It was Nowruz holiday. This is New Year in Persian cultures, including places like Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, to Azerbaijan, and almost everywhere in between. Instead of taking a shared taxi or the train, we hired a private taxi to take us. Shared taxis are common in Uzbekistan, and train travel there is typically simple. However, for the holiday many taxis weren’t operating and the trains were sold out. So, onward, for a full day journey down to Samarkand.

1. History of Samarkand

Samarkand is one of Central Asia’s oldest inhabited cities. This is mostly because of its location on the Silk Road. Archaeological sites in the area revealed that its earliest inhabitants were between the 12th – 7th millenia BC. Although there is no direct evidence when Samarkand was founded, scientists believe it to be between the 8th and 7th centuries BC.

In 329 BC, Alexander the Great conquered Samarkand. At that time, the city went by its Greek name, Maracanda. From then, a string of conquerors and empires ruled Samarkand. First, the Persian Sassanians around 260 AD. Then, the Turks and Arabs. Legends from this time tell a story of two Chinese prisoners from the Battle of Talas (751 AD), who revealed the secret of papermaking, leading to the foundation of the Islamic world’s first paper mill in Samarkand. The secrets of making paper then spread to the rest of the Islamic world, and onward to Europe.

By 1220, the Mongols under Genghis Khan conquered Samarkand. The Mongols ruled until 1307 when Timur (or Tamurlane) made Samarkand the capital of the Timurid Empire. And so began the Timurid Renaissance, during which all of the places we visit in this post, were built.

This is where our journey begins.

2. The trip to Samarkand

A brief note for travelers to Uzbekistan, most Uzbeks do not speak English. Of course, I don’t really expect them to. Oftentimes, the ability to communicate with locals is the key to easily getting around a country. However, let me just say, we could not communicate with our driver.

There were times where we thought we had communicated to pull over for a bathroom break. As soon as we opened the door and stepped outside the car, the driver yelled at us to get back in. The driver subsequently sped off with some kind of vigor. There were times that my friend attempted some form of communication to say she wanted food with no meat. We even showed “no meat” in Uzbek on Google Translate. Curious what we got? Meat filled samosas.

This isn’t to say the driver was unkind or intentional in the way he treated us. There were just serious gaps in communication.

When we were nearing Samarkand, our driver began (almost frantically) yelling “Ulugh Beg! Ulugh Beg!” Do you have any idea what’s happening? Neither do we. But soon, we pulled into a parking lot of the Ulugh Beg Observatory on the outskirts of Samarkand.

3. Ulugh Beg Observatory

3.1 Who is Ulugh Beg?

You can’t visit Samarkand without being introduced to Ulugh Beg. But, if you don’t know who Ulugh Beg is, you wouldn’t be the only one. Ulugh Beg (prounounced oo-LOOG beg) was a sultan in the Timurid Empire, reigning only from 1447 – 1449. During his short reign, he never established authority and was subsequently overthrown and assassinated. However, the world remembers Ulugh Beg foremost an astronomer and mathematician.

The Ulugh Beg Observatory, built in the 1420s, was one of the finest observatories in the Islamic world. From there, Ulugh Beg calculated the length of a year, within 25 seconds of today’s calculations. Copernicus, on the other hand, only calculated the length of a year within 30 seconds. His great contributions to astronomy include the calculation of earth’s axial tilt and the creation of a star catalogue. His star catalogue, which has 1,018 stars, includes only 11 less than Ptolemy.

3.2 Ulugh Beg Observatory Museum

Below are photos from the Observatory Museum itself. Extremely crowded inside, because of its small interior and the holiday tourists. I am claustrophobic when there’s lots of people around, so I couldn’t fully enjoy myself. The plaques included English translations, but my claustrophobia forced me out before I fully read them.

3.3 The Astronomical Sextant

Across from the museum was a giant tunnel, with a beautiful tile facade decorating the entrance. Tons of people crowded around the entrance to this giant tunnel. But what is it?

When we reached the mouth of the tunnel, we stared into the below abyss. With literally no clue what we were looking at. This is the only part of the observatory that still remains. Yet, we were clueless as to its importance.

Little did we know, this abyss was the pièce de résistance of the Ulugh Beg Observatory.

Not an expert on astronomy? Fear not! Neither were we. What you’re looking at is an astronomical sextant, basically 1/6th of a circle. No clue what an astronomical sextant is? Me either! It’s a device primarily used in measuring the position of stars. There are two types of sextants – a mural sextant and a framed sextant. The one at Ulugh Beg is a mural sextant. From the white, cylindrical model building above, the sextant would have been placed in the middle of the cylinder.

According to the radius of the sextant the height would have to be so large that it could cause the building to be too tall and could potentially fall. They were able to solve this problem by building half of the sextant underground. This allowed the size of the sextant to be maintained without the height being dangerously tall.

Wikipedia

4. The Registan – the Heart of Samarkand

4.1 What is the Registan?

The Registan, which means “sandy place” or “desert” in Persian, was the heart of ancient Samarkand. Comprised of 3 madrasas (Islamic schools) in a U-shape, the Registan is a public square which served as the center of the Timurid Empire. People gathered in the Registan, not only to hear royal proclamations, but also to witness public executions.

The three madrasas are:

1. Ulugh Beg Madrasa (on the left), built by you know who, between 1417 – 1420;
2. Tilya-Kori Madrasa (in the center), in Persian meaning “guilded” madrasa, built between 1646 – 1660;
3. Sher-Dor Madrasa (on the right), built between 1619 – 1636 along with Tilya-Kori by Yalangtush Bakhodur, ruler of Samarkand.

4.2 Photo journal of the Registan

The rest of the Registan, I will let the photos speak for themselves. Unfortunately, most of this is because I can’t remember which madrasa I took which photo in. I do have a general idea, but I don’t want to accidentally misinform.

Pro tip: Enter every single nook and cranny. The reward for your curiosity? Hidden courtyards, little shops, and of course, stunning Islamic architecture.

Archway, and close up of the tile work

4.3 The Golden Room

The following photos are what I call “the Golden Room.” I don’t remember which madrasa this room is in. However, do not leave the Registan without finding and visiting it!

5. Gur-e-Amir

5.1 History of Gur-e-Amir

Remember Amir Timur from my last post? Gur-e-Amir (or Gur-i-Amir) is the mausoleum of Timur. Gur-e Amir, Persian for “Tomb of the King,” was built between 1403 – 1404. It stands as an important example of Persian-Mongolian Architecture and as a precursor to other famous Mughal tombs – i.e., the Taj Mahal in India and Babur Gardens in Kabul.

Initially built following the sudden death of Timur’s heir apparent (Mohammad Sultan) in 1403, Amir Timur originally had another burial tomb ready for him. However, he too died suddenly in 1405 (while on military campaign in China) and mountain passes blocked by snow prevented him from reaching his burial site. Therefore, he was laid to rest in Gur-e-Amir, as was his grandson, Ulugh Beg. Since then, it became the family crypt of the Timurid Dynasty.

Following the decline of Samarkand in the 1700s, Gur-e-Amir fell into disrepair.

Tamerlane’s [Amir Timur’s] tomb was opened shortly before the German invasion of the Soviet Union, 19 June 1941. Exhumation of Timur in 1941 was made under the direction of Soviet scientist and anthropologist Mikhail Mikhaylovich Gerasimov, who was able to reconstruct Tamerlane’s facial features from his skull, and it was also confirmed that he was 172 cm in height and would have walked with a pronounced limp.

Wikipedia

It wasn’t until after World War II, that restoration on Gur-e-Amir’s exterior began. In the 1970s, interior restoration work began on the interior.

5.2 Exterior of Gur-e-Amir

5.3 Interior of the Mausoleum

Parting Thoughts on Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Hope you enjoyed this brief tour through Samarkand. Did it convince you to visit Samarkand? There are other sites worth visiting, but time and holiday hours prevented me from doing so. Although everything was stunningly beautiful in Samarkand, I enjoyed our next stop, Bukhara, much more. Stay tuned for more photos and stories of my time in Uzbekistan! As always, stay healthy and stay safe!

Heading back to Tashkent? Be sure to check out the Amir Timur Museum!

Travel Insurance when you visit Samarkand

When you travel off the beaten path, make sure you’re covered with Travel Insurance. You never know when you’ll need it! Get a quote below.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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For a little history, the Orkney Islands have been inhabited since prehistoric times by Norsemen and Vikings and were historically part of Norway. However, in 1468, Norwegian King Christian I pledged Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands as marriage dowry to wed the daughter of Scotland’s James III. King Christian never paid the money, and both Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands have been part of the Scottish crown ever since. The flag of the Orkney Islands (adopted in 2007), is blue, yellow, and red, and pays homage to the island’s Scottish and Norwegian heritage. You’ll see it in a few photos below.

Day trip to Orkney Islands with John o’Groats Ferries

If you’re pressed for time like I always am, a day trip, courtesy of John o’Groats Ferries, is a great option. The ferry company operates tours during the year only from May/June to August/September.  Otherwise, the North Sea is too choppy and I’d imagine extremely miserable to suffer through.  The 45-minute journey was already bumpy. The North Sea was absolutely raging the day that I went.

John o’Groats Ferries used to offer several day tours, which depart from both Inverness or John o’Groats. I took the Maxi Day Tour, leaving John o’Groats at 8:45 am and returning after 7 pm. For an adult, the tour costs 79 GBP (roughly $110 USD), as of 20 April 2021. It’s a full day group tour, with English-speaking guides.

There is ample room at the harbor for parking, and after checking with the office, they told me to just go straight to the harbor. There was already a line of people queuing up.

Expert tip, you should stand aside and watch for a little bit before queuing up, to take note where the waves crash over the walls and completely drench the area underneath it. Especially if it’s a windy and choppy day on the sea.

The sea drenched several people before they even got on the ferry. The air temperature that day (mind you, it was in June) was around 37 degrees Fahrenheit (less than 3 degrees Celsius). I can only imagine that the water temperature was frigid also.

Boarding was a simple process, and I don’t believe they actually checked my ticket at all. Once I boarded, the ferry ride was mostly uneventful, except that those who got seasick, got really seasick. I mentioned it before, but the water and thus the journey is really choppy. Also, since the ferry does not go at particularly fast speeds, the rocking of the boat was more pronounced. Unfortunately, there were several passengers who fell ill.

Let your Day Trip to Orkney Islands begin!

We arrived in Burwick, a village and the harbor of the island of South Ronaldsay, in the Orkney Islands. Three different charter buses were waiting for us, to take us onto the various tours you signed up for. Mine was the Maxi Tour, which saw the most sights and was the longest in length.

After piling into our respective buses, we were off. From there, we drove from South Ronaldsay island, to Burray, to Glims Holm, to Lamb Holm, onto mainland Orkney. All of these listed are separate islands, connected by the Churchill Barriers. The Churchill Barriers are man-made causeways, originally built during WWII to protect Scapa Flow. It’s now become the main road that connects South Ronaldsay island to the Mainland, where the airport and capital of Kirkhall are.

1. Kirkwall, capital of the Orkney Islands

Our first stop on the Orkney Island tours is Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney. We had over an hour to walk around and see the sights. It’s a nice town, with St. Magnus Church being its main landmark. There is a small, but interesting, Orkney Museum, across the way from St. Magnus. Neither the church nor the museum take too long to wander through, but it’s worth the stroll.

A brief glimpse into the Orkney Museum:

Take two rights after you exit the Orkney Museum, and there is a charming little secret garden.

If it were a nice day, it’d be the perfect place to sit with a cup of coffee and a chat. But alas. Kirkwall was cold and windy and my focus there was keeping warm.

One thing I want to point out is Cafe Lolz. Although our tour guide recommended a different cafe in town (The Reel, located next to the church), I popped in and didn’t see the pastries I wanted. Literally, out the door of the Reel, and onto a small street called The Strynd, you’ll arrive at Cafe Lolz. For pastry and dessert lovers, it is a must!

If you keep going down the Broad Street, to the north, there is a lovely, artisanal grocery shop at the end, called the Brig Larder. You can buy things like gin-flavored Orkney cheese or a little crab salad for later.  The Maxi tour does return to Kirkwall toward the end of the day, but you’ll need to rush in order to get back to this shop before it closes at 5:30 pm.  I suggest that you try.

Once you return to John o’Groats, the only place left open for dinner is the Seaview Hotel.  And if you just ate there the night before, like I did, you may not want it two nights in a row.  That crab salad that I impulse purchased came in really handy for dinner later that evening.

2. Stromness, home of great explorers and seamen

After Kirkwall, we moved on to Stromness, which is also located on Mainland Orkney.  Stromness was home to many great explorers, including John Rae, an Orcadian doctor and surgeon, who discovered the final section of the Northwest Passage. Although Rae completed several, successful arctic expeditions, he was ultimately known for finding the fate of Captain Sir John Franklin’s arctic expedition, which was said to have ended in death and cannibalism.

Scandal followed Rae’s claim of cannibalism in the Franklin expedition. Subsequently, Rae was shunned by society. From 2004, Orkney and Shetland MPs began introducing motions into Parliament to recognize his contributions in completing the Northwest Passage. In 2013, a statue was unveiled in Stromness, and finally in 2014, a plaque was installed in Westminster Abbey.

Back at the Maxi Tour, Stromness is the lunch stop. There is ample time to grab a bit of food and to walk around the town.  I thoroughly enjoyed walking around Stromness – every house and garden I came across was just so charming and lovely.  For lunch, the guide recommended  the Ferry Inn, a place for a nice fish soup, i.e. Cullen skink.  And on a windy, rainy day, that and a cuppa tea is really all you need.  There is a section of the restaurant that’s for those visiting on the day tour, and they were really quick with the service, as well.  You’ll definitely run into many people from your own tour or the morning’s ferry.  

I hope you’re enjoying this day trip to te Orkney Islands so far. Because I’ll tell you – I definitely am!

3. Mainland Orkney’s prehistoric sites

After lunch, was Skara Brae – a neolithic settlement, older than Stonehenge!  (and also a UNESCO World Heritage site!) The combined ticket to Skara Brae (and Skaill House) is not included in the Maxi Tour costs, but at 9 GBP in the high season (and 7 GBP in the low season), it was worth it.  Skara Brae is generally considered the best preserved Neolithic settlement. At 5000 years old, it’s older than both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids! Tickets to Skaill House are included from April to October. It’s a warm and welcome relief from the cold and howling winds of Skara Brae!

From Skara Brae, there were two quick stops to the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness. In 1999, UNESCO designated both neolithic monuments as World Heritage sites. For the Ring of Brodgar, you are only allowed around the perimeter of the stones. You can walk among the stones at the Standing Stones. That’s how you can distinguish one from the other in my below photos.

Any Outlander fans out there? No day trip to Orkney Islands is complete without a visit to the standing stones. Unfortunately, these standing stones did not transport me back to the 1700s into the arms of a man named Jamie Fraser.

From there, it was back to to Kirkwall and I hauled over to the Brig Larder to pick up my cheeses and crab salad.  A gentle reminder: buy dinner in Kirkwall before heading back to mainland Scotland!

4. The Italian Chapel on Lambholm

The last stop on your day trip to Orkney Islands is the Italian Chapel on Lambholm, a tiny island connected to the Mainland via the Churchill Barriers. Built in the 1940s by Italian POWs and scrap materials, the Italian Chapel is also a story of unrequited love. The chapel designer’s “heart” is inlaid with the tiles on the floor. Spoiler alert, they do not reunite.

The cost to enter the chapel is 3 GBP for adults (free for those under 12).

From the Italian Chapel, we traverse through the islands of Glimps Holm and Burray to finally reach the port at Burwick on South Ronaldsay, where we started our Orkney Tour.

Parting thoughts on my Day Trip to Orkney Islands

By the time we reached the shores of mainland Britain, and John o’Groats, it was near 7:30 pm. As I mentioned previously, only the Seaview Hotel will be open for dinner, so hopefully you have food back at your lodging or you’ve followed my advice for a little dinner to go from Kirkwall! It was an exhausting day, made doubly more exhausting from an “unseasonably cold” summer season up in the north.

But all in all, I really enjoyed my Orkney Island tour. It was a really great day trip and offers a glimpse into a different kinda Scottish life! If you’re in John o’Groats, you can take a day trip to Orkney Islands just like I did!

Looking for additional resources on a trip to Orkney?

• If you want to spend more time on Orkney with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s comes highly recommended! They offer 5-day Orkney tours from Edinburgh (379£) and 3-day Orkney tours from Inverness (215£)!
• Check out these blogs from my delightful blogging friends:
  • An Orcadian Abroad – tips and tales for Orkney Islands from Clazz, a local Orcadian!
  • AbFab Travels – a motorhome road trip of Orkney with Jane, including a visit to the Highland Park Distillery! It’s not Scotland, without some whisky!

Info for your Orkney Islands Tour

John o’Groats Ferries
From John o’Groats, Daily from 8:45 am
1 May to 30 September 2022
Adults: 79 GBP | $99 USD

From Inverness, (normally) daily from 7:15 am
Currently not offered. Please check with John o’Groats Ferries

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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There are many tours that will take you there or renting a car is certainly an option.  But going from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus for a day trip is completely doable, quite easy to do, and incredibly cost effective! So, if you’re up for an adventure, read on! I’ll give step-by-step instructions on how to go from Zagreb to Plitvice by bus.

1. Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Buying bus tickets from Zagreb to Plitvice is easy enough.  A roundtrip ticket on Arriva, was 112 kuna | < $18 USD  | 15 EUR.  My 5:45 am departure (which arrived shortly after 8 am) meant that I’d have to leave my Airbnb around 5 am, in order to arrive early enough to figure things out…just in case.  My ticket was emailed to me as a PDF and included the platform number (#405), and sure enough, there it was.  Large luggage will cost you 10 kuna to put underneath the bus. My large 50 L backpack was fine as a “carry on.”  And then we were off! From Zagreb to Plitvice by bus!

There are 2-3 ten minute stops along the way, but I never left the bus fearing a) losing my seat, and b) the bus leaving without me.

Along the way, you drive through small villages and if you look closely, you can see sprays of bullet holes covering the village houses.  Rising ethnic tensions between Croatians and Serbs sparked with the death of a Croatian army commander.  The result was the Croatian War for Independence, which began in Plitvice, late March 1991.  Both sides had only 1 death each, during the “Plitvice Incident” or the “Plitvice Bloody Easter”, with over 20 wounded and 400 tourists evacuated.

2. Arriving at Plitvice Lakes

After a little over two sleepy hours on the bus, we finally made it from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes. So excited!

Plitvice Lakes has been a national park since after WWII, and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979.  After the Croatian War for Independence, the parks were swept for mines and all of the remaining mines were removed.  Over 1 million people visit the park annually.

When I went to Plitvice in June, the cost of admission for adults was 150 kuna | < $24 USD | 20 EUR.  In July and August (the country’s high season), that jumps to 250 kuna | $40 USD | 34 EUR if you enter before 16:00.

2.1 Entrances to Plitvice

There are two entrances to Plitvice, smartly named Entrance 1 and Entrance 2.  The bus driver will call out the entrances to the passengers.  Depending on what you want to see in the park, different entrances lead to different attractions. The side of the road where you exit the bus is the same side of the road as the entrance to the NP. 

And remember, that means at the end of the day, when you’re waiting to catch the bus back to Zagreb, the bus stop is on the opposite of the road.

2.2 Hiking Plitvice Lakes – Choose your walking program!

You can go hiking in Plitvice Lakes either for a leisurely walk, or an immense (almost) 20 km hike! The national park has 8 different “lake tour programmes”, with the “K” programme being the longest at 18.3 km, with an estimated completion time of 6-8 hours.  I was able to finish in about 5 hours, with breaks in between.

EXPERT TIP: MAKE SANDWICHES AND BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER.  
There are long stretches with no food or water.

3. The Long Hike – “K programme”

It’s always strange going on a long hike on your own.  Granted, there were other people around, because most of the various lake programmes criss-cross each other and overlap.  But I guess not many people wanted an ambitious “Hiking Plitvice Lakes Day.” There were very few people on the “full K programme.” Most of the trail was on wooden planks along or over the water, and when the K goes off into the green wooded area, there are easy to follow paths.

From P3 (around the middle of the map), I had to take off my shoes and cross over a small section in the water.

And from there towards where it continues well into the green, I met one person and one dog on the K trail.  (The dog did not belong to the person). 

4. Not alone at Plitvice anymore!

At some point, hours later, I met C and K, who were two travelers from Canada and they graciously agreed to let me walk with them.  They were also doing the K programme, but started at Entrance 2. Hiking Plitvice Lakes alone – mmm, ok on the fun level. Hiking Plitvice Lakes with fun people – even better!

5. Thoughts on Hiking Plitvice Lakes

The hike ended with a short 5 minute ferry across the water (gushing towards the finish line!) Ok, maybe not such an exciting finish. But, I will say hiking Plitvice Lakes was an amazing way to see so many of the waterfalls. Plus, being off the beaten path was a great way to avoid the mass of tourists. 

Small warning, though… every time you are about to come across a waterfall, the crowds increase and the pace slows, as everyone tries to pose for a picture.  It can get mildly overwhelming.

I finished the hike around 13:30, and was able to catch an earlier bus back to Zagreb.  In the morning, the bus from Zagreb to Plitvice dropped me off next to the entrance. The bus going back is on the opposite side of the road.

Luckily, I had some time to buy an ice cream before the bus arrived. The bus left around 14:45, and I was able to make it back in Zagreb for a shower and amazing dinner.

So in the end, if you love to walk, enjoy waterfalls and crystal clear waters, PLITVICE IS THE PLACE FOR YOU.  Especially if you’re alread in Zagreb, the bus to Plitvice is easy and a completely manageable day trip!

Add it to the bucket list!

6. Resources on going from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes by Bus

Bus tickets and schedules
Sample Zagreb to Plitvice bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 5:45 am – 8:08 am
• 6:30 am – 8:40 am
• 7:30 am – 9:45 am
• 8:30 am – 11:07 am
• 9:15 am – 11:30 am

Sample Plitvice back to Zagreb bus departure/arrival times (weekend schedules differ):

• 2:45 pm – 5:05 pm
• 3:45 pm – 5:55 pm
• 5:18 pm – 7:50 pm

Information on Hiking Plitvice Lakes National Park and entrance fees:

• Lake walking programme description and maps
• Price list

REMEMBER BRING YOUR OWN FOOD AND WATER

Recap on my Zagreb to Plitvice Day

5:45 am Bus leaves from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
8:10 am: Arrival at Plitvice, Entrance 1
<< walk walk walk walk walk walk walk >>
1:30 pm: Make it back to Entrance 1
2:45 pm: Bus to Zagreb
3 pm: Rain, and feeling thankful to be on a bus and on the way home.  The man I encountered on the K trail, with the dog that was not his, went back to Zagreb on the same bus.
5:15 pm: Arrive in Zagreb
6:30 pm: Finish shower and eat amazing food at Pri Zvoncu
8:30 pm: Sleep.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Oaxaca is easily one of my favorite places in Mexico. But don’t get me wrong. It’s also great to get out of the city and see the surrounding areas. On my trip to Oaxaca in 2018, my friend and I decided to do a day trip to Mitla in order to see the sites and eat some more great food. And it actually turned out to be the best Oaxaca day trip we took!

We arranged to do a full day tour with our Airbnb host. Hiring private drivers to do this trip is relatively easy in Oaxaca. You can find someone in Centro to take you. Alternatively, the host at your hotel or lodging should be able to make arrangements for you.  We paid 250 Pesos per hour, exclusive of entrance fees.

Our tour included the following:

• Arbol del Tule – the oldest and widest tree in the world!
• Mitla – home of the Zapotec civilization,
• Hierve el Agua – a calcified “waterfall” in the mountains,
• and Mercado de Tlacolula – a market, known for its famous barbacoa, BBQ goat/sheep, markets on Sundays!

And let me just tell you – it was one of our best Oaxaca day trips of our time there!! But first, before we start the day trip to Mitla, we need to make sure our bellies are nice and full!

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1. Breakfast

Of course, we had to start off our day with a hearty meal. We left our Airbnb at 8:30 and arrived at Restaurant La Palapa de Raúl at 9 am, right when they opened for breakfast.

It’s on the way, so you might as well time it perfectly like our host did!

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2. Arbol del Tule (“the tree of Tule”)

And then we were off!  The first stop was the Arbol del Tule, which is arguably the oldest and widest tree in the world.  Some call it the “tree of life.” 

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Rumor has it, the tree is at least 1500 years old.  The diameter of Arbol del Tule is 14.05 meters (46.1 feet).  It sits in a closed off courtyard, along with the town’s church. Walk around the tree and you see animals spring to life. A lion and a crocodile are easily visible in the massive tree trunk.  Sadly, the tree is slowly dying. Pollution, water shortages, and the weight of the nearby road on its roots are the main detriments to the tree’s health.

Entry to the courtyard costs 10 Pesos.  Although you can see the tree without entering the courtyard, it’s worth it to pay if you really want to see the true beauty and nuances of the old tree.

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3. Hierve el Agua (“the water boils”)

From there, we headed into the mountains to Hierve el Agua. This is the view, as you ascend the mountains.

As you pass through small villages on your way, you pay two entrance fees –

• one at an earlier village for 10 Pesos per person,
• and one right outside of Hierve el Agua for 25 Pesos per person. 

There is a reason for the two entrance fees. There is only one road to Hierve el Agua, with two villages in succession before the entrance. The first village wanted to reap the benefits of increased tourism, since buses and vans pass through their village and degrading their roads, etc.  Hence, the double entrance fee was born and frankly, for a combined total of 35 Pesos | under $2 USD, it’s definitely worth it.

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Once you get in, there are two parts to this attraction.

1. A petrified, calcified formation (similar to stalactites or stalagmites) that looks like a cliffside waterfall,
2. Pools formed by mountain spring waters. 

There are two pools, one on an upper terrace, which is natural, and one on a lower terrace, which has spring water directed there. 

Bring your swimsuits, because you can swim or soak in these two pools. 

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To my confusion, these are not thermal baths. Although the water is pure and probably great for your skin, it is a gentle, cool bath.  There are changing rooms and relatively clean bathrooms avaialble for a few pesos.  At the baths, you’ll get a view of the petrified waterfall.  It’s a short hike uphill to get to the actual “waterfall”.  I didn’t go, but my friend did. She said there was another pool at the top.

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4. Roadside Mezcaleria

Leaving Hierve el Agua, we stopped by an artisan mezcaleria run by a small family.  This is the Mexico’s mezcal region, with large swaths of agave plants growing along the roads, up into the mountains. 

Mezcal is made with the core, or the “pineapple” or the agave plant.  The leaves are all cut off and the core is thrown into a fire pit to roast.  After roasting, the cores are flattened with its juices squeezed out by a patient donkey and attached to a stone wheel.  The donkey spends the whole day walking around in a circle, pausing, while the caretaker uses his pitchfork and adjusts the agave cores which are now turning into a pulp.  It’s then fermented and twice distilled, and then it’s ready for drinking! 

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After a little tasting, I bought a walnut-infused mezcal, for 70 Pesos | ~$4 USD.

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5.  Mitla – home of the Zapotecs

Then we headed to Mitla, one of the most important archaeological site for Zapotecs, operating as their main religious center and sacred burial site.  Tickets are around 70 Pesos, same as my mezcal purchase. 

There are three complex groupings that are currently open for visitation – the church group, the column group, and the arroyo group (I think). The three sites are within walking distance of each other, with a small market on the grounds as well. The buildings in Mitla are known for the intricate, interconnected stone work. 

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The name Mitla is a Hispanicized word meaning “place of rest” or “place of the dead.” While I don’t want to diminish the importance of Mitla as a religious center, the reason why Mitla is famous is because of the intricate and decorative mosiac fretwork that you see above. That type of design covers tombs, panels, and entire walls! None of the other Mesoamerican sites in Mexico have that kind of geometric designs! Not only that, but it is extremely well-preserved, considering it may have been inhabited as early as 900 BC!

Gorgeous, right? Now you know why the day trip to Mitla was a must!

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6. Tlacolula Market – Sunday barbacoa eats!

After Mitla, we had worked up an appetite. Since we hadn’t eaten anything since our breakfast hours earlier, it was time to hit the Tlacolula Market!

The Tlacolula Market is famous for it’s Sunday barbacoa.  Local families and restaurants will come out to this market on Sundays to buy barbacoa for their families or their restaurants.  Barbacoa is goat or sheep barbecue, served in a taco or in a soup.  DELICIOUS!  and worth timing out for the Sunday market.

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Parting Thoughts on the Day Trip to Mitla

All in all, this was an amazing and diverse day trip.  It is well worth taking the time to make arrangements.  The itinerary took us from 8:30 am to about 5:30 pm, and was a full day trip.  Granted, we took our time eating and walking around the markets and things.  I’d definitely consider it the best Oaxaca day trip you can take!

The cost we paid to our Airbnb host was about 2,250 Pesos (or a little over $100 USD), which was split between the two of us. Entrance fees for Arbor del Tule, Hierve el Agua, and Mitla added to 115 Pesos (approximately $6 USD), per person. Great for the budget conscious traveller!

For an added bonus, consider combining Teotitlan del Valle with this day trip. It is a small village known for its artisans and weavers. It is conveniently located along the way, and is included on the Google Map below. 

If you’re looking to join a tour instead, it will cost about $45 USD per person, on average. Either via tour or on your own, it’s definitely worth it, and like I said – the day trip to Mitla was one of the best Oaxaca day trips we took!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

 

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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