If you’re having trouble pronouncing Cheltenham like me, don’t think too hard about it – it goes by quick: CHELT-en-em.

Cheltenham is famous for a number of things, mostly unrelated to each other and random, in comparison with each other:

• Cheltenham is the most complete Regency town in the UK and you will get Pride and Prejudice vibes from the old spa town. Cheltenham came to prominence after King George III was recommended to “take in the waters” from the mineral springs in 1788.
• Now remember, I said … unrelated.
• Cheltenham is the headquarters for GCHQ, Britain’s home of signal intelligence. The building, affectionally called a donut because it looks like one, does not accept visitors. However, there are some fun murals around town that remind you that they’re there and always listening.
• Previously called the “Calcutta of the Cotswolds” and an “Anglo-Indian Paradise”, Cheltenham had the most Anglo-Indian residents in Britain outside of London. Because of Cheltenham’s history with The East India Company and the British Raj era, it is home to a number of incredible South Asian restaurants.
• Cheltenham is at the gateway to the Cotswolds or at the edge of the Cotswolds. It could be a great base for exploring all those cute picturesque Cotswolds villages!

• It’s home to the Cheltenham Festival, “a horse racing-based meeting in the National Hunt racing calendar in the UK, with race prize money second only to the Grand National.” – wikipedia
  • Sorry to use the definition from Wikipedia, but having never gone to a horse race, I wanted to use the right terminology when I described it. In National Hunt racing (or jump racing), horses are required to jump fences and ditches. And the biggest National Hunt events in the UK are the Grand National and the Cheltenham Gold Cup.
• Besides the big horse racing festival, Cheltenham is home to over 30 different festivals, and is known as the Festival Town! Among the bigger festivals are the Cheltenham Jazz Festival (April-May), the Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival (summer), the Cheltenham Paint Festival (for street art, in September) and the world’s first Literary Festival (October).

With the variety of things to do in Cheltenham, there really is something for everyone!

Before I begin, parts of this trip were sponsored, including my stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments, as well as my bike ride around Cheltenham with Compass Holidays. I sincerely thank them for inviting me on this trip. Besides the cycling tour, all itinerary arrangements and opinions are my own.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s go!

Day 1 – A Foodie Weekend Getaway in Cheltenham

I arrived to Cheltenham Spa rail station midday Friday on a brisk but sunny March morning, having taken a short 45 min train from Birmingham New Street. The station is located about a mile outside of the town center. A quick stop at Beechurst Serviced Apartments to drop off my bags, and to check out my nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham. (all the details below!)

I couldn’t have been more anxious to get out and about. Easily enough, the bus into town is located right outside. Turn left out of the apartments to take Bus 97/98 Gold directly into Cheltenham. Turn right (and cross the street) for the bus to Gloucester.

Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the UK’s most complete Regency Town.

Le Champignon Sauvage

Knowing that Cheltenham was a foodie town meant carefully selecting each of my meals in order to maximize my time there. Of course, last minute planning also meant that my first meal happened to be the most extravagant – a lunch tasting menu at Le Champignon Sauvage. Le Champignon Sauvage, or the Wild Mushroom in French, had been Cheltenham and Gloucestershire’s only Michelin Starred restaurant for many years until nearby Lumiere was awarded a star this year (2023).

Run by husband and wife, David and Helen Everitt-Matthias, since 1987 Le Champignon Sauvage has been an institution in culinary Cheltenham. An old review I read called Chef David’s style as “a pure marriage of rich and poor” opting to use cheaper cuts of meats and offal, along with food foraged from the Cotswolds’ outdoors, in classically French dishes.

Of course, people can say this is part of the sustainable eating, zero waste fad. But to be honest, Chef David and Helen began doing this decades ago, when a recession hit and times were tough. And you’d never feel like you were eating anything less than stellar. Not only is the food absolutely exquisite, but the experience is complimented by the lovely and unique decor, thanks to Helen. The restaurant is filled with incredible art that kept this solo diner enthralled throughout the meal.

My 3-course lunch set me back 47 GBP (a great deal if you’re hungry, considering the 2-course option is 40 GBP). Despite me showing you only two courses, you better believe I had all three. 😉 This was the perfect start to my foodie weekend in Cheltenham.

After lunch, I needed a serious stroll. Luckily, the town is very walkable with lots of outdoor green spaces. I made sure to stop by Montpellier Gardens and Imperial Gardens to soak in the brisk spring day, but in reality I was on a food mission to try Cheltenham’s signature pastry.

The HorseChoux Pastry at L’Artisan

A foodie visit to Cheltenham is not complete without your signature HorseChoux pastry from L’Artisan. Paying homage to the racecourse, the horseshoe-shaped pastry is made with a choux bun base (see what they did there? love a good pun) and cream puff filling, with a thin, light chocolate horseshoe on top. The attention to detail is lovely, as each chocolate horseshoe has the 7 lucky pins on the horseshoe.

I opted for the original flavor, the Racecourse, with hazelnut and almond praline filling. You can also get the Pittville Park (pistachio), the Pump Room (zingy lemon) and the Queens (raspberry). They also have limited edition flavors as well!

Getting a HorseChoux pastry in Cheltenham is an absolute must if you’ve got a sweet tooth! I took one back with me to Beechurst Serviced Apartments, and it made the most delightful snack paired with a strong coffee!

After grabbing my HorseChoux, I did another turn about town before catching the bus back to the apartment for a wee rest.

The Curry Corner

Sometimes I underestimate how tiring it can be to be walking around outside in briskly cold weather. My wee rest turned into curling up in the cozy Holst Apartment for way too long, and suddenly it was time to sort my dinner. I knew it had to be South Asian food, due to Cheltenham’s history and importance with the British East Indies Company.

For those interested in this unique intersection of history, food, India and Imperialism, I’d suggest the Curry and Colonels tour. (Next time for me!)

I opted for The Curry Corner, an award-winning restaurant opened by the Krori family, which claims to be one of the oldest Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK! Thankfully, they deliver which made all my cozy dreams come true. I may have gone a little overboard with 2 orders of samosas, but such is the benefit of having a full kitchen and refrigerator at my disposal! Leftovers for later. 😉

My two orders of samosas were the regular veggie samosas along with an order of Brixham crab samosas, filled with Cornwall fresh crab. Of course, the fresh crab samosa would catch my eye! It was stunningly flavorful, sweet even. I’m so glad I got both samosas for some extra variety!

The main event had to be the Chef’s signature 16 spice masala, which I had with lamb tikka. Add an incredibly fragrant garlic pilaf rice with it, and you have a perfect night in! Chefs Shamsul and Saleha Krori have been cooking since the restaurant opened in 1977, and is now joined by daughter Monrusha in the kitchen.

Day 2 – exploring Cheltenham by bike

After a fabulous first day focused on food, Day 2 in Cheltenham would be spent exploring the Regency Cheltenham cycle trail on bike, thanks to Compass Holidays. The self-guided trail, which starts at the Cheltenham Train Station, is a gentle 6-mile trail, taking you along the Honeybourne Line, through Pittville Park, and back around through to the town centre.

This activity was kindly gifted by Compass Holidays.

There were a few admin items to take care of before setting out: download the app (for my cycling GPS) and adjust the height of the bicycle to fit me. Remember, safety first!

Prices for the Regency Cheltenham Cycle Trail are:

• the mobile app with GPS and information on the cycle trail – 10 GBP;
• standard bicycle hire (25 GBP) or e-Bike hire (35 GBP). All hires include mobile phone mount, helmet, lock and basic repair kit.

and then I was off, along the Honeybourne line (an old railyway line) and onto the Pittville Pump Room!

The Pittville Pump Room

The Pittville Pump Room, built between 1825 and 1830, is the largest (and newest) spa building to be constructed in Cheltenham. The waters around Cheltenham were known to have high mineral content since the early 1700s, but it wasn’t until King George III visited Cheltenham in 1788 that the town became increasingly famous for its waters. Unfortunately the Pump Room did not prove to be successful venture, and the Room and the grounds were passed to the town council in 1890. Nowadays, you’ll find various exhibitions being hosted there, as well as being a concert venue for the Cheltenham Music Festival.

The Pump Room is located on the northern end of Pittville Park, and is a lovely park with a playground for families. One of the lovely green spaces that Cheltenham has!

Cheltenham Racecourse & the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway

From here, although it’s not on the Regency Cycle Trail, I thought it was worth a slight detour to go visit the racecourse. When I visited, the Cheltenham Festival was only a week or two away, and excitement around the races were high. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see any horses, jockeys or even the race track itself, but it was fun to take a stroll around the grounds.

From one end of the racecourse to the other is a little surprise that I discovered – the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway. For those rail enthusiasts, this is a volunteer-run heritage steam and diesel railway that travels 28 miles between Cheltenham Racecourse and Broadway (Cotswolds). The route follows the Great Western Rail’s old Cheltenham – Birmingham main line, which use to run via Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.

For 25 GBP, you can get an unlimited day ticket to go between Cheltenham and Broadway, riding in 70 year old train carriages, pulled by either a steam or diesel-powered locomotive (engine car). This definitely goes hand in hand with a “step back in time” to experience Cheltenham theme! I didn’t have time on this trip for the rail journey, but I hear the views across the Cotswolds are absolutely stunning!

Lunch at The Coconut Tree

After having worked up an appetite from the morning’s cycle and exploration, and checking my map for the rest of the route, I decided now would be the perfect time to pause and have a lunch break. You can’t be too surprised at this priority.

I don’t know if it was the South Asian mood I was already in or if I was just craving Sri Lankan street food, but I decided to go with the Coconut Tree for lunch. Interesting story, 5 Sri Lankan friends made their way to the UK to be closer to family or to continue their studies. One of them made Cheltenham his base, and the rest followed soon after. In 2016, the 5 friends had to move out of their flat and were looking for a new place with cheap rent. They came across the flat above St. Paul’s Tavern (which included the rent for the pub) and from there, the idea of a Sri Lankan tapas place with great cocktails was born.

After 6 months of renovating it themselves at night after working their day job, the first Coconut Tree opened in Cheltenham. Today, they have locations in 9 cities across Southwest England and Wales.

For me, it was an egg hopper (coconut milk pancake, with lots of sambol) and black pork (belly). The food was incredibly flavorful (and super authentic!) and the vibe was fun and easy going. If I didn’t have to cycle home, I definitely would have tried some of their delicious cocktails! The Coconut Tree is definitely a must eat in Cheltenham!

After lunch, I was back on the trail and enjoying spring starting to blossom around me.

The trail takes you back into the city center, and it’s a great time to pause to roam around on foot. Besides the distinctly Regency architecture, there are a few sculptures and things you’ll come across that definitely require a more detailed look. Two of my favorites would be the Neptune Fountain, rumored to be inspired by Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and the Hare and the Minotaur on The Promenade. These two vastly different sculptures really only highlight Cheltenham’s culture of creativity and arts, which the town loves to celebrate through its numerous festivals.

The CheeseWorks – always planning ahead!

I took the opportunity whilst in town to do a wee bit of shopping. I stopped in a few vintage shops and almost came home with a gold embroidered cloak! What if there is a ball? You never know when you’ll need one? But the real excitement of my shopping experience was at CheeseWorks.

I walked into CheeseWorks with a mission – to get local charcuterie that would become my quiet dinner at home. I began chatting with the clerk over the local cheeses, and then he asked what I was looking for. “Honestly,” I said, “I just want to spend about 15 GBP, and get a random spread of local meats and cheeses.”

Simple enough, you came to the right place.

-The Cheeseworks

I’ll be honest, I pick and chose the cheeses at random, but one that was phenomenal was the wild garlic Cornish yarg. In the photo above, you’ll see a block on the bottom right wrapped in something dark. Well, it’s wrapped in wild garlic. If you’re a garlic head like me, you’ll love this! And with an additional 3 GBP, I added a fig jam spread (my favorite!) and some linseed crackers, and I was completely sorted for a quiet dinner at 18 GBP!

Parks and Gardens around Cheltenham town

I mentioned earlier that Cheltenham has a lot of lovely green space for little strolls and people watching. Armed with a latte from the Clementine Cafe, I went around the parks and gardens, found a bench, and sat enjoying my afternoon. Spring was on the verge of blooming, so I bet they’re even lovelier in warmer months! Be sure to check out

• Sanford Park (below right) – take in the wandering foot paths with the Annecy Gardens and Italian Gardens brightening up the park in warmer seasons,
• Imperial Square and Gardens (below left) – located near The Promenade, and planted with thousands of bedding plants for lush floral displays. With Regency architecture surrounding the square and the Garden Bar (in the summer), the best thing you can do is grab a drink and soak in Regency Cheltenham around you!
• Montpelier Gardens – near town center, Montpelier Gardens is mostly divided into two sections – one with tennis courts, a cafe and facilities, and the Gardens Gallery community art gallery. The northern section is more for picnics, walking, sitting, and overall low key hanging out.

With my charcuterie platter in tow, I made my way back to Beechurst Serviced Apartments to coorie in for the evening. If you didn’t want to stay in like me, I’d suggest MUSE Brasserie, Mowgli Street Food, Lumiere (Cheltenham’s newest Michelin Star restaurant), or Purslane Restaurant (known for their sustainably caught seafood!). For those wanting a great cocktail, I’ve heard incredible things about The Alchemist Cheltenham. Those are the ones that kept my attention during my trip research and the ones I’d go back to Cheltenham to visit!

The next morning, I managed to run out for a quick breakfast at WOODKraft before my train. In case anyone was wondering, after a weekend of eating, it was a delectable granola with yogurt and passionfruit. Had I not been rushing out the door to catch my noon train, I would have rounded out the weekend with a quick trip to Gloucester to visit the Gloucester Cathedral, which originally broke ground in 1089! For those Harry Potter fans, the Gloucester Cathedral was used as a filming location for Hogwarts. But alas, train schedules call!

My stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments

Beechurst Serviced Apartments are located in a renovated, grand Victorian farmhouse, just outside of Cheltenham town. There are 5 beautiful and spacious self-catering apartments for you to choose from – four one-bedroom apartments and one studio flat. Owned and operated by Angie and Steve, seasoned veterans of the hospitality industry, Beechurst Serviced Apartments is a family run business. Their previous experience in luxury hotels can be seen in the thoughtful touches around the apartments. There is everything you need to just come in and make it your home for the weekend!

One of the first things you may notice about Beechurst Serviced Apartments when you arrive are the solar panels on its roof. This helps to reduce the building’s energy requirements by almost 40%, which is incredible! That also means that they’ve cut down on single-use amenities to reduce waste, so be sure to pack your bathroom toiletries along with you.

All of the apartments at Beechurst Serviced Apartments are named and decorated after prominent people who came from Cheltenham. For me, it was the Holst Apartment, named after Cheltenham-born Gustav Holst, a composer best known for his orchestral suite, The Planets. Little musical touches were added to the Holst Apartment, keeping in line with the theme.

The Holst Apartment was so comfortable and cozy, and really, such a nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham! Having a full kitchen at your disposal is something that I enjoy, especially when my whole weekend centered around food! I’m not going to lie, I heated up and nibbled on my Bangladeshi curry and delicious samosas as a snack throughout the weekend, and was so grateful for that kitchen!

Despite spending the majority of the brisk weekend outdoor walking and cycling around town, the shower in the Holst Apartment was exactly what I needed – hot and incredibly powerful. Perfect to loosen the muscles and immediately climb into the comfortable bed.

Besides the kitchen and the incredible shower, which are phenomenal amenities, each of the apartments (and studio) has a large, smart TV mounted and a bookshelf with plenty of books to choose from.

Although Beechurst Serviced Apartments sits outside of Cheltenham town center, the bus stop directly outside made going in and out of town super easy. You really don’t need your car for your weekend in Cheltenham, and it’s easy and lovely seeing the sites by bicycle on the Regency Cycle Trail. But if you want to use Cheltenham as a launchpad for a wee getaway in the Cotswolds, then your car will come in handy!

Whether you’re looking for a foodie weekend getaway or a short break to “take in the waters”, Beechurst Serviced Apartments make for a wonderful base for a weekend getaway in Cheltenham!

Parting Thoughts on my Foodie Weekend in Cheltenham

WOW – I could have never expected that Cheltenham was so delicious!! Prior to visiting Cheltenham, I had no idea that it had such a strong, historical South Asian connection that is still very much alive in its cuisine! Foodies will definitely not want to miss the HorseChoux Pastry, which pays homage to the annual Cheltenham Festival and races.

From Sri Lankan street food to the UK’s oldest Bangladeshi restaurant on one end, to some of the best local charcuterie from one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, the Cheltenham food scene encompasses a lovely mix of historical, traditional and local. The fun and vibrant culinary scene continues to expand with restaurants and cocktail bars being recognized by outsiders more and more.

Staying at Beechurst Serviced Apartments was perfect for me with easy access into town and all the homely touches I needed for a weekend away.

To conclude, my weekend in Cheltenham was a wonderful escape for anyone looking for a little bit of history along with a culinary adventure. Whether you’re a horse racing fan, a foodie, or just someone who loves exploring new places, Cheltenham has something for everyone. With its charming streets, picturesque gardens, and mouth-watering food, you’ll fall in love with Cheltenham in no time. Cheltenham is easily accessible as a weekend getaway from London (or even further afield like Glasgow)! It’s a town that will steal your heart and leave you yearning for more!

For other foodie adventures around the UK, feel free to check out:

• a love letter to Shetland I wrote after visiting to explore their food culture;
• a foodie adventure around Edinburgh, exploring the Scottish capital with haggis, whisky, and all the greats of Scottish cuisine;
• a delectable food and whisky pairing hosted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Planning your trip to Cheltenham

1. How to get to Cheltenham?

• Cheltenham Spa Station is accessible from London Paddington on GWR, which only takes 2 hours with no changes.
• There are also direct trains to Cheltenham Spa from if you’re coming from Manchester Picadilly (2 hr) and Birmingham New Street (45 min).
• For all available trains into Cheltenham Spa

2. Ideas for things to do in Cheltenham and best places to eat in Cheltenham

• Join the Regency Cycle Trail with Compass Holidays and see the historic town on 2-wheels!
• Explore Cheltenham on a self-guided 90-minute audio tour of historic Cheltenham town at your own pace! For only 5.56 GBP / 7 USD, you get a Blue Badge tourist guide accessible any time through an easy app. Click for your self-guided tour of Cheltenham!
• For something a little funner and different, go on a scavenger hunt through town and explore Cheltenham that way! Great for groups and families!
• Stroll around town and enjoy the variety of street art and sculptures!
• Soak in the waters at Cheltenham’s spas – the Greenway Hotel & Spa and the DoubleTree by Hilton Cheltenham are considered the best!

Cheltenham also has a variety of afternoon tea services, which is on point for Regency Cheltenham. I wanted to go and enjoy afternoon tea, but alas – other food called 😉

• The Queen’s Hotel, The Regency Tea Rooms, Malmaison, Once Upon a Tea Room, and No. 131 Restaurants are the afternoon tea in Cheltenham that came up most during my research.
• Or, for a completely different spin on afternoon tea, (for you sushi lovers) Kibou has a Japanese-inspired afternoon tea that I really wanted to try! But alas, next time.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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I’m no stranger to sleeper trains or overnight travel, having often slingshot my way across Europe using a complex and random combination of overnight trains and buses. Of course there were also the (slightly miserable) ones in Southeast Asia, slowly bouncing along at night from Bangkok to Laos, where you felt the tug and pull of the train every time it thought it could. But that was then, this is now. So sit back, relax, and let’s chug along together on this overnight train adventure!

Welcome to the Caledonian Sleeper, your sleeper train to the Highlands.

1. Introducing the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper is the only sleeper train to Scotland and is a true gem of British travel. Whether you’re heading up to Scotland for business or pleasure, the Caledonian Sleeper is both luxurious and convenient – two factors that often make the best journey. It has cozy private cabins and individual seats (something for everyone!), delicious dining options (both room service and in the club car / lounge car), and stunning views of the English and Scottish countryside.

From London Euston at night, the Caledonian Sleeper connects you to one of these great places in Scotland:

• Edinburgh Waverley
• Glasgow Central
• Inverness: includes stops in Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore
• Fort William
• and Aberdeen.

(accessible room shown above)

For the purposes of this post, I am writing with London as the starting point. This trip can also be done in reverse – from any of those 5 locations in Scotland, down to London in the morning.

There are a few different options for seats / accommodations on board the Caledonian Sleeper. Both seats and cabins have accessible options for those who may need it. Train tickets for accessible rooms and seats can now be booked online!

Prices for the Caledonian Sleeper depend on the actual route you’re taking (some are longer than others) and how early you book your tickets, so with all things, planning ahead is always better!

• Comfort Seats start from 50 GBP,
• Classic Rooms from 175 GBP for Solo or 205 GBP for Shared,
• Club Rooms from 235 GBP for Solo and 290 GBP for Shared, and
• Caledonian Doubles from 345 GBP for Solo and 410 GBP for Shared.

(Hooray for pricing that doesn’t include a single supplement!)

These prices are for a one-way journey. If you want a round trip, simply book two one-ways. There are no cost savings with booking a return journey.

– Complimentary Sleep Kit and Amenities Bag (Double Only)

The complimentary Sleep Kit, which comes with all reservations, includes an eye mask and ear plugs. The additional pouch with Arran Sense of Scotland amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, lip balm, anti-bacterial gel and hand cream) are included in Caledonian Double.

– Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?

The short answer: if you’re 2 people – definitely yes! If you’re 1 person, I still say yes – even if you want to get a cabin.

Normally, I travel between London and Glasgow on the Avanti West Coast train. On average, it costs 100 GBP one-way and takes 4.5 hours. When you take into consideration a hotel room either in Glasgow (100 GBP) or London (200+ GBP), the cost justification becomes a little easier.

• To compare, on average, the Classic Room on this route costs 210 GBP and will take between 8-10 hours. But, you’ve moved from A to B in your sleep and you can start your day in a new city!

Additionally, according to a 2021 Rail & Transit Study, taking the overnight train to Scotland instead of flying reduces the carbon footprint by almost 90%!

• the study was based on a domestic UK flight between London and Inverness, and one hotel stay;
• Total kgCO2/ep for Flight & Hotel: 288.9
• Total kgCO2/ep for Caledonian Sleeper: 33

So, taking the sleeper train is an environmentally friendly way to travel between London and Scotland!

2. The new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston

Prior to my near-midnight departure from London Euston, guests in Caledonian Club Room and Caledonian Double Rooms are invited to relax in the new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston. If you’re heading to Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can access the lounge starting from 20:45, basically after the passengers for the Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness train are fully boarded onto their train.

The new lounge, just opened in 2024 is located on Platform 1, right next to where you’ll board the train. With comfortable seats, free drinks and snacks available (hot foods and alcohol available for a fee), and clean, shower facilities, what’s not to enjoy about the lounge?

For me, it had been a long day, so a shower was a must. Yes, I have a shower inside my Caledonian Double Suite, but a stationary shower is better than one where you’re balancing with the motion of the railway tracks! And boy, after a long day, there is nothing better than a shower!

Just ask the lounge attendant for a towel. The showers are equipped with Arran Sense of Scotland shampoo and body wash.

💡Expert tips on showering in the Euston Guest Lounge:

• I always travel with a pair of flip-flops, and I’m glad I had them with me! There was no bath mat available yet.
• There are also no hair dryers yet, so either ask for an extra towel in the beginning or use your bath towel to towel dry your hair.
• There is a heated towel rack in the cubicle.
• While there is room in the shower cubicle for my small luggage and backpack, I continuously had to maneuver around to grab things out of my luggage that I needed. Smartly pack your bag in advance to accommodate this!

The Euston Guest Lounge is brand new in 2024, and it was already a relaxing way to start my journey. I didn’t opt for a pre-boarding meal, but I spotted a few folks enjoying the haggis, neeps and tatties. It looked great!

For more details on lounge access:

• Euston Guest Lounge
• Other stations

3. Boarding the Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re in the lounge, an announcement will be made when its time to board. But if you’re not in the lounge, the sign boards in London Euston station will let you know when boarding begins. The Caledonian Sleeper departs from Platform 1, which is on the very right end of the station.

The carriages are in order depending on where /when you depart the train. There are train attendants along the way to show you the way, and to check you in once you arrive at the right carriage. They’ll tell you that your room (if you had one) is unlocked and the key is found inside it.

And while it’s not mandatory by any means, might I suggest plopping down on your bed for an obligatory comfy selfie as you settle in and relax for your overnight train journey ahead!

4. Food and Drink options on the luxury sleeper train to Scotland

Honestly, who would I be if I didn’t devote a mini section to the food and drink?

The food and drinks available on the Caledonian Sleeper differ depending on which route you’re taking – Edinburgh and Glasgow routes enjoy the Lowlander menu, whereas Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William guests will have the Highlander menu. I took a quick peak at both of them, and don’t worry – no matter if you’re traveling the Lowlander or Highlander route, whisky, haggis, and Irn Bru are on both menus, so rest assured – you can try all 3 and become an Honorary Scot!

Traveling on the Caledonian Sleeper during the summer time means that sunrise is earlier, and you’ll get incredible views while you enjoy your breakfast.

If you’re in the Caledonian Double (first class) or the Club Room, breakfast is included in your ticket, which can be eaten in the Club Car or served in your room. Note the final breakfast service times at the bottom. For most destinations, you’ll need to be served before 7 am (except Fort William and Inverness), so if you’re not an early bird, set an alarm so you won’t miss breakfast! Hang your breakfast order on the door within 30 minutes after departure.

There is also an in-seat / room service dining menu available for Classic Room and Seated Coach travelers.

– Limited Edition Caledonian Sleeper Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Annandale Distillery

2023 marks the 150th Anniversary of the Caledonian Sleeper train, and boy are they celebrating in style! In collaboration with Annandale Distillery, a Lowland scotch whisky distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, Caledonian Sleeper has just released an exclusive Caledonian Sleeper Whisky on a limited run of 200 bottles. Matured for 8 years in an American oak ex-bourbon cask, this single cask whisky is bottled at 50% ABV.

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According to the press release, the Caledonian Sleeper whisky,

“offers hints of creamy sweet toffee combined with the crisp flavours of ripe granny smith apples and conference pears.”

-Annandale Distillery

Commemorate your trip by purchasing a 5cl bottle (with exclusive Caledonian Sleeper labeling) to enjoy as a nightcap or a future souvenir.

Sales of the Caledonian Sleeper limited release single cask whisky will benefit Railway Children, an international charity working with street children, and a bottle will be auctioned off with proceeds benefiting Give a Dog a Bone, a Scottish loneliness and animal charity.

To find out more about the Caledonian Sleeper whisky and to book your journey,

5. Caledonian Sleeper First Class Review – my true life experience

I am writing this section at 05:30 from an empty Club Car, as the train sits at Edinburgh Waverley station waiting for our Edinburgh passengers to alight. It’s my first trip on the Caledonian Sleeper

The train normally departs London Euston past 23:00 but there were some planned engineering works on the tracks, so our departure time was earlier than normal. By the time I fell asleep around 22:30, we hadn’t really left the greater London area yet. We chugged along for a bit and then stopped for quite some time. I don’t know why, but I was waiting for the excitement of a moving train before going to bed. Sometimes we can be a bit silly, I guess.

I read online that the Club Car can get rowdy and busy at night, and due to limited seating, you should hurry up and rush there to grab a table. Passengers staying in a room have access to the Club Car, with those in Caledonian Doubles having priority access. And as soon as I got settled in my cabin, I went down to the Club Car. Over the next hour, only a handful of people used the Club Car – a lady was dining, two gentlemen were having a drink, and another gentleman was sitting reading on his iPad. Maybe I just boarded a train full of introverts, which is fine by me.

So now that I’ve done the Club Car, it’s time for me to shower and head to bed. Towels are provided in a big pouch hanging on the door.

Although it’s small, I’m grateful for the en-suite bathroom and shower. I didn’t expect the shower pressure to be anything to write home about, and it definitely isn’t. For people thinking about washing their hair, think twice. The water pressure on my train was definitely not strong enough to rinse shampoo out of your hair.

The toilet basin has a big wooden cover with a handle, so you really only lift up the cover when using the toilet. There is a little nook inside that stores the toilet paper, so nothing gets wet when you shower.

Be careful, the lock on the door latch juts out, and maybe I bumped into it while showering.

Regardless of if you have a toilet and shower in your cabin, all cabins include a sink and basin for brushing your teeth and washing your face.

In the cabin itself, the bed made up the majority of the room. My luggage went under the bed, which left me with a small standing area / walkway between the door and the sink. For me, a somewhat clumsy but petite person, I bumped and knocked myself along the walls as I changed into my pajamas.

I dimmed the lights and began to settle in bed, but I quickly got up to grab the eye mask from the complimentary sleep kit and put it on. Various emergency buttons emit light in the cabin, and this gal enjoys complete darkness in sleep.

When my alarm woke me at 04:00 (don’t ask), I had slept better than any overnight journey in memory. Although I remember feeling the train moving in my sleep, it didn’t feel disruptive but rather a gentle lulling. And that brings me to now, 05:30 am, in the Club Car enjoying my bacon roll breakfast by myself.

Don’t let my simple bacon roll with its tongue sticking out dissuade you from choosing a simpler breakfast versus the full Scottish. Sometimes a bacon roll with a smidge of brown sauce is all I need to start my day in Scotland right!

After my breakfast roll, there was plenty of time to hang out in my cabin as we made the final leg of the journey between Edinburgh and Glasgow. The majority of the journey was completed under the cover of night. As dawn was about to break, I opened the window blinds for some light and some views. By then, the countryside was already in the distance, and I was left with urban views to finish off the evening’s journey.

6. Parting Thoughts on my overnight train to Scotland

All in all, I was happier with this train ride than I thought I would be! I’ll be honest that I had been eyeing this overnight train for a long time, but each time I’d see the 2-300+ GBP price tag per room, it would stop me in my tracks. But in reality, I never spent the time to think about how much money I would save with one less hotel night in Glasgow/London. So in the end, for a solo traveler, it isn’t too bad!

The double bed was very luxurious for the train, when you’d normally only have a bunk bed. I don’t think I need the first class Caledonian Double every time, but for my first time, it was a nice splurge.

However, I do think you need to set your expectations for what a “luxury overnight train” should be. In a different time and place, luxury train travel would include caviar, afternoon tea services, and glamour that oozes affluence and class like James Bond. While the Caledonian Sleeper isn’t all that, it’s still very nice and a wonderfully comfortable journey!

Since my first time on the Caledonian Sleeper, I’ve have used this overnight train service a number of times, in both the Club Room (bunk beds) and the Double Room. While the Double Room is definitely more luxurious with the big bed and no second bunk hanging over you, the Club Room is still a very comfortable overnight train experience.

While I’ve heard people complain about the top bunk being hard to access with a moving train, I just have to remind folks that this is indeed a moving train. People with mobility issues should not attempt to mess around with the top bunk, as the train’s motions on the train tracks aren’t guaranteed to be seemless. Think of it as turbulence on the rails, and something you need to be careful of.

Similarly, that also means the train rocks and sways as you sleep as well. Light sleepers may be bothered by this, and while this is still a comfortable journey, it’s definitely not the same as sleeping in your own bed. I just want to manage expectations, because the Caledonian Sleeper is a truly fantastic overnight train.

Also, for those wanting to take advantage of the stunning views of the countryside, be aware that outside of summer months, the nights are dark and long. If you’re only traveling between London and Glasgow / Edinburgh (the Lowlands), expect to arrive in Scotland still under the cover of night. If you’re headed all the way up to the Highlands, you may catch a glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise before you disembark.

Taking the train in the summer with the increased daylight hours really only make the journey more stunning, especially those traveling on the Highland lines up north. You’ll be able to enjoy the beautiful highland landscape with your morning coffee and breakfast.

Whether you opt for a simple seat, a Classic Room (bunk beds, no toilet/shower), a Club Room (bunk beds, with en-suite), or a Double Room (big bed, with en-suite facilities), there is something for everyone’s budget and sensibilities.

And with that, my Caledonian Sleeper review comes to a close. And I bid you adieu!

I hope you found my review of Caledonian Sleeper to be helpful. It truly is the best (and only) sleeper train to the Highlands from London. I’ve included some itinerary suggestions and a detailed frequently asked questions below in case my write up didn’t touch upon some of your questions.

To book the amazing Caledonian Sleeper, visit www.sleeper.scot.

7. Ideas for your Scottish adventure?

Now that you’ve decided on taking the sleeper train to Scotland, let’s plan your Scottish adventure!

• First things first – if you’re traveling to Scotland as an Outlander fan, look no further. I’ve written all about the Outlander filming locations you can visit, with public transpo directions or tours you can take. Step through the stones to Lallybroch or Castle Leoch during your trip!
• In Edinburgh, don’t miss:
  • visiting Holyrood Palace, the Scottish home of the British monarch,
  • get introduced to Scottish food on a delicious food tour;
  • enjoy the National Galleries of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
  • take a tour of the Water of Leith and Dean Village (shown above).
• In Glasgow, be sure to check out Glasgow Cathedral, the necropolis, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
  • Be sure to immerse yourself in some whisky, with a visit to Glengoyne Distillery! You’ll be surprised how quickly you got out of the city and into highland heaven!
  • Take a day trip to Oban (seafood capital of Scotland) and Glencoe on a Highland lochs and castles tour!
• In the Highlands and Islands,
  • Need a hotel recommendation for Inverness? How about staying at Ness Walk, a 5 ⭐️ luxury hotel that recently won the Most Romantic Hotel in the UK❣️ I’ll be designing a foodie itinerary for Inverness in collaboration with Ness Walk, so stay tuned for that!
  • Balmoral (and the Cairngorms National Park) is one of my favorite places to go and unwind;
  • set out on the North Coast 500 for some spectacular scenery!
  • go further afield with a day trip to Orkney!
  • Use the Scottish Islands Passport for ideas and to help plan your adventure!
• Last but not least recommendation: here is a carefully curated list of the best seafood in Scotland.

8. FAQ for the Caledonian Sleeper

• Is this the only overnight train in the UK? No, aside from the Caledonian Sleeper, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs overnight train services between London and Cornwall.
• How much luggage can I bring with me? Each guest can bring 3 items of personal luggage on board for free – two suitcases (no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm / 11.8 in x 27.6 in x 35.4 in) plus one item of hand luggage.
  • If you have larger items, let the on-board teams know and they can store it separately.
  • There is space under the bed for your suitcases. If you are staying in the Club Room or Caledonian Double, do not put your luggage in the en-suite bathroom, because if it falls it can block the door from opening.
• How much is the Caledonian Sleeper family ticket? Family ticket prices depend on how many rooms are required per family, but there will always be a guaranteed bed for all travelers, including children. A quick check showed 2 adults, 2 children in 2 classic rooms, booked as a family ticket cost 450 GBP. But as noted above, prices vary depending on a number of factors. There are a handful of inter-connected rooms available for families.
• Is there a first class on the Caledonian Sleeper? Caledonian Double ticket-holders are considered in first class, which is why they have a big bed, receive the extra amenity kit and have priority seating in the Club Car.
• Is there lounge access before boarding? The guest lounge, similar to an airline’s first class lounge, is a good way to relax before your journey. Different stations have different lounge specs (some include showers, others share lounge space with other train lines, access to some depend on your ticket type). Get more information on the lounge and your access.
• Can I bring furry friends on board? Up to 2 pets can join you on board if you’ve reserved a room. Sorry, for those who booked seats only, your furry friend can’t join you. There is no ticket cost for your furry friend, but there will be an additional 30 GBP cleaning fee per room.
• Can I bring my bicycle on board? Yes you can! Bicycles don’t cost extra, but you will need to reserve a space for it during your booking. (whoops, forgot to? Don’t worry – just contact Guest Services and they will add the bicycle reservation to your booking).
• Technical stuff: Yes, there is Wi-Fi on board, but there are some sections of limited service. In each room and at the comfort seats, there are power outlets (and USB-A ports) for charging small devices.
• Shower, if I don’t have the en-suite: For those traveling in seated coach or class rooms (and do not have an en-suite shower), you can purchase Shower Tokens on board to access showers in Fort William, London Euston, and Inverness after you arrive. Towels come included!
• Left Luggage facilities: If you need to dump your luggage before or after your trip, there are left luggage facilities at London Euston, Glasgow Central, Glasgow Queen Street, Edinburgh Waverley, Inverness and Fort William for a fee.
• Railcard discounts? Certain National Railcard holders may receive discounts on their fare, depending on a few factors. Read up on the Railcard Discounts offered on Caledonian Sleeper.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The Bregenz Festival or Bregenzer Festpiele is an annual operatic event, which hosts two operas every summer. One opera takes places inside the Festspielhaus (or the Festival House), and one is a famous Opera on the Lake.

1. Introducing the Bregenz Festival and the Seebuhne

The Bregenz Festival is hosted from late-July to late-August, and showcases two different operas.  There are two stages, the Seebuhne (the lake stage) and the Festspielhaus.  But really, the Seebuhne is where the action is at.  The lake stage is exactly that – an elaborate stage built to float on Lake Constance, with the Alps and gorgeous alpine landscape as a backdrop.

The lake plays a role in the story too.  Each opera has a new, larger than life floating stage on the lake which lasts at least 2 seasons.  I’d imagine that the building of such a massive stage warrants the multi-year showing.

Bregenz is located about 8 hours (by train) away from Vienna and less than 3 hours from Zurich.

2. James Bond Filming Locations in Austria – the Bregenz Festspiele

Some of you may know that James Bond has always had an affinity with Austria. Do you remember my post on visiting the alpine offices of Dr. Madeleine Swann in 2015’s Spectre?

A few years before Spectre, there was Quantum Solace (2008). There’s a scene where Mr. White and associates are watching a performance of Tosca and discussing pipelines. James is somewhere in the background watching and listening to them, having stolen one of their earpieces. You may remember it because of the giant eye on the stage.

Now, I wouldn’t say that I intentionally visit places inside movies, but seriously, how cool is that eye and that stage?! And an opera too? It’s definitely one of the most incredible James Bond filming locations in Austria! Sign me up!

3. My first attempt at visiting the Bregenz Opera

In 2013, when I had a summer school program in Vienna, I knew I had to visit Bregenz. Although Bregenz is far from Vienna, I was absolutely determined to visit. Bregenz is located on the western end of Austria, situated on the banks of Lake Constance, where the German and Swiss borders meet Austrian shores.

That year, Mozart’s The Magic Flute was showing.  However, due to … unfortunate, unforeseen employer circumstances, I had to cancel my trip to the Bregenz Opera and thus my ticket.  Luckily, I was able to give away my hotel reservations and tickets to a friend, who happen to be in Vienna for a conference at the same time. 

Behold the absolute magic of what he witnessed – The Magic Flute at the Bregenz Festival.

4. 2018 Bregenzer Festspiele: Carmen

When I was finally able to fit a return to the Bregenz Festival into my schedule, the selected opera on the lake for 2017 & 2018: Carmen, by George Bizet. Not going to lie – one of my favorite operas!

When I arrived in Bregenz, the chance of rain for the night of the performance was about 60%.  The following day, that had risen to 80%.  Accuweather got even more specific. Rain was scheduled to start at 9:30 PM, the exact start time of the show.

When you’re gonna get drenched checking off a bucket list item… ☔️@bregenzfestival @VisitBregenz pic.twitter.com/gjqgWpjHjh

— Lannie (@lannietravels) July 21, 2018

Although I would have loved nothing more than to get dressed up and watch this grand opera on a lake, with the impending thunderstorm, I thought it silly to do so.  I’m really glad I dressed down and brought my rain jacket.  I’m also glad the rain didn’t ruin my camera, which I had to put inside my backpack, on the floor.  I was trying my best to use my rain jacket as a shield and I guess it worked.  Suffice it to say, it rained about 75% of the whole show.  Poor me, yes, but poor performers!  They did an AMAZING job and I thank them for performing in the rain, so flawlessly and beautifully!

The stage was also amazingly constructed!  Now that Carmen’s official run is over, I can give it away some of the details… the cigarette stayed lit and smoking during the whole show.  There were images of playing cards and some videos or photos projected onto the massive playing cards.  There were scenes where people were on top of the cards and repelled down!  Carmen jumped into the lake!!!  What an amazing show.  Absolutely amazing!  Was it fun sitting in the rain?  Absolutely not.  But it was definitely a once in a lifetime experience, and you have to admit, there’s something kinda funny about being forced to be outdoors during a downpour.

5. Bregenz Festival 2023

The 2023 Opera on the Lake will feature Puccini’s Madama Butterly! For anyone wanting to make the journey in 2023, here are the deets:

Practical Information: Visit Bregenz for the Opera on the Lake

• In 2023, Bregenz Festival, or Bregenzer Festspiele, will be from July 20, 2023 to August 20, 2023.
• Madama Butterfly by Giacomo Puccini will be performed.
• Tickets are already on sale.
• Ticket prices range from 30 to 258 EUR ($34 – 288 USD).
• More information and ticket sales is on their website.
• Bregenz is located approximately 2 hours from Zurich by train (19 to 38 EUR | $22 – $43) or a 7 1/2 hour train ride from Vienna (78 EUR | $89 USD).  Fares can be found on the OEBB website.
• I had a very comfortable stay at the Hotel Germania in Bregenz, a 4-star hotel 350 meters away from Lake Constance. Highlights for me were definitely the Finnish sauna and steam bath they had, and my dinner before the festival!

Information updated as of November 23, 2022.

6. Parting Thoughts on the Bregenz Festival

If you’re a huge fan of James Bond (and honestly who isn’t), and an opera fan, and you want to visit some incredible James Bond filming locations in Austria, then the Bregenz Festival is definitely a must! While you’re in Bregenz, check out nearby Solden for a mountain-top Spectre location.

If James Bond isn’t your thing, but outdoor operas or outdoor performances are, the Bregenz Festival is a fun thing to do on a weekend during the summer!  Although cold and drenched by the end, I’m so happy that I finally got to watch my favorite opera, Carmen. To be able to watch it on Lake Constance, with the Alps in the background, even more surreal and magical.  Bucket list: Check!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

A few years ago, your average American would likely not have heard of Slovenia or considered it as a holiday spot.  However, with the rise of Instagram, Lake Bled has become a magical destination – even for destination weddings!  You could even be like my friend Steven, who had a magical wedding at Lake Bled.

As a part of the former Yugoslavia, Slovenia is nestled between Austria, Italy, Croatia and the Adriatic Sea.  The landscape has rugged mountains (as part of the Julian Alps), glacial lakes, and beautiful wooded areas.

1. Train from Vienna to Lesce-Bled

Vienna is the perfect base to take a long weekend in Lake Bled. I began my journey in Vienna, where I took the 8:20 am train from Wien Hauptbanhof to Villach. There is a quick and easy switch from Villach to Lesce-Bled. Truthfully, I almost missed the stop at Lesce-Bled. Too busy admiring at the beauty out the window!  I arrived at Lesce-Bled around 1:50 pm.  From the Lesce-Bled train station, I took a bus into Bled town.

1.1 Bus to Bled town

I didn’t realize it at the time, but public transportation buses in Bled, and perhaps Slovenia, are actually what we would consider charter buses.  While there was a luggage compartment below the bus, I didn’t know this at the time.

Lugging a rolling luggage (with backpack and purse) onto a charter bus is the most miserable thing I can think of.  If you find yourself in this situation, do yourself a favor and just open the lower compartment yourself before you board. There is an unforgettable, unusual, “Dino Park” on the way into town.  And yes, it is everything your imagination thinks it would be. I couldn’t take a picture of it, as I struggling with my luggage and half-sitting in my seat.

In three words, my Airbnb is

Bled itself is a small town that surrounds the beautiful Lake Bled.  Lake Bled is more or less famous for the island, with a church, in the middle of the lake.  For 10 EUR, a tourist boat can take you onto the island so you can tour the church.  During my time there, I did not end up doing that, more or less because my purpose was to photograph the island and surrounding areas.

2. Ojstrica – Sunrise Hike Lake Bled

There are several hiking trails in and around Bled, which can offer you views of the lake and the island.  Most easily accessible is the Ojstrica, which is on the southwest side of the lake.  I went up to this viewpoint one morning for sunrise.  Sunrise was scheduled for 5:15 am that morning. According to Google Maps, it was a 45-50 minute walk from where I was staying on the opposite of the lake. Before 4:30 am, I was out the door.  I was in Bled in late May, early June, and it rained quite a bit. Be prepared!  Accuweather said it would rain at 7 am, so I had some time.

I mostly followed Google Maps. The path is mostly flat, around the circumference of the lake.  Towards the end, you veer off into a wooded, forested area, where a slight incline begins.  There are a lot of eroded and slippery stones (slippery from the rainfall the night before) along the way, so be careful.  Before Google said I arrived, I found this sign.

This is where you stop with your app and follow the sign.  This is where it begins to get steep. Basically, you begin to climb upward, but only for less than 5 minutes, until you reach the peak.

2.1 Sunrise

I arrived right around 5:17, and though shrouded by clouds, daylight was about to break.  There were a few people already enjoying the sunrise, and in a strange irony, the 6 people up there, including myself, were all Americans – one couple toasting with champagne, part of a family, and then me.

Watch this video on YouTube.

I would have said that it was peaceful up at the top, but for some reason, somebody down at grown level was doing some heavy gardening. All we could hear was the revving of a weed whacker, from about 5:30 to 6 am.  Things don’t always turn out exactly the picture-perfect way you want it to.

I stayed until about 6:45, when I realized I should get moving because of the aforementioned rain forecast.  And as a testament to the greatness of the Accuweather app, at 6:56, I felt the first drops of rain.  I rushed to grab my rain jacket and put the rain cover over my backpack to protect my camera. 

Getting caught in the rain is probably one of the more lighthearted things in life. Everyone I passed along the way gave each other an acknowledgement and a little chuckle. Basically, “Yep, I’m caught in the rain too.”

I got back around 7:30 am, exhausted and starving.  Why didn’t I stop along the way to get food?  Because when you pack your bag at 4 am, you think to yourself, “Why do I need money?  I am going to be in a forest.”  You bring money because you’ll be starving on your way back otherwise.

3. Well deserved breakfast

Luckily, Bled town is small. From my Airbnb, I can reach everywhere within five minutes.  I stopped by Caffe Peglez’n, which has a very adorable indoor area and an outdoor seating area.  The interior was decorated with a kitchy, vintage vibe.

I had a simple ham and cheese panini.  It was simple but bigger than I imagined, and perfect for refueling.  Things happen slowly in this part of the world. By 9 am, I finally finished and headed back.  After a shower, I took an amazingly long nap.  I haven’t done many sunrise hikes in my day. Even after my nap, I couldn’t recover from the exhaustion of the day.

4. Dinner and rain…again…

Later in the day, I agreed to meet J. I met her the day before at lunch, when both of us sat alone at neighboring tables. And we decided to eat together.

The following day, J and I decided to take a day trip to Lake Bohinj, in the Triglav National Park.

Read all about the fantastic day full of waterfalls, glacial valleys, and stunning hikes!

Of course, I knew it was going to rain (thank you, Accuweather).  But silly wardrobe choices. My rain jacket wouldn’t match with the dress I was determined to wear. Therefore, I was woefully unprepared for the inevitable downpour that came.  Why a dress you say?  I’m a firm believer that if you feel terrible, but you look nice, you will start to feel better… unless you are caught in the rain, and then … well, I’m just stupid.

Although J and I both ate almost an entire pizza while waiting for the rain to subside, it never did. After about an hour, enough was enough.  Don’t get me wrong, the pizza was delicious. However, my energy level was declining. I desperately needed to get back to my bed.  So, thank you to the tourist shop next door, and the 5,50 EUR umbrella that I bought.  There was a foreign woman looking at umbrellas too. When we made eye contact, we both started laughing both at ourselves and at each other.

Watch this video on YouTube.

Rain can bring good humor, if you let it.

And for an existential note on rain to finish the post, rain brings life, but it also takes away.

5. Information on your Sunrise Hike, Lake Bled

Train

• OBB: One-way, second class ticket: 39 EUR | $46 USD
• Wien Hbf to Villach Hbf: 8:20 am to 12:46 pm
• Villach Hbf to Lesce-Bled: 12:53 pm to 1:50 pm

Bus

Lesce-Bled to Bled main station bus fare: 1,30 EUR | $1.50 USD

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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Overnight train to Warsaw

The night train from Vienna Hauptbanhof leaves around 10:15 pm and arrives in Warsaw Central around 9:15 am.  I paid ~ 130 EUR for a single berth compartment, with a washbasin.  It’s the same compartment as the 3-berth, but the two other bunks were up against the wall.  Here is a short video of inside of the tiny compartment.  (Yes, I am wearing hello kitty shorts, seen in the reflection of the window. The temperature when I first boarded the train blasted heat on high and I could not handle it.)

Watch this video on YouTube.

The compartment was clean and the ride was relatively smooth.  It took awhile to figure out the main light switch and temperature adjustment switch. All of them are above the door, which required me to stand on top of my bed to reach.  When we reached Krakow around 6 am, there was a mild annoyance. The attendant woke Krakow passengers up around 5 am, which caused a lot of commotion and various noises.  But like I said, only a mild complaint.  In the morning, before we arrived in Warsaw, they served breakfast – hot coffee and an unexciting piece of bread with cheese and jam.

1. Arrival to Warsaw!

The first thing you see when you leave the Warsaw Central station is this magnificent beauty. Even though I arrived in the morning, the photo was taken at night (obviously).

This beloved giant was a “gift” from Stalin to the people of Warsaw. The Palace of Culture and Science (or PKiN for short) was built in the 1950s and designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev in the style of socialist realism.  An imposing building that stands out in the Warsaw skyline, it’s still relatively controversial among the locals who see it as a reminder of Soviet influence.

But I digress.  I went across the street from the central station to the Warsaw Marriott hotel (8,000 Chase points transferred to Marriott).  My room wasn’t ready yet, but that’s fine.  I was ready for some pierogies.  I knew exactly where I was going to go. 

2. Bar Bambino for pierogies

Bar Bambino, a traditional Polish “milk bar” or bar mleczny in Polish.  Retro’ish milk bars have popped up in Warsaw as a throwback to the Soviet days, when food was scarce and state-run restaurants served cheap eats.

I looked at the menu online on the train and google translated a few items.  But I was unprepared for the FULL BOARD of menu items.  Milk bars typically don’t have English menus or English speakers.  What to do? I stood at the board staring mindlessly at all the choices.  I let a few people go in front of me, while I watched how they ordered, took their receipt up to the window and handed it to the kitchen women as they waited for their food.  And then, when finished, took their plate up to the other window for dishwashing.

When I finally felt confident enough to order, I basically walked the woman behind the cashier up to the board and pointed to the first item under the pierogi category.  You really can’t go wrong with choosing the first item.  It was 7.80 zlotys, which is about $2.30 USD.  Surprise pierogi for breakfast! For those who don’t know, pierogies are dumplings, usually comprised of potato, cheese, and/or onion, and are typically boiled.

It was mushroom filled!  and a great choice!  What was so surprising was the huge slab of butter that appeared on my pierogies, and had melted by the time I brought the plate to my table.  Well, if this is how locals do it, I might as well embrace the butter.  Remember this phrase, which could be a motto for life in Europe… ✨✨EMBRACE THE BUTTER✨✨.

3. Chopin Museum

From Bar Bambino, I walked on toward the Frederic (Fryderyk) Chopin Museum.  The museum, housed in an old mansion, which like much of Warsaw, was destroyed in WWII and then rebuilt to exact specifications after the war.

Chopin is the favored son of Warsaw, and the namesake of the Warsaw International Airport in town.  Although he died in Paris, he wanted his heart sent back to Warsaw. And so it was… in a jar of cognac…  Still interred in the same jar, his heart now resides at the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw.  I don’t know if you can see the jar or the heart but there you have it.  It’s there.

The Chopin Museum is fairly well done.  It relies a lot on technology – the entrance ticket is a card. Most exhibit items required you to scan the card to hear his music, or to hear about his life, etc.  It was a little unnecessary at best.  A button “activating” the exhibit would have sufficed.  But nonetheless, it was a nice museum dedicated to his life and music.

4. Desserts at Odette

After the museum, I was hungry.  Does that happen to anyone else?  I mean, also, the butter periogies were probably still digesting.  But I know I had to try some of the desserts that Warsaw is famous for.  {So the choice that did NOT win, was a chocolate lounge…}  The winner was Odette, a decadent patisserie, hidden a few side streets away from the Royal Route.

I obviously did not know what dessert corresponded to what flavor, but I figured a brown one could never go wrong.  Flavors could have included chocolate, coffee, hazelnut, etc.  And yet, the dessert I chose had none of those flavors.

With each bite, I really tried hard to think of what flavors were in this dessert.  And to be honest, I literally COULD NOT figure it out.  So blast me if you will, I tried really hard to identify it.  What it was not: chocolate, coffee, or hazelnut flavored.

5. The hunt for traditional Polish food

After dessert, I went back to the hotel to check in and take a little nap.  By 3:30 pm, I decided it was time for a late lunch and I set out looking for a specific, traditional Polish restaurant that had multiple locations around town.  I passed one of the locations, which had a huge line out the door, and decided to move on toward the second location.  The second location was closed until February 13th.  So I walked on to the third location, in the heart of Old Town.  But I was met with a police blockade of the whole Old Town area.  (I later heard that if there is any kind of political event, they just shut down Old Town.)  I couldn’t go around, and the police told us everything was shut down so we should turn around.

By this point, I WAS STARVING.  As I walked back, I decided to just eat in any Polish restaurant I came across, determined to stick with my theme of eating only Polish food.  I came across Ceprownia, which had a sign for a Potato Pancake Festival in the doorway.  That’s good enough for me.

By the time I finished dinner, it was around 5 pm.  All of the museums were closed and I would be unable to attend my evening plan, a Chopin concert in Old Town, so I went back to the hotel and was lazy for the rest of the night.  No judgment… part of vacation is relaxing!  Stay tuned for the conclusion of my weekend in Poland.

6. Photos along the way

But first, here are some random scenes from Warsaw.

Day 1 Recap*

• 9:30 AM: arrival to Warsaw Central Station | map
• 10:15 AM: Pierogies at the Bar Bambino milk bar | map
• 11 AM: mixing technology and music at the Chopin Museum | map
• 12:30 PM: morning desserts at Odette | map
• << nap time >>
• 4 PM: early dinner at Ceprownia | map
• finished for the day, since Old Town was closed off…

*To view Day 1’s walk, click on the icon in the upper left corner of the map, and uncheck Day 2 from the menu, and then click the icon again to close the menu.

Onwards to Episode 2 of 36 Hours in Warsaw!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/