From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

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3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you are pressed for time, flying into the Islay Airport is definitely an option, via regular flights from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair.  However, it can be a little pricey for the cost-conscious, and can cost an average of 150£ for a round trip, per person.

And before you ask, nope! There are no Glasgow to Islay train options!

So, onwards to the public transportation option to Islay!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Cost breakdown on getting to Islay from Glasgow, by bus & ferry

By using only public transport to Islay, it will cost you from 69 GBP round trip (without a car) from Glasgow, with the most expensive part being the bus. 

1. Bus 500 from Glasgow airport to Glasgow central: 9£ – one way (14.80£ discounted return);
2. Bus 926 from Glasgow to Kennacraig: 22.40£ – one way
   • 💡Expert tip: the return ticket is only 1£ more, so buy them both at the same time to save money!
   • You must book the bus in advance;
3. CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen / Port Askaig: 7.10£ per person – one way
   • (or if you are driving from Glasgow to Kennacraig, and taking your car on the ferry: the passenger ticket, plus 35.55£ – one way)

So, for one person, the one way cost from Glasgow airport to Islay is: 38 GBP! Pretty good, right?

While Islay is accessible from other points across Scotland, this post mainly focuses on taking public transport to Islay from Glasgow.  Glasgow is the major hub to us Ileachs (what we call local folks on Islay), and the place where most of us go for our mainland fix.  Don’t get me wrong, island life is an absolute delight, but sometimes you want a little break from village life.  Anyway, I digress.

2. How to get to Islay from Glasgow

Step 1: Glasgow airport to Glasgow City Center

Bus 500 is a regular bus line going from Glasgow airport to a handful of stops to Glasgow city center.  I’ve taken this bus several times, and it’s always a super convenient and easy going journey.  All new buses, with wifi and USB ports at each seat, it’s your luxury liner direct from airport to city center.

When you’re exiting the airport, there should be signs for the bus (turn left) and there it will be – in Stance (or bay) 1.  There aren’t many buses outside so you really can’t miss it.  The bus costs 9£ one way, and can be paid via contactless card on the bus itself.  You can also buy an open-ended return ticket for 14.80£.

These tickets don’t need to be purchased ahead of time, but if you want to save 0.50 – 0.80£ (depending on one-way or return ticket), download the First Bus App and book your tickets there.

Stops in Glasgow central include:

• Bothwell Street
• Bothwell Street at Hope Street (near Central Station)
• George Square at Queen Street Station
• North Hanover Street
• Buchanan Bus Station

For comparison, a one-way taxi between Glasgow airport costs between 20 – 25£, so if you are more than one person, this may be an easier option. 

If you’re going direct from the airport to Glasgow central to start your public transport journey to Islay, then head over to the Buchanan Bus Station.

If you happen to be arriving to Glasgow airport before 14:00 and want to go directly to the bus to Kennacraig, bus 926 swings by the Glasgow airport daily only at 14:20, and you can cut out the first step. When you exit the airport, instead of turning left for Bus 500, turn right and head down to Stance 10 for Bus 926. Remember, only at 14:20 and only once a day. I would suggest you book a ticket in advance on CityLink. Tickets are released 2 months before the travel date.

Hotel options near Glasgow Airport

There are a few hotels within walking distance to Glasgow Airport. I’ve stayed at most of them, so here are the closest recommendations:

– Courtyard Marriott Glasgow Airport – for me, this is the best option – as it is the newest and cleanest. It’s a little farther away, approx 7-8 minutes walking, but it’s worth it, especially if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member like I am.
– Holiday Inn Glasgow Airport – the closest airport hotel. You walk out of the terminal and cross the street, and under 1 minute, you’re there. Down side is that it can be a little dated and musty inside.
– Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport – I’ve never stayed here because it’s often sold out, but from the website it looks relatively new. Distance wise, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the terminal.

Step 2: Buchanan Bus Station to Kennacraig

Step 2 on getting to Islay from Glasgow: Take the bus to Kennacraig from Buchanan Bus Station

Ok, your bus tickets from Glasgow to Kennacraig must be booked in advance.  To book, go to the CityLink website.  Bus 926, the Glasgow to Campbeltown bus, takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes to get to Kennacraig, where your public transport journey to Islay continues by boat. 

Check the time boards at Buchanan bus station to know which bus bay (or stance) bus 926 departs from. The few times I took it, it departed from Stance 55.

The buses are luxury coaches, with bigger luggage going underneath. There is a bathroom at the back of the bus, but I never saw anyone use it. Sometimes there’s wifi, although it’s been hit or miss on my trips. Some seats have a USB port to charge your phone, but not all of them do. These are the old USB cables, not the new USB-C.

The three-hour bus ride includes driving alongside Loch Lomond and through the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. During the journey, there is one 10 minute “comfort stop” (about 2 hours in) in Inveraray.  For those of you who want to pronounce this, break it down and say it slowly: IN-VER-RARE-EE. Whew, these Scottish names are tricky!

Inveraray is a touristy former royal burgh famous for a beautiful castle and a historic jail (separate buildings but nonetheless an odd combination of things Inveraray is famous for).  I say it’s a tourist town because, maybe you’ll have to queue for the bathrooms.  There should be time to go use the loo, or get a coffee, but likely not both.

Sometimes the public toilets at Inveraray cost money, and on those days, coins are your friend. But quite possibly, 90% of the time I’ve visited, they are open and free.

One time, the bus started to drive off and a passenger alerted the bus driver to someone who wasn’t back yet.  He doesn’t count passengers before he departs, so stay alert!

If you look on CityLink, some of the bus routes intentionally include a long break in Inveraray for you to go sightseeing. I’m usually trying to catch the ferry to Islay as early as possible, so I’m not really up for a break. But if you are, it is one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland – and the home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll!

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From Inveraray, there’s only one hour before you reach the ferry port at Kennacraig. If you haven’t printed out your tickets, stop in the ticket office to grab your ticket.

The buses will get you to Kennacraig (ferry port) with about 30 minutes to spare before your ferry. 

Step 3: Ferry to Islay

How to get to Islay by Ferry

When choosing which ferry to Islay to book, know that there are two different ports: Port Askaig (pronounced ASK-kee) and Port Ellen.

I once had a friend, who is English, ask me: are you sure it’s not ASK-KEG? (suggesting an Anglicized pronounciation). I am 100% positive. The word “Askaig” has Norse and Scottish Gaelic roots and is pronounced ASK-kee. 🙂

The car ferry to Islay is run by CalMac Ferries, and genuinely, when the ferries run, I’ve always had a good trip. I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, even if you are only a foot passenger. Nowadays, you pretty much should book everything in advance.

Choosing your port entirely depends on where you’re staying and also whether you have a car or not. Islay buses only run from 8 am – 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. So if you’re coming in the early or late ferry, make taxi arrangements in advance!

The official CalMac Ferry Timetables for their 2024 summer sailings have not been released yet, so be patient!

– Port Askaig

From Port Askaig, you would need to time the Islay bus or a taxi to get to where you’re going. Definitely book a taxi in advance, as they’re not waiting at the ferry port for happenstance passengers.

The only hotel near Port Askaig is the Port Askaig Hotel. Besides that, you are near Caol Ila Distillery (reopened in 2022!), Ardnahoe Distillery, and Bunnahabhain Distillery. These three distilleries located are 30 min, 1 hour, and 1.5 hour walking distance (respectively) from the Port Askaig ferry port. FYI, if we’re on that side of the island, my favorite thing to do is the Warehouse 9 Tasting at Bunnahabhain!

If you’re staying in the Rhinns of Islay, near Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich, then Port Askaig is more convenient / closer arrival port for your Islay adventures.

*Note, located in the middle of Islay, Bowmore is equidistant from both Port Askaig and Port Ellen.

– Port Ellen

The other ferry port, Port Ellen, is located on the southern tip of Islay. Of the two, Port Ellen is supposedly the bigger port, but personally, I don’t see it.

If you make Port Ellen your base, it’s easy to get around without a car – you’d be able to walk to the Islay House Hotel (if you’re staying there), and Sea Salt for a lovely meal. The three “Southern peaty” distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) are all within walking distance from Port Ellen, taking 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 1 hour, respectively. But that’s not all in Port Ellen – don’t forget the soon-to-be-reopened Port Ellen Distillery, the new Portintruan Distillery (still under construction), and the new Islay Rum!

3. Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve walked you through on how to get to Islay from Glasgow using public transport, you are off on your Islay adventures! For a 36£ one way trip and total travel time of 6 hours, getting to Islay from Glasgow it’s not too bad!

• 3 of those hours are on the bus, with a little break in between,
• and 2.5 hours are on the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay.

If you’re concerned about the bus-to-ferry transfer, it is *mostly* linked. I can’t make any guarantees for the winter timetable, but in the summer during tourist season, the bus to ferry transfer is usually seamless!

• That means, when you board the bus and tell the driver you’re going to Kennacraig, the ferry is made aware of how many passengers are arriving by bus.
• But if there are significant delays, since the bus runs on the regular Campbeltown-Glasgow route, it will have to keep going. I’ve never experienced this, but don’t be afraid, you won’t be the only person in need of help. The best advice I can give you is, be friendly and band together!
• Similarly, if you are leaving Islay on the ferry and are catching the bus into Glasgow, the bus (mostly) waits for the ferry! If the ferry is delayed, they will make an announcement to ask for any passengers taking the bus to Glasgow.

There is also no reason to arrive to Kennacraig super early and wait. A ferry transfer is not like a flight! Arrive before the “check in closes” time on your ticket, and you’ll be fine! Kennacraig is not a town, it is a ferry terminal and the only things available there are:

• (1) bathrooms,
• (2) one hot-drinks vending machine, and
• (3) the ticket office, if you haven’t picked up your ticket!

For those who are pressed for time, the quickest way to Islay is to fly. The flight from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair takes about 30 – 40 minutes, and is super convenient. But it drives up the price, and is prone to cancellations due to low visibility. So if you have a bit of time, taking public transport to Islay is well worth it.

Just a friendly reminder that because Islay is an island, sometimes you physically cannot get there any faster due to the ferry or flight timings. So remember, slow down and enjoy the ride – you’re on island time now!

• For help planning your Islay trip and ideas on activities and wonderful places to eat, I’ve detailed all of that in my Ultimate Islay Guide.
• And if you’re looking for a whisky experience in Glasgow before you head off, look no further than the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s member room on Bath Street in central Glasgow. If you’re not a member, don’t worry – keep your eyes out for non-member whisky tasting events! You won’t regret it!
• If you’d rather not take public transport to Islay, why not visit Islay with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s Islay & the Whisky Isles 4-day Tour comes highly recommended!
  • If you need to negotiate a whisky tour with your better half, consider offering an Outlander tour to help with the bargaining 😉
• Connecting to Glasgow from elsewhere in Scotland? Take ScotRail to Glasgow Queen Street, and you can pick up Bus 500 around the corner at Hanover Street (look for a purple Bus 500 sign near the Costa Coffee).
• If you need to store some luggage before heading to Islay, there are several temporary luggage storage options around Glasgow Central. For only 5 GBP per bag per day,
• Coming to Scotland from London? Why not arrive to Glasgow via an overnight luxury sleeper train on the Caledonian Sleeper from London. Arrive well rested and ready to travel to Islay! If you’re looking for a review on this overnight train for Scotland, look no further! I’ve reviewed it for you HERE.
• Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Islay whisky, you’ll have to love Islay rain!
  • The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
  • The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) to go pouncing around Islay’s peat bogs is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber, these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
    • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Now you know that, despite living on a seemingly remote island, getting to Islay from Glasgow is relatively easy and straight forward. Until you grace the shores of my fair isle, I bid you adieu and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

There are many tours that will take you there or renting a car is certainly an option.  But going from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus for a day trip is completely doable, quite easy to do, and incredibly cost effective! So, if you’re up for an adventure, read on! I’ll give step-by-step instructions on how to go from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus.

1. Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Buying bus tickets from Zagreb to Plitvice is easy enough.  A roundtrip ticket on Arriva, was 112 kuna | < $18 USD  | 15 EUR.  My 5:45 am departure (which arrived shortly after 8 am) meant that I’d have to leave my Airbnb around 5 am, in order to arrive early enough to figure things out…just in case.  My ticket was emailed to me as a PDF and included the platform number (#405), and sure enough, there it was.  Large luggage will cost you 10 kuna to put underneath the bus. My large 50 L backpack was fine as a “carry on.”  And then we were off! From Zagreb to Plitvice by bus!

There are 2-3 ten minute stops along the way, but I never left the bus fearing a) losing my seat, and b) the bus leaving without me.

Along the way, you drive through small villages and if you look closely, you can see sprays of bullet holes covering the village houses.  Rising ethnic tensions between Croatians and Serbs sparked with the death of a Croatian army commander.  The result was the Croatian War for Independence, which began in Plitvice, late March 1991.  Both sides had only 1 death each, during the “Plitvice Incident” or the “Plitvice Bloody Easter”, with over 20 wounded and 400 tourists evacuated.

2. Arriving at Plitvice Lakes

After a little over two sleepy hours on the bus, we finally made it from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes. So excited!

Plitvice Lakes has been a national park since after WWII, and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979.  After the Croatian War for Independence, the parks were swept for mines and all of the remaining mines were removed.  Over 1 million people visit the park annually.

When I went to Plitvice in June, the cost of admission for adults was 150 kuna | < $24 USD | 20 EUR.  In July and August (the country’s high season), that jumps to 250 kuna | $40 USD | 34 EUR if you enter before 16:00.

2.1 Entrances to Plitvice

There are two entrances to Plitvice, smartly named Entrance 1 and Entrance 2.  The bus driver will call out the entrances to the passengers.  Depending on what you want to see in the park, different entrances lead to different attractions. The side of the road where you exit the bus is the same side of the road as the entrance to the NP. 

And remember, that means at the end of the day, when you’re waiting to catch the bus back to Zagreb, the bus stop is on the opposite of the road.

2.2 Hiking Plitvice Lakes – Choose your walking program!

You can go hiking in Plitvice Lakes either for a leisurely walk, or an immense (almost) 20 km hike! The national park has 8 different “lake tour programmes”, with the “K” programme being the longest at 18.3 km, with an estimated completion time of 6-8 hours.  I was able to finish in about 5 hours, with breaks in between.

EXPERT TIP: MAKE SANDWICHES AND BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER.  
There are long stretches with no food or water.

3. The Long Hike – “K programme”

It’s always strange going on a long hike on your own.  Granted, there were other people around, because most of the various lake programmes criss-cross each other and overlap.  But I guess not many people wanted an ambitious “Hiking Plitvice Lakes Day.” There were very few people on the “full K programme.” Most of the trail was on wooden planks along or over the water, and when the K goes off into the green wooded area, there are easy to follow paths.

From P3 (around the middle of the map), I had to take off my shoes and cross over a small section in the water.

And from there towards where it continues well into the green, I met one person and one dog on the K trail.  (The dog did not belong to the person). 

4. Not alone at Plitvice anymore!

At some point, hours later, I met C and K, who were two travelers from Canada and they graciously agreed to let me walk with them.  They were also doing the K programme, but started at Entrance 2. Hiking Plitvice Lakes alone – mmm, ok on the fun level. Hiking Plitvice Lakes with fun people – even better!

5. Thoughts on Hiking Plitvice Lakes

The hike ended with a short 5 minute ferry across the water (gushing towards the finish line!) Ok, maybe not such an exciting finish. But, I will say hiking Plitvice Lakes was an amazing way to see so many of the waterfalls. Plus, being off the beaten path was a great way to avoid the mass of tourists. 

Small warning, though… every time you are about to come across a waterfall, the crowds increase and the pace slows, as everyone tries to pose for a picture.  It can get mildly overwhelming.

I finished the hike around 13:30, and was able to catch an earlier bus back to Zagreb.  In the morning, the bus from Zagreb to Plitvice dropped me off next to the entrance. The bus going back is on the opposite side of the road.

Luckily, I had some time to buy an ice cream before the bus arrived. The bus left around 14:45, and I was able to make it back in Zagreb for a shower and amazing dinner.

So in the end, if you love to walk, enjoy waterfalls and crystal clear waters, PLITVICE IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.  Especially if you’re alread in Zagreb, the bus to Plitvice is easy and a completely manageable day trip!

Add it to the bucket list!

6. Resources on going from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Bus tickets and schedules
Sample Zagreb to Plitvice bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 5:45 am – 8:08 am
• 6:30 am – 8:40 am
• 7:30 am – 9:45 am
• 8:30 am – 11:07 am
• 9:15 am – 11:30 am

Sample Plitvice back to Zagreb bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 2:45 pm – 5:05 pm
• 3:45 pm – 5:55 pm
• 5:18 pm – 7:50 pm

Information on Hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park and entrance fees:

• Lake walking programme description and maps
• Price list

REMEMBER BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER

Recap on my Zagreb to Plitvice Day

5:45 am Bus leaves from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
8:10 am: Arrival at Plitvice, Entrance 1
<< walk walk walk walk walk walk walk >>
1:30 pm: Make it back to Entrance 1
2:45 pm: Bus to Zagreb
3 pm: Rain, and feeling thankful to be on a bus and on the way home.  The man I encountered on the K trail, with the dog that was not his, went back to Zagreb on the same bus.
5:15 pm: Arrive in Zagreb
6:30 pm: Finish shower and eat amazing food at Pri Zvoncu
8:30 pm: Sleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. How to get to Lake Bohinj from Bled

The buses leave from the Bled bus station at 20 minutes past the hour.  We took the 9:20 bus, on another charter bus, over to the lake which took about 45 min.  The price of the bus depends on where you get dropped off. Our stop was Ukanc (pronounced, I think, like oo-CONCH), which cost us 4,10 EUR | $4.75 USD. Normally during high season, July and August, the bus runs once an hour and drops you off near most of the main sights.  It being not high season, meant that there was more walking involved.  Way more walking. 

There is an extremely complicated, yet accurate bus schedule here, from Bled to Bohinj.  There legend is extremely detailed, so make sure you are looking at the right column, for the right season, and the right day of the week.

2. Ukanc and uphill to Savica Waterfall

We stopped off at Ukanc, which was the closest stop to the Savica Waterfall, in low season.  And by closest stop, it was still a 50-minute uphill trek, along the side of the only road going up there.  If you’re lucky enough to go in high season and take the bus to the closer stop, obviously it would not take this long.  So off we went. 

I’m so thankful that J was a good sport and trekked everywhere, without any real complaining.  I say real complaining, because part of the amusement during our walk was semi-complaining. Semi-complaining that people who passed us by in their cars never offered to give two random women a ride. Even considering we were obviously going in the same direction, to the same place.  But never mind.

After about an hour (considering breaks to catch our breath and stops for photos), we finally arrived at a parking lot, two restaurants, and a sign that said the waterfall was another 20-minute walk.  More uphill, but this time, with stairs. 

3. Savica Waterfalls

Along the way, there is a little hut to pay the entrance fee (shown below), which was 3 EUR for adults.  All things considering, not a bad price, and definitely worth it.

When we finally reached the falls, there was only 5-10 people up there.  I guess since it was still the low season, it was to be expected.  Near the top, there are also viewpoints out across Lake Bohinj, where you can obviously see the valley formed by ancient glaciers.

Quick facts about the Savica Waterfall (from its brochure that I picked up):

• Height above sea level, at base: 894 m | 2,934 ft
• Two-part waterfall in the form of the letter A
• Height of the large waterfall: 78 m | 256 ft
• Height of the small waterfall: 25 m | 82 ft

4. Lunch stop at Koča Pri Savici

After the falls, we stopped by one of the nearby restaurants for some lunch.  Traditional Slovenian sausage and fries, served with the biggest ketchup and mustard containers known to mankind.

The sausages were delicious and the server was so friendly and talkative.

He asked if we had walked up here via the road or the back path. We came by the road. He encouraged us to take the back path on our way back down, which was shorter.  In reality, it may have been shorter, by mere minutes, but we took more photo breaks and of course, this was downhill. J was smart enough to ask the question, “Will we get lost?”  He laughed a little and said

“Not a chance.  Keep following the sound of the river.” 

And it’s true, we definitely did not get lost. But the sound of the river dissipated after time.  But there was really only one way to go, and after another hour, we had arrived back near Ukanc and the banks of the lake.

4.1 Pause and marvel at Lake Bohinj

5. The long meander to Mostnica Gorge

The next destination was the Mostnica Gorge.  Again, we could have taken the bus. However, it only runs once an hour. So we decided to walk, since it would take about an hour get there. 

From the very west bank of Lake Bohinj (where Ukanc is), to the very east bank of the lake, we walked.  We made some stops along the lake, at a beach and then a pier where we sat for a few moments to rest and enjoy the scenery.  We finally arrived at Stara Fuzina, a small village, which is more or less the gateway to the Mostnica Gorge.

5.1 Stara Fuzina

5.2 Onward to Mostnica Gorge

There were some confusing signs at times. If you followed them, I’m not sure where you would have ended up.  Very likely, you would have ended up at the gorge.  However, we decided to follow Google Maps, which had not led me astray thus far.  We were not entirely sure what we were looking fo. The word gorge really only tells me it’s a very big hole in the ground.  We finally arrived at a booth. The entrance fee was 3 EUR, but the booth was unmanned.  So free entrance it was!  At the booth, there was a fork in the road.

After much indecision, we decided to fork right. There were some other travelers following us and they forked left.  Let me tell you, forking right was the right decision.  Because of this, we accessed large rocks and took some amazing photographs, while they painstakingly looked for a way to cross to our side.  They did not do in the end. I would not have recommended anyway, for safety reasons.  Views below, when you fork right.

We kept walking, trying to figure out where this gorge was. When we arrived according to Google Maps, there was nothing.  We walked on another 20 minutes, but then we realized that the path we were on was no longer marked by a yellow circle and was now a red square.  At that point, we decided enough was enough, and we turned around.  In the end, we realized that the gorge was right inside of the unmanned booth, on the bridge when we forked right.  Suffice it to say, the scenery along the way was absolutely gorgeous and well worth the additional trek.

6. The bus back to Bled

The bus that goes back to Bled leaves at the :47 after every hour, except for at 5:47 pm. Obviously, this is right around the time when we arrived at the bus stop.  I think most people were surprised that there was no 5:47 bus. But not me, thanks to the trusty yet confusing bus schedule.  After some relaxing and a well deserved Magnum ice cream, we hitched the 6:47 pm bus (for 3,40 EUR | $4 USD) and was back in Bled by 7:30 pm. 

According to my Apple Watch, I walked 33,000 steps that day… a personal best.  That amounted to about 16 miles or 25 km.  Exhausting, doable, and extremely worth it.  This beautiful day trip to Lake Bohinj is a must for those wanting to reconnect with nature and those who love exploring foreign national parks like I do!

Resources for Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

If you’d like to visit Lake Bohinj from Lake Bled, check out the bus schedule

Other things to see, in the Bohinj region, which we didn’t have time for:

• Cable car up to Vogel
• Hike up to Pec (about 45 min)

Approximate Schedule for the Lake Bohinj Day

• 8:20 am: Bus from Bled to Ukanc
• 10:10 am: Arrive at Ukanc bus stop, begin walking
• 11:30 am: Savica Waterfall
• << walking >>
• 1 pm: Lunch at Koča Pri Savici
• <<more walking>>
• 4:30 pm: near Mostnica Gorge
• 6:47 pm: bus back to Bled
• 7:30 pm: arrive back to Bled
• 8 pm: I’m asleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

After having the most amazingly, relaxing day, my friend and I had an easy going Sunday with a walk in and around Budapest. We started our walk by the Hungarian Parliament, en route to our breakfast destination, Piknik. 

1. Breakfast at Piknik

Piknik is a small cafe, with a nice outdoor seating area, and serves mostly baguettes, tarts, and fruit smoothies.  I had a delicious prosciutto baguette, with cucumbers.  The cucumbers were a welcome addition.

2. Walk along the Danube River

After breakfast, we strolled along the Danube River, in search of a memorial I missed the last time I visited.  The Shoes on the Danube Bank.  Located almost in front of the Hungarian Parliament, this memorial, conceived by director Can Togay and sculpted by Gyula Pauer, is made up of 60 iron shoes of the WWII era.

As the plaque states, this is a memorial to the victims of the Arrow Cross Militiamen.  The memorial pays tribute to the over 3,500 people (of them, around 800 were Jewish), shot with arrows on the banks of the Danube.  They were instructed to remove their shoes and their bodies were washed away by the river after being shot.

Watch this video on YouTube.

To me, traveling is not just about seeing the beautiful and Instagram-worthy.  There is much to be learned about the history of a place, and recognizing that we can learn from the mistakes of the past…

3. St. Stephen’s Basilica

From there, it was a short walk to St. Stephen’s Basilica, named for King Stephen, first King of Hungary.  You can also go inside for a guided tour and, if you’d like, go up to the top for views across the city (for a fee).  We didn’t go in, since it was Sunday, there was mass being held.

4. Dohany Street Synagogue

We also passed by the Dohany Street Synagogue, or the Great Synagogue, which is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world.  It also houses a museum and cemetery, well as a Heroes Temple.

5. Szimpla Kert, a ruin bar

There is so much to see, walking around this city.  But our actual destination was Szimpla Kert, or the first ruin bar in Budapest.  Ruin bars began around 2001, when a group of men were looking for a cheap place to drink.  Old, derelict buildings and abandoned spaces were transformed into casual places to hang out and drink.  Szimpla Kert, in addition to being a bar, also hosts farmers markets in this quirky and fun space.  When we went on Sunday, the market was being held there and it was overrun with tourists clamoring to take photos.  There’s plenty of places to sit, and a little restaurant upstairs, with more seating there as well.

We decided to buy some cheese and fresh strawberries from the vendors, and sit and people watch for the better part of 2 hours.

LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL THIS STRAWBERRY IS.  So shiny and healthy.  Sweet and red.  Unlike strawberries in America, they may be smaller in size, but they make up for it in their burst of flavor.  Also, has anyone ever noticed, strawberries in America are white on the inside??? Hungarian strawberries, amazing! American strawberries, needs work.

6. Parliament Building

And then, it was back to the Parliament building, where we had parked the car, and back to the bus station as my weekend came to a close.  My apologies for not taking photos of everything I ate this trip.  I was really trying to live in the moment, which I will discuss in a later post.  It was a beautiful weekend, with a beautiful friend!

Day 2 recap: a relaxing walk in Budapest

• 8:30 am: Breakfast at Piknik | map
• 9:30 am: Walk along the Danube and view Shoes on the Danube Bank | map
• 10 am: Walking by St. Stephen’s Basilica and Dohány Street Synagogue
• 11 am: Strawberry, cheese, and people watching at Szimpla Kert | map
• 1 pm: Enjoy the parks around Hungarian Parliament again | map
• 2:30 pm: Bus back to Vienna!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Bus from Vienna to Budapest

I took RegioJet, roundtrip, for a total of 18 EUR | 21 USD.  The trip was comfortable, with a free hot beverage and movies/tv shows to watch.  The bus leaves from Stadion Bus Center (near the U2 Stadion stop) and arrives at Kelenfold in Budapest.

2. Arrival into Budapest

I bet you didn’t know, Budapest is a city split into two by the river.  Long ago, the city was two separate cities – Buda to the left of the river, and Pest to the right. The bus arrives on the Buda side. My friend’s apartment, on the other hand, is way over on the Pest side.  Normally, I would have taken the metro to her place, but there was some construction on the metro lines by her flat, so taxi it was.

From her place, we walked over to Margaret Island (Margit-sziget), which is an island in the Danube with plentiful parks and trees.  We strolled to the tip of Margaret Island, where we caught a public transportation river boat service (the BKK Boat Service) down towards the Buda Castle.  On weekdays, you can use your Budapest public transportation ticket to ride on the BKK for free.  Unfortunately, on weekends, you need to buy a separate ticket, for 750 HUF | 2.75 USD.

3. Lunch at Czako Kert

From the Buda Castle stop, we walked along the Buda side, uphill to our brunch spot.  For the geographically curious, the Buda side has hills, whereas the Pest side is flat.  We stopped at Czako Kert, a lovely little cafe with garden, which also houses a farmers market on the weekends.

4. Rudas Bath – the ultimate relaxation!

It was a short downhill walk after lunch to Rudas Bath.  Coming from a few weeks of grueling classes, I suggested we visit a thermal baths.  The famous bath, Szechenyi Baths, was renovating one of their outdoor pools, so we decided on Rudas Bath.  Originally built in the 1500s as a Turkish Bath, Rudas Bath has since expanded to include restaurants, a rooftop jacuzzi with panoramic views, and various different pools.  We paid for the “all in” ticket, which included access to all of their different baths and wellness areas, for 6,200 HUF | 23 USD | 19 EUR.  And there we stayed, for hours on hours on hours. 

I didn’t take any photos. To be honest, I just really wanted to relax and break free from everything.  That didn’t stop other people from doing full on photo-shoots inside the baths. However, to each his own! The baths were amazingly relaxing. Visiting a bath is an absolute must!!

5. Sunset and Dinner at Hadik Cafe

After we finished, after hours of baths, we watched the sun set along the river. Absolute starving and now en route to dinner.  It’s funny how you can work up an appetite when doing absolutely nothing.

From Rudas, we went to the Hadik Cafe, which is a legendary cafe where famous Hungarian writers used to hang out.  On the weekends, it has live music in the evenings.  The inside is pretty quirky, but it’s a fun atmosphere.

I ordered a delicious Spinach “főzelék” (a Hungarian stew), paired with a Hungarian craft beer, Monkey Temple.

By the end of dinner, we were both so exhausted, and in need of sleep! We literally got back to her apartment, showered, and immediately said good night. I love being totally on the same wavelength!

Stay tuned for the conclusion to my short 36 hours in Budapest..

Day 1 recap

• 7:25 am: Regiojet, Depart from Vienna (U2 Stadion) | map
• 10:15 am: Arrive Budapest Kelenfold bus station | map
• 11 am – 1 pm: walking on Margaret Island, boat ride to Buda Castle
• 1:30 pm: Lunch at Czako Kert | map
• 3 – 8:30 pm: Rudas Baths | map
• 9 pm: Dinner at Hadik Cafe | map

Go on to Day 2

Looking for a foodie adventure in Budapest?

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/