I’m no stranger to sleeper trains or overnight travel, having often slingshot my way across Europe using a complex and random combination of overnight trains and buses. Of course there were also the (slightly miserable) ones in Southeast Asia, slowly bouncing along at night from Bangkok to Laos, where you felt the tug and pull of the train every time it thought it could. But that was then, this is now. So sit back, relax, and let’s chug along together on this overnight train adventure!

Welcome to the Caledonian Sleeper, your sleeper train to the Highlands.

1. Introducing the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper is the only sleeper train to Scotland and is a true gem of British travel. Whether you’re heading up to Scotland for business or pleasure, the Caledonian Sleeper is both luxurious and convenient – two factors that often make the best journey. It has cozy private cabins and individual seats (something for everyone!), delicious dining options (both room service and in the club car / lounge car), and stunning views of the English and Scottish countryside.

From London Euston at night, the Caledonian Sleeper connects you to one of these great places in Scotland:

• Edinburgh Waverley
• Glasgow Central
• Inverness: includes stops in Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore
• Fort William
• and Aberdeen.

(accessible room shown above)

For the purposes of this post, I am writing with London as the starting point. This trip can also be done in reverse – from any of those 5 locations in Scotland, down to London in the morning.

There are a few different options for seats / accommodations on board the Caledonian Sleeper. Both seats and cabins have accessible options for those who may need it. Train tickets for accessible rooms and seats can now be booked online!

Prices for the Caledonian Sleeper depend on the actual route you’re taking (some are longer than others) and how early you book your tickets, so with all things, planning ahead is always better!

• Comfort Seats start from 50 GBP,
• Classic Rooms from 175 GBP for Solo or 205 GBP for Shared,
• Club Rooms from 235 GBP for Solo and 290 GBP for Shared, and
• Caledonian Doubles from 345 GBP for Solo and 410 GBP for Shared.

(Hooray for pricing that doesn’t include a single supplement!)

These prices are for a one-way journey. If you want a round trip, simply book two one-ways. There are no cost savings with booking a return journey.

– Complimentary Sleep Kit and Amenities Bag (Double Only)

The complimentary Sleep Kit, which comes with all reservations, includes an eye mask and ear plugs. The additional pouch with Arran Sense of Scotland amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, lip balm, anti-bacterial gel and hand cream) are included in Caledonian Double.

– Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?

The short answer: if you’re 2 people – definitely yes! If you’re 1 person, I still say yes – even if you want to get a cabin.

Normally, I travel between London and Glasgow on the Avanti West Coast train. On average, it costs 100 GBP one-way and takes 4.5 hours. When you take into consideration a hotel room either in Glasgow (100 GBP) or London (200+ GBP), the cost justification becomes a little easier.

• To compare, on average, the Classic Room on this route costs 210 GBP and will take between 8-10 hours. But, you’ve moved from A to B in your sleep and you can start your day in a new city!

Additionally, according to a 2021 Rail & Transit Study, taking the overnight train to Scotland instead of flying reduces the carbon footprint by almost 90%!

• the study was based on a domestic UK flight between London and Inverness, and one hotel stay;
• Total kgCO2/ep for Flight & Hotel: 288.9
• Total kgCO2/ep for Caledonian Sleeper: 33

So, taking the sleeper train is an environmentally friendly way to travel between London and Scotland!

2. The new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston

Prior to my near-midnight departure from London Euston, guests in Caledonian Club Room and Caledonian Double Rooms are invited to relax in the new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston. If you’re heading to Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can access the lounge starting from 20:45, basically after the passengers for the Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness train are fully boarded onto their train.

The new lounge, just opened in 2024 is located on Platform 1, right next to where you’ll board the train. With comfortable seats, free drinks and snacks available (hot foods and alcohol available for a fee), and clean, shower facilities, what’s not to enjoy about the lounge?

For me, it had been a long day, so a shower was a must. Yes, I have a shower inside my Caledonian Double Suite, but a stationary shower is better than one where you’re balancing with the motion of the railway tracks! And boy, after a long day, there is nothing better than a shower!

Just ask the lounge attendant for a towel. The showers are equipped with Arran Sense of Scotland shampoo and body wash.

💡Expert tips on showering in the Euston Guest Lounge:

• I always travel with a pair of flip-flops, and I’m glad I had them with me! There was no bath mat available yet.
• There are also no hair dryers yet, so either ask for an extra towel in the beginning or use your bath towel to towel dry your hair.
• There is a heated towel rack in the cubicle.
• While there is room in the shower cubicle for my small luggage and backpack, I continuously had to maneuver around to grab things out of my luggage that I needed. Smartly pack your bag in advance to accommodate this!

The Euston Guest Lounge is brand new in 2024, and it was already a relaxing way to start my journey. I didn’t opt for a pre-boarding meal, but I spotted a few folks enjoying the haggis, neeps and tatties. It looked great!

For more details on lounge access:

• Euston Guest Lounge
• Other stations

3. Boarding the Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re in the lounge, an announcement will be made when its time to board. But if you’re not in the lounge, the sign boards in London Euston station will let you know when boarding begins. The Caledonian Sleeper departs from Platform 1, which is on the very right end of the station.

The carriages are in order depending on where /when you depart the train. There are train attendants along the way to show you the way, and to check you in once you arrive at the right carriage. They’ll tell you that your room (if you had one) is unlocked and the key is found inside it.

And while it’s not mandatory by any means, might I suggest plopping down on your bed for an obligatory comfy selfie as you settle in and relax for your overnight train journey ahead!

4. Food and Drink options on the luxury sleeper train to Scotland

Honestly, who would I be if I didn’t devote a mini section to the food and drink?

The food and drinks available on the Caledonian Sleeper differ depending on which route you’re taking – Edinburgh and Glasgow routes enjoy the Lowlander menu, whereas Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William guests will have the Highlander menu. I took a quick peak at both of them, and don’t worry – no matter if you’re traveling the Lowlander or Highlander route, whisky, haggis, and Irn Bru are on both menus, so rest assured – you can try all 3 and become an Honorary Scot!

Traveling on the Caledonian Sleeper during the summer time means that sunrise is earlier, and you’ll get incredible views while you enjoy your breakfast.

If you’re in the Caledonian Double (first class) or the Club Room, breakfast is included in your ticket, which can be eaten in the Club Car or served in your room. Note the final breakfast service times at the bottom. For most destinations, you’ll need to be served before 7 am (except Fort William and Inverness), so if you’re not an early bird, set an alarm so you won’t miss breakfast! Hang your breakfast order on the door within 30 minutes after departure.

There is also an in-seat / room service dining menu available for Classic Room and Seated Coach travelers.

– Limited Edition Caledonian Sleeper Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Annandale Distillery

2023 marks the 150th Anniversary of the Caledonian Sleeper train, and boy are they celebrating in style! In collaboration with Annandale Distillery, a Lowland scotch whisky distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, Caledonian Sleeper has just released an exclusive Caledonian Sleeper Whisky on a limited run of 200 bottles. Matured for 8 years in an American oak ex-bourbon cask, this single cask whisky is bottled at 50% ABV.

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A post shared by Caledonian Sleeper (@caledoniansleeper)

According to the press release, the Caledonian Sleeper whisky,

“offers hints of creamy sweet toffee combined with the crisp flavours of ripe granny smith apples and conference pears.”

-Annandale Distillery

Commemorate your trip by purchasing a 5cl bottle (with exclusive Caledonian Sleeper labeling) to enjoy as a nightcap or a future souvenir.

Sales of the Caledonian Sleeper limited release single cask whisky will benefit Railway Children, an international charity working with street children, and a bottle will be auctioned off with proceeds benefiting Give a Dog a Bone, a Scottish loneliness and animal charity.

To find out more about the Caledonian Sleeper whisky and to book your journey,

5. Caledonian Sleeper First Class Review – my true life experience

I am writing this section at 05:30 from an empty Club Car, as the train sits at Edinburgh Waverley station waiting for our Edinburgh passengers to alight. It’s my first trip on the Caledonian Sleeper

The train normally departs London Euston past 23:00 but there were some planned engineering works on the tracks, so our departure time was earlier than normal. By the time I fell asleep around 22:30, we hadn’t really left the greater London area yet. We chugged along for a bit and then stopped for quite some time. I don’t know why, but I was waiting for the excitement of a moving train before going to bed. Sometimes we can be a bit silly, I guess.

I read online that the Club Car can get rowdy and busy at night, and due to limited seating, you should hurry up and rush there to grab a table. Passengers staying in a room have access to the Club Car, with those in Caledonian Doubles having priority access. And as soon as I got settled in my cabin, I went down to the Club Car. Over the next hour, only a handful of people used the Club Car – a lady was dining, two gentlemen were having a drink, and another gentleman was sitting reading on his iPad. Maybe I just boarded a train full of introverts, which is fine by me.

So now that I’ve done the Club Car, it’s time for me to shower and head to bed. Towels are provided in a big pouch hanging on the door.

Although it’s small, I’m grateful for the en-suite bathroom and shower. I didn’t expect the shower pressure to be anything to write home about, and it definitely isn’t. For people thinking about washing their hair, think twice. The water pressure on my train was definitely not strong enough to rinse shampoo out of your hair.

The toilet basin has a big wooden cover with a handle, so you really only lift up the cover when using the toilet. There is a little nook inside that stores the toilet paper, so nothing gets wet when you shower.

Be careful, the lock on the door latch juts out, and maybe I bumped into it while showering.

Regardless of if you have a toilet and shower in your cabin, all cabins include a sink and basin for brushing your teeth and washing your face.

In the cabin itself, the bed made up the majority of the room. My luggage went under the bed, which left me with a small standing area / walkway between the door and the sink. For me, a somewhat clumsy but petite person, I bumped and knocked myself along the walls as I changed into my pajamas.

I dimmed the lights and began to settle in bed, but I quickly got up to grab the eye mask from the complimentary sleep kit and put it on. Various emergency buttons emit light in the cabin, and this gal enjoys complete darkness in sleep.

When my alarm woke me at 04:00 (don’t ask), I had slept better than any overnight journey in memory. Although I remember feeling the train moving in my sleep, it didn’t feel disruptive but rather a gentle lulling. And that brings me to now, 05:30 am, in the Club Car enjoying my bacon roll breakfast by myself.

Don’t let my simple bacon roll with its tongue sticking out dissuade you from choosing a simpler breakfast versus the full Scottish. Sometimes a bacon roll with a smidge of brown sauce is all I need to start my day in Scotland right!

After my breakfast roll, there was plenty of time to hang out in my cabin as we made the final leg of the journey between Edinburgh and Glasgow. The majority of the journey was completed under the cover of night. As dawn was about to break, I opened the window blinds for some light and some views. By then, the countryside was already in the distance, and I was left with urban views to finish off the evening’s journey.

6. Parting Thoughts on my overnight train to Scotland

All in all, I was happier with this train ride than I thought I would be! I’ll be honest that I had been eyeing this overnight train for a long time, but each time I’d see the 2-300+ GBP price tag per room, it would stop me in my tracks. But in reality, I never spent the time to think about how much money I would save with one less hotel night in Glasgow/London. So in the end, for a solo traveler, it isn’t too bad!

The double bed was very luxurious for the train, when you’d normally only have a bunk bed. I don’t think I need the first class Caledonian Double every time, but for my first time, it was a nice splurge.

However, I do think you need to set your expectations for what a “luxury overnight train” should be. In a different time and place, luxury train travel would include caviar, afternoon tea services, and glamour that oozes affluence and class like James Bond. While the Caledonian Sleeper isn’t all that, it’s still very nice and a wonderfully comfortable journey!

Since my first time on the Caledonian Sleeper, I’ve have used this overnight train service a number of times, in both the Club Room (bunk beds) and the Double Room. While the Double Room is definitely more luxurious with the big bed and no second bunk hanging over you, the Club Room is still a very comfortable overnight train experience.

While I’ve heard people complain about the top bunk being hard to access with a moving train, I just have to remind folks that this is indeed a moving train. People with mobility issues should not attempt to mess around with the top bunk, as the train’s motions on the train tracks aren’t guaranteed to be seemless. Think of it as turbulence on the rails, and something you need to be careful of.

Similarly, that also means the train rocks and sways as you sleep as well. Light sleepers may be bothered by this, and while this is still a comfortable journey, it’s definitely not the same as sleeping in your own bed. I just want to manage expectations, because the Caledonian Sleeper is a truly fantastic overnight train.

Also, for those wanting to take advantage of the stunning views of the countryside, be aware that outside of summer months, the nights are dark and long. If you’re only traveling between London and Glasgow / Edinburgh (the Lowlands), expect to arrive in Scotland still under the cover of night. If you’re headed all the way up to the Highlands, you may catch a glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise before you disembark.

Taking the train in the summer with the increased daylight hours really only make the journey more stunning, especially those traveling on the Highland lines up north. You’ll be able to enjoy the beautiful highland landscape with your morning coffee and breakfast.

Whether you opt for a simple seat, a Classic Room (bunk beds, no toilet/shower), a Club Room (bunk beds, with en-suite), or a Double Room (big bed, with en-suite facilities), there is something for everyone’s budget and sensibilities.

And with that, my Caledonian Sleeper review comes to a close. And I bid you adieu!

I hope you found my review of Caledonian Sleeper to be helpful. It truly is the best (and only) sleeper train to the Highlands from London. I’ve included some itinerary suggestions and a detailed frequently asked questions below in case my write up didn’t touch upon some of your questions.

To book the amazing Caledonian Sleeper, visit www.sleeper.scot.

7. Ideas for your Scottish adventure?

Now that you’ve decided on taking the sleeper train to Scotland, let’s plan your Scottish adventure!

• First things first – if you’re traveling to Scotland as an Outlander fan, look no further. I’ve written all about the Outlander filming locations you can visit, with public transpo directions or tours you can take. Step through the stones to Lallybroch or Castle Leoch during your trip!
• In Edinburgh, don’t miss:
  • visiting Holyrood Palace, the Scottish home of the British monarch,
  • get introduced to Scottish food on a delicious food tour;
  • enjoy the National Galleries of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
  • take a tour of the Water of Leith and Dean Village (shown above).
• In Glasgow, be sure to check out Glasgow Cathedral, the necropolis, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
  • Be sure to immerse yourself in some whisky, with a visit to Glengoyne Distillery! You’ll be surprised how quickly you got out of the city and into highland heaven!
  • Take a day trip to Oban (seafood capital of Scotland) and Glencoe on a Highland lochs and castles tour!
• In the Highlands and Islands,
  • Need a hotel recommendation for Inverness? How about staying at Ness Walk, a 5 ⭐️ luxury hotel that recently won the Most Romantic Hotel in the UK❣️ I’ll be designing a foodie itinerary for Inverness in collaboration with Ness Walk, so stay tuned for that!
  • Balmoral (and the Cairngorms National Park) is one of my favorite places to go and unwind;
  • set out on the North Coast 500 for some spectacular scenery!
  • go further afield with a day trip to Orkney!
  • Use the Scottish Islands Passport for ideas and to help plan your adventure!
• Last but not least recommendation: here is a carefully curated list of the best seafood in Scotland.

8. FAQ for the Caledonian Sleeper

• Is this the only overnight train in the UK? No, aside from the Caledonian Sleeper, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs overnight train services between London and Cornwall.
• How much luggage can I bring with me? Each guest can bring 3 items of personal luggage on board for free – two suitcases (no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm / 11.8 in x 27.6 in x 35.4 in) plus one item of hand luggage.
  • If you have larger items, let the on-board teams know and they can store it separately.
  • There is space under the bed for your suitcases. If you are staying in the Club Room or Caledonian Double, do not put your luggage in the en-suite bathroom, because if it falls it can block the door from opening.
• How much is the Caledonian Sleeper family ticket? Family ticket prices depend on how many rooms are required per family, but there will always be a guaranteed bed for all travelers, including children. A quick check showed 2 adults, 2 children in 2 classic rooms, booked as a family ticket cost 450 GBP. But as noted above, prices vary depending on a number of factors. There are a handful of inter-connected rooms available for families.
• Is there a first class on the Caledonian Sleeper? Caledonian Double ticket-holders are considered in first class, which is why they have a big bed, receive the extra amenity kit and have priority seating in the Club Car.
• Is there lounge access before boarding? The guest lounge, similar to an airline’s first class lounge, is a good way to relax before your journey. Different stations have different lounge specs (some include showers, others share lounge space with other train lines, access to some depend on your ticket type). Get more information on the lounge and your access.
• Can I bring furry friends on board? Up to 2 pets can join you on board if you’ve reserved a room. Sorry, for those who booked seats only, your furry friend can’t join you. There is no ticket cost for your furry friend, but there will be an additional 30 GBP cleaning fee per room.
• Can I bring my bicycle on board? Yes you can! Bicycles don’t cost extra, but you will need to reserve a space for it during your booking. (whoops, forgot to? Don’t worry – just contact Guest Services and they will add the bicycle reservation to your booking).
• Technical stuff: Yes, there is Wi-Fi on board, but there are some sections of limited service. In each room and at the comfort seats, there are power outlets (and USB-A ports) for charging small devices.
• Shower, if I don’t have the en-suite: For those traveling in seated coach or class rooms (and do not have an en-suite shower), you can purchase Shower Tokens on board to access showers in Fort William, London Euston, and Inverness after you arrive. Towels come included!
• Left Luggage facilities: If you need to dump your luggage before or after your trip, there are left luggage facilities at London Euston, Glasgow Central, Glasgow Queen Street, Edinburgh Waverley, Inverness and Fort William for a fee.
• Railcard discounts? Certain National Railcard holders may receive discounts on their fare, depending on a few factors. Read up on the Railcard Discounts offered on Caledonian Sleeper.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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Following from my last post, where we visited the epic operatic stage where James Bond & Mr. White meet in Quantum of Solace, let’s continue to chase 007 in and around Austria.  This next location brings us to Sölden – located in the Otzal Valley of the Austrian state of Tirol, high in the Austrian Alps. It apperas that James Bond loves Austria. We must share that in common.

During the winter months, Sölden is known for it’s skiing – and in the summer, mountain biking and hiking trails.  Everyone walking around town in the summer is carrying a bike or hiking sticks, and I presume ski poles replace those when it turns cold.

For the duration of this post, although Sölden is spelled with an umlaut over the o, I will refer to it as either Soelden or Solden.  All three are commonly used.  I am doing it because my keyboard does not have such a key and constantly copying and pasting one ö is silly…  Thank you for understanding!

1. James Bond filming location: 007 Elements in Spectre

Now.  Back to James. James Bond. 

In 2015’s Spectre, James travels to a health clinic in the Austrian Alps, to look for Mr. White’s daughter – Dr. Madeleine Swann.  She gets kidnapped and Bond pursues them in a prop plane that bursts through a farmhouse.

It is there that Q analyzes Mr. White’s ring, and they first realize the existence of Spectre.

The location of Dr. Swann’s clinic is actually ice Q, a restaurant located around 3,000 meters up in the Alps.

Gaislachkogl, the peak where ice Q and 007 Elements is located, is reachable by cable car or on foot from Solden.  ice Q’s modular, modernist design stands out from the alpine peaks surrounding it.

2. Visit 007 Elements

In July 2018, 007 Elements was unveiled in the building adjacent to ice Q, as a “cinematic installation” dedicated to the James Bond films.  I visited 007 Elements in the first few days after it opened. Being in July, you’d probably forget that it is actually really cold that high up. Most of the 007 Elements staff were wearing large winter parkas inside the exhibition.

Honestly, I would have appreciated if someone offered or warned me about how cold it would be inside the exhibit.  But, besides that, it was a fun exhibit, moving through various aspects of the films or the character.

Admission to 007 Elements is 22 EUR | $24 USD for adults, which does not include the cable car / gondola ticket.  With the round-trip gondola included, that increases to 49 EUR | $54 USD.  Of course, you can always hike from town up to Gaislachkogl – I know that people definitely do.  From my calculations, it should be about a 1,700 meter ascent…. So, either way, it will take money or effort to get to the top.

However, I think the price tag is a little steep for what it actually was.  For example, in the early movies, there was a ski pole gun that James used while skiing away from bad guys.  The ski pole gun is in the exhibit, but it’s not like you can play with it.  So looking at it from afar, while watching a clip of the scene where he uses the gun, is not super exciting.  It’s not 007 Elements’ fault – it’s just not that exciting to see it up close.

While you’re at the top, and since you’re spending boatloads of money anyway, you might as well stop in ice Q for a coffee and an apple strudel, with a view.

3. Parting Thoughts on this James Bond filming location

Part of what makes the James Bond movies so fun is the exotic filming locations. Imagining James Bond in the Alps and other far flung places gives your trip an exciting flair.

Visit 007 Elements if you’re a die hard James Bond fan.  For mediocre fans, it was fun, but was it worth chasing James Bond to the Alps? The scenery was stunning and makes it worthwhile!

If you’re thinking to visit Solden, you absolutely should! Solden is beautiful, and there’s lots to do in the vicinity besides 007 Elements. 

If you’re in the area, which I was, it’s worth it to stop by 007 Elements. However, it’s definitely not the main attraction of your stay in and around Otztal Valley.

For another James Bond filming location in Austria, check out my post on the Bregenz Festival!

4. Information to Visit 007 Elements

007 ELEMENTS | map
Otzal Valley, Austria
Daily 9:00 am to 3:30 pm

Phone: +43 (0) 5254 508 0
Email: 007elements@soelden.com

Online Tickets
Adult admission 22 EUR | $24 USD
Adult admission + gondola 49 EUR | $54 USD
Prices updated 22 December 2019

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The story begins with Italian developers in the late 1980s.  The Sheraton Resort was to be the crown jewel of the Cook Islands tourism industry and the island’s first 5-star resort.  With the resort almost 80% complete, construction stopped abruptly following allegations of mafia involvement and money laundering in Italy.  The Cook Islands government was left with $120 million in debt and almost bankrupted.  From talking to local Cook Islanders, this large debt would shape the trend of Cook Islanders immigrating to New Zealand that continues to this day.

From then, other people and companies tried developing and completing the property.  However, something always prevented the completion.  According to the rumor mill, old tribal rivalries led to the land being cursed and recently, re-cursed.  In this day and age, who knows whether curses are really true or not?

Today, the structure stands on a large, open property.  Instead of hotel guests, you’ll find company in a group of cows and goats roaming freely across the land.  Some locals do actually live on the property.  We understand that they struck a deal with the local government to stay there for free, in return for maintaining the lawn and the property.

I went with my tour friends, E and J. When we pulled up in E’s car, a woman greeted us and said it was 5 NZD to visit.  E and J were all about to prepare 5 NZD each, when I stuck out my arm to stop them. I didn’t say a word and handed the woman 5 NZD.  She took the money and then pointed where we could park the car.

E and J were a little stunned, but I later explained that this was not a sanctioned tourist site. It’s not like we are paying an advertised, public admission fee, which taxes on the fees would later be paid back to the Cook Islands government.  No no.  This was a woman, living in an abandoned property, and as part of her agreement to maintain the property, she can charge admission fees for whatever she wants.  I may be simplifying the scenario, but that was how I read it.  So remember, don’t always be so quick to take out your money!

In addition to the abandoned buildings, there is also what looks like a well-groomed BMX track.

Depending on how much you like poking through old, abandoned things, you could probably stay 20-30 minutes here, but probably not more than an hour.  If you’re in the area, and want to see something truly unique to the South Pacific, the Sheraton Cook Islands is for you.  (Incidentally, if you do the cross-island hike from N to S, you should cross through this toward the end…) 

However, if you want your image of Rarotonga to be an untainted, gorgeous paradise, then take a pass on this one.

Background information provided by:  The Guardian Newspaper

Thinkin’ about going?  PIN IT!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

When I was in Oaxaca in April, I visited Olvera’s restaurant, Criollo. Honestly, I wasn’t impressed with it.  However, having a weakness for tacos, and wanting to see what a world class restaurant was like, I made reservations for Pujol’s 1:30 pm taco omakase.  The reservations, made about a month in advance online, required a credit card number for a “guarantee” (in case I cancel..).

Location of Pujol

Pujol is in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City, on a side street (Tennyson) off of Masaryk.  It was a nice walk down the shopping street, Masaryk, where LV, Gucci, Ferragamo and Starbucks are.  I walked to Pujol from a morning visit to the Museo Nacional de Antropología, which was a nice 20-30 minute walk away, if you didn’t keep walking in circles like I did that day…  But I digress.

Nestled on an unassuming street, you may not notice the entrance to the restaurant.

Arrival to Pujol Mexico City

Once inside, they seated everyone with the 1:30 pm taco omakase at the bar.  Each course comes paired with a drink.  The price is the same with or without the pairing.  I’m not a big alcoholic beverage drinker, so as the post and the courses continue, you’ll see how my drinks fared.

Also, before I begin, a big shout out and thank you to Mike, the electrician from Houston, who was my taco tasting companion and source of conversation during the meal. 

2022 update: Mike, the electrician from Houston, googled Pujol in Mexico City and found my blog! He emailed to say hello and that he found my post. Got to love the power of the internet!

Without further ado… the Pujol 8-course Taco Omakase.

1. Street Snacks

For local Mexican diners, the baby corn came with the husk intact, and the Mexicans next to me ate the husk. I didn’t realize it was edible! For us foreigners, the husk is peeled back and we only eat the corn.

Before we move on from the street snacks amuse bouche… The little blue corn puff…  For those of you unfamiliar with escamol (the white toppings on the blue puff), it is a Mexican delicacy.  Some people may be squeamish about it, but escamol is the edible larvae and pupae of ants.  Yes, that’s right.  Ant eggs.  Before you say anything… let me just say one word.  DELICIOUS!!!!  Don’t knock it til you try it!

2. Uni, Beans Tetela

Inside the tetela was black beans. Served with a uni (sea urchin) pico de gallo.  The uni pico de gallo was AMAZING, both on the tetela and on its own.  My favorite course!!

For those of you new to my blog, I was particularly pleased at the uni dish being so delicious.  To find out why, see my other post about sea urchins, here.

Drink Check:

New addition: Atolli, Mexican Pale Ale.  Made from corn.  2 courses, 2 drinks.

3. Eggplant Taco, Hoja Santa, Humus, Shisho

I spy a new drink – white wine.

4. Amberjack Taco, Avocado, Seaweed

(served with Mexican sake)

5. Scallop Tostada

(Dressed with lemon, sesame oil, and served with tequila)

Thinly sliced raw scallops lined the crispy tortilla, resulting in a delightfully fresh and crisp tostada.  I’ve never had scallops or a tostada like this!!

More than half way through – let’s keep going on this taco omakase!

6. Seabass Taco al Pastor

7. Softshell Crab Taco, Cucumber, Shiso

I love soft shell crab and shiso peppers!!  And the combination in a taco was amazing!!  So delicious.  Definitely my second favorite course!

Drink Check:

From L to R, drinks for courses 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3.  Water on the very right.  In here there is: tequila, mezcal, sake, rose wine, another beer and white wine.  You can mostly guess which is which. However, since the liquors are all kinda clear colored, I kind of forgot.  You’ll forgive me though.

8. Enmolada, Hoja Santa Tortilla

And now, for Pujol’s famous Mole Madre, aged 1681 days, or almost 5 years!!  The flavor is much richer and tangier than the normal mole.  I’m not a huge fan of mole in general, so this one wasn’t spectacular to me.  It’s definitely unique, I’ll say that!  From the NY Times’ T Magazine,

“Pujol’s mole madre is a contemporary version of [celebratory dishes]. Our own paste is reheated twice a day and is ‘fed’ with new mole whenever we are down to 10 liters. This Solera system gives us a mole that is exponentially more subtle and complex than your average mole. Additionally, since the mole is getting reheated through the months, ‘it has now been alive for more than 400 days’ the recipe adapts to seasonality and the ingredients change accordingly. It might have hazelnut or almond or macadamia or a mix of all three. The same is true for the tomatoes, the fruits, even the chiles.”

Since that review, the mole madre I tried had continued to age another 1,200 some days!

And with that nugget of information, the taco omakase finished on a high note of the legendary aged mole.

Dessert in the Garden

After, we were escorted out to the garden area for dessert.  Enormously tall trees, surrounded by lovely greenery, kept us company during dessert. Delightfully charming outdoor area to enjoy our desserts. However, it was uncovered… and I understand that Mexico City is known for their notorious but reliable 5 -7 pm heavy rain showers (according to locals).

9. Gaznate, Sake Kasu

From L to R: a plum, a cream roll, matcha green tea, and ice cream (i forgot the flavor) with ginger. In the upper right corner is the cloth napkin from our omakase, with a corn kernel pattern on it. They said we could keep it as a memento. Nice touch.

Even though the photo and description above goes L to R, we ate it R to L… They suggested it this way.  Although the plum was good, I was quite disappointed that it was the end.  Especially since I could have had the below pictured cream roll as the last delicious sweet taste in my mouth. But no.  I was good at following instructions.

But just as my disappointment couldn’t be any greater, the wait staff shuffled out one by one. With Beauty and the Beast’s “Be Our Guest” playing in my head, out came the real dessert.  You can see the beginnings of that in the background of my plum photo above.

And now, here is the real dessert.

The thinnest, lightest, most delicious fried churro I’ve ever had!!!  This was definitely the best way to end the taco tasting… if it truly ended with the plum, this review would have gone sour at the end.  But no!  PUJOL’S TACO OMAKASE.  AMAZING TIL THE END.

Parting Thoughts on Pujol’s Taco Omakase

I HIGHLY recommend trying Pujol’s Taco Omakase, if you:

1. want to eat at a world class restaurant
2. like tacos
3. want to try world class tacos
4. don’t mind dropping 2,998 Pesos | $160 USD for 8 tacos and 8 drinks
5. like having 8 different alcoholic beverages in one sitting (or if you don’t drink alcohol, if you like having 8 different non-alcoholic beverages in one sitting… btw, alcohol or not, the cost is still 2,998 Pesos)
6. are not afraid to eat ant larvae/pupae or sea urchins
7. want a souvenir (used by yourself) cloth napkin… (and finally)
8. don’t mind spending 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm eating lunch
9. WANT TO EAT AN AMAZING MEAL!

Restaurant Information

Pujol | map
Tennyson 133, Polanco
11550 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Phone: +52 55 5545 4111
Reservations Required 
1:30 pm Taco Omakase 2,300 MXN | $115 USD
Prices, as of 20 April 2021

If using Uber, set the address to “133 Tennyson” (actual address), NOT “Pujol”, which will direct to their old location.

Need some help planning your foodie fun trip to Mexico City?

• Luxury hotel suggestions:
  • Hyatt Regency Polanco and JW Marriott Polanco are both within 10 minutes walking distance to Pujol!
  • Centrally located in the Reforma neighborhood, Hilton Mexico City Reforma and Mexico City Marriott Reforma Hotel are also fantastic options.
• More foodie adventure suggestions:
  • Check out the Must-Try Street Foods in Mexico City from Chef Denise, including all the favorites I had on this trip!
  • Instead of Pujol’s Taco Omakase, how about joining a Taco Crawl with a food critic?
  • Join Candelilla, Mexico City’s hidden supper club;
  • Experience a dinner exploring Mexico’s cuisine, from before and after Spanish colonization.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Keep Pujol Taco Omakase on your radar for later?

Ya, pin it for later

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Most tours and dinners include hotel pickup/drop off, which is really convenient.  If they don’t pick up on time, the island is a small circle.  Trust that they’ll be along shortly, because they always are.  (same with the bus!)  Everything is on island time.  So relax, sit back, and enjoy the awesome things to do and eat in Raro.

But first, if you haven’t read my post on Cook Islands food, I suggest you start there!

1. Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes

For my first full day in Rarotonga, I scheduled a BBQ Lunch and Lagoon Cruise with Captain Tama.  It was NZ$79 | $52 USD, which included snorkeling, lunch, a coconut demonstration and sarong show.  The ship was crewed and the tour hosted by a few, young Cook Islander men.  Good humored and full of fun, they took us out from Muri Beach to a beautiful area of blue seas for some snorkeling.  I went in for a bit, but it was a bit cloudy under the water from the current, and man… that current was insane!

Watch this video on YouTube.

After snorkeling, we headed back towards the Muri area, and docked off of an uninhabited island across from Muri. Captain Tama (and maybe another tour company) set up a small dining area with facilities on this island for use during the day.  The crew were busily getting lunch prepared, and were grilling fresh fish and bananas.

From the paw paw (papaya) up top and clockwise, grilled banana and grilled onions, fresh grilled mahi mahi, bread, cole slaw, potato salad, and a sliver of a coconut slice.

I won’t give much else away, but here are a few photos from their coconut demonstration.  No photos of the sarong show.  Why?  I was selected as the model for an introduction to how to tie sarongs or pareos.  shrug..

Really fun time with the crew that took us out that day.  It’s a warm welcome to the Cook Islands and an introduction to their fun loving personalities.

2. Progressive Dinner

After a few hours of rest and relaxation on my patio lounge chair, in the evening, I set out for what’s known as the Progressive Dinner (NZ$99 | $66 USD).  This is a dinner tour, where each of the three courses are eaten at a different family’s house.  Each course came with lots of stories and an introduction to their family and land.

It was a really busy night for the Progressive Dinner… there were probably close to 40 people there.  I guess that’s a bit unusual, and it’s normally a much smaller group, which is how I imagined it. 

At dinner, I met a nice Australian couple on their honeymoon, and an interesting retired New Zealander, Polly.  Polly has been coming to Raro since the mid-1990s, and lives for a few weeks or months there every year.  She’s been coming to the Progressive Dinners for at least the last 5+ years when she’s in Rarotonga, and she keeps coming for the great food and lovely people that host and take part in it.  I wish I talked to her more, because I think she must have great stories to tell.

Without further ado… the progressive dinner.

2.1 First Course

2.2 Second Course

What do you recognize on my plate from my earlier post, introducing food in the Cook Islands?

iSpy list:

• paw paw
• poke
• umu
• rukau

One of the best things to do in Rarotonga, in my book? Eat with friendly locals and hear their stories about life in the Cook Islands.

2.3 Third Course

Parting thoughts on the best things to do in Rarotonga

For my first full day on Rarotonga, not bad, right?  Captain Tama and the Progressive Dinner were both GREAT introductions to the warm and fun-loving spirit of the Cook Islanders. Definitely, if you’re looking for two of the best things to do in Rarotonga, consider Captain Tama’s Cruise and the Progressive Dinner. You won’t regret it!

– Useful Information –

• Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes – NZ$79 | $52 USD, daily, 11 – 3 pm.  Pick up, drop off, and lunch included
• Progressive Dinner – NZ$99 | $66 USD, Mondays and Thursdays, 5 – 9:30 pm.  Pick up and drop off included

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1.Staples of Cook Islands’ Food

1.1 Coconut

Let me begin by saying that the coconut is one of the most central aspects of Cook Islander cuisine, taking form in fresh coconut cream and milk, grated coconut, the “coconut marshmallow,” coconut juice from fresh nu, and of course, the coconut meat itself, usually eaten in sliced wedges.

1.2 Ika Mata

Raw fish and chopped vegetables in coconut cream and lime juice. Not to be confused with Hawaiian poke or Cook Islander poke…(and since I brought that up)

1.3 Cook Island poke

A looser, mochi-type tapioca concoction, usually made with local bananas and topped with fresh, grated coconut.  Not considered a dessert, and is served with the main dishes.  It also has nothing to do with raw fish, despite what you may have thought because of its name.  (Apologies for the awful photo of the poke – the lighting was really bad.  Plus, it’s not that photogenic of a dish anyway, usually a gelatinous blob in varying colors.  This one in purple, made from taro)

1.4 Paw paw

Papaya fruit (and/or local, firm bananas) with grated coconut in a coconut cream base.

1.5 Cassava (or tapioca) and arrowroot

Although cassava and arrowroot are different plants, they are similar in consistency. Both are of a starchy consistency, commonly used as thickeners. In Cook Islander cuisine, it’s mixed with local ingredients, in a variety of dishes, including the famous Coconut Delight.  From what I can gather, it is a mixture of grated coconut and cassava, which is then pan fried for crispiness.  The cassava gives it a chewiness, similar to mochi. Served at the Tuakata Cafe, a short walk from the bus terminal in town and down the street from the Office of the Prime Minister.

1.6 Umu

Traditional roasted chicken or pork, made by digging a hole and burying the food in an underground oven.

1.7 Rukau

Rukau, or “Cook island spinach”, is actually young taro leaves. They’re typically boiled and cooked in a cream sauce. The running joke that guides love to tell is …

Rukau has a lot of iron and helps men put lead in their pencils… if they have someone to write to.

Unlike other tourist or foodie destinations, there isn’t one specific restaurant that is known for their ika mata, paw paw, or umu.  That’s not quite how life works in the Cook Islands.  Instead, most tours include a traditional lunch, with ika mata, grilled fish, probably some poke, likely some umu, and a variety of coconuts and fruits.  All of the food I had on various tours and at dinner shows were all high quality and extremely fresh. So don’t worry! You’ll have amazing food, pretty much anywhere!

2. Places to Eat

If you have some spare meals in between your tours, here are a few places I would highly recommend to eat at.

2.1 The Muri Night Market

The Muri Night Market, is held…most* nights. (Sun, Tues, Wed, Thu). It starts around 5 pm, and be sure to get there early as vendors will stop once all their food is sold.  One of the famous stalls sells banoffee pie, which sadly was too aggressively large sized for me to try, being already full from umu and heavy coconut creams.  Other stalls have local Cook Islander fare… umu, coconut cream curries, fresh juices and noodles.  It’s a must-visit, and if you have time, go back and try other stalls!

Umu plate at the Muri Night Market

2.2 The Moorings Fish Cafe

Benefits of a small island is that peoples’ recommendations for the best food is often the same places!  So many people recommended the Moorings Fish Cafe! It is a local and tourist favorite.  The restaurant is situated a few minutes from Muri lagoon, with lots of outdoor seating and smiles to go around. 

The Moorings serve fish sandwiches, salads and legendary smoothies.  For me, I visited twice and first had the ahi tuna sandwich, and then their more famous breaded mahi mahi sandwich.  Their menu can be found here: here … and OMG – THE CIABATTA BREAD.  THE SUPER FRESH FISH.

2.3 Trader Jack’s

Another both local and tourist favorite is Trader Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Avarua, Trader Jacks is great for a relaxing drink by the sea, followed by an amazing seafood dinner.  A nice sit-down restaurant to enjoy with friends! Don’t trust the picture to do it justice – it’s amazing!

2.4 Tuakata Cafe

I’ve already briefly touched on the Tuakata Cafe, with their famous coconut delight.  I went there a few different times, having felt so welcomed by them each time.  Besides the coconut delight and, of course some fresh nu, I had an acai smoothie bowl one morning, and an ika mata for lunch a few days later.  Don’t forget the coconut delight!!  They’re open on Sunday, which is super rare on Raro!  (And here are the pictures again, because you can never have too many photos of food)

2.5 Cook Islands Coffee Company

For your morning cup of joe fix, might I suggest Cook Islands Coffee Company.  Located on the East side of ring road (you can find it with an orange traffic cone that says COFFEE with an arrow), it is only open during morning hours (7:30 to 10:30).  On M,W,F from 7:30 am, you may be lucky enough to try one of their famous croissants, made by the proprietor’s son.  I heard they were amazing, but beware!  They sell out quick!

Parting thoughts on Cook Islands Food

I truly believe you can’t have a bad meal on Rarotonga.  It’s possible to have a mediocre meal. However, locals prepare each meal such care and respect for the food.  Each ingredient is the freshest it could be.  Just because I’m not listing a ton of restaurants, it doesn’t mean there isn’t a food scene on Rarotonga.  It just means that I had limited free meals, and the tours I took, fed me very well.  The food in Rarotonga is amazing and I hope you’ve come to see that too!

And now that you’ve made it to the bottom of a drool-worthy post, I will reward you with a “standard” Cook Islands photo:

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If you love Cook Islands food, maybe you’re interested in having a traditional Cook Islands meal, with each course at a different local’s house! Hear stories, learn about their families and land, and eat amazing food on the Progressive Dinner Tour. For more info and an exclusive discount code, click here!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

There are many tours that will take you there or renting a car is certainly an option.  But going from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus for a day trip is completely doable, quite easy to do, and incredibly cost effective! So, if you’re up for an adventure, read on! I’ll give step-by-step instructions on how to go from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus.

1. Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Buying bus tickets from Zagreb to Plitvice is easy enough.  A roundtrip ticket on Arriva, was 112 kuna | < $18 USD  | 15 EUR.  My 5:45 am departure (which arrived shortly after 8 am) meant that I’d have to leave my Airbnb around 5 am, in order to arrive early enough to figure things out…just in case.  My ticket was emailed to me as a PDF and included the platform number (#405), and sure enough, there it was.  Large luggage will cost you 10 kuna to put underneath the bus. My large 50 L backpack was fine as a “carry on.”  And then we were off! From Zagreb to Plitvice by bus!

There are 2-3 ten minute stops along the way, but I never left the bus fearing a) losing my seat, and b) the bus leaving without me.

Along the way, you drive through small villages and if you look closely, you can see sprays of bullet holes covering the village houses.  Rising ethnic tensions between Croatians and Serbs sparked with the death of a Croatian army commander.  The result was the Croatian War for Independence, which began in Plitvice, late March 1991.  Both sides had only 1 death each, during the “Plitvice Incident” or the “Plitvice Bloody Easter”, with over 20 wounded and 400 tourists evacuated.

2. Arriving at Plitvice Lakes

After a little over two sleepy hours on the bus, we finally made it from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes. So excited!

Plitvice Lakes has been a national park since after WWII, and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979.  After the Croatian War for Independence, the parks were swept for mines and all of the remaining mines were removed.  Over 1 million people visit the park annually.

When I went to Plitvice in June, the cost of admission for adults was 150 kuna | < $24 USD | 20 EUR.  In July and August (the country’s high season), that jumps to 250 kuna | $40 USD | 34 EUR if you enter before 16:00.

2.1 Entrances to Plitvice

There are two entrances to Plitvice, smartly named Entrance 1 and Entrance 2.  The bus driver will call out the entrances to the passengers.  Depending on what you want to see in the park, different entrances lead to different attractions. The side of the road where you exit the bus is the same side of the road as the entrance to the NP. 

And remember, that means at the end of the day, when you’re waiting to catch the bus back to Zagreb, the bus stop is on the opposite of the road.

2.2 Hiking Plitvice Lakes – Choose your walking program!

You can go hiking in Plitvice Lakes either for a leisurely walk, or an immense (almost) 20 km hike! The national park has 8 different “lake tour programmes”, with the “K” programme being the longest at 18.3 km, with an estimated completion time of 6-8 hours.  I was able to finish in about 5 hours, with breaks in between.

EXPERT TIP: MAKE SANDWICHES AND BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER.  
There are long stretches with no food or water.

3. The Long Hike – “K programme”

It’s always strange going on a long hike on your own.  Granted, there were other people around, because most of the various lake programmes criss-cross each other and overlap.  But I guess not many people wanted an ambitious “Hiking Plitvice Lakes Day.” There were very few people on the “full K programme.” Most of the trail was on wooden planks along or over the water, and when the K goes off into the green wooded area, there are easy to follow paths.

From P3 (around the middle of the map), I had to take off my shoes and cross over a small section in the water.

And from there towards where it continues well into the green, I met one person and one dog on the K trail.  (The dog did not belong to the person). 

4. Not alone at Plitvice anymore!

At some point, hours later, I met C and K, who were two travelers from Canada and they graciously agreed to let me walk with them.  They were also doing the K programme, but started at Entrance 2. Hiking Plitvice Lakes alone – mmm, ok on the fun level. Hiking Plitvice Lakes with fun people – even better!

5. Thoughts on Hiking Plitvice Lakes

The hike ended with a short 5 minute ferry across the water (gushing towards the finish line!) Ok, maybe not such an exciting finish. But, I will say hiking Plitvice Lakes was an amazing way to see so many of the waterfalls. Plus, being off the beaten path was a great way to avoid the mass of tourists. 

Small warning, though… every time you are about to come across a waterfall, the crowds increase and the pace slows, as everyone tries to pose for a picture.  It can get mildly overwhelming.

I finished the hike around 13:30, and was able to catch an earlier bus back to Zagreb.  In the morning, the bus from Zagreb to Plitvice dropped me off next to the entrance. The bus going back is on the opposite side of the road.

Luckily, I had some time to buy an ice cream before the bus arrived. The bus left around 14:45, and I was able to make it back in Zagreb for a shower and amazing dinner.

So in the end, if you love to walk, enjoy waterfalls and crystal clear waters, PLITVICE IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.  Especially if you’re alread in Zagreb, the bus to Plitvice is easy and a completely manageable day trip!

Add it to the bucket list!

6. Resources on going from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Bus tickets and schedules
Sample Zagreb to Plitvice bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 5:45 am – 8:08 am
• 6:30 am – 8:40 am
• 7:30 am – 9:45 am
• 8:30 am – 11:07 am
• 9:15 am – 11:30 am

Sample Plitvice back to Zagreb bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 2:45 pm – 5:05 pm
• 3:45 pm – 5:55 pm
• 5:18 pm – 7:50 pm

Information on Hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park and entrance fees:

• Lake walking programme description and maps
• Price list

REMEMBER BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER

Recap on my Zagreb to Plitvice Day

5:45 am Bus leaves from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
8:10 am: Arrival at Plitvice, Entrance 1
<< walk walk walk walk walk walk walk >>
1:30 pm: Make it back to Entrance 1
2:45 pm: Bus to Zagreb
3 pm: Rain, and feeling thankful to be on a bus and on the way home.  The man I encountered on the K trail, with the dog that was not his, went back to Zagreb on the same bus.
5:15 pm: Arrive in Zagreb
6:30 pm: Finish shower and eat amazing food at Pri Zvoncu
8:30 pm: Sleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. How to get to Lake Bohinj from Bled

The buses leave from the Bled bus station at 20 minutes past the hour.  We took the 9:20 bus, on another charter bus, over to the lake which took about 45 min.  The price of the bus depends on where you get dropped off. Our stop was Ukanc (pronounced, I think, like oo-CONCH), which cost us 4,10 EUR | $4.75 USD. Normally during high season, July and August, the bus runs once an hour and drops you off near most of the main sights.  It being not high season, meant that there was more walking involved.  Way more walking. 

There is an extremely complicated, yet accurate bus schedule here, from Bled to Bohinj.  There legend is extremely detailed, so make sure you are looking at the right column, for the right season, and the right day of the week.

2. Ukanc and uphill to Savica Waterfall

We stopped off at Ukanc, which was the closest stop to the Savica Waterfall, in low season.  And by closest stop, it was still a 50-minute uphill trek, along the side of the only road going up there.  If you’re lucky enough to go in high season and take the bus to the closer stop, obviously it would not take this long.  So off we went. 

I’m so thankful that J was a good sport and trekked everywhere, without any real complaining.  I say real complaining, because part of the amusement during our walk was semi-complaining. Semi-complaining that people who passed us by in their cars never offered to give two random women a ride. Even considering we were obviously going in the same direction, to the same place.  But never mind.

After about an hour (considering breaks to catch our breath and stops for photos), we finally arrived at a parking lot, two restaurants, and a sign that said the waterfall was another 20-minute walk.  More uphill, but this time, with stairs. 

3. Savica Waterfalls

Along the way, there is a little hut to pay the entrance fee (shown below), which was 3 EUR for adults.  All things considering, not a bad price, and definitely worth it.

When we finally reached the falls, there was only 5-10 people up there.  I guess since it was still the low season, it was to be expected.  Near the top, there are also viewpoints out across Lake Bohinj, where you can obviously see the valley formed by ancient glaciers.

Quick facts about the Savica Waterfall (from its brochure that I picked up):

• Height above sea level, at base: 894 m | 2,934 ft
• Two-part waterfall in the form of the letter A
• Height of the large waterfall: 78 m | 256 ft
• Height of the small waterfall: 25 m | 82 ft

4. Lunch stop at Koča Pri Savici

After the falls, we stopped by one of the nearby restaurants for some lunch.  Traditional Slovenian sausage and fries, served with the biggest ketchup and mustard containers known to mankind.

The sausages were delicious and the server was so friendly and talkative.

He asked if we had walked up here via the road or the back path. We came by the road. He encouraged us to take the back path on our way back down, which was shorter.  In reality, it may have been shorter, by mere minutes, but we took more photo breaks and of course, this was downhill. J was smart enough to ask the question, “Will we get lost?”  He laughed a little and said

“Not a chance.  Keep following the sound of the river.” 

And it’s true, we definitely did not get lost. But the sound of the river dissipated after time.  But there was really only one way to go, and after another hour, we had arrived back near Ukanc and the banks of the lake.

4.1 Pause and marvel at Lake Bohinj

5. The long meander to Mostnica Gorge

The next destination was the Mostnica Gorge.  Again, we could have taken the bus. However, it only runs once an hour. So we decided to walk, since it would take about an hour get there. 

From the very west bank of Lake Bohinj (where Ukanc is), to the very east bank of the lake, we walked.  We made some stops along the lake, at a beach and then a pier where we sat for a few moments to rest and enjoy the scenery.  We finally arrived at Stara Fuzina, a small village, which is more or less the gateway to the Mostnica Gorge.

5.1 Stara Fuzina

5.2 Onward to Mostnica Gorge

There were some confusing signs at times. If you followed them, I’m not sure where you would have ended up.  Very likely, you would have ended up at the gorge.  However, we decided to follow Google Maps, which had not led me astray thus far.  We were not entirely sure what we were looking fo. The word gorge really only tells me it’s a very big hole in the ground.  We finally arrived at a booth. The entrance fee was 3 EUR, but the booth was unmanned.  So free entrance it was!  At the booth, there was a fork in the road.

After much indecision, we decided to fork right. There were some other travelers following us and they forked left.  Let me tell you, forking right was the right decision.  Because of this, we accessed large rocks and took some amazing photographs, while they painstakingly looked for a way to cross to our side.  They did not do in the end. I would not have recommended anyway, for safety reasons.  Views below, when you fork right.

We kept walking, trying to figure out where this gorge was. When we arrived according to Google Maps, there was nothing.  We walked on another 20 minutes, but then we realized that the path we were on was no longer marked by a yellow circle and was now a red square.  At that point, we decided enough was enough, and we turned around.  In the end, we realized that the gorge was right inside of the unmanned booth, on the bridge when we forked right.  Suffice it to say, the scenery along the way was absolutely gorgeous and well worth the additional trek.

6. The bus back to Bled

The bus that goes back to Bled leaves at the :47 after every hour, except for at 5:47 pm. Obviously, this is right around the time when we arrived at the bus stop.  I think most people were surprised that there was no 5:47 bus. But not me, thanks to the trusty yet confusing bus schedule.  After some relaxing and a well deserved Magnum ice cream, we hitched the 6:47 pm bus (for 3,40 EUR | $4 USD) and was back in Bled by 7:30 pm. 

According to my Apple Watch, I walked 33,000 steps that day… a personal best.  That amounted to about 16 miles or 25 km.  Exhausting, doable, and extremely worth it.  This beautiful day trip to Lake Bohinj is a must for those wanting to reconnect with nature and those who love exploring foreign national parks like I do!

Resources for Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

If you’d like to visit Lake Bohinj from Lake Bled, check out the bus schedule

Other things to see, in the Bohinj region, which we didn’t have time for:

• Cable car up to Vogel
• Hike up to Pec (about 45 min)

Approximate Schedule for the Lake Bohinj Day

• 8:20 am: Bus from Bled to Ukanc
• 10:10 am: Arrive at Ukanc bus stop, begin walking
• 11:30 am: Savica Waterfall
• << walking >>
• 1 pm: Lunch at Koča Pri Savici
• <<more walking>>
• 4:30 pm: near Mostnica Gorge
• 6:47 pm: bus back to Bled
• 7:30 pm: arrive back to Bled
• 8 pm: I’m asleep.

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Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/