub, with rooms – average rates 90 GBP per night;
  • or the Creag Mhor Self Catering Apartment – 2 bedrooms, great for families – approximately 120 GBP per night.
• Are you traveling from London for your Rob Roy cave (or Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park) adventure? Take the Caledonian Sleeper, the luxury overnight train to Scotland departing from London Euston station and arrive at dawn in Stirling. Connect to Aberfoyle via the X10A bus, which takes only 40 minutes from Stirling.
• When I’m walking or hiking, my go-to is either the AllTrails app on my phone, or an Ordnance Survey map. As someone who missed a career as a cartographer, I do love a physical map!
• Proper walking / hiking shoes essential for Scotland’s outdoor adventures.
  • This walk is not strenuous and, if the ground is dry is fine for AllBirds Wool Runner Mizzles or similar casual trainers/shoes.
  • Otherwise, Merrell’s Waterproof Hiking Boots (UK) / (US) are my absolute go-to for Scotland’s plentiful trails and outdoor hikes. Being prepared for the weather and terrain is a must!

Want to hunt for Rob Roy’s Cave too? Pin it for later!

For my next post, a promised foodie and cocktail pairing, inspired by this rebel outlaw!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. History of the Battle

The battle was fought between British soldiers (under the Duke of Cumberland, and loyal to King George II), and the Jacobite (Scottish) army. Leading up to the battle, Bonnie Prince Charlie (exiled Prince Charles Stuart, and claimant to the British Throne) raised an army of Scottish Jacobites to win back the British throne from King George II.

16 April 1746.

On that fateful day, in less than one hour, 1,600 men were killed. Of the slain, 1,500 were Jacobite soldiers. (Although sources differ on the exact number of soldiers killed during the battle, it ranges from 1,500 – 2,000 with the vast majority being Jacobite soldiers.)

Learn about Highlander culture

In the days that followed, not only was the battle devastating and brutal, the Jacobite defeat resulted in a loss of the highlander way of life. There have been many studies about this, and I won’t pretend that I’m an expert. But I do know this – much of the highlander culture was suppressed. As a simple example, their clothes (the highland dress, i.e. kilt) were declared illegal by Parliament, tartans were banned (but allowed in certain military situations).

The Bonnie Prince Charlie – Charles Stuart

2. Culloden Battlefield Museum

There is a visitor centre and museum built near the site of the battle. The museum is extremely informative and well curated. I’d definitely rank it as one of the best museums I’ve ever been to. With interactive and interesting exhibits, the museum did an amazing job sharing the history leading up to the battle. There is also a large section at the end full of artifacts collected from the battlefield – including rifles, bullets, as well as other things left behind from those who perished.

The photo shows the 20-foot memorial cairn at Culloden, built in 1881. The plaque reads:

The Battle of Culloden was fought on this moor 16th April, 1746. The graves of the Gallant Highlanders who fought for Scotland and Prince Charlie are marked by the names of their clans.

3. The Battlefield Grounds of Culloden Moor

After the museum, you are able to walk along a path in the grass to go through the area of the Culloden Battlefield. Walking along the battlefield itself, you can follow the battle lines on foot, denoted by red and blue flags. Red flags signify Loyalist English battle lines, and blue flags signify Jacobite battle lines.

The above photo is of the Leanach Cottage, which is located on the Culloden Battlefield. Although the date of construction is unknown, it’s believed to have been built in the early 18th century. That means it was actually standing during the battle. Maps from the mid-18th century show several other buildings and structures in this once-densely populated area. Inhabited until 1912, Leanach Cottage is one of the last remaining single-story thatched buildings. In 2019, Leanach Cottage was reopened to visitors.

Throughout the grounds, you’ll find clan markers to commemorate the clans that fought in the battle. Due to the popularity from Outlander fans, the National Trust has had to cordon off the patch of grass near the Clan Fraser marker. Let’s all be respectful of the memorials, is all I ask.

4. Parting Thoughts on my visit to Culloden Battlefield

The Culloden Battlefield is a must-visit, for anyone with interests in history or Highlander culture. It is a somber place but worth the visit to pay your respect to brave clansmen who fought for their country and their prince. The museum is extremely well curated with original artifacts and creative in their use of interactive media.

For history buffs and Outlander fans alike, you simply must visit Culloden Battlefield to learn more about the battle so important to Highlander culture, as well as Jamie and Claire’s story. And if your only connection to Culloden Moor is learning about it on Outlander, then, learn about the real history in person. No guarantees, but it will move you.

5. Information & FAQ to Visit Culloden Battlefield

An easy stop on any road trip in the Scottish Highlands, along the NC500, or on your way up to Orkney Islands! I would highly recommend you to set aside some time to visit Culloden Battlefield. Plus, its convenient location makes it easy to visit Culloden from Inverness. Experience Culloden, and travel back in time to defend the highland way of life.

How do I get to Inverness?

• 3 hours drive / 4 hours ScotRail train from Edinburgh;
• Fly to Inverness with or direct flights from London (Heathrow, Luton or Gatwick), Manchester, Birmingham, Dublin or Amsterdam;
• Or, if you’re coming from London, consider taking the Caledonian Sleeper. Depart in the evening from London Euston, wake up to Highland views over breakfast and arrive fresh in the morning in Inverness! Take a look at my review if you’re curious about the journey!

How do I get from Inverness to Culloden Battlefield?

• 30-45 minute Bus 27 from Inverness City
• Located only 30 minutes (by car) from Loch Ness

What are Culloden Battlefield hours of operation?

• The Battlefield is open 24 hours
• Visitor Center hours: Wednesday – Sunday, 10:00 to 16:00
  (Closed Monday-Tuesday)
• Adult ticket price: 11 GBP ($13 USD)
• National Trust members visit free!

Do you need to book in advance to visit Culloden Battlefield?

• No, pre-booking is no longer required at Culloden Battlefield.

Can you visit Culloden Battlefield for free?

• If you would like to walk around Culloden Battlefield, without visiting the Visitor Center, you may do so for free. Entrance tickets are for the visitor center and exhibits only.

How long to visit Culloden Battlefield?

• I would recommend allocating around 2 hours for your Culloden Battlefield visit. That will give you plenty of time to go through the exhibits and walk the battlefield lines.

Can you take photos at the Culloden Battlefield?

• Yes, you can take photos inside the museum and around the site. However, at historical sites like this where many people have perished, I am always remiss to take more photos. It’s a personal choice.

Are there any recommended small-group tours to Culloden?

• Glen Affric, Culloden & Clava Cairns – 1 day tour from Inverness, from 33 GBP / $40 USD;
• Loch Ness cruise, Culloden and a Whisky Distillery – 1 day tour from Inverness, from 67 GBP / $85 USD;
• Experience Culloden as part of the Outlander Trail – a 4-day small group tour from Edinburgh, from 294 GBP / $352 USD.

Should I consider a membership to NTS?

If visiting Scottish historical sites are your thing, consider becoming a member or gifting a membership to the National Trust of Scotland. Individual adult annual rates at 63 GBP ($89 USD).

• Seniors (60+): 55.80 GBP / $79 USD
• Youth (16 – 24): 36 GBP / $52 USD

Members enjoy wonderful benefits including unlimited and free entry to castles, gardens and historical sites. Free or concessionary entry to National Trust sites in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland are also included!

6. Ideas during your time in Inverness

Inverness is known as the capital of the Highlands and is a wonderful base for just exploring the surrounding areas or venturing deeper into the northern highlands. Here are some ideas to consider for your Inverness break:

• Stay in the lap of luxury at the 4-star Kingsmills Hotel for a golf and spa break or the 5-star Ness Walk, which is known as a luxury hotel that doesn’t break the bank;
• Eat at the delicious Mustard Seed, centered on highlighting local produce, and housed in a former church. Be sure to book a table in advance, especially during the high season!
• Grab some incredible street food at Redshank – at the Inverness Marina during the summer, and otherwise at the Victorian Market. Your belly will thank you!
• Don’t miss some incredible day trips from Inverness, including:
  • Jacobite Steam Train and Highlands Tour – explore the highlands and hop on the Hogwarts Express (the famous Jacobite steam train), starting from 139 GBP per person
  • Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle Day Trip – visit one of the most famous castles in Scotland (Eilean Donan) and then off to the magical Isle of Skye, starting from 65 GBP;
  • Loch Ness Cruise and Urquhart Castle – combine a trip to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle with a boat trip on the legendary Loch Ness itself, starting from 44 GBP per person.
• And, on the off chance that you need to break away and do some work on your holiday, the Inverness Impact Hub is a co-working space with meeting rooms, desk space, and strong wifi. I don’t suggest working on your holiday, but if need be, you might as well do it with a view of Inverness Castle!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Planning to Visit Culloden Battlefield?
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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In June 2019, I returned to Scotland after a year and a half away. Previously, the Beast from the East greeted me with a fever and frigidly cold weather. This return to Scotland was much better, but filled with rain. I mean, well, Scotland. To be expected, I suppose. While the purpose of my trip wasn’t to go up to the North, I had a few extra days after my friend left, and I do enjoy random, remote destinations, so the North it was!

1. Road trip along North Coast 500 (NC500)

It was a spur of the moment decision, and I didn’t do much research before hand. I had never heard of the North Coast 500 (or NC500, for short) until I arrived. For those who don’t know, the North Coast 500 is a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland. The Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative launched NC500 in 2015. Parts of the route go alongside the North Highland Way (a 150 mile hiking trail).

Your NC500 road trip begins and ends in Inverness (near the bottom, around the number 69 above), which divides into six regions: Black Isle, Caithness, Easter Ross, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, and Wester Ross. This trip, I spent most of my time in the Caithness region (up north, at number 24 above). But I did drive that full length of the right side from Inverness and back, and it’s a beautiful drive. Of course, you can do your own North Coast itinerary – but we all have to start somewhere. And Caithness was the section for me!

Also, I wish I had discovered the North Coast 500 website prior to going, but alas. There seems to be a lot of information on the area, with nice recommendations. But, no one ever said I was that smart. 🙂

2. How to start your North Coast 500 Itinerary

I rented a car, which is advisable for Scotland. Especially if you want to go anywhere outside the city. And also considering how remote it is outside the cities, it really is a must. Also, the NC500 is a road trip, so perhaps you want a car for that. 🙂

Wick, one of the bigger villages up in the North, is about a 5-7 hour drive from Edinburgh, depending on roadwork, lunch stops, and general driving breaks. It’s a beautiful drive though, mostly traversing wide open Scottish Highlands. But beware – there are lots of windy, one lane roads. You’ll have to be comfortable being behind large lorries until you have time to pass, and passing is always a scary venture.

From Inverness, Wick is about a 2-3 hour drive.

3. My North Coast 500 Itinerary: Where I stayed

By the time I decided to head to the North, I pretty much had a mad dash to book a place to stay. Many places I contacted via email were unavailable. It was last minute and summer season.

I ended up at “The Naze”, which I found on Airbnb. It is a delightful bed and breakfast about 10 minutes drive from John o’Groats and 20 minutes drive from Wick. The Naze offers comfortable rooms and incredible hospitality!

Pasty and her husband, Tony, were the most wonderful hosts. They are a retired couple from the area, who rent out rooms in their house. They enjoy a bit of company and variety in their day. Given how remote this area is, it is really nice to have a chat and a cup of tea at the end of the day.

Let me just say that besides the immense hospitality, the breakfasts at the Naze were just UNREAL. Not shown in the below picture, is coffee, toast, and a croissant. The plate of charcuterie, with salamis and cheeses, was also really delicious.

4. Places and Things along your North Coast 500 Itinerary

The NC500 has gorgeous scenery everywhere you go. It’s picturesque, vast landscapes aren’t the only great things about the North Highlands. There are in fact many things to do and see along the NC500. The below is a list of the places I visited and the things I did.

4.1 John O’Groats

The village of John o’Groats is the most northerly village in Great Britain and the gateway to the Orkney Islands. There was a time between 2005 and 2012 where it was called a “seedy tourist trap” by Lonely Planet and “Scotland’s most dismal town” by Urban Realm. Since then, they village has undergone a transformation. Although it’s not bustling, I wouldn’t be so harsh on it as to call it seedy or dismal. It has its challenges, which I’ll note below. But this is probably the biggest village in the area. Wick (a bigger town) is about 20-30 minutes away.

First thing’s first. John O’Groats does not have a grocery store, but does have a post office (priorities, I guess?). The one day I tried to go to the post office, it was only operating for half a day that day. Low and behold, it was closed. Additionally, while there are places to eat, the only option after 5 pm is the Seaview Hotel.

I cannot emphasize this enough. Either you have food (that you brought with you) or you eat your evening meals at the Seaview Hotel. I went there once during my stay in the North, and while it was definitely hoppin and the place to be, I didn’t find the food too spectacular. But when you’re pressed for options, it’s a decent meal.

I ordered a salmon, as one does in Scotland. I wished the skin would be deliciously and delightfully crunchy, but … it wasn’t.

Besides the Seaview Hotel, a nice cafe is Stacks, which is located near the harbor. Every time I wanted to go, was past 5 pm, and they were already closed. I did manage to go the morning before I left the North. Their cheese scone and chocolate rice krispy treat were AMAZING road trip snacks!!

I didn’t take a photo of the inside of the Stacks itself, but when I went to the restroom, I found this inside, which I GREATLY appreciated. It was taped to the paper towel dispenser. Because let’s get totally real… #MeToo.

Besides the two places I managed to eat, John o’Groats also has a really nice harbor area for a stroll and some fresh air. The ferry to the Orkney Islands departs from the harbor. The above colorful buildings, aka the Inn at John O’groats, is located right at the harbor.

4.2 Duncansby Head

Just outside of John o’Groats, is Duncansby Head. Located at the most northeasterly point of the British mainland, there is a lighthouse and the Stacks. There is a place for you to park your car near the lighthouse, and then you just walk into an open field towards the Stacks. A word to the wise, it is wildly windy and brisk up there, so dress appropriately! Tie your hair up and grab a beanie.

There is a cliffside ravine on the way, where puffins normally are. If you are lucky enough to be there the same day they are! I had no such luck, but I did get to see a variety of other sea birds nesting there.

Finally, the Stacks come into view. It makes the cold, blustery day all worth it.

So, even though the Stacks are obviously rock protruding out from the sea, I’ve never come across sea stacks before. Sea stacks, vertical columns of rock found near the coast, are formed by wind and wave erosion. I thought that little nugget of information was pretty cool!

4.3 Castle of Mey

Further up the coast, you’ll come across the village of Mey, which is home to the Castle of Mey. The castle, which I only know of from Netflix’s The Crown, was purchased in 1952 by Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, after the death of King George VI. When the Queen Mother purchased the castle, it was derelict and falling apart. She spent 3 years renovating it before she moved in, and would stay there every year until her death in 2002.

Nowadays, the Castle of Mey is open to the public from May 1 to September 30. In July and August, King Charles III and Camilla, the Queen Consort, visit the North Highlands and stay at the Castle of Mey for up to 2 weeks. During that time, the castle is closed to visitors as they take up private residence there.

The King and Queen Consort have also opened up Granary Lodge, a luxury B&B, on the premises of the castle. My Airbnb host heard a rumor that when the King was remodeling the B&B, he spent about 2,000 GBP on a single bathtub. So if you’re looking for a bit of luxury in the north, there you go! Fit for a King!

A 11.95 GBP adult admission ticket will grant you access to the castle, grounds, and garden, with a tour of the castle included. (You also have the option of just visiting the grounds and garden for 6.50 GBP). There are no photos allowed inside, but it was a really great tour. The guide told us wonderful stories of the Queen Mother. She seemed to have a great sense of humor and truly loved living and staying at Mey.

Also, a helpful tip. Since I am always concerned about food, I had originally wanted to eat lunch somewhere before I arrived at the castle. I googled and settled on the Castle Arms Hotel in Mey. Ya, they’re not open until dinner time. The Castle of Mey does in fact have a nice visitor center with cafe, and I ended up eating this delicious cheese scone along with a coffee. So, either plan to eat there, or don’t visit on an empty stomach. You probably shouldn’t expect to find food in Mey afterwards, either. Are you beginning to get a sense of the remoteness of the North Highlands?

4.4 Dunnet Head

Keep heading north, and you’ll arrive at Dunnet Head, another landmark point. Dunnet Head is the most northern point in mainland Scotland and the island of Great Britain. Not to be confused with Duncansby Head, which is the most northeasterly point.

Similar to Duncansby Head, many people frequent Dunnet Head for a glimpse of puffins and other sea birds. I’m sure you can guess that luck was not on my side that day, and although I did see lots of birds along the below cliff, none of them were the adorable puffins I was after.

Want to read about when I finally did manage to see puffins? Check out my post, here!

There were some trails leading away from the lighthouse that I wandered onto, which brought me view of Long Loch and the Loch of Easter Head.

When I left Dunnet Bay, along the B855, I suddenly saw two stacks protruding from the water, and a trail that appeared to go down to them. See them down on the map below? Obviously, I had to stop an inspect.

Part of the reasons I love casual road trips is the ability to stop and explore when the mood strikes. I’m really happy I did. Besides the rain, one of the things I remember most vividly about this day, was the gorgeous light green moss that covered the pier.

4.5 Wick

The town of Wick is further south than all of the above locations. And it is probably the biggest town you will encounter in the remoteness of the North Highlands. On the Google Maps below, I pinned two things in Wick – the Lidl supermarket and Harrold Bros Butcher Shop.

I have to be completely honest – I did not do anything else besides drive through Wick. I’m sure there are things to do there, but I just didn’t have time. But Wick is the place to buy groceries and things. I can’t emphasize this enough – you need to stock up on supplies when you take a trip to the North Highlands. The Lidl has most everything you could need. And I mention the butcher shop because, local butcher shops are an institution in Scotland. I discovered the greatness of the local butcher on this trip to Scotland. When in Scotland, I will probably never buy meats at a grocery store again.

As you may know, for now, I am mostly on mission in Afghanistan. Some things, like great meats, can be challenging to get. I stopped by Harrold Bros before I left and bought a variety of sausages, steaks, burgers and bacon to bring back with me. The butcher kindly vacuum sealed everything with frozen packs, and I popped it into my insulated back from Lidl. I was able to come back to Kabul and mildly recreate a Scottish breakfast with my housemates.

5. Other places to see along this NC500 Itinerary

The below are a few places that I did not manage to go to, but could be of interest to you on your North Coast 500 road trip!

• Dunrobin Castle – you’ll pass by on your way to Wick, from Inverness – arguably one of the most gorgeous castles in Scotland!
• Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – if castles are your thing, the be sure to visit (the ruins) Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, the earliest seat of Clan Sinclaire.
• Old Pulteney Distillery – got a hankering for some whisky tastings? Stop by the Old Pulteney Distillery in Wick.

If you’re looking for camping or even wild camping spots, feel free to refer to this NC500 Camping Guide, from my friend and fellow writer, An Orcadian Abroad.

6. Parting Thoughts on my North Coast 500 Itinerary

Now you have a brief introduction to the North Coast 500, which is arguably one of the best Scottish road trips. In my next post, read about my day trip out to the Orkney Islands, from John o’Groats. The NC500 has different sections, and mine mostly covers Caithness. Whatever NC500 route you choose, a few things to remember:

1. Most sections of the NC500 is in fact quite remote, so in addition to large open landscapes and sheep, the next thing you’ll see in abundance are the same tourists everywhere.
2. Food may be hard to find. Some places close before 5 pm, other don’t open until 5 pm. It’d be best if you went grocery and snack shopping in Wick on your way into the north.
3. Remember that chances are, it’s cold and windy, so bundle up. Warmth is more critical than fashion.
4. Some areas do not have great cell / mobile signal, so consider preparing for your NC500 road trip with a physical Ordnance Survey map of Northern Scotland (includes Orkney and Shetland!).

And last but not least, I’ll leave you with the motto of the Order of the Thistle, which is Scotland’s highest chivalric order:

Wha daur meddle wi’ me.

No one provokes me with impunity. (or) No one can harm me unpunished.

This post nor blogger promotes violence, just merely sharing the national motto of Scotland.

Pin it for later

Starting in Inverness? How about a day trip or two before you head out.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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