This one-of-a-kind exclusive whisky experience combines the best of both worlds – the delightful taste of Scotch whisky and a comfortable, upscale hotel with all the amenities you could wish for. While I don’t have a whisky bucket list (or any bucket list) per se, a stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery is a fun experience and an absolute must for any whisky fan! Don’t get me wrong – I have a home in a whisky village on a whisky island and I’ve stayed at hotels with famous whisky bars before. But staying on site at a distillery (with a delicious restaurant) was a truly unique and wonderful experience!

1. Whisky Distilleries with Accommodations in Scotland

Before I go about telling you all about my stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel, I’ve done a bit of research on the matter and there are a handful of Scottish distilleries with accommodations that can be rented out. In Scotland, you’ll find:

• Bowmore Distillery has Bowmore Cottages and the Harbour Inn, in the same village, adjacent to the distillery. Some units like the Maltman’s Cottage, were formerly staff cottages;
• Glenmorangie Distillery has Glenmorangie House – a luxury boutique hotel with rooms and cottages, located about 10 miles away from the distillery.
• Ardbeg Distillery has the Seaview Cottage, which is located on distillery grounds in a separate area from production. Currently the website says its not available for booking, so not sure if Ardbeg has any sneaky plans!
• Dornoch Distillery was started on the grounds of the Dornoch Castle Hotel, so it kind of deserves a place on this list… (it’s funny, they market this as one of the only hotels in the UK with a distillery, as opposed to the way I am marketing this post as one of the only distilleries with a hotel! I think it’s an interesting distinction)
• Springbank Distillery in Campbeltown has The Still Guesthouse as part of their 3-day Eat, Sleep, Dram, Repeat retreats. The guesthouse is not onsite, but 3 minutes walk away from Springbank Distillery. I’ve not been, but a whisky writer I follow has, so check out his review!

There are a few lists online that would also include whisky hotels in Scotland like:

• the Jura Distillery / the Jura Hotel, which is next door. But, the hotel isn’t owned by the same company as the distillery, so just being next door doesn’t count!
• the Craigellachie Hotel in Aberlour (Speyside) or the Fife Arms in Braemar – both are considered as a whisky tasting hotel with vast and memorable whisky bars. So does that make them a whisky hotel in Scotland? Maybe… but also, maybe not.

All of the above would be great for any whisky tasting weekend breaks. However, all of my research has led me to this conclusion:

Of all the Scottish distilleries with accommodations, the Isle of Raasay Distillery is the only whisky distillery with a hotel on site in Scotland. You can walk from your room over to the production side for your tour without needing to brave temperamental Scottish weather. The restaurant and bar (with Raasay whisky of course!) are just located downstairs from your room.

This was confirmed by the Isle of Raasay Distillery, as well!

2. Introducing the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

The Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is housed in Borodale House, a former Victorian villa on Raasay. The hotel includes six en-suite rooms, a restaurant, and a bar and lounge to enjoy. Of course, Borodale House is also home to the Isle of Raasay Distillery (opened in 2017) and houses its 1 spirit still and 1 wash still. Currently, this yields 188,000 liters per annum of peated and unpeated spirit annually, so not a very big operation! In their signature single malt release, Isle of Raasay whisky is lightly peated with rich dark fruit flavors and bottled on site at 46.4% ABV.

The Borodale House Restaurant, available to overnight guests and visitors alike, sources its produce as locally as it can, with their culinary highlights including Raasay venison and fresh seafood from its shores. The dining room has uninterrupted views of the Cuillin Mountains over on Skye, so look forward to stunning views over breakfast and dinner!

Separating the hotel section and production is the bar and tasting area, with a lush living wall leading you into production, marking the boundaries. The bar serves Isle of Raasay whiskies and gin, as well as beer from Cuillin Brewery. When I visited, the only food option at the bar was the charcuterie platter, but it seems they’ve expanded to a full (and quite delicious looking) bar menu. From a quick inspection of the menu online, I spotted oysters, fried squid, langoustines and venison burgers. All local to Raasay or Skye, no doubt.

For those staying at the hotel, there is also a resident’s lounge for you to enjoy a quiet dram. It’s perfect for an after dinner drink before retiring to your room upstairs.

Let’s not forget about the whisky at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Whisky is the main reason you’re here, is it not? Guests to the hotel get a complimentary distillery tour for their stay. You’ll get one dram (single cask release) or a gin for the normal tour. For those on the Winter Whisky Retreat, you get upgraded to Whisky, Gin, and Chocolate Tour and Tasting. You’ll get the Raasay Single Malt, a single cask release, and the gin to pair with chocolates from the Glenshiel Chocolate Company.

For those super whisky nerds, there is a variety of other tours and tastings you can take. The first two of these include the “normal production tour” plus an extra!

• Distillery and Bottling Warehouse Tour – You’ll truly get to witness the whole production cycle through to bottling, and sample 2 Raasay drams and the gin.

• Dunnage Cask Warehouse Tour – Pop behind the scenes into the dunnage warehouse, with an exclusive tasting of their Na Sia range, straight from the cask! After 6 cask strength whiskies, you’ll be glad you’re staying at the hotel!

• Cask Strength Tasting – a tasting featuring the Na Sia range, 6 whiskies both peated and unpeated, at cask strength no less!

Explore Isle of Raasay whiskies

3. My Stay at a Whisky Distillery – the Room

I visited the Isle of Raasay Distillery and stayed as part of their Winter Whisky Retreat promotion. Now for 280 GBP per room, the package included the following for two persons:

• accommodation in one of their luxury rooms
• welcome drink in the lounge (Isle of Raasay G&T or dram)
• whisky production tour with whisky and gin tasting, paired with chocolate
• pre-dinner cocktail and canape
• 3-course tasting menu, with mountain views of Skye
• Scottish breakfast in the morning.

The 2023/2024 Winter Whisky Retreat Promotion is valid from November 1, 2023 to March 31, 2024

Even for one person, it was a great deal. And so when my travel plans were derailed and I suddenly found myself with an extra day in the north, I jumped on it and made a slight detour to Raasay!

For me, it was a Small Double Room, with a partial Cuillin view. The room was draped in tweed, wool, and extremely cozy furnishings. Although it was cold and there was snow on the mountains in the distance, the room was so comfortable and warm!

In terms of amenities, there was a TV on the wall, a tea and coffee tray with Raasay Gin and Raspberry shortbread biscuits from Isle of Skye Baking Co expertly stationed at the window reading nook, and of course, a bottle of Isle of Raasay single malt whisky, just in case! The coffee comes from Caora Dhubh, a local Skye coffee roaster, and is a welcome addition to the cozy room.

The bathroom was petite, but included a lush terry cloth robe, the perfect rain shower and handmade soap from Isle of Skye Soap Co.

Unlike other hotels, do note that the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is not staffed after hours. There is of course emergency phone numbers should you require assistance in the evening hours.

4. Food and Drink at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

In my humble opinion, food can make or break any hotel stay… which is why I’m so pleased that the food at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is absolutely delicious, and I’m sure there is more excitement to come from the kitchen there!

The Borodale House Restaurant offers lunch and dinner to the public and guests alike, and for those staying at the hotel, it’s also where you’ll have breakfast. For me, it was a full Scottish with locally sourced ingredients, that included haggis, black pudding, bacon, egg, mushrooms, and a tattie scone.

Dinner was a slightly more lavish affair, as you do, with a 3-course tasting menu included in the Winter Retreat package.

For me, it was:

• Torched Burrata with beetroot, walnut and shallots – (a Lannie rule in life, always get the burrata!)
• Parmesan Gnocchi with mushroom, thyme, cherry tomatoes, and hazelnut
• Whipped Chocolate Delice with Raasay single malt (of course!), toasted nuts, and vanilla.

There are also drams for you to order to wrap up the meal, choosing from:

• Isle of Raasay Single Malt
• Distillery Exclusive Sherry Release
• Na Sia Single Cask Series
• Isle of Raasay Inaugural Release

A really wonderful 3-course meal, a Distillery Exclusive dram in the resident’s lounge, and that’s me sorted for the evening!

5. Things to do on Raasay

Despite being a small island, there are a number of things to do during your stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel. Personally, Raasay is one of those islands that I bask in its quiet moments and lush nature. My springtime walks around Raasay were sunny and brisk, filled with fairytale-like melodic birdsong. If I weren’t in my big puffy coat, with my beanie and wool scarf, I’d practically be Aurora singing and dancing with animals in the forest. (Sleeping Beauty reference anyone?)

– Explore Inverarish (Gaelic: Inbhir Àrais)

It didn’t take me long to walk from the distillery to Inverarish, the main settlement on Raasay. The walk was quiet, except for the birds chirping loudly. It was a brisk and bright spring day, with views of the Cuillin Mountains on Skye for most of the walk. I later learned that homes in the village don’t have full addresses, but rather are just referred to by number, i.e. “My grandparents live in 26,” etc. Not having full addresses is something an American can’t comprehend, but it seems to work on the wee isle of Raasay.

Be sure to stop by the Community Store for snacks and souvenirs, as well as the Raasay Gallery for local crafts.

– Be charmed at the Raasay Walled Garden

One of the more spectacular things about Raasay is its small, quiet woodland feel. A morning stroll out over to Raasay House walled garden is one place to enjoy the greenery and birdsong. Take advantage of the picnic tables located in the garden for a quiet moment. In the summer months, there is a fresh produce and flower honesty stall for all your local grows!

– Take a hike

If the weather is nice, hike up to Dun Caan, Raasay’s highest point (443 meters) and Raasay’s only extinct volcano. Upgrade to AllTrails+ before you head out, for up to date weather and ground conditions. This would have been useful during my hike up there last summer, when the weather was better. The wind raged so aggressively that we gave up part way through!

– Find the Mermaids and take a selfie

There are a pair of mermaids at the Battery overlooking the pier where the ferry arrives, which could be overlooked if you’re not paying attention. It’s a nice welcome which wasn’t really intended as such. According to local stories, the mermaids were built in the 1840s, intended to be placed along the entryway to Raasay House. Either they were to heavy to be moved along the road, or too ugly (as one story goes), they were left at the Battery at Clachan.

You’ll have to excuse the awkward angle of the selfie!

– Calum’s Road

Although I haven’t made it to the north of Raasay, I would highly recommend a little road trip up to the northern side of the island for a drive on Calum’s Road. Following the Highland Clearances in the 1800s, many of the residents of Raasay lived in the north of the island, which made access to the ferry port connection to Skye in the south very challenging.

Locals had been petitioning the council to build a road connecting Arnish in the north to the rest of Raasay to no avail. From the days of petitioning to when Calum finally took matters into his own hands, the population of the northern part of Raasay had declined from 100 to 2, leaving only Calum and his wife.

Finally, in the 1960s, one spring morning, Calum MacLeod packed a pick, an axe, a shovel, and his lunch box into his wheelbarrow, and began to slowly carve out his own road. He continued to do so for the next 20 years and eventually (and miraculously), built out Calum’s Road. The original motivation for the road was to make the journey easier for Calum’s daughter, who was away to school on Skye. But really, it served as a stunning example of the ingenuity and determination of locals in small communities, when the world seemed to have moved on or forgotten.

This is probably the top of my next visit to Raasay, to pay tribute to such an incredible spirit and determination!

If you’re looking for more ideas, there’s also:

• a wildlife cruise of the Sound of Raasay, where you may see puffins, dolphins, whales, sea eagles, orcas and more!
• The Raasay House – the other hotel on Raasay! Not only are there rooms to stay in, but also a delightful restaurant for lunch and dinner. They also have a variety of outdoor activities that you can arrange there, including archery, loch kayaking and sailing!
• or, just coorie up in your room or in the residents lounge with a dram and a book and call it a day!

6. Parting Thoughts on my stay at the Isle of Raasay Whisky Hotel

It may sound silly as a unique selling point – going to a whisky distillery for a tour and tasting, and then wandering up to your lovely, comfortable room for a rest and maybe a nap, but it is truly wonderful. Hands up if you’ve ever done a whisky tour or tasting and immediately wanted a nap afterwards! The winter whisky retreat fulfills that requirement!

Not only that, but the bar downstairs has an incredible view of the mountains for your cocktails and sundowner. Enjoy the view with your free pre-dinner drinks, before moseying over to the restaurant for a delicious 3-course tasting menu made with local produce. Chef’s kiss perfect!

For whisky fans, this is a lovely treat with wonderful hospitality and delicious food. Plus, Raasay is more of a niche whisky, not super well known, so it’s great to explore new whiskies and expressions.

Overall, it was a really fun stay that had everything that I look for in a mini-break in Scotland. Especially during the dark winter months, going on this winter whisky retreat was such a treat! Delicious food, incredible whisky, a charming small island to explore, and a warm and cozy atmosphere. In all honesty, what more could you ask for? It’s the perfect thing to break you out of the winter blues!

For more information on booking a winter whisky retreat to stay at the Raasay whisky distillery, visit the Raasay Whisky hotel website.

Until your next whisky adventure, I bid you adieu!

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7. How to get to the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Arriving to Raasay requires a short 25 minute ferry from Sconser (Isle of Skye) on CalMac Ferries. Don’t worry, you don’t need to book anything in advance, as this service is a Turn up and Go. An adult return ticket is 4.20 GBP, and to add your car, it’s an additional 14 GBP.

The distillery is located 0.4 miles from the ferry port, an easy 8 minute walk if you’re coming over on foot.

For those without a car, Raasay can be reached by train, then bus, then ferry. Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, would be your best starting point. The easiest way would be:

• Arrive to Inverness via Scotrail;
  • Glasgow to Inverness by train takes about 3+ hours, and costs 13.50 GBP one way, when bought in advance;
  • Edinburgh to Inverness by train also takes about 3 hours, and costs 19.80 GBP one way, when bought in advance.
  • Or, if you’re coming from London, consider taking the overnight sleeper train to arrive in Inverness around 8:45 am! (This does not have great connections to the bus, which leaves at 8:30 am, but at least I’m giving you options!)
• Connect to Sconser via Citylink bus 917 from Inverness. Check the times, as there are a few nonstop services with 0 changes, so be sure to book those. If you book a return ticket in advance, it costs 39.80 GBP, the same cost as a single ticket! (💡Expert tip)
• After you arrive to Sconser, it’s just a quick 25 minute ferry ride and a 10 minute walk to the distillery!

And there you have it, getting to Raasay on public transportation! Easy peasy!

– Hotel recommendations in Inverness

If you need a luxury hotel in Inverness to hang your hat for the evening before setting off toward Raasay, I can definitely recommend:

• Ness Walk – a 5-star luxury hotel on the banks of the River Ness

• or the Kingsmills Hotel – a 4-star luxury spa hotel, overlooking the Inverness Golf Club.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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Here is a little slow travel post on spending a few days on the Isle of Iona.

1. Brief Introduction to the Isle of Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. Iona is a small island, only about 1 mile wide by 3 miles long, and is home to about 130 permanent residents. For visitors, vehicles aren’t allowed onto the island, so there’s an unspoken charm that comes with that. When you arrive to Iona via the short 10 minute ferry from Mull, you’ll be directly in “the village”, Baile Mòr, which is the main settlement. But since it’s the only settlement on Iona, everyone just calls it the village.

Iona has been inhabited since 6000 BC and increased in popularity after St. Columba came to Iona in 563 AD following his exile from Ireland. Saint Columba is known for bringing Christianity to Scotland and subsequently, Iona is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity. Following Columba’s arrival to Iona, he founded the Iona Abbey which still stands as a place of worship to this day. During his lifetime, Columba was known to perform various miracles, such as healing people or expelling evil spirits. I think it’s for this reason people come to Iona, hoping for a miracle, hoping to be healed.

If legends are to be believed, Columba had seen the Loch Ness Monster back in 565, and banished the great “water beast” to the depths of the River Ness.

Many people come to Iona to visit Iona Abbey and bask in the magic and miracles that once imbued St. Columba and his followers. To this day, people still make the pilgrimage to Iona out of hope or desperation seeking some sort of comfort. It was that search for hope and comfort that brought me to Iona the first time.

2. Day trip to Iona vs. a few days on Iona

Since my first visit to Iona, I’ve returned many times and have always stayed a few days each time. Having chatted with many visitors there, so many people feel the pull of Iona and keep returning over the years or even decades. I guess I’m now one of those people.

Unfortunately, due to travel itineraries and schedules, most people only do a day trip over to Iona. If you have time or enjoy slow travel, I would highly recommend considering Iona as a stop versus a day trip, just because most of the magic happens without the day tripping crowds.

During the day, the island heaves with day trippers, crowding into the abbey or filling the puffin tour boats (the puffins nest on nearby Staffa between April to August). Around 4 pm, the queue for the ferry back to Mull extends past the pier and basically into the village. That’s usually when I arrive, when all of the day trippers leave. The late afternoon ferry to Iona on the other hand, in time for hotel check in, barely has a handful of people, if that.

The experience you’d have with a day trip to Iona would be significantly different than if you stayed a few days. With that said, because Iona is small and you’ll go everywhere on foot, you can still have a lovely few hours on Iona. It’s just not the same.

Staying for a few days of slow travel isn’t always feasible, consider a small group tour to Iona, including the Isle of Mull:

• 3-day Mull and Iona trip from Glasgow
• 4-day Mull, Iona and West Highlands from Edinburgh

Or, perhaps looking for a change in your job is a way to fully embrace slow travel. With Jooble, explore remote opportunities for the flexibility to slow your travel down. https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-work-from-home

3. 5 Things to do on Iona

Given that Iona is a small island, there are only a handful of things to do. Most center around the Abbey and St. Columba’s connection with the island. Additionally, since only resident vehicles are allowed on the island, get your walking shoes out – you’ll explore everywhere by foot!

– Stroll through the Iona Nunnery

Between the village and on the way to the Abbey, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, which was founded sometime in the early 1200s. The nunnery remained as one of two Augustinian monasteries for women in Scotland and is still the most complete medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. Following the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and left to ruin.

The Iona Nunnery is a good place for a quiet stroll, possibly accompanied with a freshly fried rhubarb donut from Ailidh Loves Pizza, which is around the corner.

– Take a tour and attend Church Service at the Iona Abbey

A visit to Iona is nothing without taking a tour of the Iona Abbey, a Benedictine abbey, and hearing the story of how the abbey came to be. Entry tickets (10 GBP for adults) to the abbey include an audio guide (or an actual guide at certain times), entry to the museum, and St. Oran’s chapel and the nearby graveyard – the burial place of old Scottish kings. Its a wonderful tour and really interesting to hear about the founding of the abbey to the viking raids, to the changes that have been made to the structure since its inception.

You can attend Sunday service at Iona Abbey (or evening service) even as non-members of the church. There have been a few church services that I’ve attended around the world that have moved me, and the Sunday Service at Iona Abbey was one of them. If you’re having a moment in life, and just need a bit of extra positivity, the church service at Iona Abbey may be exactly what you need. With a friendly hello and “peace be upon you” from your neighbor, it serves only to warm your heart and spirit.

Attending the Cook Islands Christian Church at the other end of the world and Saint Augustine Catholic Church in New Orleans have been special and moving church services that I’ve attended in my life.

Book of Kells connection to Iona

It’s been said that the Book of Kells was written in Iona and transported back to Ireland for safekeeping following a Viking raid on Iona in 806. The Book of Kells (sometimes known as the Book of Columba), a 9th century illustrated manuscript of the Book of Gospels, in Latin, was kept at the Kells Monastery (Ireland) from then until the 1650s when it was sent to Dublin. Since 1661, it’s been housed at Dublin’s Trinity College. Whether the Book of Kells was written and illustrated in Iona isn’t completely known, but some connection between Iona and the Book of Kells is known.

For both religious and non-religious, the visiting the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College in Dublin is an absolute must when in Ireland – the details are exquisite.

Photos courtesy of Trinity College Dublin

– Search for Eternal Youth at the highest point on Iona

Grab your hiking boots, and head up to the highest point on Iona, Dùn Ì (prounounced dun-ee). It’s only a 101 meter (331 feet) scramble up, but from there, you can see the entire island, and maybe even the lighthouse on Tiree on a clear day. You know you’ve made it to the top when you reach the cairn. Be sure to find the Well of Eternal Youth and bathe your face in it. Standing at the cairn and facing north, head down the slope, towards a cleft in the rocks. Eternal youth awaits you!

Note: the entrance to Dun-I is near the pods. If you’re walking (on the one road), you’ll see a sign that says “NOT” the entrance to Dun-I. (love that). The entrance is basically the next gate you encounter. It’s a counterintuitive note, but will make total sense when you are there.

– Find Columba’s tears in Columba’s Bay

Columba’s tears, also known as mermaid tears, are found on the rocky shores from the hike to the south of the island (trail map). Iona green serpentine marble, a light green, translucent little pebble, can be found on the south side of Iona at St. Columba’s Bay or the old Marble Quarry. In the photo below, I think it’s the lightest color pebble. That day, I was just picking up all small green pebbles in order to figure out which one was a tear later.

L: St. Columba’s Bay on Iona
R: A handful of pebbles, the lightest one should be Columba’s tear

Superstitious travelers carry Columba’s tears with them in their pocket, as its said to prevent against drowning.

If you’re lucky enough to find two Columba’s tears, one represents something negative to leave behind (and is thrown into the sea), and the other is for you to take home and remember your new beginning or intended commitment.

– Bask in the sunshine, hide in the rain

• Explore the beaches – Bay at the Back of the Ocean on the west coast and White Beach on the northern tip of Iona are both spectacular and secluded with lush, fine sandy beaches. St. Columba’s Bay in the south is a pebble beach with Columba’s tears hidden among the stones. But give the whole island a wander, there are several beaches that you just stumble upon!
• Iona Golf Course – pick up your scorecard for 1 GBP at the local post office, and then walk 30 minutes to an incredibly remote golf course, maintained by grazing cattle and sheep, with the wild sea as a backdrop. 18 holes with an audience of sheep watching!
• OR, if it’s puffin season (April to August) go on a puffin tour to nearby Staffa! Staffa Tours picks you up directly from the Iona pier and heads over to Fingal’s Cave and the puffin colonies on uninhabited Staffa.

4. Food on Iona

Being a small island, there’s only a handful of places to eat on Iona. It might surprise you that the food is actually phenomenal! I’ll break it down for you:

– Argyll Hotel

Located just off the pier, the Argyll Hotel is a favorite of mine, not only to stay on Iona, but to eat as well! Gorgeously fresh, locally sourced and grown food, with a cozy, warm vibe. The shortcut from the hotel toward the abbey includes a wander by the Argyll Hotel’s garden, which supplies the hotel with locally grown produce. Meals at the Argyll Hotel can be taken in the conservatory, with a beautiful view overlooking Mull and the Sound of Iona.

What is this delicious delight to my left? Pan seared Iona hogget loin, roast garden potatoes, samphire, hogget & wine ragout, rhubarb jus & crispy capers. I mean… absolutely exquisite!

So many incredible chefs began at the Argyll Hotel in Iona – Pam Brunton from Inver, for one, and Carla Lamont from Ninth Wave, another. Both incredible chefs who honor sustainability and locally grown produce in their creativity. And both incredible destination restaurants worth visiting!

– St. Columba’s Hotel

St. Columba’s Hotel is the other hotel and restaurant on Iona that packs an incredible punch! I haven’t stayed here, but I have had a few delicious meals here. When the sun is shining, the picnic tables in the garden are perfect for a relaxing beer! You won’t be able to miss the St. Columba Hotel Gardens on your way to the abbey, which provides locally grown produce to the hotel and restaurant.

Next door is St. Columba’s Larder, a cute little shop with snacks, gifts, teas, coffees and cakes.

– The Rookery Cafe

Next to the Iona Heritage Center (worth a wee wander into!), the Rookery Cafe is a wonderful addition the Iona food scene. It’s a perfect lunch spot for sandwiches and toasties, and delectable dessert treats to enjoy outside in the garden, on its many picnic tables.

The Rookery Cafe is opened during the day, Monday – Saturday. Being an island business, please check their social media for up to date hours and specials.

– Other food options

• Ailidh Loves Pizza: This is a brand new pizza and donut shop that I follow on social media and drool after. Last time I visited, they were only doing donuts (and of course, I got one) but their pizzas and flatbreads (with seafood!) look incredible for next time!
• The Martyr’s Bay – Local cafeteria and diner – your place to get a chippy on Iona.
• Iona Seafood – locally caught and landed crabs, lobsters, and other seafood. if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to order some local seafood to enjoy! pick up, where else? at the pier!
• Iona Craft Shop – this is a super cute craft and gift shop, which also sells coffees and cappuccinos! Pop by and browse the local wares while waiting for your latte.

Other food options across the way in Fionnpfort:

Although the next two are not located on Iona, but rather in Fionnpfort (where you got the ferry to Iona), they get a special mention regardless.

• The Creel Seafood Shack – Regularly voted Best Seafood in Scotland, this little shack is perfect for your black pudding and scallop roll before you board the ferry. Or, your seafood platter on a sunny day. (required to be ordered 24 hours in advance). Don’t forget to add a lush order of chips (fries)!
  • If seafood is your jam, the Creel Seafood Shack makes an appearance on my Best Seafood in Scotland list.

• The Ninth Wave – an exquisite lunch treat from Head Chef Carla Lamont and her husband Johnny, that they deem as “hedonism on a plate.” The Ninth Wave uses seafood caught by Johnny and herbs and produce they grow in their garden. It’s a small dining area, but everyone is served each of the courses at the same time. Carla and Johnny explain the course to the diners in kind of an open forum. It’s casual and relaxed for such an incredible dining experience – one that I hope to revisit again in my coming travels!

5. Parting Thoughts on a slow travel trip to Iona

Iona is truly a special place, and once you’ve been entangled in its magic, you’ll keep coming back. Despite being an extremely small island, the island and its charms tend to have a mesmerizing effect. I’m not sure if you’d get that same feeling during a day trip with other tourists and travelers, but if that’s your entry point into Iona, then far be it for me to deny you that initial feeling!

Just a side note: many people visit Iona as it appears to sit on a ley line. Ley lines are supposed lines that connect multiple prehistoric or ancient sites, often with a certain kind of energy or paranormal phenomena. The ley lines connect Iona with other prehistoric sites in Scotland, including the Callanish Standing Stones on Lewis and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney. Whether you believe or not, these sites are special. But is it the secret source of Iona’s magic? Who knows.

But what I can say is, a slow travel trip to Iona is rejuvenating to one’s soul. Slow down, breathe in the fresh air, laugh and dance in the rain, and eat great food. What else is there in life?

Before I close, I will leave you with an expert tip for your trip to Iona. I make a joke that no matter what, even if it’s sunny and the weather isn’t forecasted to rain, I always get caught in a mass downpour. Don’t worry, the island is small, so you’re never technically that far away from shelter. For me, the sudden downpour always invokes a laughing fit, which is the right kinda attitude for a place like Iona.

If you’re bouncing around Scotland in addition to Iona, I’d definitely recommend some Hunter wellies (or wellington boots for those who want to be a bit more formal), which are waterproof and perfect for sloshing around in the rain. They even have insulated wellies if you normally get cold feet! Trust me, you’ll want to prepare for rainy days in Scotland!

Until next time, dear readers, slow down and look for the magic in life!

6. How to get to Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. To get to Iona from mainland Scotland, you’ll take two ferries with a drive or bus ride in between.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day. Book in advance.
  • Passenger cost: 3.90 GBP (single) / 7.80 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: 14.70 GBP (single) / 29.40 GBP (return)
• Step 3: Drive 1 hour across the Ross of Mull to Fionnpfort or take Bus 96/496 from Craignure to Fionnpfort.
  • (sorry! I tried to get a cost for the bus, but all I could find was that there is an 18 GBP Mull day pass. surely you can buy single tickets from Craignure to Fionnpfort, I just don’t know how much that costs!)
• Step 4: Fionnpfort to Iona ferry, also on CalMac Ferries (10 minute sailing). With multiple sailings per day during high season. This sailing is a turn up and go, so you pay on board.
  • Passenger cost: 1.85 GBP (single) / 3.70 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: -N/A- remember, no cars on the island for tourists!

Fionnpfort is prounounced FINNA-firt

If you’re driving, you will have to leave your car in Fionnpfort, as only resident vehicles are allowed on Iona. You can either pay for parking directly at the pier or, a short walk away (300 meters), there is a free car park. As you drive through Fionnpfort, you’ll see a sign to turn left for a free car park. I’d suggest that instead of the paid parking. It’s about a 7 minute walk to the pier. Since the ferries more or less go back and forth throughout the day, take the extra 7 minutes for free parking.

If you’d like to stay on Iona, in addition to the two hotels (Argyll Hotel and St. Columba’s Hotel) there are also campsites, pods, self catering houses and B&Bs available.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

• The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
• In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

• Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
• Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
• Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

1. The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
2. Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
3. Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
4. Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
5. Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
6. Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

• Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
• Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
• The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
• There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

• waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
• waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
• waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • Browse ScotRail options to Oban
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
• Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
  • Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
• Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

• Link
• Mail
• Instagram
• Facebook

3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

As luck would have it, I met a group of foodies earlier this year from Taste of Shetland – the area’s regional food and drink organization. If you can imagine a group of foodies laughing and giggling over food, that was us. Since then, I have been planning a trip to Shetland to visit this unsung food destination to coincide with their annual Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival (held this year on October 22 – 23, 2022). Through the Food & Drink Festival, I reconnected with my friends and made new ones who also love food in Shetland! We spent countless hours talking (and eating) none other than Shetland’s finest produce.

L: Shetland food festival 2022 groupies, plus Chef Nick Nairn;
R: the placemat at No. 88 in Lerwick, showing the best example of proximity of suppliers I’ve ever witnessed.

During most of my stay in Shetland, I was volunteering at the festival, meaning that I only managed to nip away to try a few restaurants while there. In reality, that’s ok – because the food experience in Shetland is not limited to restaurants. Food culture is everywhere!

Outside the festival, the warmth of Shetland hospitality was never far from food (or family at that). Whether it was homemade dinners with Mary and her visiting family at Hayhoull Bed and Breakfast in Bigton, or chatting with Marian Armitage in Scatness over toasty beremeal bannocks fresh oot the oven with rhubarb jam, homemade food was always front and center, along with that jovial warmth Shetlanders seem to exude.

Before I continue, allow me to wax poetic about food tourism for a minute. You all may know that I enjoy experiencing a place through its food traditions. Oftentimes one of the first thing I do when visiting a new place, is go on a food tour. In other food tours I’ve taken, you bounce around a place eating from restaurants, hearing stories of the place and its food, and (maybe) visiting a food producer or a producer’s shop (like a cheesemaker or a cheese shop), sampling foods along the way. While there are no food tours in Shetland, this Scotland foodie was determined to experience Shetland with food at its forefront.

The World Food Travel Association defines food tourism as,

“the act of traveling for a taste of place in order to get a sense of place.”

And that’s exactly what I was looking for in Shetland.

Below is a short collection of 4 peerie (little) stories, each about a person in Shetland who have a direct impact on Shetland food, and have influenced my perception of food culture.

1. Respect and affection for the food

During the Taste of Shetland Food and Drink Festival, I was fortunate to attend a “lamb boning” Masterclass with Lauraine Manson from Shetland’s abbatoir (or slaughterhouse). While it was called lamb boning, what it really showcased was how to utilize a single lamb to feed a village.

Lauraine is tall and dressed in all black, besides the pop of color of her red fedora. We were in a red colored room, so actually, she matches the decor. She walked in with a lamb shaped cloth sack slung over her shoulder. As she took us through her life’s experience, Lauraine made thoughtful incisions and intentional cuts to the carcass. Each cut is done with care and respect for the animal whose body she works on.

She speaks a lot about her respect for the animals. You’ll probably never find her with a cleaver hacking away at anything. It’s disrespectful, she reminds us. Those animals gave their lives for your meal – we need to respect that.

Following the deboning, the shape of the carcass no longer resembles an animal, now closer to the meat we are used to handling.

With the meat carefully splayed over the table, Shetland-native and food writer Marian Armitage steps up. Armed with a simple concoction of couscous, breadcrumbs, apricots and parsley, Marian spreads the stuffing over the lamb. “There’s no accurate quantity [for the stuffing],” Marian says, and Lauraine agrees that there’s no need for that. But don’t forget a twist of the pepper grinder, some of Shetland’s very own sea salt, and maybe some extra cumin for good measure. With a ball of twine, Lauraine and Marian come together to tightly roll the lamb and tie it, ready to roast.

Lamb would have been prepared that way for large family gatherings or village weddings. Done this way, everyone would get a bit of meat, and the stuffing (infused with all the flavors from the lamb) would take care of the rest.

Unfortunately, they didn’t cook the lamb at the food and drink festival. Earlier in the year, Lauraine and Marian did the demonstration (and cooked the lamb) for the 2022 Royal Highland Show. And I bet it smelled and tasted like no other!

2. Food tourism in Shetland – a visit to Garths Croft Bressay

Through my research on food tourism in Shetland, I found Garth’s Croft – a sustainable agricultural holding, run by Chris Dyer, focusing on traditional and different heritage breeds of sheep, pigs and poultry. Shortlisted for the 2022 Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for Food Tourism, Chris offers tours of his croft and around local Bressay. He also offers a variety of bespoke tours focusing on history and heritage of the surrounding areas.

Bressay is located a quick 7 minute ferry from the Lerwick pier on Mainland Shetland.

Most of the visitors to Garth’s Croft are “fiber community” enthusiasts – people who love wool and knitting.  Thanks to the internet, the undyed fleeces from his heritage Shetland sheep are sent from one far corner of the world to another.  The magic of the internet also gives Chris an avenue to offer Zoom tours of the croft.  It seems to work well, considering Shetland’s remote location and the effort involved in visiting.

I don’t think Chris sees himself as being part of “food tourism”. I can see the direct connection funnily enough, but as a trained archaeologist and historian who runs a sustainable agricultural holding… he needs a little convincing. I think that’s part of his humility though, for being recognized and nominated in a tourism category he never saw himself as part of.

Food tourism, agritourism, ecotourism – call it what you want. At the end of the day, my experience with Chris from Garth’s Croft is hands down one of the best tourism experiences I’ve ever had.

– Lannie, extremely opinionated travel extraordinaire

Croft is not a word that gets used often outside of Scotland, and to be fair, I wasn’t entirely sure about the nuances of what a croft includes. A “croft” is defined by the Oxford dictionary as:

• a small rented farm, especially one in Scotland,
• comprising a plot of arable land attached to a house (the croft house), and
• with a right of pasturage held in common with other such farms.

Traditionally, crofting brings us back to subsistence farming – raising livestock and growing crops intended to feed you and your family, normally without surplus. Nowadays, most crofters aren’t practicing subsistence farming only. That being said, Chris only raises enough livestock that he himself can manage. Turns out it’s a lot, but still.

The sheep interrupt us to grab a cuddle from Chris, or so it seems. In actuality, Dinky is coming around to eat some of the feed Chris has in his hands. Dinky, who was the runt of the litter, is “special”, Chris says, originally needing to be bottle fed at birth. It’s amusing watching the colorful sheep playfully vying for his attention. I watch in silence, smiling at the incredible detail I just witnessed – Chris giving Dinky a little affectionate scratch on the head, as Dinky eagerly eats everything out of his other hand.

When Chris began crofting, his motivation had less to do with raising sheep to feed and clothe the masses and more with bringing the heritage of the area back to the forefront. To explain, what drives Chris is that deep connection to the land. For the archaeologist and historian, it’s less about what breeds can maximize your yields at the sheep sales, but more – what breeds are traditional to this land? What breeds can we bring back to this land?

And so he set out repurposing his croft, as a tribute to the old ways, while blending it with new, sustainable practices. Building the first drystone square enclosure on Shetland in 1,000 years, Chris sectioned off a “plantiecrub” or a traditional kale yard next to the croft house. Yes, Chris is actually one of very few drystone masons on Shetland as well, mending the walls that snake around Bressay, neighboring Noss, and mainland Shetland.

Watch this video on YouTube.

(This is a great croft tour video on YouTube that Chris made.
Let’s just blame Shetland’s weather for me not taking as many photos or videos that day I was in Bressay.)

Back to the kale yard.  Historically, that’s what it did – it grew kale, potatoes (taaties / tatties), and other root vegetables.  Kale has been in Shetland since, at least, the 17^th century.  The drystone walls provide some cover to Shetland’s harsh weathers – but that’s ok, kale seems to thrive in the tumultuous weather. Back in the day, the kale would be in the enclosure with the family’s own “hoose taaties”.  Hoose taaties are… potatoes for the “hoose” (house).

Chris is proud that the croft can thrive with zero artificial fertilizer, preferring to use a variety of heritage pigs to naturally plow and fertizile plots of land to render it arable. To supplement the kale yard and to provide weather cover for other crops, there is the polycrub greenhouse – made from recycled salmon cages.  Inside, the polycrub houses the croft’s singular apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, along with other greens and produce hidden away from Shetland’s harsh weather. I say singular fruit trees, because that’s part of Chris’ mentality, isn’t it?  He doesn’t need an orchard full of apple trees, the one is enough to feed him and his family, with some left for the Bressay community.

Garth’s Croft is an exciting blend of old and new, going back to the days before globalization and mass production, using the land to feed and clothe your family unit.  For us travelers and dreamers, a visit to Garth’s Croft makes us ponder our own life and its excesses. While few of us will do what Chris did, and move to a remote corner of the world to live off the land, there is a genuine admiration and awe of those who do.  But to be able to not only live, but thrive in such an environment – it’s an extraordinary thing and takes an extraordinary person to do so.

To bring it back to food and food tourism and Garth’s Croft…  While I haven’t outright said just yet, you as my reader must know that all the livestock in the world will end up on someone’s table at some point in time. This is true in both mass production and small scale subsistence farming. And while we are looking at beautiful heritage sheep with colorful wool or pigs happily burrowing for worms, their purpose in the end is to feed us.

Although I never tasted any of the various meat products or fresh produce from Garth’s Croft, I have a feeling that all the thoughtful care and attention Chris pays would certainly resonate in the end-product. Have you heard the myth of Kobe beef in Japan? With its world famous, gorgeously marbled meats, true or not, the cows are said to regularly listen to Mozart and given massages. While the sheep from Garth’s Croft don’t listen to Mozart (that I know of!) and unfortunately get subjected to somewhat miserable Shetland weather, they appear to have an extremely fun-loving and sustainable environment to live in. 

The Shetland agricultural community thrives on sheep. Whether that’s for Shetland’s thick “ganseys” (sweaters or jumpers for the non-Shetland speakers), to sell to mainland farmers, or for purchase and slaughter in Shetland, the agricultural community resolves around sheep and their sales. Lamb, born in the spring, take about 6 months to grow and mature, and are ready by the fall.

The sheep sales in Shetland run between August to November, from 2-3 times a week. 3-4,000 sheep are sold each time, with Chris and Lauraine being critical components to and daily fixtures at the sales. The sheep sales are the lifeblood of the agricultural community in Shetland. Chris invited me to one of the sales, and I would have loved to attend if I weren’t so busy with the festival. But, always save something for next time!

People like Lauraine and Chris are critical contributions to the sheep industry on Shetland. Their humane and respectful treatment of animals and committment to sustainable farming practices must have a direct impact on the taste of the food – it’s inevitable.  The excitement of honest, humane food practices and the emphasis on traditional values brought me to Shetland to experience the taste of Shetland in person.

It was this complex, yet simple sustainable crofting approach to life and food production that I sought out in my travels to Shetland. And from that search, I found Garth’s Croft on Bressay.

* Other Heritage Tours with Garth’s Croft

Normally, visits to Garth’s Croft are combined with a trip to the Bressay Heritage Centre and Speldiburn Cafe, but alas – it was the dreaded Monday in off-season Scotland, where almost everything is closed. But don’t let that stop you – it didn’t hinder my experience with Chris that day. Following the morning at the croft, in the most torrential weather conditions, we set out in Bressay to explore croft ruins and an Iron Age broch.

Later on in the week, I spent a second day with Chris, almost entirely unrelated to food.  We went up through mainland Shetland to Yell (via another ferry) and onto Unst (via ferry), to the UK’s most northern part – basking in its rugged beauty and history dotting the land. 

From the remains of Viking longhouses in Sandwick to the construction site of its new space port (space port?  I know, right?!!), Chris’ enthusiasm for the land and its history was infectious.  Because you can only plan so much with island life, a serendipitous missing of a ferry led us to exploring the spectacular Breckon Sands beach in Yell. 

• ❤️ Shout out to these good folks on Unst: Final Checkout Café for the delightful white coffee and Skibhoul Bakery for your wonderful baked goods for our picnic.

Even though Viking or military history isn’t my strong suit, there are so many memorable things about that day.  I don’t know if it was the wild remoteness that hypnotized me, the picnic inside a (replica) Viking longhouse (I love a good picnic), or the fact that we were the two most northern people in all of the UK that day… it was windy and rainy at parts, but overall, filled with wonder and amazement.

More to come on this later!

3. Hospitality and Food in Shetland

During my time in Shetland, I was fortunate enough to be able to spend time with people and their families – a far cry from your average tourist experience. I wanted to share some of the warm memories centered around food that my hosts and their families left with me.

* With Mary in Bigton

There’s nothing like a freak internet and mobile blackout to bring people together.  The morning that I arrived on Shetland, unbeknownst to me, there was a blackout of all internet and cell services.  Everything (digital) came to a halt.  Luckily, people in the villages of rural Scotland are used to walking over to their neighbors for a blether. And in the village of Bigton, there was a lot of folks popping into Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast every so often to say hi to Mary (my hostess) and have a blether about the blackout. 

Through the course of the week on Shetland, I met and chatted and dined with Mary’s: daughter, granddaughter, niece, sisters, and other relatives that I met in a blur.  It was so fun hear them spiritedly catch up with each other, in the Shetland dialect, translated at times for my benefit.  And as someone who works abroad for most of the year, it tugged at my heart strings for the family not near me. 

What lovely family moments, chatting away over a roasting peat fire, often talking and laughing well into the night. 

Before I ran off to the ferry, I sat down for one last meal with Mary, her daughter, and granddaughter.  A simple vegetable soup with lamb.  As Mary’s daughter explained to her daughter, “Granny’s mum made this soup for me and now granny is now making this soup for you.”  And just like that, I was brought into the fold of Mary’s mothers’ vegetable soup with lamb, keeping me warm as I left Shetland.

* Scatness with Marian

If ever there were any singular person who is Shetland food’s greatest ambassador and quintessential expert, that would be Marian Armitage. 

Marian, a local Shetlander who now splits her time between London and Shetland, dreamt of being a cookery school teacher at age 12. Now, with two books out, she is the go-to-resource on Shetland’s food and traditional recipes.

I spent my last morning in Shetland in the village of Scatness with Marian.  When I walked into her kitchen, a charming throwback to country kitchens, it felt cozy, adorable, and oddly familiar. A quick glance to the stack of cooking books on the table revealed Marian’s first book – Shetland Food and Cooking – with her iconic kitchen immortalized on the cover.

That morning, Marian was expecting her old neighbors from Lerwick to stop by, and set about to bake some fresh beremeal bannocks for her guests. By the time I arrived, they were just coming out of the oven. Perfect timing, I love a freshly baked good.

There’s something about the smells of a kitchen that’s just baked something fresh, isn’t there?

She instinctively grabs a bannock, slathers some Shetland butter on it, and asks me to taste it. “Is it done?” she asks. Of course the bannocks are done, and absolutely perfect from my perspective. Warm and thick, with deliciously melted butter dripping off the edges. “We’ll have it with some rhubarb jam in a minute.” (homemade, obviously)

As we walk into the conservatory overlooking the wild sea, we reminisce about Orkney and our visit to Barony Mill, where the beremeal flour she’s using was milled. Bere is an ancient barley, which dates back to the 8th century. A darker grain, and slightly bitter – making the bannocks a hearty affair. Like Shetland, I suppose.

Marian and I spoke at length about her love of Shetland and its food traditions, and the deep drive she has to share it with people. I didn’t realize the depths of that passion at the time, but I do now. I get it. As she so beautifully describes in her first book:

“What is special about Shetland is the people who live there and their relationship and interaction with the surrounding sea and land. They are interesting, interested, unique, skilled and outward thinking. They are influenced by the past and in many instances the old ways.”

– Marian Armitage, from Shetland Food and Cooking.

But it’s the strength of the relationships that Shetlanders have with each other too, that enhances the experience with food. And in all honesty, the bannocks and rhubarb jam tasted better with the company of Marian, Marian’s husband, James, her old neighbor from Lerwick, and his friend.

And once again, the familiar embrace of Shetland warmth and hospitality and food.

4. Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you all can see, this was a very moving trip for me. The connection between the food, the land, the people, the sea, and the animals is so thoughtful and vibrant, and really, such an exciting thing to experience. I really wasn’t prepared for all the ways that Shetland’s food opened my eyes into their world. Aside from the taste of the food itself, no regional cuisine has given me so much to think about.

But isn’t that what travel is supposed to do for us? Give us a moment to pause, reflect, and consider a different way of life? I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge that with globalization and mass production, it’s simply easier (and unfortunately cheaper) to just go to the grocery store to buy your clementines from Spain or your pears from Chile. Many people don’t have easy access to farm-to-table or local produce options.

But that being said, this is a food and travel blog. I write this in hopes of influencing conscious decisions about food choices when you travel:

• Intentional support of local businesses.
• Seeking out ethical and sustainable businesses.
• Finding experiences that go beyond the norm.
• Meeting and embracing the local community.

Those are the things that fill your heart with memories after you return.

I’m reminded of an Anthony Bourdain quote,

“Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that were charming and interesting and intoxicating to me. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.“

And with that, I sincerely thank Shetland for the perfect meal it served me.

5. Shetland Post Resources

• Chris from Garth’s Croft on Bressay – the reluctant food tourism hero of Bressay, promoting heritage and sustainable agriculture in Shetland;

• Link
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Mail

• Where I stayed in Shetland: Hayhoull Bed & Breakfast in Bigton – 25 minutes drive from Lerwick and right next to St. Ninian’s Isle. I think you know I had an absolutely wonderful stay here!

• Link
• Facebook
• Mail

• Marian Armitage’s Shetland books – Food Made in Shetland (just released in 2022!) and Shetland Food and Cooking. If you’re wanting to learn more about the food, these books from Marian are essential for any foodie and home cook! They’re filled with traditional Shetland recipes and great photos to salivate over.

• Link
• Instagram
• Amazon

Getting to Shetland by Air

There are regular direct flights to Sumburgh Airport on Loganair from:

• Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness and Kirkwall (Orkney) in Scotland;
• London City and Manchester in England;
• Bergen, Norway, in the summer.

Getting to Shetland by Ferry

Take the 12-14 hour overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. On M, W, F, the ferry also stops in Orkney, so there’s an extra 2 hours for all the Orkney passengers and goods to join / disembark.

Most Shetlanders think the “pods” on the ship are miserable for such a long sailing. Though pricey, getting a room is highly recommended!

For those who get sea sick… off season North Sea overnight ferries are not your friend!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In years past, I never really gave “visiting islands” a second thought when choosing a holiday destination. It wasn’t until a former friend told me that he had a goal of visiting an island every year. The irony that we were having this discussion on Singapore, an island where we both lived at the time, was not lost on me.

For me, I was just in love with island life – the culture, the food, the feel. Previously, that applied to more tropical islands, as I lived for a few years between Singapore and Thailand, visiting Thai, Indonesian, Malaysian, and Polynesian islands that I could.

In the years that followed, my love for island life extended itself to Scotland. While Scottish islands definitely have a different feel than the tropical islands I was used to, the vibe of Scottish island life still got me hooked! Having bought a place on the Scottish Isle of Islay in early 2021, the things that I love about island life still ring true. Something that Scottish islands have in excess than other island communities I’ve visited previously, the warm sense of hospitality toward visitors!

Just a little side note before I continue on to the Scottish Islands Passport. The US National Park Service also has a similar National Park Passport, which is a physical book you can take around to each National Park. Each National Park has a stamping station, where you can stamp the date of your visit, with a unique national park design. There are also supplementary info and sticker sheets you can buy to give more details on the National Park itself. Many moons ago, when my family exclusively vacationed in US National Parks, my mom and my sister each got a National Park Passport. Me? I was too cool for school and didn’t want one.

Do I have a world of regrets of not getting one? Of course I do.

Luckily for all those people who are too cool for school now, the Scottish Islands Passport is a digital app, so any regrets are easily rectified! But before I get too far along, allow me to introduce the Scottish Islands Passport

1. Scottish Islands Passport: an intro

The Scottish Islands Passport is a project funded by the Scottish Government, the Highlands and Islands Transport Partnership (HITRANS), Shetland’s Transport Partnership (ZetTrans), and a number of rural development programs. Of the 800+ Scottish islands, 72 islands were selected for inclusion into the Scottish Islands Passport.

Why not include all 800+ Scottish Islands?

Well, the majority of Scottish islands are uninhabited. Of the 72 islands included in the Scottish Islands Passport, they all (first) inhabited. You can’t really get a passport stamped if there is no one there to stamp it! (Ok, in a digital world, you can, but still).

Not only was being populated a criteria, there were two other points for selection:

– easy access by regular public (or low-cost) transport;
– welcoming to visitors from all walks of life.

Scottish Islands Passport – Our Islands

So, being inhabited, easy access via public / low-cost transport, and welcoming of all visitors. Sounds like the kind of islands I would visit!

2. The Scottish Islands Passport App

The Scottish Islands Passport is a digital passport, as opposed to a physical one. Feel free to download the app from Google Play or Apple’s App Store.

There are a few main features of the app:

• Explore a geographic area – If you know you’re looking for Northern Isles (i.e. Shetland or Orkney), or islands in a different direction, you can explore the islands via a pinned map section;
• Discover your perfect island – input all the things you want to achieve for your island getaway and out pops out the islands which you may enoy! various inputs include: history/heritage, food and drink (me!!), outdoor activities, nature or arts/music. You can even include whether you are looking for family friendly activities or festival-type events. What you’ll get is a list of tentative ideas for Scottish islands holidays.
• When you’ve chosen the island, you can find a variety of ideas for your Scottish islands holidays. It will share what the island is famous for, some insider tips, references for accommodations and useful guides on how to get to the island.
• On the “Experiences” tab for each island, is a running list of local island businesses, things to see and do, places to eat and any local festivals the island may have!
• Create a photo journal of your favorite memories on your trip and share later!
• and then of course, the Passport.

Just a few screen shots to show you the interface. But if you didn’t notice above, who wants to go to the Barra and Vatersay Potato Competition during the potato festival?? COUNT ME IN!

3. How to collect passport stamps for Scottish islands

When you visit Scottish Islands, some locations will have a QR code for you to scan to add your passport. If you forget to scan the QR code, or if you want to record your previous scottish islands, there is the option to do that as well!

Each of the passport stamps are designed to represent an important part of the island’s culture. Look at how beautiful Orkney and Jura’s stamps are!

Under the tab of stamp story, you can read about what the stamp represesnts in both Gaelic and English.

You can view your full passport on the Passport tab on the bottom. Each of teh passports are arranged in section by island groups. For me, I’ve been to:

• 4 of 18 South Western Isles (Colonsay, Islay, Jura, Mull)
• 1 of 22 North Western Isles (Skye)
• 2 of 32 Northern Isles (Mainland Orkney and South Ronaldsay)

4. Parting Thoughts

Generally, I think the Scottish Islands Passport is a really fun idea! Personally for me, I’m always looking for new islands to explore. It can help those indecisive folks who can’t choose one island, or even those who are looking for a new festival to celebrate. Watch out Barra next August – I’m comin for the potato festival!

The Scottish Islands Passport app is free to download so why not give it a download and start planning your next island adventure! Download here from Google Play or Apple’s App Store.

If you’re looking for different ideas for Scottish island adventures, I’ve written about a few:

• the Isle of Islay – my home, and a dominant force in the scotch whisky world;
• Colonsay – nearby, with lots of walks and incredible seafood and gin;
• Orkney Islands – which I did as a wee day trip from John o’Groates, but should really be a holiday unto itself;
• go on a seafood adventure in Scotland, following my expertly curated list of best seafood spots;
• the Isle of Skye – home of stunning landscapes and where fairies tend to hide;
• a west coast and Treshnish Isles puffin adventure with famed Scottish photographer, Bryan Millar Walker.

Or, if you’d like to take a small-group tour to the islands, check out Rabbie’s – they are highly recommended! Some of their island offerings include:

• Outer Hebrides & Skye – 6 day tour, seeing Loch Ness, Callanish standing stones, Skye and Lewis and Harris (and more!) from 465£;
• Orkney Islands & NC500 – 5 day tour, seeing Orkney, Culloden, and driving along the North Coast 500, from 379£;
• Iona, Mull & the Isle of Skye – 5 day tour, with Fingal’s Cave, the Iona Abbey, and Glencoe among its main sites, from 415£;
• or my home – Islay and the Whisky Coast – a 4 day tour, from 335£

And check out my friend Kay’s blog, The Chaotic Scot. Scottish islands accessible by public transport are her thing! So far she’s visited 62 Scottish islands. Incredible!

Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Scotland, you’ll have to love its weather too.

In Scotland, there is no such thing as bad weather – only the wrong clothes.

Billy Connolly, Scottish legend

• From my experience, the best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
• For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!

And with that little nugget of preparedness, I bid you adieu!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you are pressed for time, flying into the Islay Airport is definitely an option, via regular flights from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair.  However, it can be a little pricey for the cost-conscious, and can cost an average of 150£ for a round trip, per person.

And before you ask, nope! There are no Glasgow to Islay train options!

So, onwards to the public transportation option to Islay!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Cost breakdown on getting to Islay from Glasgow, by bus & ferry

By using only public transport to Islay, it will cost you from 69 GBP round trip (without a car) from Glasgow, with the most expensive part being the bus. 

1. Bus 500 from Glasgow airport to Glasgow central: 9£ – one way (14.80£ discounted return);
2. Bus 926 from Glasgow to Kennacraig: 22.40£ – one way
   • 💡Expert tip: the return ticket is only 1£ more, so buy them both at the same time to save money!
   • You must book the bus in advance;
3. CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen / Port Askaig: 7.10£ per person – one way
   • (or if you are driving from Glasgow to Kennacraig, and taking your car on the ferry: the passenger ticket, plus 35.55£ – one way)

So, for one person, the one way cost from Glasgow airport to Islay is: 38 GBP! Pretty good, right?

While Islay is accessible from other points across Scotland, this post mainly focuses on taking public transport to Islay from Glasgow.  Glasgow is the major hub to us Ileachs (what we call local folks on Islay), and the place where most of us go for our mainland fix.  Don’t get me wrong, island life is an absolute delight, but sometimes you want a little break from village life.  Anyway, I digress.

2. How to get to Islay from Glasgow

Step 1: Glasgow airport to Glasgow City Center

Bus 500 is a regular bus line going from Glasgow airport to a handful of stops to Glasgow city center.  I’ve taken this bus several times, and it’s always a super convenient and easy going journey.  All new buses, with wifi and USB ports at each seat, it’s your luxury liner direct from airport to city center.

When you’re exiting the airport, there should be signs for the bus (turn left) and there it will be – in Stance (or bay) 1.  There aren’t many buses outside so you really can’t miss it.  The bus costs 9£ one way, and can be paid via contactless card on the bus itself.  You can also buy an open-ended return ticket for 14.80£.

These tickets don’t need to be purchased ahead of time, but if you want to save 0.50 – 0.80£ (depending on one-way or return ticket), download the First Bus App and book your tickets there.

Stops in Glasgow central include:

• Bothwell Street
• Bothwell Street at Hope Street (near Central Station)
• George Square at Queen Street Station
• North Hanover Street
• Buchanan Bus Station

For comparison, a one-way taxi between Glasgow airport costs between 20 – 25£, so if you are more than one person, this may be an easier option. 

If you’re going direct from the airport to Glasgow central to start your public transport journey to Islay, then head over to the Buchanan Bus Station.

If you happen to be arriving to Glasgow airport before 14:00 and want to go directly to the bus to Kennacraig, bus 926 swings by the Glasgow airport daily only at 14:20, and you can cut out the first step. When you exit the airport, instead of turning left for Bus 500, turn right and head down to Stance 10 for Bus 926. Remember, only at 14:20 and only once a day. I would suggest you book a ticket in advance on CityLink. Tickets are released 2 months before the travel date.

Hotel options near Glasgow Airport

There are a few hotels within walking distance to Glasgow Airport. I’ve stayed at most of them, so here are the closest recommendations:

– Courtyard Marriott Glasgow Airport – for me, this is the best option – as it is the newest and cleanest. It’s a little farther away, approx 7-8 minutes walking, but it’s worth it, especially if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member like I am.
– Holiday Inn Glasgow Airport – the closest airport hotel. You walk out of the terminal and cross the street, and under 1 minute, you’re there. Down side is that it can be a little dated and musty inside.
– Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport – I’ve never stayed here because it’s often sold out, but from the website it looks relatively new. Distance wise, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the terminal.

Step 2: Buchanan Bus Station to Kennacraig

Step 2 on getting to Islay from Glasgow: Take the bus to Kennacraig from Buchanan Bus Station

Ok, your bus tickets from Glasgow to Kennacraig must be booked in advance.  To book, go to the CityLink website.  Bus 926, the Glasgow to Campbeltown bus, takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes to get to Kennacraig, where your public transport journey to Islay continues by boat. 

Check the time boards at Buchanan bus station to know which bus bay (or stance) bus 926 departs from. The few times I took it, it departed from Stance 55.

The buses are luxury coaches, with bigger luggage going underneath. There is a bathroom at the back of the bus, but I never saw anyone use it. Sometimes there’s wifi, although it’s been hit or miss on my trips. Some seats have a USB port to charge your phone, but not all of them do. These are the old USB cables, not the new USB-C.

The three-hour bus ride includes driving alongside Loch Lomond and through the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. During the journey, there is one 10 minute “comfort stop” (about 2 hours in) in Inveraray.  For those of you who want to pronounce this, break it down and say it slowly: IN-VER-RARE-EE. Whew, these Scottish names are tricky!

Inveraray is a touristy former royal burgh famous for a beautiful castle and a historic jail (separate buildings but nonetheless an odd combination of things Inveraray is famous for).  I say it’s a tourist town because, maybe you’ll have to queue for the bathrooms.  There should be time to go use the loo, or get a coffee, but likely not both.

Sometimes the public toilets at Inveraray cost money, and on those days, coins are your friend. But quite possibly, 90% of the time I’ve visited, they are open and free.

One time, the bus started to drive off and a passenger alerted the bus driver to someone who wasn’t back yet.  He doesn’t count passengers before he departs, so stay alert!

If you look on CityLink, some of the bus routes intentionally include a long break in Inveraray for you to go sightseeing. I’m usually trying to catch the ferry to Islay as early as possible, so I’m not really up for a break. But if you are, it is one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland – and the home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll!

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From Inveraray, there’s only one hour before you reach the ferry port at Kennacraig. If you haven’t printed out your tickets, stop in the ticket office to grab your ticket.

The buses will get you to Kennacraig (ferry port) with about 30 minutes to spare before your ferry. 

Step 3: Ferry to Islay

How to get to Islay by Ferry

When choosing which ferry to Islay to book, know that there are two different ports: Port Askaig (pronounced ASK-kee) and Port Ellen.

I once had a friend, who is English, ask me: are you sure it’s not ASK-KEG? (suggesting an Anglicized pronounciation). I am 100% positive. The word “Askaig” has Norse and Scottish Gaelic roots and is pronounced ASK-kee. 🙂

The car ferry to Islay is run by CalMac Ferries, and genuinely, when the ferries run, I’ve always had a good trip. I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, even if you are only a foot passenger. Nowadays, you pretty much should book everything in advance.

Choosing your port entirely depends on where you’re staying and also whether you have a car or not. Islay buses only run from 8 am – 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. So if you’re coming in the early or late ferry, make taxi arrangements in advance!

The official CalMac Ferry Timetables for their 2024 summer sailings have not been released yet, so be patient!

– Port Askaig

From Port Askaig, you would need to time the Islay bus or a taxi to get to where you’re going. Definitely book a taxi in advance, as they’re not waiting at the ferry port for happenstance passengers.

The only hotel near Port Askaig is the Port Askaig Hotel. Besides that, you are near Caol Ila Distillery (reopened in 2022!), Ardnahoe Distillery, and Bunnahabhain Distillery. These three distilleries located are 30 min, 1 hour, and 1.5 hour walking distance (respectively) from the Port Askaig ferry port. FYI, if we’re on that side of the island, my favorite thing to do is the Warehouse 9 Tasting at Bunnahabhain!

If you’re staying in the Rhinns of Islay, near Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich, then Port Askaig is more convenient / closer arrival port for your Islay adventures.

*Note, located in the middle of Islay, Bowmore is equidistant from both Port Askaig and Port Ellen.

– Port Ellen

The other ferry port, Port Ellen, is located on the southern tip of Islay. Of the two, Port Ellen is supposedly the bigger port, but personally, I don’t see it.

If you make Port Ellen your base, it’s easy to get around without a car – you’d be able to walk to the Islay House Hotel (if you’re staying there), and Sea Salt for a lovely meal. The three “Southern peaty” distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) are all within walking distance from Port Ellen, taking 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 1 hour, respectively. But that’s not all in Port Ellen – don’t forget the soon-to-be-reopened Port Ellen Distillery, the new Portintruan Distillery (still under construction), and the new Islay Rum!

3. Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve walked you through on how to get to Islay from Glasgow using public transport, you are off on your Islay adventures! For a 36£ one way trip and total travel time of 6 hours, getting to Islay from Glasgow it’s not too bad!

• 3 of those hours are on the bus, with a little break in between,
• and 2.5 hours are on the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay.

If you’re concerned about the bus-to-ferry transfer, it is *mostly* linked. I can’t make any guarantees for the winter timetable, but in the summer during tourist season, the bus to ferry transfer is usually seamless!

• That means, when you board the bus and tell the driver you’re going to Kennacraig, the ferry is made aware of how many passengers are arriving by bus.
• But if there are significant delays, since the bus runs on the regular Campbeltown-Glasgow route, it will have to keep going. I’ve never experienced this, but don’t be afraid, you won’t be the only person in need of help. The best advice I can give you is, be friendly and band together!
• Similarly, if you are leaving Islay on the ferry and are catching the bus into Glasgow, the bus (mostly) waits for the ferry! If the ferry is delayed, they will make an announcement to ask for any passengers taking the bus to Glasgow.

There is also no reason to arrive to Kennacraig super early and wait. A ferry transfer is not like a flight! Arrive before the “check in closes” time on your ticket, and you’ll be fine! Kennacraig is not a town, it is a ferry terminal and the only things available there are:

• (1) bathrooms,
• (2) one hot-drinks vending machine, and
• (3) the ticket office, if you haven’t picked up your ticket!

For those who are pressed for time, the quickest way to Islay is to fly. The flight from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair takes about 30 – 40 minutes, and is super convenient. But it drives up the price, and is prone to cancellations due to low visibility. So if you have a bit of time, taking public transport to Islay is well worth it.

Just a friendly reminder that because Islay is an island, sometimes you physically cannot get there any faster due to the ferry or flight timings. So remember, slow down and enjoy the ride – you’re on island time now!

• For help planning your Islay trip and ideas on activities and wonderful places to eat, I’ve detailed all of that in my Ultimate Islay Guide.
• And if you’re looking for a whisky experience in Glasgow before you head off, look no further than the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s member room on Bath Street in central Glasgow. If you’re not a member, don’t worry – keep your eyes out for non-member whisky tasting events! You won’t regret it!
• If you’d rather not take public transport to Islay, why not visit Islay with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s Islay & the Whisky Isles 4-day Tour comes highly recommended!
  • If you need to negotiate a whisky tour with your better half, consider offering an Outlander tour to help with the bargaining 😉
• Connecting to Glasgow from elsewhere in Scotland? Take ScotRail to Glasgow Queen Street, and you can pick up Bus 500 around the corner at Hanover Street (look for a purple Bus 500 sign near the Costa Coffee).
• If you need to store some luggage before heading to Islay, there are several temporary luggage storage options around Glasgow Central. For only 5 GBP per bag per day,
• Coming to Scotland from London? Why not arrive to Glasgow via an overnight luxury sleeper train on the Caledonian Sleeper from London. Arrive well rested and ready to travel to Islay! If you’re looking for a review on this overnight train for Scotland, look no further! I’ve reviewed it for you HERE.
• Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Islay whisky, you’ll have to love Islay rain!
  • The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
  • The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) to go pouncing around Islay’s peat bogs is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber, these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
    • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Now you know that, despite living on a seemingly remote island, getting to Islay from Glasgow is relatively easy and straight forward. Until you grace the shores of my fair isle, I bid you adieu and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Unveiled recently in spring 2021, the Bruichladdich Foot and Cycle Path runs from the pier in Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. A project of the Islay Community Access Group and the Argyll and Bute Council, in partnership with Bruichladdich Distillery and the Botanist Foundation, the Bruichladdich walking path is a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one way coastal path. Maybe I walked a little further than the path is supposed to be, because my Apple Watch said it was closer to about 1.9 miles each way. But regardless of its length, it’s a beautifully paved path with a few wooden bridges and coastal views throughout.

Have I got your attention?

1. The start of the Bruichladdich Walking Path

While you can start your walk either in Port Charlotte or in Bruichladdich, I’d recommend starting in Port Charlotte. There’s plenty of street parking in the village of Port Charlotte, and if you’re going to walk there and back, you can stop off at the Port Charlotte Hotel afterwards for a bite to eat or a dram. It’s arguably one of the best places to eat on the island, so a great meal will be something to look forward to! I digress, and of course, am always distracted at the prospect of a great meal.

Port Charlotte (or Port Sgioba in Gaelic) is an idyllic village of beautiful white-washed houses, and the perfect place to start. From the village, walk towards the lighthouse.

2. Sections of Loch Indaal Way

2.1 The Loch Indaal Lighthouse

According to the Northern Lighthouse Board (the General Lighthouse Authority for the waters around Scotland and the Isle of Man), the Loch Indaal Lighthouse was built in 1869 by David and Thomas Stevenson. I never knew that there was an authority governing lighthouses, but it does make sense. The “character” of the lighthouse is described as flashing red and white every 7 seconds, and has a range of 11 nautical miles. The white tower itself is 13 meters high with a balcony and a black lantern. While it serves as a beacon of the Rhinns and the path, there is no public access to the lighthouse.

2.2 Bruichladdich Barley Fields

As you continue walking, besides the gorgeous coastal views, the thing you will see most on the opposite side of the road, is barley. Fields and fields of barley.

Although you may assume it, not all whisky distilleries grow their own barley. And if they do, it’s usually only for certain expressions of whisky, not their full production. The same can be said for Bruichladdich, which grows some of its own barley on Islay – but not all of it. Watching the barley calmly wave in the wind is almost poetic in a way – so soft, so beautiful. Such a wonderful spirit that comes from the barley itself.

2.3 St. Kiaran’s Church

Just past one of the Bruichladdich barley fields, is St. Kiaran’s Church. A Romanesque and Norman-styled church, built in 1897 to accommodate the boom in population the island experienced with the growing number of distilleries. Services are held Sundays at 11:30, and they welcome visitors. By now, you’re about halfway through the Loch Indaal Way.

2.4 War Memorial

Keep going a bit further, and you’ll come across the war memorial monument, commemorating the men of Kilchoman Parish, killed in World War I. From the beautiful stone monument, there are views of Bowmore in the distance, across Loch Indaal.

2.5 The Secret Beach

Ok, it’s probably not so secret. But I love the idea of a “blink and you’ll miss it” beach! Called the Port Ban Beach to those who know, the entrance to the beach is at the war monument. Simply let yourself in behind the gate, but remember to close it back up, in case there are any cows or sheep on that side! From the gate, there’s a paved path and some stairs that go down (and then unpaved as you go about halfway), and you’re nearly there! When you come off the path, first you traverse a bunch of small, smooth rocks, until soft, fine sand reveals itself closer to the water.

The first time I visited, I was alone there with my thoughts and the views. The second time, there was a family playing there in the shallow waters. Locals on Islay are extremely friendly, and after exchanging some delightful pleasantries about the weather and sunshine (always great topics on Islay), I navigated over some rocks and found a little corner of the beach to myself.

I planned ahead on my second trip, and brought with me a little bottle of Bruichladdich’s Classic Laddie. Could I call it one of the great whisky walks on Islay, without some whisky? (I mean, I could…) And of course, I had to choose a spirit from Bruichladdich Distillery, which we will come to when our journey continues.

3. Arrival to Bruichladdich

After a wee dram and some calming waves, I was off again. Not long and I reached Bruichladdich, the halfway point. Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) is a distillery village. As I was researching for this post, I began to wonder what came first – the distillery or the village? Is the distillery named after the village or vice versa?

According to Islay Info (the source of much of my Islay information), the village was built around the distillery in 1881. Unlike other distilleries, Bruichladdich’s Distillery buildings were not converted farmhouses, but built specifically for the distillery. Many of the old Victorian equipment is still in use today!

3.1 Bruichladdich Distillery

Bruichladdich produces three different ranges of whiskies:

• Bruichladdich, which is an unpeated expression – the Classic Laddie, an unaged statement, being one of them (and the one I sampled along the way);
• Port Charlotte, the heavily peated variety (at 40 PPM) – named after our starting point of the Loch Indaal Way!
• and Octomore, the super heavily peated single malt whisky (which ranges from 88 PPM to 167 PPM, depending on the edition) – named after a farm near Port Charlotte.

While I don’t know much about Bruichladdich’s whiskies (being on the other side of the island to me haha), prior to this whisky walk, I had tried Octomore. Rated as the most heavily peated whisky in the world, by a long shot, I just had to know. It wasn’t for me honestly, and that’s ok. Not all whiskies will be your friend. But I’ve only tried it once. I’m open to trying it again.

I did enjoy the Classic Laddie “pairing” with the secret beach. The aroma for me, which arguably was mixed with the salty sea air, was sweet honey. At 50% ABV, it kicked a bit stronger than I would’ve imagined. But it was still a nice addition to my walk!

Bruichladdich Distillery also produces The Botanist Gin, which includes 22 botanicals foraged here on Islay. While gin is not my area of expertise (haha, nor is whisky really), I do enjoy the Botanist. It’s a regular companion when I’m off at my duty station!

While Bruichladdich & The Botanist are currently not offering tours, the Laddie Shop is open for your whisky, gin and souvenirs. Book your slot in advance so you don’t miss out along your walk!

3.2 The Bruichladdich Mini Market

If you’re feeling peckish or need a little coffee pick me up, stop by the Bruichladdich Mini Market for light snacks and refreshments! Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the views of Loch Indaal. You’ve done 2 miles at this point. Pause and savor the moment before you turn around and head back to Port Charlotte!

4. Back in Port Charlotte

When you arrive back to Port Charlotte, you have a few different options. You can:

• stop by the Islay Natural History Museum and learn about Islay’s geology and wildlife;
• visit the Museum of Islay Life, and learn about Islay’s history through its large collection of artifacts and photos;
• eat a phenomenal meal and rest up at the Port Charlotte Hotel (or have a well deserved dram at its whisky bar!)

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel back in 2020 on my first trip to Islay, and for wonderful hospitality and delicious food, you’re at the right place!

5. Parting Thoughts and Information on the Bruichladdich Walking Path

Filled with stunning views, a secret beach or two, maybe some cows and sheep, what’s not to love about the Loch Indaal Way? I’m absolutely loving Islay’s whisky walks and even more, loving living on this island!

Genuinely, I’m so happy that Islay has a number of walks to go on, that include coastal views coupled with a little whisky to go along with it. This newly opened path is phenomenal! It’s beautifully paved, and an easy walk. Perfect for walking or cycling, and for people of all ages. There’s no shade on the walk, but the sun is rarely blistering on Islay, so you should be ok!

Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich can be reached by car or via the Islay bus system.

I’ve added this map to my trusty AllTrails hiking app, so here it is! For those who don’t have AllTrails, it is an incredible app that has user-verified hiking, walking, and biking routes. I never go hiking without it! Download the free app today 🙂

For your Islay vacation planning needs, check out:

• my Ultimate Guide to Islay;
• the two best places to stay on the island: Glenegedale House and the Port Charlotte Hotel;
• my whisky adventure on the other whisky walk on Islay: The Three Distilleries Path;
• Kilchoman Distillery (read about my Feis Ile tastings) with Islay’s only Farm Distillery;
• beloved bluebells if planning to visit between May and June;
• consider a day trip to nearby Colonsay before moving onward!

If you like themed whisky walks or you’re unable to come to Islay just yet, Nio Cocktails brings the Bruichladdich mood to you with some delicious at-home cocktails! These are perfect for when you want a quick cocktail. (I looove the Progressive Old Fashioned!) Just shake and add ice!

Until next time friends, stay safe! And Slainte!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/