Here is a little slow travel post on spending a few days on the Isle of Iona.

1. Brief Introduction to the Isle of Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. Iona is a small island, only about 1 mile wide by 3 miles long, and is home to about 130 permanent residents. For visitors, vehicles aren’t allowed onto the island, so there’s an unspoken charm that comes with that. When you arrive to Iona via the short 10 minute ferry from Mull, you’ll be directly in “the village”, Baile Mòr, which is the main settlement. But since it’s the only settlement on Iona, everyone just calls it the village.

Iona has been inhabited since 6000 BC and increased in popularity after St. Columba came to Iona in 563 AD following his exile from Ireland. Saint Columba is known for bringing Christianity to Scotland and subsequently, Iona is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity. Following Columba’s arrival to Iona, he founded the Iona Abbey which still stands as a place of worship to this day. During his lifetime, Columba was known to perform various miracles, such as healing people or expelling evil spirits. I think it’s for this reason people come to Iona, hoping for a miracle, hoping to be healed.

If legends are to be believed, Columba had seen the Loch Ness Monster back in 565, and banished the great “water beast” to the depths of the River Ness.

Many people come to Iona to visit Iona Abbey and bask in the magic and miracles that once imbued St. Columba and his followers. To this day, people still make the pilgrimage to Iona out of hope or desperation seeking some sort of comfort. It was that search for hope and comfort that brought me to Iona the first time.

2. Day trip to Iona vs. a few days on Iona

Since my first visit to Iona, I’ve returned many times and have always stayed a few days each time. Having chatted with many visitors there, so many people feel the pull of Iona and keep returning over the years or even decades. I guess I’m now one of those people.

Unfortunately, due to travel itineraries and schedules, most people only do a day trip over to Iona. If you have time or enjoy slow travel, I would highly recommend considering Iona as a stop versus a day trip, just because most of the magic happens without the day tripping crowds.

During the day, the island heaves with day trippers, crowding into the abbey or filling the puffin tour boats (the puffins nest on nearby Staffa between April to August). Around 4 pm, the queue for the ferry back to Mull extends past the pier and basically into the village. That’s usually when I arrive, when all of the day trippers leave. The late afternoon ferry to Iona on the other hand, in time for hotel check in, barely has a handful of people, if that.

The experience you’d have with a day trip to Iona would be significantly different than if you stayed a few days. With that said, because Iona is small and you’ll go everywhere on foot, you can still have a lovely few hours on Iona. It’s just not the same.

Staying for a few days of slow travel isn’t always feasible, consider a small group tour to Iona, including the Isle of Mull:

• 3-day Mull and Iona trip from Glasgow
• 4-day Mull, Iona and West Highlands from Edinburgh

Or, perhaps looking for a change in your job is a way to fully embrace slow travel. With Jooble, explore remote opportunities for the flexibility to slow your travel down. https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-work-from-home

3. 5 Things to do on Iona

Given that Iona is a small island, there are only a handful of things to do. Most center around the Abbey and St. Columba’s connection with the island. Additionally, since only resident vehicles are allowed on the island, get your walking shoes out – you’ll explore everywhere by foot!

– Stroll through the Iona Nunnery

Between the village and on the way to the Abbey, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, which was founded sometime in the early 1200s. The nunnery remained as one of two Augustinian monasteries for women in Scotland and is still the most complete medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. Following the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and left to ruin.

The Iona Nunnery is a good place for a quiet stroll, possibly accompanied with a freshly fried rhubarb donut from Ailidh Loves Pizza, which is around the corner.

– Take a tour and attend Church Service at the Iona Abbey

A visit to Iona is nothing without taking a tour of the Iona Abbey, a Benedictine abbey, and hearing the story of how the abbey came to be. Entry tickets (10 GBP for adults) to the abbey include an audio guide (or an actual guide at certain times), entry to the museum, and St. Oran’s chapel and the nearby graveyard – the burial place of old Scottish kings. Its a wonderful tour and really interesting to hear about the founding of the abbey to the viking raids, to the changes that have been made to the structure since its inception.

You can attend Sunday service at Iona Abbey (or evening service) even as non-members of the church. There have been a few church services that I’ve attended around the world that have moved me, and the Sunday Service at Iona Abbey was one of them. If you’re having a moment in life, and just need a bit of extra positivity, the church service at Iona Abbey may be exactly what you need. With a friendly hello and “peace be upon you” from your neighbor, it serves only to warm your heart and spirit.

Attending the Cook Islands Christian Church at the other end of the world and Saint Augustine Catholic Church in New Orleans have been special and moving church services that I’ve attended in my life.

Book of Kells connection to Iona

It’s been said that the Book of Kells was written in Iona and transported back to Ireland for safekeeping following a Viking raid on Iona in 806. The Book of Kells (sometimes known as the Book of Columba), a 9th century illustrated manuscript of the Book of Gospels, in Latin, was kept at the Kells Monastery (Ireland) from then until the 1650s when it was sent to Dublin. Since 1661, it’s been housed at Dublin’s Trinity College. Whether the Book of Kells was written and illustrated in Iona isn’t completely known, but some connection between Iona and the Book of Kells is known.

For both religious and non-religious, the visiting the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College in Dublin is an absolute must when in Ireland – the details are exquisite.

Photos courtesy of Trinity College Dublin

– Search for Eternal Youth at the highest point on Iona

Grab your hiking boots, and head up to the highest point on Iona, Dùn Ì (prounounced dun-ee). It’s only a 101 meter (331 feet) scramble up, but from there, you can see the entire island, and maybe even the lighthouse on Tiree on a clear day. You know you’ve made it to the top when you reach the cairn. Be sure to find the Well of Eternal Youth and bathe your face in it. Standing at the cairn and facing north, head down the slope, towards a cleft in the rocks. Eternal youth awaits you!

Note: the entrance to Dun-I is near the pods. If you’re walking (on the one road), you’ll see a sign that says “NOT” the entrance to Dun-I. (love that). The entrance is basically the next gate you encounter. It’s a counterintuitive note, but will make total sense when you are there.

– Find Columba’s tears in Columba’s Bay

Columba’s tears, also known as mermaid tears, are found on the rocky shores from the hike to the south of the island (trail map). Iona green serpentine marble, a light green, translucent little pebble, can be found on the south side of Iona at St. Columba’s Bay or the old Marble Quarry. In the photo below, I think it’s the lightest color pebble. That day, I was just picking up all small green pebbles in order to figure out which one was a tear later.

L: St. Columba’s Bay on Iona
R: A handful of pebbles, the lightest one should be Columba’s tear

Superstitious travelers carry Columba’s tears with them in their pocket, as its said to prevent against drowning.

If you’re lucky enough to find two Columba’s tears, one represents something negative to leave behind (and is thrown into the sea), and the other is for you to take home and remember your new beginning or intended commitment.

– Bask in the sunshine, hide in the rain

• Explore the beaches – Bay at the Back of the Ocean on the west coast and White Beach on the northern tip of Iona are both spectacular and secluded with lush, fine sandy beaches. St. Columba’s Bay in the south is a pebble beach with Columba’s tears hidden among the stones. But give the whole island a wander, there are several beaches that you just stumble upon!
• Iona Golf Course – pick up your scorecard for 1 GBP at the local post office, and then walk 30 minutes to an incredibly remote golf course, maintained by grazing cattle and sheep, with the wild sea as a backdrop. 18 holes with an audience of sheep watching!
• OR, if it’s puffin season (April to August) go on a puffin tour to nearby Staffa! Staffa Tours picks you up directly from the Iona pier and heads over to Fingal’s Cave and the puffin colonies on uninhabited Staffa.

4. Food on Iona

Being a small island, there’s only a handful of places to eat on Iona. It might surprise you that the food is actually phenomenal! I’ll break it down for you:

– Argyll Hotel

Located just off the pier, the Argyll Hotel is a favorite of mine, not only to stay on Iona, but to eat as well! Gorgeously fresh, locally sourced and grown food, with a cozy, warm vibe. The shortcut from the hotel toward the abbey includes a wander by the Argyll Hotel’s garden, which supplies the hotel with locally grown produce. Meals at the Argyll Hotel can be taken in the conservatory, with a beautiful view overlooking Mull and the Sound of Iona.

What is this delicious delight to my left? Pan seared Iona hogget loin, roast garden potatoes, samphire, hogget & wine ragout, rhubarb jus & crispy capers. I mean… absolutely exquisite!

So many incredible chefs began at the Argyll Hotel in Iona – Pam Brunton from Inver, for one, and Carla Lamont from Ninth Wave, another. Both incredible chefs who honor sustainability and locally grown produce in their creativity. And both incredible destination restaurants worth visiting!

– St. Columba’s Hotel

St. Columba’s Hotel is the other hotel and restaurant on Iona that packs an incredible punch! I haven’t stayed here, but I have had a few delicious meals here. When the sun is shining, the picnic tables in the garden are perfect for a relaxing beer! You won’t be able to miss the St. Columba Hotel Gardens on your way to the abbey, which provides locally grown produce to the hotel and restaurant.

Next door is St. Columba’s Larder, a cute little shop with snacks, gifts, teas, coffees and cakes.

– The Rookery Cafe

Next to the Iona Heritage Center (worth a wee wander into!), the Rookery Cafe is a wonderful addition the Iona food scene. It’s a perfect lunch spot for sandwiches and toasties, and delectable dessert treats to enjoy outside in the garden, on its many picnic tables.

The Rookery Cafe is opened during the day, Monday – Saturday. Being an island business, please check their social media for up to date hours and specials.

– Other food options

• Ailidh Loves Pizza: This is a brand new pizza and donut shop that I follow on social media and drool after. Last time I visited, they were only doing donuts (and of course, I got one) but their pizzas and flatbreads (with seafood!) look incredible for next time!
• The Martyr’s Bay – Local cafeteria and diner – your place to get a chippy on Iona.
• Iona Seafood – locally caught and landed crabs, lobsters, and other seafood. if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to order some local seafood to enjoy! pick up, where else? at the pier!
• Iona Craft Shop – this is a super cute craft and gift shop, which also sells coffees and cappuccinos! Pop by and browse the local wares while waiting for your latte.

Other food options across the way in Fionnpfort:

Although the next two are not located on Iona, but rather in Fionnpfort (where you got the ferry to Iona), they get a special mention regardless.

• The Creel Seafood Shack – Regularly voted Best Seafood in Scotland, this little shack is perfect for your black pudding and scallop roll before you board the ferry. Or, your seafood platter on a sunny day. (required to be ordered 24 hours in advance). Don’t forget to add a lush order of chips (fries)!
  • If seafood is your jam, the Creel Seafood Shack makes an appearance on my Best Seafood in Scotland list.

• The Ninth Wave – an exquisite lunch treat from Head Chef Carla Lamont and her husband Johnny, that they deem as “hedonism on a plate.” The Ninth Wave uses seafood caught by Johnny and herbs and produce they grow in their garden. It’s a small dining area, but everyone is served each of the courses at the same time. Carla and Johnny explain the course to the diners in kind of an open forum. It’s casual and relaxed for such an incredible dining experience – one that I hope to revisit again in my coming travels!

5. Parting Thoughts on a slow travel trip to Iona

Iona is truly a special place, and once you’ve been entangled in its magic, you’ll keep coming back. Despite being an extremely small island, the island and its charms tend to have a mesmerizing effect. I’m not sure if you’d get that same feeling during a day trip with other tourists and travelers, but if that’s your entry point into Iona, then far be it for me to deny you that initial feeling!

Just a side note: many people visit Iona as it appears to sit on a ley line. Ley lines are supposed lines that connect multiple prehistoric or ancient sites, often with a certain kind of energy or paranormal phenomena. The ley lines connect Iona with other prehistoric sites in Scotland, including the Callanish Standing Stones on Lewis and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney. Whether you believe or not, these sites are special. But is it the secret source of Iona’s magic? Who knows.

But what I can say is, a slow travel trip to Iona is rejuvenating to one’s soul. Slow down, breathe in the fresh air, laugh and dance in the rain, and eat great food. What else is there in life?

Before I close, I will leave you with an expert tip for your trip to Iona. I make a joke that no matter what, even if it’s sunny and the weather isn’t forecasted to rain, I always get caught in a mass downpour. Don’t worry, the island is small, so you’re never technically that far away from shelter. For me, the sudden downpour always invokes a laughing fit, which is the right kinda attitude for a place like Iona.

If you’re bouncing around Scotland in addition to Iona, I’d definitely recommend some Hunter wellies (or wellington boots for those who want to be a bit more formal), which are waterproof and perfect for sloshing around in the rain. They even have insulated wellies if you normally get cold feet! Trust me, you’ll want to prepare for rainy days in Scotland!

Until next time, dear readers, slow down and look for the magic in life!

6. How to get to Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. To get to Iona from mainland Scotland, you’ll take two ferries with a drive or bus ride in between.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day. Book in advance.
  • Passenger cost: 3.90 GBP (single) / 7.80 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: 14.70 GBP (single) / 29.40 GBP (return)
• Step 3: Drive 1 hour across the Ross of Mull to Fionnpfort or take Bus 96/496 from Craignure to Fionnpfort.
  • (sorry! I tried to get a cost for the bus, but all I could find was that there is an 18 GBP Mull day pass. surely you can buy single tickets from Craignure to Fionnpfort, I just don’t know how much that costs!)
• Step 4: Fionnpfort to Iona ferry, also on CalMac Ferries (10 minute sailing). With multiple sailings per day during high season. This sailing is a turn up and go, so you pay on board.
  • Passenger cost: 1.85 GBP (single) / 3.70 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: -N/A- remember, no cars on the island for tourists!

Fionnpfort is prounounced FINNA-firt

If you’re driving, you will have to leave your car in Fionnpfort, as only resident vehicles are allowed on Iona. You can either pay for parking directly at the pier or, a short walk away (300 meters), there is a free car park. As you drive through Fionnpfort, you’ll see a sign to turn left for a free car park. I’d suggest that instead of the paid parking. It’s about a 7 minute walk to the pier. Since the ferries more or less go back and forth throughout the day, take the extra 7 minutes for free parking.

If you’d like to stay on Iona, in addition to the two hotels (Argyll Hotel and St. Columba’s Hotel) there are also campsites, pods, self catering houses and B&Bs available.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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And while I wouldn’t call this a Madrid Food Guide per say, it definitely goes beyond the normal food experiences and highlights some of the extremely cool places to eat in Madrid. So, without further ado, here are some exquisite Madrid food experiences!

1. The Oldest Restaurant in the World – Sobrino de Botín

Let’s start at the oldest restaurant it the world, shall we? It would be rude not to.

Located near Plaza Mayor, Sobrino de Botín is the longest continuously run restaurant in the world (and Guinness World Records holder for oldest restaurant).  Opened in 1725, Restaurante Botin stayed in the Botin family until 1930, when the González family took over. The original González family endured hard times during the Spanish Civil War, narrowly evading a terrible fate, but they managed to stay open and continue roasting its most famous dish. Over the last 300 years, Botin has only been owned by the Botin and Gonzalez families, which is truly incredible if you think about it! 

Botin is known for their roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado).  The suckling pigs need to be at a minimum weight of 4 kg (8.8 lbs) or be at least 19 days old before it is roasted to perfection. The roast takes only about 2 hours in the same open door 300-year-old wood-fired oven (with the tile hood in the photo) that Botin has used since it opened its doors on day 1 in 1725.

Holm oak firewood is used in the oven for roasting. The acorns of holm oak trees are fed to the pigs which produce Jamón ibérico (Iberian, or Iberico ham). The circle of life of acorn, oak and pigs.

Throughout the last 300 years, Botin has had its fair share of celebrities and admirers. But no one more beloved by Botoin than American-writer and war journalist, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway dined there often and even had his own table at Botin – the most unassuming spot in the whole restaurant. Tucked away in a corner, Hemingway was said to be paranoid about being under enemy surveillance and preferred the unassuming corner. I guess I always thought of Hemingway’s would have been more outspoken, or rambunctious, rather than preferring to be sitting quietly in the corner. But what do I know?

Hemingway loved Botin so much, it features in two of his books: Death in the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises (one of my favorite books!)

In the last scene of the novel:

“We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.“

– Final scene, The Sun Also Rises.

For those super foodies, you can sign up for a 45-minute tour of the restaurant before lunch or dinner that includes a 7-course tasting menu. Guess who did that?

The tour I took (yellow) includes every floor of the building, from the crypt and wine cellar dating back to the 1500s, up to the top floor, a former boarding house. Rumor has it that Spanish artist, Francisco Goya, worked at Botin in the late 1700s as a dishwasher then waiter.

After the tour, I settled in with a couple for the 7-course family style tasting menu. This was fantastic, as we got to try a spread of their most famous dishes! We could also select whether we wanted the famous suckling pig or an equally famous roast lamb. Not surprisingly, we all opted for the suckling pig.

My 7-course family style dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world:

• Cured Manchego cheese
• Iberian ham (jamon iberico) & chicken croquettes
• Roasted red peppers with tuna belly
• House scrambled eggs with morcilla blood sausage & potato
• Segovian mushrooms with ham
• Suckling pig (or roasted lamb)
• Dessert – homemade caramel flan for me!

Oh my goodness, what an incredible meal! So many things stood out – the roasted red peppers with tuna belly was phenomenal. The tuna belly was so incredibly tender, and it went wonderfully with the soft texture of the roasted red peppers. The scrambled eggs with blood sausage and potatoes were simple, but delicious. (but then again, I’m not one to shy away from a blood sausage!). The Segovian mushrooms with ham was an unexpected delight. I’m not sure what Segovian mushrooms are, but they reminded me of a fresh and juicy shiitake mushroom. Loved the flavor mixed with the ham!

And then of course, the star of the show, the suckling pig. We didn’t have a whole suckling pig for ourselves, but we all got a more than generous portion. The skin was so light and crispy, not like the thicker pork belly skin you may be used to. The meat, beyond tender and flavorful! And for dessert, I closed with a homemade caramel custard flan. Jiggly, sweet – perfection!

Botin is absolutely one of the most unique restaurants Madrid, and a must if you are hunting gourmet experiences in Madrid!

2. Oldest Chocolateria in Madrid – Chocolatería San Ginés

Visit the oldest chocolatería in Madrid for a quintessentially normal breakfast snack!  (is that elevenses?) Ok, I wouldn’t consider this breakfast, but it seems that locals do!  Deliciously hot and fried churros and served with a Spanish hot chocolate. If you don’t know what a churro, think of a fried donut, except thin and elongated in shape!

Chocolateria San Gines has been making their churros and chocolate combo at the same location since 1894! Nowadays, Chocolateria San Gines basically owns the whole corner, with different indoor/outdoor seating locations, and an ice cream takeaway window. You can still enjoy your churros and chocolate in the original building, which dates back to 1890, but be prepared to queue up for that! For me, it was a lovely morning, so I opted for outdoor seating.

Churros and chocolate is the normal order (in Spanish: chocolate con 6 churros o 2 porras) and that sets you back 5.50 EUR. For 1 person, I didn’t finish it all. For 2 people, it’s probably perfect! Don’t forget to try dipping your churro in your hot chocolate!

Added benefit – Chocolateria San Gines is open 24-7 / 365 days a year! Since it’s open literally 24-7, you really have no excuse on visiting the oldest chocolateria in Madrid, do you?

3. World’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao

Honestly, who doesn’t love a dinner and a show? This gourmet experience at Corral de la Moreria takes dinner and a show to the next level, pairing a one-Michelin star awarded restaurant with an award-winning Flamenco show.

Photography is only allowed during the first 5 minutes of the show, and although my view for the show was fine, the photos/videos did not turn out. The photos of the show were provided by Corral de la Moreria with permission. Muchas gracias.

What is a tablao?

• A tablao is a place where flamenco shows are performed
• A tablao is also the term used for the platform floor in which a flamenco dancer dances.

– Wikipedia: Tablao

The show costs 47.95 EUR, and there are a number of different tasting menus to select from.  If you have specific food allergies or preferences, don’t worry – Corral de la Moreria offers gluten free and vegan tasting menu options, as well!

• If you want to book a dinner and a show, note that you’ll first pay 47.95 EUR for the show booking, and then after the show, you’ll pay for your meal.
• There is also a show + a drink option, for 49.95 EUR, which includes both.
• It’s a bit confusing, but there is also the option to dine without the show, but that is in the Restaurante Corral de le Moreria, which hosts 4 exclusive tables for dinner. The dinner and show are held at Restaurant Tablao (where the Flamenco stage is). I think it’s the same location, but in separate areas. I couldn’t figure out how to book this option on the booking website, just as an FYI!

Since I am an early bird, I went with the 19:30 pm show, with an 18:30 dinner seating. For the menu, I selected the 5-course tasting menu for 79.95 EUR. The meal is paid separately after the show.

• Cream of Glazed Chestnuts, Marrow of Vegetables, Duck and Chinese Artichokes
• Scallop Carpaccio with Tomato Tartare, Dates and Cold Garlic and Almond Soup with Coconut Milk
• Wild Sea Bass with Creamy Stewed Spring Onions and Smoked Iberian Bacon, accompanied by Grapefruit Emulsion and Fried Capers
• Roast Rack of Lamb Rested in its Caramelised Gravy and a Creamy Ragout of Winter Vegetables
• Caramelised French Toast Made With Fresh Milk and Served with Banana Ice Cream

What a truly wonderful evening at Corral de la Moreria! Each course was delicious with interesting flavor combinations, but not one course stood out as absolutely incredible. For me, the sea bass was probably my favorite, as it was expertly cooked to perfection with a light and crispy skin.

Following the meal, the lights dimmed and we were treated to an incredible flamenco show. If you’ve never watched a flamenco show, there would be one word I would use to describe the performers – powerful. Both the male and female performers were so intense and had a great command of their movement and the accompanying songs. The guitarists and singers accompanying the performers were also integral parts of the magic.

Because of the show, the majority of people who choose the dinner and show option are tourists. Let that guide you as to what type of experience you will be having at Corral de la Moreria. Is it off the beaten path and a hidden gem? No. Many travelers flock to Corral de la Moreria for this flamenco dining experience and it is definitely one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid.

That didn’t hinder my experience, but if you’re one of those Michelin-star hunters, it’s definitely not like any other Michelin-starred restaurants! As the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao, Corral de la Moreria is definitely a one-of-a-kind Michelin-starred dining experience!

– My Experience at RavioXO –

Before I move onto the last exquisite foodie experience in Madrid, I need to set up the story which brought me there.

For those who didn’t follow my social media stories about being snubbed as a solo diner, a little context. I made reservations for famed Madrid-chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO restaurant several weeks before my trip. Chef David has a number of restaurants in Madrid which have multiple Michelin stars and often ranks at the very top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Some might say that he’s arguably, Madrid’s hottest chef.

To set the stage, 9 out of 10 meals, due to circumstances of life and travel, I often dine alone. I am fine with this and aside from a handful of annoying experiences, it’s generally not a big deal.

I made reservations online, and although they did not have the option for 1 person, that often happens due to the booking system. Normally, I just email the restaurant afterward and tell them it’s just me. I did just this. Emailed, not once, not twice, but actually three times before someone actually acknowledged me, the day before my lunch.

In that first acknowledgement, they told me to email my reservation modifications to reservas@ravioxo.com. That was the exact email address that I had sent all 3 emails to. Eye roll, but fine. I’ll try again.

RavioXO had a cancellation fee, and I was afraid I’d be charged the cancellation fee for the 2nd person, who was not going to join me. After a brief “misunderstanding,” I was told that the reservation system doesn’t allow tables of 1 person,

“because in our restaurant we do not make reservations for one person. Our availability is only for tables of 2 people or more. In case you finally cannot find a person to accompany you, we could cancel the reservation and we will not charge you any cancellation fee.”

What’s actually wild is, RavioXO has bar seating available in the restaurant, so they could have just sat me at the bar or in a sad corner hidden away from humans. Really anything. But no, Chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO denied me the chance to eat there.

Many people on the internet have tried to suggest to me that solo diners cause a “restaurant to lose money.” To that, I say… have you ever seen me eat?

Had they allowed me to dine that day, quite possibly because I felt bad over the hassle, I would have definitely overcompensated and treated myself by ordering more. A wine or two at lunch, starters, desserts – who knows? The sky could’ve been the limit. If only they served solo diners.

Dear Chef Muñoz and the team at RavioXO,
Being a solo traveler (and a woman at that) is hard enough as it is. People stare at me and harass me all the time simply because I’m a woman alone. And your restaurant? Doesn’t even allow me to eat. I simply can’t fathom why I wouldn’t even be allowed to take one seat at the bar. If you would like to have a honest and frank conversation about how your “more than 2 people only” policy is not inclusive, I would be happy to engage in a discussion offline with you about that.

4. Best hidden gem in Madrid – Restaurante Barrera

After being snubbed for being a solo diner at one of Madrid’s hottest restaurants, I was left scrambling to find an alternative.  Granted, Madrid is full of excellent restaurants, but how do you choose from 100 fantastic ones?  Following the snub, I really just wanted a homey, off-the-beaten path, cozy restaurant – something that would embrace me with Spanish warmth and hospitality. So, who did I turn to in that instance? None other than Phil Rosenthal, who you may know from Somebody Feed Phil.

Restaurante Barrera is a restaurant with no website, no social media, and no written menu. There are barely any reviews online either. Don’t let that deter you, it’s probably one of the best food experiences in Madrid you could hope for!

When I walked into the Calle Ponzano tapas bar and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what to expect. In all honesty, I didn’t watch Phil’s episode (didn’t want to ruin the surprise) and I was still feeling a little shy from my rejection the day before. Ana Barrera, proprietress, greeted me as I walked in.

Ana and I exchanged some pleasantries, when she asked me about dining alone. I said that sometimes I want to travel and eat nice things, but if no one can accompany me, I choose to go alone. She expressed that she could never have done that back in her day, and that she thought I was very full of “valor” to do so. At least that’s what I could pick up from my poor-Spanish and her (much better) English. I don’t know that anyone has ever referred to me as brave for continuing on in my solo experiences in life, but I appreciated it both in the moment and after.

Without further ado, and without a menu, Ana began listing off the tapas I could choose from.

• amuse bouche – egg salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds
• light and crisp gazpacho soup, with micro greens (not shown)
• crispy fried artichokes tossed in sea salt
• the cabrito (baby goat)
• an exquisite lemon tart for dessert

If I had more of a stomach, I would have tried their famous crispy pork belly with (mashed) potato, but I think I had a wonderful variety with the above! Despite being tapas, these are definitely not small plates! But they are meant to be shared. With a second diner, you should definitely get all of the above and the crispy pork belly and potatoes! My whole meal cost 58 EUR which was a steal for the quality of the meal I had!

Notable standouts for the meal:

• the texture of the pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds with the egg salad amuse bouche was an incredible addition to add variety in the egg salad texture. And marcona almonds are always light and crunchy and especially delicious.
• THE FRIED ARTICHOKES. OMG. Expertly fried with gorgeous sea salt flakes. The sweet aubergine (eggplant) glaze was a nice contrast, but I’m not a hugely saucey person, so the artichokes were still perfect without
• The cabrito (baby goat) – I didn’t quite expect the cut to look like that, but then again, I really didn’t know what to expect. The flavor was rich and velvety almost, and wonderfully tender. It seemed to be prepared very simply, roasted in a wood-fired oven for hours in its own juices. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best way.
• the lemon tart was also a stand out. Calling it a lemon tart really doesn’t do it justice. The outer shell was a hard meringue, with a creamy and still warm, lemon cream/custard oozing out, covering a hidden lemon ice cream on the inside. So many different textures and temperatures, all coming together with a tart, lemony flavor. EXQUISITE in every way!

I wish I could tell you more about Ana and the restaurant, but communication was uneven and internet research for this truly off-the-beaten-path restaurant is scant. After the meal, I did watch Phil’s episode there (Season 5, Episode 5). His chef pal, Javier Bonet, explained “it’s a way – how you eat the food, sharing it with somebody. This is the concept of tapas.”

Well, despite tapas meant for being a shared experience, Ana and Restaurante Barrera made my lunch-for-1 incredibly special and memorable. Out of all the gourmet experiences in Madrid on this trip, Restaurante Barrera was the one that stood out the most.

So, thank you Ana for the wonderful meal, and I will be back for the pork belly and potatoes soon!

Parting thoughts on my gourmet experiences in Madrid

I was a little surprised at how many unique and incredible culinary experiences Madrid had to offer! Yes, Spain is known as a foodie heaven, but I hadn’t actually heard anything specific about Madrid. I mean, to be fair, I’ve never had such a wide variety of experiences in the time span of a few days! It made Madrid just an incredibly delicious trip.

There were so many once in a lifetime food experiences wrapped up in this one short trip. Dining at the world’s oldest restaurant and tasting the suckling pig that’s been roasted in the same way, in the same oven as it was 300 years ago was so special! and not to mention delicious! The churros and chocolate were a surprise breakfast that I didn’t expect, and I wouldn’t eat such a sugar-heavy breakfast in the future, but hey – when in Madrid, do as the Madrileans would have done since 1894! But light and expertly fried (and who doesn’t love to dip a churro), and given that they are open 24-7, there’s no excuse not to swing by and try it!

The Corral de la Moreria flamenco and Michelin-starred dinner experience is definitely for those first timers to Spain, or for people who have never experienced the excitement of Flamenco! Normally at venues where a lot of tourists flock, the food is nothing to write home about. But with this flamenco tablao, food is just as important as the flamenco. Experience a truly unforgettable evening at the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao!

And to round out all the experiences, a wonderful meal at Restaurante Barrera. After being sad and rejected by the hottest restaurant in town, this unassuming tapas bar and restaurant swooped in and saved the day. With simple by powerful dishes and Ana’s soft smile and gentleness, this is by far the stand out of my trip. For a restaurant with no menu, no website, and a written receipt at the end, this was truly the best food in Madrid.

The list above are probably the most outstanding culinary and gourmet experiences in Madrid. If you are looking to supplement this list with the basics on what to eat in Madrid, first start with the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour of Madrid, and then why not consider:

For this trip, I stayed at the Thomson Madrid – a newly opened 5-star hotel located between the Grand Via and Puerta del Sol. While it was a lovely stay, there was a lot of construction around the property. But it had a phenomenal location and I walked everywhere during my trip from there! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.

For other nice hotels centrally located near Grand Via, consider:

• Hyatt Centric Gran Via Madrid
• Hotel Montera Madrid, Curio Collection By Hilton
• JW Marriott Hotel Madrid

If you’re looking for other unexpected foodie adventures outside of Madrid, how about these places for some food for thought:

• Cheltenham – a Regency town in England with an unexpected food culture;
• Shetland Islands – a place where food stories warm your heart and soul!

And that’s it for today folks! Until next time, stay healthy and safe!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

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3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m no stranger to sleeper trains or overnight travel, having often slingshot my way across Europe using a complex and random combination of overnight trains and buses. Of course there were also the (slightly miserable) ones in Southeast Asia, slowly bouncing along at night from Bangkok to Laos, where you felt the tug and pull of the train every time it thought it could. But that was then, this is now. So sit back, relax, and let’s chug along together on this overnight train adventure!

Welcome to the Caledonian Sleeper, your sleeper train to the Highlands.

1. Introducing the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper is the only sleeper train to Scotland and is a true gem of British travel. Whether you’re heading up to Scotland for business or pleasure, the Caledonian Sleeper is both luxurious and convenient – two factors that often make the best journey. It has cozy private cabins and individual seats (something for everyone!), delicious dining options (both room service and in the club car / lounge car), and stunning views of the English and Scottish countryside.

From London Euston at night, the Caledonian Sleeper connects you to one of these great places in Scotland:

• Edinburgh Waverley
• Glasgow Central
• Inverness: includes stops in Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore
• Fort William
• and Aberdeen.

(accessible room shown above)

For the purposes of this post, I am writing with London as the starting point. This trip can also be done in reverse – from any of those 5 locations in Scotland, down to London in the morning.

There are a few different options for seats / accommodations on board the Caledonian Sleeper. Both seats and cabins have accessible options for those who may need it. Train tickets for accessible rooms and seats can now be booked online!

Prices for the Caledonian Sleeper depend on the actual route you’re taking (some are longer than others) and how early you book your tickets, so with all things, planning ahead is always better!

• Comfort Seats start from 50 GBP,
• Classic Rooms from 175 GBP for Solo or 205 GBP for Shared,
• Club Rooms from 235 GBP for Solo and 290 GBP for Shared, and
• Caledonian Doubles from 345 GBP for Solo and 410 GBP for Shared.

(Hooray for pricing that doesn’t include a single supplement!)

These prices are for a one-way journey. If you want a round trip, simply book two one-ways. There are no cost savings with booking a return journey.

– Complimentary Sleep Kit and Amenities Bag (Double Only)

The complimentary Sleep Kit, which comes with all reservations, includes an eye mask and ear plugs. The additional pouch with Arran Sense of Scotland amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, lip balm, anti-bacterial gel and hand cream) are included in Caledonian Double.

– Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?

The short answer: if you’re 2 people – definitely yes! If you’re 1 person, I still say yes – even if you want to get a cabin.

Normally, I travel between London and Glasgow on the Avanti West Coast train. On average, it costs 100 GBP one-way and takes 4.5 hours. When you take into consideration a hotel room either in Glasgow (100 GBP) or London (200+ GBP), the cost justification becomes a little easier.

• To compare, on average, the Classic Room on this route costs 210 GBP and will take between 8-10 hours. But, you’ve moved from A to B in your sleep and you can start your day in a new city!

Additionally, according to a 2021 Rail & Transit Study, taking the overnight train to Scotland instead of flying reduces the carbon footprint by almost 90%!

• the study was based on a domestic UK flight between London and Inverness, and one hotel stay;
• Total kgCO2/ep for Flight & Hotel: 288.9
• Total kgCO2/ep for Caledonian Sleeper: 33

So, taking the sleeper train is an environmentally friendly way to travel between London and Scotland!

2. The new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston

Prior to my near-midnight departure from London Euston, guests in Caledonian Club Room and Caledonian Double Rooms are invited to relax in the new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston. If you’re heading to Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can access the lounge starting from 20:45, basically after the passengers for the Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness train are fully boarded onto their train.

The new lounge, just opened in 2024 is located on Platform 1, right next to where you’ll board the train. With comfortable seats, free drinks and snacks available (hot foods and alcohol available for a fee), and clean, shower facilities, what’s not to enjoy about the lounge?

For me, it had been a long day, so a shower was a must. Yes, I have a shower inside my Caledonian Double Suite, but a stationary shower is better than one where you’re balancing with the motion of the railway tracks! And boy, after a long day, there is nothing better than a shower!

Just ask the lounge attendant for a towel. The showers are equipped with Arran Sense of Scotland shampoo and body wash.

💡Expert tips on showering in the Euston Guest Lounge:

• I always travel with a pair of flip-flops, and I’m glad I had them with me! There was no bath mat available yet.
• There are also no hair dryers yet, so either ask for an extra towel in the beginning or use your bath towel to towel dry your hair.
• There is a heated towel rack in the cubicle.
• While there is room in the shower cubicle for my small luggage and backpack, I continuously had to maneuver around to grab things out of my luggage that I needed. Smartly pack your bag in advance to accommodate this!

The Euston Guest Lounge is brand new in 2024, and it was already a relaxing way to start my journey. I didn’t opt for a pre-boarding meal, but I spotted a few folks enjoying the haggis, neeps and tatties. It looked great!

For more details on lounge access:

• Euston Guest Lounge
• Other stations

3. Boarding the Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re in the lounge, an announcement will be made when its time to board. But if you’re not in the lounge, the sign boards in London Euston station will let you know when boarding begins. The Caledonian Sleeper departs from Platform 1, which is on the very right end of the station.

The carriages are in order depending on where /when you depart the train. There are train attendants along the way to show you the way, and to check you in once you arrive at the right carriage. They’ll tell you that your room (if you had one) is unlocked and the key is found inside it.

And while it’s not mandatory by any means, might I suggest plopping down on your bed for an obligatory comfy selfie as you settle in and relax for your overnight train journey ahead!

4. Food and Drink options on the luxury sleeper train to Scotland

Honestly, who would I be if I didn’t devote a mini section to the food and drink?

The food and drinks available on the Caledonian Sleeper differ depending on which route you’re taking – Edinburgh and Glasgow routes enjoy the Lowlander menu, whereas Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William guests will have the Highlander menu. I took a quick peak at both of them, and don’t worry – no matter if you’re traveling the Lowlander or Highlander route, whisky, haggis, and Irn Bru are on both menus, so rest assured – you can try all 3 and become an Honorary Scot!

Traveling on the Caledonian Sleeper during the summer time means that sunrise is earlier, and you’ll get incredible views while you enjoy your breakfast.

If you’re in the Caledonian Double (first class) or the Club Room, breakfast is included in your ticket, which can be eaten in the Club Car or served in your room. Note the final breakfast service times at the bottom. For most destinations, you’ll need to be served before 7 am (except Fort William and Inverness), so if you’re not an early bird, set an alarm so you won’t miss breakfast! Hang your breakfast order on the door within 30 minutes after departure.

There is also an in-seat / room service dining menu available for Classic Room and Seated Coach travelers.

– Limited Edition Caledonian Sleeper Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Annandale Distillery

2023 marks the 150th Anniversary of the Caledonian Sleeper train, and boy are they celebrating in style! In collaboration with Annandale Distillery, a Lowland scotch whisky distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, Caledonian Sleeper has just released an exclusive Caledonian Sleeper Whisky on a limited run of 200 bottles. Matured for 8 years in an American oak ex-bourbon cask, this single cask whisky is bottled at 50% ABV.

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According to the press release, the Caledonian Sleeper whisky,

“offers hints of creamy sweet toffee combined with the crisp flavours of ripe granny smith apples and conference pears.”

-Annandale Distillery

Commemorate your trip by purchasing a 5cl bottle (with exclusive Caledonian Sleeper labeling) to enjoy as a nightcap or a future souvenir.

Sales of the Caledonian Sleeper limited release single cask whisky will benefit Railway Children, an international charity working with street children, and a bottle will be auctioned off with proceeds benefiting Give a Dog a Bone, a Scottish loneliness and animal charity.

To find out more about the Caledonian Sleeper whisky and to book your journey,

5. Caledonian Sleeper First Class Review – my true life experience

I am writing this section at 05:30 from an empty Club Car, as the train sits at Edinburgh Waverley station waiting for our Edinburgh passengers to alight. It’s my first trip on the Caledonian Sleeper

The train normally departs London Euston past 23:00 but there were some planned engineering works on the tracks, so our departure time was earlier than normal. By the time I fell asleep around 22:30, we hadn’t really left the greater London area yet. We chugged along for a bit and then stopped for quite some time. I don’t know why, but I was waiting for the excitement of a moving train before going to bed. Sometimes we can be a bit silly, I guess.

I read online that the Club Car can get rowdy and busy at night, and due to limited seating, you should hurry up and rush there to grab a table. Passengers staying in a room have access to the Club Car, with those in Caledonian Doubles having priority access. And as soon as I got settled in my cabin, I went down to the Club Car. Over the next hour, only a handful of people used the Club Car – a lady was dining, two gentlemen were having a drink, and another gentleman was sitting reading on his iPad. Maybe I just boarded a train full of introverts, which is fine by me.

So now that I’ve done the Club Car, it’s time for me to shower and head to bed. Towels are provided in a big pouch hanging on the door.

Although it’s small, I’m grateful for the en-suite bathroom and shower. I didn’t expect the shower pressure to be anything to write home about, and it definitely isn’t. For people thinking about washing their hair, think twice. The water pressure on my train was definitely not strong enough to rinse shampoo out of your hair.

The toilet basin has a big wooden cover with a handle, so you really only lift up the cover when using the toilet. There is a little nook inside that stores the toilet paper, so nothing gets wet when you shower.

Be careful, the lock on the door latch juts out, and maybe I bumped into it while showering.

Regardless of if you have a toilet and shower in your cabin, all cabins include a sink and basin for brushing your teeth and washing your face.

In the cabin itself, the bed made up the majority of the room. My luggage went under the bed, which left me with a small standing area / walkway between the door and the sink. For me, a somewhat clumsy but petite person, I bumped and knocked myself along the walls as I changed into my pajamas.

I dimmed the lights and began to settle in bed, but I quickly got up to grab the eye mask from the complimentary sleep kit and put it on. Various emergency buttons emit light in the cabin, and this gal enjoys complete darkness in sleep.

When my alarm woke me at 04:00 (don’t ask), I had slept better than any overnight journey in memory. Although I remember feeling the train moving in my sleep, it didn’t feel disruptive but rather a gentle lulling. And that brings me to now, 05:30 am, in the Club Car enjoying my bacon roll breakfast by myself.

Don’t let my simple bacon roll with its tongue sticking out dissuade you from choosing a simpler breakfast versus the full Scottish. Sometimes a bacon roll with a smidge of brown sauce is all I need to start my day in Scotland right!

After my breakfast roll, there was plenty of time to hang out in my cabin as we made the final leg of the journey between Edinburgh and Glasgow. The majority of the journey was completed under the cover of night. As dawn was about to break, I opened the window blinds for some light and some views. By then, the countryside was already in the distance, and I was left with urban views to finish off the evening’s journey.

6. Parting Thoughts on my overnight train to Scotland

All in all, I was happier with this train ride than I thought I would be! I’ll be honest that I had been eyeing this overnight train for a long time, but each time I’d see the 2-300+ GBP price tag per room, it would stop me in my tracks. But in reality, I never spent the time to think about how much money I would save with one less hotel night in Glasgow/London. So in the end, for a solo traveler, it isn’t too bad!

The double bed was very luxurious for the train, when you’d normally only have a bunk bed. I don’t think I need the first class Caledonian Double every time, but for my first time, it was a nice splurge.

However, I do think you need to set your expectations for what a “luxury overnight train” should be. In a different time and place, luxury train travel would include caviar, afternoon tea services, and glamour that oozes affluence and class like James Bond. While the Caledonian Sleeper isn’t all that, it’s still very nice and a wonderfully comfortable journey!

Since my first time on the Caledonian Sleeper, I’ve have used this overnight train service a number of times, in both the Club Room (bunk beds) and the Double Room. While the Double Room is definitely more luxurious with the big bed and no second bunk hanging over you, the Club Room is still a very comfortable overnight train experience.

While I’ve heard people complain about the top bunk being hard to access with a moving train, I just have to remind folks that this is indeed a moving train. People with mobility issues should not attempt to mess around with the top bunk, as the train’s motions on the train tracks aren’t guaranteed to be seemless. Think of it as turbulence on the rails, and something you need to be careful of.

Similarly, that also means the train rocks and sways as you sleep as well. Light sleepers may be bothered by this, and while this is still a comfortable journey, it’s definitely not the same as sleeping in your own bed. I just want to manage expectations, because the Caledonian Sleeper is a truly fantastic overnight train.

Also, for those wanting to take advantage of the stunning views of the countryside, be aware that outside of summer months, the nights are dark and long. If you’re only traveling between London and Glasgow / Edinburgh (the Lowlands), expect to arrive in Scotland still under the cover of night. If you’re headed all the way up to the Highlands, you may catch a glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise before you disembark.

Taking the train in the summer with the increased daylight hours really only make the journey more stunning, especially those traveling on the Highland lines up north. You’ll be able to enjoy the beautiful highland landscape with your morning coffee and breakfast.

Whether you opt for a simple seat, a Classic Room (bunk beds, no toilet/shower), a Club Room (bunk beds, with en-suite), or a Double Room (big bed, with en-suite facilities), there is something for everyone’s budget and sensibilities.

And with that, my Caledonian Sleeper review comes to a close. And I bid you adieu!

I hope you found my review of Caledonian Sleeper to be helpful. It truly is the best (and only) sleeper train to the Highlands from London. I’ve included some itinerary suggestions and a detailed frequently asked questions below in case my write up didn’t touch upon some of your questions.

To book the amazing Caledonian Sleeper, visit www.sleeper.scot.

7. Ideas for your Scottish adventure?

Now that you’ve decided on taking the sleeper train to Scotland, let’s plan your Scottish adventure!

• First things first – if you’re traveling to Scotland as an Outlander fan, look no further. I’ve written all about the Outlander filming locations you can visit, with public transpo directions or tours you can take. Step through the stones to Lallybroch or Castle Leoch during your trip!
• In Edinburgh, don’t miss:
  • visiting Holyrood Palace, the Scottish home of the British monarch,
  • get introduced to Scottish food on a delicious food tour;
  • enjoy the National Galleries of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
  • take a tour of the Water of Leith and Dean Village (shown above).
• In Glasgow, be sure to check out Glasgow Cathedral, the necropolis, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
  • Be sure to immerse yourself in some whisky, with a visit to Glengoyne Distillery! You’ll be surprised how quickly you got out of the city and into highland heaven!
  • Take a day trip to Oban (seafood capital of Scotland) and Glencoe on a Highland lochs and castles tour!
• In the Highlands and Islands,
  • Need a hotel recommendation for Inverness? How about staying at Ness Walk, a 5 ⭐️ luxury hotel that recently won the Most Romantic Hotel in the UK❣️ I’ll be designing a foodie itinerary for Inverness in collaboration with Ness Walk, so stay tuned for that!
  • Balmoral (and the Cairngorms National Park) is one of my favorite places to go and unwind;
  • set out on the North Coast 500 for some spectacular scenery!
  • go further afield with a day trip to Orkney!
  • Use the Scottish Islands Passport for ideas and to help plan your adventure!
• Last but not least recommendation: here is a carefully curated list of the best seafood in Scotland.

8. FAQ for the Caledonian Sleeper

• Is this the only overnight train in the UK? No, aside from the Caledonian Sleeper, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs overnight train services between London and Cornwall.
• How much luggage can I bring with me? Each guest can bring 3 items of personal luggage on board for free – two suitcases (no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm / 11.8 in x 27.6 in x 35.4 in) plus one item of hand luggage.
  • If you have larger items, let the on-board teams know and they can store it separately.
  • There is space under the bed for your suitcases. If you are staying in the Club Room or Caledonian Double, do not put your luggage in the en-suite bathroom, because if it falls it can block the door from opening.
• How much is the Caledonian Sleeper family ticket? Family ticket prices depend on how many rooms are required per family, but there will always be a guaranteed bed for all travelers, including children. A quick check showed 2 adults, 2 children in 2 classic rooms, booked as a family ticket cost 450 GBP. But as noted above, prices vary depending on a number of factors. There are a handful of inter-connected rooms available for families.
• Is there a first class on the Caledonian Sleeper? Caledonian Double ticket-holders are considered in first class, which is why they have a big bed, receive the extra amenity kit and have priority seating in the Club Car.
• Is there lounge access before boarding? The guest lounge, similar to an airline’s first class lounge, is a good way to relax before your journey. Different stations have different lounge specs (some include showers, others share lounge space with other train lines, access to some depend on your ticket type). Get more information on the lounge and your access.
• Can I bring furry friends on board? Up to 2 pets can join you on board if you’ve reserved a room. Sorry, for those who booked seats only, your furry friend can’t join you. There is no ticket cost for your furry friend, but there will be an additional 30 GBP cleaning fee per room.
• Can I bring my bicycle on board? Yes you can! Bicycles don’t cost extra, but you will need to reserve a space for it during your booking. (whoops, forgot to? Don’t worry – just contact Guest Services and they will add the bicycle reservation to your booking).
• Technical stuff: Yes, there is Wi-Fi on board, but there are some sections of limited service. In each room and at the comfort seats, there are power outlets (and USB-A ports) for charging small devices.
• Shower, if I don’t have the en-suite: For those traveling in seated coach or class rooms (and do not have an en-suite shower), you can purchase Shower Tokens on board to access showers in Fort William, London Euston, and Inverness after you arrive. Towels come included!
• Left Luggage facilities: If you need to dump your luggage before or after your trip, there are left luggage facilities at London Euston, Glasgow Central, Glasgow Queen Street, Edinburgh Waverley, Inverness and Fort William for a fee.
• Railcard discounts? Certain National Railcard holders may receive discounts on their fare, depending on a few factors. Read up on the Railcard Discounts offered on Caledonian Sleeper.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Following from my last post, where we visited the epic operatic stage where James Bond & Mr. White meet in Quantum of Solace, let’s continue to chase 007 in and around Austria.  This next location brings us to Sölden – located in the Otzal Valley of the Austrian state of Tirol, high in the Austrian Alps. It apperas that James Bond loves Austria. We must share that in common.

During the winter months, Sölden is known for it’s skiing – and in the summer, mountain biking and hiking trails.  Everyone walking around town in the summer is carrying a bike or hiking sticks, and I presume ski poles replace those when it turns cold.

For the duration of this post, although Sölden is spelled with an umlaut over the o, I will refer to it as either Soelden or Solden.  All three are commonly used.  I am doing it because my keyboard does not have such a key and constantly copying and pasting one ö is silly…  Thank you for understanding!

1. James Bond filming location: 007 Elements in Spectre

Now.  Back to James. James Bond. 

In 2015’s Spectre, James travels to a health clinic in the Austrian Alps, to look for Mr. White’s daughter – Dr. Madeleine Swann.  She gets kidnapped and Bond pursues them in a prop plane that bursts through a farmhouse.

It is there that Q analyzes Mr. White’s ring, and they first realize the existence of Spectre.

The location of Dr. Swann’s clinic is actually ice Q, a restaurant located around 3,000 meters up in the Alps.

Gaislachkogl, the peak where ice Q and 007 Elements is located, is reachable by cable car or on foot from Solden.  ice Q’s modular, modernist design stands out from the alpine peaks surrounding it.

2. Visit 007 Elements

In July 2018, 007 Elements was unveiled in the building adjacent to ice Q, as a “cinematic installation” dedicated to the James Bond films.  I visited 007 Elements in the first few days after it opened. Being in July, you’d probably forget that it is actually really cold that high up. Most of the 007 Elements staff were wearing large winter parkas inside the exhibition.

Honestly, I would have appreciated if someone offered or warned me about how cold it would be inside the exhibit.  But, besides that, it was a fun exhibit, moving through various aspects of the films or the character.

Admission to 007 Elements is 22 EUR | $24 USD for adults, which does not include the cable car / gondola ticket.  With the round-trip gondola included, that increases to 49 EUR | $54 USD.  Of course, you can always hike from town up to Gaislachkogl – I know that people definitely do.  From my calculations, it should be about a 1,700 meter ascent…. So, either way, it will take money or effort to get to the top.

However, I think the price tag is a little steep for what it actually was.  For example, in the early movies, there was a ski pole gun that James used while skiing away from bad guys.  The ski pole gun is in the exhibit, but it’s not like you can play with it.  So looking at it from afar, while watching a clip of the scene where he uses the gun, is not super exciting.  It’s not 007 Elements’ fault – it’s just not that exciting to see it up close.

While you’re at the top, and since you’re spending boatloads of money anyway, you might as well stop in ice Q for a coffee and an apple strudel, with a view.

3. Parting Thoughts on this James Bond filming location

Part of what makes the James Bond movies so fun is the exotic filming locations. Imagining James Bond in the Alps and other far flung places gives your trip an exciting flair.

Visit 007 Elements if you’re a die hard James Bond fan.  For mediocre fans, it was fun, but was it worth chasing James Bond to the Alps? The scenery was stunning and makes it worthwhile!

If you’re thinking to visit Solden, you absolutely should! Solden is beautiful, and there’s lots to do in the vicinity besides 007 Elements. 

If you’re in the area, which I was, it’s worth it to stop by 007 Elements. However, it’s definitely not the main attraction of your stay in and around Otztal Valley.

For another James Bond filming location in Austria, check out my post on the Bregenz Festival!

4. Information to Visit 007 Elements

007 ELEMENTS | map
Otzal Valley, Austria
Daily 9:00 am to 3:30 pm

Phone: +43 (0) 5254 508 0
Email: 007elements@soelden.com

Online Tickets
Adult admission 22 EUR | $24 USD
Adult admission + gondola 49 EUR | $54 USD
Prices updated 22 December 2019

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The story begins with Italian developers in the late 1980s.  The Sheraton Resort was to be the crown jewel of the Cook Islands tourism industry and the island’s first 5-star resort.  With the resort almost 80% complete, construction stopped abruptly following allegations of mafia involvement and money laundering in Italy.  The Cook Islands government was left with $120 million in debt and almost bankrupted.  From talking to local Cook Islanders, this large debt would shape the trend of Cook Islanders immigrating to New Zealand that continues to this day.

From then, other people and companies tried developing and completing the property.  However, something always prevented the completion.  According to the rumor mill, old tribal rivalries led to the land being cursed and recently, re-cursed.  In this day and age, who knows whether curses are really true or not?

Today, the structure stands on a large, open property.  Instead of hotel guests, you’ll find company in a group of cows and goats roaming freely across the land.  Some locals do actually live on the property.  We understand that they struck a deal with the local government to stay there for free, in return for maintaining the lawn and the property.

I went with my tour friends, E and J. When we pulled up in E’s car, a woman greeted us and said it was 5 NZD to visit.  E and J were all about to prepare 5 NZD each, when I stuck out my arm to stop them. I didn’t say a word and handed the woman 5 NZD.  She took the money and then pointed where we could park the car.

E and J were a little stunned, but I later explained that this was not a sanctioned tourist site. It’s not like we are paying an advertised, public admission fee, which taxes on the fees would later be paid back to the Cook Islands government.  No no.  This was a woman, living in an abandoned property, and as part of her agreement to maintain the property, she can charge admission fees for whatever she wants.  I may be simplifying the scenario, but that was how I read it.  So remember, don’t always be so quick to take out your money!

In addition to the abandoned buildings, there is also what looks like a well-groomed BMX track.

Depending on how much you like poking through old, abandoned things, you could probably stay 20-30 minutes here, but probably not more than an hour.  If you’re in the area, and want to see something truly unique to the South Pacific, the Sheraton Cook Islands is for you.  (Incidentally, if you do the cross-island hike from N to S, you should cross through this toward the end…) 

However, if you want your image of Rarotonga to be an untainted, gorgeous paradise, then take a pass on this one.

Background information provided by:  The Guardian Newspaper

Thinkin’ about going?  PIN IT!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

When I was in Oaxaca in April, I visited Olvera’s restaurant, Criollo. Honestly, I wasn’t impressed with it.  However, having a weakness for tacos, and wanting to see what a world class restaurant was like, I made reservations for Pujol’s 1:30 pm taco omakase.  The reservations, made about a month in advance online, required a credit card number for a “guarantee” (in case I cancel..).

Location of Pujol

Pujol is in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City, on a side street (Tennyson) off of Masaryk.  It was a nice walk down the shopping street, Masaryk, where LV, Gucci, Ferragamo and Starbucks are.  I walked to Pujol from a morning visit to the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which was a nice 20-30 minute walk away, if you didn’t keep walking in circles like I did that day…  But I digress.

Nestled on an unassuming street, you may not notice the entrance to the restaurant.

Arrival to Pujol Mexico City

Once inside, they seated everyone with the 1:30 pm taco omakase at the bar.  Each course comes paired with a drink.  The price is the same with or without the pairing.  I’m not a big alcoholic beverage drinker, so as the post and the courses continue, you’ll see how my drinks fared.

Also, before I begin, a big shout out and thank you to Mike, the electrician from Houston, who was my taco tasting companion and source of conversation during the meal. 

2022 update: Mike, the electrician from Houston, googled Pujol in Mexico City and found my blog! He emailed to say hello and that he found my post. Got to love the power of the internet!

Without further ado… the Pujol 8-course Taco Omakase.

1. Street Snacks

For local Mexican diners, the baby corn came with the husk intact, and the Mexicans next to me ate the husk. I didn’t realize it was edible! For us foreigners, the husk is peeled back and we only eat the corn.

Before we move on from the street snacks amuse bouche… The little blue corn puff…  For those of you unfamiliar with escamol (the white toppings on the blue puff), it is a Mexican delicacy.  Some people may be squeamish about it, but escamol is the edible larvae and pupae of ants.  Yes, that’s right.  Ant eggs.  Before you say anything… let me just say one word.  DELICIOUS!!!!  Don’t knock it til you try it!

2. Uni, Beans Tetela

Inside the tetela was black beans. Served with a uni (sea urchin) pico de gallo.  The uni pico de gallo was AMAZING, both on the tetela and on its own.  My favorite course!!

For those of you new to my blog, I was particularly pleased at the uni dish being so delicious.  To find out why, see my other post about sea urchins, here.

Drink Check:

New addition: Atolli, Mexican Pale Ale.  Made from corn.  2 courses, 2 drinks.

3. Eggplant Taco, Hoja Santa, Humus, Shisho

I spy a new drink – white wine.

4. Amberjack Taco, Avocado, Seaweed

(served with Mexican sake)

5. Scallop Tostada

(Dressed with lemon, sesame oil, and served with tequila)

Thinly sliced raw scallops lined the crispy tortilla, resulting in a delightfully fresh and crisp tostada.  I’ve never had scallops or a tostada like this!!

More than half way through – let’s keep going on this taco omakase!

6. Seabass Taco al Pastor

7. Softshell Crab Taco, Cucumber, Shiso

I love soft shell crab and shiso peppers!!  And the combination in a taco was amazing!!  So delicious.  Definitely my second favorite course!

Drink Check:

From L to R, drinks for courses 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3.  Water on the very right.  In here there is: tequila, mezcal, sake, rose wine, another beer and white wine.  You can mostly guess which is which. However, since the liquors are all kinda clear colored, I kind of forgot.  You’ll forgive me though.

8. Enmolada, Hoja Santa Tortilla

And now, for Pujol’s famous Mole Madre, aged 1681 days, or almost 5 years!!  The flavor is much richer and tangier than the normal mole.  I’m not a huge fan of mole in general, so this one wasn’t spectacular to me.  It’s definitely unique, I’ll say that!  From the NY Times’ T Magazine,

“Pujol’s mole madre is a contemporary version of [celebratory dishes]. Our own paste is reheated twice a day and is ‘fed’ with new mole whenever we are down to 10 liters. This Solera system gives us a mole that is exponentially more subtle and complex than your average mole. Additionally, since the mole is getting reheated through the months, ‘it has now been alive for more than 400 days’ the recipe adapts to seasonality and the ingredients change accordingly. It might have hazelnut or almond or macadamia or a mix of all three. The same is true for the tomatoes, the fruits, even the chiles.”

Since that review, the mole madre I tried had continued to age another 1,200 some days!

And with that nugget of information, the taco omakase finished on a high note of the legendary aged mole.

Dessert in the Garden

After, we were escorted out to the garden area for dessert.  Enormously tall trees, surrounded by lovely greenery, kept us company during dessert. Delightfully charming outdoor area to enjoy our desserts. However, it was uncovered… and I understand that Mexico City is known for their notorious but reliable 5 -7 pm heavy rain showers (according to locals).

9. Gaznate, Sake Kasu

From L to R: a plum, a cream roll, matcha green tea, and ice cream (i forgot the flavor) with ginger. In the upper right corner is the cloth napkin from our omakase, with a corn kernel pattern on it. They said we could keep it as a memento. Nice touch.

Even though the photo and description above goes L to R, we ate it R to L… They suggested it this way.  Although the plum was good, I was quite disappointed that it was the end.  Especially since I could have had the below pictured cream roll as the last delicious sweet taste in my mouth. But no.  I was good at following instructions.

But just as my disappointment couldn’t be any greater, the wait staff shuffled out one by one. With Beauty and the Beast’s “Be Our Guest” playing in my head, out came the real dessert.  You can see the beginnings of that in the background of my plum photo above.

And now, here is the real dessert.

The thinnest, lightest, most delicious fried churro I’ve ever had!!!  This was definitely the best way to end the taco tasting… if it truly ended with the plum, this review would have gone sour at the end.  But no!  PUJOL’S TACO OMAKASE.  AMAZING TIL THE END.

Parting Thoughts on Pujol’s Taco Omakase

I HIGHLY recommend trying Pujol’s Taco Omakase, if you:

1. want to eat at a world class restaurant
2. like tacos
3. want to try world class tacos
4. don’t mind dropping 2,998 Pesos | $160 USD for 8 tacos and 8 drinks
5. like having 8 different alcoholic beverages in one sitting (or if you don’t drink alcohol, if you like having 8 different non-alcoholic beverages in one sitting… btw, alcohol or not, the cost is still 2,998 Pesos)
6. are not afraid to eat ant larvae/pupae or sea urchins
7. want a souvenir (used by yourself) cloth napkin… (and finally)
8. don’t mind spending 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm eating lunch
9. WANT TO EAT AN AMAZING MEAL!

Restaurant Information

Pujol | map
Tennyson 133, Polanco
11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Phone: +52 55 5545 4111
Reservations Required 
1:30 pm Taco Omakase 2,300 MXN | $115 USD
Prices, as of 20 April 2021

If using Uber, set the address to “133 Tennyson” (actual address), NOT “Pujol”, which will direct to their old location.

Need some help planning your foodie fun trip to Mexico City?

• Luxury hotel suggestions:
  • Hyatt Regency Polanco and JW Marriott Polanco are both within 10 minutes walking distance to Pujol!
  • Centrally located in the Reforma neighborhood, Hilton Mexico City Reforma and Mexico City Marriott Reforma Hotel are also fantastic options.
• More foodie adventure suggestions:
  • Check out the Must-Try Street Foods in Mexico City from Chef Denise, including all the favorites I had on this trip!
  • Instead of Pujol’s Taco Omakase, how about joining a Taco Crawl with a food critic?
  • Join Candelilla, Mexico City’s hidden supper club;
  • Experience a dinner exploring Mexico’s cuisine, from before and after Spanish colonization.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Keep Pujol Taco Omakase on your radar for later?

Ya, pin it for later

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Most tours and dinners include hotel pickup/drop off, which is really convenient.  If they don’t pick up on time, the island is a small circle.  Trust that they’ll be along shortly, because they always are.  (same with the bus!)  Everything is on island time.  So relax, sit back, and enjoy the awesome things to do and eat in Raro.

But first, if you haven’t read my post on Cook Islands food, I suggest you start there!

1. Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes

For my first full day in Rarotonga, I scheduled a BBQ Lunch and Lagoon Cruise with Captain Tama.  It was NZ$79 | $52 USD, which included snorkeling, lunch, a coconut demonstration and sarong show.  The ship was crewed and the tour hosted by a few, young Cook Islander men.  Good humored and full of fun, they took us out from Muri Beach to a beautiful area of blue seas for some snorkeling.  I went in for a bit, but it was a bit cloudy under the water from the current, and man… that current was insane!

Watch this video on YouTube.

After snorkeling, we headed back towards the Muri area, and docked off of an uninhabited island across from Muri. Captain Tama (and maybe another tour company) set up a small dining area with facilities on this island for use during the day.  The crew were busily getting lunch prepared, and were grilling fresh fish and bananas.

From the paw paw (papaya) up top and clockwise, grilled banana and grilled onions, fresh grilled mahi mahi, bread, cole slaw, potato salad, and a sliver of a coconut slice.

I won’t give much else away, but here are a few photos from their coconut demonstration.  No photos of the sarong show.  Why?  I was selected as the model for an introduction to how to tie sarongs or pareos.  shrug..

Really fun time with the crew that took us out that day.  It’s a warm welcome to the Cook Islands and an introduction to their fun loving personalities.

2. Progressive Dinner

After a few hours of rest and relaxation on my patio lounge chair, in the evening, I set out for what’s known as the Progressive Dinner (NZ$99 | $66 USD).  This is a dinner tour, where each of the three courses are eaten at a different family’s house.  Each course came with lots of stories and an introduction to their family and land.

It was a really busy night for the Progressive Dinner… there were probably close to 40 people there.  I guess that’s a bit unusual, and it’s normally a much smaller group, which is how I imagined it. 

At dinner, I met a nice Australian couple on their honeymoon, and an interesting retired New Zealander, Polly.  Polly has been coming to Raro since the mid-1990s, and lives for a few weeks or months there every year.  She’s been coming to the Progressive Dinners for at least the last 5+ years when she’s in Rarotonga, and she keeps coming for the great food and lovely people that host and take part in it.  I wish I talked to her more, because I think she must have great stories to tell.

Without further ado… the progressive dinner.

2.1 First Course

2.2 Second Course

What do you recognize on my plate from my earlier post, introducing food in the Cook Islands?

iSpy list:

• paw paw
• poke
• umu
• rukau

One of the best things to do in Rarotonga, in my book? Eat with friendly locals and hear their stories about life in the Cook Islands.

2.3 Third Course

Parting thoughts on the best things to do in Rarotonga

For my first full day on Rarotonga, not bad, right?  Captain Tama and the Progressive Dinner were both GREAT introductions to the warm and fun-loving spirit of the Cook Islanders. Definitely, if you’re looking for two of the best things to do in Rarotonga, consider Captain Tama’s Cruise and the Progressive Dinner. You won’t regret it!

– Useful Information –

• Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes – NZ$79 | $52 USD, daily, 11 – 3 pm.  Pick up, drop off, and lunch included
• Progressive Dinner – NZ$99 | $66 USD, Mondays and Thursdays, 5 – 9:30 pm.  Pick up and drop off included

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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