From misty mountains to rocky beaches, this remote island has it all. And let’s not forget about the spirits – Jura Single Malt Whisky has distilled on the island off and on since 1810. In the last few years, a few more spirits joined the whisky on Jura – Lussa Gin, foraged with island botanicals, and Deer Island Rum, a small batch Scottish spiced rum. So come on down and experience the whimsy and wonder of Jura for yourself – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!

The way most people arrive to Jura is via Islay. There is a regular running 6-minute ferry between Port Askaig (Islay) and Feolin (Jura). That’s totally fine but, what if you’re not already on Islay? Trudging off to another island in order to get to Jura is actually not the fastest way to get to Jura!

The fastest way to Jura and the cheapest way to get to Jura is via the Jura Passenger Ferry, which runs seasonal ferries between Tayvallich and Craighouse, Jura’s village. I’ve broken down all of the logistical steps below to get you from Glasgow to Jura, and included a section at the bottom for some ideas during your time on Jura. Feel free to use the table to contents to jump around as you contemplate the different options for your trip to Jura!

1. Introducing the Jura Passenger Ferry

The Jura Passenger Ferry is a lifeline to those living on Jura, as it is the most direct connection with the mainland. As someone who lives on an island, those lifelines to the mainland are absolutely critical! As with many things in rural Scotland, the Jura Passenger Ferry is subsidized by Transport Scotland and the Argyll and Bute Council, but the funding isn’t without its stresses or its strings attached.

So, let’s all support the Jura Community by supporting the Jura Passenger Ferry!

In 2023, the Jura Passenger Ferry runs from March 29 to September 2023,
costing 25 GBP one way. Generally, there are no sailings on Tuesdays.

From the ferry schedule, most days have 2 round trip sailings between Jura and Tayvallich. On Saturday and Sunday, there is 1 sailing in each direction – Saturdays in the mornings, Sundays in the evenings. That means, you can easily do a weekend in Jura!

Here is the Tayvallich Jura ferry timetable for 2023:

2. How to get to Jura from Glasgow

Many people from Jura use the passenger ferry as their lifeline to the mainland, so they regularly take this journey between Glasgow and Jura! It may appear a little daunting with 2 buses and a ferry, but I’m here to give you the step by step breakdown and the confidence on how doable and easy it is!

Step 1: Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station to Lochgilphead

Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station

This first step is similar to getting to Islay from Glasgow, where you’ll catch CityLink Bus 926 (the Campbeltown bus) to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. For those who are struggling to pronounce Lochgilphead in their heads, break it down into these sections: lock-gilp-head, and then it becomes much easier.

From Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, the bus takes 2 hours 34 minutes and cost 18.40 GBP. I’ve always bought my tickets online in advance, because planning ahead is fun.

• 06:10 to 08:44 Lochgilphead (Lochnell Street, shore side)
• 14:00 to 16:41

Bus 926 has multiple departures from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station, but 06:10 and 14:00 buses are the most efficient, having the least transfer time between buses and ferries!

Step 2: Lochgilphead to Tayvallich

For the next leg, you’ll take Bus 425 operated by West Coast Motors, from the same stop at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (shore side) to Tayvallich Post Office. Bus 425 does not operate on Sundays.

The bus costs 3.50 GBP for a 24 hour local pass / 6.75 GBP for return, which you can pay for on the bus with a contactless card.

From April 17, 2023,

• Monday to Friday: 09:05 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office: perfect for the morning ferry.
  • 17:10 to 17:54: perfect for the evening ferry.
• Saturday: 08:50 to 09:32 Tayvallich Post Office
• Bus 425 still does not run on Sunday

Step 3: Ferry from Tayvallich to Jura

Now that you’ve diligently made it to Tayvallich, you’re ready to cross over to Jura! The journey between Tayvallich and Jura takes only 50 minutes, and with comfy seats, a heated interior, and toilets on board, what more could you ask for?

Quick Facts / FAQ about the Jura Passenger Ferry

• Tickets for the Jura Passenger Ferry are 25 GBP per passenger, each way.
  • Additional 2.50 GBP fee will be charged per bicycle.
• The ferry is a 14.3 meter Catamaran, with comfortable seating.
• The interior is heated, so don’t worry about the sudden cold or rainy day!
• There are toilets on board.
• There is disability access all around the boat.
• Outside has a fully covered roof, to provide some protection from the elements, while wildlife watching or enjoying the scenery on your journey.
• Children under 5 and dogs travel free.
• Max luggage allowance is 20 kg (44 lbs) per person. Please contact them if your luggage exceeds that.
• Passengers with back or neck problems are advised not to travel this route.
• For those who know about Corryvreckan, the third largest whirlpool in the world located off the coast of Jura, you will not pass by it during your crossing to Jura. Just managing expectations!

Connect with Jura Passenger Ferry by phone at +44 (0) 7768 450000 or online at:

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3. How to do a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, with cost breakdown

To use the Jura Passenger Ferry for a day trip to Jura from Glasgow, you have two options:

• (1) take the bus to/from Glasgow
• (2) drive to Tayvallich.

Due to the weekend ferry schedule, where there is only 1 sailing each way, you can only do a weekday day trip from Glasgow to Jura. If Saturday and Sunday are the only days you have, stay the weekend in Jura. You won’t regret it!

A day trip to Jura from Glasgow using only public transportation is totally doable! (for a weekday)

(1) Take the Bus to/from Glasgow to Jura

Use Step 1 and 2 above, starting from Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station at 06:10 am. You’ll arrive in Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry, arriving back to Tayvallich at 17:20 pm. And then you’ll take the journey in reverse:

• Bus 425 from Tayvallich Post Office to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) 17:57 to 18:25
  • Remember how you arrived at this bus stop in the morning on the shore side? You depart going back to Glasgow, on the inland side. Trust me, this advice makes sense.
• Bus 926 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street (inland side) to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station – 18:39 to 21:16

Total cost for a day trip to Jura on public transportation: 94 GBP round trip, per person. With that, you’ll get 5 solid hours on Jura, and some time on the way back to Glasgow to reminisce about Jura.

(2) Driving Option from Glasgow to Jura

• To drive from Glasgow to Tayvallich, takes about 2.5 hours, 100 miles;
• You’ll need to depart Glasgow around 7 am, in order to make your 10 am sailing from Tayvallich. I’m adding in a little extra time to be stuck at the ole Rest and be Thankful and so you can arrive to the Tayvallich ferry port 10 minutes before departure.
• Use the car park ACROSS from the Tayvallich Village Hall, at the far end of the village. This is a 5-7 minute walk from the ferry port.

You’ll arrive to Jura by 11 am, and depart on the 16:30 pm ferry. You’ll be back in Glasgow by 20:00 pm. This option will cost 50 GBP round trip, per person plus gas/petrol, but you’ll be able to travel to Jura in less than 4 hours from Glasgow. That’s not too bad!

(3) Luxurious Sea Plane for a Day Trip to Jura from Loch Lomond

In technicality, there is a third option of a day trip to Jura from mainland Scotland. If you’re pressed for time, and really want to do a day trip to Jura, there is one final option, the newest option – the lush option. Consider going via a sea plane from Loch Lomond! Multiple return flights per week between April to October and costs 199 GBP per person for the return trip. You’ll only get 2-2.5 hours on Jura, but with that, you’ll be able to explore the village, Craighouse, in its entirety, and check off a new island from your list!

To find more information about booking, visit Loch Lomond Seaplanes.

4. Traveling to Jura via Islay

Although it may not be the fastest way to get to Jura from mainland Scotland, many people arrive via the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, Islay. One reason you may insist on going this route is if you want to bring your car to Jura. The Port Askaig route way to get your car on Jura, but that requires you to add an additional step first – going through Islay (and their ferry) first. But luckily, the ferry from Islay to Jura only takes 7 minutes and runs multiple times a day.

There is no direct car ferry to Jura from mainland Scotland.

• Drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig (mainland west coast) – 2.5 hours;
• Calmac Ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) – 2 to 2.5 hours – 1 car, 1 person: 43.95 GBP (one-way);
• Ferry from Port Askaig (Islay) to Feolin (Jura) – 7 minutes – 1 car, 1 person, 8.40 GBP (one-way).

If you’re driving to Jura, book your Kennacraig to Islay ferry as soon as possible!
Car spots sell out easily.

The Islay to Jura ferry is a “turn up and go” service, which means you’ll pay for your tickets on the ferry itself. The ferry attendants do that super efficiently during the 7 minute journey! There’s no need to book your tickets in advance, so turn up and go!

5. Things to do on Jura

Now that you’ve successfully arrived on Jura, let’s talk about the fun things to do during your time there. Although Jura is a large island, it is sparsely populated with the main village of Craighouse being the center of activity. There’s plenty to see and do in Craighouse, so here are just a few options – of course with a little emphasis on food and drink! Who would I be otherwise?

Before I begin, I should include a little note for those of you who have never experienced rural Scotland before. Don’t be concerned if places don’t have an address, don’t be concerned if you don’t have specific directions. On Jura, there is one village, one road. That’s not an exaggeration.

The first time I visited Jura, my B&B host told me not to miss a stop in the community shop while there. I grabbed out my phone to pin a location on Google Maps, asking her for the name of the shop, the address, or its location. She and her husband giggled – there is only one shop in the village. You won’t miss it.

For the best introduction to Jura, consider going on a tour with Discover Jura. The tour goes on both land and sea, to highlight all the bests of Jura. You’ll enjoy tours of Jura Distillery and Lussa Gin, spot some seals or otters on your boat ride around the bay, have a deliciously prepared lunch at the Jura Hotel, and a snack stop at Tea on the Beach.

If you’d like to experience Jura on a guided walk with a local, Jura Guided offers a number of day walks across Jura! They range from 2 hours in and around Craighouse to a full day out to the remote bothies in deep in Jura’s wilderness.

If you feel like roaming around the village (Craighouse) on your own:

• take in the the main landmarks, the Jura Hotel and the Jura Distillery at the center of everything. Of course, they’re definitely worth stops – the food at the Jura Hotel is incredible (that’s where the pub is too). And the whisky – oh the whisky! I absolutely love Jura whisky, so why not take a tour?
  • Take note whisky fans – Jura Distillery is not open on Saturday and Sunday.
• stop for some souveniers at the Pier Garage – where you’ll find:
  • Whisky Island Gallery and Shop, gallery of award winning photographer, Konrad Borkowski,
  • Deer Island Rum, a delicious Scottish spiced rum and technically, Jura’s newest distillery. Personal favorite? Their limited run, cold brew coffee rum made in collaboration with Argyll Coffee Roasters!
  • Camella Crafts – handmade crafts using local or recycled materials. Stags feature a lot on their gifts, since Jura is the “island of deer” after all!
• In the other direction, heading north on the road, you’ll come across the Community Shop (“the shop”) which also doubles as the Post Office and the Jura community hall next door.
  • Be sure to grab a Laughing Stag Pale Ale from Jura Brewery at the shop, and taste Jura’s only locally brewed beer. If you visit Jura’s community events like the Jura Fell Races or the Jura Music Festival, you’ll see the TrALEr pop up bar make an appearance and supplying you with all the beverages.
  • Phillipa, Jura Brewery’s master microbrewer, is also the island’s only Occupational Therapist, Massage therapist, and yoga teacher (with occasional group yoga on the beach)!! Get in touch with her to find out more!

• The community hall is where a lot of things happen on Jura, from games nights to movie nights to community fairs. So check around, maybe there’s something there you want to check out!
• Don’t forget the views out to Small Isles Bay from the village!

• Just opposite the shop and the hall, is Antlers. Your local chippy, diner, ice cream shop, and all of the above! Open 7 days a week, and besides the hotel, the only place in Jura serving hot foods. Evening menu includes Jura venison burgers, Isle of Mull mussels, just to name a few!
• At some point if you keep walking, you’ll come across a bright pink shed. Now, one of the delightful things about rural Scotland are their honesty boxes. I love a good honesty box! The Island Bakehouse pink shed (honesty box) is getting a special shoutout for being a delicious baked-goods honesty box. Things I love from Island Bakehouse: fresh sourdough bread, omg their cookies, beef and Jura ale pies, sausage rolls, and (season depending) hot cross buns! Sorry, now I’m salivating. Am I saying take the ferry to Jura just for baked goods? If you’re like me and will travel for food… maybe?!

With it’s one road, a great option is to explore Jura by bike! The island is only 27 miles long x 6 miles wide and full of hills and turns and secret bays. Nicol Mackinnon, who operates the Jura Passenger Ferry (and is likely your skipper on the way over) also runs the bike hire on Jura, so contact him to make arrangements, and let him know you’re coming over on the passenger ferry!

Consider staying longer in Jura to explore the great outdoors on one of the many walks and hikes the island has to offer.

6. Parting Thoughts

Jura is definitely well worth the visit for a quaint, small island experience. I hadn’t properly visited in too long and my research for this post took me back last weekend for its community open day. It was lovely to chat with the locals about their passion for their home and their excitement at sharing it with tourists once the season starts.

The inherent struggles the community faced in securing funding for the passenger ferry this year highlights challenges rural communities continue to face despite wanting to make the island more accessible for those who want to visit. But basically, the more people use the passenger ferry, the easier it will be to get funding in future years! So, pack your bags and head to Tayvallich for your ride to Jura!

I also know that some people find visiting remote islands to be logistically challenging, so I hope that this post has removed any barriers to visiting! In reality, for those who live on islands, these ferry to bus to bus to train connections are second nature to us, as silly as that sounds. Luckily, the ferry and bus service timings reflect locals needing well-timed connections into Glasgow, so you should be in good hands!

If you’re ever concerned about making the next bus to bus (or ferry) connection, a good idea is to always speak to the driver! The bus drivers are in touch with the ferry just in case there are any delays – the power of a small, tight knit community means that little considerations (i.e., holding the bus or the ferry a few minutes for a passenger to make the connection) is normal!

Although I didn’t mention it in the post, there is an additional option if you’re coming from London – consider taking the night train on the way back down from Glasgow to London. You’ll arrive back in Glasgow with about an hour and a half to spare before the night train departs, after 23:00. Settle into your cabin or in the comfort seats and arrive in London Euston around 7 am. Feel free to check out my full review and cost breakdown!

And before I close, a big thank you to Gemma – Jura resident and the owner of Spirited Soaps in Bowmore (Islay)! If it weren’t for our random chats at the soap shop, I would have never known there was a passenger ferry to Jura from the mainland or the brand new sea plan from Loch Lomond! Be sure to stop by the soap shop to say hello and to grab a boozy soap!

Until the next adventure, stay healthy and safe!

Information for this post:

Jura Passenger Ferry & Jura Bike Hire:
Nicol Mackinnon
☎️: +44 (0) 7768 450000

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CityLink Bus – Bus 926 from Glasgow to Lochgilphead Lochnell Street. This needs to be booked in advance!

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West Coast Motors – Bus 425 from Lochgilphead Lochnell Street to Tayvallich Post Office. Pay on the bus! Check live bus arrival times too.

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Loch Lomond Sea Planes – if you’re super short on time, arrive to Jura by plane for a few hours on the island, before heading back to Loch Lomond.

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Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) Ferries – in case you’re coming with your car via Islay, book your Islay ferry as soon as possible. Car spots sell out quickly! Note that there are two ports on Islay: Port Askaig (closest to Jura) and Port Ellen. The ferry terminal at Port Askaig Islay has lanes for both the ferry to Jura and to the mainland. Be sure you’re in the right lane!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In years past, I never really gave “visiting islands” a second thought when choosing a holiday destination. It wasn’t until a former friend told me that he had a goal of visiting an island every year. The irony that we were having this discussion on Singapore, an island where we both lived at the time, was not lost on me.

For me, I was just in love with island life – the culture, the food, the feel. Previously, that applied to more tropical islands, as I lived for a few years between Singapore and Thailand, visiting Thai, Indonesian, Malaysian, and Polynesian islands that I could.

In the years that followed, my love for island life extended itself to Scotland. While Scottish islands definitely have a different feel than the tropical islands I was used to, the vibe of Scottish island life still got me hooked! Having bought a place on the Scottish Isle of Islay in early 2021, the things that I love about island life still ring true. Something that Scottish islands have in excess than other island communities I’ve visited previously, the warm sense of hospitality toward visitors!

Just a little side note before I continue on to the Scottish Islands Passport. The US National Park Service also has a similar National Park Passport, which is a physical book you can take around to each National Park. Each National Park has a stamping station, where you can stamp the date of your visit, with a unique national park design. There are also supplementary info and sticker sheets you can buy to give more details on the National Park itself. Many moons ago, when my family exclusively vacationed in US National Parks, my mom and my sister each got a National Park Passport. Me? I was too cool for school and didn’t want one.

Do I have a world of regrets of not getting one? Of course I do.

Luckily for all those people who are too cool for school now, the Scottish Islands Passport is a digital app, so any regrets are easily rectified! But before I get too far along, allow me to introduce the Scottish Islands Passport

1. Scottish Islands Passport: an intro

The Scottish Islands Passport is a project funded by the Scottish Government, the Highlands and Islands Transport Partnership (HITRANS), Shetland’s Transport Partnership (ZetTrans), and a number of rural development programs. Of the 800+ Scottish islands, 72 islands were selected for inclusion into the Scottish Islands Passport.

Why not include all 800+ Scottish Islands?

Well, the majority of Scottish islands are uninhabited. Of the 72 islands included in the Scottish Islands Passport, they all (first) inhabited. You can’t really get a passport stamped if there is no one there to stamp it! (Ok, in a digital world, you can, but still).

Not only was being populated a criteria, there were two other points for selection:

– easy access by regular public (or low-cost) transport;
– welcoming to visitors from all walks of life.

Scottish Islands Passport – Our Islands

So, being inhabited, easy access via public / low-cost transport, and welcoming of all visitors. Sounds like the kind of islands I would visit!

2. The Scottish Islands Passport App

The Scottish Islands Passport is a digital passport, as opposed to a physical one. Feel free to download the app from Google Play or Apple’s App Store.

There are a few main features of the app:

• Explore a geographic area – If you know you’re looking for Northern Isles (i.e. Shetland or Orkney), or islands in a different direction, you can explore the islands via a pinned map section;
• Discover your perfect island – input all the things you want to achieve for your island getaway and out pops out the islands which you may enoy! various inputs include: history/heritage, food and drink (me!!), outdoor activities, nature or arts/music. You can even include whether you are looking for family friendly activities or festival-type events. What you’ll get is a list of tentative ideas for Scottish islands holidays.
• When you’ve chosen the island, you can find a variety of ideas for your Scottish islands holidays. It will share what the island is famous for, some insider tips, references for accommodations and useful guides on how to get to the island.
• On the “Experiences” tab for each island, is a running list of local island businesses, things to see and do, places to eat and any local festivals the island may have!
• Create a photo journal of your favorite memories on your trip and share later!
• and then of course, the Passport.

Just a few screen shots to show you the interface. But if you didn’t notice above, who wants to go to the Barra and Vatersay Potato Competition during the potato festival?? COUNT ME IN!

3. How to collect passport stamps for Scottish islands

When you visit Scottish Islands, some locations will have a QR code for you to scan to add your passport. If you forget to scan the QR code, or if you want to record your previous scottish islands, there is the option to do that as well!

Each of the passport stamps are designed to represent an important part of the island’s culture. Look at how beautiful Orkney and Jura’s stamps are!

Under the tab of stamp story, you can read about what the stamp represesnts in both Gaelic and English.

You can view your full passport on the Passport tab on the bottom. Each of teh passports are arranged in section by island groups. For me, I’ve been to:

• 4 of 18 South Western Isles (Colonsay, Islay, Jura, Mull)
• 1 of 22 North Western Isles (Skye)
• 2 of 32 Northern Isles (Mainland Orkney and South Ronaldsay)

4. Parting Thoughts

Generally, I think the Scottish Islands Passport is a really fun idea! Personally for me, I’m always looking for new islands to explore. It can help those indecisive folks who can’t choose one island, or even those who are looking for a new festival to celebrate. Watch out Barra next August – I’m comin for the potato festival!

The Scottish Islands Passport app is free to download so why not give it a download and start planning your next island adventure! Download here from Google Play or Apple’s App Store.

If you’re looking for different ideas for Scottish island adventures, I’ve written about a few:

• the Isle of Islay – my home, and a dominant force in the scotch whisky world;
• Colonsay – nearby, with lots of walks and incredible seafood and gin;
• Orkney Islands – which I did as a wee day trip from John o’Groates, but should really be a holiday unto itself;
• go on a seafood adventure in Scotland, following my expertly curated list of best seafood spots;
• the Isle of Skye – home of stunning landscapes and where fairies tend to hide;
• a west coast and Treshnish Isles puffin adventure with famed Scottish photographer, Bryan Millar Walker.

Or, if you’d like to take a small-group tour to the islands, check out Rabbie’s – they are highly recommended! Some of their island offerings include:

• Outer Hebrides & Skye – 6 day tour, seeing Loch Ness, Callanish standing stones, Skye and Lewis and Harris (and more!) from 465£;
• Orkney Islands & NC500 – 5 day tour, seeing Orkney, Culloden, and driving along the North Coast 500, from 379£;
• Iona, Mull & the Isle of Skye – 5 day tour, with Fingal’s Cave, the Iona Abbey, and Glencoe among its main sites, from 415£;
• or my home – Islay and the Whisky Coast – a 4 day tour, from 335£

And check out my friend Kay’s blog, The Chaotic Scot. Scottish islands accessible by public transport are her thing! So far she’s visited 62 Scottish islands. Incredible!

Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Scotland, you’ll have to love its weather too.

In Scotland, there is no such thing as bad weather – only the wrong clothes.

Billy Connolly, Scottish legend

• From my experience, the best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
• For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!

And with that little nugget of preparedness, I bid you adieu!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you are pressed for time, flying into the Islay Airport is definitely an option, via regular flights from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair.  However, it can be a little pricey for the cost-conscious, and can cost an average of 150£ for a round trip, per person.

And before you ask, nope! There are no Glasgow to Islay train options!

So, onwards to the public transportation option to Islay!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Cost breakdown on getting to Islay from Glasgow, by bus & ferry

By using only public transport to Islay, it will cost you from 69 GBP round trip (without a car) from Glasgow, with the most expensive part being the bus. 

1. Bus 500 from Glasgow airport to Glasgow central: 9£ – one way (14.80£ discounted return);
2. Bus 926 from Glasgow to Kennacraig: 22.40£ – one way
   • 💡Expert tip: the return ticket is only 1£ more, so buy them both at the same time to save money!
   • You must book the bus in advance;
3. CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen / Port Askaig: 7.10£ per person – one way
   • (or if you are driving from Glasgow to Kennacraig, and taking your car on the ferry: the passenger ticket, plus 35.55£ – one way)

So, for one person, the one way cost from Glasgow airport to Islay is: 38 GBP! Pretty good, right?

While Islay is accessible from other points across Scotland, this post mainly focuses on taking public transport to Islay from Glasgow.  Glasgow is the major hub to us Ileachs (what we call local folks on Islay), and the place where most of us go for our mainland fix.  Don’t get me wrong, island life is an absolute delight, but sometimes you want a little break from village life.  Anyway, I digress.

2. How to get to Islay from Glasgow

Step 1: Glasgow airport to Glasgow City Center

Bus 500 is a regular bus line going from Glasgow airport to a handful of stops to Glasgow city center.  I’ve taken this bus several times, and it’s always a super convenient and easy going journey.  All new buses, with wifi and USB ports at each seat, it’s your luxury liner direct from airport to city center.

When you’re exiting the airport, there should be signs for the bus (turn left) and there it will be – in Stance (or bay) 1.  There aren’t many buses outside so you really can’t miss it.  The bus costs 9£ one way, and can be paid via contactless card on the bus itself.  You can also buy an open-ended return ticket for 14.80£.

These tickets don’t need to be purchased ahead of time, but if you want to save 0.50 – 0.80£ (depending on one-way or return ticket), download the First Bus App and book your tickets there.

Stops in Glasgow central include:

• Bothwell Street
• Bothwell Street at Hope Street (near Central Station)
• George Square at Queen Street Station
• North Hanover Street
• Buchanan Bus Station

For comparison, a one-way taxi between Glasgow airport costs between 20 – 25£, so if you are more than one person, this may be an easier option. 

If you’re going direct from the airport to Glasgow central to start your public transport journey to Islay, then head over to the Buchanan Bus Station.

If you happen to be arriving to Glasgow airport before 14:00 and want to go directly to the bus to Kennacraig, bus 926 swings by the Glasgow airport daily only at 14:20, and you can cut out the first step. When you exit the airport, instead of turning left for Bus 500, turn right and head down to Stance 10 for Bus 926. Remember, only at 14:20 and only once a day. I would suggest you book a ticket in advance on CityLink. Tickets are released 2 months before the travel date.

Hotel options near Glasgow Airport

There are a few hotels within walking distance to Glasgow Airport. I’ve stayed at most of them, so here are the closest recommendations:

– Courtyard Marriott Glasgow Airport – for me, this is the best option – as it is the newest and cleanest. It’s a little farther away, approx 7-8 minutes walking, but it’s worth it, especially if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member like I am.
– Holiday Inn Glasgow Airport – the closest airport hotel. You walk out of the terminal and cross the street, and under 1 minute, you’re there. Down side is that it can be a little dated and musty inside.
– Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport – I’ve never stayed here because it’s often sold out, but from the website it looks relatively new. Distance wise, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the terminal.

Step 2: Buchanan Bus Station to Kennacraig

Step 2 on getting to Islay from Glasgow: Take the bus to Kennacraig from Buchanan Bus Station

Ok, your bus tickets from Glasgow to Kennacraig must be booked in advance.  To book, go to the CityLink website.  Bus 926, the Glasgow to Campbeltown bus, takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes to get to Kennacraig, where your public transport journey to Islay continues by boat. 

Check the time boards at Buchanan bus station to know which bus bay (or stance) bus 926 departs from. The few times I took it, it departed from Stance 55.

The buses are luxury coaches, with bigger luggage going underneath. There is a bathroom at the back of the bus, but I never saw anyone use it. Sometimes there’s wifi, although it’s been hit or miss on my trips. Some seats have a USB port to charge your phone, but not all of them do. These are the old USB cables, not the new USB-C.

The three-hour bus ride includes driving alongside Loch Lomond and through the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. During the journey, there is one 10 minute “comfort stop” (about 2 hours in) in Inveraray.  For those of you who want to pronounce this, break it down and say it slowly: IN-VER-RARE-EE. Whew, these Scottish names are tricky!

Inveraray is a touristy former royal burgh famous for a beautiful castle and a historic jail (separate buildings but nonetheless an odd combination of things Inveraray is famous for).  I say it’s a tourist town because, maybe you’ll have to queue for the bathrooms.  There should be time to go use the loo, or get a coffee, but likely not both.

Sometimes the public toilets at Inveraray cost money, and on those days, coins are your friend. But quite possibly, 90% of the time I’ve visited, they are open and free.

One time, the bus started to drive off and a passenger alerted the bus driver to someone who wasn’t back yet.  He doesn’t count passengers before he departs, so stay alert!

If you look on CityLink, some of the bus routes intentionally include a long break in Inveraray for you to go sightseeing. I’m usually trying to catch the ferry to Islay as early as possible, so I’m not really up for a break. But if you are, it is one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland – and the home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll!

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From Inveraray, there’s only one hour before you reach the ferry port at Kennacraig. If you haven’t printed out your tickets, stop in the ticket office to grab your ticket.

The buses will get you to Kennacraig (ferry port) with about 30 minutes to spare before your ferry. 

Step 3: Ferry to Islay

How to get to Islay by Ferry

When choosing which ferry to Islay to book, know that there are two different ports: Port Askaig (pronounced ASK-kee) and Port Ellen.

I once had a friend, who is English, ask me: are you sure it’s not ASK-KEG? (suggesting an Anglicized pronounciation). I am 100% positive. The word “Askaig” has Norse and Scottish Gaelic roots and is pronounced ASK-kee. 🙂

The car ferry to Islay is run by CalMac Ferries, and genuinely, when the ferries run, I’ve always had a good trip. I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, even if you are only a foot passenger. Nowadays, you pretty much should book everything in advance.

Choosing your port entirely depends on where you’re staying and also whether you have a car or not. Islay buses only run from 8 am – 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. So if you’re coming in the early or late ferry, make taxi arrangements in advance!

The official CalMac Ferry Timetables for their 2024 summer sailings have not been released yet, so be patient!

– Port Askaig

From Port Askaig, you would need to time the Islay bus or a taxi to get to where you’re going. Definitely book a taxi in advance, as they’re not waiting at the ferry port for happenstance passengers.

The only hotel near Port Askaig is the Port Askaig Hotel. Besides that, you are near Caol Ila Distillery (reopened in 2022!), Ardnahoe Distillery, and Bunnahabhain Distillery. These three distilleries located are 30 min, 1 hour, and 1.5 hour walking distance (respectively) from the Port Askaig ferry port. FYI, if we’re on that side of the island, my favorite thing to do is the Warehouse 9 Tasting at Bunnahabhain!

If you’re staying in the Rhinns of Islay, near Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich, then Port Askaig is more convenient / closer arrival port for your Islay adventures.

*Note, located in the middle of Islay, Bowmore is equidistant from both Port Askaig and Port Ellen.

– Port Ellen

The other ferry port, Port Ellen, is located on the southern tip of Islay. Of the two, Port Ellen is supposedly the bigger port, but personally, I don’t see it.

If you make Port Ellen your base, it’s easy to get around without a car – you’d be able to walk to the Islay House Hotel (if you’re staying there), and Sea Salt for a lovely meal. The three “Southern peaty” distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) are all within walking distance from Port Ellen, taking 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 1 hour, respectively. But that’s not all in Port Ellen – don’t forget the soon-to-be-reopened Port Ellen Distillery, the new Portintruan Distillery (still under construction), and the new Islay Rum!

3. Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve walked you through on how to get to Islay from Glasgow using public transport, you are off on your Islay adventures! For a 36£ one way trip and total travel time of 6 hours, getting to Islay from Glasgow it’s not too bad!

• 3 of those hours are on the bus, with a little break in between,
• and 2.5 hours are on the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay.

If you’re concerned about the bus-to-ferry transfer, it is *mostly* linked. I can’t make any guarantees for the winter timetable, but in the summer during tourist season, the bus to ferry transfer is usually seamless!

• That means, when you board the bus and tell the driver you’re going to Kennacraig, the ferry is made aware of how many passengers are arriving by bus.
• But if there are significant delays, since the bus runs on the regular Campbeltown-Glasgow route, it will have to keep going. I’ve never experienced this, but don’t be afraid, you won’t be the only person in need of help. The best advice I can give you is, be friendly and band together!
• Similarly, if you are leaving Islay on the ferry and are catching the bus into Glasgow, the bus (mostly) waits for the ferry! If the ferry is delayed, they will make an announcement to ask for any passengers taking the bus to Glasgow.

There is also no reason to arrive to Kennacraig super early and wait. A ferry transfer is not like a flight! Arrive before the “check in closes” time on your ticket, and you’ll be fine! Kennacraig is not a town, it is a ferry terminal and the only things available there are:

• (1) bathrooms,
• (2) one hot-drinks vending machine, and
• (3) the ticket office, if you haven’t picked up your ticket!

For those who are pressed for time, the quickest way to Islay is to fly. The flight from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair takes about 30 – 40 minutes, and is super convenient. But it drives up the price, and is prone to cancellations due to low visibility. So if you have a bit of time, taking public transport to Islay is well worth it.

Just a friendly reminder that because Islay is an island, sometimes you physically cannot get there any faster due to the ferry or flight timings. So remember, slow down and enjoy the ride – you’re on island time now!

• For help planning your Islay trip and ideas on activities and wonderful places to eat, I’ve detailed all of that in my Ultimate Islay Guide.
• And if you’re looking for a whisky experience in Glasgow before you head off, look no further than the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s member room on Bath Street in central Glasgow. If you’re not a member, don’t worry – keep your eyes out for non-member whisky tasting events! You won’t regret it!
• If you’d rather not take public transport to Islay, why not visit Islay with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s Islay & the Whisky Isles 4-day Tour comes highly recommended!
  • If you need to negotiate a whisky tour with your better half, consider offering an Outlander tour to help with the bargaining 😉
• Connecting to Glasgow from elsewhere in Scotland? Take ScotRail to Glasgow Queen Street, and you can pick up Bus 500 around the corner at Hanover Street (look for a purple Bus 500 sign near the Costa Coffee).
• If you need to store some luggage before heading to Islay, there are several temporary luggage storage options around Glasgow Central. For only 5 GBP per bag per day,
• Coming to Scotland from London? Why not arrive to Glasgow via an overnight luxury sleeper train on the Caledonian Sleeper from London. Arrive well rested and ready to travel to Islay! If you’re looking for a review on this overnight train for Scotland, look no further! I’ve reviewed it for you HERE.
• Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Islay whisky, you’ll have to love Islay rain!
  • The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
  • The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) to go pouncing around Islay’s peat bogs is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber, these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
    • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Now you know that, despite living on a seemingly remote island, getting to Islay from Glasgow is relatively easy and straight forward. Until you grace the shores of my fair isle, I bid you adieu and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Unveiled recently in spring 2021, the Bruichladdich Foot and Cycle Path runs from the pier in Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. A project of the Islay Community Access Group and the Argyll and Bute Council, in partnership with Bruichladdich Distillery and the Botanist Foundation, the Bruichladdich walking path is a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one way coastal path. Maybe I walked a little further than the path is supposed to be, because my Apple Watch said it was closer to about 1.9 miles each way. But regardless of its length, it’s a beautifully paved path with a few wooden bridges and coastal views throughout.

Have I got your attention?

1. The start of the Bruichladdich Walking Path

While you can start your walk either in Port Charlotte or in Bruichladdich, I’d recommend starting in Port Charlotte. There’s plenty of street parking in the village of Port Charlotte, and if you’re going to walk there and back, you can stop off at the Port Charlotte Hotel afterwards for a bite to eat or a dram. It’s arguably one of the best places to eat on the island, so a great meal will be something to look forward to! I digress, and of course, am always distracted at the prospect of a great meal.

Port Charlotte (or Port Sgioba in Gaelic) is an idyllic village of beautiful white-washed houses, and the perfect place to start. From the village, walk towards the lighthouse.

2. Sections of Loch Indaal Way

2.1 The Loch Indaal Lighthouse

According to the Northern Lighthouse Board (the General Lighthouse Authority for the waters around Scotland and the Isle of Man), the Loch Indaal Lighthouse was built in 1869 by David and Thomas Stevenson. I never knew that there was an authority governing lighthouses, but it does make sense. The “character” of the lighthouse is described as flashing red and white every 7 seconds, and has a range of 11 nautical miles. The white tower itself is 13 meters high with a balcony and a black lantern. While it serves as a beacon of the Rhinns and the path, there is no public access to the lighthouse.

2.2 Bruichladdich Barley Fields

As you continue walking, besides the gorgeous coastal views, the thing you will see most on the opposite side of the road, is barley. Fields and fields of barley.

Although you may assume it, not all whisky distilleries grow their own barley. And if they do, it’s usually only for certain expressions of whisky, not their full production. The same can be said for Bruichladdich, which grows some of its own barley on Islay – but not all of it. Watching the barley calmly wave in the wind is almost poetic in a way – so soft, so beautiful. Such a wonderful spirit that comes from the barley itself.

2.3 St. Kiaran’s Church

Just past one of the Bruichladdich barley fields, is St. Kiaran’s Church. A Romanesque and Norman-styled church, built in 1897 to accommodate the boom in population the island experienced with the growing number of distilleries. Services are held Sundays at 11:30, and they welcome visitors. By now, you’re about halfway through the Loch Indaal Way.

2.4 War Memorial

Keep going a bit further, and you’ll come across the war memorial monument, commemorating the men of Kilchoman Parish, killed in World War I. From the beautiful stone monument, there are views of Bowmore in the distance, across Loch Indaal.

2.5 The Secret Beach

Ok, it’s probably not so secret. But I love the idea of a “blink and you’ll miss it” beach! Called the Port Ban Beach to those who know, the entrance to the beach is at the war monument. Simply let yourself in behind the gate, but remember to close it back up, in case there are any cows or sheep on that side! From the gate, there’s a paved path and some stairs that go down (and then unpaved as you go about halfway), and you’re nearly there! When you come off the path, first you traverse a bunch of small, smooth rocks, until soft, fine sand reveals itself closer to the water.

The first time I visited, I was alone there with my thoughts and the views. The second time, there was a family playing there in the shallow waters. Locals on Islay are extremely friendly, and after exchanging some delightful pleasantries about the weather and sunshine (always great topics on Islay), I navigated over some rocks and found a little corner of the beach to myself.

I planned ahead on my second trip, and brought with me a little bottle of Bruichladdich’s Classic Laddie. Could I call it one of the great whisky walks on Islay, without some whisky? (I mean, I could…) And of course, I had to choose a spirit from Bruichladdich Distillery, which we will come to when our journey continues.

3. Arrival to Bruichladdich

After a wee dram and some calming waves, I was off again. Not long and I reached Bruichladdich, the halfway point. Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) is a distillery village. As I was researching for this post, I began to wonder what came first – the distillery or the village? Is the distillery named after the village or vice versa?

According to Islay Info (the source of much of my Islay information), the village was built around the distillery in 1881. Unlike other distilleries, Bruichladdich’s Distillery buildings were not converted farmhouses, but built specifically for the distillery. Many of the old Victorian equipment is still in use today!

3.1 Bruichladdich Distillery

Bruichladdich produces three different ranges of whiskies:

• Bruichladdich, which is an unpeated expression – the Classic Laddie, an unaged statement, being one of them (and the one I sampled along the way);
• Port Charlotte, the heavily peated variety (at 40 PPM) – named after our starting point of the Loch Indaal Way!
• and Octomore, the super heavily peated single malt whisky (which ranges from 88 PPM to 167 PPM, depending on the edition) – named after a farm near Port Charlotte.

While I don’t know much about Bruichladdich’s whiskies (being on the other side of the island to me haha), prior to this whisky walk, I had tried Octomore. Rated as the most heavily peated whisky in the world, by a long shot, I just had to know. It wasn’t for me honestly, and that’s ok. Not all whiskies will be your friend. But I’ve only tried it once. I’m open to trying it again.

I did enjoy the Classic Laddie “pairing” with the secret beach. The aroma for me, which arguably was mixed with the salty sea air, was sweet honey. At 50% ABV, it kicked a bit stronger than I would’ve imagined. But it was still a nice addition to my walk!

Bruichladdich Distillery also produces The Botanist Gin, which includes 22 botanicals foraged here on Islay. While gin is not my area of expertise (haha, nor is whisky really), I do enjoy the Botanist. It’s a regular companion when I’m off at my duty station!

While Bruichladdich & The Botanist are currently not offering tours, the Laddie Shop is open for your whisky, gin and souvenirs. Book your slot in advance so you don’t miss out along your walk!

3.2 The Bruichladdich Mini Market

If you’re feeling peckish or need a little coffee pick me up, stop by the Bruichladdich Mini Market for light snacks and refreshments! Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the views of Loch Indaal. You’ve done 2 miles at this point. Pause and savor the moment before you turn around and head back to Port Charlotte!

4. Back in Port Charlotte

When you arrive back to Port Charlotte, you have a few different options. You can:

• stop by the Islay Natural History Museum and learn about Islay’s geology and wildlife;
• visit the Museum of Islay Life, and learn about Islay’s history through its large collection of artifacts and photos;
• eat a phenomenal meal and rest up at the Port Charlotte Hotel (or have a well deserved dram at its whisky bar!)

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel back in 2020 on my first trip to Islay, and for wonderful hospitality and delicious food, you’re at the right place!

5. Parting Thoughts and Information on the Bruichladdich Walking Path

Filled with stunning views, a secret beach or two, maybe some cows and sheep, what’s not to love about the Loch Indaal Way? I’m absolutely loving Islay’s whisky walks and even more, loving living on this island!

Genuinely, I’m so happy that Islay has a number of walks to go on, that include coastal views coupled with a little whisky to go along with it. This newly opened path is phenomenal! It’s beautifully paved, and an easy walk. Perfect for walking or cycling, and for people of all ages. There’s no shade on the walk, but the sun is rarely blistering on Islay, so you should be ok!

Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich can be reached by car or via the Islay bus system.

I’ve added this map to my trusty AllTrails hiking app, so here it is! For those who don’t have AllTrails, it is an incredible app that has user-verified hiking, walking, and biking routes. I never go hiking without it! Download the free app today 🙂

For your Islay vacation planning needs, check out:

• my Ultimate Guide to Islay;
• the two best places to stay on the island: Glenegedale House and the Port Charlotte Hotel;
• my whisky adventure on the other whisky walk on Islay: The Three Distilleries Path;
• Kilchoman Distillery (read about my Feis Ile tastings) with Islay’s only Farm Distillery;
• beloved bluebells if planning to visit between May and June;
• consider a day trip to nearby Colonsay before moving onward!

If you like themed whisky walks or you’re unable to come to Islay just yet, Nio Cocktails brings the Bruichladdich mood to you with some delicious at-home cocktails! These are perfect for when you want a quick cocktail. (I looove the Progressive Old Fashioned!) Just shake and add ice!

Until next time friends, stay safe! And Slainte!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

To introduce you to these delightful flowers, some brief facts:

• Bluebells are common in the UK, but not really in the rest of the world. In fact, than half of the worlds bluebells are in the UK. 
• But don’t go picking them from the wild, they’re protected under the Wildlife and Conservation Act of 1981.

Where bluebells grow, on the ground of ancient forests, they blanket the forest floor.  And I guess that makes sense why there would be so many bluebells in Scotland – Scotland is home to so much ancient, old forestry.

Even though the bluebells lay a purple carpet down in the woodlands, resist the urge to go frolicking inside the bluebells. Damage to the plant caused by accidentally stepping on it, basically cuts off the plant’s food supply and it subsequently dies. Bluebells are a delicate thing.

Now that I live on the Isle of Islay, I was pleasantly surprised that there are several areas on the island that bluebells happily grow. Although the normal blooming season on mainland UK is closer to April / May, on Islay, bluebells can be seen well into June.

1. Best place for Bluebells in Islay – Bridgend Woods

One of the best places for bluebells on Islay is the Bridgend Woods, located just across the street from Islay House Square.

A few weeks ago, I visited Nerabus Gin (a local, small batch gin producer) for a chat and some gin cocktails. Having drove on my own, I decided a walk in Bridgend Woods would be the perfect way to sober up, post-cocktails. Being a solo traveler, I have to be my own designated driver. So I always plan my drinks and time accordingly, and have something planned post-drinks in order to be able to drive myself home afterward. A walk in Bridgend woods was arguably my best idea for sobering up yet.

For those planning on visiting Bridgend woods, head towards Islay House Square. Just inside the turn, off of the A846, there is a car park for the woods.  The entrance to the woods is just on the opposite side of the street, through the gates.

You quickly go from walking in from the road, to a quiet and serene magical forest setting. There is a good path to follow all the way through.  Within a matter of steps, you start to see bluebells on both sides of you.

There are different ways to turn along the path, but you won’t get lost. And you won’t be short of bluebells either!

2. Three Distilleries Path

I walk the Three Distilleries Path quite often, since its starting point is in Port Ellen. The Three Distilleries Path is one way road / seaside trail that runs from Port Ellen to Ardbeg. Along the way, you pass by Laphroaig Distillery, Lagavulin Distillery, and then finally (the northernmost), Ardbeg Distillery.

Since the path itself is one way, personally, I like to take the bus one way from Port Ellen to Ardbeg (for 2£, runs Monday – Saturday, about every 2 hours) and then walk back.

While there aren’t bluebells along the whole path, they’re mostly in the sections from Ardbeg and Lagavulin, and Lagavulin and Laphroaig. And, they’re right alongside the Three Distilleries Path! You don’t have to go traipsing into the wild just to see these stunners. Keep to the path, and there will be bluebells!

Watch this video on YouTube.

Parting Thoughts on Bluebells in Islay

It’s always fun finding the special things about a new place. Bluebells simply aren’t a thing in America! But I do love them, and I love that they’re so easy to find on Islay.

Well, I’m new to Islay, so this isn’t a full list. Of course, as I get to know my new home a bit more, I’ll be updating this list to include new places as I discover them! Local Ileachs, share your favorite place for bluebells in Islay is and let me know in the comments!

If you’re considering coming to Islay for some bluebells, check out my other Islay posts:

• my ultimate Islay guide;
• Glenegedale House, the most luxurious B&B on Islay with incredible food and hospitality;
• Port Charlotte Hotel – sea views, lively whisky bar, and delicious food;
• a walk on the Three Distilleries Path with SMWS;
• Kilchoman Distillery’s Feis Ile whisky tastings;
• or take the ferry to neighboring Colonsay – a wee island, with gins and seafood!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

And for those who appreciate my pronunciation guides – a quick one:

– Kilchoman – kil-ho-man – refers to the parish area where the distillery is located
– Fèis Ìle – FAYsh EE-la – means the Islay Festival

– Lannie, hopefully teaching Gaelic pronunciation correctly

What is Fèis Ìle?

Fèis Ìle, Islay’s Whisky Festival, is an annual music and whisky festival held on Islay during the last week of May and first week of June. During Feis Isle, each distillery (more or less) has a dedicated day. I say more or less, because it’s not just Islay whiskies that are showcased. Neighboring Jura whisky and Jura’s Lussa Gin, as well as Nerabus Gin and Islay Ales on Islay have their time in the limelight too. The distilleries host exclusive tastings, release special festival bottlings – with drinks, music, dancing and lots of fun. At least, that’s what I can gather.

In 2020 and 2021, Feis Ile had to stay a virtual festival due to the giant pandemic in the room. You must be thinking how a whisky festival could host virtual events. Like the rest of the world, the distilleries hosted a variety of events online. Along with tours of the distillery, there was song and dance, as well as food pairings and whisky tastings, with tasting packs shipped out in advance.

1. My first Fèis Ìle on Islay

Feis Ile 2021 was my first Feis, and being a virtual one, you get a low key version of an exciting in-person festival. Here’s hoping the Islay Whisky Festival 2022 will be a roaring gathering once again!

In addition to all that, there were virtual whisky tastings. Now, I’m no stranger to virtual whisky tastings, having done one with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in April. I was delighted when Kilchoman gifted me all three Kilchoman tastings for their 2021 Feis Ile day. (Thank you so much!)

Toward the end of May, I headed up to the Kilchoman Distillery for lunch and a tasting at their whisky bar, and picked up my 3 tasting packs. To prepare for the tastings, I also bought:

• The Great Glen Chorizo Pack : Venison chorizo, venison & pork chorizo, and chili & venison chorizo – to pair with Kilchoman whiskies
• COCO Chocolatier chocolate bars : Atlantic sea salt & lime milk chocolate (pairs with Kilchoman’s Machir Bay whisky) and Haggis spice dark chocolate (pairs with Kilchoman’s Sanaig Bay whisky). Purchase exclusively at Kilchoman’s shop (either online or in person at the visitor center)

By the time Kilchoman Day during Feis Ile rolled around, I was ready to drink along with the Kilchoman gang as they did live tastings on social media.

2. 12:00 noon, Kilchoman Day – DNA Live tasting

While there were other distillery tours and Q&As scheduled throughout the day, the tastings started at 12 o’clock noon, and I was rearing to go! It took me a little while to set up – at first I thought projecting the live streaming onto the wall would be the way to go, but it turns out that makes it difficult to comment and interact during the tasting. And interacting is part of the fun in these virtual events! The DNA Kilchoman tastings was delightfully hosted by Antea and James.

The four whiskies included in the DNA pack, represent the DNA of Kilchoman – the four core whiskies that Kilchoman offers. Loch Gorm, Machir Bay, Sanaig, and 100% Islay.

2.1 Loch Gorm 2021

The Loch Gorm (named after a freshwater loch/lake next to the distillery) is an annual release matured entirely in oloroso sherry casks. Very sweet and smoky, with a little spicy kick. At 46% ABV, not too strong. When I first smell it, I get sweet, rum raisins and a bit of caramel. Loch Gorm is one of my favorite Kilchoman whiskies, due to the sweet and smoky combo. They said during the live tasting that there was a smoky, barbecue, bacon flavor – I don’t personally get the bacon, but maybe there’s a reason I like it!

The Loch Gorm 2021 is paired with the haggis spice dark chocolate, with the spices in the chocolate really bringing out that spiciness in the whisky. According to Antea, “the spices will marry really well with the sherry character.” The sweetness almost falls to the into the background, with the spiciness at the forefront. Loch Gorm is similarly paired with either the venison chorizo or the chili venison chorizo.

While I do have experience pairing whisky and chocolate, pairing whisky with meat is something I am new to. So, I’ll defer to the experts. James explained that chocolate and meats (things with rich flavors basically) pair really well with sherry matured whiskies. Additionally, the combination of smoked meats and Kilchoman’s peat smoked whiskies, just go really well together. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy my smoked meats, I enjoy my Kilchoman whiskies. I’ll have to experiment more to see how I can enjoy them well together!

2.2 100% Islay (2021 Preview)

Similar to Loch Gorm, the 100% Islay has an annual release. While it’s schedule to be released later this year, the one included in the DNA tastings is a preview of this year’s annual release.

What’s great about 100% Islay, is that it’s made with barley grown at Kilchoman itself. Most distilleries buy their barley and malt it themselves (or even buy malted barley from a maltings). While Kilchoman does buy barley for their other expressions, the 100% Islay is made from their home grown barley.

When I first smelled the 100% Islay, it was very floral on the nose. Floral, then sweet. Then James said it smelled like hay and sweet malt, and then all I could smell was the hay. It’s funny how your brain processes smells, no?

The 100% Islay preview was cask strength, 56.5% ABV. However, when it’s released later this year, 100% Islay will be bottled around 50% ABV.

2.3 Machir Bay (Cask Strength)

Machir Bay, named for the gorgeous beach (above) near the distillery, is a classic core range Kilchoman whisky. The one for the tasting is at cask strength (58.9% ABV – wowww), and has sweet, fruity tones, with a hint of peat. Antea called it a “playful dram” and that made me smile.

This “playful dram” is paired with the Sea Salt and Lime Chocolate, because of the citrusy and saltiness of the chocolate. With the chocolate, the peat flavor in the whisky really comes forward. James also suggested pairing Machir Bay with a “seafood snack”, due to the Machir Bay’s heavy bourbon influence. I mean, anyone suggesting pairing a whisky with a seafood snack, is my kinda friend! For the charcuterie, Antea suggested the pork and venison chorizo, since it’s a bit fattier and would inherently enhance the sweetness of the whisky.

2.4 Sanaig (Cask Strength)

Because Sanaig is matured in oloroso sherry hogshead barrels, the whisky has greater contact with the oils in the barrel itself. This gives Sanaig its rich caramel coloring.

Paired with the chili venison (or the regular venison) chorizo. Similar to the Loch Gorm (which is sherry matured), James says it pairs well with anything that’s rich and spicy, like stewed meats. You can see what’s on James’ mind, probably a nice BBQ. He described the Sanaig as:

• “Savoury meaty notes.”
• “Sweet barbecue sauce.”
• “Slow cooked lamb flavor.”

I’m a little confused at the meaty descriptions – no barbecue sauce for me. Just sweet vanillas and caramels. I think that’s just the sherry influence on me.

Paired with the haggis spice dark chocolate, the spiciness of the whisky really comes through to the point where it surprised me a little. Not in a bad way though, just a surprise.

2.5 My parting thoughts on the DNA Feis Ile tasting pack

I was really happy to do these Kilchoman tastings. For one, I hadn’t had their core range in almost a year! It was like seeing old familiar friends again, but with some updated bottlings and and a little preview of things to come. My favorite is probably still the Loch Gorm. I’m a sucker for an oloroso sherry cask maturation.

I loved the pairings with the chocolate. The one that stood out the most for me was the Machir Bay paired with the lime and sea salt chocolate. Something about that citrusy, salty chocolate (which was delicious in its own), seemed to go hand in hand with Machir Bay’s “playful dram.”

All in all, a delightful 4 whiskies in Kilchoman’s core range. 4 down… 8 to go?

3. 6:00 pm, Kilchoman Day – Through the Ages Tasting

After a long nap and a break, I’m back again for a whisky sundowner with Robin (Production Manager), Peter and George (from the Wills Family). It starts with the New Make Spirit, to spirits from bourbon casks maturing from 2016, 2011 and finally 2006. It goes from new to 5 year old to 10 to 15 years. In my photo, I got my dates completely turned around, so don’t be confused as I was.

3.1 New Make Spirit (Port Ellen Malt) – 65.5% ABV

New make spirit is basically the alcohol following distillation, before it heads into the casks. The malted barley in this New Make Spirit comes from Port Ellen Maltings (down the street from me!). The Port Ellen New Make Spirit (depending on the casks it goes into for maturation), eventually becomes the Loch Gorm, Machir Bay, and Sanaig from Kilchoman’s

core range.

I’ve never tried a new make spirit before and honestly didn’t know what to expect. Robin described as “light, fruity, and even floral” taste. George described it as an “amazing floral quality and sweetness.” From the last tasting, James teased it and described it as “elegant, rounded, lots of tropical fruit, and not a lot of peat smoke. Lovely and clean.”

Ok, I’ll stop telling you what they think – here’s what I think. It smells like cardboard or paper. Later on, Peter calls it a “farmyard feel” (I think they meant it in a good way) but it does feel like a farmyard, but not in a good way. It does remind me of the malted barley smell when you walk by a distillery. While that is definitely a sweet, pungent smell, it’s wonderful wafting it in the air. It’s not so great sticking your nose into a tasting glass and whiffing it full force.

I couldn’t finish the tasting portion of 20 ml. It was too awful for me – too raw. But I kept it, to go back and refer to it as the base spirit, compared to the others as it ages.

3.2 Bourbon Cask, cask #645 (2016) – aged 5 years

After 5 years of maturing in a bourbon cask, the smells and tastes of a real whisky start to come forward. Peter accurately described what I thought – which is that the creamy, rich flavor really comes through now, when compared to the New Make Spirit. At 59.7% ABV, there’s citrusy and floral notes (George says its from the New Make Spirit – I disagree). Sometimes, you smell the peat smoke. But not always.

When going back to the New Make Spirit, Peter refers to the “farmyard feel” of it, and how that farmyard feel is being matured out, after 5 years. I guess that’s a good way to describe it. You can smell and taste it maturing into something nicer. For me, what’s interesting is – the deeper I smell the 2016, the more I smell hints of that malted barley / new make spirit, as if you’re smelling its heritage. I don’t get the spiciness that they hint at, but each person smells their own thing.

It pairs beautifully with the sea salt and lime, creamy milk chocolate. The guys suggested the chili venison chorizo to bring out the spiciness in the 2016 whisky.

3.3 Bourbon Cask, cask #203 (2011) – aged 10 years

This 10 year whisky is starting to smooth out, from the New Make Spirit and the 5 year whisky. When I first smelled it, it felt like I was smelling roses. (Later on, someone who commented on the live tasting validated this rose smell! Wait.. did I drunk comment and then forget? I am…6 whiskies and 1 new make spirit in…)

I digress. I waited, and as a little time passed the roses became a more sweet butterscotch. At 53.2% ABV, it’s quite light and really delicious.

George and Peter explained that there is a huge jump in maturation between the 5 year and 10 year whisky, as you really get the influence of the bourbon casks settling into the whisky. The 10 year is definitely much smoother, less smoky, and becoming very complex in its aromas and flavors.

3.4 Bourbon Cask, cask #4 (2006) – aged 15 years

Now that we’re at the last whisky, aged 15 years, I thought I’d share this photo (this time in order from youngest to oldest). You can see how the color changes, from the clear New Make Spirit, to darker and darker, the longer it sits in the barrel to mature. None of Kilchoman’s whiskies have added color, so the richness in the color toward the 15 year is all due to the oils in the bourbon casks! (FYI, the photo doesn’t represent how much whisky was in the tasting packs either. I may have just taken this photo after sipping out of the glass already!)

This whisky, being aged the longest, has the sweetest smell and taste. That tartness of the new make spirit is all gone, and its left with a sweet vanilla. Absolutely love this!

3.5 My parting thoughts on Through the Ages Feis Ile tasting pack

This tasting pack was really interesting for me. To be able to smell and taste a spirit going from its wee infancy as a new make spirit to 5 years to 10 years, all the way up to 15 years whisky, was pretty incredible. As someone who is still learning a lot about whiskies, you get to see how age really affects the maturation and taste of a whisky. Definitely, one of my favorite Kilchoman tastings so far!

4. 7:15 pm, Kilchoman Day – Experimental Cask Tastings

Last tasting of the day was at 7:15 pm, with Anthony Wills (Founder and Managing Director of Kilchoman Distillery) and his son George, who we were just with during the Through the Ages Tastings. Truth be told, 7 whiskies (and 1 new make spirit) in at this point, I did not drink the experimental cask tastings along with them. I draw the line at 7+1 (or 8) in one day. Well, I should’ve drawn the line earlier, but Feis Ile is only once a year. So, when there’s an Islay whisky festival, you drink as much as you can within reason.

A few years ago, the Scotch Whisky Association, which governs the rules around whisky production, relaxed the rules around cask types that distilleries are allowed to fill – previously being mainly bourbon and sherry casks. Kilchoman, which has an eye and a taste for innovation, immediately began experimenting with calvados, tequila, mezcal, cognac, and other types of casks. And while a lot of distilleries only do finishes in certain casks (having the majority of the maturation in the typical bourbon or sherry casks), Anthony was interested in full maturation in different cask types.

The underlying spirit in these experimental casks is the same as the New Make Spirit – the Port Ellen malt, which comes in at a peat level of 50 ppm. Having now tasted the farmyard fresh New Make Spirit, with the experimental casks, you really get to see how the cask influences the tastes and flavors of the whisky itself.

4.1 Calvados Cask, cask # 356 (2018) – aged 3 years

First up, the Calvados cask. Calvados is a type of pear or apple brandy from Normandy, France. At 62.1% ABV, the smell doesn’t immediately kick of alcohol, although there is a lingering hint of that “farmyard fresh” new make spirit. When Anthony and George drank it, they said it doesn’t have the alcohol burn that you’d normally have with a spirit that young (3 years).

But for me, OOF. The strength of the alcohol hit me immediately. It was all fire and burn. After drinking, and smelling it again, I was surprised to smell a bit of apple (which, luckily Anthony confirmed later!). Then again, it could be because I know it was matured in a pear or apple brandy cask. My mind immediately went to dried apples that you’d eat around autumn time, just as the weather is changing.

According to Anthony, this should age for a few more years before the flavor will be fully developed and matured. What a master!

4.2 Cognac Cask, cask #737 (2016) – aged 5 years

Cognac is a variety of brandy, produced around the Cognac region in France. Cognac, unlike Calvados, is distilled by fermenting grapes. At 58.4% ABV, it’s still a bit fiery but much sweeter. The extra 2 years of maturation brings out the sweetness from the casks a bit more. Anthony suggested this one is pretty close to being ready, thinking it could probably be done in 1 or more years.

The thing about experimental casks, is that you never know how long the perfect maturation time is. So, you gotta keep tasting it, and when you feel it’s ready, it’s ready.

4.3 STR Cask, cask #207 (2018) – aged 3 years

These STR casks are ex-Portguese red wine casks which are then shaved, toasted, and re-charred (STR) before being filled with whisky. Normally STR casks are ex-burgundy wine casks. However, the STR casks used at Kilchoman for this expression are ex-Portuguese red wine casks, which are medium charred. In the first nosing, the charring brings out the peat smoke. Anthony and George described it as having “summer fruit character”. For me, it was a bit sweeter, a little caramel and sometimes citrusy. But being aged only 3 years, I definitely the sensation of that farm fresh new make spirit.

At 61.5% ABV, the alcohol kick is not as much as I imagined. It’s quite smooth for being only 3 years. Out of the experimentals, this one is my favorite so far. Kilchoman is looking to add the STR casks to the core range in the next few years, so exciting things to look forward to! Let’s just hope it’s aged more than 3 years and that farmy fresh flavor is … overpowered by the cask!

4.4 Port Cask, cask #408 (2014) – aged 7 years

Port made by adding a grape spirit (usually brandy) to wine. Arguably one of my favorite things about Portugal, and when I last visited Lisbon in 2016, I was really excited that the experimental tasting included a port cask. A whisky aged in a port cask as part of the Kilchoman tastings? Sign me up!

At 57.3% ABV, this one felt stronger than the other higher alcohol content whiskies. To me, it makes sense because when I drink port, it too always surprises me how strong it is.

4.5 My parting thoughts on the Experimental Cask Feis Ile tasting pack

I thoroughly enjoyed this tasting pack! With the relaxing of the whisky rules, it seems like there are going to be new and exciting things coming to the whisky industry, given a little longer maturation. To me, I absolutely loved the STR cask whisky, having a bit more of that peat taste that I do love about Islay whiskies. But the having the experimental cask tastings be at the end of Kilchoman Day of Feis Ile, you got to use your learnings from the the different tastings and tours.

For me, now knowing the smell and taste of the New Make Spirit, it becomes very obvious in the tastings of the 3 year old whiskies. But having the influence of different types casks, i.e. the calvados, port, STR or cognac, it lends its own flavors and characteristics to the whisky.

This was such a fun tasting! And to see this “behind the scenes” into Kilchoman’s experimental casks, the thought process behind the selection of the type of casks, how long it should continue to be matured, and where Kilchoman’s experimental casks will go from here – it was really, just so much fun!

5. Conclusions on my first Feis Ile

I genuinely had a great time with all of these Kilchoman tastings! Having revisited old friends in the core range / DNA tastings, and learning new and innovative facets of cask maturation, I can see why Feis Ile is so fun for whisky drinkers – new and connoisseurs alike! The selection of these Kilchoman tastings were so smart, so eye-opening. Having now done a fair amount of whisky tastings, I can genuinely say that I learned the most through the succession of Kilchoman tastings I did on Kilchoman Day!

It was a wonderfully curated virtual Kilchoman Day. For those able to visit either for next year’s Islay Whisky Festival or even for a short break out to Islay, I would highly recommend a visit to Kilchoman Distillery – Islay’s Farm Distillerty.

Until you’re able to visit Kilchoman in person, here’s a wee reel I made for Instagram during my last visit to the distillery. Thank you to Kilchoman for gifting me these delightful tasting packs! And thank you everyone for reading along on my first (virtual) Feis Ile experience! Always remember to drink responsibly! Slàinte Mhath!

Kilchoman Distillery
Rockside Farm,
Bruichladdich, Isle of Islay PA49 7UT
Phone: +44 1496 850011

For the whisky buffs or enthusiastic learners, to view all the live Kilchoman tastings on YouTube:

• DNA Tasting
• Through the Ages Tasting
• Experimental Cask Tasting

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Disclaimer: I was gifted the SMWS April Tasting pack by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. (Thank you!) However, I am under no obligation to enjoy the whiskies. All the opinions contained in this post are my own. Additionally, I am an affiliate of the SMWS. Affiliate links in this post are in green, for which I may earn a small commission, if you choose to purchase from it.

Also, the April Tasting Pack is now sold out, but there are other virtual (and now in-person tastings!)

Although I’ve visited and done tours and tastings at four whisky distilleries around Scotland, that’s nothing compared to the hundreds that exist!  I am in no way a whisky expert, but I’m enthusiastic and learning.  This post is written for people like me – who have interest in whisky, but not necessarily the nose and experience to be considered a connoisseur.

So if you’re a whisky expert, this post is probably a little basic for you.  But first, a brief intro.

1. Brief Introduction to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Ironically, in 2018, I did a whisky tasting and haggis pairing at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society member rooms in Edinburgh, so I’m not stranger to the organization. 

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) is a membership organization or club for people who love… you guessed it! Single malt scotch whiskies.  (Me!)  They have member rooms in Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London, as well as partner whisky bars globally.

Something that I find really interesting about SMWS whiskies is that the distilleries are anonymized.  The spirits are bottled, labelled, and named into something different.  Each whisky is identified by two numbers (corresponding to the distillery and the cask number), a color code for the taste profile, and a fun, sometimes cheeky, description.  As an example, one of the whiskies we will taste is: 48.118 Trekking in the Jungle. 

Wait, does Scotland have a jungle?  Um, no.  So, don’t take the names too seriously. 

Not only that, all Scotch Malt Whisky Society whiskies are “bottled from a single cask, at cask strength with no water or colouring added and with no chill filtration.” (From the Scotch Malt Whisky Society website)

So, now that you’re all experts… onto the whiskies!

2. SMWS April Tasting Pack

The SMWS tasting pack came with 5 whiskies, with really fun names, as well as a little envelope containing cards with the tasting notes and details about the spirit itself.

And now, onto the 5 whiskies.

48.118 Trekking in the jungle
82.31 Give free rein to the imagination
26.160 Fruit market – candy store
G8.17 Candles, kumquats and polished oak
42.52 Wood smoke through a porthole

3. The Three Distilleries Path on Islay

I decided a fun way to to get to know my new home and these 5 whiskies would be to do the tastings while walking along the Three Distilleries Walk on Islay. Arguably, it’s one of the best walks on Islay, with views of the sea and plenty of sheep to keep you company! For those cyclists, don’t worry – it’s also a cycle path, so biking along the path is allowed!

The Three Distilleries Pathway runs on the southern part of Islay, between Port Ellen and Ardbeg. Since I knew I would be drinking, I decided to take the bus to Ardbeg Distillery and walk back.

Some quick facts about the path:

• The path is 6 miles, there and back (trail map);
• It is a paved path, along the right side of the main road;
• The 3 distilleries that you come across are (in the order I did it): Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig – hello peaty Islay whiskies, and world famous distilleries!
  • If you have the time, you’re always welcome to stop off and do some distillery tours along the walk!
  • Check the distilleries’ websites to confirm whether booking needs to be done in advance or whether they are running tours or tastings;
• It’s a nice distance between each stop:
  • Ardbeg to Lagavulin: 1 km / 0.6 mi
  • Lagavulin to Laphroaig: 1.6 km / 1 mi
  • Laphroaig to Port Ellen 1.6 km / 1 mi
• It’s a one way path, so the return trip would obviously be double. Or, do what I did and take the bus for one way!

Somewhere, there’s 2 km missing if you add it up, but by the time 5 whiskies are down, I don’t think you’ll care. It’s an easy going walk, with nice paved pathways. And there are plenty of benches along the way to sit back, and enjoy the view (or a whisky). There is one small hill between Laphroaig and Port Ellen, but besides that, it’s relatively flat.

Get your bearings straight with an Ordnance Survey map of South Islay!

Do note that the three distilleries (Ardbeg Distillery, Lagavulin Distillery, and Laphroaig Distillery) are not affiliated with my SMWS tasting. But I love being able to do the walk and to visit the outside of these magical places!

4. Scotch whisky tasting along the Three Distilleries Path on Islay

Besides the tasting pack itself, I brought a pipette (and some water) and a Glencairn glass, to help bring out the flavors and aromas.

For the full play by play on my three distilleries, SWMS tasting adventure, I’ve included it in my Instagram highlights. Only people with an Instagram account can view.

And then I was off!

4.1 Cask No. G8.17 Candles, Kumquats and Polished Oak.

The first of the SWMS April Tasting Pack I tried was Candles, Kumquats and Polished Oak. The tasting profile calls it “old and dignified.”

Region: Lowland
Cask: Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
Age: 31 years
ABV: 59.7%

Upon smelling it, that polished oak really comes through. It was almost a surprise how closely it smelled like polished oak. But on the taste, it was definitely sweet, some citrusy kumquats – maybe some honey. Tastes nice, but the smell wasn’t for me.

4.2 Cask No. 26.160 Fruit market – candy store

The second whisky I tasted was Fruit market – candy store. The tasting profile calls it “juicy, oak and vanilla.”

Region: Highland
Cask: 2nd fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 9 years
ABV: 56.7%

The tasting notes said the aroma was full of fruits (green apples, pineapple, gooseberries). The palate itself was definitely sweet. SMWS suggested tastes of honey, banoffee pie, nougat, orange pastilles – but with spice hints.

Definitely, the smell was extremely fruity and sweet. But what was wild was the taste – it tasted like banana candy! You know that banana candy flavor. For the nostalgic Americans out there, it was like the Runts banana candy flavor. A little too sweet for my whisky palate, but interesting. Enjoyable.

Onward! To Lagavulin!

At Lagavulin, there is a nice wooden path that leads to a gazebo overlooking Lagavulin Bay. From there, you can catch views of the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle, which previously served as the naval base of the Lord of the Isles!

4.3 Cask No. 42.52 Wood smoke through a porthole

When I first opened the SMWS April Tasting Pack, and I saw the description of “wood smoke through a porthole,” I knew I was going to do this tasting at Laphroaig.

Laphroaig’s whiskies have often been described as super smoky and peaty. To take a direct quote off of their Opinions Welcome, 200 Anniversary Wall, it’s:

Like licking a peat stove’s ashtray, but less frowned upon.

Neel Van Hossel

So, with that roundabout introduction, Wood Smoke through a Port Hole. Tasting profile “Peated.”

Region: Highland
Cask: Refill ex-bourbon hogshead
Age: 13 years
ABV: 58.3%

This is my “OOF! This is smoky” face. (Actual reaction)

If you can still count at this point, we’ve done all three distilleries and 3 out of 5 whiskies!

4.4 Cask No. 82.31 Give free rein to the imagination

A “spicy and sweet” whisky for the 4th whisky, and my face getting redder and redder.

Region: Highland
Cask: 2nd fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 9 years
ABV: 61.9% !!!!!!!

I can see why this is categorized in the spicy and sweet profile – it was both of those. Although, I’d probably say it was sweeter than spicy. The little hint of spice only came in at the finish. But, with this one being so high in alcohol (nearly 62%!!!!), and the fact that I was already tipsy from the others, the strong alcohol content was kind of a kick to the face! (More of a kick to the face than the Wood Fire through a Port Hole!) Intense!

I had to take a break following the 4th whisky. So let me just insert some random photos from along the way. Lots of gorgeous sea views, and of course, sheep.

4.5 Cask No. 48.118 Trekking in the jungle

The last dram in the SMWS April Tasting Pack is Trekking in the Jungle. By that time, I had already reached Port Ellen, the official end of the Three Distilleries Path, and also, my home village. I don’t think public consumption is allowed within the village itself (not 100% sure) so I decided to err on the side of caution and take the last whisky home!

So, Trekking in the Jungle had a taste profile of “young and spritely.” As someone who may or may not self-describe as “young(ish) and spritely” themselves, I was really excited to taste this one.

Region: Speyside
Cask: 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel
Age: 7 years
ABV: 60.6%

I’m going to actually include the notes on the card, because it’s so… unique.

“We made cilantro mint chutney using Greek style natural yoghurt, fresh cilantro, ginger, jalapeno, garlic, mint and lemon juice to accompany our vegetable samosas. On the palate neat we had Kendal mint cake, that sugar-based confection flavoured with peppermint, popular among British climbers as a source of energy. In our case however they were laced with chilli flakes for an extra oomph. After the addition of water we imagined walking through mountain grassland, a cooling herbal, green, fresh breeze as we gathered strength for our ascent to a snow-capped mountain peak. Having reached the top we cooked on a tiny gas stove a delicious tom yam soup.”

I know what you’re thinking. All this, in a whisky?? Your skepticism is not unfounded. Everything as described as above… cilantro mint chutney, veggie samosas, tom yum soup. I’m all for it. But not in a whisky. I’m not sure if the description clouded my taste, or that the taste itself was not to my liking. Either way, this turned out to be my least favorite.

But maybe you like eating a savory meal in your whisky. Everyone is different, and that’s ok!

5. Parting thoughts on SMWS April Tasting Pack

All in all, the tasting pack was really fun! I loved the unique expressions, which came in all different flavors and aromas. Not only that, the difference in the ages ranged from a 7-year whisky to one aged 31-years. I’m not sure what the oldest whisky I’ve tried was, but it was nowhere near 31 years, until now.

Out of the 5 whiskies, there were 3 Highland whiskies, 1 Speyside, and 1 Lowland whisky. I guess since there are 5 whisky regions, with Campbeltown and Islay being the other two, I hoped for one dram from each region. So in that respect, I was a little disappointed that their peated selection came from the Highlands, and not Islay itself – which is renowned for their peated whiskies.

The heavy ABV content was kind of a surprise. Then again, all of them are undiluted cask strength whiskies. I didn’t drink the full tasting bottles for each whisky. But even then, after 5 tastings, I was definitely drunk.

Of course, there is the option not to drink the whiskies, but to spit it out. But, why would I do that? No, these are phenomenal whiskies. Too good to spit out.

As you can see, I had a really fun time on the Three Distilleries Path with my SMWS April Tasting Pack. If anyone is looking for something fun to do, maybe you want to try your own whisky tasting from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

And hope you all enjoyed seeing a little bit of my new home through the Three Distilleries Path on Islay! Until next time, stay safe, and Slàinte Mhath! 

6. Info on ordering your own SMWS April Tasting Pack

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society regularly hosts virtual and in-person whisky tastings for its members. In case you’re curious about membership, I’ve detailed all the ins and outs of memberships, here.

For information on ordering your SMWS tasting or joining as a member:

Tasting Pack costs: 30 – 35£ – click to order a different tasting pack!
SMWS Annual Membership (UK): 85£ – click to join!

Disclaimer: I was gifted the SMWS April Tasting pack by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. (Thank you!) However, I am under no obligation to enjoy the whiskies. All the opinions contained in this post are my own. Additionally, I am an affiliate of the SMWS. Affiliate links in this post are in green, for which I may earn a small commission, if you choose to purchase from it.

For more ideas on your travel to Islay:

• consider staying at Glenegedale House, recently voted Scotland’s most hospitable B&B;
• or the Port Charlotte Hotel, which has a famous whisky bar and delicious food in their restaurant;
• my post on the best things to do on Islay!
• Looking for another whisky walk? Try the Bruichladdich / Loch Indaal Way! You’ll pass by Bruichladdich Distillery along the way 🙂
• Or perhaps, take a guided small group tour to Islay, and relax the whole way!

Need directions to Islay? I’ve broken it down in these two posts:

• How to get to Islay from Glasgow – using the bus and the ferry!
• Or, if you’re coming from Northern Ireland, there are seasonal sailings from Ballycastle to Port Ellen. Doable as a day trip from Belfast!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

{For those who want to pronounce it properly like I always do, break it up into 4 syllables and say: GLEN-egg-uh-DALE. House. Glenegedale House. Got it?}

1. The lure of Glenegedale House

I first became acquainted with Glenegedale House through social media. In early 2020, Glenegedale House won Visit Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. The award definitely caught my attention. Although I was not looking for the best luxury accommodation on Islay, when I found it, need I look further?

When I travel, amazing hospitality is just one of those things that I specifically look for. And for a place to win an award specific to its hospitality, well, let’s just say I put a little mental note in my brain to visit and stay at Glenegedale House sometime in the near future!

Several hours of internet lurking and months of obsessing over their Instagram, I discovered that they were famous for their baking. Fresh, warm pastries at breakfast, coffee and cakes for afternoon tea. Over covid lockdown, they also sold tray bakes and other baked goods out of an honesty box on their grounds.

2. My Islay bed and breakfast decision

I consulted with one of my friends, who works for a drinks company with a distillery on Islay. She solidified the choice of Islay as a holiday, but also Glenegedale House as the place to stay while on Islay. She visited a few years back and stayed for one night. Any guesses where that one night was?

Glenegedale House.

She told me that if I was looking for a low key Scottish island, with hiking opportunities and interesting things to see, Islay was the place for me. And if I were looking to be well fed with baked goods and taken care of by the best proprietress, Glenegedale House was the luxury accommodation on Islay that I had to choose.

Let’s have a bit of a recap: When you go stay at Glenegedale House, you get the full experience of hospitality, including someone making you fresh baked goods 24-7. I think you can all get on board with that.

Now that I’ve introduced its baked goods, let me properly introduce you to this luxury accommodation on Islay – Glenegedale House.

3. How to get to Glenegedale House

The bed and breakfast is located in the south of the Island, just across the street from the Islay airport. It is less than a 10 minute drive from Port Ellen, which has one of the island’s main ferry ports.

• From Port Ellen, take the A846 northwest leaving town. After a weird left and a right to stay on A846, you’ll go straight on A846. When you see the airport on your left, Glenegedale House is on your right.

• From Port Askaig (the other ferry terminal on Islay), you can either follow A846 south all the way to Glenegedale House (approx 25 – 30 minutes). You’ll pass through Bowmore on the way.

Or you can take the funner way from Port Askaig, which is heading south on A846 and then after Bridgend (8.5 miles), turn left onto B8016. After 6 miles of straight, uninterrupted road, you’ll see a sign for Glenegedale and you’ll turn right. This also takes approximately 25-30 minutes, but trust me – it’s much funner drive this way.

4. Arriving to my luxury accommodation on Islay

I arrived to Islay from the ferry port in Port Askaig. The ferry was supposed to arrive around 2:30 PM, but was slightly delayed in leaving the Scottish mainland. The day before, Emma from Glenegedale emailed asking what time I would check in. Even though it only takes 30 minutes to get from Port Askaig to Glenegedale, I told her I’d arrive at 4 PM.

Why 4 PM? I always want to add in extra time to get lost, find my way, or stop for refreshments. Without getting lost and beaming of the pride of punctuality, I arrived at 3:57 PM.

Unbeknownst to me, I was Glenegedale’s first guest after Scotland’s first lockdown ended in July 2020.

4.1 Glenegedale House’s COVID-19 Preparedness

Speaking of the large, ugly pandemic in the room, I should firstly say that the standard of everything at Glenegedale House is so high that you should not worry about covid preparedness.

But in case you’d like to know specifically, here are the measures Glenegedale House has taken to ensure their guests are safe!

1. Certified as “We’re Good to Go!” by Visit Scotland;
2. Hand sanitizing stations at doors and located inside;
3. Masks on during welcoming a guest;
4. Some kind of anti-virus sanitization spray for the furniture and rooms, after a guest uses the area.

During my stay, I never once felt that things were not sanitized properly. It is very clear that those in the tourism and hospitality industries take COVID-19 precautionary measures extremely seriously. So try to relax and let the hospitality of a luxury accommodation on Islay envelop you.

4.2 A welcome with Baked Goods

When I first arrived, I was brought into their sitting room some rest and an Islay chat with Emma, my hostess. We are just chit chatting along about Islay and whiskies and my love of Scotland when all of a sudden, out comes this gorgeous tray of fine china and silver with my coffee.

Followed in very close succession by another tray with something to pair with the coffee, of course:

Coffee and Hazelnut Cake
&
Hamlyn Oats and Blueberry Flapjacks, with a Kilchoman Saligo Bay Whisky Drizzle

Are you just sitting there and salivating right now? That would make two of us! Both were made fresh that day, by Emma, our hostess with the mostest. And, in case you needed to me to specifically say, it was absolutely delicious!!

5. My Room at Glenegedale House

I stayed in Room 2 at Glenegedale – a Double Room with ensuite facilities (i.e. a private bathroom and shower). The cost of 198 GBP a night (or approximately $275 USD) includes both bed and breakfast. And, as you’ll see shortly, THE BREAKFAST IS PHENOMENAL.

Back to the room!

Imagine laying in bed with warm wool and tweed all around you, maybe it’s a sunny day outside or maybe it’s a little dreich… watching the sea from the window, while snuggling in bed.

I loved the soft grey and heather colors of the tweed and wool. The thick, native Scottish fabrics made the room sooooo warm and inviting. Considering that it was quite chilly and brisk in July, you’ll want that extra warmth!

But not only that, I absolutely loved the gorgeous wallpaper from Timorous Beasties. Fun fact, I already knew about Timorous Beasties and lusted after that thistle wallpaper even before I visited! Does that mean me and Glenegedale House are a match made in interior decorating heaven? ABSOLUTELY.

Glenegedale House carries toiletries from ARRAN Sense of Scotland, from neighboring Isle of Arran. The chosen scent, “After the Rain,” is a warm and refreshing mix of lime, rose and sandalwood. Their products are cruelty free and environmentally friendly!

My washroom had a shower and not a bathtub. The pressure was high and the water was hot. No complaints here!

5.1 Amenities in my Room

Maybe this is a little known fact about me – I bring coffee with me everywhere I go. That means, I’m alway looking coffee making facilities in the room.

Fear not, the room comes with all of the following:

• armoire and chest of drawers for your clothes,
• kettle and mugs (with coffee, tea, and all the trimmings),
• a TV (but I never watched),
• and a full length mirror which was glorious.

In case I didn’t mention it before, free WiFi and free parking is also included!

6. The Food and Drinks at Glenegedale House

Ok, I know I teased you with the coffee cake and blueberry flapjacks. You all must know that if I’m foreshadowing some epic food, it should live up to expectations.

For Emma, food is her way of sharing her passion for Islay and Scotland. You can taste the warmth and hospitality in each bite. When creating recipes, she tries to use local Islay ingredients and products. If local products from Islay are not available, she selects ingredients from local producers in Argyll and Bute, and then Scotland, and then finally broad UK-British brands and products. And you’ll see this in the food I highlight below. If she can support local businesses, she will.

Breakfast is obviously provided, and beginning in 2021, Glenegedale House also began offering dinner options. Do note that there are no lunch options. However, they can prepare a picnic basket if you’re looking to do that!

6.1 Breakfast offers at Glenegedale House

Pre-pandemic breakfast at Glenegedale House was a vast and lush buffet that people regularly rave about online. The buffet is no longer. But, if you think that removing a buffet means less food, you are absolutely wrong!

Breakfast is served between 7 – 8 am, also known as the absolute perfect time for breakfast. Retreating back into bed with a full belly is not only a good idea, it may even be recommended.

First up, baked goods. Each morning there are warm, straight-out-of-the-oven baked delights in a variety of shapes and flavors. During time my there, Emma delighted me every morning with my cup of coffee and the following baked goods:

1. Apricot and almond muffins;
2. Banana bread;
3. Fig and walnut bread.

Amazing tip for solo travelers – you still get 2 muffins and 2 pieces of fresh bread in the morning, same as the couple next to you. Basically, the one time known to mankind where being a solo traveler gives you some kind of a benefit! (ok, I digress…)

From then, you can take a gander at the breakfast menu for their mains:

1. Smoked Salmon and Scrambled Eggs – Argyll Salmon smoked in Campbeltown with some of our own Glenegedale hen eggs scrambled with creme fraiche and a little salt and pepper and a slice of homemade brown bread;
2. Full Hebridean Breakfast – Smoked Ayrshire bacon, Glenegedale hen eggs (fried poached or scrambled), pork and herb sausage made by our local butcher in Bowmore, ove roasted tomato, Ramsay’s of Carluke Haggis, mushroom and a wee dish of Heinz baked beans;
3. Cheese Platter – A selection of cheese, served with a little fruit, homemade oatcakes, and a wee dish of chutney;
4. Eggs and Soldiers – 1 or 2 boiled eggs done as you like, with some freshly toasted bread to tip.

Or if a simple porridge and cream is your thing (or oatmeal for us Americans!), they also have Scotts Porridge Oats made slowly with water, served with cream and whisky (Laphroaig 10) on the side!

For a full Islay bed and breakfast experience, I would recommend the Full Hebridean Breakfast, paired with a side of porridge and whisky. For those who don’t know what Hebridean breakfast is, it’s your tried and true Scottish breakfast, but with ingredients from the Hebrides.

They also make their own poached fruits that go deliciously with the porridge. For me, it was plums with vanilla and cinnamon, rhubarb with root ginger, and pears with ginger and cloves. Sound too good to be true? Absolutely!

See how glorious Glenegedale House breakfasts are??

6.2 Dinners

Nowadays, dinner can be booked at Glenegedale House 6 nights a week. You can also do a meat and cheese board separate from their dinners.

At least once a week, there will be a seafood platter night. I would highly recommend ordering the seafood platter, as it is absolutely stunning! We’ll get to the seafood platter in a bit. For me, did I have both charcuterie and seafood platters (on different nights)? Obviously I did.

Have I also sampled dinners at Glenegedale House on my staycation stay there? Of course I did. I’ll give you a wee look into the dinners I’ve had at Glenegedale House.

6.2.1 Dinner at Glenegedale House

So far, I’ve had three delightful dinners with Emma and Graeme, two during my staycation and one as a guest of a guest a few weeks later. The quality of food is absolutely phenomenal and I genuinely enjoyed dining there!! Some things that you’ll see in the photos below:

• hand dived Islay scallop mornay (with melted, Isle of Mull cheddar);
• Dunlossit venison steak, with junipery Lussa Gin and Cairnmore Bay jus;
• Argyll smoked salmon tartare, with Lagavulin wild garlic pesto. The smoked salmon (smoked by Argyll smokery) has been smoked over Islay whisky barrel shavings, specifically for Glenegedale House!
• creme brulee with fresh raspberries and mint.

Some items not shown include Scottish cornfed chicken breast stuffed with cheese and herbs, along with sticky toffee pudding (my absolute favorite Scottish desert)!

6.2.2 The Meat and Cheese Board

The amazing thing about this charcuterie board are the deliciously local ingredients. We had meat and cheeses from Islay, the Isle of Mull, the Isle of Gigha, and New Lanark (on the mainland). Scottish food at its finest!

Also, the delicious oatcakes are Emma’s own recipe made from the peaty grist from Laphroaig! See how whisky pairs with basically everything?

For the baking savvy wanting to try to make Emma’s Hamlyn Oats and Laphroaig oatcakes, give it a try! For extra fun, she did a cooking demonstration recently on Facebook Live and walks you through the easy recipe!

6.2.3 The Seafood Board

Emma knew that I wanted to have a seafood dinner during one of my evenings. She suggested that I eat it on S & B’s last night (the other guests staying at Glenegedale), so that we could all enjoy our seafood dinners together. Having been to Kilchoman’s beach whisky tasting with S&B (and had delightful conversation over breakfasts and in passing), I thought that was a wonderful suggestion and happily agreed.

Before I get to the actual seafood dinner, I should give a brief intro into my excitement level leading up to this meal. Even though I was born in a landlocked state, I’m pretty confident that island life is for me. Everything about living on an island speaks to me – the water, the sand, the sun, the landscape. The food. But, specifically, the fresh seafood. My love of seafood is only outweighed by my ignorance at preparing it myself. I’ll need to work on this…

Back to this seafood dinner. So, island gal at heart, eyes sparkling, when this arrives:

If you’re confused at this, don’t be – this is 1 person’s portion. Even now, months later, I’m still rendered speechless at the sight of this.

(Internal dialogue – get it together and say something!)

Suffice it to really say, we all enjoyed ourselves immensely. The dinner had lots of laughter, so much warmth, and (at least for me) periods of standing up to make room for dessert.

Although I regularly boast about how much I can eat, I simply could not eat everything on this platter. Plus, there was still dessert! A delectable chocolate and Lagavulin mousse.

Emma suggested I make a sandwich for tomorrow’s lunch. Crab salad sandwich with all the fixings, here I come! Not to worry folks. If not for the crab sandwich, the chickens get the leftovers. So nothing goes to waste!

7. Glenegedale House – the farm

Since I spent so much time at Glenegedale House, the family thought it would be fun for me to go on a walk with their son, Cameron, as he feeds the animals. Cameron, a newly joined and super excited vet student, took me to see their baby chickens and sheep.

For those of us city slickers who don’t realize, raising animals can include submitting them into competitions (which may or may not include photo shoots with hair dryers and floofing), selling fertilized eggs online during the pandemic (so people can hatch chicks), sheering the wool off of sheep (which cost more than the wool itself), and putting trays and trays of fresh eggs in the honesty box out front.

All of this is new to me, and as Cameron unveils this secret world, I put together the pieces of the chicken photo shoot puzzle.

The day before, Emma told a story that she just got off a Zoom call when she sees her kids walk out back with a hair dryer and a brush. She doesna wanna know. And now, Cameron, talking about primping a chicken for a competition.

In fairness, it is a beautiful chicken.

When I refer to “the farm”, I mean that in actuality. In addition to chickens, roosters, and sheep, Glenegedale House also has a pair of horses. You’ll always cross paths with Millie, their daughter, with her shy smile on her horse.

All of these are delightful sights and experiences for someone who spends most of their time in cities (or conflict zones!). Not to mention, who doesn’t want to hold baby chicks while on holiday???

8. Things to do near Glenegedale House

Islay is a small island, sizewise. The below list is just showing what is within the vicinity of Glenegedale House. For other places on the island, which are easily accessible by car or bus from Glenegedale, I have written about them in other posts, here and here. Feel free to check it out!

8.1 Port Ellen

Port Ellen (actually pronounced POR-tellen) is one of the bustling towns on Islay – the other being Bowmore. You can find everything you need in Port Ellen – the post office, grocery stores, a gas station, and some delightful small businesses. In fact, Port Ellen may even be your first stop on Islay from the CalMac ferry.

I’m only listing my favorite businesses in Port Ellen below – there will be more soon, but I didn’t manage to visit during covid times!

8.1.1 Sea Salt Bistro

One of your meals on Islay has to be at Sea Salt Bistro. And I absolutely insist on this. Gorgeously fresh seafood, amazing service, and unforgettable food!

Do I still think of this seafood linguini every single day? Obviously, yes.

8.1.2 The Blue Letterbox

The Blue Letterbox is combination post office and gift shop, and is a must-visit for gifts from your stay in Port Ellen. The shop proudly showcases items from local producers from Islay, as well as nearby Colonsay and Jura.

For me, a couple of tea towels and some sea glass jewelry.

But not only that, there was a snafu when I visited – the Blue Letterbox also does currency exchange from USD to GBP when there are issues with the bank or ATM!

8.2 Distilleries near Glenegedale House

Islay currently has 9 distilleries, with three of them within walking distance of Port Ellen town! Not only are these the closest distilleries to Glenegedale House, but they’re also the three that comprise the Three Distilleries Walk. During that walk, you come by the southern Islay distilleries:

• Laphroaig – the super peated favorite of Outlander star, Sam Heughan,
• Lagavulin – a peated favorite of Parks and Rec star, Nick Offerman,
• Ardbeg – a distillery and whisky that is new to me! I have an unopened bottle of Ardbeg, An Oa, waiting for me.

You can also visit all of the distilleries individually, and by car. Don’t worry – if you’re the designated driver (or going solo like I do!) you can attend the tour and enjoy the tasting (more the smells, and perhaps a little sip). Your whiskies will come in a nifty to-go bottle so you can enjoy it later.

If you’re not a drinker, don’t worry – the walk is a delight in itself! But for me, I’m looking forward to visiting all three of these and learning more about their rich Islay and scotch history!

You also don’t need to walk there and back – take the bus! or call for a taxi! The walk is good to work off your whisky tastings and food you’ve eaten at one of the distilleries delicious restaurants!

Even though this is not a full distillery, it will be very soon! The old Port Ellen Distillery was first established as a malt mill in 1825 (with a stint in the middle distilling whisky). It was recently announced by Diageo that they would re-open Port Ellen as a whisky distillery. I think COVID has pushed back those plans, but keep your eyes open! Spirits coming soon.

8.3 The Big Strand Beach

Ok, everyone wants to stay at a place with a view, but what about a beach within walking distance?

I give you – the Big Strand Beach. Within walking distance of Glenegedale House. The best start to your morning, the best idea during your day, the best way to wind down for your evening.

8.4 Hike around the American Monument and the Mull of Oa

The Mull of Oa (pronounced “oh” haha) is a peninsula in the southwest of Islay. Located in between Glenegedale House and Port Ellen, it’s a nice afternoon hike out to the cliffs and the American Monument. You can even glimpse some highland coos up on the way to the monument. 

The American Monument, built in 1920 on the Mull of Oa, commemorates the loss of two American troop ships in 1918, bound for WWI. It sits on the edge of some cliffs on the southern part of Islay.

It’s a really nice walk up to the American Monument. Part of the way includes wooden planks, because of the (surely) wet and boggy lands.

8.5 Historical Sites near Glenegedale House

8.5.1 Dunyvaig Castle

Located on the shores of Lagavulin Bay is the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle. The castle was once the naval base of the Lord of the Isles. It was held by the chiefs of the Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg, a branch of Clan Donald.

Though it’s possible to get to the castle itself (I didn’t), I understand that it’s a little precarious, due to some rocks. You can, but be careful!

8.5.2 Kildalton Cross

The Kildalton Cross is monolithic high cross in the form of a cross, located in the churchyard of a former parish church of Kildalton (pronounced Kil-DAL-ton). Let’s break down that description a bit,

• monolithic means it was formed by a singular, large block of stone;
• the term high cross describes a free-standing Christian cross, which is often highly decorated;
• a Celtic cross describes a Christian cross, with a ring, which was popularized in the early Middle Ages.

What makes the Kildalton Cross so special is that it was carved in the early 8th century AD, and (according to Wikipedia) is considered the finest surviving Celtic cross in Scotland, and “one of the most perfect monuments of its date to survive on Western Europe.”

Gorgeous deer with stnning eyelashes on my way to Kildaton Cross. Same deer, different lens.

8.6 Other notables on Islay (and neighboring Jura!)

As I said earlier, Islay is not a big island. While the above is just a list of things to do near Glenegedale House, everything on the island is easily accessible, anywhere you stay. The below list of places stood out to me, as places I would definitely visit again next time on Islay, and places I’d love to visit once they’ve re-opened for COVID times.

8.6.1 Bowmore

• Spirited Soaps! A locally owned soap shop, which includes Islay and Jura spirits in their soaps and personal care products.
• Peatzeria – need I say more from the name?
• Bowmore Distillery – the named after Bowmore, the capital of Islay. Can you think of a more classic whisky than a delicious Bowmore?

8.6.2 Rhinns of Islay and the Western side of the island

• Port Charlotte Hotel – an amazing bed and breakfast, with a famous whisky pub and live music!
• Bruichladdich Distillery – with their famous light blue bottling and Octomore, heavily peated brand,
• Kilchoman Distillery – Islay’s farm distillery – they grow most of their own barley and have a traditional malting floor!
• Portnahaven – fishing village, with views of the lighthouse and the place for seal sighting!

8.6.3 The Northern part of the island

• Caol Ila Distillery – the main spirit inside Johnnie Walker’s Black Label! Whisky lovers, did you know that?? Currently closed for renovations;
• Bunnahabhain Distillery – another whisky that I know very little about, and am excited to learn more! If you happen to visit the distillery, I hear there is a shipwreck on the beach nearby!
• Ardnahoe Distillery – Islay’s newest distillery! Their whiskies are in the process of maturing right now, but the distillery and shop have a delicious cafe, with a gorgeous view out to Jura.

8.6.4 Nearby Jura

• Lussa Gin – continue your hunt for great spirits (with great stories) on the neighboring island of Jura!
• Jura Distillery – visit the distillery, whose whisky was a source of comfort through first lockdown! Jura, the Sound, was the last bottle I picked up at duty free on my way to lockdown.
• The Jura Hotel – I didn’t get to visit during my time on Jura, but I hear their venison burgers are the highlight! Definitely coming back next time!
• Visit Barnhill – where George Orwell isolated himself and wrote 1984. It’s located off of a private drive (and involves a hike if you want to see the house ).

8.6.5 Map for your Islay holiday

9. Parting Thoughts on Glenegedale House

I was so happy to stay at Glenegedale House during my first trip to Islay, and again when I needed a little staycation. There are so many things that I loved! From Graeme and Emma’s kind and warm hospitality, to the constant flow of fresh baked goods, hot coffees, and rich whiskies. They were the kind of hosts that make you feel like family, rather than a visiting guest!

Emma’s smile and laughs are extremely contagious and can fill any room. They were always quick to help (i.e. my bank snafu) or get another whisky (“in 2 shakes”, as Emma always says). And they give the best itinerary suggestions if you haven’t fully researched your trip yet!

There is a reason Glenegedale House won Scotland’s Most Hospitable B&B Award. It is truly a wonderful place to stay, and the best luxury accommodation on Islay!

10. Important details for your stay at Glenegedale House

Glenegedale House
Isle of Islay
Argyll, PA42 7AS

Contact:
Email: info@glenegedalehouse.co.uk
Tel: +44 01496 300 400
Mob: +44 07554 669 664

Due to covid, Glenegedale House has flexible booking terms. Send them a note if you have questions! And follow them on Social Media below!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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