Here is a little slow travel post on spending a few days on the Isle of Iona.

1. Brief Introduction to the Isle of Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. Iona is a small island, only about 1 mile wide by 3 miles long, and is home to about 130 permanent residents. For visitors, vehicles aren’t allowed onto the island, so there’s an unspoken charm that comes with that. When you arrive to Iona via the short 10 minute ferry from Mull, you’ll be directly in “the village”, Baile Mòr, which is the main settlement. But since it’s the only settlement on Iona, everyone just calls it the village.

Iona has been inhabited since 6000 BC and increased in popularity after St. Columba came to Iona in 563 AD following his exile from Ireland. Saint Columba is known for bringing Christianity to Scotland and subsequently, Iona is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity. Following Columba’s arrival to Iona, he founded the Iona Abbey which still stands as a place of worship to this day. During his lifetime, Columba was known to perform various miracles, such as healing people or expelling evil spirits. I think it’s for this reason people come to Iona, hoping for a miracle, hoping to be healed.

If legends are to be believed, Columba had seen the Loch Ness Monster back in 565, and banished the great “water beast” to the depths of the River Ness.

Many people come to Iona to visit Iona Abbey and bask in the magic and miracles that once imbued St. Columba and his followers. To this day, people still make the pilgrimage to Iona out of hope or desperation seeking some sort of comfort. It was that search for hope and comfort that brought me to Iona the first time.

2. Day trip to Iona vs. a few days on Iona

Since my first visit to Iona, I’ve returned many times and have always stayed a few days each time. Having chatted with many visitors there, so many people feel the pull of Iona and keep returning over the years or even decades. I guess I’m now one of those people.

Unfortunately, due to travel itineraries and schedules, most people only do a day trip over to Iona. If you have time or enjoy slow travel, I would highly recommend considering Iona as a stop versus a day trip, just because most of the magic happens without the day tripping crowds.

During the day, the island heaves with day trippers, crowding into the abbey or filling the puffin tour boats (the puffins nest on nearby Staffa between April to August). Around 4 pm, the queue for the ferry back to Mull extends past the pier and basically into the village. That’s usually when I arrive, when all of the day trippers leave. The late afternoon ferry to Iona on the other hand, in time for hotel check in, barely has a handful of people, if that.

The experience you’d have with a day trip to Iona would be significantly different than if you stayed a few days. With that said, because Iona is small and you’ll go everywhere on foot, you can still have a lovely few hours on Iona. It’s just not the same.

Staying for a few days of slow travel isn’t always feasible, consider a small group tour to Iona, including the Isle of Mull:

• 3-day Mull and Iona trip from Glasgow
• 4-day Mull, Iona and West Highlands from Edinburgh

Or, perhaps looking for a change in your job is a way to fully embrace slow travel. With Jooble, explore remote opportunities for the flexibility to slow your travel down. https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-work-from-home

3. 5 Things to do on Iona

Given that Iona is a small island, there are only a handful of things to do. Most center around the Abbey and St. Columba’s connection with the island. Additionally, since only resident vehicles are allowed on the island, get your walking shoes out – you’ll explore everywhere by foot!

– Stroll through the Iona Nunnery

Between the village and on the way to the Abbey, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, which was founded sometime in the early 1200s. The nunnery remained as one of two Augustinian monasteries for women in Scotland and is still the most complete medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. Following the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and left to ruin.

The Iona Nunnery is a good place for a quiet stroll, possibly accompanied with a freshly fried rhubarb donut from Ailidh Loves Pizza, which is around the corner.

– Take a tour and attend Church Service at the Iona Abbey

A visit to Iona is nothing without taking a tour of the Iona Abbey, a Benedictine abbey, and hearing the story of how the abbey came to be. Entry tickets (10 GBP for adults) to the abbey include an audio guide (or an actual guide at certain times), entry to the museum, and St. Oran’s chapel and the nearby graveyard – the burial place of old Scottish kings. Its a wonderful tour and really interesting to hear about the founding of the abbey to the viking raids, to the changes that have been made to the structure since its inception.

You can attend Sunday service at Iona Abbey (or evening service) even as non-members of the church. There have been a few church services that I’ve attended around the world that have moved me, and the Sunday Service at Iona Abbey was one of them. If you’re having a moment in life, and just need a bit of extra positivity, the church service at Iona Abbey may be exactly what you need. With a friendly hello and “peace be upon you” from your neighbor, it serves only to warm your heart and spirit.

Attending the Cook Islands Christian Church at the other end of the world and Saint Augustine Catholic Church in New Orleans have been special and moving church services that I’ve attended in my life.

Book of Kells connection to Iona

It’s been said that the Book of Kells was written in Iona and transported back to Ireland for safekeeping following a Viking raid on Iona in 806. The Book of Kells (sometimes known as the Book of Columba), a 9th century illustrated manuscript of the Book of Gospels, in Latin, was kept at the Kells Monastery (Ireland) from then until the 1650s when it was sent to Dublin. Since 1661, it’s been housed at Dublin’s Trinity College. Whether the Book of Kells was written and illustrated in Iona isn’t completely known, but some connection between Iona and the Book of Kells is known.

For both religious and non-religious, the visiting the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College in Dublin is an absolute must when in Ireland – the details are exquisite.

Photos courtesy of Trinity College Dublin

– Search for Eternal Youth at the highest point on Iona

Grab your hiking boots, and head up to the highest point on Iona, Dùn Ì (prounounced dun-ee). It’s only a 101 meter (331 feet) scramble up, but from there, you can see the entire island, and maybe even the lighthouse on Tiree on a clear day. You know you’ve made it to the top when you reach the cairn. Be sure to find the Well of Eternal Youth and bathe your face in it. Standing at the cairn and facing north, head down the slope, towards a cleft in the rocks. Eternal youth awaits you!

Note: the entrance to Dun-I is near the pods. If you’re walking (on the one road), you’ll see a sign that says “NOT” the entrance to Dun-I. (love that). The entrance is basically the next gate you encounter. It’s a counterintuitive note, but will make total sense when you are there.

– Find Columba’s tears in Columba’s Bay

Columba’s tears, also known as mermaid tears, are found on the rocky shores from the hike to the south of the island (trail map). Iona green serpentine marble, a light green, translucent little pebble, can be found on the south side of Iona at St. Columba’s Bay or the old Marble Quarry. In the photo below, I think it’s the lightest color pebble. That day, I was just picking up all small green pebbles in order to figure out which one was a tear later.

L: St. Columba’s Bay on Iona
R: A handful of pebbles, the lightest one should be Columba’s tear

Superstitious travelers carry Columba’s tears with them in their pocket, as its said to prevent against drowning.

If you’re lucky enough to find two Columba’s tears, one represents something negative to leave behind (and is thrown into the sea), and the other is for you to take home and remember your new beginning or intended commitment.

– Bask in the sunshine, hide in the rain

• Explore the beaches – Bay at the Back of the Ocean on the west coast and White Beach on the northern tip of Iona are both spectacular and secluded with lush, fine sandy beaches. St. Columba’s Bay in the south is a pebble beach with Columba’s tears hidden among the stones. But give the whole island a wander, there are several beaches that you just stumble upon!
• Iona Golf Course – pick up your scorecard for 1 GBP at the local post office, and then walk 30 minutes to an incredibly remote golf course, maintained by grazing cattle and sheep, with the wild sea as a backdrop. 18 holes with an audience of sheep watching!
• OR, if it’s puffin season (April to August) go on a puffin tour to nearby Staffa! Staffa Tours picks you up directly from the Iona pier and heads over to Fingal’s Cave and the puffin colonies on uninhabited Staffa.

4. Food on Iona

Being a small island, there’s only a handful of places to eat on Iona. It might surprise you that the food is actually phenomenal! I’ll break it down for you:

– Argyll Hotel

Located just off the pier, the Argyll Hotel is a favorite of mine, not only to stay on Iona, but to eat as well! Gorgeously fresh, locally sourced and grown food, with a cozy, warm vibe. The shortcut from the hotel toward the abbey includes a wander by the Argyll Hotel’s garden, which supplies the hotel with locally grown produce. Meals at the Argyll Hotel can be taken in the conservatory, with a beautiful view overlooking Mull and the Sound of Iona.

What is this delicious delight to my left? Pan seared Iona hogget loin, roast garden potatoes, samphire, hogget & wine ragout, rhubarb jus & crispy capers. I mean… absolutely exquisite!

So many incredible chefs began at the Argyll Hotel in Iona – Pam Brunton from Inver, for one, and Carla Lamont from Ninth Wave, another. Both incredible chefs who honor sustainability and locally grown produce in their creativity. And both incredible destination restaurants worth visiting!

– St. Columba’s Hotel

St. Columba’s Hotel is the other hotel and restaurant on Iona that packs an incredible punch! I haven’t stayed here, but I have had a few delicious meals here. When the sun is shining, the picnic tables in the garden are perfect for a relaxing beer! You won’t be able to miss the St. Columba Hotel Gardens on your way to the abbey, which provides locally grown produce to the hotel and restaurant.

Next door is St. Columba’s Larder, a cute little shop with snacks, gifts, teas, coffees and cakes.

– The Rookery Cafe

Next to the Iona Heritage Center (worth a wee wander into!), the Rookery Cafe is a wonderful addition the Iona food scene. It’s a perfect lunch spot for sandwiches and toasties, and delectable dessert treats to enjoy outside in the garden, on its many picnic tables.

The Rookery Cafe is opened during the day, Monday – Saturday. Being an island business, please check their social media for up to date hours and specials.

– Other food options

• Ailidh Loves Pizza: This is a brand new pizza and donut shop that I follow on social media and drool after. Last time I visited, they were only doing donuts (and of course, I got one) but their pizzas and flatbreads (with seafood!) look incredible for next time!
• The Martyr’s Bay – Local cafeteria and diner – your place to get a chippy on Iona.
• Iona Seafood – locally caught and landed crabs, lobsters, and other seafood. if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to order some local seafood to enjoy! pick up, where else? at the pier!
• Iona Craft Shop – this is a super cute craft and gift shop, which also sells coffees and cappuccinos! Pop by and browse the local wares while waiting for your latte.

Other food options across the way in Fionnpfort:

Although the next two are not located on Iona, but rather in Fionnpfort (where you got the ferry to Iona), they get a special mention regardless.

• The Creel Seafood Shack – Regularly voted Best Seafood in Scotland, this little shack is perfect for your black pudding and scallop roll before you board the ferry. Or, your seafood platter on a sunny day. (required to be ordered 24 hours in advance). Don’t forget to add a lush order of chips (fries)!
  • If seafood is your jam, the Creel Seafood Shack makes an appearance on my Best Seafood in Scotland list.

• The Ninth Wave – an exquisite lunch treat from Head Chef Carla Lamont and her husband Johnny, that they deem as “hedonism on a plate.” The Ninth Wave uses seafood caught by Johnny and herbs and produce they grow in their garden. It’s a small dining area, but everyone is served each of the courses at the same time. Carla and Johnny explain the course to the diners in kind of an open forum. It’s casual and relaxed for such an incredible dining experience – one that I hope to revisit again in my coming travels!

5. Parting Thoughts on a slow travel trip to Iona

Iona is truly a special place, and once you’ve been entangled in its magic, you’ll keep coming back. Despite being an extremely small island, the island and its charms tend to have a mesmerizing effect. I’m not sure if you’d get that same feeling during a day trip with other tourists and travelers, but if that’s your entry point into Iona, then far be it for me to deny you that initial feeling!

Just a side note: many people visit Iona as it appears to sit on a ley line. Ley lines are supposed lines that connect multiple prehistoric or ancient sites, often with a certain kind of energy or paranormal phenomena. The ley lines connect Iona with other prehistoric sites in Scotland, including the Callanish Standing Stones on Lewis and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney. Whether you believe or not, these sites are special. But is it the secret source of Iona’s magic? Who knows.

But what I can say is, a slow travel trip to Iona is rejuvenating to one’s soul. Slow down, breathe in the fresh air, laugh and dance in the rain, and eat great food. What else is there in life?

Before I close, I will leave you with an expert tip for your trip to Iona. I make a joke that no matter what, even if it’s sunny and the weather isn’t forecasted to rain, I always get caught in a mass downpour. Don’t worry, the island is small, so you’re never technically that far away from shelter. For me, the sudden downpour always invokes a laughing fit, which is the right kinda attitude for a place like Iona.

If you’re bouncing around Scotland in addition to Iona, I’d definitely recommend some Hunter wellies (or wellington boots for those who want to be a bit more formal), which are waterproof and perfect for sloshing around in the rain. They even have insulated wellies if you normally get cold feet! Trust me, you’ll want to prepare for rainy days in Scotland!

Until next time, dear readers, slow down and look for the magic in life!

6. How to get to Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. To get to Iona from mainland Scotland, you’ll take two ferries with a drive or bus ride in between.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day. Book in advance.
  • Passenger cost: 3.90 GBP (single) / 7.80 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: 14.70 GBP (single) / 29.40 GBP (return)
• Step 3: Drive 1 hour across the Ross of Mull to Fionnpfort or take Bus 96/496 from Craignure to Fionnpfort.
  • (sorry! I tried to get a cost for the bus, but all I could find was that there is an 18 GBP Mull day pass. surely you can buy single tickets from Craignure to Fionnpfort, I just don’t know how much that costs!)
• Step 4: Fionnpfort to Iona ferry, also on CalMac Ferries (10 minute sailing). With multiple sailings per day during high season. This sailing is a turn up and go, so you pay on board.
  • Passenger cost: 1.85 GBP (single) / 3.70 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: -N/A- remember, no cars on the island for tourists!

Fionnpfort is prounounced FINNA-firt

If you’re driving, you will have to leave your car in Fionnpfort, as only resident vehicles are allowed on Iona. You can either pay for parking directly at the pier or, a short walk away (300 meters), there is a free car park. As you drive through Fionnpfort, you’ll see a sign to turn left for a free car park. I’d suggest that instead of the paid parking. It’s about a 7 minute walk to the pier. Since the ferries more or less go back and forth throughout the day, take the extra 7 minutes for free parking.

If you’d like to stay on Iona, in addition to the two hotels (Argyll Hotel and St. Columba’s Hotel) there are also campsites, pods, self catering houses and B&Bs available.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

• The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
• In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

• Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
• Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
• Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

1. The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
2. Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
3. Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
4. Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
5. Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
6. Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

• Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
• Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
• The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
• There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

• waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
• waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
• waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • Browse ScotRail options to Oban
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
• Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
  • Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
• Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

And while I wouldn’t call this a Madrid Food Guide per say, it definitely goes beyond the normal food experiences and highlights some of the extremely cool places to eat in Madrid. So, without further ado, here are some exquisite Madrid food experiences!

1. The Oldest Restaurant in the World – Sobrino de Botín

Let’s start at the oldest restaurant it the world, shall we? It would be rude not to.

Located near Plaza Mayor, Sobrino de Botín is the longest continuously run restaurant in the world (and Guinness World Records holder for oldest restaurant).  Opened in 1725, Restaurante Botin stayed in the Botin family until 1930, when the González family took over. The original González family endured hard times during the Spanish Civil War, narrowly evading a terrible fate, but they managed to stay open and continue roasting its most famous dish. Over the last 300 years, Botin has only been owned by the Botin and Gonzalez families, which is truly incredible if you think about it! 

Botin is known for their roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado).  The suckling pigs need to be at a minimum weight of 4 kg (8.8 lbs) or be at least 19 days old before it is roasted to perfection. The roast takes only about 2 hours in the same open door 300-year-old wood-fired oven (with the tile hood in the photo) that Botin has used since it opened its doors on day 1 in 1725.

Holm oak firewood is used in the oven for roasting. The acorns of holm oak trees are fed to the pigs which produce Jamón ibérico (Iberian, or Iberico ham). The circle of life of acorn, oak and pigs.

Throughout the last 300 years, Botin has had its fair share of celebrities and admirers. But no one more beloved by Botoin than American-writer and war journalist, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway dined there often and even had his own table at Botin – the most unassuming spot in the whole restaurant. Tucked away in a corner, Hemingway was said to be paranoid about being under enemy surveillance and preferred the unassuming corner. I guess I always thought of Hemingway’s would have been more outspoken, or rambunctious, rather than preferring to be sitting quietly in the corner. But what do I know?

Hemingway loved Botin so much, it features in two of his books: Death in the Afternoon, and The Sun Also Rises (one of my favorite books!)

In the last scene of the novel:

“We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.“

– Final scene, The Sun Also Rises.

For those super foodies, you can sign up for a 45-minute tour of the restaurant before lunch or dinner that includes a 7-course tasting menu. Guess who did that?

The tour I took (yellow) includes every floor of the building, from the crypt and wine cellar dating back to the 1500s, up to the top floor, a former boarding house. Rumor has it that Spanish artist, Francisco Goya, worked at Botin in the late 1700s as a dishwasher then waiter.

After the tour, I settled in with a couple for the 7-course family style tasting menu. This was fantastic, as we got to try a spread of their most famous dishes! We could also select whether we wanted the famous suckling pig or an equally famous roast lamb. Not surprisingly, we all opted for the suckling pig.

My 7-course family style dinner at Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world:

• Cured Manchego cheese
• Iberian ham (jamon iberico) & chicken croquettes
• Roasted red peppers with tuna belly
• House scrambled eggs with morcilla blood sausage & potato
• Segovian mushrooms with ham
• Suckling pig (or roasted lamb)
• Dessert – homemade caramel flan for me!

Oh my goodness, what an incredible meal! So many things stood out – the roasted red peppers with tuna belly was phenomenal. The tuna belly was so incredibly tender, and it went wonderfully with the soft texture of the roasted red peppers. The scrambled eggs with blood sausage and potatoes were simple, but delicious. (but then again, I’m not one to shy away from a blood sausage!). The Segovian mushrooms with ham was an unexpected delight. I’m not sure what Segovian mushrooms are, but they reminded me of a fresh and juicy shiitake mushroom. Loved the flavor mixed with the ham!

And then of course, the star of the show, the suckling pig. We didn’t have a whole suckling pig for ourselves, but we all got a more than generous portion. The skin was so light and crispy, not like the thicker pork belly skin you may be used to. The meat, beyond tender and flavorful! And for dessert, I closed with a homemade caramel custard flan. Jiggly, sweet – perfection!

Botin is absolutely one of the most unique restaurants Madrid, and a must if you are hunting gourmet experiences in Madrid!

2. Oldest Chocolateria in Madrid – Chocolatería San Ginés

Visit the oldest chocolatería in Madrid for a quintessentially normal breakfast snack!  (is that elevenses?) Ok, I wouldn’t consider this breakfast, but it seems that locals do!  Deliciously hot and fried churros and served with a Spanish hot chocolate. If you don’t know what a churro, think of a fried donut, except thin and elongated in shape!

Chocolateria San Gines has been making their churros and chocolate combo at the same location since 1894! Nowadays, Chocolateria San Gines basically owns the whole corner, with different indoor/outdoor seating locations, and an ice cream takeaway window. You can still enjoy your churros and chocolate in the original building, which dates back to 1890, but be prepared to queue up for that! For me, it was a lovely morning, so I opted for outdoor seating.

Churros and chocolate is the normal order (in Spanish: chocolate con 6 churros o 2 porras) and that sets you back 5.50 EUR. For 1 person, I didn’t finish it all. For 2 people, it’s probably perfect! Don’t forget to try dipping your churro in your hot chocolate!

Added benefit – Chocolateria San Gines is open 24-7 / 365 days a year! Since it’s open literally 24-7, you really have no excuse on visiting the oldest chocolateria in Madrid, do you?

3. World’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao

Honestly, who doesn’t love a dinner and a show? This gourmet experience at Corral de la Moreria takes dinner and a show to the next level, pairing a one-Michelin star awarded restaurant with an award-winning Flamenco show.

Photography is only allowed during the first 5 minutes of the show, and although my view for the show was fine, the photos/videos did not turn out. The photos of the show were provided by Corral de la Moreria with permission. Muchas gracias.

What is a tablao?

• A tablao is a place where flamenco shows are performed
• A tablao is also the term used for the platform floor in which a flamenco dancer dances.

– Wikipedia: Tablao

The show costs 47.95 EUR, and there are a number of different tasting menus to select from.  If you have specific food allergies or preferences, don’t worry – Corral de la Moreria offers gluten free and vegan tasting menu options, as well!

• If you want to book a dinner and a show, note that you’ll first pay 47.95 EUR for the show booking, and then after the show, you’ll pay for your meal.
• There is also a show + a drink option, for 49.95 EUR, which includes both.
• It’s a bit confusing, but there is also the option to dine without the show, but that is in the Restaurante Corral de le Moreria, which hosts 4 exclusive tables for dinner. The dinner and show are held at Restaurant Tablao (where the Flamenco stage is). I think it’s the same location, but in separate areas. I couldn’t figure out how to book this option on the booking website, just as an FYI!

Since I am an early bird, I went with the 19:30 pm show, with an 18:30 dinner seating. For the menu, I selected the 5-course tasting menu for 79.95 EUR. The meal is paid separately after the show.

• Cream of Glazed Chestnuts, Marrow of Vegetables, Duck and Chinese Artichokes
• Scallop Carpaccio with Tomato Tartare, Dates and Cold Garlic and Almond Soup with Coconut Milk
• Wild Sea Bass with Creamy Stewed Spring Onions and Smoked Iberian Bacon, accompanied by Grapefruit Emulsion and Fried Capers
• Roast Rack of Lamb Rested in its Caramelised Gravy and a Creamy Ragout of Winter Vegetables
• Caramelised French Toast Made With Fresh Milk and Served with Banana Ice Cream

What a truly wonderful evening at Corral de la Moreria! Each course was delicious with interesting flavor combinations, but not one course stood out as absolutely incredible. For me, the sea bass was probably my favorite, as it was expertly cooked to perfection with a light and crispy skin.

Following the meal, the lights dimmed and we were treated to an incredible flamenco show. If you’ve never watched a flamenco show, there would be one word I would use to describe the performers – powerful. Both the male and female performers were so intense and had a great command of their movement and the accompanying songs. The guitarists and singers accompanying the performers were also integral parts of the magic.

Because of the show, the majority of people who choose the dinner and show option are tourists. Let that guide you as to what type of experience you will be having at Corral de la Moreria. Is it off the beaten path and a hidden gem? No. Many travelers flock to Corral de la Moreria for this flamenco dining experience and it is definitely one of the most famous restaurants in Madrid.

That didn’t hinder my experience, but if you’re one of those Michelin-star hunters, it’s definitely not like any other Michelin-starred restaurants! As the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao, Corral de la Moreria is definitely a one-of-a-kind Michelin-starred dining experience!

– My Experience at RavioXO –

Before I move onto the last exquisite foodie experience in Madrid, I need to set up the story which brought me there.

For those who didn’t follow my social media stories about being snubbed as a solo diner, a little context. I made reservations for famed Madrid-chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO restaurant several weeks before my trip. Chef David has a number of restaurants in Madrid which have multiple Michelin stars and often ranks at the very top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Some might say that he’s arguably, Madrid’s hottest chef.

To set the stage, 9 out of 10 meals, due to circumstances of life and travel, I often dine alone. I am fine with this and aside from a handful of annoying experiences, it’s generally not a big deal.

I made reservations online, and although they did not have the option for 1 person, that often happens due to the booking system. Normally, I just email the restaurant afterward and tell them it’s just me. I did just this. Emailed, not once, not twice, but actually three times before someone actually acknowledged me, the day before my lunch.

In that first acknowledgement, they told me to email my reservation modifications to reservas@ravioxo.com. That was the exact email address that I had sent all 3 emails to. Eye roll, but fine. I’ll try again.

RavioXO had a cancellation fee, and I was afraid I’d be charged the cancellation fee for the 2nd person, who was not going to join me. After a brief “misunderstanding,” I was told that the reservation system doesn’t allow tables of 1 person,

“because in our restaurant we do not make reservations for one person. Our availability is only for tables of 2 people or more. In case you finally cannot find a person to accompany you, we could cancel the reservation and we will not charge you any cancellation fee.”

What’s actually wild is, RavioXO has bar seating available in the restaurant, so they could have just sat me at the bar or in a sad corner hidden away from humans. Really anything. But no, Chef David Muñoz’s RavioXO denied me the chance to eat there.

Many people on the internet have tried to suggest to me that solo diners cause a “restaurant to lose money.” To that, I say… have you ever seen me eat?

Had they allowed me to dine that day, quite possibly because I felt bad over the hassle, I would have definitely overcompensated and treated myself by ordering more. A wine or two at lunch, starters, desserts – who knows? The sky could’ve been the limit. If only they served solo diners.

Dear Chef Muñoz and the team at RavioXO,
Being a solo traveler (and a woman at that) is hard enough as it is. People stare at me and harass me all the time simply because I’m a woman alone. And your restaurant? Doesn’t even allow me to eat. I simply can’t fathom why I wouldn’t even be allowed to take one seat at the bar. If you would like to have a honest and frank conversation about how your “more than 2 people only” policy is not inclusive, I would be happy to engage in a discussion offline with you about that.

4. Best hidden gem in Madrid – Restaurante Barrera

After being snubbed for being a solo diner at one of Madrid’s hottest restaurants, I was left scrambling to find an alternative.  Granted, Madrid is full of excellent restaurants, but how do you choose from 100 fantastic ones?  Following the snub, I really just wanted a homey, off-the-beaten path, cozy restaurant – something that would embrace me with Spanish warmth and hospitality. So, who did I turn to in that instance? None other than Phil Rosenthal, who you may know from Somebody Feed Phil.

Restaurante Barrera is a restaurant with no website, no social media, and no written menu. There are barely any reviews online either. Don’t let that deter you, it’s probably one of the best food experiences in Madrid you could hope for!

When I walked into the Calle Ponzano tapas bar and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what to expect. In all honesty, I didn’t watch Phil’s episode (didn’t want to ruin the surprise) and I was still feeling a little shy from my rejection the day before. Ana Barrera, proprietress, greeted me as I walked in.

Ana and I exchanged some pleasantries, when she asked me about dining alone. I said that sometimes I want to travel and eat nice things, but if no one can accompany me, I choose to go alone. She expressed that she could never have done that back in her day, and that she thought I was very full of “valor” to do so. At least that’s what I could pick up from my poor-Spanish and her (much better) English. I don’t know that anyone has ever referred to me as brave for continuing on in my solo experiences in life, but I appreciated it both in the moment and after.

Without further ado, and without a menu, Ana began listing off the tapas I could choose from.

• amuse bouche – egg salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds
• light and crisp gazpacho soup, with micro greens (not shown)
• crispy fried artichokes tossed in sea salt
• the cabrito (baby goat)
• an exquisite lemon tart for dessert

If I had more of a stomach, I would have tried their famous crispy pork belly with (mashed) potato, but I think I had a wonderful variety with the above! Despite being tapas, these are definitely not small plates! But they are meant to be shared. With a second diner, you should definitely get all of the above and the crispy pork belly and potatoes! My whole meal cost 58 EUR which was a steal for the quality of the meal I had!

Notable standouts for the meal:

• the texture of the pumpkin seeds and marcona almonds with the egg salad amuse bouche was an incredible addition to add variety in the egg salad texture. And marcona almonds are always light and crunchy and especially delicious.
• THE FRIED ARTICHOKES. OMG. Expertly fried with gorgeous sea salt flakes. The sweet aubergine (eggplant) glaze was a nice contrast, but I’m not a hugely saucey person, so the artichokes were still perfect without
• The cabrito (baby goat) – I didn’t quite expect the cut to look like that, but then again, I really didn’t know what to expect. The flavor was rich and velvety almost, and wonderfully tender. It seemed to be prepared very simply, roasted in a wood-fired oven for hours in its own juices. Sometimes the simplest ways are the best way.
• the lemon tart was also a stand out. Calling it a lemon tart really doesn’t do it justice. The outer shell was a hard meringue, with a creamy and still warm, lemon cream/custard oozing out, covering a hidden lemon ice cream on the inside. So many different textures and temperatures, all coming together with a tart, lemony flavor. EXQUISITE in every way!

I wish I could tell you more about Ana and the restaurant, but communication was uneven and internet research for this truly off-the-beaten-path restaurant is scant. After the meal, I did watch Phil’s episode there (Season 5, Episode 5). His chef pal, Javier Bonet, explained “it’s a way – how you eat the food, sharing it with somebody. This is the concept of tapas.”

Well, despite tapas meant for being a shared experience, Ana and Restaurante Barrera made my lunch-for-1 incredibly special and memorable. Out of all the gourmet experiences in Madrid on this trip, Restaurante Barrera was the one that stood out the most.

So, thank you Ana for the wonderful meal, and I will be back for the pork belly and potatoes soon!

Parting thoughts on my gourmet experiences in Madrid

I was a little surprised at how many unique and incredible culinary experiences Madrid had to offer! Yes, Spain is known as a foodie heaven, but I hadn’t actually heard anything specific about Madrid. I mean, to be fair, I’ve never had such a wide variety of experiences in the time span of a few days! It made Madrid just an incredibly delicious trip.

There were so many once in a lifetime food experiences wrapped up in this one short trip. Dining at the world’s oldest restaurant and tasting the suckling pig that’s been roasted in the same way, in the same oven as it was 300 years ago was so special! and not to mention delicious! The churros and chocolate were a surprise breakfast that I didn’t expect, and I wouldn’t eat such a sugar-heavy breakfast in the future, but hey – when in Madrid, do as the Madrileans would have done since 1894! But light and expertly fried (and who doesn’t love to dip a churro), and given that they are open 24-7, there’s no excuse not to swing by and try it!

The Corral de la Moreria flamenco and Michelin-starred dinner experience is definitely for those first timers to Spain, or for people who have never experienced the excitement of Flamenco! Normally at venues where a lot of tourists flock, the food is nothing to write home about. But with this flamenco tablao, food is just as important as the flamenco. Experience a truly unforgettable evening at the world’s only Michelin-starred restaurant with a flamenco tablao!

And to round out all the experiences, a wonderful meal at Restaurante Barrera. After being sad and rejected by the hottest restaurant in town, this unassuming tapas bar and restaurant swooped in and saved the day. With simple by powerful dishes and Ana’s soft smile and gentleness, this is by far the stand out of my trip. For a restaurant with no menu, no website, and a written receipt at the end, this was truly the best food in Madrid.

The list above are probably the most outstanding culinary and gourmet experiences in Madrid. If you are looking to supplement this list with the basics on what to eat in Madrid, first start with the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine Tour of Madrid, and then why not consider:

For this trip, I stayed at the Thomson Madrid – a newly opened 5-star hotel located between the Grand Via and Puerta del Sol. While it was a lovely stay, there was a lot of construction around the property. But it had a phenomenal location and I walked everywhere during my trip from there! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re looking for a bit of luxury.

For other nice hotels centrally located near Grand Via, consider:

• Hyatt Centric Gran Via Madrid
• Hotel Montera Madrid, Curio Collection By Hilton
• JW Marriott Hotel Madrid

If you’re looking for other unexpected foodie adventures outside of Madrid, how about these places for some food for thought:

• Cheltenham – a Regency town in England with an unexpected food culture;
• Shetland Islands – a place where food stories warm your heart and soul!

And that’s it for today folks! Until next time, stay healthy and safe!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Pin these gourmet experiences in Madrid for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you’re having trouble pronouncing Cheltenham like me, don’t think too hard about it – it goes by quick: CHELT-en-em.

Cheltenham is famous for a number of things, mostly unrelated to each other and random, in comparison with each other:

• Cheltenham is the most complete Regency town in the UK and you will get Pride and Prejudice vibes from the old spa town. Cheltenham came to prominence after King George III was recommended to “take in the waters” from the mineral springs in 1788.
• Now remember, I said … unrelated.
• Cheltenham is the headquarters for GCHQ, Britain’s home of signal intelligence. The building, affectionally called a donut because it looks like one, does not accept visitors. However, there are some fun murals around town that remind you that they’re there and always listening.
• Previously called the “Calcutta of the Cotswolds” and an “Anglo-Indian Paradise”, Cheltenham had the most Anglo-Indian residents in Britain outside of London. Because of Cheltenham’s history with The East India Company and the British Raj era, it is home to a number of incredible South Asian restaurants.
• Cheltenham is at the gateway to the Cotswolds or at the edge of the Cotswolds. It could be a great base for exploring all those cute picturesque Cotswolds villages!

• It’s home to the Cheltenham Festival, “a horse racing-based meeting in the National Hunt racing calendar in the UK, with race prize money second only to the Grand National.” – wikipedia
  • Sorry to use the definition from Wikipedia, but having never gone to a horse race, I wanted to use the right terminology when I described it. In National Hunt racing (or jump racing), horses are required to jump fences and ditches. And the biggest National Hunt events in the UK are the Grand National and the Cheltenham Gold Cup.
• Besides the big horse racing festival, Cheltenham is home to over 30 different festivals, and is known as the Festival Town! Among the bigger festivals are the Cheltenham Jazz Festival (April-May), the Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival (summer), the Cheltenham Paint Festival (for street art, in September) and the world’s first Literary Festival (October).

With the variety of things to do in Cheltenham, there really is something for everyone!

Before I begin, parts of this trip were sponsored, including my stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments, as well as my bike ride around Cheltenham with Compass Holidays. I sincerely thank them for inviting me on this trip. Besides the cycling tour, all itinerary arrangements and opinions are my own.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s go!

Day 1 – A Foodie Weekend Getaway in Cheltenham

I arrived to Cheltenham Spa rail station midday Friday on a brisk but sunny March morning, having taken a short 45 min train from Birmingham New Street. The station is located about a mile outside of the town center. A quick stop at Beechurst Serviced Apartments to drop off my bags, and to check out my nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham. (all the details below!)

I couldn’t have been more anxious to get out and about. Easily enough, the bus into town is located right outside. Turn left out of the apartments to take Bus 97/98 Gold directly into Cheltenham. Turn right (and cross the street) for the bus to Gloucester.

Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the UK’s most complete Regency Town.

Le Champignon Sauvage

Knowing that Cheltenham was a foodie town meant carefully selecting each of my meals in order to maximize my time there. Of course, last minute planning also meant that my first meal happened to be the most extravagant – a lunch tasting menu at Le Champignon Sauvage. Le Champignon Sauvage, or the Wild Mushroom in French, had been Cheltenham and Gloucestershire’s only Michelin Starred restaurant for many years until nearby Lumiere was awarded a star this year (2023).

Run by husband and wife, David and Helen Everitt-Matthias, since 1987 Le Champignon Sauvage has been an institution in culinary Cheltenham. An old review I read called Chef David’s style as “a pure marriage of rich and poor” opting to use cheaper cuts of meats and offal, along with food foraged from the Cotswolds’ outdoors, in classically French dishes.

Of course, people can say this is part of the sustainable eating, zero waste fad. But to be honest, Chef David and Helen began doing this decades ago, when a recession hit and times were tough. And you’d never feel like you were eating anything less than stellar. Not only is the food absolutely exquisite, but the experience is complimented by the lovely and unique decor, thanks to Helen. The restaurant is filled with incredible art that kept this solo diner enthralled throughout the meal.

My 3-course lunch set me back 47 GBP (a great deal if you’re hungry, considering the 2-course option is 40 GBP). Despite me showing you only two courses, you better believe I had all three. 😉 This was the perfect start to my foodie weekend in Cheltenham.

After lunch, I needed a serious stroll. Luckily, the town is very walkable with lots of outdoor green spaces. I made sure to stop by Montpellier Gardens and Imperial Gardens to soak in the brisk spring day, but in reality I was on a food mission to try Cheltenham’s signature pastry.

The HorseChoux Pastry at L’Artisan

A foodie visit to Cheltenham is not complete without your signature HorseChoux pastry from L’Artisan. Paying homage to the racecourse, the horseshoe-shaped pastry is made with a choux bun base (see what they did there? love a good pun) and cream puff filling, with a thin, light chocolate horseshoe on top. The attention to detail is lovely, as each chocolate horseshoe has the 7 lucky pins on the horseshoe.

I opted for the original flavor, the Racecourse, with hazelnut and almond praline filling. You can also get the Pittville Park (pistachio), the Pump Room (zingy lemon) and the Queens (raspberry). They also have limited edition flavors as well!

Getting a HorseChoux pastry in Cheltenham is an absolute must if you’ve got a sweet tooth! I took one back with me to Beechurst Serviced Apartments, and it made the most delightful snack paired with a strong coffee!

After grabbing my HorseChoux, I did another turn about town before catching the bus back to the apartment for a wee rest.

The Curry Corner

Sometimes I underestimate how tiring it can be to be walking around outside in briskly cold weather. My wee rest turned into curling up in the cozy Holst Apartment for way too long, and suddenly it was time to sort my dinner. I knew it had to be South Asian food, due to Cheltenham’s history and importance with the British East Indies Company.

For those interested in this unique intersection of history, food, India and Imperialism, I’d suggest the Curry and Colonels tour. (Next time for me!)

I opted for The Curry Corner, an award-winning restaurant opened by the Krori family, which claims to be one of the oldest Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK! Thankfully, they deliver which made all my cozy dreams come true. I may have gone a little overboard with 2 orders of samosas, but such is the benefit of having a full kitchen and refrigerator at my disposal! Leftovers for later. 😉

My two orders of samosas were the regular veggie samosas along with an order of Brixham crab samosas, filled with Cornwall fresh crab. Of course, the fresh crab samosa would catch my eye! It was stunningly flavorful, sweet even. I’m so glad I got both samosas for some extra variety!

The main event had to be the Chef’s signature 16 spice masala, which I had with lamb tikka. Add an incredibly fragrant garlic pilaf rice with it, and you have a perfect night in! Chefs Shamsul and Saleha Krori have been cooking since the restaurant opened in 1977, and is now joined by daughter Monrusha in the kitchen.

Day 2 – exploring Cheltenham by bike

After a fabulous first day focused on food, Day 2 in Cheltenham would be spent exploring the Regency Cheltenham cycle trail on bike, thanks to Compass Holidays. The self-guided trail, which starts at the Cheltenham Train Station, is a gentle 6-mile trail, taking you along the Honeybourne Line, through Pittville Park, and back around through to the town centre.

This activity was kindly gifted by Compass Holidays.

There were a few admin items to take care of before setting out: download the app (for my cycling GPS) and adjust the height of the bicycle to fit me. Remember, safety first!

Prices for the Regency Cheltenham Cycle Trail are:

• the mobile app with GPS and information on the cycle trail – 10 GBP;
• standard bicycle hire (25 GBP) or e-Bike hire (35 GBP). All hires include mobile phone mount, helmet, lock and basic repair kit.

and then I was off, along the Honeybourne line (an old railyway line) and onto the Pittville Pump Room!

The Pittville Pump Room

The Pittville Pump Room, built between 1825 and 1830, is the largest (and newest) spa building to be constructed in Cheltenham. The waters around Cheltenham were known to have high mineral content since the early 1700s, but it wasn’t until King George III visited Cheltenham in 1788 that the town became increasingly famous for its waters. Unfortunately the Pump Room did not prove to be successful venture, and the Room and the grounds were passed to the town council in 1890. Nowadays, you’ll find various exhibitions being hosted there, as well as being a concert venue for the Cheltenham Music Festival.

The Pump Room is located on the northern end of Pittville Park, and is a lovely park with a playground for families. One of the lovely green spaces that Cheltenham has!

Cheltenham Racecourse & the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway

From here, although it’s not on the Regency Cycle Trail, I thought it was worth a slight detour to go visit the racecourse. When I visited, the Cheltenham Festival was only a week or two away, and excitement around the races were high. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see any horses, jockeys or even the race track itself, but it was fun to take a stroll around the grounds.

From one end of the racecourse to the other is a little surprise that I discovered – the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway. For those rail enthusiasts, this is a volunteer-run heritage steam and diesel railway that travels 28 miles between Cheltenham Racecourse and Broadway (Cotswolds). The route follows the Great Western Rail’s old Cheltenham – Birmingham main line, which use to run via Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.

For 25 GBP, you can get an unlimited day ticket to go between Cheltenham and Broadway, riding in 70 year old train carriages, pulled by either a steam or diesel-powered locomotive (engine car). This definitely goes hand in hand with a “step back in time” to experience Cheltenham theme! I didn’t have time on this trip for the rail journey, but I hear the views across the Cotswolds are absolutely stunning!

Lunch at The Coconut Tree

After having worked up an appetite from the morning’s cycle and exploration, and checking my map for the rest of the route, I decided now would be the perfect time to pause and have a lunch break. You can’t be too surprised at this priority.

I don’t know if it was the South Asian mood I was already in or if I was just craving Sri Lankan street food, but I decided to go with the Coconut Tree for lunch. Interesting story, 5 Sri Lankan friends made their way to the UK to be closer to family or to continue their studies. One of them made Cheltenham his base, and the rest followed soon after. In 2016, the 5 friends had to move out of their flat and were looking for a new place with cheap rent. They came across the flat above St. Paul’s Tavern (which included the rent for the pub) and from there, the idea of a Sri Lankan tapas place with great cocktails was born.

After 6 months of renovating it themselves at night after working their day job, the first Coconut Tree opened in Cheltenham. Today, they have locations in 9 cities across Southwest England and Wales.

For me, it was an egg hopper (coconut milk pancake, with lots of sambol) and black pork (belly). The food was incredibly flavorful (and super authentic!) and the vibe was fun and easy going. If I didn’t have to cycle home, I definitely would have tried some of their delicious cocktails! The Coconut Tree is definitely a must eat in Cheltenham!

After lunch, I was back on the trail and enjoying spring starting to blossom around me.

The trail takes you back into the city center, and it’s a great time to pause to roam around on foot. Besides the distinctly Regency architecture, there are a few sculptures and things you’ll come across that definitely require a more detailed look. Two of my favorites would be the Neptune Fountain, rumored to be inspired by Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and the Hare and the Minotaur on The Promenade. These two vastly different sculptures really only highlight Cheltenham’s culture of creativity and arts, which the town loves to celebrate through its numerous festivals.

The CheeseWorks – always planning ahead!

I took the opportunity whilst in town to do a wee bit of shopping. I stopped in a few vintage shops and almost came home with a gold embroidered cloak! What if there is a ball? You never know when you’ll need one? But the real excitement of my shopping experience was at CheeseWorks.

I walked into CheeseWorks with a mission – to get local charcuterie that would become my quiet dinner at home. I began chatting with the clerk over the local cheeses, and then he asked what I was looking for. “Honestly,” I said, “I just want to spend about 15 GBP, and get a random spread of local meats and cheeses.”

Simple enough, you came to the right place.

-The Cheeseworks

I’ll be honest, I pick and chose the cheeses at random, but one that was phenomenal was the wild garlic Cornish yarg. In the photo above, you’ll see a block on the bottom right wrapped in something dark. Well, it’s wrapped in wild garlic. If you’re a garlic head like me, you’ll love this! And with an additional 3 GBP, I added a fig jam spread (my favorite!) and some linseed crackers, and I was completely sorted for a quiet dinner at 18 GBP!

Parks and Gardens around Cheltenham town

I mentioned earlier that Cheltenham has a lot of lovely green space for little strolls and people watching. Armed with a latte from the Clementine Cafe, I went around the parks and gardens, found a bench, and sat enjoying my afternoon. Spring was on the verge of blooming, so I bet they’re even lovelier in warmer months! Be sure to check out

• Sanford Park (below right) – take in the wandering foot paths with the Annecy Gardens and Italian Gardens brightening up the park in warmer seasons,
• Imperial Square and Gardens (below left) – located near The Promenade, and planted with thousands of bedding plants for lush floral displays. With Regency architecture surrounding the square and the Garden Bar (in the summer), the best thing you can do is grab a drink and soak in Regency Cheltenham around you!
• Montpelier Gardens – near town center, Montpelier Gardens is mostly divided into two sections – one with tennis courts, a cafe and facilities, and the Gardens Gallery community art gallery. The northern section is more for picnics, walking, sitting, and overall low key hanging out.

With my charcuterie platter in tow, I made my way back to Beechurst Serviced Apartments to coorie in for the evening. If you didn’t want to stay in like me, I’d suggest MUSE Brasserie, Mowgli Street Food, Lumiere (Cheltenham’s newest Michelin Star restaurant), or Purslane Restaurant (known for their sustainably caught seafood!). For those wanting a great cocktail, I’ve heard incredible things about The Alchemist Cheltenham. Those are the ones that kept my attention during my trip research and the ones I’d go back to Cheltenham to visit!

The next morning, I managed to run out for a quick breakfast at WOODKraft before my train. In case anyone was wondering, after a weekend of eating, it was a delectable granola with yogurt and passionfruit. Had I not been rushing out the door to catch my noon train, I would have rounded out the weekend with a quick trip to Gloucester to visit the Gloucester Cathedral, which originally broke ground in 1089! For those Harry Potter fans, the Gloucester Cathedral was used as a filming location for Hogwarts. But alas, train schedules call!

My stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments

Beechurst Serviced Apartments are located in a renovated, grand Victorian farmhouse, just outside of Cheltenham town. There are 5 beautiful and spacious self-catering apartments for you to choose from – four one-bedroom apartments and one studio flat. Owned and operated by Angie and Steve, seasoned veterans of the hospitality industry, Beechurst Serviced Apartments is a family run business. Their previous experience in luxury hotels can be seen in the thoughtful touches around the apartments. There is everything you need to just come in and make it your home for the weekend!

One of the first things you may notice about Beechurst Serviced Apartments when you arrive are the solar panels on its roof. This helps to reduce the building’s energy requirements by almost 40%, which is incredible! That also means that they’ve cut down on single-use amenities to reduce waste, so be sure to pack your bathroom toiletries along with you.

All of the apartments at Beechurst Serviced Apartments are named and decorated after prominent people who came from Cheltenham. For me, it was the Holst Apartment, named after Cheltenham-born Gustav Holst, a composer best known for his orchestral suite, The Planets. Little musical touches were added to the Holst Apartment, keeping in line with the theme.

The Holst Apartment was so comfortable and cozy, and really, such a nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham! Having a full kitchen at your disposal is something that I enjoy, especially when my whole weekend centered around food! I’m not going to lie, I heated up and nibbled on my Bangladeshi curry and delicious samosas as a snack throughout the weekend, and was so grateful for that kitchen!

Despite spending the majority of the brisk weekend outdoor walking and cycling around town, the shower in the Holst Apartment was exactly what I needed – hot and incredibly powerful. Perfect to loosen the muscles and immediately climb into the comfortable bed.

Besides the kitchen and the incredible shower, which are phenomenal amenities, each of the apartments (and studio) has a large, smart TV mounted and a bookshelf with plenty of books to choose from.

Although Beechurst Serviced Apartments sits outside of Cheltenham town center, the bus stop directly outside made going in and out of town super easy. You really don’t need your car for your weekend in Cheltenham, and it’s easy and lovely seeing the sites by bicycle on the Regency Cycle Trail. But if you want to use Cheltenham as a launchpad for a wee getaway in the Cotswolds, then your car will come in handy!

Whether you’re looking for a foodie weekend getaway or a short break to “take in the waters”, Beechurst Serviced Apartments make for a wonderful base for a weekend getaway in Cheltenham!

Parting Thoughts on my Foodie Weekend in Cheltenham

WOW – I could have never expected that Cheltenham was so delicious!! Prior to visiting Cheltenham, I had no idea that it had such a strong, historical South Asian connection that is still very much alive in its cuisine! Foodies will definitely not want to miss the HorseChoux Pastry, which pays homage to the annual Cheltenham Festival and races.

From Sri Lankan street food to the UK’s oldest Bangladeshi restaurant on one end, to some of the best local charcuterie from one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, the Cheltenham food scene encompasses a lovely mix of historical, traditional and local. The fun and vibrant culinary scene continues to expand with restaurants and cocktail bars being recognized by outsiders more and more.

Staying at Beechurst Serviced Apartments was perfect for me with easy access into town and all the homely touches I needed for a weekend away.

To conclude, my weekend in Cheltenham was a wonderful escape for anyone looking for a little bit of history along with a culinary adventure. Whether you’re a horse racing fan, a foodie, or just someone who loves exploring new places, Cheltenham has something for everyone. With its charming streets, picturesque gardens, and mouth-watering food, you’ll fall in love with Cheltenham in no time. Cheltenham is easily accessible as a weekend getaway from London (or even further afield like Glasgow)! It’s a town that will steal your heart and leave you yearning for more!

For other foodie adventures around the UK, feel free to check out:

• a love letter to Shetland I wrote after visiting to explore their food culture;
• a foodie adventure around Edinburgh, exploring the Scottish capital with haggis, whisky, and all the greats of Scottish cuisine;
• a delectable food and whisky pairing hosted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Planning your trip to Cheltenham

1. How to get to Cheltenham?

• Cheltenham Spa Station is accessible from London Paddington on GWR, which only takes 2 hours with no changes.
• There are also direct trains to Cheltenham Spa from if you’re coming from Manchester Picadilly (2 hr) and Birmingham New Street (45 min).
• For all available trains into Cheltenham Spa

2. Ideas for things to do in Cheltenham and best places to eat in Cheltenham

• Join the Regency Cycle Trail with Compass Holidays and see the historic town on 2-wheels!
• Explore Cheltenham on a self-guided 90-minute audio tour of historic Cheltenham town at your own pace! For only 5.56 GBP / 7 USD, you get a Blue Badge tourist guide accessible any time through an easy app. Click for your self-guided tour of Cheltenham!
• For something a little funner and different, go on a scavenger hunt through town and explore Cheltenham that way! Great for groups and families!
• Stroll around town and enjoy the variety of street art and sculptures!
• Soak in the waters at Cheltenham’s spas – the Greenway Hotel & Spa and the DoubleTree by Hilton Cheltenham are considered the best!

Cheltenham also has a variety of afternoon tea services, which is on point for Regency Cheltenham. I wanted to go and enjoy afternoon tea, but alas – other food called 😉

• The Queen’s Hotel, The Regency Tea Rooms, Malmaison, Once Upon a Tea Room, and No. 131 Restaurants are the afternoon tea in Cheltenham that came up most during my research.
• Or, for a completely different spin on afternoon tea, (for you sushi lovers) Kibou has a Japanese-inspired afternoon tea that I really wanted to try! But alas, next time.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

• Link
• Mail
• Instagram
• Facebook

3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m no stranger to sleeper trains or overnight travel, having often slingshot my way across Europe using a complex and random combination of overnight trains and buses. Of course there were also the (slightly miserable) ones in Southeast Asia, slowly bouncing along at night from Bangkok to Laos, where you felt the tug and pull of the train every time it thought it could. But that was then, this is now. So sit back, relax, and let’s chug along together on this overnight train adventure!

Welcome to the Caledonian Sleeper, your sleeper train to the Highlands.

1. Introducing the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper is the only sleeper train to Scotland and is a true gem of British travel. Whether you’re heading up to Scotland for business or pleasure, the Caledonian Sleeper is both luxurious and convenient – two factors that often make the best journey. It has cozy private cabins and individual seats (something for everyone!), delicious dining options (both room service and in the club car / lounge car), and stunning views of the English and Scottish countryside.

From London Euston at night, the Caledonian Sleeper connects you to one of these great places in Scotland:

• Edinburgh Waverley
• Glasgow Central
• Inverness: includes stops in Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore
• Fort William
• and Aberdeen.

(accessible room shown above)

For the purposes of this post, I am writing with London as the starting point. This trip can also be done in reverse – from any of those 5 locations in Scotland, down to London in the morning.

There are a few different options for seats / accommodations on board the Caledonian Sleeper. Both seats and cabins have accessible options for those who may need it. Train tickets for accessible rooms and seats can now be booked online!

Prices for the Caledonian Sleeper depend on the actual route you’re taking (some are longer than others) and how early you book your tickets, so with all things, planning ahead is always better!

• Comfort Seats start from 50 GBP,
• Classic Rooms from 175 GBP for Solo or 205 GBP for Shared,
• Club Rooms from 235 GBP for Solo and 290 GBP for Shared, and
• Caledonian Doubles from 345 GBP for Solo and 410 GBP for Shared.

(Hooray for pricing that doesn’t include a single supplement!)

These prices are for a one-way journey. If you want a round trip, simply book two one-ways. There are no cost savings with booking a return journey.

– Complimentary Sleep Kit and Amenities Bag (Double Only)

The complimentary Sleep Kit, which comes with all reservations, includes an eye mask and ear plugs. The additional pouch with Arran Sense of Scotland amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, lip balm, anti-bacterial gel and hand cream) are included in Caledonian Double.

– Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?

The short answer: if you’re 2 people – definitely yes! If you’re 1 person, I still say yes – even if you want to get a cabin.

Normally, I travel between London and Glasgow on the Avanti West Coast train. On average, it costs 100 GBP one-way and takes 4.5 hours. When you take into consideration a hotel room either in Glasgow (100 GBP) or London (200+ GBP), the cost justification becomes a little easier.

• To compare, on average, the Classic Room on this route costs 210 GBP and will take between 8-10 hours. But, you’ve moved from A to B in your sleep and you can start your day in a new city!

Additionally, according to a 2021 Rail & Transit Study, taking the overnight train to Scotland instead of flying reduces the carbon footprint by almost 90%!

• the study was based on a domestic UK flight between London and Inverness, and one hotel stay;
• Total kgCO2/ep for Flight & Hotel: 288.9
• Total kgCO2/ep for Caledonian Sleeper: 33

So, taking the sleeper train is an environmentally friendly way to travel between London and Scotland!

2. The new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston

Prior to my near-midnight departure from London Euston, guests in Caledonian Club Room and Caledonian Double Rooms are invited to relax in the new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston. If you’re heading to Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can access the lounge starting from 20:45, basically after the passengers for the Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness train are fully boarded onto their train.

The new lounge, just opened in 2024 is located on Platform 1, right next to where you’ll board the train. With comfortable seats, free drinks and snacks available (hot foods and alcohol available for a fee), and clean, shower facilities, what’s not to enjoy about the lounge?

For me, it had been a long day, so a shower was a must. Yes, I have a shower inside my Caledonian Double Suite, but a stationary shower is better than one where you’re balancing with the motion of the railway tracks! And boy, after a long day, there is nothing better than a shower!

Just ask the lounge attendant for a towel. The showers are equipped with Arran Sense of Scotland shampoo and body wash.

💡Expert tips on showering in the Euston Guest Lounge:

• I always travel with a pair of flip-flops, and I’m glad I had them with me! There was no bath mat available yet.
• There are also no hair dryers yet, so either ask for an extra towel in the beginning or use your bath towel to towel dry your hair.
• There is a heated towel rack in the cubicle.
• While there is room in the shower cubicle for my small luggage and backpack, I continuously had to maneuver around to grab things out of my luggage that I needed. Smartly pack your bag in advance to accommodate this!

The Euston Guest Lounge is brand new in 2024, and it was already a relaxing way to start my journey. I didn’t opt for a pre-boarding meal, but I spotted a few folks enjoying the haggis, neeps and tatties. It looked great!

For more details on lounge access:

• Euston Guest Lounge
• Other stations

3. Boarding the Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re in the lounge, an announcement will be made when its time to board. But if you’re not in the lounge, the sign boards in London Euston station will let you know when boarding begins. The Caledonian Sleeper departs from Platform 1, which is on the very right end of the station.

The carriages are in order depending on where /when you depart the train. There are train attendants along the way to show you the way, and to check you in once you arrive at the right carriage. They’ll tell you that your room (if you had one) is unlocked and the key is found inside it.

And while it’s not mandatory by any means, might I suggest plopping down on your bed for an obligatory comfy selfie as you settle in and relax for your overnight train journey ahead!

4. Food and Drink options on the luxury sleeper train to Scotland

Honestly, who would I be if I didn’t devote a mini section to the food and drink?

The food and drinks available on the Caledonian Sleeper differ depending on which route you’re taking – Edinburgh and Glasgow routes enjoy the Lowlander menu, whereas Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William guests will have the Highlander menu. I took a quick peak at both of them, and don’t worry – no matter if you’re traveling the Lowlander or Highlander route, whisky, haggis, and Irn Bru are on both menus, so rest assured – you can try all 3 and become an Honorary Scot!

Traveling on the Caledonian Sleeper during the summer time means that sunrise is earlier, and you’ll get incredible views while you enjoy your breakfast.

If you’re in the Caledonian Double (first class) or the Club Room, breakfast is included in your ticket, which can be eaten in the Club Car or served in your room. Note the final breakfast service times at the bottom. For most destinations, you’ll need to be served before 7 am (except Fort William and Inverness), so if you’re not an early bird, set an alarm so you won’t miss breakfast! Hang your breakfast order on the door within 30 minutes after departure.

There is also an in-seat / room service dining menu available for Classic Room and Seated Coach travelers.

– Limited Edition Caledonian Sleeper Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Annandale Distillery

2023 marks the 150th Anniversary of the Caledonian Sleeper train, and boy are they celebrating in style! In collaboration with Annandale Distillery, a Lowland scotch whisky distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, Caledonian Sleeper has just released an exclusive Caledonian Sleeper Whisky on a limited run of 200 bottles. Matured for 8 years in an American oak ex-bourbon cask, this single cask whisky is bottled at 50% ABV.

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A post shared by Caledonian Sleeper (@caledoniansleeper)

According to the press release, the Caledonian Sleeper whisky,

“offers hints of creamy sweet toffee combined with the crisp flavours of ripe granny smith apples and conference pears.”

-Annandale Distillery

Commemorate your trip by purchasing a 5cl bottle (with exclusive Caledonian Sleeper labeling) to enjoy as a nightcap or a future souvenir.

Sales of the Caledonian Sleeper limited release single cask whisky will benefit Railway Children, an international charity working with street children, and a bottle will be auctioned off with proceeds benefiting Give a Dog a Bone, a Scottish loneliness and animal charity.

To find out more about the Caledonian Sleeper whisky and to book your journey,

5. Caledonian Sleeper First Class Review – my true life experience

I am writing this section at 05:30 from an empty Club Car, as the train sits at Edinburgh Waverley station waiting for our Edinburgh passengers to alight. It’s my first trip on the Caledonian Sleeper

The train normally departs London Euston past 23:00 but there were some planned engineering works on the tracks, so our departure time was earlier than normal. By the time I fell asleep around 22:30, we hadn’t really left the greater London area yet. We chugged along for a bit and then stopped for quite some time. I don’t know why, but I was waiting for the excitement of a moving train before going to bed. Sometimes we can be a bit silly, I guess.

I read online that the Club Car can get rowdy and busy at night, and due to limited seating, you should hurry up and rush there to grab a table. Passengers staying in a room have access to the Club Car, with those in Caledonian Doubles having priority access. And as soon as I got settled in my cabin, I went down to the Club Car. Over the next hour, only a handful of people used the Club Car – a lady was dining, two gentlemen were having a drink, and another gentleman was sitting reading on his iPad. Maybe I just boarded a train full of introverts, which is fine by me.

So now that I’ve done the Club Car, it’s time for me to shower and head to bed. Towels are provided in a big pouch hanging on the door.

Although it’s small, I’m grateful for the en-suite bathroom and shower. I didn’t expect the shower pressure to be anything to write home about, and it definitely isn’t. For people thinking about washing their hair, think twice. The water pressure on my train was definitely not strong enough to rinse shampoo out of your hair.

The toilet basin has a big wooden cover with a handle, so you really only lift up the cover when using the toilet. There is a little nook inside that stores the toilet paper, so nothing gets wet when you shower.

Be careful, the lock on the door latch juts out, and maybe I bumped into it while showering.

Regardless of if you have a toilet and shower in your cabin, all cabins include a sink and basin for brushing your teeth and washing your face.

In the cabin itself, the bed made up the majority of the room. My luggage went under the bed, which left me with a small standing area / walkway between the door and the sink. For me, a somewhat clumsy but petite person, I bumped and knocked myself along the walls as I changed into my pajamas.

I dimmed the lights and began to settle in bed, but I quickly got up to grab the eye mask from the complimentary sleep kit and put it on. Various emergency buttons emit light in the cabin, and this gal enjoys complete darkness in sleep.

When my alarm woke me at 04:00 (don’t ask), I had slept better than any overnight journey in memory. Although I remember feeling the train moving in my sleep, it didn’t feel disruptive but rather a gentle lulling. And that brings me to now, 05:30 am, in the Club Car enjoying my bacon roll breakfast by myself.

Don’t let my simple bacon roll with its tongue sticking out dissuade you from choosing a simpler breakfast versus the full Scottish. Sometimes a bacon roll with a smidge of brown sauce is all I need to start my day in Scotland right!

After my breakfast roll, there was plenty of time to hang out in my cabin as we made the final leg of the journey between Edinburgh and Glasgow. The majority of the journey was completed under the cover of night. As dawn was about to break, I opened the window blinds for some light and some views. By then, the countryside was already in the distance, and I was left with urban views to finish off the evening’s journey.

6. Parting Thoughts on my overnight train to Scotland

All in all, I was happier with this train ride than I thought I would be! I’ll be honest that I had been eyeing this overnight train for a long time, but each time I’d see the 2-300+ GBP price tag per room, it would stop me in my tracks. But in reality, I never spent the time to think about how much money I would save with one less hotel night in Glasgow/London. So in the end, for a solo traveler, it isn’t too bad!

The double bed was very luxurious for the train, when you’d normally only have a bunk bed. I don’t think I need the first class Caledonian Double every time, but for my first time, it was a nice splurge.

However, I do think you need to set your expectations for what a “luxury overnight train” should be. In a different time and place, luxury train travel would include caviar, afternoon tea services, and glamour that oozes affluence and class like James Bond. While the Caledonian Sleeper isn’t all that, it’s still very nice and a wonderfully comfortable journey!

Since my first time on the Caledonian Sleeper, I’ve have used this overnight train service a number of times, in both the Club Room (bunk beds) and the Double Room. While the Double Room is definitely more luxurious with the big bed and no second bunk hanging over you, the Club Room is still a very comfortable overnight train experience.

While I’ve heard people complain about the top bunk being hard to access with a moving train, I just have to remind folks that this is indeed a moving train. People with mobility issues should not attempt to mess around with the top bunk, as the train’s motions on the train tracks aren’t guaranteed to be seemless. Think of it as turbulence on the rails, and something you need to be careful of.

Similarly, that also means the train rocks and sways as you sleep as well. Light sleepers may be bothered by this, and while this is still a comfortable journey, it’s definitely not the same as sleeping in your own bed. I just want to manage expectations, because the Caledonian Sleeper is a truly fantastic overnight train.

Also, for those wanting to take advantage of the stunning views of the countryside, be aware that outside of summer months, the nights are dark and long. If you’re only traveling between London and Glasgow / Edinburgh (the Lowlands), expect to arrive in Scotland still under the cover of night. If you’re headed all the way up to the Highlands, you may catch a glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise before you disembark.

Taking the train in the summer with the increased daylight hours really only make the journey more stunning, especially those traveling on the Highland lines up north. You’ll be able to enjoy the beautiful highland landscape with your morning coffee and breakfast.

Whether you opt for a simple seat, a Classic Room (bunk beds, no toilet/shower), a Club Room (bunk beds, with en-suite), or a Double Room (big bed, with en-suite facilities), there is something for everyone’s budget and sensibilities.

And with that, my Caledonian Sleeper review comes to a close. And I bid you adieu!

I hope you found my review of Caledonian Sleeper to be helpful. It truly is the best (and only) sleeper train to the Highlands from London. I’ve included some itinerary suggestions and a detailed frequently asked questions below in case my write up didn’t touch upon some of your questions.

To book the amazing Caledonian Sleeper, visit www.sleeper.scot.

7. Ideas for your Scottish adventure?

Now that you’ve decided on taking the sleeper train to Scotland, let’s plan your Scottish adventure!

• First things first – if you’re traveling to Scotland as an Outlander fan, look no further. I’ve written all about the Outlander filming locations you can visit, with public transpo directions or tours you can take. Step through the stones to Lallybroch or Castle Leoch during your trip!
• In Edinburgh, don’t miss:
  • visiting Holyrood Palace, the Scottish home of the British monarch,
  • get introduced to Scottish food on a delicious food tour;
  • enjoy the National Galleries of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
  • take a tour of the Water of Leith and Dean Village (shown above).
• In Glasgow, be sure to check out Glasgow Cathedral, the necropolis, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
  • Be sure to immerse yourself in some whisky, with a visit to Glengoyne Distillery! You’ll be surprised how quickly you got out of the city and into highland heaven!
  • Take a day trip to Oban (seafood capital of Scotland) and Glencoe on a Highland lochs and castles tour!
• In the Highlands and Islands,
  • Need a hotel recommendation for Inverness? How about staying at Ness Walk, a 5 ⭐️ luxury hotel that recently won the Most Romantic Hotel in the UK❣️ I’ll be designing a foodie itinerary for Inverness in collaboration with Ness Walk, so stay tuned for that!
  • Balmoral (and the Cairngorms National Park) is one of my favorite places to go and unwind;
  • set out on the North Coast 500 for some spectacular scenery!
  • go further afield with a day trip to Orkney!
  • Use the Scottish Islands Passport for ideas and to help plan your adventure!
• Last but not least recommendation: here is a carefully curated list of the best seafood in Scotland.

8. FAQ for the Caledonian Sleeper

• Is this the only overnight train in the UK? No, aside from the Caledonian Sleeper, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs overnight train services between London and Cornwall.
• How much luggage can I bring with me? Each guest can bring 3 items of personal luggage on board for free – two suitcases (no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm / 11.8 in x 27.6 in x 35.4 in) plus one item of hand luggage.
  • If you have larger items, let the on-board teams know and they can store it separately.
  • There is space under the bed for your suitcases. If you are staying in the Club Room or Caledonian Double, do not put your luggage in the en-suite bathroom, because if it falls it can block the door from opening.
• How much is the Caledonian Sleeper family ticket? Family ticket prices depend on how many rooms are required per family, but there will always be a guaranteed bed for all travelers, including children. A quick check showed 2 adults, 2 children in 2 classic rooms, booked as a family ticket cost 450 GBP. But as noted above, prices vary depending on a number of factors. There are a handful of inter-connected rooms available for families.
• Is there a first class on the Caledonian Sleeper? Caledonian Double ticket-holders are considered in first class, which is why they have a big bed, receive the extra amenity kit and have priority seating in the Club Car.
• Is there lounge access before boarding? The guest lounge, similar to an airline’s first class lounge, is a good way to relax before your journey. Different stations have different lounge specs (some include showers, others share lounge space with other train lines, access to some depend on your ticket type). Get more information on the lounge and your access.
• Can I bring furry friends on board? Up to 2 pets can join you on board if you’ve reserved a room. Sorry, for those who booked seats only, your furry friend can’t join you. There is no ticket cost for your furry friend, but there will be an additional 30 GBP cleaning fee per room.
• Can I bring my bicycle on board? Yes you can! Bicycles don’t cost extra, but you will need to reserve a space for it during your booking. (whoops, forgot to? Don’t worry – just contact Guest Services and they will add the bicycle reservation to your booking).
• Technical stuff: Yes, there is Wi-Fi on board, but there are some sections of limited service. In each room and at the comfort seats, there are power outlets (and USB-A ports) for charging small devices.
• Shower, if I don’t have the en-suite: For those traveling in seated coach or class rooms (and do not have an en-suite shower), you can purchase Shower Tokens on board to access showers in Fort William, London Euston, and Inverness after you arrive. Towels come included!
• Left Luggage facilities: If you need to dump your luggage before or after your trip, there are left luggage facilities at London Euston, Glasgow Central, Glasgow Queen Street, Edinburgh Waverley, Inverness and Fort William for a fee.
• Railcard discounts? Certain National Railcard holders may receive discounts on their fare, depending on a few factors. Read up on the Railcard Discounts offered on Caledonian Sleeper.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In some of my normal fine dining “review” posts, I normally let the pictures speak for themselves.  However, there is a bit more to be said this time.  

The lighting in the restaurant was too dim for the newest of iPhones, so excuse the photo quality, but perhaps that in itself is foreshadowing.

1. Not given the option of a tasting menu

Typically, when I go to restaurants like Unalome, I am dining alone.  And while it may be unusual, this solo diner enjoys multi-course tasting menus. À la carte options are typically available, as well.  This time, when the menu was brought out, I was only given the à la carte menu.  Tables nearby had a trifold menu where I overheard diners discussing the vegetarian or normal tasting menu options.  However, my menu was only bifold giving me only à la carte options. 

Subsequent internet research confirmed my suspicions of a tri-fold menu, giving non-solo diners the option of the tasting menu.

I didn’t ask – I mistakenly assumed that the à la carte and tasting menu had the same items on it. However, when I ordered the tasting menu, there was a little surprise from my server, but also no additional effort to show me the tasting menu either.  

It’s also confusing that the à la carte menu says its 90£ per person, when the tasting menu is priced at 110£ pp. Why would the à la carte be charged per person?

2. Eating my tasting menu blind

Not having the menu was a real miss for me. I genuinely enjoy referring back to the menu and seeing if there were flavors that I overlooked in the first bite. It also took away from the built up excitement for the next course, as well.

I’m not sure if it’s the discomfort of a solo diner – I am all too familiar with this… Or that they were trying to give me space to enjoy my meal in peace.  Either way, I felt that the team spent less time explaining the nuances of each course to me.

Recall too, that I am eating these courses blind – having not received the menu… Later, I found a sample tasting menu online.  But in the moment, in the absence of a physical menu to refer to, the descriptions when the courses arrive should help to supplement that.  While I don’t expect the wait staff to explain every foam, every flower, or every puree in each course, I do hope for a little more explanation.  I overheard servers going into far more detail about each course and each item on the plate for other diners.

I tried to prompt my servers by asking questions as they checked on me, showing interest in the ingredients and hoping for more detail at the next course.  But, it didn’t quite work either.

3. I would’ve chosen different plating

Another thing that I found a little odd about my dining experience were the plating and cutlery (silverware) options provided.  It’s one of those things where if it’s done properly, you don’t think about it during your meal. But in reality, people spend effort in carefully and thoughtfully selecting the right bowl or plate for the particular dish.  My issue with this was that there were a few courses that were soupy or foamy in nature.  However, these were served in large, shallow pasta dishes (essentially).  It was really difficult to get the most out of your course in such a shallow dish.  

There was one course, where I really wanted a knife to cut the 2 small potatoes. Instead of a knife, I had a fork and a spoon (the rest of the dish was foamy and soupy). Not wanting to put a large chunk of potato into my mouth, I tried to carefully slice it with a fork and a spoon. There is no graceful way of doing this, and my spoon clamored down onto the plate with a thud both times I attempted this.

Luckily, it wasn’t just me. When nearby tables were served that course, I heard the familiar, loud thud as the spoon hit the plate.

4. Not the most creative dining experience

Besides the incredible food, part of the fun of fine dining experiences is the sheer creativity that chefs employ in imagining and creating their courses. Seeing how a chef can excite all your senses, not just taste, is what sets them apart in a league of their own.

However, 3 back-to-back courses were foamy and soupy. 

• The Orkney scallops had a white foam, along with pumpkin purée, pumpkin seed pesto, and maybe pickled pumpkin;
• Wild Perthshire Mushrooms, also had a white foam, a garlic soup, and two delicious but unknown sauces;
• North Sea Cod Loin with a white foam, and a cauliflower puree.

Don’t get me wrong, the flavors were rich and interesting, but the white foamy excitement of the Orkney scallops became a tired foam after the 3rd foam course.

5. Not paying homage to their food producers or sustainable food practices

“From our hand dived scallops to foraged cep mushrooms, we are passionate about sourcing the best ingredients, sustainably.”

I’m surprised to find this quote on their website, under the Sustainability section.

Part of the reason that I love the food experience in Scotland is this beautiful relationship between chef and food producers. Other restaurants have regaled me with tales of the farm that they get their fresh flowers from, or the fisherman that have supplied them with the freshest catch over the years. In some rare cases, I can even give you the name of the individual who hand dived the scallops on my plate. I mean, I did just travel to the end of the world to Shetland to meet the people behind the food there.

These are the stories that I live for in my food experience. The stories that humanize my food experience. To recognize the beauty and importance of every contribution in the local supply chain.

Even with the “Wild Perthshire Mushroom” course – I’d like to assume it was foraged in Perthshire’s big tree country, but even then, that’s an assumption. This would have been a good course to talk about sustainable food practices.

There are some restaurants that can weave these stories seamlessly throughout the dinner service without a second thought. And then, there are those restaurants that leave you guessing and scouring the internet for answers.

Parting Thoughts and lasting impressions on Unalome by Graeme Cheevers

Now at the end, I should start at the beginning.

Unalome (pronounced oon-a-lome) – the word itself is a Buddhist symbol which represents the winding path of life, which leads to an individual’s enlightenment.

As someone connected to the Buddhist community (I am not an actively practicing Buddhist), this symbol and its elegant representations feel misused as a brand name for a restaurant that doesn’t even explain its significance. To be honest, it feels almost as bad as backpackers in Bali or Bangkok who get this “cool” symbol tattooed on their body. But Unalome (the restaurant) has nothing to do with the symbol. They’ve just taken the word – the name. I’m fighting the urge to say that the name has been bluntly appropriated from Buddhist culture, with no regard to its meaning or significance.

Not knowing much about the chef’s culinary background, maybe Buddhism did inspire him to name a restaurant after a religious symbol… and if that’s the case, then PR needs to do a better job of communicating that.

A culturally sensitive person would not have began the restaurant introduction with the words, “Traditionally, a Buddhist symbol, Unalome…”. Let’s be very clear. It is not “traditionally” a symbol – it is a Buddhist symbol. Not traditionally, always. There is no other use for it other than Buddhist symbolism. Period.

(Plus, the symbol is an actual graphic shown above, not the name. Are we pretending that the name, Unalome, is the symbol?)

I am also cringing at the suggestion that naming the restaurant after a Buddhist concept has anything to do with the Japanese culture that inspired the menu. Not all Japanese are Buddhist, not all Buddhist are Japanese. And conceptually, Unalome (the symbol) is not a Japanese concept – it is Buddhist.

Can we please not mix and match Asian cultures and religions as we see fit?

As I went back through my photos and notes on this meal, I realized that my experience at Unalome was probably doomed from the start.

Not everyone has the blessing or fortune in life to always share great experiences with friends and family. I wasn’t able to have anyone join me for dinner that evening, and 98% of the time I am a solo diner. But this blurb, while trying to be inclusive, missed the mark. The shared experience of Unalome with your friends and family specifically excludes one demographic –

• Solo diners, i.e. ME.

By closing the menu blurb with the only reference to the meaning of the Unalome symbol (without explanation), you’ve diminished the symbol and a name to the punch line of your restaurant. When you are thanking me for joining you on this path to enlightenment, are you bowing at me with your hands in a praying position as well?

My dining experience at Unalome has nothing to do with enlightenment.

Sure, some dining experiences can be transcendental – but not this one.

To close, I would not pay 110£ in the future for a meal that left me confused and utterly disappointed, and reeling with twinges of cultural insensitivity.

Do yourself a favor and go around the corner in Finnieston to The Gannet, which is arguably a higher caliber meal in every respect. I haven’t written about my experiences at the Gannet because I’ve been busy this year, but The Gannet is everything that Unalome is currently not.

Or, if you’re looking for other fine dining experiences in Scotland that left outstanding impressions on me, check out:

• Inver Restaurants & Rooms – the only Michelin green star awarded restaurant in Scotland!
• Kinloch Lodge, award winning and tucked away on the Isle of Skye;
• A hidden gem in the Trossachs, Monachyle Mhor;
• The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – tasting the land and the sea;
• and, coming soon – The Glenturret Lalique – the only whisky distillery with one Michelin Star.

Thank you for reading my unpopular opinion of Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, and a special shout out to the Twitter community for their encouragement to write about my experience!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

As luck would have it, I met a group of foodies earlier this year from Taste of Shetland – the area’s regional food and drink organization. If you can imagine a group of foodies laughing and giggling over food, that was us. Since then, I have been planning a trip to Shetland to visit this unsung food destination to coincide with their annual Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival (held this year on October 22 – 23, 2022). Through the Food & Drink Festival, I reconnected with my friends and made new ones who also love food in Shetland! We spent countless hours talking (and eating) none other than Shetland’s finest produce.

L: Shetland food festival 2022 groupies, plus Chef Nick Nairn;
R: the placemat at No. 88 in Lerwick, showing the best example of proximity of suppliers I’ve ever witnessed.

During most of my stay in Shetland, I was volunteering at the festival, meaning that I only managed to nip away to try a few restaurants while there. In reality, that’s ok – because the food experience in Shetland is not limited to restaurants. Food culture is everywhere!

Outside the festival, the warmth of Shetland hospitality was never far from food (or family at that). Whether it was homemade dinners with Mary and her visiting family at Hayhoull Bed and Breakfast in Bigton, or chatting with Marian Armitage in Scatness over toasty beremeal bannocks fresh oot the oven with rhubarb jam, homemade food was always front and center, along with that jovial warmth Shetlanders seem to exude.

Before I continue, allow me to wax poetic about food tourism for a minute. You all may know that I enjoy experiencing a place through its food traditions. Oftentimes one of the first thing I do when visiting a new place, is go on a food tour. In other food tours I’ve taken, you bounce around a place eating from restaurants, hearing stories of the place and its food, and (maybe) visiting a food producer or a producer’s shop (like a cheesemaker or a cheese shop), sampling foods along the way. While there are no food tours in Shetland, this Scotland foodie was determined to experience Shetland with food at its forefront.

The World Food Travel Association defines food tourism as,

“the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”

And that’s exactly what I was looking for in Shetland.

Below is a short collection of 4 peerie (little) stories, each about a person in Shetland who have a direct impact on Shetland food, and have influenced my perception of food culture.

1. Respect and affection for the food

During the Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival, I was fortunate to attend a “lamb boning” Masterclass with Lauraine Manson from Shetland’s abbatoir (or slaughterhouse). While it was called lamb boning, what it really showcased was how to utilize a single lamb to feed a village.

Lauraine is tall and dressed in all black, besides the pop of color of her red fedora. We were in a red colored room, so actually, she matches the decor. She walked in with a lamb shaped cloth sack slung over her shoulder. As she took us through her life’s experience, Lauraine made thoughtful incisions and intentional cuts to the carcass. Each cut is done with care and respect for the animal whose body she works on.

She speaks a lot about her respect for the animals. You’ll probably never find her with a cleaver hacking away at anything. It’s disrespectful, she reminds us. Those animals gave their lives for your meal – we need to respect that.

Following the deboning, the shape of the carcass no longer resembles an animal, now closer to the meat we are used to handling.

With the meat carefully splayed over the table, Shetland-native and food writer Marian Armitage steps up. Armed with a simple concoction of couscous, breadcrumbs, apricots and parsley, Marian spreads the stuffing over the lamb. “There’s no accurate quantity [for the stuffing],” Marian says, and Lauraine agrees that there’s no need for that. But don’t forget a twist of the pepper grinder, some of Shetland’s very own sea salt, and maybe some extra cumin for good measure. With a ball of twine, Lauraine and Marian come together to tightly roll the lamb and tie it, ready to roast.

Lamb would have been prepared that way for large family gatherings or village weddings. Done this way, everyone would get a bit of meat, and the stuffing (infused with all the flavors from the lamb) would take care of the rest.

Unfortunately, they didn’t cook the lamb at the food and drink festival. Earlier in the year, Lauraine and Marian did the demonstration (and cooked the lamb) for the 2022 Royal Highland Show. And I bet it smelled and tasted like no other!

2. Food tourism in Shetland – a visit to Garths Croft Bressay

Through my research on food tourism in Shetland, I found Garth’s Croft – a sustainable agricultural holding, run by Chris Dyer, focusing on traditional and different heritage breeds of sheep, pigs and poultry. Shortlisted for the 2022 Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Food Tourism, Chris offers tours of his croft and around local Bressay. He also offers a variety of bespoke tours focusing on history and heritage of the surrounding areas.

Bressay is located a quick 7 minute ferry from the Lerwick pier on Mainland Shetland.

Most of the visitors to Garth’s Croft are “fiber community” enthusiasts – people who love wool and knitting.  Thanks to the internet, the undyed fleeces from his heritage Shetland sheep are sent from one far corner of the world to another.  The magic of the internet also gives Chris an avenue to offer Zoom tours of the croft.  It seems to work well, considering Shetland’s remote location and the effort involved in visiting.

I don’t think Chris sees himself as being part of “food tourism”. I can see the direct connection funnily enough, but as a trained archaeologist and historian who runs a sustainable agricultural holding… he needs a little convincing. I think that’s part of his humility though, for being recognized and nominated in a tourism category he never saw himself as part of.

Food tourism, agritourism, ecotourism – call it what you want. At the end of the day, my experience with Chris from Garth’s Croft is hands down one of the best tourism experiences I’ve ever had.

– Lannie, extremely opinionated travel extraordinaire

Croft is not a word that gets used often outside of Scotland, and to be fair, I wasn’t entirely sure about the nuances of what a croft includes. A “croft” is defined by the Oxford dictionary as:

• a small rented farm, especially one in Scotland,
• comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house (the croft house), and
• with a right of pasturage held in common with other such farms.

Traditionally, crofting brings us back to subsistence farming – raising livestock and growing crops intended to feed you and your family, normally without surplus. Nowadays, most crofters aren’t practicing subsistence farming only. That being said, Chris only raises enough livestock that he himself can manage. Turns out it’s a lot, but still.

The sheep interrupt us to grab a cuddle from Chris, or so it seems. In actuality, Dinky is coming around to eat some of the feed Chris has in his hands. Dinky, who was the runt of the litter, is “special”, Chris says, originally needing to be bottle fed at birth. It’s amusing watching the colorful sheep playfully vying for his attention. I watch in silence, smiling at the incredible detail I just witnessed – Chris giving Dinky a little affectionate scratch on the head, as Dinky eagerly eats everything out of his other hand.

When Chris began crofting, his motivation had less to do with raising sheep to feed and clothe the masses and more with bringing the heritage of the area back to the forefront. To explain, what drives Chris is that deep connection to the land. For the archaeologist and historian, it’s less about what breeds can maximize your yields at the sheep sales, but more – what breeds are traditional to this land? What breeds can we bring back to this land?

And so he set out repurposing his croft, as a tribute to the old ways, while blending it with new, sustainable practices. Building the first drystone square enclosure on Shetland in 1,000 years, Chris sectioned off a “plantiecrub” or a traditional kale yard next to the croft house. Yes, Chris is actually one of very few drystone masons on Shetland as well, mending the walls that snake around Bressay, neighboring Noss, and mainland Shetland.

Watch this video on YouTube.

(This is a great croft tour video on YouTube that Chris made.
Let’s just blame Shetland’s weather for me not taking as many photos or videos that day I was in Bressay.)

Back to the kale yard.  Historically, that’s what it did – it grew kale, potatoes (taaties / tatties), and other root vegetables.  Kale has been in Shetland since, at least, the 17^th century.  The drystone walls provide some cover to Shetland’s harsh weathers – but that’s ok, kale seems to thrive in the tumultuous weather. Back in the day, the kale would be in the enclosure with the family’s own “hoose taaties”.  Hoose taaties are… potatoes for the “hoose” (house).

Chris is proud that the croft can thrive with zero artificial fertilizer, preferring to use a variety of heritage pigs to naturally plow and fertizile plots of land to render it arable. To supplement the kale yard and to provide weather cover for other crops, there is the polycrub greenhouse – made from recycled salmon cages.  Inside, the polycrub houses the croft’s singular apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, along with other greens and produce hidden away from Shetland’s harsh weather. I say singular fruit trees, because that’s part of Chris’ mentality, isn’t it?  He doesn’t need an orchard full of apple trees, the one is enough to feed him and his family, with some left for the Bressay community.

Garth’s Croft is an exciting blend of old and new, going back to the days before globalization and mass production, using the land to feed and clothe your family unit.  For us travelers and dreamers, a visit to Garth’s Croft makes us ponder our own life and its excesses. While few of us will do what Chris did, and move to a remote corner of the world to live off the land, there is a genuine admiration and awe of those who do.  But to be able to not only live, but thrive in such an environment – it’s an extraordinary thing and takes an extraordinary person to do so.

To bring it back to food and food tourism and Garth’s Croft…  While I haven’t outright said just yet, you as my reader must know that all the livestock in the world will end up on someone’s table at some point in time. This is true in both mass production and small scale subsistence farming. And while we are looking at beautiful heritage sheep with colorful wool or pigs happily burrowing for worms, their purpose in the end is to feed us.

Although I never tasted any of the various meat products or fresh produce from Garth’s Croft, I have a feeling that all the thoughtful care and attention Chris pays would certainly resonate in the end-product. Have you heard the myth of Kobe beef in Japan? With its world famous, gorgeously marbled meats, true or not, the cows are said to regularly listen to Mozart and given massages. While the sheep from Garth’s Croft don’t listen to Mozart (that I know of!) and unfortunately get subjected to somewhat miserable Shetland weather, they appear to have an extremely fun-loving and sustainable environment to live in. 

The Shetland agricultural community thrives on sheep. Whether that’s for Shetland’s thick “ganseys” (sweaters or jumpers for the non-Shetland speakers), to sell to mainland farmers, or for purchase and slaughter in Shetland, the agricultural community resolves around sheep and their sales. Lamb, born in the spring, take about 6 months to grow and mature, and are ready by the fall.

The sheep sales in Shetland run between August to November, from 2-3 times a week. 3-4,000 sheep are sold each time, with Chris and Lauraine being critical components to and daily fixtures at the sales. The sheep sales are the lifeblood of the agricultural community in Shetland. Chris invited me to one of the sales, and I would have loved to attend if I weren’t so busy with the festival. But, always save something for next time!

People like Lauraine and Chris are critical contributions to the sheep industry on Shetland. Their humane and respectful treatment of animals and committment to sustainable farming practices must have a direct impact on the taste of the food – it’s inevitable.  The excitement of honest, humane food practices and the emphasis on traditional values brought me to Shetland to experience the taste of Shetland in person.

It was this complex, yet simple sustainable crofting approach to life and food production that I sought out in my travels to Shetland. And from that search, I found Garth’s Croft on Bressay.

* Other Heritage Tours with Garth’s Croft

Normally, visits to Garth’s Croft are combined with a trip to the Bressay Heritage Centre and Speldiburn Cafe, but alas – it was the dreaded Monday in off-season Scotland, where almost everything is closed. But don’t let that stop you – it didn’t hinder my experience with Chris that day. Following the morning at the croft, in the most torrential weather conditions, we set out in Bressay to explore croft ruins and an Iron Age broch.

Later on in the week, I spent a second day with Chris, almost entirely unrelated to food.  We went up through mainland Shetland to Yell (via another ferry) and onto Unst (via ferry), to the UK’s most northern part – basking in its rugged beauty and history dotting the land. 

From the remains of Viking longhouses in Sandwick to the construction site of its new space port (space port?  I know, right?!!), Chris’ enthusiasm for the land and its history was infectious.  Because you can only plan so much with island life, a serendipitous missing of a ferry led us to exploring the spectacular Breckon Sands beach in Yell. 

• ❤️ Shout out to these good folks on Unst: Final Checkout Café for the delightful white coffee and Skibhoul Bakery for your wonderful baked goods for our picnic.

Even though Viking or military history isn’t my strong suit, there are so many memorable things about that day.  I don’t know if it was the wild remoteness that hypnotized me, the picnic inside a (replica) Viking longhouse (I love a good picnic), or the fact that we were the two most northern people in all of the UK that day… it was windy and rainy at parts, but overall, filled with wonder and amazement.

More to come on this later!

3. Hospitality and Food in Shetland

During my time in Shetland, I was fortunate enough to be able to spend time with people and their families – a far cry from your average tourist experience. I wanted to share some of the warm memories centered around food that my hosts and their families left with me.

* With Mary in Bigton

There’s nothing like a freak internet and mobile blackout to bring people together.  The morning that I arrived on Shetland, unbeknownst to me, there was a blackout of all internet and cell services.  Everything (digital) came to a halt.  Luckily, people in the villages of rural Scotland are used to walking over to their neighbors for a blether. And in the village of Bigton, there was a lot of folks popping into Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast every so often to say hi to Mary (my hostess) and have a blether about the blackout. 

Through the course of the week on Shetland, I met and chatted and dined with Mary’s: daughter, granddaughter, niece, sisters, and other relatives that I met in a blur.  It was so fun hear them spiritedly catch up with each other, in the Shetland dialect, translated at times for my benefit.  And as someone who works abroad for most of the year, it tugged at my heart strings for the family not near me. 

What lovely family moments, chatting away over a roasting peat fire, often talking and laughing well into the night. 

Before I ran off to the ferry, I sat down for one last meal with Mary, her daughter, and granddaughter.  A simple vegetable soup with lamb.  As Mary’s daughter explained to her daughter, “Granny’s mum made this soup for me and now granny is now making this soup for you.”  And just like that, I was brought into the fold of Mary’s mothers’ vegetable soup with lamb, keeping me warm as I left Shetland.

* Scatness with Marian

If ever there were any singular person who is Shetland food’s greatest ambassador and quintessential expert, that would be Marian Armitage. 

Marian, a local Shetlander who now splits her time between London and Shetland, dreamt of being a cookery school teacher at age 12. Now, with two books out, she is the go-to-resource on Shetland’s food and traditional recipes.

I spent my last morning in Shetland in the village of Scatness with Marian.  When I walked into her kitchen, a charming throwback to country kitchens, it felt cozy, adorable, and oddly familiar. A quick glance to the stack of cooking books on the table revealed Marian’s first book – Shetland Food and Cooking – with her iconic kitchen immortalized on the cover.

That morning, Marian was expecting her old neighbors from Lerwick to stop by, and set about to bake some fresh beremeal bannocks for her guests. By the time I arrived, they were just coming out of the oven. Perfect timing, I love a freshly baked good.

There’s something about the smells of a kitchen that’s just baked something fresh, isn’t there?

She instinctively grabs a bannock, slathers some Shetland butter on it, and asks me to taste it. “Is it done?” she asks. Of course the bannocks are done, and absolutely perfect from my perspective. Warm and thick, with deliciously melted butter dripping off the edges. “We’ll have it with some rhubarb jam in a minute.” (homemade, obviously)

As we walk into the conservatory overlooking the wild sea, we reminisce about Orkney and our visit to Barony Mill, where the beremeal flour she’s using was milled. Bere is an ancient barley, which dates back to the 8th century. A darker grain, and slightly bitter – making the bannocks a hearty affair. Like Shetland, I suppose.

Marian and I spoke at length about her love of Shetland and its food traditions, and the deep drive she has to share it with people. I didn’t realize the depths of that passion at the time, but I do now. I get it. As she so beautifully describes in her first book:

“What is special about Shetland is the people who live there and their relationship and interaction with the surrounding sea and land. They are interesting, interested, unique, skilled and outward thinking. They are influenced by the past and in many instances the old ways.”

– Marian Armitage, from Shetland Food and Cooking.

But it’s the strength of the relationships that Shetlanders have with each other too, that enhances the experience with food. And in all honesty, the bannocks and rhubarb jam tasted better with the company of Marian, Marian’s husband, James, her old neighbor from Lerwick, and his friend.

And once again, the familiar embrace of Shetland warmth and hospitality and food.

4. Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you all can see, this was a very moving trip for me. The connection between the food, the land, the people, the sea, and the animals is so thoughtful and vibrant, and really, such an exciting thing to experience. I really wasn’t prepared for all the ways that Shetland’s food opened my eyes into their world. Aside from the taste of the food itself, no regional cuisine has given me so much to think about.

But isn’t that what travel is supposed to do for us? Give us a moment to pause, reflect, and consider a different way of life? I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that with globalization and mass production, it’s simply easier (and unfortunately cheaper) to just go to the grocery store to buy your clementines from Spain or your pears from Chile. Many people don’t have easy access to farm-to-table or local produce options.

But that being said, this is a food and travel blog. I write this in hopes of influencing conscious decisions about food choices when you travel:

• Intentional support of local businesses.
• Seeking out ethical and sustainable businesses.
• Finding experiences that go beyond the norm.
• Meeting and embracing the local community.

Those are the things that fill your heart with memories after you return.

I’m reminded of an Anthony Bourdain quote,

“Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that were charming and interesting and intoxicating to me. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.“

And with that, I sincerely thank Shetland for the perfect meal it served me.

5. Shetland Post Resources

• Chris from Garth’s Croft on Bressay – the reluctant food tourism hero of Bressay, promoting heritage and sustainable agriculture in Shetland;

• Link
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Mail

• Where I stayed in Shetland: Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast in Bigton – 25 minutes drive from Lerwick and right next to St. Ninian’s Isle. I think you know I had an absolutely wonderful stay here!

• Link
• Facebook
• Mail

• Marian Armitage’s Shetland books – Food Made in Shetland (just released in 2022!) and Shetland Food and Cooking. If you’re wanting to learn more about the food, these books from Marian are essential for any foodie and home cook! They’re filled with traditional Shetland recipes and great photos to salivate over.

• Link
• Instagram
• Amazon

Getting to Shetland by Air

There are regular direct flights to Sumburgh Airport on Loganair from:

• Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Kirkwall (Orkney) in Scotland;
• London City and Manchester in England;
• Bergen, Norway, in the summer.

Getting to Shetland by Ferry

Take the 12-14 hour overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. On M, W, F, the ferry also stops in Orkney, so there’s an extra 2 hours for all the Orkney passengers and goods to join / disembark.

Most Shetlanders think the “pods” on the ship are miserable for such a long sailing. Though pricey, getting a room is highly recommended!

For those who get sea sick… off season North Sea overnight ferries are not your friend!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Before you visit Holyrood Palace, a little royal history!

There aren’t too many palaces in Scotland, but the Palace of the Holyroodhouse is the official residence of the British Monarch in Scotland. The Royal Collection Trust administers the palace, also known as Holyroodhouse, and is normally open to visitors. When the King is in residence, Holyrood Palace remains closed to tourists.

Even though the palace itself is relatively modern, it sits on the grounds of the old Holyrood Abbey, founded in 1128 by King David I. The name Holyrood, basically means “Holy Cross”. In the old Scots language, “rood” is the word for the cross in which Jesus was crucified.

I mean, you really can’t visit Holyrood Palace without knowing what the name in Scots mean, right?

By the 15th century, the guesthouse of the abbey was converted into a royal residence. Ruins of the old abbey are still on the grounds itself and is a beautiful reminder of a different time. The palace as we know it today dates back to the late 1600s, built to commemorate the restoration of Charles II’s reign.

You’ll also learn about the most famous resident (1561 – 1567) of Holyrood Palace Mary, Queen of Scots. The actual bedchambers of Mary, Queen of Scots is part of the visit. Apparently, the bedchambers are the “most famous room in Scotland.” Bold claim. Queen Mary’s private secretary, David Rizzio, was murdered in the supper chambers (adjacent to and part of the bedchamber). There is a plaque and a small red cross marking the location in the Audience Chamber.

This scene is depicted in the 2018 Mary Queen of Scots film. (Who has seen it???) I’m a sucker for historical movies and visiting their filming locations.

The Bonnie Prince Charlie (Charles Stuart) set up court at Holyrood Palace for only a few weeks, in 1745. During this time, he planned his next moves to take back the British crown for the Stuarts. Following his defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie subsequently retreated to Europe for the remainder of his life.

2. Photos of the Holyrood Abbey

I’ve introduced the Holyrood Abbey above, but there’s something about old ruins that are quite breathtaking. It’s a wonderful place to walk around.

3. Clarification on Balmoral vs. the Holyrood Palace

Since initially writing this article, many people shared their confusion over Holyrood Palace versus Balmoral being the King’s residence in Scotland. To clarify, Balmoral is the King’s private residence in Scotland. It was purchased privately by Prince Albert (Queen Victoria’s husband) in 1848, and passed down through the royal family.

The official residences of the British monarchy , which are owned by the Crown (owned by the British monarch, by virtue of their position as King or Queen) include:

• Buckingham Palace – official London residence
• Windsor Castle – official country residence
• Holyrood Palace – official Scottish residence
• Hillsborough Castle – official residence in Northern Ireland

Other places, like Balmoral or Sandringham House, are their private residences that are owned personally, and passed down within the family.

Hope that helps to clear up any confusion!

4. Information & FAQ on how to visit Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace is located in Edinburgh, at the bottom of the Royal Mile, opposite of the Scottish Parliament Building. At the other end of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle.

Can the public visit Holyrood Palace?

• YES absolutely, unless the King is in Residence. Previously, Queen Elizabeth normally stayed at Holyrood Palace during “Royal Week” in Scotland – from the end of June to the beginning of July. King Charles would likely keep this same tradition.
• As this is a working royal palace, there will be some unexpected closures.

When are the Holyrood Palace opening times?

• The Palace of Holyroodhouse is open Thursday to Sunday, from 9:30 am.
• Between 1 April – 31 October, the Palace of Holyroodhouse closes at 18:00.
• From 1 November – 31 March, the palace closes at 16:30.

Should I book tickets in advance?

• YES – you’ll need to book tickets in advance, with a specified time slot for entry, so visit their website for more information.

How much do Palace of Holyroodhouse tickets cost in 2022?

• Tickets currently costs 17.50 – 18.50 GBP for an adult ticket (depending on low/high season). This comes with a multimedia guide for a self-guided tour. The multimedia set includes stories and insights into the palace and its famous former residents.
• Families can save up to 15 GBP for booking directly with Palace of Holyrood House.
• The ticket to the Holyrood Palace also includes entrance to the Holyrood Abbey.

Expert COVID safety tip: bring your own earphones.

Are photos allowed at the Palace of Holyroodhouse?

• Photos are now allowed inside for non-commercial purposes, but was not when I visited! 🙂

Already know you want to re-visit the Holyrood Palace in the future?

• If you enjoyed Holyrood Palace, you can easily convert your ticket into a 1-year pass! Just let palace staff know on your way out. You’ll sign and date the ticket, while staff stamp it. You’ll then have a valid entrance ticket for the next year!

5. Parting Thoughts on the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh

Personally, I really enjoyed Holyrood Palace, primarily because of its long and rich history. I also felt that the audioguide was quite interesting, and well done. However, being in the bedchambers of Mary Queen of Scots, and knowing what happened to her private secretary there, was quite somber and very surreal.

And I loved walking around the ruins of the Holyrood Abbey. It’s incredible to think that it’s been there since the early 12th century. So much history has taken place on the ground of the Palace of the Holyrood House! For those history buffs or people simply interested in learning more, I’d highly recommend a visit to Holyrood House.

If you’re looking for other things to do in Edinburgh,

• explore Edinburgh culinarily, through a food tour;
• visit the National Gallery of Scotland or the National Portrait Gallery, which are both free!
• indulge yourself with a stay at 21212, formerly a Michelin-starred dining experience now focused on its 4-luxury rooms. With gorgeous Baroque and Georgian designs, it’s a lush stay – and only 15 minutes walk from the palace!

There’s a variety of tours all over Scotland you can take from Edinburgh:

• a 3-day tour to the Isle of Skye;
• visit Loch Ness, Inverness, and the Highlands over a 2-day tour;
• follow in the footsteps of Jamie and Claire on a 4-day Outlander tour.

Connect to Edinburgh from elsewhere in Scotland via ScotRail trains. Or, if you’re traveling to Scotland from London, what about going via an overnight sleeper train! Travel in comfort overnight on the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness, Fort William and Aberdeen! Be sure to check out my review of the journey!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/