1. Arriving and Getting Around Colonsay

Colonsay is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located off of the western coast of mainland Scotland. It is directly north of Islay and south of Mull. Being an island, Colonsay is only accessible by ferry or by airplane.

1.1 Arrival in Colonsay by Ferry

• Islay to Colonsay by ferry – Ferry service on Wednesday and Saturdays on the Summer Timetable (March/April to October), and takes 70 minutes from Port Askaig. Upcoming winter timetables not yet published, but likely have reduced sailings.
  • The ferry departs Port Askaig (Islay) at 12:15, arrives Colonsay at 13:25. If you’re only doing a day trip, you’ll get a full 6 hours on Colonsay.
  • The return ferry departs Colonsay at 19:35 and returns to Port Askaig at 20:45.
  • Fare for vehicle: 34.30 GBP (return)
  • Adult fare: 6.90 GBP (return).
  • For me, since I brought a car, that was a combined total of 41.20 GBP / $59 USD return trip.
  • If you’re going from Islay to Colonsay, you’ll get a view of the three northern distilleries on Islay on your way out – Caol Ila, Ardnahoe and Bunnahabhein, as well as the Paps of Jura!
• Oban to Colonsay by ferry (mainland Scotland) – Daily ferry service (Summer timetable) and takes appropriately 2+ hours. Winter sailings are reduced to 4x a week.
  • Ferry departure and arrival times vary depending on the day of the week.
  • Fare for vehicle: 79.80 GBP (return)
  • Adult fare: 15.60 GBP (return)

Although Colonsay only 10 miles long by 2 miles wide, a car is not necessary. Many people say the best way to explore the island is by bike. But for me, I brought my car due to my limited time on Colonsay.

1.2 Arrive in Colonsay by Air

Hebridean Air currently services Colonsay, from Oban. Flights are on Thursdays, and regardless of summer or winter, Hebridean Air operates 2 flights per day.

• Depending on which flight you take that day, fares are either 32.50 GBP or 67 GBP each way. Return trips therefore range between 65 GBP to 130 GBP. Bookings can be done online.

1.3 Getting around Colonsay

As far as my research could tell me, taxis and rental cars are not available on Colonsay, which is part of the reason I suggested you bring a car onto the ferry with you. However, walking holidays are quite popular on Colonsay, as are biking holidays.

1.3.1 By bike or paddle board

Bikes are available to rent from Colonsay Bikes and Boards. Bike rental for adults are 15 GBP per day, or 70 GBP per week. Bikes will be delivered to your accommodation or anywhere on the island (i.e. ferry terminal). There is a delivery charge of 5 GBP. The bike rental includes a helmet for safety and an island map! Just so you have a slight indication of size, it takes 1-2 hours to bike around the whole island, with a few big hills.

While I do recommend a car on your Colonsay trip, be sure you’re comfortable driving on single track roads. You often share the road with sheep, cattle, cyclists, and pedestrians. While there are plenty of passing places, many tourists use these as stopping places – avoid doing this! Passing places are there for a reason.

Also, due to the high number of wildife and animals on Colonsay, don’t honk your horn! You’ll freak out the animals.

1.4.1 See the best things in Colonsay by foot

There are plenty of great walks to go on when in Colonsay. Unfortunately, I just didn’t have the time. However, there are several walks between 2 – 5 miles long that can be enjoyed. I mean, given that the entire island is 10 miles by 2 miles wide, you could walk everywhere if you wanted. While driving through the island, I definitely saw several people walking from place to place. With single track roads and a small island, its hard to miss the walkers!

So now that you can get around, here are the best things to do in Colonsay. Although I wasn’t able to do everything on the list below, I will next time!

2. The Best things to do in Colonsay

2.1 Enjoy a gorgeous beach at Kiloran Bay

Many people don’t realize that the Hebrides has some of the most stunning beaches in the world. Fine sandy beaches, with turquoise and blue waters. Many people liken them to beaches in the Caribbean, but geologically, the Hebridean beaches are older. So really, Caribbean beaches are actually like Hebridean beaches. Remember that next time you’re in Jamaica or the Bahamas. Ok, possibly the only dfference is the sunshine and warmth. The day I visited was sunny and .. not warm enough for a swim. But, it would have been perfect for a beach day with a picnic, enjoying the view.

Located in the northern part of Colonsay, surprise! It’s gorgeous.

2.2 Colonsay Gin tasting at Wild Thyme Distillery

Neighboring Islay has its whisky, and Colonsay has its gin. With two gin distilleries on the island, I chose to visit Wild Thyme Distillery, located in the middle of the island. Wild Thyme Distillery was started by Eileen and Finlay, who left life in Oxfordshire and moved to Colonsay. They distill a variety of spirits, primarily London Dry gin, as well as a vodka, a bramble (or blackberry for us Americans) liquer, and Cait Sith (an Old Tom style gin). For 10£, I took a tour of the wee distillery and tasted all of their gins on offer.

Like many small batch distilleries, Eileen and Finlay do everything themselves – from the distillation, to the bottling, and labeling. As tradition goes for gin distillers, their copper pot still has a name – she’s called Jinty.

Bottles of Colonsay Gin are so stunning, adorned with art nouveau-styled artwork of Alva, a mythical Celtic brownie (or spirit). Long ago, Alva’s Viking long boat crashed onto the rocky shores of Colonsay. She stumbled ashore and sought shelter at Tigh Na Uruisg (Wild Thyme Distillery HQ), where she still remains and helps in the magical transformation of botanicals into gin.

My thoughts on the tastings:

• Colonsay Gin – 47% ABV – two different ways – one with an orange garnish (to bring out the citrusy flavors), and one with a jalapeno pepper. The absolute wild thing to me, is that I actually liked it better with the pepper! I never would have guessed. It had such a spicy, fresh kick. I absolutely loved it.
• Cait Sith (pronounced Caught Shee) – 40% ABV – an old Tom-style gin. For those who don’t know, that means its sweeter than your London Dry gin. This one had a rich vanilla flavor and was delightfully sweet.
• Bramble Liquer – fruity and sweet, and much lighter at 20% ABV. Delicious!!

Overall, it was a really fun visit to a small batch gin distillery. Eileen gave a great tour, and I loved hearing about their passion for gin. I came back with a couple bottles of my favorite gins, as well as the gorgeous “gin”saw puzzle and a few coloring books for those stressful days.

For those absolute gin fans, the Gin Lovers Retreat at Wild Thyme Distillery is for you! A weekend of gin and home cooked meals on the island of Colonsay. Offered Friday to Sunday! I cannot wait to book a gin retreat sometime!

Wild Thyme Distillery
email: info@wildthymespirits.com
phone: +44 1951 200082
Website: https://www.wildthymespirits.com/

2.3 Eat a phenomenal meal at the Colonsay Pantry

If you had one meal on Colonsay, make sure it’s at the Colonsay Pantry! Located next to the ferry terminal in Scalasaig, it’s the perfect spots to grab a bite before setting sail. My ferry back to Islay left at 7:35 pm, which meant that I had time for dinner. And, Wednesday and Saturdays are seafood night at the Pantry! So for those coming for a day trip from Islay – get ready for seafood night! Email them in advance and book your seafood platter. Otherwise, you may not get it!

Awarded the Scotsman Food and Drink’s Hidden Gem in 2019, the Pantry is one of those great meals that I will always remember. The seafood platter, which cost a cool 35£ for 1 person, was remarkably fresh and so incredible, and is included on my list of Best Seafood in Scotland!

Contents of my gorgeous seafood platter:

• salad
• shrimp
• oysters
• hot smoked salmon
• smoked mussels
• scallops
• crab
• steamed mussels (not pictured)
• battered cod bites (also not pictured)

Let me just say, I was hungry and I scarfed this down in a matter of minutes! Is it too much food for one person? Um, I’d say it is the perfect portion for one person!

The Colonsay Pantry also have different themed nights. In addition to Wednesday & Saturday Seafood Nights, Monday & Friday is Steak Night. The Pantry is closed on Tuesdays, so plan in advance or be in a world of regret!

The Colonsay Pantry
Email: mail@thecolonsaypantry.co.uk – book your dinners (especially seafood night) in advance! and, when the weather is wet!
Phone: +44 1951 200325
Website: https://www.thecolonsaypantry.co.uk/

2.4 Walk to Oronsay

Tidal islands are not something I’m familiar with, being an American from a landlocked state. For those who know, tidal islands are islands created with the ebb and flow of the tides. That means, there are times where you can walk to the island (if the tide is low), and others where you cannot (because the tide has risen and now there’s water in between your two locations). Oronsay is one of those islands, located about 2 miles off the coast of Colonsay, connected by “the Big Strand beach.”

According to the Colonsay website,

You will find that the best time to cross is in the two days following a New Moon or a Full Moon; low-water will be in the early afternoon and you may be able to take 4 or 5 hours over the round trip

Isle of Colonsay website

Besides lots of birdwatching on Oronsay, the main site on the island is the Oronsay Priory, a monastery which has been in existence since at least 1353. The Oronsay Priory, which was likely founded by John of Islay, Lord of the Isles, continued as a monastery until the Scottish Reformation around 1560. While ruins of the priory still stands, a 4-meter (12 feet) tall high cross, likely dated to 1510, is still intact and in relatively good condition given its age. If you’ve read my Islay post, another example of a high cross (from 8th century AD) is the Kildalton Cross.

If you’re coming on a day trip, visiting Oronsay is possible, but it may be one of the few things you get to do. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to walk to Oronsay, being the wrong time of the month. But, I did make it down to the Big Strand for a walk along the beach.

2.5 Visit small businesses in Scalasaig

I didn’t get to spend too much time in Scalasaig, but if I did, here are some of the businesses I would definitely check out:

• Sea Pink Gallery – Colonsay and sea-themed gifts and household goods. Something to look out for – Sea Pink Gallery sells Pot Still Yarns, in collaboration with their friends at Colonsay Gin. (What does gin have to do with wool yarn?) The yarns are dyed with the “spent botanicals, the distilling ‘tails’ and the bramble husks left after pressing” to natural, botanic-dyed wool yarn!
• Colonsay Bookshop – bookstore stocking Hebridean history and culture;
• The Old Waiting Room Gallery – an arts and crafts shop selling handmade goods from the island;
• Wild Island Distillery – distillery producing Wild Island Gin. I haven’t tried this but I will!
• Colonsay Hotel – stay at the only hotel on the island or grab a bite to eat in their gastro pub! (located just outside of Scalasaig).

3. Things for a longer stay in Colonsay

If you have the chance to stay on Colonsay for longer, here are some other things for you to do.

• The Colonsay House Gardens and Tea Room are known throughout Scotland for its rhododendron garden. Although day trippers from Islay won’t be able to visit – this season, they’re only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Entry costs 3 GBP ($4.25 USD). I did have a poke around, and although I could see no rhododendron from the outside, there were beautiful fields of bluebells and wild garlic all around.
• Go golfing (18 holes) at Machrins – Share the golf course with people, cows, and sheep alike, and golf like they did in the old days!
• Watch some wildlife! I know I’ve shown you sheep across the island, but Colonsay is actually home to a large variety of seabirds. Grab your binoculars and go bird watching!
• Visit during some of their incredible festivals:
  • Ceol Cholasa, Colonsay’s Music Festival – September
  • Autumn Food and Drink Festival – October
  • Colonsay Book Festival – April

Check the latest Colonsay Times for the latest opening dates and times. Not all businesses are open every day!

4. Places to stay on Colonsay

If you’re planning to stay longer than a day trip, there are a few options for accommodation on the island.

• Colonsay Hotel – the only hotel on the island, located outside of Scalasaig;
• The Gin Lovers Retreat at Wild Thyme Distillery – full board, including gin tastings and cocktails;
• self catering accommodations;
• wild camping;
• your own campervan / motorhome.

Please note that if you are wild camping or taking your campervan, overnight parking permits are required. For more detailed information, the Visit Colonsay site has all the available options.

5. Parting thoughts on my day trip to Colonsay

I think you can see how much I enjoyed my day trip to Colonsay. For a small island, with a little over 100 inhabitants, it really packs a punch. Although a day trip from Islay was short, I felt like I accomplished a lot during that time! Still makes me want to go back for more though. I’ve highlighted some of the best things to do in Colonsay, including things I wasn’t able to do, just in case I’ve inspired you to visit and stay longer!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Intro to the pyramid at Balmoral

This story starts at Balmoral Castle, a private residence of King Charles III. Prior to King Charles’ ascension to the throne, Balmoral was a favorite summer residence for Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth II passed away while on hoilday in Balmoral on September 8, 2022.

Back to Balmoral – it is a personal and private residence held in the royal family. This differs from Holyrood Palace, which is the British Monarch’s official residence in Scotland. You’ll often find the royal family at Balmoral during smmer holidays.

Back in 1852, Prince Albert (the beloved husband of Queen Victoria) purchased the castle and estate from the Farquharson family. The castle was soon deemed too small, and the current Balmoral Castle as you know it today was commissioned.

Queen Victoria was known for many things, but the things that stand out to me are:

• her longevity – she lived to be 81,
• her large family – by my count, she had 9 children,
• and her love for her husband, the prince consort.

Throughout Queen Victoria’s life, following their purchase of Balmoral, she began to erect stone cairns to commemorate the marriages of her children, and eventually the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.

2. But is a cairn a Scottish pyramid?

Not necessarily. A cairn (stemming from Scottish Gaelic word, càrn) is a man-made pile, or stack, of stones. Cairns have been around since pre-historic times and are still currently used as landmarks, often as trail markers, for commemorating events or deaths, or for ceremonial purposes.

Currently, there are 11 cairns erected in and around the Balmoral estate. 8 are to commemorate the marriages of most of her children. Why do I only say most? For unknown reasons, the Queen’s son, Prince Alfred is the only one who does not have a cairn dedicated to him. Most of these cairns are your quintessential man-made pile of stones, not quite your Scottish pyramid.

Ok, but why is there a pyramid in scotland? Obviously, the grandest of all the cairns, also known as the Balmoral Pyramid, is the one dedicated to the Queen’s husband, Prince Albert. The Prince Albert Cairn is the Scottish pyramid.

3. How to visit the Prince Albert Cairn?

The Balmoral Castle Estate sits inside Cairngorms National Park in the Eastern part of Scotland. The Scottish pyramid is located on the grounds of Balmoral Castle estate, in Royal Deeside, Aberdeenshire, in the Highlands. If you’re going to explore the area, it’s easiest to do so with a rental car. To visit,

3.1 Car Park for the Prince Albert Cairn

You don’t need to buy a ticket to Balmoral Castle in order to visit the Prince Albert Cairn – or any of the other cairns honestly. The only thing you need to pay for is parking. I can’t remember how much it was – maybe £2 – £4. It helps to have coins for the machine. But if not, easily fixable. You’ll just walk to the Balmoral Castle ticket office there and pay for parking. Be sure to walk back to your car and put the ticket in the window!

3.2 The first section / detour to Balmoral Castle

From the car park, you will cross a bridge over the River Dee. With the ticket office in front of you, (and Balmoral Castle to the right) turn left. This will start your path to the Prince Albert Cairn, also known as, your very first Scottish pyramid experience.

(Or, choose your own adventure! Detour to Balmoral Castle for an interesting audio guide, beautiful castle, and gorgeous gardens! Lots of walking trails on the grounds, as well – it’s worth the visit!)

The cost to visit Balmoral, based on their 2022 prices:

• Adult 16.50 GBP / 20 USD;
• Children 7.50 GBP / 9 USD.

Note: The real Balmoral Castle is not the filming location for Balmoral in Netflix’s The Crown. That was filmed in Ardverikie Estate (about 2 hours away).

4. Hiking the Prince Albert Cairn loop at Balmoral

You’ll notice the title of this section starts with “Hiking”. I mean it’s just that. A hike. This hike is also known as the Balmoral Cairns Walk, but in reality – it’s more than a walk. Prepare for a hike, knowing that Scotland can have all 4 seasons in one day. Bring plenty of water, and maybe a snack. The full loop of this hike is 4.9 miles (less than 8 km). You don’t have to do the full loop – the pièce de résistance (Prince Albert Cairn) is not the last cairn you see on this circular walk. Do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For me, I was determined to do the full loop. But I was particular exhausted on this hike, because I was carrying a lot of camera gear..as always! I would rank it as medium challenging. It was a nice, steady uphill. You’ll see different cairns along the way, and it’s generally really gorgeous.

From the frequent rain, at times the path was really muddy. Good hiking boots will help with the mud. (Mine are Merrell’s Waterproof Boots (UK) / (US), which are great and absolutely essential for the muddy peat bog that is Scotland.)

CLICK HERE to download AllTrails to your phone

After you’ve taken that left from the ticket office, you’ll walk seemingly on a road… (and yes, it is the B976 – don’t worry. traffic is scant… if any at all). The River Dee is on your left side, a field with some hilly coos on your right side.

If you see a bridge in the distance, it should be around the time you see a fork to the right and uphill. Fork! That’s the right direction. You’ll pass by the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and a few cottages along the way, and away you go!

And our first cairn along the way!

Dedicated to HRH Princess Beatrice,
Married to HRH
Prince Henry Maurice of Battenberg.
23rd July 1885.

After more uphill hiking and some delicious time spent forest bathing, the Scottish Pyramid comes into view.

The Prince Albert Cairn is perched on the top of the hill. The trees fall away, with the pyramid and the Cairngorms coming into view.

The Balmoral Pyramid, built from granite, stands at a height of 35 feet. The square base measures 41 feet x 41 feet.

I spent a lot of time around the pyramid. It’s really peaceful up at the top, and you have stunning views of the valley below. There is an inscription on the pyramid which says:

To the beloved memory of Albert the great and good, Prince Consort. Erected by his broken hearted widow Victoria R. 21st August 1862

I saw one more cairn for Princess Louise after the Scottish pyramid. It brought my total number of cairns on this loop to 3. I thought I would see more than that on this loop, or maybe I did but didn’t notice, being exhausted from carrying my extensive camera gear in tow. But, 3 out of 11 cairns ain’t bad! It was still a great hike and one worth doing!

If you’re looking for all of the cairns on the Balmoral site, you’ll be able to find:

• Diamond jubilee cairn, to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 year reign
• Princess Alice cairn
• Princess Helena cairn
• Prince Leopold cairn
• Prince Arthur cairn
• Purchase cairn, or the Ballochbuie Cairn, marks Queen Victoria’s purchase of the Ballochbuie forest in 1878
• and the Princess Royal cairn.

5. After your Scottish pyramid walk!

Don’t forget to check out Balmoral Castle, if you didn’t before your hike! There’s also a cafe there, in case you’d like a little, well-deserved snack.

Now, if you’re looking for something stronger, don’t forget – you passed the Royal Lochnagar Distillery on the way in. And since this is a loop, you’ll pass it on the way out!

5.1 The Royal Lochnagar Distillery

The Royal Lochnagar Distillery is based at the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside. It was awarded its Royal Warrant, following a visit by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and three of their children in 1848.

The Royal Lochnagar is a Highland whisky, which produces mostly for Johnnie Walker’s Black and Blue labels. It also produces single malt whiskies, as well. You can tour their distillery and enjoy their 12 year old, Distillery Exclusive Bottling and Selected Reserve, for 12£.

Learn more about scotch whisky in my introductory post on Islay, Scotland’s whisky island!

5.2 Highlanders Bakehouse

In need of carbs after that hike? Stop by the Highlanders Bakehouse to refuel and grab some baked goods for later. You won’t regret it!

From the Balmoral Car Park, Highlanders Bakehouse is across the street on A93, just 500 meters / 0.3 miles to the East.

6. Parting thoughts on my hike to the Scottish Pyramid

This was a really fun hike to do. I love that there are additional things to do along the Balmoral Estate, given that you’d already paid for parking anyway. For me, I visited Balmoral Castle in 2019, and really enjoyed the audio tour. The grounds are gorgeous and a delight. I absolutely loved the gardens!

For more hikes wherever you are, download AllTrails app!

I didn’t get a chance to visit the Royal Lochnagar Distillery. I think I’ll save that for next time! I’ve been in and around the Royal Deeside area a few times, and I seem to keep coming back! Every time I’m here, I stay at the Hilton Grand Vacations Hotel & Spa at Craigendarroch in nearby Ballater. With a pool and sauna, and within walking distance to the village, it’s my go-to place to stay!

Sure, most of the time I visit, I just go to the Prince Albert Cairn because it’s so wonderful. But there’s different hikes looking for different cairns! There’s plenty of things to explore at Balmoral – something for everyone!

For those foodies, when in Ballater:

• be sure to visit the Phoenix Chip Shop. During Queen Elizabeth’s reign, the footman from Balmoral would visit this local chippy for the Queen’s fish and chips. I’ve been a few times – it’s a great chippy!
• have a romantically delicious meal at The Rothesay Rooms inside the Old Royal (railway) Station. Under Head Chef Ross Cochrane, The Rothesay Rooms is included in the Michelin Guide and showcases fresh local produce with seasonal menus. Originally established by King Charles III (when he was Prince of Wales) to support the community after flood and fire tore through Ballater in 2015.
• for brunch, the Bridge House Cafe is my personal fave!

If you’re looking to travel to Balmoral / Aberdeenshire in style via a luxury, overnight train, the Caledonian Sleeper offers the only overnight route between Scotland and London. Save time and arrive fully refreshed for your onward travel!

• Be sure to check out my review for the Caledonian Sleeper! You’ll take the train from London Euston to Aberdeen.
• Or connect to Aberdeen via ScotRail in 2-3 hours from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness!
• From Aberdeen, you’ll take Stagecoach Bluebird Bus 201 from Aberdeen Union Square bus station to Crathie (Balmoral), which takes about 2 hours.

For other ideas for travel in the Highlands:

• Visit the site of the historic Battle of Culloden;
• Enjoy a chocolate tasting at an award winning highland chocolatier;
• Take a road trip on the North Coast 500, where you can visit the Castle of Mey – the Scottish castle purchased by the Queen Mother (as shown in Netflix’s The Crown);
• Eat at an award winning restaurant, Monachyle Mhor;
• Take a Day Trip to Orkney Islands!

OR if royalty is your thing, be sure to visit Holyrood Palace (located in Edinburgh), which is the King’s official residence in Scotland!

Planning to hike up to the Scottish pyramid?
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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Through my extensive research about Scotland and its world class food traditions, I found out that the Scottish Highlands has a world famous, award winning chocolatier. You guessed it – Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier. The shop and brand bear the name of the the CEO and Master Chocolatier, Iain Burnett.

I scoured through their website and went down this rabbit hole of Chocolate Tasting Flights & Pairings. Chocolate pairings with coffee, champagne, and tea. And of course, chocolate (specifically, Velvet Truffles) and whisky pairings.

The Velvet Truffles create pairing flights as a fantastic “door” to highlight expression tastes & textures and attract a far wider audience into the world of whisky. 

Iain Burnett, Master Chocolatier

Even though their chocolate shop was closed at the time (due to covid-19), I emailed Iain to see if it was possible to ship me some chocolate, so I could do a virtual whisky pairing on my own. I was on my way to Islay and afterwards, I would spend a few days in Speyside. Both famous Scotch whisky regions. Instead, and unexpectedly, he invited me over to the Chocolate Lounge for a private whisky and Velvet Truffle pairing.

YES YES YES YES.

The Choco’Clock at Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier says it’s time for a dream come true.

1. Pre-arrival “homework” for Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier

You’re confused as to why there is pre-arrival homework. So was I, to be honest. I had zero clue how a chocolate tasting worked, having never, ever done one in my life. I knew nothing about the intracacies and the nuances of chocolate tasting.

A bad pairing [of gourmet couverture chocolate and malt whisky] will cheapen both, but a precise pairing combination heightens the experience and sheds extraordinary light on each – whisky vapours open up the palate to discover new characteristics of the Velvet Truffles and notes in the chocolate highlight or complement often unnoticed flavours in a fine malt.

Iain Burnett, Highland Chocolatier

The day before I arrived, Iain said I could bring some whisky and to share with him the tasting notes ahead of my arrival. He would arrange the right chocolates to pair with my whiskies.

Tasting notes?! I wondered if he meant from my own whisky tastings… I didn’t actually take any tasting notes. And I’ll let you in on a secret. I enjoy whisky, sure. I can tell you if one is peaty or not. But that’s the extent of it.

By that point, I knew I would be bringing 4 Kilchoman whiskies to pair with my truffles. Four beautiful single malt Scotch whiskies that I tasted on Islay the week before. Luckily, our beach whisky tasting came in little to-go bottles, and I only sipped a tiny amount that day. As a solo traveler, I am my own designated driver. Therefore, I had 4 tasting bottles ready for chocolate pairings.

I proceeded to go to Kilchoman’s website to see what their tasting notes were. What else was I supposed to do?

1. Sanaig: Rich and fruity with citrus, caramel and soft peat smoke
2. Loch Gorm: Spicy dark chocolate, cooked fruits, rich peat smoke and toffee
3. Machir Bay: Citrus fruit, layered vanilla and butterscotch sweetness
4. 100% Islay: Fragrant citrus and caramel sweetness, fresh fruits and light smoke.

Copy and paste, and off to Iain!

2. Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier: The Chocolate Lounge

Iain and his wife created a shop and chocolate lounge that lives in a fairy tale. The interior design felt like I had fallen down the rabbit hole with Alice, and emerged in this magical, picture perfect shop. Iain’s wife, responsible for the interior design, describes it as Scottish fairy tale meets Disney. And it is stunning! The photos really don’t do it justice.

The shop is separated into two distinct sections – a chocolate shop and the Chocolate Lounge. While walking through the shop, Iain gave me a brief orientation. First, he only uses only unblended, Scottish cream from the local dairy industry. Then, only natural and fresh ingredients. No artificial flavorings, additives or preservatives. Finally, the cocoa? You’ll never guess where it’s from. The South Atlantic island of São Tomé (part of the “chocolate islands”). What drew him to São Tomé’s single-origin cocoa, is its rich, complex flavor.

So what do you get when a ganache specialist combines rich and complex cocoa (from the chocolate islands, no doubt!) with fresh, Scottish dairy cream, without all the additives or artificial flavoring?

A socially distant tasting,

with Beautiful Velvet Truffles

3. All ready for Kilchoman whisky and chocolate pairing!

With Kilchoman’s core range poured into a glass each, and a tray full of Iain’s velvet truffles for tasting, we set off.

Step by step, here’s how we did it.

1. Read the tasting notes of the whisky.
2. From that,  Iain makes a shortlist of potential flavours and textures from the tasting notes, then finding the best supporting or complementary combination is discovered through repeated nosings and returns, depending on which characteristics in the expression are to be highlighted or subdued.
   • For example, citrus notes with citrusy truffle. Butterscotch sweetness, with a gentle caramel.
3. First, nose the whisky. For us amateurs, swill the whisky a bit, and then “Sniff, sniff and sniff again (and, well, sniff once more).” – Whisky Foundation.
4. Think about the aroma of the whisky. Peaty? Sweet? Citrusy?
5. Eat the chocolate.
6. Wait 30 seconds.
7. Go back to the whisky and nose it again.
8. Did the aroma change? And if so, how?

Iain and I did a combination of this with a number of his Velvet Truffles and the 4 Kilchoman whiskies. For amateurs like myself, the really surprising thing was how the aromas in the whiskies enhanced or changed as a result of the flavors in the chocolate. Incredible!

I made some graphics to show the sampling we paired Kilchoman’s core range, just so that you can get a sense. Here is Iain’s.

Parting Thoughts

I’m sure this comes as no surprise to you – I had an amazing afternoon with Iain. It felt like an exploration of the hidden aromas of the Kilchoman whiskies, with a world-renown chocolatier and his rich velvet truffles as a guide to enhance the experience.

Quick Fun Fact

I wanted to share a quick fun fact before we go about Iain’s chocolate truffles. During lockdown, my friend and I delved deep into many seasons of the Great British Bake Off. Normally chocolates are made by pouring melted chocolate into a mold and shaking off the excess, so that the chocolate shells are thin. Well. At Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, the chocolate shells are extremely thin. How did they achieve this? Not through a mold, but by running the fillings through a chocolate waterfall.

A chocolate waterfall? This chocolate shop truly straight out of a Scottish fairy tale.

Looking for other whisky experiences in Scotland? How about

• joining a virtual (or soon-to-be in person) tasting at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society;
• visiting Islay, Scotland’s famous whisky island;
• hiking to Scotland’s only pyramid, and then rewarding yourself with a royal whisky tasting.

All the opinions contained in this post are my own. I am affiliated with Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, however am an affiliate of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Affiliate links in this post are in green, for which I may earn a small commission, if you choose to purchase from it.

Visit Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier

The Shop and Chocolate Lounge is located in Grandtully, Pitlochry, near the southern edge of Cairngorms National Park. It is about 45 minutes north of Perthshire and an hour and a half north of Edinburgh.

If you’ve stopped by Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, don’t miss Dewar’s Aberfeldy Distillery and the Birks of Aberfeldy down the road!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

To introduce you to my beloved island off of the west coast of Scotland, located in the Inner Hebrides, Islay is one of Scotland’s famous whisky distilling regions. The other whisky regions being: Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside and Campbeltown. (Sometimes “the Islands”, i.e. Skye, Jura, Arran, Orkney, Mull, are also a separate whisky region, but not technically according to regulation…) Each whisky region has its own set of unique characteristics that impact the taste and flavors of the whisky.

Before I get into the meat of the article, which extends beyond Islay whisky, let me lay some groundwork on Scotch Whisky. I’ll then pay some homage to Islay whisky and its culture of peaty whiskies.

1. Scotch Whisky

Well, first of all, Scotch Whisky is protected by law – set forth by the 2009 Scotch Whisky Regulation. To be designated as a whisky from Scotland, or a Scotch, it must adhere to the following requirements:

• Made in Scotland from only cereals, water and yeast
• Matured for a minimum of 3 years in oak casks
• Bottled at a minimum strength of 40% abv
• Distilled below 94.8% abv so that it retains the flavour and aroma derived from its raw materials
• No flavouring or sweetening is permitted

– From the Scotch Whisky Association

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, to be defined as a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, “the whisky must be distilled at a single distillery from water and malted barley without the addition of any other cereals, and by batch distillation in copper pot stills. Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be bottled in Scotland.”

2. What makes Islay whisky special?

2.1 Peaty Islay Whisky? Blame it on the weather!

Allow me to clarify that I am not an expert in whisky, Islay, or Islay whisky. Obviously, there are better sources out there. I’ll share what I know and what I’ve found out. So, grab your wellies and rain coat, much of the peaty history of Islay whisky is owed to the island’s climate.

Islay is so wet the island never really dries. Throughout the year, like much of Scotland, the abundant grasses, mosses and shrubs live and die in perpetual bog. Over centuries, the resultant decaying matter creates a dense black substance. (*Lannie clarification – this is peat.)

But on Islay, seaweed and the wind-blown sea salt give the peat unique characteristics. Once cut and dried on firmer ground, the peat can then be burnt in a manner similar to coal.

Peat, bog and world-class whisky – why Islay remains the jewel in Scotland’s single-malt crown

Say what? Peat is decayed vegetation? Well sure, why not. Is that weird? I mean, weird things are kinda the best. Above is a picture of peat, that have been hand cut into squares. I imagined peat to be dense and heavy, but it’s surprisingly light. And it doesn’t smell “peaty.” I guess that only comes when you burn it.

Why would I want to visit if there’s decayed vegetation in their whiskies? Keep reading to find out!

2.2 Peat and Smokiness

If you were to break down the steps of producing a single-malt whisky, it’d be:

1. Malting the barley
2. Fermentation
3. Distillation
4. Filling the casks
5. Maturation in the casks
6. Bottling

Peat is “inserted” into the barley grains in the malting process, when you dry the damp malt over peat-heated fire. The level of smokiness depends on how long the malt is dried over peat-heated fire. The process of drying the malt over fire usually takes about 30 hours. Laphroaig, as a prime example of Islay whisky, uses peat in about 17 of the 30 hours, which gives it a rich peatiness, or what they call ‘peat reek’.

So now you know, why Islay whiskies are peaty. Because the island is covered in a damp, peat bog, and they use these hundreds or thousands of year old decaying plant life to fuel the fire that dries the malt. And the longer the peated fire dries the malt, the smokier it becomes. Voila! Islay whisky = peaty, smokiness. Mini whisky lesson achieved!

2.3 Visit Islay’s Whisky Distilleries

No one really knows when whisky distillation began. The first official record of malt distillation went back to 1494 when King James IV of Scotland was sent 500 bottles of spirit. Following a malt tax levied in 1725, many of the early whisky distilleries went “underground” to hide from the tax man. Underground is a loose term. On Islay, many illicit stills were hiding out in the caves that bend and curve around our island. By 1823, the Excise Act was passed that legalized distillation for a fee.

Here is a list of all of the Islay whisky distilleries in alphabetical order (including local pronunciations):

1. Ardbeg – (ard-BEG)
2. Ardnahoe – (ARD-na-hoe)
3. Bowmore – (b’MORE)
4. Bruichladdich (BROOK-laddie)
5. Bunnahabhain (BUN-a-HAV-en)
6. Caol Ila – (cull-EE-la)
7. Kilchoman (kil-HO-man)
8. Lagavulin – (LAG-a-VU-lin)
9. Laphroiag – (La-FROIG)

If you’re determined to visit all of the distilleries when you visit Islay, be sure to check out their websites for the most up to date opening information!

.

For those who are superbly detail oriented, you’ll notice 10 distilleries in the first photo showing Islay whisky distilleries, and only 9 of them named above. The missing one from the list is – Port Ellen Maltings (POR-tellen). The distillery was founded in 1825, but ceased distilling in 1929. However, the maltings and warehousing operations continued.

To this day, Port Ellen Maltings supplies the malt to most of Islay’s distilleries, to each distillery’s secret specifications. But get excited, Islay whisky lovers! In 2017, Diageo announced that Port Ellen Distillery will begin distilling again in 2020. Not sure how covid has affected these plans. But let’s just say the old Port Ellen Whiskies are highly sought after, so there is something to look forward to!

Diageo is no stranger to whisky, holding such brands like Caol Ila and Lagavulin (and now Port Ellen) on Islay, and others like Royal Lochnagar, Talisker, and Oban.

2.4 Can I visit Islay without being a whisky fan?

I get asked this question a lot. The answer is YES. Being a whisky fan is not a requirement to visit Islay. However, you might surprise yourself!

Prior to 2019, I had only tasted whisky on my Edinburgh food tour and visited one distillery. But I liked the idea of whisky as a hobby and was excited to learn more.

Since then, I’ve spent more time in both Speyside and Islay embracing this whisky culture. With each new expression, I was drawn in.

But fear not – you can still have an incredible Islay holiday, even if you’re not partaking in the Scotch! Hopefully, my post will introduce you to more of Islay than just its whisky.

3. How to get to Islay

Well, considering it is an island, there’s really only a few ways to visit Islay. For me, since I was already on a road trip, it involved my trusty rental car and a ferry reservation. But for those who don’t want to do that, you can also arrive by air.

Get your bearings straight before you visit Islay. If you love maps like I do, the Ordnance Survey map of Islay is perfect purchase for the travel planner and inner cartographer! Maps covering the full island, North Islay, and South Islay.

3.1 By Air

You can fly into Islay, domestically, non-stop from Glasgow on Loganair’s daily, nonstop return from – 160 – 200 GBP.

If you fly, I’d still recommend you rent a car after you arrive. So, instead of that, why not just take the ferry with your rental car and visit Islay from the mainland?

3.2 By Sea

Roundtrip ferry fares to and from Islay (one person, with a car) is about 80 GBP. You can also board the ferry as a single, foot passenger, or with a bicycle, as I saw many people do. But that still requires you to make your way to Kennacraig on the mainland. For additional help, see: How to get to Islay, using public transport from Glasgow.

CalMac Ferries run several daily ferries from mainland Scotland (Kennecraig) to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig on Islay. The ferry ride is very simple, and my ride to Port Askaig took around 2 hours.

You can also arrive to Islay on a seasonal, passenger ferry from Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. I’ve included step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast in this post.

3.3 By Tour

For those wanting a guided tour of Islay and the Whisky Isles (which means you can drink without arranging taxis or having to worry about a designated driver), Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! Starting at 335£ for a 4 day tour!

4. The 2 best places to stay for your Islay holiday

My first time on Islay, I stayed on the island for one week. I decided to break it up and stay in 2 different places on different parts of the island:

• Glenegedale House in the south,
• Port Charlotte Hotel in the Rinns of Islay, on the western part of the island.

Personally, this was a great idea. Glenegedale was quiet, homey and everything that I wanted. Port Charlotte Hotel sits inside the village of Port Charlotte, and is home to an award winning Whisky Pub. This gives it a lively atmosphere, even given physical distancing. Both have world class hospitality and are known for their amazing food. All the things that I wanted on my trip!

Visit the detailed posts on both accommodations, The Port Charlotte Hotel and Glenegedale House, and their food!

4.1 Glenegedale House

I was the first guest to Glenegedale House after lockdown lifted in July 2020. You may think that made me apprehensive, but their genuine, warm hospitality made me feel right at home! They were ready to operate in a post-covid world, and made sure their guests felt comfortable during their post-lockdown stay.

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a beautifully designed double room. Laying in bed, I had a view of the sea. It was glorious. Every morning, I woke up and turned onto my side, toward the window to watch the sea. In all my days there, I never took a photo out that window, but you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Not only is Glenegedale known for their beautiful hospitality, they are also known for their food! Their breakfasts were absolutely stunning.

During my stay at Glenegedale, I was introduced to (now, one of my favorites) porridge with whisky. Is this a tourist gimmick? Actually not. Locals will take their porridge (oatmeal for us Americans) with:

• brown sugar,
• whisky (in my case, a 10 year Laphroaig),
• and some heavy cream.

Sound intense? It’s actually really wonderful. The brown sugar offsets any of the intensity of the scotch, and you’re left with this smoky, creamy oatmeal. There are two ways to eat this – one where you mix it all together, and the other where you eat it bit by bit. I’ll let you guess which one I did.

Did I get drunk off of this? Actually, no! And it was so delicious, I had it with breakfast every single morning. It paired beautifully with their selection of home-poached fruit!

Lastly, Glenegedale House is located right next to the airport and within a 10 minute drive to Port Ellen. It is ideally located to visit the three (heavily peaty) distilleries in the south – Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig!

A big thank you to the Glenegedale House!
For my full review, click here!

*I should mention that there are hand sanitizing stations located throughout public spaces. Face shields are worn at meal and face masks at welcome. Don’t worry about it!

4.2 The Port Charlotte Hotel

Port Charlotte, a beautiful village on the western peninsula of Islay, is home to an equally beautiful namesake hotel – the Port Charlotte Hotel. Even before I arrived at the Port Charlotte Hotel, I heard about the fun whisky bar and its amazing restaurant. This trip was all about soaking up the local whisky culture, the food scene, and Islay’s delicious hospitality. And the Port Charlotte Hotel did not disappoint on any front!

Experiencing hospitality in the age of covid-19 is odd in itself, let’s be real. I knew I was in good hands at the Port Charlotte Hotel. They updated their reception area with a screen, to create space between the guest and host. But it didn’t feel unfriendly or impersonal. Each time I walked by, I was greeted with a friendly smile, and (even in July) the warmth of a roaring fire in the sitting room.

I stayed in Room 1, a double room, with a luscious sea view you could enjoy straight from bed. I don’t have any good photos of that view, because those moments that I spent in bed were particularly rainy. When the rain cleared, you could see across to the Loch Indaal House (lighthouse).

Before I arrived in Port Charlotte, I had heard tales of how amazing the food was here. And let me tell you – the breakfasts and dinners at the Port Charlotte Hotel were phenomenal! The food was so delicious and extremely fresh and high quality! When you visit Islay, there are no excuses for eating a subpar meal when you have food like this!

The beauty of a full Scottish Breakfast

From Port Charlotte, it’s easy to swing by Kilchoman Distillery and Bruichladdich Distillery, which are also located on the western peninsula. Check the distillery websites for the most up to date information on opening times and COVID-19 measures!

A big thank you to the Port Charlotte Hotel!
For my full review, click here.

*Along with hand sanitizing stations throughout, and the screen at reception, face masks are worn by servers in the restaurant.

5. Things to do in Islay – its Historical Sites

It’s easy to get starstuck with its gorgeous whiskies and hospitality when you visit Islay. But this island offers a rich history with interesting sites to see!

5.1 Finlaggan Castle

On the isle of Eilean Mór on Loch Finlaggan, is Finlaggan Castle. (Say that again? A castle on an island, in a lake, on an island…)

Well, technically, the ruins of Finlaggan Castle – once the seat of power for the Lord of the Isles, and the stronghold of Clan Donald. The Lord of the Isles controlled the Isle of Man, the Hebrides, Knoydart, Ardnamurchan, and the Kintyre Peninsula, as well as the Glens of Antrim across the sea in Northern Ireland. At the height of their power, Clan Donald was the greatest landowner and one of the most powerful lords in Britain, after the Kings of England and Scotland themselves.

In medieval times, there were more than 20 structures on the island, including homes, workshops, and storehouses, which were made of both wood and stone. The above photo is of the Great Hall and is one of a few structures still standing.

The castle and accompanying chapel were likely built in the 13th century. Clan Donald held Finlaggan Castle and the Lordship of the Isles until in 1493. The end of the MacDonald Lords came when King James IV of Scotland seized all their ancestral homelands, estates, and titles.

Currently, the title of the Lord of the Isles still exists! The title of Lord of the Isles is held by the Duke of Rothesay (the equivalent of the Prince of Wales in Scotland), better known to the rest of us as Prince William.

Marshy land on the way to Finlaggan Castle.
This marshy, boggy land is perfect for peat cultivation.

Today, the Finlaggan Trust runs a visitor center and maintains the wooden jetty across Loch Finlaggan to the ruins. Without the jetty, the isle and castle ruins would be cut off from visitors. It is a short, but lovely walk from the visitor center and car park to the jetty. Don’t miss the honesty box for donations to help the upkeep and maintenance!

5.2 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

5.3 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton).

Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

It is an incredible site to see!!

5.4 Museum of Islay Life

To get the most out of your Islay trip, a visit to the Museum of Islay Life up in Port Charlotte is a must. It’s a walk back in time, from when the island was first settled (from prehistoric times) to present day. It also has so many artifacts collected over the years from real Ileachs (pronounced EE-lokh, and meaning a person who comes from Islay). A wonderfully curated collection!

Some of the really fun “old things” that I enjoyed seeing (in complete random order), a pre-electric iron, old photographs, butter molds (with thistle designs and everything!), an original sodastream machine from ages ago! There was a huge variety of things, but also easy for you to walk through and take it all in!

And of course, the history of Islay whisky and its illicit stills. I won’t entirely give it away, but the story has to do with the tax man (excise tax) and the need to have to hide their whisky from the tax man. Hide it in caves, hide it in coffins, you name it – there was whisky hiding. I absolutely loved seeing the old photos of the distilleries and the workers, as well as the peat tools you see above! A walk back into time!

Located within walking distance of the Port Charlotte Hotel. So, if you’re staying there, pop on over. If you’re staying elsewhere, definitely stop by for a meal before or after!

5.5 Islay Woolen Mill

Hidden among the Bridgend Woods, The Islay Woolen Mill was first established in 1883. Using two restored Dobcross looms from the 1920s, the Covell family have been working together since 1981 to weave luscious cloth. The old looms are definitely a sight to see! You might recognize some of the designs, as their cloth designs have featured in Braveheart and Forrest Gump to name a few. Commemorate your visit to Islay with an official distillery tartan scarf or throw!

6. Best outdoor things to do in Islay

6.1 Beaches

Most people wouldn’t think it, but one of the best things to do in Islay is to visit the beautiful beaches! There are more beaches that I haven’t gone to yet, but here are some you should put on your list when you visit Islay.

6.1.1 Machir Bay

Located near the Kilchoman Distillery, Machir Bay is a beautiful sand beach. During low tide, you can see remnants of a shipwreck. Maybe you want to stop by Kilchoman on the way to Machir Bay, so that you can enjoy a Machir Bay Whisky at Machir Bay.

6.1.2 Saligo Bay

Saligo Bay is generally considered Islay’s most beautiful beach! It is absolutely stunning, with large rock formations around. As you can see from the photo below, it wasn’t beautifully sunny the day that I went, but I still enjoyed a long walk along the beach.

6.1.3 White Hart Beach

Watch this video on YouTube.

The White Hart Beach is located right when you enter the Port Ellen, just opposite the hotel at No. 1 Charlotte Street. This is a favorite of mine, with views of Port Ellen Maltings and the village of Port Ellen itself. Sometimes you’ll find me beachcombing for sea glass.

6.1.4 Claggain Bay

Unlike all of the above, the beach at Claggain Bay is a pebble beach, not sand. It’s perfect to stop by following a visit to the Kildalton Cross. It’s kind of out there, but beautiful and well worth it! From my conversations with locals, this is often their favorite!

6.2 Best Walks on Islay

There are a number of incredible walks and hikes for your Islay trip. Even though you can get your steps in, you better be prepared with the right clothes! Chances are, it may rain, but prepare your wellies! You may step into some mud or peat bog.

These walks are kind of a must when you visit Islay – to see the views, yes, but also to make some room for more delicious food!

6.2.1 American Monument

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

The Tuscania, carrying over 2,000 soldiers and 300 crew, sank 7 miles off the coast of Islay. A German UB-77 submarine torpedoed the Tuscania, resulting in a direct hit. Eight months later, closer to Machir Bay, the HMS Otranto collided with HMS Kashmir during a heavy storm. Over 400 British and American troops were lost. Many are buried in the Kilchoman military cemetary.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

For more trails, download AllTrails+

6.2.2 Around Portnahaven

Everyone in Islay will tell you Portnahaven is a delightful fishing village on that side of the island. And it’s true – I definitely agree. I would even put it as one of the must-see places when you visit Islay.

I spent a few hours walking around the village and the next village over, Port Wemyss. Just off the coast, on Orsay, is the Rinns of Islay Lighthouse.

If you’re lucky, you’ll get to see some seals lounging around in the Portnahaven harbor. Or, if you have a massive zoom lens like I now do, you’ll see them lounging at the base of the lighthouse.

Curious what lens I used for this? My new Sigma 150-600mm. The seal was shot at 600mm. I have to admit that I absolutely love it. (Even if it does weigh almost 4.5 pounds, and is super ginormous…)

6.2.3 Three Distilleries Path

The Three Distilleries Path is arguably my favorite walk on Islay and probably one of the best walks on Islay. It is a one way walk from Port Ellen to Ardbeg Distillery, passing Laphroaig and Lagavulin along the way. It’s about 6 km in total and is a one way trip. For me, I like to take the bus from Port Ellen (for 2£) down to Ardbeg, and walk back. Feel free to read all about my walk along the Three Distilleries Path when I did a whisky tasting along the way.

For those who love the purple blanket of bluebells, there are lots between Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig! But if bluebells are your thing…

6.2.4 Bridgend Woods

Located just opposite Islay House Square, bridgend woods is just off of the main road between Port Askaig and Bridgend. However, don’t let that bustling road traffic fool you. Within seconds, you’re in the quiet sanctuary or what feels like an ancient forest. There are lots of walking path options within the woods, and I’ve really only done a fraction of it!

But, between May and June, Bridgend Woods is the place on Islay for bluebells. They blanket the whole forest floor, and really, everywhere you go! But don’t go frolocking in the fields and take those stereotypial flower field instagram photos. Bluebells are extremely delicate and will die off if trampled upon!

6.2.5 Bruichladdich Walking Path

The newest walking path on Islay is surely becoming one of my favorites. The Bruichladdich Walking Path connects the villages of Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte, via a paved coastal path. Go down to the secret beach at Port Ban and admire the Bruichladdich Islay-grown barley waving to you in the wind. The path is great for cyclists and walkers of all ages.

I’ve added the Bruichladdich Walking Path to AllTrails because it’s such a great walk. Download AllTrails Pro download offline maps, find nearby trails, and more!

6.3 Boat adventures

Islay Sea Adventures has the great tours for adults and families alike. Recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Best Outdoor/Adventure Activity, and having been on several of their boat trips, going on a boat with Islay Sea Adventures is definitely one of the best things to do in Islay!

During the tourist season, they have daily sailings for wildlife tours, fishing trips, seafood trips, and sunset boat trips! I’ve been on several of Islay Sea Adventures trips – the most popular being the wildlife trip. Most trips begin from Port Ellen and sail the southern tip, with views of the southern Islay distilleries, and then on over to a special area of conservation for more seal and deer spotting!

Those who are seafood-obsessed, you have to go on their Seafood Special Tour! The seafood special to includes a special stop in a bay. Captain Harold then takes to the gas grill with some hand dived scallops, butter and herbs. The smell alone is intoxicating. Inside, there’s lobster and crab, salad and some bread waiting for you. An absolute feast on the seas!!

7. My favorite MUST VISIT Islay small businesses

7.1 Sea Salt in Port Ellen

Sea Salt is a delightful bistro that comes highly recommended for an amazing meal. It’s one of those places that is so good, maybe you visit twice during your first trip! Ok, that is exactly what I did.

I ate at Sea Salt on my first night in Islay, upon the recommendation of Emma from Glenegedale. What I ordered set off a chain reaction of “wooo, what’s she eating?” To which I happily replied, “The seafood linguini. You won’t regret it!”

The second time I visited Sea Salt, I had an amazing fish and chips. The fish was super fresh, with light and crispy batter. I honestly thought about having the seafood linguini again, but that would be silly. And sometimes, you just wanna go for the classics!

At this point, I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve eaten at Sea Salt, for breakfast, lunch and dinner!

7.2 Spirited Soaps in Bowmore

One of the shops I came across in Islay is Spirited Soaps, which became a pillar of the community during a hand sanitizer shortage on the island. Along with Bruichladdich Distillery, Spirited Soaps addressed the community shortage on the island by creating Islay Hand Sanitiser, which you can find sprinkled everywhere a hand sanitizing station is needed on Islay.

Spirited Soaps happily marries Islay’s whisky tradition with soap and personal care products. Although I may be simplifying this, all soaps contain some alcohol. So, why not use the alcohol that the island is famous for? They’ve interestingly used parts of the malted barley of all 9 Islay distilleries (and Lussa Gin and Jura Distillery on neighboring Jura) to create unique, beautiful soaps of different scents and smells. Islay whisky soap? Lussa Gin soap? Count me in! These soaps don’t necessarily smell like your traditional, peated Islay whisky or alcoholic spirits!

When I visited Bowmore, I had a lovely chat with Gemma, the new proprietress of Spirited Soaps. She happened to be cutting small soap bars from a giant block when I entered the shop.

I looked in awe at all of the different soaps and lotions and creams. In pre-covid times, I would be opening up each jar, smelling them, testing out samples…the whole nine yards. That day, I hesitated and told Gemma of that hesitation. She said that since I sanitized my hands (with Islay Hand Sanitiser, made by Spirited Soaps) when I first walked in the shop, it was alright to open, smell and test anything.

The thing that I found super interesting, was most distilleries did not want their soaps to smell like their spirits. For example, Laphroaig specifically did not – instead, their soap smells like peppermint! Also, there’s grist in Kilchoman’s soaps! I picked up a few bars of soaps as gifts and for myself. A Laphroaig bar for my dear friend who loves their peaty whiskies, and a Lussa Gin bar to pair with the bottle I’d buy for another friend as a gift!

Last but not least, they’ve recently changed their soap packaging to be plastic free! Printed by It’s a Wrap UK, in a carbon neutral factory, the inks are made from soya-based vegetable oils, on environmentally friendly, biodegradable and recyclable materials! Local Islay-made soaps, eco-friendly packaging… what more could you ask for?

So, stop by when you’re in Bowmore! You’ll be sure to pick up some things for yourself and for friends!

Spirited Soaps is also available for purchase in their online shop, located here.

7.3 Peatzeria in Bowmore

Besides the absolutely delightful name (who doesn’t love a pun?), their pizzas are incredible as is their dessert! To give you an idea of what their pizza toppings … my first time at Peatzeria, I was sitting outside on their terrace, enjoying a view of the sea. A delivery man walked by, holding a crate of fresh lobsters, and proceeded to walk into the kitchen. “I like what you got there,” I said to him, in the least creepy, most seafood-excited way. I think he politely looked at me like I was insane.

Besides lobster being on pizza (which I haven’t tried), they have a variety of local seafood favorites – including the one I have tried – scallops and parma ham. If seafood isn’t your thing, there are more traditional pizzas. I’ve tried the black and red, which has incredible black pudding, caramelized red onion chutney, and goats cheese. Hello incredible Scottish flavors!

While they can always give you a box to take away leftovers (they are still delicious the next day), be sure to save some room for dessert. You won’t regret it!

7.4 Lussa Gin (ok, on Jura but still!)

My search for amazing spirits and great stories brought me to Islay’s neighboring island, Jura. Jura is the home to only 220 people, and is a place where red deer outnumber humans 30 to 1. Only a quick 6 minute ferry ride from Port Askaig to Feolin, and suddenly you’re in a completely different world.

You know that I love my remote places, but the drive up to Ardlussa, home of Lussa Gin, was one of the most remote drives I’ve been on. From the ferry, it’s 25 miles along a single track road, with the most stunning views to offer.

The story of Lussa Gin begins with 3 friends – Alicia, Claire, and Georgina. All three were doing other things in life, until one night in 2015 they decided to come together and make gin. Through some trial and error, and with their first 10 litre copper, alembic still named “Jim”, what resulted was a gin crafted with local botanicals. 15 different ones, to be exact. I know you’re curious which ones, so here is a little excerpt from their brochure:

“The flavour of Lussa Gin is led by juniper (1) with a citrus nose from the lemon thyme (2). It has an aromatic depth of flavour with notes of water mint (3), bog myrtle (4) and Scots pine (5), balanced with a savoury kick from the ground elder (6) and sea lettuce (7). Honeysuckle (8) and elderflower (9) add sweetness and finally, rose petals (10) and rosehip (11) give the gin a smoothness and length of finish.”

The remaining 4 are lighter, but nonetheless critical: coriander seed, lemon balm, orris root, lime tree flowers. 15! To keep things local to Jura, each flower and herb are grown, gathered or foraged in Ardlussa or nearby the estate on Jura.

I was happy to have met Alicia and Georgina when I visited Lussa Gin. Even though their distillery tour is currently not operating due to covid-19, you are allowed to visit (only 2 people allowed at a time). Gotta make sure there’s social distance between the humans, little “Jim” and now his big (200 litre) brother, “Hamish”.

One of the things I loved learning about Lussa Gin, is that the gin is distilled, bottled and labeled by hand, by these three women. A strip of tweed also adorns each bottle. What’s the significance? It is the estate tweed for Ardlussa (where the gin is made), but with an extra green stripe to signify the botanicals. Love the attention to detail!

Come and visit Jura and hear the story of Lussa Gin from the ladies themselves. The story telling goes hand in hand with a sample gin tasting.

The gin was so fresh and aromatic. I tasted it with Walters Gregors, a lovely light tonic from Aberdeenshire – Scotland’s first tonic water! This is Lussa’s tonic pairing of choice. If you’re feeling fancy during those summer months, don’t forget lots of ice, and maybe a wedge of frozen lemon and a spring of mint, lemon thyme, lemon balm, or rose petal!

Be sure to stop by their distillery on Jura for a visit. It’s a beautiful drive, with a beautiful gin at the end of it!

Lussa Gin is available to purchase here!

7.5 Other Islay small businesses

Port Ellen – Some other small businesses that I love supporting are:

• Campbell’s SPAR – in Port Ellen. My local shop, always good for a laugh and some curry pasta from the deli;
• The Copper Still Coffee – right at Port Ellen pier, open a few days a week for coffees, quiches, sausage rolls and sweet delights!
• Little Charlotte Cafe – a lovely wee cafe next to the White Hart Beach, for luches, coffees and cakes!
• Balaclava Byre – located just outside of Port Ellen (on your way from the airport), the Balaclava Byre is Port Ellen’s newest restaurant and farm shop! Stop there for your Sunday roasts and local produce;
• The Blue Letter Box – cute wee shop (and post office) in Port Ellen, with Arran ice cream in the summers, and locally made gifts for you to fawn over.

Bowmore:

• Lynn Labels – a delightful coffee shop and diner with toasties, scones, and gifts. The scones in the window will make you do a double take!
• Celtic House – a local bookstore and gift shop, with all the Islay and whisky-related books you can ask for! Don’t forget to check out the cafe upstairs, known by me for their milkshakes!

8. My Islay Whisky Tour (so far)

I wanted to show you that Islay is much more than just its whisky. But when you visit Islay, you can’t overlook their whisky entirely. So here we go!

8.1 Kilchoman Distillery

Of course you can’t visit Islay without visiting a distillery. Let me introduce you to Kilchoman, or “Islay’s Farm Distillery.” Kilchoman Distillery prides themselves as growing most of their own barley on their farmlands and being one of the few distilleries on Scotland to practice traditional floor malting. Kilchoman was established in 2005, and was the first distillery to be built on Islay in 124 years!

Be sure to try their 100% Islay whisky, where everything from the barley to the distilling to the warehousing and bottling is 100% completed on Islay!

So far, I’ve managed to do two Kilchoman tastings in person:

• one amazing tasting on the beach in Machir Bay,
• and a tour (plus tasting bottles to go!) in their farm distillery.

Social distanced whisky tasting on the beach, especially with amazing weather, is highly recommended!

Whisky tasting on the beach? SIGN ME UP!

Thanks @Kilchomanwhisky for the fun tasting yesterday. Drinkin’ a Machir Bay in Machir Bay! ☀️🥃🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿😎

Couldn’t have asked for a more gorgeous day to pair with 4 lovely whiskies!

(last photo not mine 😄)@IslayandJura @VisitScotland pic.twitter.com/rbBSi5nz0b

— Lannie Travels (@lannietravels) July 22, 2020

If you have some extra time, you should definitely grab a cullen skink and a toastie from the cafe at Kilchoman. It’s definitely one of my favorite cullen skinks, and not to be missed!

As a little side story, after my first trip to Islay, I brought some tasting packs of the 4 core range Kilchoman whiskies to Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, over in Pitlochry. Iain, a Master Chocolatier, spent an afternoon with me to do a whisky and chocolate pairing. It’s incredible how the flavors of the chocolate bring out the flavors in the whisky!

8.2 Ardbeg Distillery

Ardbeg Distillery is one of my favorite distilleries to visit on Islay. So much so that it was the first stop on my 40th birthday friends tour of Islay! Look at us all enjoying ourselves on the Ardbeg pier with a crackin, peaty dram.

Ardbeg is quite peaty. Technically their minimum peat-smoking level at 55 ppm is one of the highest in the whisky industry. And who doesn’t love a peaty whisky?! The Ardbeg 10 is a classic, and Corryvreckan is probably one of my favorites!

Take a tour to take a peak at their new stills, housed in a new still house! You’ll have to take a tour to take a peek at the views the stills have into the bay.

Andddd, if it’s a sunny day during high season, you have to eat at the ARDstream food truck!

For me, it was a wild mushroom bao – and it was delicious as it sounds. They have both hot options on the griddle, and lighter fare like sandwiches and scones. During the winter, the Old Kiln Cafe is open for lunch inside, and their food is literally exquisite! One of the best distillery meals I’ve ever had!

Pop into the distillery shop, which is quirky and fun in itself! You can purchase different types of tasting packs and some Ardbeg cocktails, to enjoy outside on the picnic tables or at home.

8.3 Bunnahabhain Distillery

Bunnahabhain Distillery is an interesting Islay whisky, in that it mostly produces unpeated spirit! Their style is unpeated, sherry whiskies, which is a delicious combination in my humble opinion. One of my favorite whisky tastings on Islay has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting, often hosted by Islay whisky legend, David Brodie.

In fact, it was another stop on my 40th birthday friends tour around Islay!

The Warehouse 9 tasting will keep you entertained as you learn about the different sherry types of sherry that Bunnahabhain casks used to hold, and how that affects the taste of their whiskies. If you’re lucky, a certain someone may serenade you with a guitar and a song.

8.4 Ardnahoe Distillery

The newest member of the Islay whisky distillery club is Ardnahoe Distillery. Ardnahoe only opened in April 2019. However, before the distillery opened, Ardnahoe had already begun filling casks back in 2018. Now, we wait, as they mature. For those who are eager beavers, casks are available for purchase on their website. Their whiskies will be heavily peated (with roughly the same PPM as average Laphroaig whiskies), with notes of tropical fruit and earthy cereal. Sounds great to me!

Besides distilling their own whiskies at Ardnahoe, they also independently bottle whiskies. Want to go down this rabbit hole with me? That means that they buy spirits from different distilleries and select their own casks for maturation. Some independent bottlers blend together their spirits to make an entirely new whisky. This whisky world is complicated, no?

I didn’t manage a tour the first time, but I had a quick look around their shop and had a stunningly delicious lemon coconut drizzle cake in their beautiful restaurant & cafe. You don’t want to miss the views of the Paps of Jura from the gorgeous terrace either!

My second time at Ardnahoe, I popped by for a whisky and food pairing. Being a ridiculous foodie, and someone who is loving whisky more and more, food and whisky together are my kryptonite. The pairings change, but that day, we had:

• Scarabus (bottled from the same company that owns Ardnahoe) – paired with a blue cheese mouse on oat cakes,
• (a palette cleanser of tomatoes, cucumbers, and dill)
• a smokey Isle of Skye Talisker 8 years old, paired with a venison sausage roll,
• (a palette cleanser of strawberry and melon with basil)
• and Laphroaig 12 years old, matured in a Sherry cask, paired with a chocolate, orange tart.

I absolutely loved this experience! I’m always amazed how the smell and flavor of whisky changes before and after food! Such a complicated spirit.

Even though I already had nibbles during the food and whisky tasting, I needed to sober up before driving home – ahh the downfalls of solo activities. However, the restaurant in Ardnahoe (called the Illicit Still hehe) has incredible food. One lobster garlic noodles for me!

Do you see how whisky isn’t the only reason to visit Islay? But the food too! The food can hold its own!

Parting Thoughts

When you visit Islay, you’re enveloped in this magical blanket of warmth and hospitality. I hope I was able to convey a bit of that in this post along with sharing some ideas on the best things to do in Islay.

I had an absolutely amazing time during my first trip to Islay. It was only 7 days, but it left such an impression on me that I made it my home nine months later!! It’s such a special place – magical even. Everyone was so friendly and lovely to talk to, which continues to this day. The community on Islay welcomed me with open arms, as they will you too!

Not only has Islay enchanted me, but so did neighboring Jura! I’d love to spend more time on Jura.

• To stay or simply to have a meal at the Jura Hotel, famous for their Jura venison and some Lussa Gin ice cream to wrap up the meal.
• To visit the Jura Distillery – their “Jura: The Sound” whisky was the last thing I bought at the Dubai Duty Free airport before lockdown. It was a welcome companion during lockdown days.
• Properly see the island and some wildlife, with Jura Island Tours.
• Find someone to go hiking with, because this wild land needs to be hiked and the remoteness of the island genuinely makes me want to be with someone who knows where they’re going.

Did my determination to photograph all the distilleries extend to Jura? Of course it did.

So as you can see, even though I am not a whisky connoisseur, I’ve had a very fulfilling experience both on my first visit, and now, living there. Islay whisky is world renowned, but hopefully you can see that there’s so much more to the island than just the whisky.

Until next time, hope everyone is staying socially distant and safe. Be well, and find some Islay whisky or Lussa Gin to drink responsibly, friends!

Map for your things to do in Islay

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

• Islands, and therefore an ocean or sea;
• Interesting landscape that’s hike-able;
• Great cuisine, worth breaking keto for;
• Fresh seasonal fruit.

I think this is my personal recipe for ultimate rest and relaxation.  And if you are reading this post, there’s a large chance that you feel the same way.

1. Introduction to Mauritius

Mauritius is an independent island nation 1100 km | 700 miles off the coast of Madagascar in the South Indian Ocean, or 2000 km | 1100 miles off the coast of the African mainland.  Mauritius was an uninhabited island for many centuries.  Although people are not native to Mauritius, do you know what is?  The famous, but extinct, dodo bird. 

The old dodo called Mauritius home, until 1662 when the last one died. Drought, predation by rats, or settlers hunting dodos for food are the primary reasons for the dodo’s extinction. However, the culture and reverence of the dodo bird still continues to this day.

In the Middle Ages, Arab explorers visited the island, but did not stay. Portuguese explorers in the early 1500s did the same and had little interest in staying on the island. It wasn’t until the Dutch inhabited the island in 1638 that Mauritius developed an economy around ebony trees and sugar cane. The Dutch also gave Mauritius its name, after Prince Maurice of Nassau. By 1710, the Dutch abandoned their settlements.

Fast forward an occupation by the French, who brought African slaves to the island, and then a war with the British, that ended in French surrender after 5 days, in December 1810. When the British took over Mauritius, slavery was still ongoing, but by 1835, the crown abolished slavery in its colonies. Following the abolition of slavery, the British brought indentured servants from India to supplement the shortage of labor in the sugar fields. Unfortunately, the Indian indentured servants were not treated any better than the slaves.

By 1968, the British granted independence to Mauritius, with Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam as their new prime minister, and Queen Elizabeth II still retaining the title of head of state, and Queen of Mauritius. Since 1992, Mauritius has been a republic, independent of Britain.

2. Mauritius Conscious Travel

Disclaimer: This post is sponsored, in part, by Mauritius Conscious Travel.

As a true humanitarian, my trip was last minute, and I needed help with planning and booking.  And that’s how I found Mauritius Conscious Travel! Tailor-made itineraries and the focus on sustainable and eco-friendly travel drew me in immediately.  I gave them my dates and things that I liked, and they provided a sample itinerary immediately for review and updates.  We worked together to tweak it to my exact preference. The result was a Lannie-specific 7-day Mauritius itinerary, which focused on hiking and food. 

Included in my custom package:

• 7 nights lodging
• 7 days rental car (automatic transmission)
• Breakfast (every day), lunch (1), dinners (4), one food tour that can sustain you through lunch
• Entrance tickets or local guides for 6 activities
• Suggested activities for free days
• Donation to offset your carbon footprint
• Custom Google Maps for your trip

Excluded:

• Flights
• Travel insurance
• Petrol / gasoline for the rental car

Interested in a trip to Mauritius?
Contact them here and see a sample itinerary,
made just for my blog readers!

3. My Costs

• Travel arrangements by Mauritius Conscious: 1452 EUR | $1631 USD;
• Dubai to Mauritius round trip flight on Emirates (paid by my work): 4275 AED | $1163 USD;
• Kabul to Dubai round trip flight on Emirates (paid by my work): $442 USD;
• Petrol / gasoline for one week: approximately 2,200 MUR | $58 USD.

Total cost: $3294 USD.

4. Lodging

Everything is tailor-made on this trip! Including my choices for lodging, which comprised of local guesthouses with boundless hospitality, delicious local cuisine for breakfast and dinners, and lots of friendly, Mauritian smiles around.

For the first part of my trip, I stayed at a delightful guesthouse in historic Bel Ombre (“bell om” for those who want to pronounce it correctly). Located in the South, the guesthouse is situated on the property of an old Bel Ombre plantation. The stay also included free access of a nearby beach club, as well as entrance to the plantation house.

I absolutely loved staying at this guesthouse! Everything was so stylish and comfortable. The staff were amazing! Every morning, before I could function, they knew I would need a coffee, even before food showed up.

At this location, breakfast and dinner were included. Breakfast typically had made-to-order eggs, crepes, fresh breads and jams, and fruit. The dinners were amazing, and normally has a buffet of Mauritian, creole cuisine or barbecued, grilled meats. The last night I was there, they served a normal sit down dinner, of Mauritian cuisine.

For the second guesthouse, I moved to Belle Mare, on the northeastern coast of the island. Opened by a Thai and Mauritian couple, it was a hidden sanctuary in the tropics. The guesthouse was separate from another complex that housed the pool. The dining area was there too, with a view of the lake.

This location is great for those who want to unwind and take a break from the outside world. WiFi is only available in the public spaces and dining area, not in the rooms. Normally this is fine, as long as I’m mentally prepared for it. Unfortunately, I had work to do, so this made it a little challenging.

The meals at the guesthouse were also amazing! Dinners are usually a Thai and Mauritian mix, with one dinner having a chicken satay appetizer and some curries and cole slaw. Absolutely delicious! The breakfasts were equally as amazing, with a fresh fruit platter, crepes, and some eggs!

Click here to read about Mauritius’ COVID-19 Travel Update

5. Activities

5.1. Eau Bleu Waterfalls

My first day in Mauritius, fresh from Kabul and a long layover in Dubai, I landed at MRU at 09:00 AM. What better way to get rid of the exhaustion of travel than jumping into a fresh pool from a waterfall? I know not everyone is as adventurous as I am, but I cannot recommend this enough!!

Day 1 #Mauritius, a few hours after my red eye flight, I jumped in here. Literally. 🤩🇲🇺 pic.twitter.com/DTsekSRQrn

— Lannie (@lannietravels) February 22, 2020

My guide, Vik, and I did a mild hike to reach a secluded waterfall area, and took a break to jump in and relax. Vik is a part time hiking guide, who has a genuine passion for conservation. We picked up some trash along the way and took it with us when we left. We only have the one earth – we need to take care of it.

5.2. Ile aux Aigrettes

The next day was learning about conservation with a tour to Ile aux Aigrette, an islet off the east coast of Mauritius. The island is a nature reserve and has a research station for local flora and fauna. Ile aux Aigrette is also home to the last remains of the “dry coastal forest”, which before deforestation, covered all of Mauritius Island, as well. Unlike Mauritius, which is a volcanic island, Ile aux Aigrette was formed of calcified limestone layers over the centuries.

Similar to Mauritius Island, Ile aux Aigrette suffered in the past due to logging and land clearance. It wasn’t until 1965 when it was declared a nature reserve, that intense conservation of the island began.

Rose, our guide, taught us about the different species of plants and animals on the island, both existing and extinct. There is also ample bird watching available, but the real stars of the show are the tortoises that live on the island. The one below, next to Rose, is about 90 years old, and old George with me is 100+!

5.3. Blue Bay snorkeling, from a glass bottom boat

A short drive down the road is Blue Bay, the most beautiful waters you can find. Perfect for snorkeling, or relaxing and looking through a glass bottom boat. I honestly could not give you any more specifics on the reef or any of the coral or fish in the bay. The excursion was guided, but they only spoke French from the beginning and I did not make the effort to tell them I only spoke English.

After the glass bottom boat and snorkeling, we were taken across the bay to an island that the government leased out to a resort. We hung out on the island while our hosts prepared a lunch for us! Fish curry, coleslaw and rice. And of course, they paired it with a view of Blue Bay and Lion Mountain, and some rum punch!

5.4. Lion Mountain

The next day, I was back with Vik, attempting to hike up Lion Mountain! I say “attempt” because it was so much tougher than I expected! More on that in a bit…

Lion Mountain is located in the southeast part of Mauritius, overlooking the Vieux Grand Port (the old port where the Dutch landed in 1598) and the coastal town of Mahébourg (pronounced MAY-burg). Rising to a height of 480 meters, Lion Mountain is a landmark on this side of the island. The hike is a bit challenging, and not recommended for people with lower fitness levels. Part of the challenge is the terrain, which varies from the infamous 102 stairs in the beginning, to rocky, uneven terrain. When you get closer to the top, there is also some bouldering. For those inexperienced in “bouldering,” that is both hands and feet on rock face, pulling yourself upward!

Imagine me, with my approx 7-10 kg backpack full of camera gear. Ok, before you say anything, this is my normal hiking backpack weight due to all my camera equipment! When I don’t bring my camera gear, the regrets run so deep that I purposely train to carry all this weight with me on hikes. And in fairness, I didn’t know there would be aspects of “climbing” on this hike. So, all of this just to say, a HUGE THANK YOU to Vik, for being patient and understanding with me. There were moments that were personally challenging and frustrating.

When I say “leave me alone,” I really only mean, “let me try my best to manage on my own.” If I still fail, I will ask for your help and be grateful that you offered help to begin with.

– said the stubborn, independent w-o-m-a-n, who really appreciates the offer.

The hike was originally advertised to take 3 hours total, but Vik and I ended up taking over 6 hours. Sure, we stopped along the way and at the top, but I cannot imagine having done this at twice the speed! Luckily we had enough water and snacks to keep us both alive. And, true to Vik’s eco-conscious ethos, we picked up trash along the way, as well. Unfortunately, as before at Eau Bleu, we found trash inside nooks and crannies of the boulders, as well as at scenic viewpoints. Let’s keep this earth beautiful, people!

We still picked up trash along the way, despite my challenges.

To keep me going at the very end, when motivation was at an all time low, Vik made the promise of bringing me to “the best noodles in Mahebourg.” Is there any better motivation than that? Obviously not. Well, when you promise me noodles at the bottom of a mountain, you better believe I’ll make it down! And we did. Thank you, Vik for the two incredible hikes! And of course, the spicy noodles (called millie boouillie manguac).

5.5. Chamarel

Located in the Rivière Noire District of Mauritius, the village of Chamarel is home to many of the island’s natural wonders – waterfalls, ebony forests, and the 7 Colored Earth. While my itinerary also suggested a visit to the Black River Gorges National Park and the Bois Cheri Tea planation, due to unforeseen circumstances, regretfully, I was unable to make it there. Instead, I added my own nuance, and stopped by the Rhumerie de Chamarel (the Chamarel Rum Distillery) for a tour and some lunch.

I detoured to Rhumerie de Chamarel for a few reasons:

• Given Mauritius’ history of sugar cane and its recent emergence on the global rum scene, I really wanted to visit a rum distillery;
• I heard that its restaurant, L’Alchimiste (the Alchemist), was amazing;
• If you eat lunch at L’Alchimiste, your rum tasting and tour is free!

In addition to the above reasons, the rum tasting came with NINE DIFFERENT RUMS. Nine! Sure, I’ve had eight course tasting menus of tacos and Scottish fare, but alcohol? Nine different rums? It was unreal! I purposely chose to do the tour and tasting before lunch, so I could sober up during lunch. This trip, afterall, has been a solo, driving adventure. Safety first!

Fully sober, I had to cut my day short in search of a gas station. I did not pass a single gas station between Bel Ombre and Chamarel, and after asking several locals, the nearest gas station was in Black River (in the opposite direction of Black River Gorges National Park and Bois Cheri Tea). According to Google Maps, it was about 16 km away, and my trusty car indicated I had 39 km left on this tank.

After awhile, my car stopped its countdown, basically telling me: it’s dire. Get gas now! In situations like that, there is literally nothing you can do but hope that the 39 km, even with a little plus or minus, means you can still at least drive half of that. And even if 20 km (half) was my absolute maximum, I could still make it to Black River to fill up.

I can sense my sister’s anxiety rising as she is reading this. She would never allow the gas tank to get to that level, basically, systematically filling up when the car has one-quarter of a tank left. If only I learned from her… but no. Just so everyone can rest assured, SPOILER ALERT: I made it to the gas station.

5.6. Litchi Wine Tasting

Nestled in the middle of the island is a unique winery, which likes to do things differently. But hey, different is good! I love different!

So, how is this winery different?

Well, for starters, they make their wine from lychees, not grapes! For those who don’t know, lychees are a tropical fruit, with a delightful pink shell covering the white fruit (with a sizeable seed) on the inside. I’ve had lychee martinis and lychee cocktails in the past, but lychee wine was new to me! Due to Mauritius’ varied microclimates, the fruit itself is not grown on the property. The fruit comes from local Mauritian farmers, from the northern part of the island.

Lychee Fruit

Another thing that sets this winery apart from others is their committment to being ecologically friendly. The winery uses Mauritius’ abundant rainwater to wash and clean its fermentation vats. All of the discarded parts of the lychee are subsequently used in the winery’s vegetable garden or on the grounds.

The winery also has a restaurant on site. In the quiet, calm Mauritian countryside, having lunch, paired with a wine tasting, there was nothing more I could ask for in life. The tasting comprised of three different wines – two whites and a rose. The wines are sweet, light and crisp – perfectly refreshing for a summer’s day.

Thank you, Mauritius Conscious, for sponsoring this delightful wine tasting, and for planning such a great trip!

5.7. Port Louis Historical and Food Tour

On my last full day in Mauritius, I finally set foot in Port Louis, the capital city! And what better way to round out the trip than walking, eating, and learning about the history of Port Louis?

Jaya is the most delightful guide. She is also a part time artist who loves sharing insights and stories of her home! The tour took us through Port Louis’ Indian and Chinese neighborhoods to visit generations-old shops, cultural landmarks and of course, trying all the food that we could!

One of the most unique things about this experience was the access to hidden gems around these ethnic enclaves of Port Louis. I can’t give away all the secrets, but it is absolutely worth it! These hidden gems show you a side of Mauritius that you don’t often get to see. Secret places in the Jummah Mosque, behind the scenes look into the Chinese community center (the stuff of my memories!!!), hidden courtyards, and families and businesses that have been around for generations. This experience fills your heart with rich stories of Mauritius and Mauritians and fills your belly with delicious Mauritian food.

6. Parting Thoughts

What an absolute fun-filled week in Mauritius!! Having a tailor-made itinerary gives you so much flexibility to have the exact holiday that you want! Local perspectives and stories made the experience so much richer! Not only that, you can rest assured that you are doing your part in being an environmentally responsible tourist, promoting sustainable travel.

As part of the package, Mauritius Conscious Travel has made a donation to offset all the carbon from your trip, including flights and your driving! That makes this a carbon neutral trip! Feel free to read more on Mauritius Conscious’ Sustainable Travel Policy.

If you are looking for an eco-friendly, sustainable travel option, look no further than Mauritius with Mauritius Conscious Travel!

Would you like to gift a local, Mauritian experience to a friend? Click here to share a Conscious Gift!

7. Partnership

To conclude this post, I am delighted to announce that I have partnered with Mauritius Conscious as an ambassador. I am only counting down the days to when I can return to Mauritius to experience more local delights! Mauritius Conscious also helps create itineraries for neighboring Reunion Island and Rodrigues Island. Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have about my trip, or my partnership with Mauritius Conscious!

As a disclaimer, if you book a holiday with Mauritius Conscious, I am eligible to receive a commission for your referral.

8. Interested in going to Mauritius?

If you’re interested in a trip to Mauritius, enter your contact information and a speciailist will get back to you ASAP!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. My life in Scotland during COVID-19

As you all may know, I have been in Scotland under lockdown since March. Scotland is arguably one of my favorite places in the world, and being here but unable to go out and see the sights was challenging. I’m always yearning to do more and to see more. On the other hand, my friend and I had our share of local adventures and culinary delights. Life inevitably had its ups and downs, as is expected. But for the most part, life is simple. Quiet.

On July 15, Scotland moved into Phase 3 of reopening, which meant that hospitality and tourism opened, with restrictions, and indoor dining with distancing could resume. (For the record, Scotland and England, as well as Northern Ireland and Wales, all have different guidelines for reopening. So don’t assume that all the UK is the same.)

With my time in Scotland potentially coming to a close soon, and my friend’s family visiting from England, I set out for a solo road trip adventure around Scotland. Taking some long overdue annual leave days, and hoping to write about Scottish tourism along the way.

Coronavirus-based travel restrictions change day by day. Before you begin to plan a road trip during COVID-19, make sure you are following local rules and guidelines! And if you’re in the US, how about taking an at-home covid test before you set out just to make sure you’re negative?

2. Planning a Road Trip during COVID-19

First thing’s first. Take all the safety precautions.

2.1 Mask up

Ok, this is in no way political or infringing on peoples’ rights, and is only my personal opinion… but WEAR A MASK. In Scotland currently, when in shops, it’s mandatory. Wherever you are, follow masking guidelines, not only to protect yourself but to protect others too.

It’s probably a good idea to get a few masks, so you can wash them and rotate them often.

The other day, I accidentally sneezed while wearing my mask. GROSS, but this is exactly why you should wear a mask. To contain your germs so you don’t accidentally spread it. (I promptly washed my mask that night so it wouldn’t be disgusting for too long.)

2.2 Prepare to disinfect

What is that Boy Scouts motto? Always be prepared? (Ok, maybe that’s not actually it, but that’s what it is in my head…)

Originally, I thought about getting one of those UV lamp or cases in order full disinfect my phone, keys, etc.  First, I couldn’t get the one that I wanted. Then, there were just too many options on Amazon, with not a huge amount of reviews either.  Third, to be honest, what do I know about UV rays and disinfecting?  It seems like a huge stretch to be carrying around, either a UV wand or box, and not being a science-enough person to know whether or not there would be side effects of running around zapping UV into things…

So, in the end, I decided to stick with what I do know – and that’s the simplicity of anti-bacteria hand wipes and hand gel.   (And, some hand cream so my hands don’t become brittle and fall off due to all the disinfecting.)

I bought two packs of anti-bacteria hand wipes (biodegradable – earth friendly!  And nice smelling, too!).  One would remain with me in my purse, and the other would reside in one of the compartments in the car.  Just in case.

Additionally, I also bought a 500 mL pump bottle of 70% alcohol, anti-bacterial gel.  It fit just perfect for the cup holder in the rental car.  And to be honest, there could not be a more perfect place for it.  Basically, if I am out of my car (for gas, for a coffee, for groceries, for anything, really), the first thing that happens when I enter that place is sanitize my hands at the hand sanitizer station inside their doors. When I re-enter my car, I sanitize my hands.  And just for good measure, once a day, I take my handwipes and wipe down my phone.

3. How clean is your rental car?

I rented a car from Enterprise Rental Cars.  Don’t ask me how, but it ended up being a Jaguar XE.  Excitement!!  So, when going over the rental stuff, the attendant assured me that everything in the car had been sanitized and cleaned.  But then he drove the car over to me.  (If you’re thinking that defeats the purpose, that’s why I have my bottle of hand sanitizer!)

When I got to the car, there was a plastic sleeve over the steering wheel, which I promptly removed.  I did a once over with the main surfaces with my hand wipes, just in case.  Mainly, the steering wheel, the gear shift (which in this Jag, is a knob), the a/c and other buttons, and the screen. 

Plus, if you’re like me and sanitize after getting in and out of the car, you are literally good to go!

4. How Scotland tourism is dealing with COVID-19

So far, what I have noticed, is that when you enter into an indoor space, a shop, a restaurant, a gas station, the first thing you do is use hand sanitizer that has been set up inside the door.  Masks are required in only shops. That means you don’t have to wear them in restaurants. 

Most shops have a one way walking track that you have to follow.  Some of the smaller shops have a queue outside the door, as they can only let in a few people at a time.  So when one person exits, the next can enter.  I don’t really find any of this to be particularly annoying.  

Sometimes I forget to put on my mask, but then I’m literally the only person who is uncovered and then it becomes blatantly obvious.  So just do the damn thing and put it on, you know? It’s really not a big deal.

At some point on my road trip during covid-19, I hopped on a ferry (with my car) out to the Inner Hebrides. CalMac, the ferry company, takes covid-19 very seriously. When we boarded, an attendant brough each of us to a seating area. The lounge seats with tables had a good distance between each other. Some seats were in rows, with alternating rows roped off to ensure adequate distance.

The general rule was, if you were sitting at your seat, you don’t need a mask. But if you walk around the ship, masks on. Of course, hand sanitizing stations are plentiful. Currently, food and services are not offered during the ferry ride, so bring your own snacks!

As for lodging, the three different places I’ve stayed at so far have all newly installed hand sanitizing stations. They are located directly inside the front door, and depending on the communal space, throughout the property. Two of the places were bed and breakfasts. Hosts and hostesses either wore face masks or face shields when in close proximity (i.e. serving me food or showing me to my room). Or, check in and check out is done behind a screen or just via an envelope with my keys/room bill. I’ve managed to feel safe and super sanitized at all of these places!

Parting Thoughts

At first, I was a little apprehensive about taking a road trip during covid-19. But, I think I prepared well, and that lifted some of the anxieties. I think it helps tremendously that Scotland (and its business owners) take re-opening seriously.

So many local businesses rely on tourism and consumers in order to recover. As much as you’re scared to go, they’re scared their businesses or livelihoods may not survive. The sad fact is that many businesses are unable to reopen due to the restrictions and the distancing guidelines. So, now more than ever, whenever you can, support local business!

Going on holiday now is completely a personal choice. And I understand and respect people’s decisions one way or the other. Hopefully my experience can shed some light on how to road trip safely during covid-19.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In 2016, I was living and working in Singapore. A work trip took me to the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. And during the weekend, I made the 3 hour journey south to Provence. Not your stereotypical weekend in Provence – full of flowy dresses, sun hats, and lavendar fields. No no, this was autumn in Provence. And although beautiful, not lavendar season and dreadfully filled with rain. So, where to hide from the rain? Into a stone quarry, obviously.

1. Hidden in the Val d’Enfer

Nestled within the Alpilles Natural Regional Park (Parc naturel régional des Alpilles), within reach of Saint Remy de Provence, is a former stone quarry. The village of Les Baux-de-Provence and neighboring castles used these limestone slabs in their construction, until the 1930s. From then, construction ceased and resulted in the abandonment of the white limestone quarries. So, what remained from those days? Large stone rooms carved into the hillside valley.

2. Carrières de Lumières (Quarries of Light)

Well, what to do with large, white, stone rooms? The obvious answer is to project high definition digital art onto its giant walls. Brought to you by CultureSpaces, this digital art immersion, combined with an expertly paired soundtrack, lifts you from your physical existence inside a stone quarry into a magical realm.

This is Carrières de Lumières – Quarries of the Light.

2.1 Chagall, Midsummer Night’s Dream

Dedicated to the life and art of Marc Chagall, the exhibition at Carrières de Lumières ran from March 2016 to January 2017. Before this, I only recognized Chagall by name, as a painter, but did not know much else.

Marc Chagall (1887 – 1985), a Russian-French artist, was generally referred to by art critics as the “quintessential Jewish artist of the twentieth century.” He’s most famous for stained glass windows, adorning the Reims Cathedral and Metz Cathedral in France, and others as far as the Art Institute of Chicago and Jerusalem. In addition to stained glass windows, Chagall also painted large -scale paintings and murals. Stylistically, his art follows cubism and expressionism.

Below, you’ll see a few photos of mine from my visit to the Carrières de Lumières.

Now that you’ve made it through my old, dark iPhone photos from 2016, you’ll be rewarded with some high definition photos, courtesy of Getty Images. The photos are specifically from the Chagall exhibition, so you can have a clearer vision of my experience.

2.2 Visiting Carrières de Lumières

Centrally located in the South of France, Carrières de Lumières is a simple stop on your Provencal road trip.

• 1 hour away from Aix-en-Provence,
• 30 minutes from Arles, and
• 15 minutes from Saint-Remy-de-Provence.

If you’re coming from Saint-Remy-de-Provence to the north, beware of the winding mountainous roads. You can see what I mean in the area on the map below.

A few things to note:

1. Tickets for Carrières de Lumières cost 13 EUR for adults, with senior and student discounts available.
2. You can book tickets online, here.
3. Carrières de Lumières is also fully accessible for visitors in wheelchairs.
4. Because of it’s location inside a stone quarry, it can be quite cool inside. It’d be wise to have a light jacket or cardigan, just in case.
5. Carrières de Lumières is set to re-open on 19 May 2021. It is typically open daily, with differing hours depending on the month and tourist season. However, up to date information on visiting can be found, here.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

3. Atelier des Lumières

Currently, there are a few sister exhibitions, also run by CultureSpaces. These exhibitions also feature digital art, projected onto the walls and ceilings of large rooms. The other locations are:

1. Paris, France;
2. Toronto, Canada;
3. Bordeaux, France – (Bassins de Lumières).

From the Paris exhibition of Atelier des Lumières

3.1 Toronto’s new exhibit, in the time of coronavirus

By now, you may be wondering what the point of this post is, now, four years after my original visit. With CultureSpaces’ newest exhibit based in Toronto, Immersive Van Gogh, to adapt to coronavirus, they’ve developed a unique idea. Its previews, held between 18 – 28 June, 2020, will be a “drive through” preview – meaning, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the digital art world of Van Gogh, while sitting in the comfort of your car.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

3.2 Health and safety, during an Immersive Van Gogh visit

From 1 July 2020, when the exhibit fully opens, you’ll be able to walk through the exhibition site on foot. For coronavirus precautions, they’ve promised entry at a limited capacity, which allows for 75 square feet of space per person. Immersive Van Gogh’s website also lists the following health and safety features:

• Touchless exhibit — you will not need to touch anything that can be touched by other patrons to enjoy the exhibit
• All patrons are requested to wear masks
• All staff will be wearing masks
• Enhanced sensors at entry to detect symptomatic staff and patrons
• Disinfectant stations through-out the venue
• Frequent disinfectant cleaning of venue surfaces and floors

3.3 Booking your Van Gogh digital art experience

Currently, only time-specific entrances are available to book online. It’s considerably more expensive than when I visited in Provence. Ranging between C$34.99 on weekdays to C$39.99 on weekends, the elevated price tag may because of the above enhanced safety features due to coronavirus. I’m not entirely too sure.

However, it appears that CultureSpaces is taking the need for physical distancing seriously, and enhancing their experience accordingly.

Parting Thoughts

Whether you’re in France or Toronto, if you love art and want to enjoy it in a modern, new way, I highly recommend Carrières de Lumières and Atelier des Lumières. As an art lover, I absolutely loved it. Although Chagall isn’t my favorite artist, I enjoyed learning about him through the exhibit and again whilst researching this post. Without a doubt, if the exhibit showed your favorite artists, it’d be exponentially more enjoyable.

As a reminder, although I only visited the Provence location, I presume the experiences in Paris and Toronto to be similar and exceptionally interesting. I especially appreciate the additional health and safety considerations in the time of coronavirus. As always, stay healthy and stay safe!

For those art lovers, check out my posts on:

• favorite art from the National Galleries of Scotland;
• art nouveau in Brno, Czechia;
• the best places to visit for Van Gogh fans;
• Giverny, Monet’s gardens and home.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In June 2019, I returned to Scotland after a year and a half away. Previously, the Beast from the East greeted me with a fever and frigidly cold weather. This return to Scotland was much better, but filled with rain. I mean, well, Scotland. To be expected, I suppose. While the purpose of my trip wasn’t to go up to the North, I had a few extra days after my friend left, and I do enjoy random, remote destinations, so the North it was!

1. Road trip along North Coast 500 (NC500)

It was a spur of the moment decision, and I didn’t do much research before hand. I had never heard of the North Coast 500 (or NC500, for short) until I arrived. For those who don’t know, the North Coast 500 is a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland. The Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative launched NC500 in 2015. Parts of the route go alongside the North Highland Way (a 150 mile hiking trail).

Your NC500 road trip begins and ends in Inverness (near the bottom, around the number 69 above), which divides into six regions: Black Isle, Caithness, Easter Ross, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, and Wester Ross. This trip, I spent most of my time in the Caithness region (up north, at number 24 above). But I did drive that full length of the right side from Inverness and back, and it’s a beautiful drive. Of course, you can do your own North Coast itinerary – but we all have to start somewhere. And Caithness was the section for me!

Also, I wish I had discovered the North Coast 500 website prior to going, but alas. There seems to be a lot of information on the area, with nice recommendations. But, no one ever said I was that smart. 🙂

2. How to start your North Coast 500 Itinerary

I rented a car, which is advisable for Scotland. Especially if you want to go anywhere outside the city. And also considering how remote it is outside the cities, it really is a must. Also, the NC500 is a road trip, so perhaps you want a car for that. 🙂

Wick, one of the bigger villages up in the North, is about a 5-7 hour drive from Edinburgh, depending on roadwork, lunch stops, and general driving breaks. It’s a beautiful drive though, mostly traversing wide open Scottish Highlands. But beware – there are lots of windy, one lane roads. You’ll have to be comfortable being behind large lorries until you have time to pass, and passing is always a scary venture.

From Inverness, Wick is about a 2-3 hour drive.

3. My North Coast 500 Itinerary: Where I stayed

By the time I decided to head to the North, I pretty much had a mad dash to book a place to stay. Many places I contacted via email were unavailable. It was last minute and summer season.

I ended up at “The Naze”, which I found on Airbnb. It is a delightful bed and breakfast about 10 minutes drive from John o’Groats and 20 minutes drive from Wick. The Naze offers comfortable rooms and incredible hospitality!

Pasty and her husband, Tony, were the most wonderful hosts. They are a retired couple from the area, who rent out rooms in their house. They enjoy a bit of company and variety in their day. Given how remote this area is, it is really nice to have a chat and a cup of tea at the end of the day.

Let me just say that besides the immense hospitality, the breakfasts at the Naze were just UNREAL. Not shown in the below picture, is coffee, toast, and a croissant. The plate of charcuterie, with salamis and cheeses, was also really delicious.

4. Places and Things along your North Coast 500 Itinerary

The NC500 has gorgeous scenery everywhere you go. It’s picturesque, vast landscapes aren’t the only great things about the North Highlands. There are in fact many things to do and see along the NC500. The below is a list of the places I visited and the things I did.

4.1 John O’Groats

The village of John o’Groats is the most northerly village in Great Britain and the gateway to the Orkney Islands. There was a time between 2005 and 2012 where it was called a “seedy tourist trap” by Lonely Planet and “Scotland’s most dismal town” by Urban Realm. Since then, they village has undergone a transformation. Although it’s not bustling, I wouldn’t be so harsh on it as to call it seedy or dismal. It has its challenges, which I’ll note below. But this is probably the biggest village in the area. Wick (a bigger town) is about 20-30 minutes away.

First thing’s first. John O’Groats does not have a grocery store, but does have a post office (priorities, I guess?). The one day I tried to go to the post office, it was only operating for half a day that day. Low and behold, it was closed. Additionally, while there are places to eat, the only option after 5 pm is the Seaview Hotel.

I cannot emphasize this enough. Either you have food (that you brought with you) or you eat your evening meals at the Seaview Hotel. I went there once during my stay in the North, and while it was definitely hoppin and the place to be, I didn’t find the food too spectacular. But when you’re pressed for options, it’s a decent meal.

I ordered a salmon, as one does in Scotland. I wished the skin would be deliciously and delightfully crunchy, but … it wasn’t.

Besides the Seaview Hotel, a nice cafe is Stacks, which is located near the harbor. Every time I wanted to go, was past 5 pm, and they were already closed. I did manage to go the morning before I left the North. Their cheese scone and chocolate rice krispy treat were AMAZING road trip snacks!!

I didn’t take a photo of the inside of the Stacks itself, but when I went to the restroom, I found this inside, which I GREATLY appreciated. It was taped to the paper towel dispenser. Because let’s get totally real… #MeToo.

Besides the two places I managed to eat, John o’Groats also has a really nice harbor area for a stroll and some fresh air. The ferry to the Orkney Islands departs from the harbor. The above colorful buildings, aka the Inn at John O’groats, is located right at the harbor.

4.2 Duncansby Head

Just outside of John o’Groats, is Duncansby Head. Located at the most northeasterly point of the British mainland, there is a lighthouse and the Stacks. There is a place for you to park your car near the lighthouse, and then you just walk into an open field towards the Stacks. A word to the wise, it is wildly windy and brisk up there, so dress appropriately! Tie your hair up and grab a beanie.

There is a cliffside ravine on the way, where puffins normally are. If you are lucky enough to be there the same day they are! I had no such luck, but I did get to see a variety of other sea birds nesting there.

Finally, the Stacks come into view. It makes the cold, blustery day all worth it.

So, even though the Stacks are obviously rock protruding out from the sea, I’ve never come across sea stacks before. Sea stacks, vertical columns of rock found near the coast, are formed by wind and wave erosion. I thought that little nugget of information was pretty cool!

4.3 Castle of Mey

Further up the coast, you’ll come across the village of Mey, which is home to the Castle of Mey. The castle, which I only know of from Netflix’s The Crown, was purchased in 1952 by Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, after the death of King George VI. When the Queen Mother purchased the castle, it was derelict and falling apart. She spent 3 years renovating it before she moved in, and would stay there every year until her death in 2002.

Nowadays, the Castle of Mey is open to the public from May 1 to September 30. In July and August, King Charles III and Camilla, the Queen Consort, visit the North Highlands and stay at the Castle of Mey for up to 2 weeks. During that time, the castle is closed to visitors as they take up private residence there.

The King and Queen Consort have also opened up Granary Lodge, a luxury B&B, on the premises of the castle. My Airbnb host heard a rumor that when the King was remodeling the B&B, he spent about 2,000 GBP on a single bathtub. So if you’re looking for a bit of luxury in the north, there you go! Fit for a King!

A 11.95 GBP adult admission ticket will grant you access to the castle, grounds, and garden, with a tour of the castle included. (You also have the option of just visiting the grounds and garden for 6.50 GBP). There are no photos allowed inside, but it was a really great tour. The guide told us wonderful stories of the Queen Mother. She seemed to have a great sense of humor and truly loved living and staying at Mey.

Also, a helpful tip. Since I am always concerned about food, I had originally wanted to eat lunch somewhere before I arrived at the castle. I googled and settled on the Castle Arms Hotel in Mey. Ya, they’re not open until dinner time. The Castle of Mey does in fact have a nice visitor center with cafe, and I ended up eating this delicious cheese scone along with a coffee. So, either plan to eat there, or don’t visit on an empty stomach. You probably shouldn’t expect to find food in Mey afterwards, either. Are you beginning to get a sense of the remoteness of the North Highlands?

4.4 Dunnet Head

Keep heading north, and you’ll arrive at Dunnet Head, another landmark point. Dunnet Head is the most northern point in mainland Scotland and the island of Great Britain. Not to be confused with Duncansby Head, which is the most northeasterly point.

Similar to Duncansby Head, many people frequent Dunnet Head for a glimpse of puffins and other sea birds. I’m sure you can guess that luck was not on my side that day, and although I did see lots of birds along the below cliff, none of them were the adorable puffins I was after.

Want to read about when I finally did manage to see puffins? Check out my post, here!

There were some trails leading away from the lighthouse that I wandered onto, which brought me view of Long Loch and the Loch of Easter Head.

When I left Dunnet Bay, along the B855, I suddenly saw two stacks protruding from the water, and a trail that appeared to go down to them. See them down on the map below? Obviously, I had to stop an inspect.

Part of the reasons I love casual road trips is the ability to stop and explore when the mood strikes. I’m really happy I did. Besides the rain, one of the things I remember most vividly about this day, was the gorgeous light green moss that covered the pier.

4.5 Wick

The town of Wick is further south than all of the above locations. And it is probably the biggest town you will encounter in the remoteness of the North Highlands. On the Google Maps below, I pinned two things in Wick – the Lidl supermarket and Harrold Bros Butcher Shop.

I have to be completely honest – I did not do anything else besides drive through Wick. I’m sure there are things to do there, but I just didn’t have time. But Wick is the place to buy groceries and things. I can’t emphasize this enough – you need to stock up on supplies when you take a trip to the North Highlands. The Lidl has most everything you could need. And I mention the butcher shop because, local butcher shops are an institution in Scotland. I discovered the greatness of the local butcher on this trip to Scotland. When in Scotland, I will probably never buy meats at a grocery store again.

As you may know, for now, I am mostly on mission in Afghanistan. Some things, like great meats, can be challenging to get. I stopped by Harrold Bros before I left and bought a variety of sausages, steaks, burgers and bacon to bring back with me. The butcher kindly vacuum sealed everything with frozen packs, and I popped it into my insulated back from Lidl. I was able to come back to Kabul and mildly recreate a Scottish breakfast with my housemates.

5. Other places to see along this NC500 Itinerary

The below are a few places that I did not manage to go to, but could be of interest to you on your North Coast 500 road trip!

• Dunrobin Castle – you’ll pass by on your way to Wick, from Inverness – arguably one of the most gorgeous castles in Scotland!
• Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – if castles are your thing, the be sure to visit (the ruins) Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, the earliest seat of Clan Sinclaire.
• Old Pulteney Distillery – got a hankering for some whisky tastings? Stop by the Old Pulteney Distillery in Wick.

If you’re looking for camping or even wild camping spots, feel free to refer to this NC500 Camping Guide, from my friend and fellow writer, An Orcadian Abroad.

6. Parting Thoughts on my North Coast 500 Itinerary

Now you have a brief introduction to the North Coast 500, which is arguably one of the best Scottish road trips. In my next post, read about my day trip out to the Orkney Islands, from John o’Groats. The NC500 has different sections, and mine mostly covers Caithness. Whatever NC500 route you choose, a few things to remember:

1. Most sections of the NC500 is in fact quite remote, so in addition to large open landscapes and sheep, the next thing you’ll see in abundance are the same tourists everywhere.
2. Food may be hard to find. Some places close before 5 pm, other don’t open until 5 pm. It’d be best if you went grocery and snack shopping in Wick on your way into the north.
3. Remember that chances are, it’s cold and windy, so bundle up. Warmth is more critical than fashion.
4. Some areas do not have great cell / mobile signal, so consider preparing for your NC500 road trip with a physical Ordnance Survey map of Northern Scotland (includes Orkney and Shetland!).

And last but not least, I’ll leave you with the motto of the Order of the Thistle, which is Scotland’s highest chivalric order:

Wha daur meddle wi’ me.

No one provokes me with impunity. (or) No one can harm me unpunished.

This post nor blogger promotes violence, just merely sharing the national motto of Scotland.

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Starting in Inverness? How about a day trip or two before you head out.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In Scotland, there is no such thing as bad weather…only the wrong clothes.

I must be the luckiest gal alive to be in Europe during the freak “Beast from the East” winter storm.  Snow in Edinburgh crippling the whole city, but I’m not in Edinburgh.  I’m on the Isle of Skye, where temperatures have fallen below freezing for the first time since 2010!  But I am lucky because… I have all of my winter gear from Iceland.  So THANK YOU giant North Face coat and Sorel snow boots!  

1. The Spoons on Skye

My original plan for Skye was to go hiking and work on my essays.  The first day on Skye, windchill was 13°F | -10.5°C.  So hiking?  No thank you.  But I did manage to get some work done, in the coziest, most amazing place I stayed at!  The Spoons on Skye is a “luxury self catering” guesthouse, which to Americans, really just means it is a vacation rental, not a bed and breakfast. 

My stay at the Spoons on Skye was absolutely amazing, and big bonus, they do leave some food for you in the refrigerator for when you arrive (i.e. eggs, delicious bacon, juice, milk, yogurt, granola, and some tomatoes).  It’s actually a huge plus having those provisions, because everything in Skye is close, but takes a long time to get to. 

Portree, the main town on the island, is only a few miles away, but takes about 20 minutes driving to get there… mostly because of potholes and windy roads.  It’s not a single track road, like other roads on the island.  In order to buy anything, you have to go into town.  And when it is cold as it’s been in years on Skye, one is thankful to have some food at home before having to go out and buy more provisions.

And, through much trial and error, I finally figured out how to layer logs in the wood burning stove, and start a fire!  Which is SO COZY when it’s freezing outside.

Isn’t Spoons on Skye the most gorgeous place ever?

Anyone looking for an amazing, cozy, homey and super lovely place to stay, look no further than the Spoons on Skye! It’s extremely highly recommended by yours truly!

Eventually, I did end up venturing outward on the second day.  Hiking in the cold is fine, but hiking when there’s monstrous wind and the cold, can be tough.  Also, since I just got over my Jerusalem illness, I didn’t want to overdo it physically.

2. Hiking the Old Man of Storr

Hiking the Old Man of Storr was something that I knew I had to do on Skye. The Old Man of Storr is a rock formation, located a few miles north of Portree. 

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There is a small parking space, but most people just park up the road from there, since the parking space really only accommodates less than 8 cars (my educated guess).  There is one sign at the beginning and then a gate and the path up. 

It’s fairly steep on the way up, and that’s not to be underestimated.  It was supposed to be 40 minutes (one way) up to visit the Old Man.  I don’t know what pace that equates to, but going at a steep incline, I was taking several breaks “for the view” but also to catch my breath.  haha.  I passed through 3 more gates, and I still didn’t arrive at the Old Man.  Apparently during this time, I had gone up 52 floors, according to my phone.  And not wanting to overdo it, I gave up and started the much funner descent.

3. Visit to Portree

After my exhausting hike, I decided to stop by Portree and take a look around town.  It’s the biggest town on the island, and to be honest, the rest of the places on Skye that you can see on Google Maps are not towns.  They’re maybe a small grouping of houses (probably less than 10), maybe one post office that might double as a store, and likely no restaurants to speak of.  But Portree was a big town, with hotels, a grocery store, shops, restaurants*, and a harbor. 

*There is a little caveat with the restaurants, because most are not open in the off season.  And even then, the ones that are open close during afternoon hours between lunch and dinner, so there is very limited hours of service.

A visit to town isn’t complete without a stop at the co-op, or small grocery store, to stock up on goods.  Bought enough stuff to cook an amazing soup that kept me warm the rest of the day.

Stay tuned, for my next entry on my trip to the Fairy Glens and my road trip around the Trotternish Peninsula!  But for now, I need to pack, as I’m leaving Belfast for Dublin!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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