Now, I’m not going to go through every Outlander filming location and I can’t guarantee any time travel through the stones, but I’ve included the main sites that any Outlander-fans must visit. And don’t worry, the main Outlander castles (i.e. Lallybroch, Castle Leoch) and all of the classic Outlander locations are on this list!

And because the (Outlander) Fraser family motto is Je Suis Prest (“I am ready”), I’ve tried to tailor this post to give you the most helpful information to prepare you for your visit!

• I’ve included ticket prices, seasonal openings, and public transportation directions. If it was easy for me to find the transport costs, I’ve included that as well, but they’re not included for each location.
  • For most buses in Scotland, you don’t need to buy a ticket in advance, and can tap a contactless card when boarding to pay for your journey.
• There are also some guided tour options, for some of the locations harder to reach by public transportation, or if you want to just take it easy on the logistical plans for your trip.
• If you’re planning to visit multiple locations, there could be some cost savings if you join National Trust of Scotland or the Historic Environment of Scotland. There’s a section at the end detailing out the admission costs if you’re planning to visit more than one.
• Be sure to check out the map of Outlander filming locations at the bottom of the post. Save the map and pin the post to help you plan!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Lallybroch – Midhope Castle

Take me home to Lallybroch.

🎬 Lallybroch, Broch Tuarach
📍 Midhope Castle, Abercorn, Scotland
 – 45 min drive west of Edinburgh
Seasonal openings
🎟️ Free entry, but you must book a ticket
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  No.

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Yes! This is Lallybroch, both in the 18th century and the 21st century, as Bri and Roger’s new home. Interior scenes not shot here, due to structural issues with the building. Lallybroch (or Midhope Castle) is arguably one of the most iconic Outlander locations in Scotland! Along with Castle Leoch (or Doune Castle), its one of the two main Outlander castles.
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander tours of Scotland? mostly. But read the fine print – often times during winter (low) season, Midhope Castle is substituted with another location (likely Linlithgow Palace).

• 4-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh from 325 GBP per adult: Clava Cairns, Doune Castle, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Culloden, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Glencoe
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow from 56 GBP per adult: Doune Castle, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle
• 1-day Outlander adventure from Edinburgh from 61 GBP per adult: Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross, Doune Castle
• The Outlander 1-Day Experience from Edinburgh from 65 GBP per adult: Midhope Castle, Blackness castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross and Falkland

2. Craig Na Dunh – Callandish Standing Stones

🎬 Craig Na Dunh
📍 Callanish Standing Stones, Isle of Lewis, Scotland
– Ferry from Ullapool or Uig (Skye), or
– Flight to Stornaway from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Inverness
🎟️ Entry free
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  No.

🎥 Did they actually film here?  No, the Callanish Standing Stones are technically not one of the official Outlander filming locations in Scotland.  For various reasons, the stones were made from styrofoam and filmed near Loch Rannoch (in Perth).  But the stones are said to be inspired by the Callanish Standing Stones.
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? Not in an Outlander themed tour, but there are 3 day tours of Lewis and Harris where the Callanish Standing Stones are! The tours depart from Inverness.

3. Castle Leoch – Doune Castle

🎬 Castle Leoch, home of Clan MacKenzie
📍 Doune Castle, Doune, Scotland 
– 1 hour+ drive west of Edinburgh
🎟️ Entry: 10 GBP adult. Depending on how many Historic Environment Scotland locations you visit on your trip, you should consider their Explorer Pass, for 35 GBP. I’ll include a list of their Outlander sites below so you can properly evaluate with your full Scotland itinerary!
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  Yes. 
– ScotRail Edinburgh to Stirling, bus 59 to Callander, exit Bank Street.

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Yes. Many of the Castle Leoch scenes in Season 1 were filmed here!
⭐️ Not to ruin the surprise but Sam Heughan narrates the audio tour, so you’ll definitely get a behind-the-scenes look into the Outlander filming at Doune Castle!
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? mostly.

• 4-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh from 325 GBP per adult: Clava Cairns, Doune Castle, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Culloden, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Glencoe
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow from 56 GBP per adult: Doune Castle, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle
• 1-day Outlander adventure from Edinburgh from 61 GBP per adult: Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross, Doune Castle
• Outlander, Palaces & Jacobites Experience from Edinburgh from 56 GBP per adult: Blackness Castle, Culross, Doune Castle

4. Cranesmuir – Culross

🎬 Cranesmuir
📍 Culross, Fife, Scotland (pronounced COO-riss)
 – 1 drive north west of Edinburgh
🎟️ Entry is free to Culross village; however to visit Culross Palace, entry is 10.50 GBP. Seasonal openings for the Palace. Consider joining the National Trust of Scotland for additional cost savings, including family memberships! Especially if you’re headed to Culloden, or other sites as well. Individual memberships start at 65 GBP.
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  Yes.
– ScotRail Edinburgh to Falkirk, bus 28 to the Palace.

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Yes.  Inside Culross Palace, they filmed Geiliss Duncan’s parlor. Culross Palace gardens also doubled as the Castle Leoch herb gardens.  If you opt to tour Culross Palace, you’ll get more behind-the-scenes info inside! Be sure to roam around the village too. Nearby is the Culross Mercat Cross where that poor boy got his ear nailed to the cross!  
⭐️ Strolling around in Culross transports you back to 1745 Crainsmuir. If there was ever a village that embodies Outlander more, it has to be Culross!
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? mostly – see list below!

• 4-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh: locations included Clava Cairns, Doune Castle, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Culloden, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Glencoe
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow: locations included Doune Castle, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross, Doune Castle
• The Outlander, Palaces & Jacobites Experience – Winter from Edinburgh: locations included Blackness Castle, Culross, Doune Castle
• The Outlander 1 Day Experience from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross and Falkland

5. Culloden Battlegrounds

🎬 Culloden Battlegrounds
📍 Culloden Moor, Inverness, Scotland
 – 3+ hours drive from Edinburgh or Glasgow
🎟️ Entry is free to the battlefield, which is open 24-7; however I would highly recommend including the visitor center in your Culloden plans, entry is 14 GBP. Culross Palace and Pollock House are all part of the National Trust of Scotland, so consider joining the National Trust of Scotland for additional cost savings, including family memberships!
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  Yes.
– ScotRail to Inverness, Bus 27 from Inverness to the Culloden Battlegrounds.

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Technically, the actual Culloden battle scenes in the series was not filmed at Culloden, but part of the 1960s flashbacks when Claire the Clan Fraser memorial stone to talk to the ghost of Jamie. Fans will note the Clan Fraser memorial stone has been blocked off due to heavy foot traffic. Please be respectful, as this is an actual battlefield site with clan memorials and shallow graves of the fallen.

The visitor center at the museum is great and helps to explain the Bonnie Prince Charlie’s story which brought the Jacobites directly to this battleground.

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? Most day tours only stay around Glasgow and Edinburgh, so head to Inverness on your own to visit Culloden Battlefield. Read about my visit to Culloden.

6. Pollok House and Pollok Country Park

🎬 grounds of Castle Leoch / French countryside where Jamie & Back Jack Randall dueled
📍 Pollok Country Park, Glasgow, Scotland
 – 20 minute drive from Glasgow Central
🎟️ Entry is free to the Pollok Country Park; however to visit Pollok House, entry is 8.50 GBP. Consider joining the National Trust of Scotland for additional cost savings, including family memberships!
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  Yes.
– ScotRail from Glasgow to Shawlands (20 minutes, less than 3 GBP one way)

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Yes. 
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? No, but easy to access yourself.
⭐️ The Pollok Country Park is a lovely green space located just outside of Glasgow central. There are highland cows grazing the grounds, and an incredible art museum at the Burrell Collection. The area is a must visit for when you’re in Glasgow!

7. “Fort William” – Blackness Castle

🎬 used as “Fort William” in Outlander, where Jamie was infamously flogged 😥
📍 Blackness, Scotland
 – less than 1 hour drive from Edinburgh
🎟️ Entry: 7.50 GBP per adult
🚌 Accessible by public transportation?  Yes.
– ScotRail train from Edinburgh to Linlithgow (25 minutes, less than 3 GBP one way), Bus F49 from Linlithgow to Blackness Square

🎥 Did they actually film here?  Yes. The scenes were not filmed in the town of Fort William.
⭐️ One of my favorite Outlander locations in Scotland to visit! Blackness Castle is a mighty castle at the edge of the sea. A uniquely shaped castle closely resembling a ship (“the ship that never sailed”), Blackness Castle was built onto the rocky outcroppings on the shore. This rockiness is seen even in the courtyard of the castle, where a young Jamie Fraser was flogged. You can walk along the wall, and imagine Jamie and Claire diving into the sea as they escape Fort William.

🦞 If you’re a fan of seafood, and you’re visiting Blackness Castle, pop by a lobster hidden gem on my Best Seafood of Scotland list.
🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Included in Outlander group tours? mostly.

• 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow: locations included Doune Castle, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross, Doune Castle
• Queensferry sightseeing boat cruise, with cream tea: see Blackness Castle from the sea
• The Outlander, Palaces & Jacobites Experience – Winter from Edinburgh: locations included Blackness Castle, Culross, Doune Castle
• The Outlander 1 Day Experience from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross and Falkland

– Other Outlander locations in Scotland to visit:

• Falkland Palace and Falkland village – One of the rooms in the palace served as the apothecary where Claire buys medical supplies. Falkland village doubles as Inverness during Frank and Claire’s honeymoon. The exterior of the Fayre Earth Gift Shop in Falkland is used as a furniture shop window, as Frank and Claire window-shop during their honeymoon.
  • 🎟️ entry to Falkland Palace: 13 GBP per adult
  • Seasonal openings
  • Public transportation: challenging but doable. Bus X59 Edinburgh Princes Street to Gateside Cottage, Bus 64A from Gateside Cottage to Palace (1h 46 min)
  • included in 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow and 4-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh

Above: a window at Culross Palace

• Preston Mill – at Lallybroch where Jamie hides underwater beneath the mill, while Claire and Jenny hide him from the redcoats
  • 🎟️ entry: 7.50 GBP per adult
  • Seasonal openings
  • 🚌 from Edinburgh Bus X7 to Phantassie Farm, then 12 min walk (1h 6 min)
• Hopetoun House – Duke of Sandringham’s home
  • 🎟️ entry: 13.50 GBP per adult
  • Make it easy and book tickets to Hopetoun House and Midhope Castle together
  • Seasonal openings
  • Public transportation not advised.
• Drummond Castle Gardens – Gardens of Versailles
  • 🎟️ entry: 10 GBP per adult
  • Seasonal openings
  • Public transportation: challenging but doable. Scotrail from Edinburgh to Stirling, Bus 15A to Templemill Road End, then 12 min walk (2h 10 min).
• Linlithgow Palace – Wentworth Prison, where Jamie suffers torture from Black Jack Randall 😥.
  • Also, the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots
  • 🎟️ entry: 8 GBP per adult
  • 🚂: Scotrail from Edinburgh Waverly to Linlithgow (9.60 GBP return fare, 26 min)

• Craigmillar Castle – Ardsmuir Prison
  • 🎟️ entry: 7.50 GBP per adult
  • 🚌 Buses 33, 30, 14, 8, 49 from Edinburgh Princes Street / Leith Street to Craigmillar Castle Road (25 min), then 15 min walk
• Aberdour Castle and Garden – Benedictine monastery, Abbey Ste Anne de Beaupre where Jamie recovers from his injuries by Black Jack Randall.
  • 🎟️ entry: 7.50 GBP per adult
  • 🚂: Scotrail from Edinburgh Waverly to Aberdour (8.40 GBP return fare, 32 min)
• Newhailes House – Governor Tryon’s House
  • 🎟️ entry: 14 GBP per adult
  • 🚌 Buses 44, 113, 124 from Edinburgh St. Andrews House to Brunstane Mill Road (23 min), then 15 min walk
• Highland Folk Museum – This open air museum doubles as a MacKenzie village, visited in Season 1 with the Clan MacKenzie rent-collecting party. In this village, Claire found a group of women and joined them in singing and waulking wool. Step back in time and experience Highland life from the 1700-1900s. (I really really really want to visit this!)
  • 🎟️ entry is free but donations are welcome
  • Seasonal openings
  • 🚂: Scotrail from Edinburgh Waverly to Newtonmore (2h 35 min, 54 GBP any time return fare), then a 1.3 mile walk.
  • or connect through Inverness and take the train from Inverness to Newtonmore (2h hour, 8.70 GBP one way), then a 1.3 mile walk.
• Duncarron Medieval Village – This open air museum doubles in Outlander as Fort Ticonderoga (in New York) in Season 7’s Battle of Ticonderoga. Fun fact, it was also used in the filming of Robin Hood (2010) and Outlaw King (2018). Various period-related film props and sets that were built for filming these movies (+ Outlander) were donated to Duncarron Medieval Village. From Outlander, there is now a Bastion, some outbuildings, and a tower in the village.
  • 🎟️ entry: 18 GBP per adult
  • Public transportation not advised. You can take a combination of trains/buses from Edinburgh or Glasgow to Stoneywood, Denny. However, there is still 6 miles from there to Duncarron Medieval Village.
• There are also several filming locations around Glasgow that you shouldn’t miss: Glasgow Cathedral, Glasgow University, among others! My friend, Hailey (also known as the Sassenach Historian) offers private Outlander tours including a walking tour of Glasgow!

Planning your Outlander trip to Scotland

Now that you have an idea of the various Outlander filming locations in Scotland, it’s time to figure out whether you want a tour or travel there on your own, either by public transportation or car. Everyone is different, and everyone’s schedules are different, so choose what works best for you!

Options for your Outlander Tour of Scotland

Here are some Outlander Tour options that are highly rated. Do note that some tours and locations may have a separate entry admission fee, so read the fine print!

• 4-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh: locations included Clava Cairns, Doune Castle, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Culloden, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Glencoe
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Glasgow: locations included Doune Castle, Culross, Falkland, Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle
• 1-day Outlander Tour from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross, Doune Castle
• Queensferry sightseeing boat cruise, with cream tea (departs from Hawes pier, Queensferry): see Blackness Castle from the sea
• The Outlander, Palaces & Jacobites Experience – Winter from Edinburgh: locations included Blackness Castle, Culross, Doune Castle
• The Outlander 1 Day Experience from Edinburgh: locations included Midhope Castle, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, Culross and Falkland
• Edinburgh: Outlander Series and Jacobites Walking Tour: including Bakehouse Close, where Jamie’s print shop is located

Saving on tickets to Outlander locations in Scotland

Map of Outlander Filming Locations in Scotland

Other helpful links and tips:

• Coming from London? Take the sleeper train from London to Scotland and arrive well-rested and refreshed to travel through the stones to find your Jamie! Read my review of the comfortable sleeper train.
• Arriving by plane? Skip the fuss and take a tram directly from Edinburgh Airport to the city center (St. Andrew Square, a block away from Princes Street) for only 6 GBP one-way!
• Looking for a temporary luggage storage option while in Edinburgh? Leave your bag for up 5 GBP per bag, per day! Several convenient locations available.
• The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
• The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) for your Scottish adventure is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber (and made from a Scottish company, so they know how to waterproof your feet), these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
  • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Hope that helped give you an idea of all the exciting Outlander filming locations you can visit in Scotland! This post was thoughtfully prepared by an Outlander fan, in the hopes of giving you all the information you need so you can stand proud with the (Outlander) Fraser motto, Je Suis Prest (“I am ready”). If you found this information helpful in your trip plans, please consider supporting this website with a coffee. Until the next Outlander episode drops, I wish you all happy planning and safe travels through the stones!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This one-of-a-kind exclusive whisky experience combines the best of both worlds – the delightful taste of Scotch whisky and a comfortable, upscale hotel with all the amenities you could wish for. While I don’t have a whisky bucket list (or any bucket list) per se, a stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery is a fun experience and an absolute must for any whisky fan! Don’t get me wrong – I have a home in a whisky village on a whisky island and I’ve stayed at hotels with famous whisky bars before. But staying on site at a distillery (with a delicious restaurant) was a truly unique and wonderful experience!

1. Whisky Distilleries with Accommodations in Scotland

Before I go about telling you all about my stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel, I’ve done a bit of research on the matter and there are a handful of Scottish distilleries with accommodations that can be rented out. In Scotland, you’ll find:

• Bowmore Distillery has Bowmore Cottages and the Harbour Inn, in the same village, adjacent to the distillery. Some units like the Maltman’s Cottage, were formerly staff cottages;
• Glenmorangie Distillery has Glenmorangie House – a luxury boutique hotel with rooms and cottages, located about 10 miles away from the distillery.
• Ardbeg Distillery has the Seaview Cottage, which is located on distillery grounds in a separate area from production. Currently the website says its not available for booking, so not sure if Ardbeg has any sneaky plans!
• Dornoch Distillery was started on the grounds of the Dornoch Castle Hotel, so it kind of deserves a place on this list… (it’s funny, they market this as one of the only hotels in the UK with a distillery, as opposed to the way I am marketing this post as one of the only distilleries with a hotel! I think it’s an interesting distinction)
• Springbank Distillery in Campbeltown has The Still Guesthouse as part of their 3-day Eat, Sleep, Dram, Repeat retreats. The guesthouse is not onsite, but 3 minutes walk away from Springbank Distillery. I’ve not been, but a whisky writer I follow has, so check out his review!

There are a few lists online that would also include whisky hotels in Scotland like:

• the Jura Distillery / the Jura Hotel, which is next door. But, the hotel isn’t owned by the same company as the distillery, so just being next door doesn’t count!
• the Craigellachie Hotel in Aberlour (Speyside) or the Fife Arms in Braemar – both are considered as a whisky tasting hotel with vast and memorable whisky bars. So does that make them a whisky hotel in Scotland? Maybe… but also, maybe not.

All of the above would be great for any whisky tasting weekend breaks. However, all of my research has led me to this conclusion:

Of all the Scottish distilleries with accommodations, the Isle of Raasay Distillery is the only whisky distillery with a hotel on site in Scotland. You can walk from your room over to the production side for your tour without needing to brave temperamental Scottish weather. The restaurant and bar (with Raasay whisky of course!) are just located downstairs from your room.

This was confirmed by the Isle of Raasay Distillery, as well!

2. Introducing the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

The Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is housed in Borodale House, a former Victorian villa on Raasay. The hotel includes six en-suite rooms, a restaurant, and a bar and lounge to enjoy. Of course, Borodale House is also home to the Isle of Raasay Distillery (opened in 2017) and houses its 1 spirit still and 1 wash still. Currently, this yields 188,000 liters per annum of peated and unpeated spirit annually, so not a very big operation! In their signature single malt release, Isle of Raasay whisky is lightly peated with rich dark fruit flavors and bottled on site at 46.4% ABV.

The Borodale House Restaurant, available to overnight guests and visitors alike, sources its produce as locally as it can, with their culinary highlights including Raasay venison and fresh seafood from its shores. The dining room has uninterrupted views of the Cuillin Mountains over on Skye, so look forward to stunning views over breakfast and dinner!

Separating the hotel section and production is the bar and tasting area, with a lush living wall leading you into production, marking the boundaries. The bar serves Isle of Raasay whiskies and gin, as well as beer from Cuillin Brewery. When I visited, the only food option at the bar was the charcuterie platter, but it seems they’ve expanded to a full (and quite delicious looking) bar menu. From a quick inspection of the menu online, I spotted oysters, fried squid, langoustines and venison burgers. All local to Raasay or Skye, no doubt.

For those staying at the hotel, there is also a resident’s lounge for you to enjoy a quiet dram. It’s perfect for an after dinner drink before retiring to your room upstairs.

Let’s not forget about the whisky at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Whisky is the main reason you’re here, is it not? Guests to the hotel get a complimentary distillery tour for their stay. You’ll get one dram (single cask release) or a gin for the normal tour. For those on the Winter Whisky Retreat, you get upgraded to Whisky, Gin, and Chocolate Tour and Tasting. You’ll get the Raasay Single Malt, a single cask release, and the gin to pair with chocolates from the Glenshiel Chocolate Company.

For those super whisky nerds, there is a variety of other tours and tastings you can take. The first two of these include the “normal production tour” plus an extra!

• Distillery and Bottling Warehouse Tour – You’ll truly get to witness the whole production cycle through to bottling, and sample 2 Raasay drams and the gin.

• Dunnage Cask Warehouse Tour – Pop behind the scenes into the dunnage warehouse, with an exclusive tasting of their Na Sia range, straight from the cask! After 6 cask strength whiskies, you’ll be glad you’re staying at the hotel!

• Cask Strength Tasting – a tasting featuring the Na Sia range, 6 whiskies both peated and unpeated, at cask strength no less!

Explore Isle of Raasay whiskies

3. My Stay at a Whisky Distillery – the Room

I visited the Isle of Raasay Distillery and stayed as part of their Winter Whisky Retreat promotion. Now for 280 GBP per room, the package included the following for two persons:

• accommodation in one of their luxury rooms
• welcome drink in the lounge (Isle of Raasay G&T or dram)
• whisky production tour with whisky and gin tasting, paired with chocolate
• pre-dinner cocktail and canape
• 3-course tasting menu, with mountain views of Skye
• Scottish breakfast in the morning.

The 2023/2024 Winter Whisky Retreat Promotion is valid from November 1, 2023 to March 31, 2024

Even for one person, it was a great deal. And so when my travel plans were derailed and I suddenly found myself with an extra day in the north, I jumped on it and made a slight detour to Raasay!

For me, it was a Small Double Room, with a partial Cuillin view. The room was draped in tweed, wool, and extremely cozy furnishings. Although it was cold and there was snow on the mountains in the distance, the room was so comfortable and warm!

In terms of amenities, there was a TV on the wall, a tea and coffee tray with Raasay Gin and Raspberry shortbread biscuits from Isle of Skye Baking Co expertly stationed at the window reading nook, and of course, a bottle of Isle of Raasay single malt whisky, just in case! The coffee comes from Caora Dhubh, a local Skye coffee roaster, and is a welcome addition to the cozy room.

The bathroom was petite, but included a lush terry cloth robe, the perfect rain shower and handmade soap from Isle of Skye Soap Co.

Unlike other hotels, do note that the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is not staffed after hours. There is of course emergency phone numbers should you require assistance in the evening hours.

4. Food and Drink at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

In my humble opinion, food can make or break any hotel stay… which is why I’m so pleased that the food at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is absolutely delicious, and I’m sure there is more excitement to come from the kitchen there!

The Borodale House Restaurant offers lunch and dinner to the public and guests alike, and for those staying at the hotel, it’s also where you’ll have breakfast. For me, it was a full Scottish with locally sourced ingredients, that included haggis, black pudding, bacon, egg, mushrooms, and a tattie scone.

Dinner was a slightly more lavish affair, as you do, with a 3-course tasting menu included in the Winter Retreat package.

For me, it was:

• Torched Burrata with beetroot, walnut and shallots – (a Lannie rule in life, always get the burrata!)
• Parmesan Gnocchi with mushroom, thyme, cherry tomatoes, and hazelnut
• Whipped Chocolate Delice with Raasay single malt (of course!), toasted nuts, and vanilla.

There are also drams for you to order to wrap up the meal, choosing from:

• Isle of Raasay Single Malt
• Distillery Exclusive Sherry Release
• Na Sia Single Cask Series
• Isle of Raasay Inaugural Release

A really wonderful 3-course meal, a Distillery Exclusive dram in the resident’s lounge, and that’s me sorted for the evening!

5. Things to do on Raasay

Despite being a small island, there are a number of things to do during your stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel. Personally, Raasay is one of those islands that I bask in its quiet moments and lush nature. My springtime walks around Raasay were sunny and brisk, filled with fairytale-like melodic birdsong. If I weren’t in my big puffy coat, with my beanie and wool scarf, I’d practically be Aurora singing and dancing with animals in the forest. (Sleeping Beauty reference anyone?)

– Explore Inverarish (Gaelic: Inbhir Àrais)

It didn’t take me long to walk from the distillery to Inverarish, the main settlement on Raasay. The walk was quiet, except for the birds chirping loudly. It was a brisk and bright spring day, with views of the Cuillin Mountains on Skye for most of the walk. I later learned that homes in the village don’t have full addresses, but rather are just referred to by number, i.e. “My grandparents live in 26,” etc. Not having full addresses is something an American can’t comprehend, but it seems to work on the wee isle of Raasay.

Be sure to stop by the Community Store for snacks and souvenirs, as well as the Raasay Gallery for local crafts.

– Be charmed at the Raasay Walled Garden

One of the more spectacular things about Raasay is its small, quiet woodland feel. A morning stroll out over to Raasay House walled garden is one place to enjoy the greenery and birdsong. Take advantage of the picnic tables located in the garden for a quiet moment. In the summer months, there is a fresh produce and flower honesty stall for all your local grows!

– Take a hike

If the weather is nice, hike up to Dun Caan, Raasay’s highest point (443 meters) and Raasay’s only extinct volcano. Upgrade to AllTrails+ before you head out, for up to date weather and ground conditions. This would have been useful during my hike up there last summer, when the weather was better. The wind raged so aggressively that we gave up part way through!

– Find the Mermaids and take a selfie

There are a pair of mermaids at the Battery overlooking the pier where the ferry arrives, which could be overlooked if you’re not paying attention. It’s a nice welcome which wasn’t really intended as such. According to local stories, the mermaids were built in the 1840s, intended to be placed along the entryway to Raasay House. Either they were to heavy to be moved along the road, or too ugly (as one story goes), they were left at the Battery at Clachan.

You’ll have to excuse the awkward angle of the selfie!

– Calum’s Road

Although I haven’t made it to the north of Raasay, I would highly recommend a little road trip up to the northern side of the island for a drive on Calum’s Road. Following the Highland Clearances in the 1800s, many of the residents of Raasay lived in the north of the island, which made access to the ferry port connection to Skye in the south very challenging.

Locals had been petitioning the council to build a road connecting Arnish in the north to the rest of Raasay to no avail. From the days of petitioning to when Calum finally took matters into his own hands, the population of the northern part of Raasay had declined from 100 to 2, leaving only Calum and his wife.

Finally, in the 1960s, one spring morning, Calum MacLeod packed a pick, an axe, a shovel, and his lunch box into his wheelbarrow, and began to slowly carve out his own road. He continued to do so for the next 20 years and eventually (and miraculously), built out Calum’s Road. The original motivation for the road was to make the journey easier for Calum’s daughter, who was away to school on Skye. But really, it served as a stunning example of the ingenuity and determination of locals in small communities, when the world seemed to have moved on or forgotten.

This is probably the top of my next visit to Raasay, to pay tribute to such an incredible spirit and determination!

If you’re looking for more ideas, there’s also:

• a wildlife cruise of the Sound of Raasay, where you may see puffins, dolphins, whales, sea eagles, orcas and more!
• The Raasay House – the other hotel on Raasay! Not only are there rooms to stay in, but also a delightful restaurant for lunch and dinner. They also have a variety of outdoor activities that you can arrange there, including archery, loch kayaking and sailing!
• or, just coorie up in your room or in the residents lounge with a dram and a book and call it a day!

6. Parting Thoughts on my stay at the Isle of Raasay Whisky Hotel

It may sound silly as a unique selling point – going to a whisky distillery for a tour and tasting, and then wandering up to your lovely, comfortable room for a rest and maybe a nap, but it is truly wonderful. Hands up if you’ve ever done a whisky tour or tasting and immediately wanted a nap afterwards! The winter whisky retreat fulfills that requirement!

Not only that, but the bar downstairs has an incredible view of the mountains for your cocktails and sundowner. Enjoy the view with your free pre-dinner drinks, before moseying over to the restaurant for a delicious 3-course tasting menu made with local produce. Chef’s kiss perfect!

For whisky fans, this is a lovely treat with wonderful hospitality and delicious food. Plus, Raasay is more of a niche whisky, not super well known, so it’s great to explore new whiskies and expressions.

Overall, it was a really fun stay that had everything that I look for in a mini-break in Scotland. Especially during the dark winter months, going on this winter whisky retreat was such a treat! Delicious food, incredible whisky, a charming small island to explore, and a warm and cozy atmosphere. In all honesty, what more could you ask for? It’s the perfect thing to break you out of the winter blues!

For more information on booking a winter whisky retreat to stay at the Raasay whisky distillery, visit the Raasay Whisky hotel website.

Until your next whisky adventure, I bid you adieu!

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7. How to get to the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Arriving to Raasay requires a short 25 minute ferry from Sconser (Isle of Skye) on CalMac Ferries. Don’t worry, you don’t need to book anything in advance, as this service is a Turn up and Go. An adult return ticket is 4.20 GBP, and to add your car, it’s an additional 14 GBP.

The distillery is located 0.4 miles from the ferry port, an easy 8 minute walk if you’re coming over on foot.

For those without a car, Raasay can be reached by train, then bus, then ferry. Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, would be your best starting point. The easiest way would be:

• Arrive to Inverness via Scotrail;
  • Glasgow to Inverness by train takes about 3+ hours, and costs 13.50 GBP one way, when bought in advance;
  • Edinburgh to Inverness by train also takes about 3 hours, and costs 19.80 GBP one way, when bought in advance.
  • Or, if you’re coming from London, consider taking the overnight sleeper train to arrive in Inverness around 8:45 am! (This does not have great connections to the bus, which leaves at 8:30 am, but at least I’m giving you options!)
• Connect to Sconser via Citylink bus 917 from Inverness. Check the times, as there are a few nonstop services with 0 changes, so be sure to book those. If you book a return ticket in advance, it costs 39.80 GBP, the same cost as a single ticket! (💡Expert tip)
• After you arrive to Sconser, it’s just a quick 25 minute ferry ride and a 10 minute walk to the distillery!

And there you have it, getting to Raasay on public transportation! Easy peasy!

– Hotel recommendations in Inverness

If you need a luxury hotel in Inverness to hang your hat for the evening before setting off toward Raasay, I can definitely recommend:

• Ness Walk – a 5-star luxury hotel on the banks of the River Ness

• or the Kingsmills Hotel – a 4-star luxury spa hotel, overlooking the Inverness Golf Club.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Here is a little slow travel post on spending a few days on the Isle of Iona.

1. Brief Introduction to the Isle of Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. Iona is a small island, only about 1 mile wide by 3 miles long, and is home to about 130 permanent residents. For visitors, vehicles aren’t allowed onto the island, so there’s an unspoken charm that comes with that. When you arrive to Iona via the short 10 minute ferry from Mull, you’ll be directly in “the village”, Baile Mòr, which is the main settlement. But since it’s the only settlement on Iona, everyone just calls it the village.

Iona has been inhabited since 6000 BC and increased in popularity after St. Columba came to Iona in 563 AD following his exile from Ireland. Saint Columba is known for bringing Christianity to Scotland and subsequently, Iona is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity. Following Columba’s arrival to Iona, he founded the Iona Abbey which still stands as a place of worship to this day. During his lifetime, Columba was known to perform various miracles, such as healing people or expelling evil spirits. I think it’s for this reason people come to Iona, hoping for a miracle, hoping to be healed.

If legends are to be believed, Columba had seen the Loch Ness Monster back in 565, and banished the great “water beast” to the depths of the River Ness.

Many people come to Iona to visit Iona Abbey and bask in the magic and miracles that once imbued St. Columba and his followers. To this day, people still make the pilgrimage to Iona out of hope or desperation seeking some sort of comfort. It was that search for hope and comfort that brought me to Iona the first time.

2. Day trip to Iona vs. a few days on Iona

Since my first visit to Iona, I’ve returned many times and have always stayed a few days each time. Having chatted with many visitors there, so many people feel the pull of Iona and keep returning over the years or even decades. I guess I’m now one of those people.

Unfortunately, due to travel itineraries and schedules, most people only do a day trip over to Iona. If you have time or enjoy slow travel, I would highly recommend considering Iona as a stop versus a day trip, just because most of the magic happens without the day tripping crowds.

During the day, the island heaves with day trippers, crowding into the abbey or filling the puffin tour boats (the puffins nest on nearby Staffa between April to August). Around 4 pm, the queue for the ferry back to Mull extends past the pier and basically into the village. That’s usually when I arrive, when all of the day trippers leave. The late afternoon ferry to Iona on the other hand, in time for hotel check in, barely has a handful of people, if that.

The experience you’d have with a day trip to Iona would be significantly different than if you stayed a few days. With that said, because Iona is small and you’ll go everywhere on foot, you can still have a lovely few hours on Iona. It’s just not the same.

Staying for a few days of slow travel isn’t always feasible, consider a small group tour to Iona, including the Isle of Mull:

• 3-day Mull and Iona trip from Glasgow
• 4-day Mull, Iona and West Highlands from Edinburgh

Or, perhaps looking for a change in your job is a way to fully embrace slow travel. With Jooble, explore remote opportunities for the flexibility to slow your travel down. https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-work-from-home

3. 5 Things to do on Iona

Given that Iona is a small island, there are only a handful of things to do. Most center around the Abbey and St. Columba’s connection with the island. Additionally, since only resident vehicles are allowed on the island, get your walking shoes out – you’ll explore everywhere by foot!

– Stroll through the Iona Nunnery

Between the village and on the way to the Abbey, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, which was founded sometime in the early 1200s. The nunnery remained as one of two Augustinian monasteries for women in Scotland and is still the most complete medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. Following the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and left to ruin.

The Iona Nunnery is a good place for a quiet stroll, possibly accompanied with a freshly fried rhubarb donut from Ailidh Loves Pizza, which is around the corner.

– Take a tour and attend Church Service at the Iona Abbey

A visit to Iona is nothing without taking a tour of the Iona Abbey, a Benedictine abbey, and hearing the story of how the abbey came to be. Entry tickets (10 GBP for adults) to the abbey include an audio guide (or an actual guide at certain times), entry to the museum, and St. Oran’s chapel and the nearby graveyard – the burial place of old Scottish kings. Its a wonderful tour and really interesting to hear about the founding of the abbey to the viking raids, to the changes that have been made to the structure since its inception.

You can attend Sunday service at Iona Abbey (or evening service) even as non-members of the church. There have been a few church services that I’ve attended around the world that have moved me, and the Sunday Service at Iona Abbey was one of them. If you’re having a moment in life, and just need a bit of extra positivity, the church service at Iona Abbey may be exactly what you need. With a friendly hello and “peace be upon you” from your neighbor, it serves only to warm your heart and spirit.

Attending the Cook Islands Christian Church at the other end of the world and Saint Augustine Catholic Church in New Orleans have been special and moving church services that I’ve attended in my life.

Book of Kells connection to Iona

It’s been said that the Book of Kells was written in Iona and transported back to Ireland for safekeeping following a Viking raid on Iona in 806. The Book of Kells (sometimes known as the Book of Columba), a 9th century illustrated manuscript of the Book of Gospels, in Latin, was kept at the Kells Monastery (Ireland) from then until the 1650s when it was sent to Dublin. Since 1661, it’s been housed at Dublin’s Trinity College. Whether the Book of Kells was written and illustrated in Iona isn’t completely known, but some connection between Iona and the Book of Kells is known.

For both religious and non-religious, the visiting the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College in Dublin is an absolute must when in Ireland – the details are exquisite.

Photos courtesy of Trinity College Dublin

– Search for Eternal Youth at the highest point on Iona

Grab your hiking boots, and head up to the highest point on Iona, Dùn Ì (prounounced dun-ee). It’s only a 101 meter (331 feet) scramble up, but from there, you can see the entire island, and maybe even the lighthouse on Tiree on a clear day. You know you’ve made it to the top when you reach the cairn. Be sure to find the Well of Eternal Youth and bathe your face in it. Standing at the cairn and facing north, head down the slope, towards a cleft in the rocks. Eternal youth awaits you!

Note: the entrance to Dun-I is near the pods. If you’re walking (on the one road), you’ll see a sign that says “NOT” the entrance to Dun-I. (love that). The entrance is basically the next gate you encounter. It’s a counterintuitive note, but will make total sense when you are there.

– Find Columba’s tears in Columba’s Bay

Columba’s tears, also known as mermaid tears, are found on the rocky shores from the hike to the south of the island (trail map). Iona green serpentine marble, a light green, translucent little pebble, can be found on the south side of Iona at St. Columba’s Bay or the old Marble Quarry. In the photo below, I think it’s the lightest color pebble. That day, I was just picking up all small green pebbles in order to figure out which one was a tear later.

L: St. Columba’s Bay on Iona
R: A handful of pebbles, the lightest one should be Columba’s tear

Superstitious travelers carry Columba’s tears with them in their pocket, as its said to prevent against drowning.

If you’re lucky enough to find two Columba’s tears, one represents something negative to leave behind (and is thrown into the sea), and the other is for you to take home and remember your new beginning or intended commitment.

– Bask in the sunshine, hide in the rain

• Explore the beaches – Bay at the Back of the Ocean on the west coast and White Beach on the northern tip of Iona are both spectacular and secluded with lush, fine sandy beaches. St. Columba’s Bay in the south is a pebble beach with Columba’s tears hidden among the stones. But give the whole island a wander, there are several beaches that you just stumble upon!
• Iona Golf Course – pick up your scorecard for 1 GBP at the local post office, and then walk 30 minutes to an incredibly remote golf course, maintained by grazing cattle and sheep, with the wild sea as a backdrop. 18 holes with an audience of sheep watching!
• OR, if it’s puffin season (April to August) go on a puffin tour to nearby Staffa! Staffa Tours picks you up directly from the Iona pier and heads over to Fingal’s Cave and the puffin colonies on uninhabited Staffa.

4. Food on Iona

Being a small island, there’s only a handful of places to eat on Iona. It might surprise you that the food is actually phenomenal! I’ll break it down for you:

– Argyll Hotel

Located just off the pier, the Argyll Hotel is a favorite of mine, not only to stay on Iona, but to eat as well! Gorgeously fresh, locally sourced and grown food, with a cozy, warm vibe. The shortcut from the hotel toward the abbey includes a wander by the Argyll Hotel’s garden, which supplies the hotel with locally grown produce. Meals at the Argyll Hotel can be taken in the conservatory, with a beautiful view overlooking Mull and the Sound of Iona.

What is this delicious delight to my left? Pan seared Iona hogget loin, roast garden potatoes, samphire, hogget & wine ragout, rhubarb jus & crispy capers. I mean… absolutely exquisite!

So many incredible chefs began at the Argyll Hotel in Iona – Pam Brunton from Inver, for one, and Carla Lamont from Ninth Wave, another. Both incredible chefs who honor sustainability and locally grown produce in their creativity. And both incredible destination restaurants worth visiting!

– St. Columba’s Hotel

St. Columba’s Hotel is the other hotel and restaurant on Iona that packs an incredible punch! I haven’t stayed here, but I have had a few delicious meals here. When the sun is shining, the picnic tables in the garden are perfect for a relaxing beer! You won’t be able to miss the St. Columba Hotel Gardens on your way to the abbey, which provides locally grown produce to the hotel and restaurant.

Next door is St. Columba’s Larder, a cute little shop with snacks, gifts, teas, coffees and cakes.

– The Rookery Cafe

Next to the Iona Heritage Center (worth a wee wander into!), the Rookery Cafe is a wonderful addition the Iona food scene. It’s a perfect lunch spot for sandwiches and toasties, and delectable dessert treats to enjoy outside in the garden, on its many picnic tables.

The Rookery Cafe is opened during the day, Monday – Saturday. Being an island business, please check their social media for up to date hours and specials.

– Other food options

• Ailidh Loves Pizza: This is a brand new pizza and donut shop that I follow on social media and drool after. Last time I visited, they were only doing donuts (and of course, I got one) but their pizzas and flatbreads (with seafood!) look incredible for next time!
• The Martyr’s Bay – Local cafeteria and diner – your place to get a chippy on Iona.
• Iona Seafood – locally caught and landed crabs, lobsters, and other seafood. if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to order some local seafood to enjoy! pick up, where else? at the pier!
• Iona Craft Shop – this is a super cute craft and gift shop, which also sells coffees and cappuccinos! Pop by and browse the local wares while waiting for your latte.

Other food options across the way in Fionnpfort:

Although the next two are not located on Iona, but rather in Fionnpfort (where you got the ferry to Iona), they get a special mention regardless.

• The Creel Seafood Shack – Regularly voted Best Seafood in Scotland, this little shack is perfect for your black pudding and scallop roll before you board the ferry. Or, your seafood platter on a sunny day. (required to be ordered 24 hours in advance). Don’t forget to add a lush order of chips (fries)!
  • If seafood is your jam, the Creel Seafood Shack makes an appearance on my Best Seafood in Scotland list.

• The Ninth Wave – an exquisite lunch treat from Head Chef Carla Lamont and her husband Johnny, that they deem as “hedonism on a plate.” The Ninth Wave uses seafood caught by Johnny and herbs and produce they grow in their garden. It’s a small dining area, but everyone is served each of the courses at the same time. Carla and Johnny explain the course to the diners in kind of an open forum. It’s casual and relaxed for such an incredible dining experience – one that I hope to revisit again in my coming travels!

5. Parting Thoughts on a slow travel trip to Iona

Iona is truly a special place, and once you’ve been entangled in its magic, you’ll keep coming back. Despite being an extremely small island, the island and its charms tend to have a mesmerizing effect. I’m not sure if you’d get that same feeling during a day trip with other tourists and travelers, but if that’s your entry point into Iona, then far be it for me to deny you that initial feeling!

Just a side note: many people visit Iona as it appears to sit on a ley line. Ley lines are supposed lines that connect multiple prehistoric or ancient sites, often with a certain kind of energy or paranormal phenomena. The ley lines connect Iona with other prehistoric sites in Scotland, including the Callanish Standing Stones on Lewis and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney. Whether you believe or not, these sites are special. But is it the secret source of Iona’s magic? Who knows.

But what I can say is, a slow travel trip to Iona is rejuvenating to one’s soul. Slow down, breathe in the fresh air, laugh and dance in the rain, and eat great food. What else is there in life?

Before I close, I will leave you with an expert tip for your trip to Iona. I make a joke that no matter what, even if it’s sunny and the weather isn’t forecasted to rain, I always get caught in a mass downpour. Don’t worry, the island is small, so you’re never technically that far away from shelter. For me, the sudden downpour always invokes a laughing fit, which is the right kinda attitude for a place like Iona.

If you’re bouncing around Scotland in addition to Iona, I’d definitely recommend some Hunter wellies (or wellington boots for those who want to be a bit more formal), which are waterproof and perfect for sloshing around in the rain. They even have insulated wellies if you normally get cold feet! Trust me, you’ll want to prepare for rainy days in Scotland!

Until next time, dear readers, slow down and look for the magic in life!

6. How to get to Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. To get to Iona from mainland Scotland, you’ll take two ferries with a drive or bus ride in between.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day. Book in advance.
  • Passenger cost: 3.90 GBP (single) / 7.80 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: 14.70 GBP (single) / 29.40 GBP (return)
• Step 3: Drive 1 hour across the Ross of Mull to Fionnpfort or take Bus 96/496 from Craignure to Fionnpfort.
  • (sorry! I tried to get a cost for the bus, but all I could find was that there is an 18 GBP Mull day pass. surely you can buy single tickets from Craignure to Fionnpfort, I just don’t know how much that costs!)
• Step 4: Fionnpfort to Iona ferry, also on CalMac Ferries (10 minute sailing). With multiple sailings per day during high season. This sailing is a turn up and go, so you pay on board.
  • Passenger cost: 1.85 GBP (single) / 3.70 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: -N/A- remember, no cars on the island for tourists!

Fionnpfort is prounounced FINNA-firt

If you’re driving, you will have to leave your car in Fionnpfort, as only resident vehicles are allowed on Iona. You can either pay for parking directly at the pier or, a short walk away (300 meters), there is a free car park. As you drive through Fionnpfort, you’ll see a sign to turn left for a free car park. I’d suggest that instead of the paid parking. It’s about a 7 minute walk to the pier. Since the ferries more or less go back and forth throughout the day, take the extra 7 minutes for free parking.

If you’d like to stay on Iona, in addition to the two hotels (Argyll Hotel and St. Columba’s Hotel) there are also campsites, pods, self catering houses and B&Bs available.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

A Michelin Green Star differs from a “normal” Michelin Star, as it awards places that combine their gastronomic creativity with commitment to sustainability practices. You’ll see from the tasting menu that sustainability is more than just a fad – Chef Pam Brunton is fully committed to zero waste and the exciting culinary options that offers. But not only that, Chef Pam fully utilizes the local community in crafting her menu or stocking the bothies with delightful amenities. For the only Michelin Green Star in Scotland, Inver’s commitment to sustainability can be seen everywhere.

1. My second stay at Inver

Experiencing something in the dark and cold winter and then again in spring is such a night-to-day juxtaposition that I wasn’t ready for. Sure, I knew that my stay would be comfortable and cozy, but with sunshine, it was a completely different type of comfy and cozy!

This time, with more daylight hours, the bothy was bright and open with lovely views. I spent lots of time sitting at the window enjoying the slow calm over Loch Fyne, with Nina Simone on the record player.

The bothy is thoughtfully stocked with a homemade beeswax lotion balm and artisan lavender body oil from Ciara Gilmartin, who locally forages the plants for her salves and balms. The body oil is a lush treat after soaking in the bothy’s bathtub. There’s also a little bottle of schnapps, for starting or winding down your evening.

There’s a few hours between check in and dinner, so I grabbed my hiking boots and went for a stroll out to the old castle.

2. Go for a walk around Castle Lachlan

One of the things you’ll notice when you arrive to Inver are the views of old Castle Lachlan. The ruined castle was built in 1314, likely for Clan Maclachlan who ruled the area. The stone exterior is the only substantial remaining part of the castle, but it’s still good for a wander and a poke around.

Especially if the weather is nice, I can highly recommend the Old Castle Lachlan and Chapel Trail on AllTrails+. The trail basically starts at Inver and takes you along the shores of Loch Fyne to the castle and a chapel, with breathtaking views over the loch. The terrain is fine, and is doable with regular shoes, but you never know if there was rain the day or night before making the ground soggy. I’d rather not take the chance, and the quick change into hiking boots is always a smart idea.

Don’t worry – You won’t get lost (you can see Inver almost the whole time). It’s the perfect leg stretch after the drive to Inver, and possibly to work up an appetite for your dinner ahead!

3. Drinks and Amuse Bouche at Inver

Prior to the evening’s meal, you’ll be invited to have cocktails in the extremely cozy lounge. Super cozy in the winter with a roaring fire, and still super cozy on a brisk spring evening.

For the amuse bouche, a tray of 4 items was brought out. Starting from the oyster, and going counter-clockwise,

• Oyster & sea buckthorn oil – what a lush and fatty oyster!
• Squid & pickled spruce – personally wasn’t a huge fan of the texture (squid can be rubbery)
• Crab & barley bannock – a bannock is a Scottish type of flatbread, so this was made with barley, topped with crab. WOW – so savory and umami. Delicious!
• Grey mullet & blood orange – local fish ceviche, held in a citrusy crispy fish skin! Light and crisp and wonderful! Inver’s commitment to zero waste means they’re definitely not tossing the fish skin. Loved that it was fish skin chip used to house the ceviche!

4. Inver Tasting Menu

When I had finished my drinks and interesting amuse bouche, I was invited into the dining room. Not sure why, but I tend to eat earlier than almost everyone else, and therefore had the dining room to myself. Maybe I do that on purpose to have a few more quiet moments, not sure. In March, at least, it was a lovely idea to dine earlier, since I could watch the gorgeous sun set over the loch during the meal. And boy was it a stunning sunset!

I actually popped outside for a moment in between courses to enjoy the views. It is, after all, part of the dining experience.

– Garden plate

To start, don’t let this extremely simple looking plate confuse you, it was packed with flavor and interesting texture! The kale and Jerusalem artichokes come from Kate’s garden down the road.

I love that the waitress referred to her as just “Kate.” Who is Kate? She’s the one who grows these delicious vegetables and lives just down the road. It’s not a nameless random supplier, it’s not a corporation, it’s just Kate.

Think of this as a baby and a mature set of artichokes on the left and kale (and kalette) on the right. This course is meant to be eaten with your hands, dipping the vegetables in the smear up top. The stand outs in this course was the baby artichokes, incredibly light and crispy. The other artichokes, pureed and pressed between two thin pieces of artichoke – with a surprise umami burst of miso mayo!

– Bread & butter broth

No photo of the bread and butter broth, but you’ll forgive me – it makes an appearance in the IG reel at the end of the post.

The bread at Inver is made in-house with Scottish grains, which is milled into flour downstairs. The butter is home-churned butter. Leftover sourdough ends of the bread are soaked into a broth with brown butter and yeast bubbles. And the result is an surprisingly flavorful “bread broth” to cleanse the palette and to open your senses for the courses to come.

I love that the grain is milled downstairs, and that they’re using the bread-ends instead of throwing them away! Love that the zero-waste ethos extends to bread! But not only that, the bread broth was stunningly delicious – savory and umami, you’d never know it was made from leftover bread!

– Scallop & langoustine, broccoli, & blackcurrant leaf

Pickled herring with Loch Fyne scallops and langoustine, with crispy potatoes for texture, and a sea-herb smoked mussel emulsion (with black current leaf oil) poured over.

Loved all the fresh herbs – it was creamy and light and crisp, with the minty parsley reduction. And somewhere inside, some hidden herring roe that I had to ask about. Herring is a sustainable fish, whereas sturgeon* (where caviar comes from) is not sustainable. But you really wouldn’t be able to tell that you’re eating herring roe versus caviar. The burst of flavor from the herring roe was a wonderful surprise!

Note on the sustainability of sturgeon: wild caught sturgeon, ironically, is NOT sustainable, because there are numbers are very low, giving rise to illegal fisheries. Farmed caviar is MUCH better in terms of sustainability. – Marine Conservation Society: Good Fish Guide

– Celeriac, brown crab & apple

Ok, I’m not going to lie – this was my least favorite course. They can’t all be the best, can they? This was a celeriac terrine with brown crab rare bits and white crab, with a white asparagus sauce. There was also apple and pears diced up with the white crab.

Honestly I’m not huge on the taste and flavors of celeriac and white asparagus specifically, so that’s probably it. But everyone’s palette is different, so maybe you’d enjoy it!

– Newmiln Farm pork & celery

The pork main course brought back a little memory from when I was waiting to check in earlier – I saw that pig cheeks were offered on the day’s lunch menu. While I lusted after that with serious FOMO, I remembered about Inver’s “use every part of the animal” ethos, I knew (and seriously hoped) that pork would show up on the evening’s menu, and it did!

The pork was served in 4 different cuts and styles with pickled alexanders and celery. The whole pig came from Newmiln Farms, an organic farm in Perthshire. The exquisite quatro of pork was – the loin, collar (copper), belly, sausage, with a fennel and dill sauce. Absolutely delicious!! My favorite had to be the collar, which was sooooo tender and juicy!

– surprise dessert

First of all, any place that gives you surprise desserts deserves a place in my heart. Let’s be real. I truly loved that there was a surprise dessert and even more so that it was pink! (only my favorite color!)

I remember the surprise dessert was delicious, with interesting textures. Here are the notes I took from that night, which makes little sense to me now, but from what I can surmise, it must have been blood orange flavored 😉

• bee pollen and blood orange,
• candied blood orange peel,
• blood orange sorbet with crunchy bits.
• (a side note that I obviously forgot to ask about) were the crunchy bits the bee pollen?

But unfortunately, I can’t really remember – was it a mousse? Was it a puffy meringue? And really, what were the crunchy bits? Did the bee pollen have a taste or flavor?

Apologies that I can’t recall, so I guess it’ll be a surprise for you as well!

– Pear, walnut & ginger

Poached pears with a walnutty, gingery ice cream to top it off. Normally, ginger wouldn’t be my first dessert palette taste to choose, but take note – it was very gingery! But nice! But more importantly, I loved the walnut flavor, which went so well with the pears and ginger. Walnuts are frequently ignored for cooler nuts and often downgraded as a sprinkling on salads or inside banana breads. But, I’m here to tell you, the walnut flavor is incredible and just the thing you didn’t know you needed!

– Petite Fours

To close out the meal, (sort of) petite fours and a single espresso for yours truly. On the left, a sea lettuce cocoa saba tart and a fluffy delicious madeleine on the right.

For the sea lettuce cocoa saba tart – a few things to note: I’m guessing the tart casing was made from foraged sea lettuce nearby. Saba is a syrupy wine byproduct that tastes of rich raisins and plums. It gave the tart a distinctly tart flavoring, helping to balance the cocoa nibs.

Madeleines are simply one of my favorites things to come out of France. And of course, Inver’s madeleine was a warm and fluffy perfection to end to the distinctly wonderful evening.

5. Picnic Breakfast at Inver Restaurant & Rooms

After a cozy evening in the bothy that included a hot bath with some Nina Simone on the record player, I was excited for the last part of my stay – the Inver picnic breakfast. They provided a breakfast menu in the bothy, and before dinner, I had ticked off all my selections for the morning. And this time, now that it wasn’t winter any longer, I could eat my breakfast with a view, and the sun shining down over the loch.

For you early birds, don’t worry – if you need coffee or tea before breakfast delivery times, there are both (along with a kettle) in the bothy. So, out of everything, what did I end up getting?

• of course, the porridge bread, inver butter & rhubarb jam,
• boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt,
• cheese & butter bun (Rainton Tomme – a semi-hard cheese, thyme & sumac) OMG. Buns like this are my weakness. Especially a cheesy and buttery one! Rainton Tomme is a raw milk cheese from the all organic Rainton Farm down in Dumfries & Galloway. Rainton Farm follows an ethical dairy model, and you’ll be pleased to know they focus on “treating the animals, the land, our environment and the people who work here with respect and kindness”. I would expect nothing less from anyone that supplies to Inver honestly!
• Inver potted pork rillettes – not knowing what pork rillettes were, I obviously ordered this. While I would say it’s similar to pate, the texture is chunkier and courser than a smooth pate. Traditionally, pork rillettes are made from either pork belly or pork shoulder. And honestly, I’d be willing to bet that the pork came from the same organic black pig that we were treated to at dinner. The pork rillettes were perfect to spread over the sourdough bread. What a flavor!
• Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
• and of course, orange juice and coffee.

The perfect bothy picnic breakfast with a view!

6. Parting Thoughts on Inver Restaurant & Rooms

WOW. Just WOW. What an absolutely stunning of an experience – the meal, the stay, the views – all of it exceeded my wildest expectations! I already had high expectations given my wonderful stay a few months prior. However, finally getting to experience the full Inver tasting menu was beyond anything I could have imagined!

The sustainability ethos can be found almost everywhere on Inver’s menus, and from talking to their wonderful wait staff, you can tell sustainability serves more than just lip service here. They all truly believe in the local community behind the ingredients and the zero waste practices that fuel Inver’s creativity.

Chef Pam and her partner Rob have created an incredible oasis of culinary excitement far from any city or urban area in Scotland.

It’s the perfect getaway that includes a short hike, cocktails, Nina Simone and a bath – and a truly exquisite tasting menu to dazzle your taste buds.

And to me, all that adds up to absolute perfection.

This time, I didn’t get a chance to say hello to Chef Pam and Rob, as they were away for a family gathering. But given that it was a highly anticipated return, I sent them a note about the incredible stay afterwards. I sincerely look forward to the next time I can visit Inver – it is truly wonderful and memorable!

With that, my dear friends and readers, I bid you adieu!

7. Information on booking your stay at Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located: 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh
Accessible by public transportation? No.

Dining at Inver is open to non-residents for both lunch and dinner, depending on the day of the week. Monday to Wednesday, Inver exclusively serves dinners to guests staying at Inver. From Thursday to Sunday, Inver opens to both guests and non-residents. Lunches are ala carte, whereas dinner is a 6-course tasting menu.

• Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
• Drink pairing: + 65 GBP per person
• Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
• Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (three have baths)
• Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking.  However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Here’s all you need to know about the Banksy show in Glasgow

• Tickets are available at: https://cutandrun.co.uk/
• 15 GBP for adults / 5 GBP for children / 10 GBP for students/OAP/low waged/tight fisted / Carers free
• You’ll sign up for a date and timed slot
• Sunday – Thursday: 9am – 11pm
  Friday and Saturday: 9am – 5am the following morning
• a handful of walk in tickets are available the day of, starting at 9 am.
• The exhibit is wheelchair accessible.

You’ll have to surrender your phone into a locked pouch during the exhibit, but souvenir polaroids are available upon request (and is free).

Curious about how to get the Banksy Herald newspaper announcement?

With the announcement, fans across the globe have been searching for the June 15, 2023, issue of the Herald newspaper. Here is the direct link to purchase souvenir copies of the announcement. You’ll pay 2.20 GBP per issue, and can be shipped globally. UK-shipping was 10 GBP. And of course, the newspaper is already appearing on eBay for those uber-collectors.

This exhibition differs from The Art of Banksy exhibits (which I have also attended) in that, this show (Cut and Run) is an official Banksy exhibition. That means, he participated in planning it and authorized the show. The Art of Banksy, although it displays official works by Banksy, it is a collection of privately owned works. And as far as I know, Banksy did not authorize or curate the show.

Similarly, the permanent Banksy collection at the MOCO in Amsterdam (which I absolutely LOVE), is not authorized or curated by Banksy.

The last, official, Banksy exhibition I went to was at the Walled Off Hotel, in the West Bank (Palestine). To say that it changed my life and how I view the world is an understatement. And while I can’t guarantee a life altering, thought provoking exhibit this time, Banksy is full of surprises, so you never know.

Depending on when I’m able to go, this post may or may not be updated with details and thoughts from it.

To close this quick and short post, if you’re wondering why Banksy chose Glasgow, the show’s announcement in The Herald points to one factor:

“I’ve kept these stencils hidden away for years, mindful they could be used as evidence in a charge of criminal damage. But that moment seems to have passed, so now I’m exhibiting them in a gallery as works of art. I’m not sure which is the greater crime.”

-Banksy (officially to the Herald)

The Duke of Wellington statue in Glasgow, it is an institution unto itself. No one knows who was the first person to climb atop the statue and affix a traffic cone on top of the Duke’s head. And yes, many police through the years have tried to take it down, only to have the cone reappear almost instantly. Nowadays, (still there) it’s a basic reminder of the delightful character of the city of Glasgow.

The Duke of Wellington statue is directly in front of the entrance to the Gallery of Modern Art. So find the traffic cone on the Duke’s head, and you’ll be right at the entrance to Banksy’s newest solo exhibition.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Travelling to Glasgow for the Banksy Exhibition 2023?

• Coming from Edinburgh? Take the train to Glasgow Queen Street from Edinburgh Waverley – multiple trains per day, approximately 1 hour + each.
• Coming from London? Why not take the sleeper train to Scotland and arrive in Glasgow Central first thing in the morning! Here’s a review of the luxury overnight train.

Where to see Banksy in Glasgow? – at the GOMA

Cut and Run is being held at the
Gallery of Modern Art in Glasgow,
111 Queen St, Royal Exchange Square,
Glasgow G1 3AH

• 2 minute walk from Glasgow Queen Street Station;
• 8 minute walk from Glasgow Central Station.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

• The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
• In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

• Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
• Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
• Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

1. The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
2. Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
3. Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
4. Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
5. Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
6. Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

• Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
• Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
• The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
• There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

• waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
• waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
• waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • Browse ScotRail options to Oban
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
• Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
  • Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
• Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you’re having trouble pronouncing Cheltenham like me, don’t think too hard about it – it goes by quick: CHELT-en-em.

Cheltenham is famous for a number of things, mostly unrelated to each other and random, in comparison with each other:

• Cheltenham is the most complete Regency town in the UK and you will get Pride and Prejudice vibes from the old spa town. Cheltenham came to prominence after King George III was recommended to “take in the waters” from the mineral springs in 1788.
• Now remember, I said … unrelated.
• Cheltenham is the headquarters for GCHQ, Britain’s home of signal intelligence. The building, affectionally called a donut because it looks like one, does not accept visitors. However, there are some fun murals around town that remind you that they’re there and always listening.
• Previously called the “Calcutta of the Cotswolds” and an “Anglo-Indian Paradise”, Cheltenham had the most Anglo-Indian residents in Britain outside of London. Because of Cheltenham’s history with The East India Company and the British Raj era, it is home to a number of incredible South Asian restaurants.
• Cheltenham is at the gateway to the Cotswolds or at the edge of the Cotswolds. It could be a great base for exploring all those cute picturesque Cotswolds villages!

• It’s home to the Cheltenham Festival, “a horse racing-based meeting in the National Hunt racing calendar in the UK, with race prize money second only to the Grand National.” – wikipedia
  • Sorry to use the definition from Wikipedia, but having never gone to a horse race, I wanted to use the right terminology when I described it. In National Hunt racing (or jump racing), horses are required to jump fences and ditches. And the biggest National Hunt events in the UK are the Grand National and the Cheltenham Gold Cup.
• Besides the big horse racing festival, Cheltenham is home to over 30 different festivals, and is known as the Festival Town! Among the bigger festivals are the Cheltenham Jazz Festival (April-May), the Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival (summer), the Cheltenham Paint Festival (for street art, in September) and the world’s first Literary Festival (October).

With the variety of things to do in Cheltenham, there really is something for everyone!

Before I begin, parts of this trip were sponsored, including my stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments, as well as my bike ride around Cheltenham with Compass Holidays. I sincerely thank them for inviting me on this trip. Besides the cycling tour, all itinerary arrangements and opinions are my own.

With the disclaimer out of the way, let’s go!

Day 1 – A Foodie Weekend Getaway in Cheltenham

I arrived to Cheltenham Spa rail station midday Friday on a brisk but sunny March morning, having taken a short 45 min train from Birmingham New Street. The station is located about a mile outside of the town center. A quick stop at Beechurst Serviced Apartments to drop off my bags, and to check out my nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham. (all the details below!)

I couldn’t have been more anxious to get out and about. Easily enough, the bus into town is located right outside. Turn left out of the apartments to take Bus 97/98 Gold directly into Cheltenham. Turn right (and cross the street) for the bus to Gloucester.

Less than 10 minutes later, I arrived at the UK’s most complete Regency Town.

Le Champignon Sauvage

Knowing that Cheltenham was a foodie town meant carefully selecting each of my meals in order to maximize my time there. Of course, last minute planning also meant that my first meal happened to be the most extravagant – a lunch tasting menu at Le Champignon Sauvage. Le Champignon Sauvage, or the Wild Mushroom in French, had been Cheltenham and Gloucestershire’s only Michelin Starred restaurant for many years until nearby Lumiere was awarded a star this year (2023).

Run by husband and wife, David and Helen Everitt-Matthias, since 1987 Le Champignon Sauvage has been an institution in culinary Cheltenham. An old review I read called Chef David’s style as “a pure marriage of rich and poor” opting to use cheaper cuts of meats and offal, along with food foraged from the Cotswolds’ outdoors, in classically French dishes.

Of course, people can say this is part of the sustainable eating, zero waste fad. But to be honest, Chef David and Helen began doing this decades ago, when a recession hit and times were tough. And you’d never feel like you were eating anything less than stellar. Not only is the food absolutely exquisite, but the experience is complimented by the lovely and unique decor, thanks to Helen. The restaurant is filled with incredible art that kept this solo diner enthralled throughout the meal.

My 3-course lunch set me back 47 GBP (a great deal if you’re hungry, considering the 2-course option is 40 GBP). Despite me showing you only two courses, you better believe I had all three. 😉 This was the perfect start to my foodie weekend in Cheltenham.

After lunch, I needed a serious stroll. Luckily, the town is very walkable with lots of outdoor green spaces. I made sure to stop by Montpellier Gardens and Imperial Gardens to soak in the brisk spring day, but in reality I was on a food mission to try Cheltenham’s signature pastry.

The HorseChoux Pastry at L’Artisan

A foodie visit to Cheltenham is not complete without your signature HorseChoux pastry from L’Artisan. Paying homage to the racecourse, the horseshoe-shaped pastry is made with a choux bun base (see what they did there? love a good pun) and cream puff filling, with a thin, light chocolate horseshoe on top. The attention to detail is lovely, as each chocolate horseshoe has the 7 lucky pins on the horseshoe.

I opted for the original flavor, the Racecourse, with hazelnut and almond praline filling. You can also get the Pittville Park (pistachio), the Pump Room (zingy lemon) and the Queens (raspberry). They also have limited edition flavors as well!

Getting a HorseChoux pastry in Cheltenham is an absolute must if you’ve got a sweet tooth! I took one back with me to Beechurst Serviced Apartments, and it made the most delightful snack paired with a strong coffee!

After grabbing my HorseChoux, I did another turn about town before catching the bus back to the apartment for a wee rest.

The Curry Corner

Sometimes I underestimate how tiring it can be to be walking around outside in briskly cold weather. My wee rest turned into curling up in the cozy Holst Apartment for way too long, and suddenly it was time to sort my dinner. I knew it had to be South Asian food, due to Cheltenham’s history and importance with the British East Indies Company.

For those interested in this unique intersection of history, food, India and Imperialism, I’d suggest the Curry and Colonels tour. (Next time for me!)

I opted for The Curry Corner, an award-winning restaurant opened by the Krori family, which claims to be one of the oldest Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK! Thankfully, they deliver which made all my cozy dreams come true. I may have gone a little overboard with 2 orders of samosas, but such is the benefit of having a full kitchen and refrigerator at my disposal! Leftovers for later. 😉

My two orders of samosas were the regular veggie samosas along with an order of Brixham crab samosas, filled with Cornwall fresh crab. Of course, the fresh crab samosa would catch my eye! It was stunningly flavorful, sweet even. I’m so glad I got both samosas for some extra variety!

The main event had to be the Chef’s signature 16 spice masala, which I had with lamb tikka. Add an incredibly fragrant garlic pilaf rice with it, and you have a perfect night in! Chefs Shamsul and Saleha Krori have been cooking since the restaurant opened in 1977, and is now joined by daughter Monrusha in the kitchen.

Day 2 – exploring Cheltenham by bike

After a fabulous first day focused on food, Day 2 in Cheltenham would be spent exploring the Regency Cheltenham cycle trail on bike, thanks to Compass Holidays. The self-guided trail, which starts at the Cheltenham Train Station, is a gentle 6-mile trail, taking you along the Honeybourne Line, through Pittville Park, and back around through to the town centre.

This activity was kindly gifted by Compass Holidays.

There were a few admin items to take care of before setting out: download the app (for my cycling GPS) and adjust the height of the bicycle to fit me. Remember, safety first!

Prices for the Regency Cheltenham Cycle Trail are:

• the mobile app with GPS and information on the cycle trail – 10 GBP;
• standard bicycle hire (25 GBP) or e-Bike hire (35 GBP). All hires include mobile phone mount, helmet, lock and basic repair kit.

and then I was off, along the Honeybourne line (an old railyway line) and onto the Pittville Pump Room!

The Pittville Pump Room

The Pittville Pump Room, built between 1825 and 1830, is the largest (and newest) spa building to be constructed in Cheltenham. The waters around Cheltenham were known to have high mineral content since the early 1700s, but it wasn’t until King George III visited Cheltenham in 1788 that the town became increasingly famous for its waters. Unfortunately the Pump Room did not prove to be successful venture, and the Room and the grounds were passed to the town council in 1890. Nowadays, you’ll find various exhibitions being hosted there, as well as being a concert venue for the Cheltenham Music Festival.

The Pump Room is located on the northern end of Pittville Park, and is a lovely park with a playground for families. One of the lovely green spaces that Cheltenham has!

Cheltenham Racecourse & the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway

From here, although it’s not on the Regency Cycle Trail, I thought it was worth a slight detour to go visit the racecourse. When I visited, the Cheltenham Festival was only a week or two away, and excitement around the races were high. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see any horses, jockeys or even the race track itself, but it was fun to take a stroll around the grounds.

From one end of the racecourse to the other is a little surprise that I discovered – the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway. For those rail enthusiasts, this is a volunteer-run heritage steam and diesel railway that travels 28 miles between Cheltenham Racecourse and Broadway (Cotswolds). The route follows the Great Western Rail’s old Cheltenham – Birmingham main line, which use to run via Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.

For 25 GBP, you can get an unlimited day ticket to go between Cheltenham and Broadway, riding in 70 year old train carriages, pulled by either a steam or diesel-powered locomotive (engine car). This definitely goes hand in hand with a “step back in time” to experience Cheltenham theme! I didn’t have time on this trip for the rail journey, but I hear the views across the Cotswolds are absolutely stunning!

Lunch at The Coconut Tree

After having worked up an appetite from the morning’s cycle and exploration, and checking my map for the rest of the route, I decided now would be the perfect time to pause and have a lunch break. You can’t be too surprised at this priority.

I don’t know if it was the South Asian mood I was already in or if I was just craving Sri Lankan street food, but I decided to go with the Coconut Tree for lunch. Interesting story, 5 Sri Lankan friends made their way to the UK to be closer to family or to continue their studies. One of them made Cheltenham his base, and the rest followed soon after. In 2016, the 5 friends had to move out of their flat and were looking for a new place with cheap rent. They came across the flat above St. Paul’s Tavern (which included the rent for the pub) and from there, the idea of a Sri Lankan tapas place with great cocktails was born.

After 6 months of renovating it themselves at night after working their day job, the first Coconut Tree opened in Cheltenham. Today, they have locations in 9 cities across Southwest England and Wales.

For me, it was an egg hopper (coconut milk pancake, with lots of sambol) and black pork (belly). The food was incredibly flavorful (and super authentic!) and the vibe was fun and easy going. If I didn’t have to cycle home, I definitely would have tried some of their delicious cocktails! The Coconut Tree is definitely a must eat in Cheltenham!

After lunch, I was back on the trail and enjoying spring starting to blossom around me.

The trail takes you back into the city center, and it’s a great time to pause to roam around on foot. Besides the distinctly Regency architecture, there are a few sculptures and things you’ll come across that definitely require a more detailed look. Two of my favorites would be the Neptune Fountain, rumored to be inspired by Rome’s Trevi Fountain, and the Hare and the Minotaur on The Promenade. These two vastly different sculptures really only highlight Cheltenham’s culture of creativity and arts, which the town loves to celebrate through its numerous festivals.

The CheeseWorks – always planning ahead!

I took the opportunity whilst in town to do a wee bit of shopping. I stopped in a few vintage shops and almost came home with a gold embroidered cloak! What if there is a ball? You never know when you’ll need one? But the real excitement of my shopping experience was at CheeseWorks.

I walked into CheeseWorks with a mission – to get local charcuterie that would become my quiet dinner at home. I began chatting with the clerk over the local cheeses, and then he asked what I was looking for. “Honestly,” I said, “I just want to spend about 15 GBP, and get a random spread of local meats and cheeses.”

Simple enough, you came to the right place.

-The Cheeseworks

I’ll be honest, I pick and chose the cheeses at random, but one that was phenomenal was the wild garlic Cornish yarg. In the photo above, you’ll see a block on the bottom right wrapped in something dark. Well, it’s wrapped in wild garlic. If you’re a garlic head like me, you’ll love this! And with an additional 3 GBP, I added a fig jam spread (my favorite!) and some linseed crackers, and I was completely sorted for a quiet dinner at 18 GBP!

Parks and Gardens around Cheltenham town

I mentioned earlier that Cheltenham has a lot of lovely green space for little strolls and people watching. Armed with a latte from the Clementine Cafe, I went around the parks and gardens, found a bench, and sat enjoying my afternoon. Spring was on the verge of blooming, so I bet they’re even lovelier in warmer months! Be sure to check out

• Sanford Park (below right) – take in the wandering foot paths with the Annecy Gardens and Italian Gardens brightening up the park in warmer seasons,
• Imperial Square and Gardens (below left) – located near The Promenade, and planted with thousands of bedding plants for lush floral displays. With Regency architecture surrounding the square and the Garden Bar (in the summer), the best thing you can do is grab a drink and soak in Regency Cheltenham around you!
• Montpelier Gardens – near town center, Montpelier Gardens is mostly divided into two sections – one with tennis courts, a cafe and facilities, and the Gardens Gallery community art gallery. The northern section is more for picnics, walking, sitting, and overall low key hanging out.

With my charcuterie platter in tow, I made my way back to Beechurst Serviced Apartments to coorie in for the evening. If you didn’t want to stay in like me, I’d suggest MUSE Brasserie, Mowgli Street Food, Lumiere (Cheltenham’s newest Michelin Star restaurant), or Purslane Restaurant (known for their sustainably caught seafood!). For those wanting a great cocktail, I’ve heard incredible things about The Alchemist Cheltenham. Those are the ones that kept my attention during my trip research and the ones I’d go back to Cheltenham to visit!

The next morning, I managed to run out for a quick breakfast at WOODKraft before my train. In case anyone was wondering, after a weekend of eating, it was a delectable granola with yogurt and passionfruit. Had I not been rushing out the door to catch my noon train, I would have rounded out the weekend with a quick trip to Gloucester to visit the Gloucester Cathedral, which originally broke ground in 1089! For those Harry Potter fans, the Gloucester Cathedral was used as a filming location for Hogwarts. But alas, train schedules call!

My stay at Beechurst Serviced Apartments

Beechurst Serviced Apartments are located in a renovated, grand Victorian farmhouse, just outside of Cheltenham town. There are 5 beautiful and spacious self-catering apartments for you to choose from – four one-bedroom apartments and one studio flat. Owned and operated by Angie and Steve, seasoned veterans of the hospitality industry, Beechurst Serviced Apartments is a family run business. Their previous experience in luxury hotels can be seen in the thoughtful touches around the apartments. There is everything you need to just come in and make it your home for the weekend!

One of the first things you may notice about Beechurst Serviced Apartments when you arrive are the solar panels on its roof. This helps to reduce the building’s energy requirements by almost 40%, which is incredible! That also means that they’ve cut down on single-use amenities to reduce waste, so be sure to pack your bathroom toiletries along with you.

All of the apartments at Beechurst Serviced Apartments are named and decorated after prominent people who came from Cheltenham. For me, it was the Holst Apartment, named after Cheltenham-born Gustav Holst, a composer best known for his orchestral suite, The Planets. Little musical touches were added to the Holst Apartment, keeping in line with the theme.

The Holst Apartment was so comfortable and cozy, and really, such a nice self catering apartment in Cheltenham! Having a full kitchen at your disposal is something that I enjoy, especially when my whole weekend centered around food! I’m not going to lie, I heated up and nibbled on my Bangladeshi curry and delicious samosas as a snack throughout the weekend, and was so grateful for that kitchen!

Despite spending the majority of the brisk weekend outdoor walking and cycling around town, the shower in the Holst Apartment was exactly what I needed – hot and incredibly powerful. Perfect to loosen the muscles and immediately climb into the comfortable bed.

Besides the kitchen and the incredible shower, which are phenomenal amenities, each of the apartments (and studio) has a large, smart TV mounted and a bookshelf with plenty of books to choose from.

Although Beechurst Serviced Apartments sits outside of Cheltenham town center, the bus stop directly outside made going in and out of town super easy. You really don’t need your car for your weekend in Cheltenham, and it’s easy and lovely seeing the sites by bicycle on the Regency Cycle Trail. But if you want to use Cheltenham as a launchpad for a wee getaway in the Cotswolds, then your car will come in handy!

Whether you’re looking for a foodie weekend getaway or a short break to “take in the waters”, Beechurst Serviced Apartments make for a wonderful base for a weekend getaway in Cheltenham!

Parting Thoughts on my Foodie Weekend in Cheltenham

WOW – I could have never expected that Cheltenham was so delicious!! Prior to visiting Cheltenham, I had no idea that it had such a strong, historical South Asian connection that is still very much alive in its cuisine! Foodies will definitely not want to miss the HorseChoux Pastry, which pays homage to the annual Cheltenham Festival and races.

From Sri Lankan street food to the UK’s oldest Bangladeshi restaurant on one end, to some of the best local charcuterie from one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, the Cheltenham food scene encompasses a lovely mix of historical, traditional and local. The fun and vibrant culinary scene continues to expand with restaurants and cocktail bars being recognized by outsiders more and more.

Staying at Beechurst Serviced Apartments was perfect for me with easy access into town and all the homely touches I needed for a weekend away.

To conclude, my weekend in Cheltenham was a wonderful escape for anyone looking for a little bit of history along with a culinary adventure. Whether you’re a horse racing fan, a foodie, or just someone who loves exploring new places, Cheltenham has something for everyone. With its charming streets, picturesque gardens, and mouth-watering food, you’ll fall in love with Cheltenham in no time. Cheltenham is easily accessible as a weekend getaway from London (or even further afield like Glasgow)! It’s a town that will steal your heart and leave you yearning for more!

For other foodie adventures around the UK, feel free to check out:

• a love letter to Shetland I wrote after visiting to explore their food culture;
• a foodie adventure around Edinburgh, exploring the Scottish capital with haggis, whisky, and all the greats of Scottish cuisine;
• a delectable food and whisky pairing hosted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

Planning your trip to Cheltenham

1. How to get to Cheltenham?

• Cheltenham Spa Station is accessible from London Paddington on GWR, which only takes 2 hours with no changes.
• There are also direct trains to Cheltenham Spa from if you’re coming from Manchester Picadilly (2 hr) and Birmingham New Street (45 min).
• For all available trains into Cheltenham Spa

2. Ideas for things to do in Cheltenham and best places to eat in Cheltenham

• Join the Regency Cycle Trail with Compass Holidays and see the historic town on 2-wheels!
• Explore Cheltenham on a self-guided 90-minute audio tour of historic Cheltenham town at your own pace! For only 5.56 GBP / 7 USD, you get a Blue Badge tourist guide accessible any time through an easy app. Click for your self-guided tour of Cheltenham!
• For something a little funner and different, go on a scavenger hunt through town and explore Cheltenham that way! Great for groups and families!
• Stroll around town and enjoy the variety of street art and sculptures!
• Soak in the waters at Cheltenham’s spas – the Greenway Hotel & Spa and the DoubleTree by Hilton Cheltenham are considered the best!

Cheltenham also has a variety of afternoon tea services, which is on point for Regency Cheltenham. I wanted to go and enjoy afternoon tea, but alas – other food called 😉

• The Queen’s Hotel, The Regency Tea Rooms, Malmaison, Once Upon a Tea Room, and No. 131 Restaurants are the afternoon tea in Cheltenham that came up most during my research.
• Or, for a completely different spin on afternoon tea, (for you sushi lovers) Kibou has a Japanese-inspired afternoon tea that I really wanted to try! But alas, next time.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

• Link
• Mail
• Instagram
• Facebook

3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

I’m no stranger to sleeper trains or overnight travel, having often slingshot my way across Europe using a complex and random combination of overnight trains and buses. Of course there were also the (slightly miserable) ones in Southeast Asia, slowly bouncing along at night from Bangkok to Laos, where you felt the tug and pull of the train every time it thought it could. But that was then, this is now. So sit back, relax, and let’s chug along together on this overnight train adventure!

Welcome to the Caledonian Sleeper, your sleeper train to the Highlands.

1. Introducing the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper is the only sleeper train to Scotland and is a true gem of British travel. Whether you’re heading up to Scotland for business or pleasure, the Caledonian Sleeper is both luxurious and convenient – two factors that often make the best journey. It has cozy private cabins and individual seats (something for everyone!), delicious dining options (both room service and in the club car / lounge car), and stunning views of the English and Scottish countryside.

From London Euston at night, the Caledonian Sleeper connects you to one of these great places in Scotland:

• Edinburgh Waverley
• Glasgow Central
• Inverness: includes stops in Stirling, Gleneagles, Aviemore
• Fort William
• and Aberdeen.

(accessible room shown above)

For the purposes of this post, I am writing with London as the starting point. This trip can also be done in reverse – from any of those 5 locations in Scotland, down to London in the morning.

There are a few different options for seats / accommodations on board the Caledonian Sleeper. Both seats and cabins have accessible options for those who may need it. Train tickets for accessible rooms and seats can now be booked online!

Prices for the Caledonian Sleeper depend on the actual route you’re taking (some are longer than others) and how early you book your tickets, so with all things, planning ahead is always better!

• Comfort Seats start from 50 GBP,
• Classic Rooms from 175 GBP for Solo or 205 GBP for Shared,
• Club Rooms from 235 GBP for Solo and 290 GBP for Shared, and
• Caledonian Doubles from 345 GBP for Solo and 410 GBP for Shared.

(Hooray for pricing that doesn’t include a single supplement!)

These prices are for a one-way journey. If you want a round trip, simply book two one-ways. There are no cost savings with booking a return journey.

– Complimentary Sleep Kit and Amenities Bag (Double Only)

The complimentary Sleep Kit, which comes with all reservations, includes an eye mask and ear plugs. The additional pouch with Arran Sense of Scotland amenities (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, lip balm, anti-bacterial gel and hand cream) are included in Caledonian Double.

– Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?

The short answer: if you’re 2 people – definitely yes! If you’re 1 person, I still say yes – even if you want to get a cabin.

Normally, I travel between London and Glasgow on the Avanti West Coast train. On average, it costs 100 GBP one-way and takes 4.5 hours. When you take into consideration a hotel room either in Glasgow (100 GBP) or London (200+ GBP), the cost justification becomes a little easier.

• To compare, on average, the Classic Room on this route costs 210 GBP and will take between 8-10 hours. But, you’ve moved from A to B in your sleep and you can start your day in a new city!

Additionally, according to a 2021 Rail & Transit Study, taking the overnight train to Scotland instead of flying reduces the carbon footprint by almost 90%!

• the study was based on a domestic UK flight between London and Inverness, and one hotel stay;
• Total kgCO2/ep for Flight & Hotel: 288.9
• Total kgCO2/ep for Caledonian Sleeper: 33

So, taking the sleeper train is an environmentally friendly way to travel between London and Scotland!

2. The new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston

Prior to my near-midnight departure from London Euston, guests in Caledonian Club Room and Caledonian Double Rooms are invited to relax in the new Caledonian Sleeper Lounge at London Euston. If you’re heading to Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can access the lounge starting from 20:45, basically after the passengers for the Aberdeen, Fort William and Inverness train are fully boarded onto their train.

The new lounge, just opened in 2024 is located on Platform 1, right next to where you’ll board the train. With comfortable seats, free drinks and snacks available (hot foods and alcohol available for a fee), and clean, shower facilities, what’s not to enjoy about the lounge?

For me, it had been a long day, so a shower was a must. Yes, I have a shower inside my Caledonian Double Suite, but a stationary shower is better than one where you’re balancing with the motion of the railway tracks! And boy, after a long day, there is nothing better than a shower!

Just ask the lounge attendant for a towel. The showers are equipped with Arran Sense of Scotland shampoo and body wash.

💡Expert tips on showering in the Euston Guest Lounge:

• I always travel with a pair of flip-flops, and I’m glad I had them with me! There was no bath mat available yet.
• There are also no hair dryers yet, so either ask for an extra towel in the beginning or use your bath towel to towel dry your hair.
• There is a heated towel rack in the cubicle.
• While there is room in the shower cubicle for my small luggage and backpack, I continuously had to maneuver around to grab things out of my luggage that I needed. Smartly pack your bag in advance to accommodate this!

The Euston Guest Lounge is brand new in 2024, and it was already a relaxing way to start my journey. I didn’t opt for a pre-boarding meal, but I spotted a few folks enjoying the haggis, neeps and tatties. It looked great!

For more details on lounge access:

• Euston Guest Lounge
• Other stations

3. Boarding the Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re in the lounge, an announcement will be made when its time to board. But if you’re not in the lounge, the sign boards in London Euston station will let you know when boarding begins. The Caledonian Sleeper departs from Platform 1, which is on the very right end of the station.

The carriages are in order depending on where /when you depart the train. There are train attendants along the way to show you the way, and to check you in once you arrive at the right carriage. They’ll tell you that your room (if you had one) is unlocked and the key is found inside it.

And while it’s not mandatory by any means, might I suggest plopping down on your bed for an obligatory comfy selfie as you settle in and relax for your overnight train journey ahead!

4. Food and Drink options on the luxury sleeper train to Scotland

Honestly, who would I be if I didn’t devote a mini section to the food and drink?

The food and drinks available on the Caledonian Sleeper differ depending on which route you’re taking – Edinburgh and Glasgow routes enjoy the Lowlander menu, whereas Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William guests will have the Highlander menu. I took a quick peak at both of them, and don’t worry – no matter if you’re traveling the Lowlander or Highlander route, whisky, haggis, and Irn Bru are on both menus, so rest assured – you can try all 3 and become an Honorary Scot!

Traveling on the Caledonian Sleeper during the summer time means that sunrise is earlier, and you’ll get incredible views while you enjoy your breakfast.

If you’re in the Caledonian Double (first class) or the Club Room, breakfast is included in your ticket, which can be eaten in the Club Car or served in your room. Note the final breakfast service times at the bottom. For most destinations, you’ll need to be served before 7 am (except Fort William and Inverness), so if you’re not an early bird, set an alarm so you won’t miss breakfast! Hang your breakfast order on the door within 30 minutes after departure.

There is also an in-seat / room service dining menu available for Classic Room and Seated Coach travelers.

– Limited Edition Caledonian Sleeper Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Annandale Distillery

2023 marks the 150th Anniversary of the Caledonian Sleeper train, and boy are they celebrating in style! In collaboration with Annandale Distillery, a Lowland scotch whisky distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, Caledonian Sleeper has just released an exclusive Caledonian Sleeper Whisky on a limited run of 200 bottles. Matured for 8 years in an American oak ex-bourbon cask, this single cask whisky is bottled at 50% ABV.

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According to the press release, the Caledonian Sleeper whisky,

“offers hints of creamy sweet toffee combined with the crisp flavours of ripe granny smith apples and conference pears.”

-Annandale Distillery

Commemorate your trip by purchasing a 5cl bottle (with exclusive Caledonian Sleeper labeling) to enjoy as a nightcap or a future souvenir.

Sales of the Caledonian Sleeper limited release single cask whisky will benefit Railway Children, an international charity working with street children, and a bottle will be auctioned off with proceeds benefiting Give a Dog a Bone, a Scottish loneliness and animal charity.

To find out more about the Caledonian Sleeper whisky and to book your journey,

5. Caledonian Sleeper First Class Review – my true life experience

I am writing this section at 05:30 from an empty Club Car, as the train sits at Edinburgh Waverley station waiting for our Edinburgh passengers to alight. It’s my first trip on the Caledonian Sleeper

The train normally departs London Euston past 23:00 but there were some planned engineering works on the tracks, so our departure time was earlier than normal. By the time I fell asleep around 22:30, we hadn’t really left the greater London area yet. We chugged along for a bit and then stopped for quite some time. I don’t know why, but I was waiting for the excitement of a moving train before going to bed. Sometimes we can be a bit silly, I guess.

I read online that the Club Car can get rowdy and busy at night, and due to limited seating, you should hurry up and rush there to grab a table. Passengers staying in a room have access to the Club Car, with those in Caledonian Doubles having priority access. And as soon as I got settled in my cabin, I went down to the Club Car. Over the next hour, only a handful of people used the Club Car – a lady was dining, two gentlemen were having a drink, and another gentleman was sitting reading on his iPad. Maybe I just boarded a train full of introverts, which is fine by me.

So now that I’ve done the Club Car, it’s time for me to shower and head to bed. Towels are provided in a big pouch hanging on the door.

Although it’s small, I’m grateful for the en-suite bathroom and shower. I didn’t expect the shower pressure to be anything to write home about, and it definitely isn’t. For people thinking about washing their hair, think twice. The water pressure on my train was definitely not strong enough to rinse shampoo out of your hair.

The toilet basin has a big wooden cover with a handle, so you really only lift up the cover when using the toilet. There is a little nook inside that stores the toilet paper, so nothing gets wet when you shower.

Be careful, the lock on the door latch juts out, and maybe I bumped into it while showering.

Regardless of if you have a toilet and shower in your cabin, all cabins include a sink and basin for brushing your teeth and washing your face.

In the cabin itself, the bed made up the majority of the room. My luggage went under the bed, which left me with a small standing area / walkway between the door and the sink. For me, a somewhat clumsy but petite person, I bumped and knocked myself along the walls as I changed into my pajamas.

I dimmed the lights and began to settle in bed, but I quickly got up to grab the eye mask from the complimentary sleep kit and put it on. Various emergency buttons emit light in the cabin, and this gal enjoys complete darkness in sleep.

When my alarm woke me at 04:00 (don’t ask), I had slept better than any overnight journey in memory. Although I remember feeling the train moving in my sleep, it didn’t feel disruptive but rather a gentle lulling. And that brings me to now, 05:30 am, in the Club Car enjoying my bacon roll breakfast by myself.

Don’t let my simple bacon roll with its tongue sticking out dissuade you from choosing a simpler breakfast versus the full Scottish. Sometimes a bacon roll with a smidge of brown sauce is all I need to start my day in Scotland right!

After my breakfast roll, there was plenty of time to hang out in my cabin as we made the final leg of the journey between Edinburgh and Glasgow. The majority of the journey was completed under the cover of night. As dawn was about to break, I opened the window blinds for some light and some views. By then, the countryside was already in the distance, and I was left with urban views to finish off the evening’s journey.

6. Parting Thoughts on my overnight train to Scotland

All in all, I was happier with this train ride than I thought I would be! I’ll be honest that I had been eyeing this overnight train for a long time, but each time I’d see the 2-300+ GBP price tag per room, it would stop me in my tracks. But in reality, I never spent the time to think about how much money I would save with one less hotel night in Glasgow/London. So in the end, for a solo traveler, it isn’t too bad!

The double bed was very luxurious for the train, when you’d normally only have a bunk bed. I don’t think I need the first class Caledonian Double every time, but for my first time, it was a nice splurge.

However, I do think you need to set your expectations for what a “luxury overnight train” should be. In a different time and place, luxury train travel would include caviar, afternoon tea services, and glamour that oozes affluence and class like James Bond. While the Caledonian Sleeper isn’t all that, it’s still very nice and a wonderfully comfortable journey!

Since my first time on the Caledonian Sleeper, I’ve have used this overnight train service a number of times, in both the Club Room (bunk beds) and the Double Room. While the Double Room is definitely more luxurious with the big bed and no second bunk hanging over you, the Club Room is still a very comfortable overnight train experience.

While I’ve heard people complain about the top bunk being hard to access with a moving train, I just have to remind folks that this is indeed a moving train. People with mobility issues should not attempt to mess around with the top bunk, as the train’s motions on the train tracks aren’t guaranteed to be seemless. Think of it as turbulence on the rails, and something you need to be careful of.

Similarly, that also means the train rocks and sways as you sleep as well. Light sleepers may be bothered by this, and while this is still a comfortable journey, it’s definitely not the same as sleeping in your own bed. I just want to manage expectations, because the Caledonian Sleeper is a truly fantastic overnight train.

Also, for those wanting to take advantage of the stunning views of the countryside, be aware that outside of summer months, the nights are dark and long. If you’re only traveling between London and Glasgow / Edinburgh (the Lowlands), expect to arrive in Scotland still under the cover of night. If you’re headed all the way up to the Highlands, you may catch a glimpse of a gorgeous sunrise before you disembark.

Taking the train in the summer with the increased daylight hours really only make the journey more stunning, especially those traveling on the Highland lines up north. You’ll be able to enjoy the beautiful highland landscape with your morning coffee and breakfast.

Whether you opt for a simple seat, a Classic Room (bunk beds, no toilet/shower), a Club Room (bunk beds, with en-suite), or a Double Room (big bed, with en-suite facilities), there is something for everyone’s budget and sensibilities.

And with that, my Caledonian Sleeper review comes to a close. And I bid you adieu!

I hope you found my review of Caledonian Sleeper to be helpful. It truly is the best (and only) sleeper train to the Highlands from London. I’ve included some itinerary suggestions and a detailed frequently asked questions below in case my write up didn’t touch upon some of your questions.

To book the amazing Caledonian Sleeper, visit www.sleeper.scot.

7. Ideas for your Scottish adventure?

Now that you’ve decided on taking the sleeper train to Scotland, let’s plan your Scottish adventure!

• First things first – if you’re traveling to Scotland as an Outlander fan, look no further. I’ve written all about the Outlander filming locations you can visit, with public transpo directions or tours you can take. Step through the stones to Lallybroch or Castle Leoch during your trip!
• In Edinburgh, don’t miss:
  • visiting Holyrood Palace, the Scottish home of the British monarch,
  • get introduced to Scottish food on a delicious food tour;
  • enjoy the National Galleries of Scotland and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
  • take a tour of the Water of Leith and Dean Village (shown above).
• In Glasgow, be sure to check out Glasgow Cathedral, the necropolis, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
  • Be sure to immerse yourself in some whisky, with a visit to Glengoyne Distillery! You’ll be surprised how quickly you got out of the city and into highland heaven!
  • Take a day trip to Oban (seafood capital of Scotland) and Glencoe on a Highland lochs and castles tour!
• In the Highlands and Islands,
  • Need a hotel recommendation for Inverness? How about staying at Ness Walk, a 5 ⭐️ luxury hotel that recently won the Most Romantic Hotel in the UK❣️ I’ll be designing a foodie itinerary for Inverness in collaboration with Ness Walk, so stay tuned for that!
  • Balmoral (and the Cairngorms National Park) is one of my favorite places to go and unwind;
  • set out on the North Coast 500 for some spectacular scenery!
  • go further afield with a day trip to Orkney!
  • Use the Scottish Islands Passport for ideas and to help plan your adventure!
• Last but not least recommendation: here is a carefully curated list of the best seafood in Scotland.

8. FAQ for the Caledonian Sleeper

• Is this the only overnight train in the UK? No, aside from the Caledonian Sleeper, the Night Riviera Sleeper runs overnight train services between London and Cornwall.
• How much luggage can I bring with me? Each guest can bring 3 items of personal luggage on board for free – two suitcases (no bigger than 30cm x 70cm x 90cm / 11.8 in x 27.6 in x 35.4 in) plus one item of hand luggage.
  • If you have larger items, let the on-board teams know and they can store it separately.
  • There is space under the bed for your suitcases. If you are staying in the Club Room or Caledonian Double, do not put your luggage in the en-suite bathroom, because if it falls it can block the door from opening.
• How much is the Caledonian Sleeper family ticket? Family ticket prices depend on how many rooms are required per family, but there will always be a guaranteed bed for all travelers, including children. A quick check showed 2 adults, 2 children in 2 classic rooms, booked as a family ticket cost 450 GBP. But as noted above, prices vary depending on a number of factors. There are a handful of inter-connected rooms available for families.
• Is there a first class on the Caledonian Sleeper? Caledonian Double ticket-holders are considered in first class, which is why they have a big bed, receive the extra amenity kit and have priority seating in the Club Car.
• Is there lounge access before boarding? The guest lounge, similar to an airline’s first class lounge, is a good way to relax before your journey. Different stations have different lounge specs (some include showers, others share lounge space with other train lines, access to some depend on your ticket type). Get more information on the lounge and your access.
• Can I bring furry friends on board? Up to 2 pets can join you on board if you’ve reserved a room. Sorry, for those who booked seats only, your furry friend can’t join you. There is no ticket cost for your furry friend, but there will be an additional 30 GBP cleaning fee per room.
• Can I bring my bicycle on board? Yes you can! Bicycles don’t cost extra, but you will need to reserve a space for it during your booking. (whoops, forgot to? Don’t worry – just contact Guest Services and they will add the bicycle reservation to your booking).
• Technical stuff: Yes, there is Wi-Fi on board, but there are some sections of limited service. In each room and at the comfort seats, there are power outlets (and USB-A ports) for charging small devices.
• Shower, if I don’t have the en-suite: For those traveling in seated coach or class rooms (and do not have an en-suite shower), you can purchase Shower Tokens on board to access showers in Fort William, London Euston, and Inverness after you arrive. Towels come included!
• Left Luggage facilities: If you need to dump your luggage before or after your trip, there are left luggage facilities at London Euston, Glasgow Central, Glasgow Queen Street, Edinburgh Waverley, Inverness and Fort William for a fee.
• Railcard discounts? Certain National Railcard holders may receive discounts on their fare, depending on a few factors. Read up on the Railcard Discounts offered on Caledonian Sleeper.

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you’re a whisky aficionado or a regular reader of my blog, you may have heard of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (affectionately shortened to SMWS). A membership-based whisky club founded in 1983 by Pip Hills, the society is all about celebrating scotch whisky in all its glory. It’s a great place to connect with like-minded whisky enthusiasts, attend tastings and events, and discover new and exciting whiskies. What’s really great about the Society is that it’s not just about the whisky itself; it’s about the culture and the community that has formed around it.

To read more about Pip’s journey with whisky, check out his book, The Founder’s Tale: A Good Idea and a Glass of Malt.

• If you’re thinking about joining SMWS, get the full breakdown of all the membership benefits!
• and, now is the perfect time to join SMWS! Use promo code: MAVERICK40 and get 40% off your annual membership until March 31, 2023. That makes it only 51 GBP!

Without further ado, onto the first release of the 2023 Limited Edition bottlings!

Maverick 40th Anniversary Bottling

This first bottling pays homage to our maverick whisky pioneer, founder Pip Hills, who’s always pushing the boundaries and exploring new frontiers in the world of single malt. This bold and exciting Speyside malt is aged 12 years, and bottled at 50% ABV. The small batch blends doesn’t get assigned a flavour profile, but if we had to, we’d categorize it with Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits!

From a Speyside single malt sleeping in a refill bourbon hogshead, over to a selection of Spanish oak hogsheads (first fill Oloroso and second-fill PX), the result is a dark and delicious blend, and a true celebration of a sherry cask!

SMWS Tasting Notes:

The aromas of freshly waxed, natural marble floors, mosaics and terrazzo tiles were followed by a fruity scent from apricots, peaches and plums, before a cup of Assam tea and fig, apple and raisin bread pudding joined the party…

For the full tasting notes or if you’ve already decided to purchase this bottle (priced nicely at 65 GBP)… ⤵️

My thoughts:

First nose: gorgeously sweet fruits mixed with some tea (I got the waxed marble floors that the experts did on the second nose, but everbody’s different…)

On the palate, I got some apricots with a richness I couldn’t identify, but there was definitely a tartness that cut through the sweetness in a lovely balance. With a drop of water, it mellowed some of the intense richness and I was left with a beautiful dessert.

Honestly, delicious and complex, I personally loved the blending of the Oloroso and PX sherry casks. But was it a wild, unexpected dram that pushed the boundaries like a Maverick? Not quite to that extreme, but I’ll say the SMWS limited releases are off to a roaring start with the Maverick, and I can’t wait to see what the next release holds!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS 40th Anniversary Releases

These special releases are part of Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s 40th anniversary celebration this year. You may have seen their celebrations kicking off on social media, with members from 13 different countries arriving to the Vaults in Leith to experience and create some tasting notes for some of the special releases this year. (HOW FUN!!!). And although it hasn’t been announced yet, the celebrations will reach its peak at The Gathering (held in September), the annual celebration of whisky, community, and good times.

So, until the next release, let’s all raise a glass to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society on its 40th birthday in the wonderful world of whisky. Sláinte!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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