Most tours and dinners include hotel pickup/drop off, which is really convenient.  If they don’t pick up on time, the island is a small circle.  Trust that they’ll be along shortly, because they always are.  (same with the bus!)  Everything is on island time.  So relax, sit back, and enjoy the awesome things to do and eat in Raro.

But first, if you haven’t read my post on Cook Islands food, I suggest you start there!

1. Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes

For my first full day in Rarotonga, I scheduled a BBQ Lunch and Lagoon Cruise with Captain Tama.  It was NZ$79 | $52 USD, which included snorkeling, lunch, a coconut demonstration and sarong show.  The ship was crewed and the tour hosted by a few, young Cook Islander men.  Good humored and full of fun, they took us out from Muri Beach to a beautiful area of blue seas for some snorkeling.  I went in for a bit, but it was a bit cloudy under the water from the current, and man… that current was insane!

Watch this video on YouTube.

After snorkeling, we headed back towards the Muri area, and docked off of an uninhabited island across from Muri. Captain Tama (and maybe another tour company) set up a small dining area with facilities on this island for use during the day.  The crew were busily getting lunch prepared, and were grilling fresh fish and bananas.

From the paw paw (papaya) up top and clockwise, grilled banana and grilled onions, fresh grilled mahi mahi, bread, cole slaw, potato salad, and a sliver of a coconut slice.

I won’t give much else away, but here are a few photos from their coconut demonstration.  No photos of the sarong show.  Why?  I was selected as the model for an introduction to how to tie sarongs or pareos.  shrug..

Really fun time with the crew that took us out that day.  It’s a warm welcome to the Cook Islands and an introduction to their fun loving personalities.

2. Progressive Dinner

After a few hours of rest and relaxation on my patio lounge chair, in the evening, I set out for what’s known as the Progressive Dinner (NZ$99 | $66 USD).  This is a dinner tour, where each of the three courses are eaten at a different family’s house.  Each course came with lots of stories and an introduction to their family and land.

It was a really busy night for the Progressive Dinner… there were probably close to 40 people there.  I guess that’s a bit unusual, and it’s normally a much smaller group, which is how I imagined it. 

At dinner, I met a nice Australian couple on their honeymoon, and an interesting retired New Zealander, Polly.  Polly has been coming to Raro since the mid-1990s, and lives for a few weeks or months there every year.  She’s been coming to the Progressive Dinners for at least the last 5+ years when she’s in Rarotonga, and she keeps coming for the great food and lovely people that host and take part in it.  I wish I talked to her more, because I think she must have great stories to tell.

Without further ado… the progressive dinner.

2.1 First Course

2.2 Second Course

What do you recognize on my plate from my earlier post, introducing food in the Cook Islands?

iSpy list:

• paw paw
• poke
• umu
• rukau

One of the best things to do in Rarotonga, in my book? Eat with friendly locals and hear their stories about life in the Cook Islands.

2.3 Third Course

Parting thoughts on the best things to do in Rarotonga

For my first full day on Rarotonga, not bad, right?  Captain Tama and the Progressive Dinner were both GREAT introductions to the warm and fun-loving spirit of the Cook Islanders. Definitely, if you’re looking for two of the best things to do in Rarotonga, consider Captain Tama’s Cruise and the Progressive Dinner. You won’t regret it!

– Useful Information –

• Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes – NZ$79 | $52 USD, daily, 11 – 3 pm.  Pick up, drop off, and lunch included
• Progressive Dinner – NZ$99 | $66 USD, Mondays and Thursdays, 5 – 9:30 pm.  Pick up and drop off included

Love it?  Pin it!

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1.Staples of Cook Islands’ Food

1.1 Coconut

Let me begin by saying that the coconut is one of the most central aspects of Cook Islander cuisine, taking form in fresh coconut cream and milk, grated coconut, the “coconut marshmallow,” coconut juice from fresh nu, and of course, the coconut meat itself, usually eaten in sliced wedges.

1.2 Ika Mata

Raw fish and chopped vegetables in coconut cream and lime juice. Not to be confused with Hawaiian poke or Cook Islander poke…(and since I brought that up)

1.3 Cook Island poke

A looser, mochi-type tapioca concoction, usually made with local bananas and topped with fresh, grated coconut.  Not considered a dessert, and is served with the main dishes.  It also has nothing to do with raw fish, despite what you may have thought because of its name.  (Apologies for the awful photo of the poke – the lighting was really bad.  Plus, it’s not that photogenic of a dish anyway, usually a gelatinous blob in varying colors.  This one in purple, made from taro)

1.4 Paw paw

Papaya fruit (and/or local, firm bananas) with grated coconut in a coconut cream base.

1.5 Cassava (or tapioca) and arrowroot

Although cassava and arrowroot are different plants, they are similar in consistency. Both are of a starchy consistency, commonly used as thickeners. In Cook Islander cuisine, it’s mixed with local ingredients, in a variety of dishes, including the famous Coconut Delight.  From what I can gather, it is a mixture of grated coconut and cassava, which is then pan fried for crispiness.  The cassava gives it a chewiness, similar to mochi. Served at the Tuakata Cafe, a short walk from the bus terminal in town and down the street from the Office of the Prime Minister.

1.6 Umu

Traditional roasted chicken or pork, made by digging a hole and burying the food in an underground oven.

1.7 Rukau

Rukau, or “Cook island spinach”, is actually young taro leaves. They’re typically boiled and cooked in a cream sauce. The running joke that guides love to tell is …

Rukau has a lot of iron and helps men put lead in their pencils… if they have someone to write to.

Unlike other tourist or foodie destinations, there isn’t one specific restaurant that is known for their ika mata, paw paw, or umu.  That’s not quite how life works in the Cook Islands.  Instead, most tours include a traditional lunch, with ika mata, grilled fish, probably some poke, likely some umu, and a variety of coconuts and fruits.  All of the food I had on various tours and at dinner shows were all high quality and extremely fresh. So don’t worry! You’ll have amazing food, pretty much anywhere!

2. Places to Eat

If you have some spare meals in between your tours, here are a few places I would highly recommend to eat at.

2.1 The Muri Night Market

The Muri Night Market, is held…most* nights. (Sun, Tues, Wed, Thu). It starts around 5 pm, and be sure to get there early as vendors will stop once all their food is sold.  One of the famous stalls sells banoffee pie, which sadly was too aggressively large sized for me to try, being already full from umu and heavy coconut creams.  Other stalls have local Cook Islander fare… umu, coconut cream curries, fresh juices and noodles.  It’s a must-visit, and if you have time, go back and try other stalls!

Umu plate at the Muri Night Market

2.2 The Moorings Fish Cafe

Benefits of a small island is that peoples’ recommendations for the best food is often the same places!  So many people recommended the Moorings Fish Cafe! It is a local and tourist favorite.  The restaurant is situated a few minutes from Muri lagoon, with lots of outdoor seating and smiles to go around. 

The Moorings serve fish sandwiches, salads and legendary smoothies.  For me, I visited twice and first had the ahi tuna sandwich, and then their more famous breaded mahi mahi sandwich.  Their menu can be found here: here … and OMG – THE CIABATTA BREAD.  THE SUPER FRESH FISH.

2.3 Trader Jack’s

Another both local and tourist favorite is Trader Jacks.  A restaurant and bar near Avarua, Trader Jacks is great for a relaxing drink by the sea, followed by an amazing seafood dinner.  A nice sit-down restaurant to enjoy with friends! Don’t trust the picture to do it justice – it’s amazing!

2.4 Tuakata Cafe

I’ve already briefly touched on the Tuakata Cafe, with their famous coconut delight.  I went there a few different times, having felt so welcomed by them each time.  Besides the coconut delight and, of course some fresh nu, I had an acai smoothie bowl one morning, and an ika mata for lunch a few days later.  Don’t forget the coconut delight!!  They’re open on Sunday, which is super rare on Raro!  (And here are the pictures again, because you can never have too many photos of food)

2.5 Cook Islands Coffee Company

For your morning cup of joe fix, might I suggest Cook Islands Coffee Company.  Located on the East side of ring road (you can find it with an orange traffic cone that says COFFEE with an arrow), it is only open during morning hours (7:30 to 10:30).  On M,W,F from 7:30 am, you may be lucky enough to try one of their famous croissants, made by the proprietor’s son.  I heard they were amazing, but beware!  They sell out quick!

Parting thoughts on Cook Islands Food

I truly believe you can’t have a bad meal on Rarotonga.  It’s possible to have a mediocre meal. However, locals prepare each meal such care and respect for the food.  Each ingredient is the freshest it could be.  Just because I’m not listing a ton of restaurants, it doesn’t mean there isn’t a food scene on Rarotonga.  It just means that I had limited free meals, and the tours I took, fed me very well.  The food in Rarotonga is amazing and I hope you’ve come to see that too!

And now that you’ve made it to the bottom of a drool-worthy post, I will reward you with a “standard” Cook Islands photo:

Falling in love with Cook Islands Food?  Pin it!

If you love Cook Islands food, maybe you’re interested in having a traditional Cook Islands meal, with each course at a different local’s house! Hear stories, learn about their families and land, and eat amazing food on the Progressive Dinner Tour. For more info and an exclusive discount code, click here!

Travel Insurance

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Bus from Vienna to Budapest

I took RegioJet, roundtrip, for a total of 18 EUR | 21 USD.  The trip was comfortable, with a free hot beverage and movies/tv shows to watch.  The bus leaves from Stadion Bus Center (near the U2 Stadion stop) and arrives at Kelenfold in Budapest.

2. Arrival into Budapest

I bet you didn’t know, Budapest is a city split into two by the river.  Long ago, the city was two separate cities – Buda to the left of the river, and Pest to the right. The bus arrives on the Buda side. My friend’s apartment, on the other hand, is way over on the Pest side.  Normally, I would have taken the metro to her place, but there was some construction on the metro lines by her flat, so taxi it was.

From her place, we walked over to Margaret Island (Margit-sziget), which is an island in the Danube with plentiful parks and trees.  We strolled to the tip of Margaret Island, where we caught a public transportation river boat service (the BKK Boat Service) down towards the Buda Castle.  On weekdays, you can use your Budapest public transportation ticket to ride on the BKK for free.  Unfortunately, on weekends, you need to buy a separate ticket, for 750 HUF | 2.75 USD.

3. Lunch at Czako Kert

From the Buda Castle stop, we walked along the Buda side, uphill to our brunch spot.  For the geographically curious, the Buda side has hills, whereas the Pest side is flat.  We stopped at Czako Kert, a lovely little cafe with garden, which also houses a farmers market on the weekends.

4. Rudas Bath – the ultimate relaxation!

It was a short downhill walk after lunch to Rudas Bath.  Coming from a few weeks of grueling classes, I suggested we visit a thermal baths.  The famous bath, Szechenyi Baths, was renovating one of their outdoor pools, so we decided on Rudas Bath.  Originally built in the 1500s as a Turkish Bath, Rudas Bath has since expanded to include restaurants, a rooftop jacuzzi with panoramic views, and various different pools.  We paid for the “all in” ticket, which included access to all of their different baths and wellness areas, for 6,200 HUF | 23 USD | 19 EUR.  And there we stayed, for hours on hours on hours. 

I didn’t take any photos. To be honest, I just really wanted to relax and break free from everything.  That didn’t stop other people from doing full on photo-shoots inside the baths. However, to each his own! The baths were amazingly relaxing. Visiting a bath is an absolute must!!

5. Sunset and Dinner at Hadik Cafe

After we finished, after hours of baths, we watched the sun set along the river. Absolute starving and now en route to dinner.  It’s funny how you can work up an appetite when doing absolutely nothing.

From Rudas, we went to the Hadik Cafe, which is a legendary cafe where famous Hungarian writers used to hang out.  On the weekends, it has live music in the evenings.  The inside is pretty quirky, but it’s a fun atmosphere.

I ordered a delicious Spinach “főzelék” (a Hungarian stew), paired with a Hungarian craft beer, Monkey Temple.

By the end of dinner, we were both so exhausted, and in need of sleep! We literally got back to her apartment, showered, and immediately said good night. I love being totally on the same wavelength!

Stay tuned for the conclusion to my short 36 hours in Budapest..

Day 1 recap

• 7:25 am: Regiojet, Depart from Vienna (U2 Stadion) | map
• 10:15 am: Arrive Budapest Kelenfold bus station | map
• 11 am – 1 pm: walking on Margaret Island, boat ride to Buda Castle
• 1:30 pm: Lunch at Czako Kert | map
• 3 – 8:30 pm: Rudas Baths | map
• 9 pm: Dinner at Hadik Cafe | map

Go on to Day 2

Looking for a foodie adventure in Budapest?

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Oaxaca is easily one of my favorite places in Mexico. But don’t get me wrong. It’s also great to get out of the city and see the surrounding areas. On my trip to Oaxaca in 2018, my friend and I decided to do a day trip to Mitla in order to see the sites and eat some more great food. And it actually turned out to be the best Oaxaca day trip we took!

We arranged to do a full day tour with our Airbnb host. Hiring private drivers to do this trip is relatively easy in Oaxaca. You can find someone in Centro to take you. Alternatively, the host at your hotel or lodging should be able to make arrangements for you.  We paid 250 Pesos per hour, exclusive of entrance fees.

Our tour included the following:

• Arbol del Tule – the oldest and widest tree in the world!
• Mitla – home of the Zapotec civilization,
• Hierve el Agua – a calcified “waterfall” in the mountains,
• and Mercado de Tlacolula – a market, known for its famous barbacoa, BBQ goat/sheep, markets on Sundays!

And let me just tell you – it was one of our best Oaxaca day trips of our time there!! But first, before we start the day trip to Mitla, we need to make sure our bellies are nice and full!

---

1. Breakfast

Of course, we had to start off our day with a hearty meal. We left our Airbnb at 8:30 and arrived at Restaurant La Palapa de Raúl at 9 am, right when they opened for breakfast.

It’s on the way, so you might as well time it perfectly like our host did!

• 

• 

---

2. Arbol del Tule (“the tree of Tule”)

And then we were off!  The first stop was the Arbol del Tule, which is arguably the oldest and widest tree in the world.  Some call it the “tree of life.” 

• 

• 

Rumor has it, the tree is at least 1500 years old.  The diameter of Arbol del Tule is 14.05 meters (46.1 feet).  It sits in a closed off courtyard, along with the town’s church. Walk around the tree and you see animals spring to life. A lion and a crocodile are easily visible in the massive tree trunk.  Sadly, the tree is slowly dying. Pollution, water shortages, and the weight of the nearby road on its roots are the main detriments to the tree’s health.

Entry to the courtyard costs 10 Pesos.  Although you can see the tree without entering the courtyard, it’s worth it to pay if you really want to see the true beauty and nuances of the old tree.

---

3. Hierve el Agua (“the water boils”)

From there, we headed into the mountains to Hierve el Agua. This is the view, as you ascend the mountains.

As you pass through small villages on your way, you pay two entrance fees –

• one at an earlier village for 10 Pesos per person,
• and one right outside of Hierve el Agua for 25 Pesos per person. 

There is a reason for the two entrance fees. There is only one road to Hierve el Agua, with two villages in succession before the entrance. The first village wanted to reap the benefits of increased tourism, since buses and vans pass through their village and degrading their roads, etc.  Hence, the double entrance fee was born and frankly, for a combined total of 35 Pesos | under $2 USD, it’s definitely worth it.

• 

• 

Once you get in, there are two parts to this attraction.

1. A petrified, calcified formation (similar to stalactites or stalagmites) that looks like a cliffside waterfall,
2. Pools formed by mountain spring waters. 

There are two pools, one on an upper terrace, which is natural, and one on a lower terrace, which has spring water directed there. 

Bring your swimsuits, because you can swim or soak in these two pools. 

• 

• 

• 

To my confusion, these are not thermal baths. Although the water is pure and probably great for your skin, it is a gentle, cool bath.  There are changing rooms and relatively clean bathrooms avaialble for a few pesos.  At the baths, you’ll get a view of the petrified waterfall.  It’s a short hike uphill to get to the actual “waterfall”.  I didn’t go, but my friend did. She said there was another pool at the top.

---

4. Roadside Mezcaleria

Leaving Hierve el Agua, we stopped by an artisan mezcaleria run by a small family.  This is the Mexico’s mezcal region, with large swaths of agave plants growing along the roads, up into the mountains. 

Mezcal is made with the core, or the “pineapple” or the agave plant.  The leaves are all cut off and the core is thrown into a fire pit to roast.  After roasting, the cores are flattened with its juices squeezed out by a patient donkey and attached to a stone wheel.  The donkey spends the whole day walking around in a circle, pausing, while the caretaker uses his pitchfork and adjusts the agave cores which are now turning into a pulp.  It’s then fermented and twice distilled, and then it’s ready for drinking! 

• 

• 

After a little tasting, I bought a walnut-infused mezcal, for 70 Pesos | ~$4 USD.

---

5.  Mitla – home of the Zapotecs

Then we headed to Mitla, one of the most important archaeological site for Zapotecs, operating as their main religious center and sacred burial site.  Tickets are around 70 Pesos, same as my mezcal purchase. 

There are three complex groupings that are currently open for visitation – the church group, the column group, and the arroyo group (I think). The three sites are within walking distance of each other, with a small market on the grounds as well. The buildings in Mitla are known for the intricate, interconnected stone work. 

• 

• 

• 

The name Mitla is a Hispanicized word meaning “place of rest” or “place of the dead.” While I don’t want to diminish the importance of Mitla as a religious center, the reason why Mitla is famous is because of the intricate and decorative mosiac fretwork that you see above. That type of design covers tombs, panels, and entire walls! None of the other Mesoamerican sites in Mexico have that kind of geometric designs! Not only that, but it is extremely well-preserved, considering it may have been inhabited as early as 900 BC!

Gorgeous, right? Now you know why the day trip to Mitla was a must!

---

6. Tlacolula Market – Sunday barbacoa eats!

After Mitla, we had worked up an appetite. Since we hadn’t eaten anything since our breakfast hours earlier, it was time to hit the Tlacolula Market!

The Tlacolula Market is famous for it’s Sunday barbacoa.  Local families and restaurants will come out to this market on Sundays to buy barbacoa for their families or their restaurants.  Barbacoa is goat or sheep barbecue, served in a taco or in a soup.  DELICIOUS!  and worth timing out for the Sunday market.

• 

• 

• 

• 

---

Parting Thoughts on the Day Trip to Mitla

All in all, this was an amazing and diverse day trip.  It is well worth taking the time to make arrangements.  The itinerary took us from 8:30 am to about 5:30 pm, and was a full day trip.  Granted, we took our time eating and walking around the markets and things.  I’d definitely consider it the best Oaxaca day trip you can take!

The cost we paid to our Airbnb host was about 2,250 Pesos (or a little over $100 USD), which was split between the two of us. Entrance fees for Arbor del Tule, Hierve el Agua, and Mitla added to 115 Pesos (approximately $6 USD), per person. Great for the budget conscious traveller!

For an added bonus, consider combining Teotitlan del Valle with this day trip. It is a small village known for its artisans and weavers. It is conveniently located along the way, and is included on the Google Map below. 

If you’re looking to join a tour instead, it will cost about $45 USD per person, on average. Either via tour or on your own, it’s definitely worth it, and like I said – the day trip to Mitla was one of the best Oaxaca day trips we took!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

 

---

Love it?  Pin it!

---

Considering a Day Trip to Mitla?

Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In total, I spent 5 full days here. With action packed days, it was enough to eat, see, and do almost everything. This time, I was so lucky to have a travel buddy and super planner with me, who took the reigns of planning and execution and I just toddled along for the ride. It was a welcome change for someone who has gone at it alone for, at least, the last 9 countries. So, thank you Stef for being a super researcher, patient translator, and great friend!

So without further ado, here is my list of how Oaxaca melted my heart.

1. Visit Oaxaca for the People

Without a doubt, a city is only as welcoming as their people and Oaxaca is filled with warm and kind people. Let me just give you a few examples, which I just find so heartwarming and delightful

• the guard at the stamp museum who showed us how to open each of the vintage post boxes,
• the server at TacoVilla who went through the whole menu to make sure we understood each item (and then gave us a complementary order of sopapillas at the end of our meal!),
• all of the lovely locals who always greeted us with a smile and a Buenos Dias (good day!) either on the streets or in a restaurant,
• and even making sure to ask if we were enjoying our food, even if they were customers themselves!!! They wanted to make sure we were enjoying ourselves in their great city!

2. Quality of Life, also related to the people

Some of my fondest memories of this trip involve how local Oaxacans take time to enjoy life. During the day, the Zocalo is a lively square near the center of town filled with street vendors, shoe shiners, and elotes. On a Friday night, there were musicians and people dancing to the music while others were just sitting or standing around enjoying the evening.

One night, we took an hour and a half bike ride around the city, through an organization called Mundo Ceiba. Even though it was a little confusing at check in and the start of the ride, the organizers did an amazing job corralling and leading at least a hundred people. It wasn’t a hundred tourists though. Mostly they were locals of all ages with their families, enjoying the evening and the city they call home.  

The route went outside of the city center (Centro) and made its way into the smaller neighborhoods. The organizers kept cars at bay (with people holding up traffic) and through a loudspeaker and music, kept everyone engaged and their spirits high. For 70 pesos (approximately $4 USD) per person, it was a great way to get to know the city.

Another night, we ran into a wedding in town, which included a large procession with puppets, music, and dancers.  It was wonderful to see and be a part of.  Also, a warm congratulations to Adriana and Omar, who had a beautiful wedding in town that week

3. Wonderful Places and Spaces in Town

Oaxaca is just an amazing town center, with lots of character and charm everywhere you turn.  Looking into doorways and windows were a favorite activity of mine, because you never know when you will stumble on an art gallery, modern art exhibit, or restaurant.

3.1 Ethnobotanical Garden – Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca

The Ethnobotanical Garden (Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca) is a wonderful space in town, directly next to the main church. 

They offer English tours on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 11 am (2 hours) for 100 Pesos | $5.55 USD.  The tours give you an introduction to plants native to the area and a history of its domestication.  We were told that the tour usually sells out, and there are often people waiting in line before the garden opens at 11.  It’s true, there were people lined up, but the week we were there was an off week, and the town was unusually quiet.

3.2 Stamp Museum

Down the street from the garden, is the local stamp museum.  It’s very cute, and has a bigger and more interesting collection than you’d imagine.  It has a nice cafe and sitting area in the back and a cute gift shop in the front.  It’s free, so it’s worth a short stop on your way in or out of the gardens.

3.3 Amate Books

When roaming around town, you’re bound to come across Amate Books, which is a charming, local bookstore near the center.  So colorful and the decorations celebrate the indigenous local cultures.

3.4 Museum of Textiles

While walking around town, you’ll also come across the Museum of Textiles (free admission).  The museum is a charming space with rotating exhibitions of modern and traditional textiles, including textile-related art.  It closes at 8 pm, so there’s plenty of time to stop by.  There was a little. party going on when we stopped by one evening,

4. Visit Oaxaca for the Fun Day Trips!

We took two day trips out of the city, and they were both well worth it and easy to do!

4.1 Monte Alban

On the first trip, we went about half an hour outside of town to Monte Alban, which is a UNESCO heritage site known for its post-Classical archaeological ruins.  Monte Alban was built atop a mountain, with its architecture drawing inspiration from the hills and mountains.  It was the political and economic center for the Zapotecs.  Monte Alban is also featured on the back of a 20 Peso note.

We took a round trip bus from Oaxaca city to Monte Alban.  There were several providers, which could all be the same company.  The one we took was outside the Hotel Rivera del Angel, on Francisco Javier Mina (street), near the November 20 market.  The bus left Oaxaca on the half hours, in the morning, and returned from Monte Alban on the hour.  The journey takes about half and hour, winding up a mountain and through small villages.  The roundtrip ticket cost 55 Pesos |~$3 USD.  Alternatively, you could sign up and take a guided tour.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Entrance into the site cost 70 Pesos, and tickets can be bought via credit card using a digital kiosk.  There is a small museum with some artifacts and history, in Spanish only, and a small cafe.  We spent between 2-3 hours here, which was plenty of time to walk through each station and to read the corresponding plaques, which gave information in Spanish, English, and Zapotec. 

But be aware, there is little shade and the distance between buildings and structures can be harsh under the midday sun.  There are locals selling hats and umbrellas outside the entrance, in case you forgot yours.

4.2 Mitla, and the surrounding areas

It’s possible to see a bunch of really interesting places with a day trip outside the city.  It’s not that far, distance wise, but the countryside is vastly different from town and is worth making arrangements to go.  From research, I understand that hiring a private driver is fairly normal and easy to do. Had our Airbnb host not offered to shuttle us around, we would have found our own.   

Our full day tour took us to Arbol del Tule, Mitla, Hierve el Agua, and Mercado de Tlacolula.  Visiting Teotitlan del Valle (a textile, artisan village) would have been possible as well, but we took our time with a long breakfast and an extra visit with an artisan mezcal producer. 

Read all about the day trip to Mitla and surrounding areas

5. Visit Oaxaca for the FOOD

I know I consider myself a food expert, but in reality, I just like eating it. And enjoying it! And boy did I enjoy eating food in Oaxaca!

My fellow blogging friend will do better at explaining all the Oaxaca Street Food we ate. Considering she is an expert chef, I won’t describe everything we ate in detail. But, I will say – the freshly made tortillas were amazing!  You could smell the corn as you took each bite. 

Everything was made with fresh tortillas of varying thicknesses, colors, and levels of softness or crispiness.  These tortillas were often accompanied by beans, cheese, guacamole, meat, mole, and other veggies.  The google map has each spot we ate at marked down.  The real winner was Itanoni, which is known for its corn and tortilla products.  A little bit outside of the center of town, IT WAS SO WORTH IT!

All the places we ate at are listed on the map at the bottom of the post! Try them all!

Parting Thoughts on Oaxaca

So even though this post is more pictures than words, there is just so much to love and to share about Oaxaca. There’s just too much, especially on the food front, to do a proper recap, but everything worth mentioning is included in the Google Map below. 

In short, Oaxaca is a magical place that will capture your heart and soul.  Throughout your whole stay, you’ll probably comment about 10 times a day how charming a place is, how lovely that place is, and what a wonderful quality of life they have there.  And then you’ll know – you’re hooked on Oaxaca too!

I hope I’ve given you a few reasons to visit Oaxaca or at least to put it on your radar for the future. It’s delightful, the people are warm and lovely, and it’s absolutely delicious!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Planning to visit Oaxaca?  PIN IT!

Travel Insurance

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Titanic
2. Game of Thrones.

I can confidently say that Titanic Belfast is arguably the BEST MUSEUM I’VE EVER BEEN TO, and therefore the best thing to do in Belfast!  But no need to trust me.  Trust the “World’s Best Tourist Attraction Award” it won at the World Travel Awards (aka Tourism Oscars).

Now, in the time of COVID, you need to book your tickets in advance. I booked a student ticket for “The Titanic Experience”, at 15.50 GBP ($22 USD), which included the Titanic exhibits (self guided), as well as entry to the SS Nomadic – the White Star Line’s last remaining Vessel, and original tender boat to the RMS Titanic. 

But we’ll get to the Titanic in a bit. First thing’s first. Food.

Disclaimer: this post contains only iPhone photos, out of laziness and exhaustion from carrying my camera gear.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Pre-Museum Breakfast in Belfast

My day started near the Botanic train station.  Nearby is Maggie Mays Belfast Cafe, which its website boasts as the “best home cooking in Belfast”.  Beware, it’s cash only.  I didn’t really know what Northern Irish breakfast was like, but after lots of smoked salmon and eggs in Scotland, I was ready for a change.

As an American, cheesy beans on toast is not a thing. In fact, beans are rarely a breakfast item. But when in Belfast, do as the Northern Irish do.

In case you were wondering, this breakfast is definitely a knife and fork activity.  Pretty delicious and extremely filling, it keep me full for several hours.  And then I set off on a long walk, about 2.5 miles (50 minutes), from the Botanic area to Titanic Belfast.

2. En route to the Titanic Belfast

Long meandering is very much my style, mainly because you get to see lots of the city by walking.  Taking the train is also an option – its an easy route from Botanic to the Titanic Quarter station.  But the more I walk, the more I am able to eat by the time the next meal rolls around. Titanic Belfast is located across the River Lagan from the rest of the city.

Along the way, you’re able to pass City Hall, many charming Victorian buildings, the Albert Clock (commemorating Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband), and the Spirit of Belfast.

The Albert Clock (lower left) was built on marshy, reclaimed land near the river, and as a result has begun to lean.  Nearby, is the Spirit of Belfast sculpture (lower right), which like all sculptures in a capital city, has some kind of controversy surrounding it.  The Spirit was built after a city-wide competition for a sculpture, and won a majority of votes.  However, it didn’t stop someone from adding a banner with the bold word “FAIL” to the front of it in 2012.

2.1 The Salmon of Knowledge

When you come out of the city area, and reach the riverbanks of the Lagan, you are greeted by the Big Fish, or the Salmon of Knowledge.  Yes, there is a Salmon of Knowledge in Belfast. I mean, if I didn’t already tell you that I thought Titanic Museum was the best thing to do in Belfast, I’m sure visiting the salmon of knowledge would have been your guess.

The Salmon was built to commemorate the return of fish to the River Lagan in 1999.  Development of the river areas, reclaiming land, and changes to the river that almost entirely changed the landscape of Belfast … all of this aided in the loss of marine life to the river.  But thankfully now, the fishies are back again.

And then onward, to the Belfast Harbour and the SS Nomadic.  All along the river, there are signs with historical facts about Belfast and its shipbuilding industry.

3. The Titanic Belfast

When I arrived to the museum, my friend texted me, asking about my plans for the day. I was about to visit the Titanic museum, I said.  To which she replied, “Why is there a Titanic Museum in Belfast?”  Great question.  The Titanic was built in Belfast!  In their dry docks, with their laborers.

The museum was built on the original site of the shipyard where Titanic was built.  It is a large, squarish building, with at least 6 floors of exhibitions. 

At first, this made me a little nervous, because big museums can be… boring, if not curated properly.  But I can say, without a doubt, the museum was fantastic!  Very interactive, a lot of videos and audio files to listen to.  The exhibits expertly used technology and computer animation to give facts and offer perspective into size or volume. 

It even started out with a history of Belfast section, which I very much appreciated, introducing the various industries that gave rise to Belfast’s industrialization… for example, linens, whiskey, and finally, shipbuilding. Back in the day, Belfast was the number one producer of linens made from flax – really cool, right?

Exhibits at Titanic Belfast:

• Boomtown Belfast
• The Shipyard – which includes an amusement park-like ride through a recreation of a shipyard and moves through a scale replica of Titanic’s rudder (it’s enormous!  but poorly lit, so no good photos or videos)
• The Launch – launch into Belfast Lough – May 31, 1911
• The Fit-Out, including a sample of each class of cabin, and a 360 degree computer generated tour through Titanic’s levels (shown in the bottom right photo of Prince Harry and Ms. Meghan Markle’s visit below)
• The Maiden Voyage – the journey from Southampton to Cherbourg, then Cobh, and then finally, across the Atlantic
• The Sinking – April 14/15, 1912
• The Aftermath
• Myths & Legends (including media portrayal)
• and finally, Titanic Beneath – a video and exhibit floor about the wreckage and rediscovery of Titanic

I probably spent about 2 hours in the museum, and about half an hour in the SS Nomadic tender. Admission to the SS Nomadic tender came with my Titanic ticket. 

The Nomadic is a tender boat, used to ferry passengers to the Titanic and its sister ship, the Olympic.  It was built in the spillways next to the Olympic and Titanic in the Harland and Wolff shipyards. 

No matter what, the Nomadic is not as exciting especially when you come there directly following the world’s greatest museum.  But it was an interesting small vessel and worth the visit since you’re in the neighborhood.  Charlie Chaplin, from the photo above, was one of the famous people that had used the Nomadic back in the day.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

4. Lunch at Yardbird Belfast

Afterwards, I backtracked my original path, walked about 20 minutes towards the Albert Clock, in search of my lunch spot, Yardbird.  Yardbird specializes in free roaming, roast chicken.  Marinated for 24 hours and roasted on a spit.  Lunch is served from 12-5 pm, so there’s plenty of time to take advantage of their 5 GBP lunch specials (SO LEGIT).

Naturally, I ordered a lunch special.

The meat from the chicken was literally falling off the bones!!  After I finished… I was … still hungry.  (HEY!  I walked A LOT!)  And the table near me had an order of corn on the cob, so instead of ordering just a corn, of course, I ordered a second lunch special.

Although Yardbird isn’t the best thing to do in Belfast, like the Titanic Museum, it sure could be! I don’t have to explain how delicious it is – from my second helping, it’s pretty obvious.

5. Wrapping up the day

Full bellied and immediately satisfied, I left Yardbird to make my way home.  Along the way, I passed by Pottinger’s Entry.  There are several other entryways along the side off of the High Street in Belfast, but this is the most obvious with the big sign.  Curious, I peaked in, which revealed an alleyway and and a pub tucked behind it.

6. Parting Thoughts on my day in Belfast

Sometimes large museums can be daunting. You may struggle to keep your attention. But not Titanic Belfast! All of the exhibits were well-thought-out and very interesting. Even now, a few years later, I can still remember specific details about the exhibits. Belfast’s history is rich and diverse. You’ll learn so much by visiting Titanic Belfast.

If you’re willing to spend the time to learn, then Titanic Belfast is definitely the best thing to do in Belfast. Absolutely the most interesting museum I’ve ever been to!

Be sure you eat a hearty breakfast before. Nothing is worse than losing energy in a big museum! Aaaaand, maybe follow it up with an amazing roast chicken lunch or two!

7. Titanic Belfast Visitor Information

1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road,
Belfast BT3 9EP
Phone: +44 28 9076 6386
Website
Hours of operation: Check the website for up to date opening information.

2021 ticket prices

• Adult: 19 GBP ($26 USD)
• Child (5 – 16): 8.50 GBP ($12 USD)
• Child, under 5: FREE
• Family pack (2 adults, 2 children): 46.50 GBP ($65 USD)
• Essential carer: FREE
• Student (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)
• Senior (Mon – Fri only): 15.50 GBP ($22 USD)

8. Half Day Itinerary Recap

• 9 AM: Cheesy beans on toast at Maggie May’s | map
  • walk past City Hall, Spirit of Belfast, Albert Clock, Salmon of Knowledge
• 10:30 AM: greatest museum experience at Titanic Belfast | map
• 1:45 PM: double lunch specials at Yardbird | map
• Explore Pottinger’s Entry, along with other Entry’s
• 3 PM: Fin

Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

YES – and it’s incredible!

I was introduced to Eat Walk Edinburgh by my sister and brother-in-law, who had a delicious experience with them the previous year. Never one to turn down a great recommendation, I selected the Edinburgh Old Town and New Town food tour.

1. Hotel Du Vin

When I set out for the food tour, it was a brisk, February afternoon in Edinburgh.  Not too cold, but definitely a chill in the air.  The food tour began at Hotel Du Vin, a luxury hotel in the Old Town, housed in a series of old stone buildings.  Back in the day, the location was once the town’s poor house, insane asylum, science laboratory and blood donation center.

At Bistro Du Vin, we met our guide, Alan, and began our first course – smoked salmon. I’m not sure if people realize, but Scotland has an incredible seafood industry. And their salmon is famous! Unfortunately most of it is imported, so if you get the chance to eat Scottish seafood locally, take it!

The smoked salmon was absolutely delicious!  So light and refreshing. A great start to the Edinburgh food tour. 

On the way to our second stop, we passed by some cute shops and interesting landmarks in town.

2. Makars Gourmet Mash Bar

Our next stop on the Edinburgh food tour was Makars Gourmet Mash Bar, which calls itself “healthy, Scottish comfort food.”

We tasted some ox-cheek braised for 5 hours over mashed potato, with a side of black pudding. After being braised for so long, the ox cheek melted in your mouth. Our comfort food was paired with raspberry gin from the Edinburgh Gin Distillery. The bubbly (raspberry gin and prosecco) was light and perfect.  Beware… I was definitely a little tipsy afterward.

The above photos of the oxtail and black pudding is only a sample portion for the food tour.  Imagine my surprise when I went back the following day, and the regular portion was huge!

3. Scotch Malt Whisky Society

An Edinburgh Food Tour is not a real tour without whisky! The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is a members-only whisky tasting club and the host for our next tasting. I love that the food tour gives you access to an exclusive whisky club in Edinburgh.

What better way to pad your stomach for the upcoming whisky, than with some haggis, neeps and tatties!

Haggis comprises of sheep’s heart, liver, and lung, along with some minced mutton or beef. Combine it all with oatmeal with spices. It is stuffed into a sheep’s stomach and boiled.  Haggis is illegal in the US – it has something to do with the sheep’s lung! So, I really didn’t know what to expect.

It was actually really good – very hearty and heavy.  All of these ingredients separately, I may not have enjoyed as much.  But together, it’s pretty darn tasty and I highly recommend it. At least to try!

Findlay’s of Portobello, a family run butcher shop, made the haggis that we tasted.  Fun fact, most haggis that you see on any menu will have the name of the butcher shop it comes from.  Locals often have a favorite butchers for their haggis. 

The haggis came with a tasting of whisky, at 62% alcohol. As my first foray into whisky, it was smoky and too harsh for me. At the time, I was not a whisky drink. That changed. I really enjoy the sophisticated, complex flavors and smells. You just have to find the ones you like, since they are all so different from each other!

Fun facts about Scotch Whisky

I’ve written a more technical introduction to Scotch after my visit to Islay – Scotland’s whisky island. So head over there if you want to learn a bit more, coming from an island devoted to the spirit!

Now. Onto the fun facts that I learned.

Whisky is normally a clear-colored spirit, but the color comes from the oils in the wood cask that it sits in.  The whisky we tasted is a lighter color than you’d imagine. Most whiskys have a caramel color added to it in the blending process. That way, each bottle looks the same color and tastes the same. 

The whiskies they have at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society are unblended. Each cask tastes slightly different from the other, unlike what we are used to in mass production exporting.  Each bottle at the society is bottled into their anonymous bottles, labeled only with a number (corresponding to the distillery and cask number) and the color sticker of the taste profile. 

Also, two side notes about Scottish whisky. 

1. Whisky is spelled W-H-I-S-K-Y (without the E) in Scotland, Japan, and Canada. Whiskey, with an e, is American or Irish;
2. Apparently, 85% of Scottish whiskys are aged in bourbon casks shipped from the US.

From the first time I visited the SMWS Member Rooms on this Edinburgh Food Tour to now, I’ve collaborated with the SMWS several times. For those wanting to read more about my experiences and the benefits of memberships, read all about:

• an outdoor virtual whisky tasting, on Islay’s famous Three Distilleries Path;
• an exclusive whisky tasting in the Glasgow member room of SMWS;
• all the benefits of becoming a member of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

And now that you’re an expert on whisky and haggis like I am, onto the next stop! From here on out, I was full on tipsy and red.

4. Le De-Vin

Our next stop was a French wine bar, Le De-Vin, housed in an old Tudor building, where we snacked on a charcuterie plate with French and Scottish cheeses.  I love soft cheeses, so this was obviously a huge favorite of mine.

There was an option to snack on this with a beer, but no more drinks for me! Not on this tour anyway. I still need to be able to walk to dessert.

Also, don’t forget to take a good look at the chalkboard wall inside Le De-Vin. Notable Scots on the left (William Wallace, Sean Connery, and Billy Connolly among others), with notable French on the right (Edith Piaf and Joan of Arc and others).

5. Ghillie Dhu

The final stop on the Edinburgh Food tour – the Ghillie Dhu (pronounced with a hard G, the gilly doo), where we had some dessert.  The Ghillie Dhu is a solitary, male fairy, who lives in the northwest highlands. Although he’s described as relatively timid, he also has a wild side. Those fairies… gotta watch out for their antics!

So the dessert. It was a chocolate cup, with some whisky cream inside.  Topped with a cookie.  I think it was their Ghillie Boozy Cranachan, but don’t quote me on that. Typically a cranachan is a raspberry and cream dessert.

But the Ghillie Dhu take on the cranachan is also worth trying! Think of the ingredients – chocolate, whisky cream, cookie, raspberry drizzle. What’s not to love?

6. Become and honorary Scot on your Edinburgh Food Tour

Bellies full and probably buzzing, you are on your way to becoming an honorary Scot.  According to Alan, requirements for the title of honorary Scot:

• Haggis – check
• Whisky – check
• Irn Bru – complete on your own adventure.  You can’t miss the bright orange cans of fizzy energy.

It’d be too easy, if you were made an honorary Scot after taking one tour, right?

7. Parting Thoughts on the Edinburgh Food Tour

And that’s it for my Edinburgh food tour on my first trip to Scotland! And what a great introduction to Scottish food.  The Edinburgh food tour opened my eyes to the gorgeous, fresh produce and ingredients that Scotland is full of! Although Scotland isn’t known for it’s food, the food scene is definitely on the rise!

To conclude and reiterate my love for food tours… Food tours really are the best!! The next time I’m in Edinburgh, I want to try their other tours, just to taste different foods and get introduced to new restaurants!

If you’re ever in Edinburgh, I highly recommend Eat Walk Edinburgh!

For other Scotland food inspiration and other Edinburgh activities;

• learn more about a hearty and filling Scottish breakfast;
• if you’re going near Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, definitely try the tasting menu at Monachyle Mhor;
• visit the National Galleries of Scotland for free;
• stop by Holyrood Palace and say hello to the King at his official residence in Scotland!

Haven’t figured out how to get to Edinburgh yet? Consider the overnight sleeper train from London and arrive refreshed ready to eat your way through Edinburgh!

8. Edinburgh Food Tour recap + Discount Code

Tour provider: Eat Walk Edinburgh
Total walk length: 2 miles
Total food tour length: approx 3.5 hours
Please check their website for the latest covid-19 and social distancing requirements.
Costs before discount below:

• 2020 food tour for 2 people is 79 GBP | $99 USD per person,
  • 3 people 75 GBP | $94 USD per person,
  • 4 people 71 GBP | $89 USD per person,
  • 5 to 8 people 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.
• 2021 tours costs 67 GBP | $84 USD per person.

Exclusive 5 GPB discount for blog readers:
Use discount code LT5OFF
Valid until June 2021

1. Smoked salmon at  Hotel Du Vin | map
   • Pass by Greyfriars Bobby Bar and Maggie Dickson’s bar
   • Walk down Victoria Street
   • pass through Lady Stair’s Close alleyway, which is a fun little alley, that of course I forgot to take a picture of
2. Eat too much Scottish comfort food at Makars | map
3. Try not to drink too much at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society | map
4. Nosh on some charcuterie at Le De-Vin | map
5. Finish up with some dessert at a traditional Scottish bar, the Ghillie Dhu | map
6. Fall in love with Scottish cuisine and tell everyone about this amazing food tour in Edinburgh!

Hungry for an Edinburgh Food Tour?

Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I would suggest making reservations, especially if you travel to Skye during the peak tourism months of April – September (ish). 

Even though I was visiting during the off season, I made a 6:30 dinner reservation to make sure I could eat at this amazing restaurant, especially since it was so close to where I was staying.  If you stay at The Three Chimneys hotel, they automatically give you dinner reservations during your stay.  The hotel portion looks lovely from the photos online.

I arrived at the restaurant at 6:20.  There is a small parking lot across from the restaurant.  I imagine that lot would get full very fast, and the overflow parking is merely parking on the side of the road, which I am always loathe to do, for fear of parking badly and having another car hit me.  I digress. 

When I arrived at the restaurant, it was completely empty.  I was literally the only person there.  The wait staff were extremely friendly, and I asked them if it was normal for the restaurant to be this empty.  Apparently people in the UK enjoy later dinners, and the waiter said by 7:30 or 8 pm, the place would be completely full.  And sure enough, it was.

There are two dinner menu options, the dinner tasting menu (3 courses for £69) and the Skye Land and Sea tasting menu (8 courses for £98).  The restaurant requests that the diners at the table order the same tasting menu, probably to alleviate timing issues of one person having three courses and the other having eight.  But, why eat three courses when you can easily have eight?  So obviously, I selected the Land and Sea menu. Everything on that menu was either caught in the loch (lake) outside of the restaurant or farmed on Skye or in the Scottish Highlands.

Bread

First, they brought me some bread and butter.  Full disclosure, even though I told myself I wouldn’t eat all the bread, I really couldn’t help myself.  Foreshadowing: that was my mistake and I should try harder in the future not to stuff myself on bread and butter.

Two different types of sourdough bread and a rye + dark ale bread. There were two flavors of butter – the left was a claret or carrot butter (sorry, I really didn’t hear, but my first guess was claret. but I can’t be certain). the butter on the right was a delicious seaweed butter. Both were actually delicious, but I still couldn’t figure out what the first butter was.

1st course: Dunvegan Langoustine

Langoustine from the loch, with smoked cod roe, and a variety of carrots (dehydrated, pickled, and crisped). Side note, you’ll remember that langoustine is a favorite in Icelandic cuisine.

2nd course: Dunvegan Crab

Foam from the roasted Dunvegan crab with horseradish, dunvegan crab with salt baked turnip, and almonds. Delicious!!

3rd course: Sconser Scallops

Roasted scallop, on pork belly, with celery and grapefruit. with shrimp chip crumbles on top

4th course: Halibut

Seaweed wrapped miso halibut, with mussels, cockerels, and a fried oyster, on leek. This was probably my least favorite course, mostly because of the giant leek that the mussel was sitting on.  I didn’t feel that it worked very well, and I don’t know – the leek flavor was a little too much for me.

5th course: Mallard Duck

Roasted duck, topped with coriander seeds. rhubarb and spring onions, on the side For me, there was a bit too many coriander seeds on top, but then again, I am the type of person that thinks there is too many coriander seeds in Italian sausage.

6th course: Skye Red Deer

Skye red deer, with roasted beet root, with ash sprinkled on top. a side of haunch hot pot (not pictured).

This was my least favorite plating – it makes a great photo, but it felt morbid, with the beetroot sauce splattered on the plate and the ash sprinkled all over.  I’m not sure if my photo does it justice, but it felt like a vampire fantasy on a plate.

7th course: Lemon Cream

First dessert course – pistachio bread, with lemon cream sorbet, goat curd mousse, and burnt yogurt.

8th course: Baked Apple

Final course – second dessert – donut, with baked apple slices with java pepper crumble and cider cream.

I am usually one to finish everything on my plate, even if I am too full.  But the above donut hole wasn’t anything particularly special, and after one bite, I decided to leave it be.  The java crumble, however, was a surprisingly delicious peppery addition to the baked apple. Nice touch, Three Chimneys!

Parting Thoughts my dinner at Three Chimneys Skye

Although I was completely bursting by the end of the 8th course, the waitress came by with a box of chocolates.  We both looked at each other, her seeing me miserably full, and began to laugh.  But she told me, she understood, but I really had to try some of these chocolates.  Her personal recommendation was the chocolate truffle and the sea salt caramel chocolate. 

And although I thought I was so full that I could not bear it, it turns out there is always room for chocolate. 

All in all, Three Chimneys offered a very unique and delicious tasting menu – the Tastes of the Land and Skye. It’s a wonderful introduction to local wildlife in Scottish cuisine.  Definitely don’t eat too much of the delicious bread that they give you in the beginning, and you may stand a chance.

For other fine dining experiences in Scotland, be sure to check out:

• Monachyle Mhor – spearheaded by Chef Tom Lewis, tucked away in the Trossachs;
• Inver – Chef Pam Brunton’s Michelin Green Star winning dining experience in the heart of Argyll on the west coast.

Restaurant Information for the Three Chimneys Skye

Three Chimneys | map
Colbost, Dunvegan, Colbost,
Isle of Skye IV55 8ZT, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 1470 511258
Reservations Required

Post make you hungry?  Pin it!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Late night arrival into Tel Aviv & Jerusalem

I arrived from Vienna at nearly 1 am into the Tel Aviv Airport.  I was questioned at immigration for being a single traveler on holiday in Israel, which I take it, is not normal.  Since it was Saturday at 1 am when I arrived, the Sabbath already began and my transportation options into Jerusalem were limited.  My airbnb host said there would be some Nesher taxis I could take for about $16 USD.  Imagine my surprise when I couldn’t find one and the only taxis there quoted me about $100 USD.  At a certain point in traveling, and when it’s getting on near 2 am, stop arguing and just make sure they take credit card.  So there I was, in an overpriced taxi van.  I sent a “find your friend” notification of my whereabouts to my friend, just in case.  You really can never be too careful.

Taxi misadventures

The taxi driver asked if I wanted metered fare or a flat fee.  Knowing that flat fees were allegedly illegal, I chose the metered fare amount.  There we were – driving along the highway in near-darkness. My driver pointed out very innocuous things like… a large power plant … or a convent where the nuns don’t speak. None of which, I could see.  I’m watching the meter, and it is creeping up very fast. I now know that my taxi fare will exceed $100. 

We were nearing Jerusalem when all of a sudden, the driver pulls over on the side of the highway. 

I am REALLY glad I gave my friend my location at this point, because there is no telling what is going on…although her being in America, what would that really do?

He asks me for my credit card.  I’m dumbfounded, but clearly not going anywhere.  As I’m reaching for my card, he turns off the meter.  My brain went to sinister places because it was near 2 am. In reality, we hit the flat fee amount on the meter, stopped the meter, and went for the flat fee instead, to save me money.  You could’ve just said something, instead of just pulling over on the side of the highway near 2 am and freaking me out. <y late night misadventures didn’t stop there. My Airbnb host neglected to tell me, that taxis cannot fit on the alley in front of the unit.  The taxi driver proceeded to drop me off about 2 blocks away from my actual apartment, at around 2:30 a.m.  Not pleased.

One final note about the evening and my first impressions. Everyone says Reykjavik’s drinking water tastes like sulfur.  And I agree – it does.  Jerusalem’s tap water, after boiling, tastes way worse.  Way.  Worse.  It’s supposed to be drinkable, but really, it was awful.

2. Breakfast at Aroma

The next morning, parched and completely dehydrated, I set out.  Not much was open on the Sabbath, but I managed to find a croissant and a coffee at a place called Aroma.  It was packed to the brim with people.

Recharged and stomach happy, off I went. 

3. Garden Tomb

First stop was the Garden Tomb, which is allegedly the burial and resurrection site of Jesus.  Nestled in a peaceful garden, there are areas set up around the garden for people to hold sermons or sing hymns. Both of which happened during my short visit. There was a peaceful, calming air in the atmosphere.  You’d never even realize that a large Arab marketplace was just steps outside.

4. Muslim Quarter and the Old City

I spent the afternoon walking around, trying to make my way to the Western Wall.  It’s supposed to be open on Saturday , but you’re not allowed to take pictures.  But I couldn’t access it for the life of me.  There were some parts, I guess leading to Temple Mount, where Muslims told me I couldn’t go. Only Muslims were allowed on Saturdays.  I didn’t think I was that close to the Temple Mount, but needless to say, there was a very large area that I could not access.  Everything to the right of the black line, I could not get to.  But did you know that the majority of the Old City is a big marketplace with winding alleyways and stalls and shophouses?

Regardless, this area is covered by my tour the following day.  After roaming around the Old City for quite some time, I was tired and hungry. 

5. Lunch at Menza

On my walk back home, I passed by Menza, which was also on my list of places open during the Sabbath.  I stopped in for a deliciously fresh salad.

After my wonderful lunch, I went back to my Airbnb for some Netflix and rest before my mad dash to a hot restaurant to try and snag a table.  If you’re in Jerusalem for only one meal, this is the place you need to try! Check out my dinner adventures and review here!

6. Jerusalem & Bethlehem Tour

For the next day, I signed up for a Jerusalem tour, which also covered Bethlehem (in the West Bank, Palestine). The tour operater agreed to drop me off in Bethlehem, albeit with some degree of judgment. I think the actual response was, “But why would you want to [stay in Bethlehem]?” I’m pretty sure my response was: “Why not?”

It never ceases to amaze me where old Roman roads pop up. And they are so well preserved!  No wonder all roads lead to Rome.

I’m not really going to talk much about my tour, because it started raining and was cold and extremely windy.  To come full circle, my “Jerusalem syndrome” began with the extreme weather I experienced on this tour. It resulted in a 2 week long illness, for which I literally have just recovered.  Anyway, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.  And to begin, here I am at the Western Wall (aka Wailing Wall).

Crossing into the Bethlehem, in the West Bank

Parting Thoughts – my 36 hours in Jerusalem

And with that, my tour and my time in Israel was over.  Jerusalem, for me, felt a little too chaotic and a little too loud.  I expected peacefulness and serenity. Given that Jerusalem is the center of three major religions, I imagined the “Holy Land” to be more calming than the city turned out to be. Perhaps the experience is different for those who are more religiously inclined. But it was definitely an experience. 

Day 1 Recap

• 10 AM: coffee and croissant at Aroma | map
• 11 AM: Garden Tomb (free) | map
• 12 PM: Muslim Quarter and the Old city | map
• 3 PM: late lunch at Menza | map
• approx 7:30 PM (1 hour after sunset): dinner at Machneyuda | map

For my Day 2 itinerary, click here.

Pin it for later!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

“If you only have time for one meal, make a reservation at the restaurant Machneyuda.” 

The Points Guy

I basically had time for one great meal. Obviously, I had to try to eat at the best restaurant in Jerusalem.

Machneyuda opens 1.5 hours after the Sabbath on Saturday. After googling, on February 17, 2018, the end of Sabbath was 6:04 pm.  So by 7:15, I was sitting outside of the restaurant, hoping hoping hoping I would get a table.  I did not make any plan B’s, such was the ferocity of my determination.

Arrival to Machneyuda

It was a 6 minute walk from my Airbnb, which would have been fine, except that it started raining, literally the second that I started walking.  With each step, the downpour got heavier and heavier.  In my head, I considered turning around, giving up, and eating chocolate for dinner.  But thinking of the points guy, I thought this was indeed my one open slot for a great meal in Jerusalem, I trudged onward. 

When the doors finally opened around 7:40 pm, I immediately said I was looking for a table for 1, and explained how the reservation system did not work for reservations for 1.  They said there was no availability and they were fully booked for the evening.  But I was welcome to wait.  I have to apologize for my behavior, because I suppose I could have been nicer.  But the rain hampered my mood.  I was waiting outside not more than 3 minutes when the host said there was a cancellation, and if I did not mind eating with another single traveler who also did not have a reservation, that we could share a table.

ENTER NEW FRIEND

As a solo traveler, this has happened in the past, and I was paired up with another woman.  However, back then (in Rome) the other woman did not speak English.  So we sat at the world’s tiniest table, NOT speaking to each other and NOT looking at each other while eating.  LOL

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

The host and the waiter gave us a round of shots to show their appreciation for us sharing a table.  Me and S already started chatting it up immediately and were both so happy to not have a dinner in silence.  Plus, as The Points Guy accurately described, it felt like a raucous party inside. 

I ordered the tasting menu, for 295 Shekels (which is about $84), and it was the most generous tasting menu I have ever had in my life. And you will definitely see how it is the best restaurant in Jerusalem!

Without further ado…

1st Course

Tuna tartare with “the worlds smallest tomatoes” and cream cheese.

2nd Course

Caviar paste, with olive oil, red onions, and tomatoes.

3rd Course

Yellowtail sashimi in a crispy “Indian” shell. I didn’t describe it as Indian, the waiter did. Not sure why it was characterized that way though…

I bet you’re thinking “oh, these courses look small and manageable.”  All I have to say to you is JUST YOU WAIT.

4th Course

Beef tartare, with mint and almonds

5th Course

Tiny corned beef slider.

6th Course

Polenta, with asparagus, mushrooms, truffle oil and parmesan cheese, served in a jar .

And now, onto the main courses.  Fortune favors those who don’t give up…

7th Course – Mains

Sea bass, mussels, with chick peas and a tahini Moroccan stew.

7th Course at Machneyuda Continues..

From courses 1-7, I had finished everything that you see before you.  And then more arrives and I am at a loss for words.  But if I had to describe it in one word, it would be MEAT.

Seventh course, part B. Lamb, rib eye, sitting on a leak, with mashed potatoes

Seventh course, part C. Beef.. something..and I don’t remember anymore. meat coma.

Are you alive still?  I barely am, reliving this experience through photos.  Are there more courses?  Of course! 

Dessert

I don’t know anymore!!! All I will say is that coconut ice cream in the lower left hand corner was SUPER FROZEN and did not melt, even when I ate it at the very end. Everything was delicious. Too. Delicious. Too. Much. Food.

Somewhere within the courses was another free round of shots, this time with Ouzo or Rakia…

Parting Thoughts on Machneyuda

Even though my dinner buddy did not order the tasting menu, her courses were equally as large, and we both were so full and satisfied by the end.  And I am so glad we met! 

Machneyuda was a fun dining experience to review, and it certainly lived up to the expectation of being the best restaurant in Jerusalem! 

The rest of the restaurant was so lively with loud music, dancing from random people (living their best life), free shots and amazing food.  And sorry for the dark photos!

I’ll end it here, with me and my new friend, S.  I need a nap after this post. 🙂

Looking for something more low key? How about an introduction to Israel’s Street Food, from Anda at Travel for a While.

Restaurant Information

Machneyuda | map
Beit Ya’akov St 10,
Jerusalem, Israel
Closed: Friday dinner, Saturday lunch
Phone: +972 2-533-3442
Reservations – highly recommended!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/