Here is a little slow travel post on spending a few days on the Isle of Iona.

1. Brief Introduction to the Isle of Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. Iona is a small island, only about 1 mile wide by 3 miles long, and is home to about 130 permanent residents. For visitors, vehicles aren’t allowed onto the island, so there’s an unspoken charm that comes with that. When you arrive to Iona via the short 10 minute ferry from Mull, you’ll be directly in “the village”, Baile Mòr, which is the main settlement. But since it’s the only settlement on Iona, everyone just calls it the village.

Iona has been inhabited since 6000 BC and increased in popularity after St. Columba came to Iona in 563 AD following his exile from Ireland. Saint Columba is known for bringing Christianity to Scotland and subsequently, Iona is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity. Following Columba’s arrival to Iona, he founded the Iona Abbey which still stands as a place of worship to this day. During his lifetime, Columba was known to perform various miracles, such as healing people or expelling evil spirits. I think it’s for this reason people come to Iona, hoping for a miracle, hoping to be healed.

If legends are to be believed, Columba had seen the Loch Ness Monster back in 565, and banished the great “water beast” to the depths of the River Ness.

Many people come to Iona to visit Iona Abbey and bask in the magic and miracles that once imbued St. Columba and his followers. To this day, people still make the pilgrimage to Iona out of hope or desperation seeking some sort of comfort. It was that search for hope and comfort that brought me to Iona the first time.

2. Day trip to Iona vs. a few days on Iona

Since my first visit to Iona, I’ve returned many times and have always stayed a few days each time. Having chatted with many visitors there, so many people feel the pull of Iona and keep returning over the years or even decades. I guess I’m now one of those people.

Unfortunately, due to travel itineraries and schedules, most people only do a day trip over to Iona. If you have time or enjoy slow travel, I would highly recommend considering Iona as a stop versus a day trip, just because most of the magic happens without the day tripping crowds.

During the day, the island heaves with day trippers, crowding into the abbey or filling the puffin tour boats (the puffins nest on nearby Staffa between April to August). Around 4 pm, the queue for the ferry back to Mull extends past the pier and basically into the village. That’s usually when I arrive, when all of the day trippers leave. The late afternoon ferry to Iona on the other hand, in time for hotel check in, barely has a handful of people, if that.

The experience you’d have with a day trip to Iona would be significantly different than if you stayed a few days. With that said, because Iona is small and you’ll go everywhere on foot, you can still have a lovely few hours on Iona. It’s just not the same.

Staying for a few days of slow travel isn’t always feasible, consider a small group tour to Iona, including the Isle of Mull:

• 3-day Mull and Iona trip from Glasgow
• 4-day Mull, Iona and West Highlands from Edinburgh

Or, perhaps looking for a change in your job is a way to fully embrace slow travel. With Jooble, explore remote opportunities for the flexibility to slow your travel down. https://uk.jooble.org/jobs-work-from-home

3. 5 Things to do on Iona

Given that Iona is a small island, there are only a handful of things to do. Most center around the Abbey and St. Columba’s connection with the island. Additionally, since only resident vehicles are allowed on the island, get your walking shoes out – you’ll explore everywhere by foot!

– Stroll through the Iona Nunnery

Between the village and on the way to the Abbey, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, which was founded sometime in the early 1200s. The nunnery remained as one of two Augustinian monasteries for women in Scotland and is still the most complete medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. Following the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and left to ruin.

The Iona Nunnery is a good place for a quiet stroll, possibly accompanied with a freshly fried rhubarb donut from Ailidh Loves Pizza, which is around the corner.

– Take a tour and attend Church Service at the Iona Abbey

A visit to Iona is nothing without taking a tour of the Iona Abbey, a Benedictine abbey, and hearing the story of how the abbey came to be. Entry tickets (10 GBP for adults) to the abbey include an audio guide (or an actual guide at certain times), entry to the museum, and St. Oran’s chapel and the nearby graveyard – the burial place of old Scottish kings. Its a wonderful tour and really interesting to hear about the founding of the abbey to the viking raids, to the changes that have been made to the structure since its inception.

You can attend Sunday service at Iona Abbey (or evening service) even as non-members of the church. There have been a few church services that I’ve attended around the world that have moved me, and the Sunday Service at Iona Abbey was one of them. If you’re having a moment in life, and just need a bit of extra positivity, the church service at Iona Abbey may be exactly what you need. With a friendly hello and “peace be upon you” from your neighbor, it serves only to warm your heart and spirit.

Attending the Cook Islands Christian Church at the other end of the world and Saint Augustine Catholic Church in New Orleans have been special and moving church services that I’ve attended in my life.

Book of Kells connection to Iona

It’s been said that the Book of Kells was written in Iona and transported back to Ireland for safekeeping following a Viking raid on Iona in 806. The Book of Kells (sometimes known as the Book of Columba), a 9th century illustrated manuscript of the Book of Gospels, in Latin, was kept at the Kells Monastery (Ireland) from then until the 1650s when it was sent to Dublin. Since 1661, it’s been housed at Dublin’s Trinity College. Whether the Book of Kells was written and illustrated in Iona isn’t completely known, but some connection between Iona and the Book of Kells is known.

For both religious and non-religious, the visiting the Book of Kells exhibit at Trinity College in Dublin is an absolute must when in Ireland – the details are exquisite.

Photos courtesy of Trinity College Dublin

– Search for Eternal Youth at the highest point on Iona

Grab your hiking boots, and head up to the highest point on Iona, Dùn Ì (prounounced dun-ee). It’s only a 101 meter (331 feet) scramble up, but from there, you can see the entire island, and maybe even the lighthouse on Tiree on a clear day. You know you’ve made it to the top when you reach the cairn. Be sure to find the Well of Eternal Youth and bathe your face in it. Standing at the cairn and facing north, head down the slope, towards a cleft in the rocks. Eternal youth awaits you!

Note: the entrance to Dun-I is near the pods. If you’re walking (on the one road), you’ll see a sign that says “NOT” the entrance to Dun-I. (love that). The entrance is basically the next gate you encounter. It’s a counterintuitive note, but will make total sense when you are there.

– Find Columba’s tears in Columba’s Bay

Columba’s tears, also known as mermaid tears, are found on the rocky shores from the hike to the south of the island (trail map). Iona green serpentine marble, a light green, translucent little pebble, can be found on the south side of Iona at St. Columba’s Bay or the old Marble Quarry. In the photo below, I think it’s the lightest color pebble. That day, I was just picking up all small green pebbles in order to figure out which one was a tear later.

L: St. Columba’s Bay on Iona
R: A handful of pebbles, the lightest one should be Columba’s tear

Superstitious travelers carry Columba’s tears with them in their pocket, as its said to prevent against drowning.

If you’re lucky enough to find two Columba’s tears, one represents something negative to leave behind (and is thrown into the sea), and the other is for you to take home and remember your new beginning or intended commitment.

– Bask in the sunshine, hide in the rain

• Explore the beaches – Bay at the Back of the Ocean on the west coast and White Beach on the northern tip of Iona are both spectacular and secluded with lush, fine sandy beaches. St. Columba’s Bay in the south is a pebble beach with Columba’s tears hidden among the stones. But give the whole island a wander, there are several beaches that you just stumble upon!
• Iona Golf Course – pick up your scorecard for 1 GBP at the local post office, and then walk 30 minutes to an incredibly remote golf course, maintained by grazing cattle and sheep, with the wild sea as a backdrop. 18 holes with an audience of sheep watching!
• OR, if it’s puffin season (April to August) go on a puffin tour to nearby Staffa! Staffa Tours picks you up directly from the Iona pier and heads over to Fingal’s Cave and the puffin colonies on uninhabited Staffa.

4. Food on Iona

Being a small island, there’s only a handful of places to eat on Iona. It might surprise you that the food is actually phenomenal! I’ll break it down for you:

– Argyll Hotel

Located just off the pier, the Argyll Hotel is a favorite of mine, not only to stay on Iona, but to eat as well! Gorgeously fresh, locally sourced and grown food, with a cozy, warm vibe. The shortcut from the hotel toward the abbey includes a wander by the Argyll Hotel’s garden, which supplies the hotel with locally grown produce. Meals at the Argyll Hotel can be taken in the conservatory, with a beautiful view overlooking Mull and the Sound of Iona.

What is this delicious delight to my left? Pan seared Iona hogget loin, roast garden potatoes, samphire, hogget & wine ragout, rhubarb jus & crispy capers. I mean… absolutely exquisite!

So many incredible chefs began at the Argyll Hotel in Iona – Pam Brunton from Inver, for one, and Carla Lamont from Ninth Wave, another. Both incredible chefs who honor sustainability and locally grown produce in their creativity. And both incredible destination restaurants worth visiting!

– St. Columba’s Hotel

St. Columba’s Hotel is the other hotel and restaurant on Iona that packs an incredible punch! I haven’t stayed here, but I have had a few delicious meals here. When the sun is shining, the picnic tables in the garden are perfect for a relaxing beer! You won’t be able to miss the St. Columba Hotel Gardens on your way to the abbey, which provides locally grown produce to the hotel and restaurant.

Next door is St. Columba’s Larder, a cute little shop with snacks, gifts, teas, coffees and cakes.

– The Rookery Cafe

Next to the Iona Heritage Center (worth a wee wander into!), the Rookery Cafe is a wonderful addition the Iona food scene. It’s a perfect lunch spot for sandwiches and toasties, and delectable dessert treats to enjoy outside in the garden, on its many picnic tables.

The Rookery Cafe is opened during the day, Monday – Saturday. Being an island business, please check their social media for up to date hours and specials.

– Other food options

• Ailidh Loves Pizza: This is a brand new pizza and donut shop that I follow on social media and drool after. Last time I visited, they were only doing donuts (and of course, I got one) but their pizzas and flatbreads (with seafood!) look incredible for next time!
• The Martyr’s Bay – Local cafeteria and diner – your place to get a chippy on Iona.
• Iona Seafood – locally caught and landed crabs, lobsters, and other seafood. if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen, be sure to order some local seafood to enjoy! pick up, where else? at the pier!
• Iona Craft Shop – this is a super cute craft and gift shop, which also sells coffees and cappuccinos! Pop by and browse the local wares while waiting for your latte.

Other food options across the way in Fionnpfort:

Although the next two are not located on Iona, but rather in Fionnpfort (where you got the ferry to Iona), they get a special mention regardless.

• The Creel Seafood Shack – Regularly voted Best Seafood in Scotland, this little shack is perfect for your black pudding and scallop roll before you board the ferry. Or, your seafood platter on a sunny day. (required to be ordered 24 hours in advance). Don’t forget to add a lush order of chips (fries)!
  • If seafood is your jam, the Creel Seafood Shack makes an appearance on my Best Seafood in Scotland list.

• The Ninth Wave – an exquisite lunch treat from Head Chef Carla Lamont and her husband Johnny, that they deem as “hedonism on a plate.” The Ninth Wave uses seafood caught by Johnny and herbs and produce they grow in their garden. It’s a small dining area, but everyone is served each of the courses at the same time. Carla and Johnny explain the course to the diners in kind of an open forum. It’s casual and relaxed for such an incredible dining experience – one that I hope to revisit again in my coming travels!

5. Parting Thoughts on a slow travel trip to Iona

Iona is truly a special place, and once you’ve been entangled in its magic, you’ll keep coming back. Despite being an extremely small island, the island and its charms tend to have a mesmerizing effect. I’m not sure if you’d get that same feeling during a day trip with other tourists and travelers, but if that’s your entry point into Iona, then far be it for me to deny you that initial feeling!

Just a side note: many people visit Iona as it appears to sit on a ley line. Ley lines are supposed lines that connect multiple prehistoric or ancient sites, often with a certain kind of energy or paranormal phenomena. The ley lines connect Iona with other prehistoric sites in Scotland, including the Callanish Standing Stones on Lewis and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney. Whether you believe or not, these sites are special. But is it the secret source of Iona’s magic? Who knows.

But what I can say is, a slow travel trip to Iona is rejuvenating to one’s soul. Slow down, breathe in the fresh air, laugh and dance in the rain, and eat great food. What else is there in life?

Before I close, I will leave you with an expert tip for your trip to Iona. I make a joke that no matter what, even if it’s sunny and the weather isn’t forecasted to rain, I always get caught in a mass downpour. Don’t worry, the island is small, so you’re never technically that far away from shelter. For me, the sudden downpour always invokes a laughing fit, which is the right kinda attitude for a place like Iona.

If you’re bouncing around Scotland in addition to Iona, I’d definitely recommend some Hunter wellies (or wellington boots for those who want to be a bit more formal), which are waterproof and perfect for sloshing around in the rain. They even have insulated wellies if you normally get cold feet! Trust me, you’ll want to prepare for rainy days in Scotland!

Until next time, dear readers, slow down and look for the magic in life!

6. How to get to Iona

The Isle of Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides, located offshore from the Isle of Mull, on the west coast of Scotland. To get to Iona from mainland Scotland, you’ll take two ferries with a drive or bus ride in between.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day. Book in advance.
  • Passenger cost: 3.90 GBP (single) / 7.80 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: 14.70 GBP (single) / 29.40 GBP (return)
• Step 3: Drive 1 hour across the Ross of Mull to Fionnpfort or take Bus 96/496 from Craignure to Fionnpfort.
  • (sorry! I tried to get a cost for the bus, but all I could find was that there is an 18 GBP Mull day pass. surely you can buy single tickets from Craignure to Fionnpfort, I just don’t know how much that costs!)
• Step 4: Fionnpfort to Iona ferry, also on CalMac Ferries (10 minute sailing). With multiple sailings per day during high season. This sailing is a turn up and go, so you pay on board.
  • Passenger cost: 1.85 GBP (single) / 3.70 GBP (return)
  • Vehicle cost: -N/A- remember, no cars on the island for tourists!

Fionnpfort is prounounced FINNA-firt

If you’re driving, you will have to leave your car in Fionnpfort, as only resident vehicles are allowed on Iona. You can either pay for parking directly at the pier or, a short walk away (300 meters), there is a free car park. As you drive through Fionnpfort, you’ll see a sign to turn left for a free car park. I’d suggest that instead of the paid parking. It’s about a 7 minute walk to the pier. Since the ferries more or less go back and forth throughout the day, take the extra 7 minutes for free parking.

If you’d like to stay on Iona, in addition to the two hotels (Argyll Hotel and St. Columba’s Hotel) there are also campsites, pods, self catering houses and B&Bs available.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

• The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
• In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

• Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
• Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
• Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

1. The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
2. Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
3. Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
4. Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
5. Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
6. Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

• Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
• Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
• The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
• There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

• waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
• waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
• waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • Browse ScotRail options to Oban
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
• Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
  • Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
• Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Let me preface this list by saying that there is a lot that can go wrong with non-fresh seafood. Of course there is. But fresh seafood, honestly, it’s hard to mess it up! When it’s sea to plate in a matter of hours or days, chances are, it’s going to be incredible. That’s why this list isn’t a ranking, more of a … standing seal of approval by yours truly.

This Scottish seafood journey of mine started out of a personal curiosity who had the best seafood platter in Scotland. That evolved into a journey traveling to the source of great food, finding some of the best seafood shacks in Scotland, and fully trying to experience Scottish seafood it in all its freshest glory.

All of the places on this list are all top quality seafood establishments, a few are sit down restaurants. And, as expected, none of them are located inland or in a big city.

Without further ado, the best seafood in Scotland.

* Skipness Seafood Cabin – Skipness

Making its rounds in the UK press recently, the Skipness Seafood Cabin has been a hidden gem on the west coast of Scotland for those in the know. With the castle ruins of Skipness Castle next to you and the Isle of Arran in front of you, the views at Skipness Seafood Cabin can’t be beat.

• Located 20 minutes from Kennacraig (Islay ferry terminal) and at the top of the Kintyre peninsula.
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 18£
• poached salmon, cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, gravalax, brown crab, white crab, mussels, langoustine, and oyster;
• includes a little salad.

* Birsay Bay Tea Room – Orkney Islands

On the northerly tip of mainland Orkney is the Birsay Bay Team Room. Enjoy sweeping views of the Brough of Birsay Lighthouse with your Taste of Orkney platter, paying tribute to Orkney’s amazing local food producers! Following your meal, take a stroll down the street to the Earl’s Palace, the ruins of the first Earl of Orkney’s castle.

• Located 30 minutes drive from Kirkwall on Mainland Orkney;
• Taste of Orkney platters: prices starting 15£ per person;
• Items vary, but some of the things included in mine were: smoked salmon pate wrapped in smoked salmon, stone crab claws and meat, peppered smoked mackerel, locally cooked ham, sliced beef.
• The cheeses are locally made from Orkney Cheddar, Burnside Cheese (a small batch cheese producer using local cows milk) and Wilsons of Westray (from few islands north of mainland Orkney).
• The Taste of Orkney platter offered in the summer season only;
• Call them at +44 (0) 1856 721 399 to reserve your Taste of Orkney platter – 3 days notice please.

* Tobermory Fish Co – Isle of Mull

A seafood platter from Tobermory Fish Co is the best treat you could give yourself when visiting the Isle of Mull!

• Located just outside Tobermory;
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 20£
• cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, mackeral pate, oysters, langoustine, and smoked mussels;
• includes some oatcakes and bread;
• call them at +44 (0) 1688 302120 to order a seafood platter to pick up.

The shop also has local produce and fresh (raw) seafood for purchase. Keep your eye out for some Island Bakery Lemon Melts (my favorite) and some Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney!

Take a tour of Tobermory Distillery on Mull, and grab a whisky to pair with your seafood platter!

* Oban Seafood Hut (Green Shack) – Oban

Just because I’ve never gotten a seafood platter from the Oban Seafood Hut, it doesn’t mean it’s less worthy of inclusion on this list… it just means that I’m always craving mussels when I’m in Oban! Luckily, I have seafood-loving-friends who had the grand platter shown above.

• Located at the Oban ferry terminal. You can’t miss the green shack on the pier.
• There are two types of platters, shared between two people – the grand platter (38.50£) and the “regular” platter (23.50£);
• The grand platter typically has lobster, crab, scallops, langoustine;
• served with bread.

While you’re there, visit the Food from Argyll shop a few doors down, where you can find the coffees, cakes and snacks from Argyll’s local food producers!

* Islay Sea Adventures – Isle of Islay

I know, you’re thinking what is a boat adventure company doing on this list? Well, outside of the wilderness and fishing tours Islay Sea Adventures offers, they also offer a Seafood Special Tour. Starting in Port Ellen, you’ll follow the southern coast passing by whisky distilleries. Grab the binoculars for seal and deer sightings along the way.

Halfway through, you’ll pull into a bay when Harold fires up the grill. Fresh hand-dived scallops grilled with butter and herbs to go along with lobster and crab platter in the boat. There are plenty of scallops, lobster and crab for everyone! I’ve been with Harold and Gus from Islay Sea Adventures many times and have always walked away with very full and very happy friends!

• recently shortlisted for the Highlands and Islands Tourism Award for best outdoor / adventure activity;
• the Seafood Special tour leaves from Port Ellen, and is offered once a week;
• 2023 price per person: 100£;
• lobster, brown crab, and freshly grilled scallops;
• includes salad and bread.

* Colonsay Pantry – Colonsay

Seafood nights at the Colonsay Pantry are legendary and gorgeously fresh, and absolutely perfect if you are taking the evening’s ferry back to Islay! Located in Scalasaig, the Colonsay Pantry cannot be missed during your Colonsay visit.

• Available Wednesday’s and Saturday’s (April to October)
• shrimp (prawns), oysters, hot smoked salmon, smoked mussels, scallops, crab, steamed mussels, battered cod bites,
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2022 price for 1 person: 35£
• reservations (mentioning seafood night) must be made in advance.

* Glenegedale House – Isle of Islay

No foodie visit to Islay is complete without a lush seafood platter from award-winning Glenegedale House, a luxury bed and breakfast. Emma and Graeme, owners of Glenegedale House, have built incredible relationships with the local fishing community, and are proud to share the stories of the people who caught and landed their fresh catch hours earlier!

• Seafood platter 2022 price for 2 people: 110£;
• Dinners can be enjoyed by guests and a limited number of non-guests;
• lobster, crab, langoustine, scallops, hot smoked salmon, cold smoked salmon;
• served with oat cakes, light salad, and homemade bread;
• Reservations must be made in advance – either through email or by phoning them at +44 (0) 1496 300400.

* Oyster Shed – Isle of Skye

I finally made it to the Oyster Shed! Located in the village of Carbost, it is a must-eat for any foodie visiting Skye and is often considered the best seafood on the Isle of Skye!

• There is a farm shop and outdoor picnic area. Order inside the farm shop and pick up next door at the picnic area! You can slurp up a few oysters in the farm shop while you wait.
• Seafood platter price: 40£ (changes depending on catch)
• I didn’t get a seafood platter, but I did get that gorgeous 1/2 kilo of crab claws with fries! for only 12.50£!
• Enjoy views of Loch Harport while you eat.
• Open Monday – Saturday, all year round.

Combine your lunch with a whisky tasting from nearby Talisker Distillery, which is within walking distance.

* The Creel Seafood Bar – Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Voted Scotland’s best seafood establishment in 2021, there’s no wonder why. The Creel Seafood Bar‘s seafood is landed at the pier within walking distance! Enjoy your seafood with views of the Isle of Iona on their outdoor deck seating area.

The seafood platter is available by contacting them 24 hours in advance, and it will be waiting for you when you arrive! It was so incredibly light and fresh! Perfect for enjoying in the sunshine. Outside of the seafood platter, get fish and chips or scampi and chips, or a black pudding and scallop roll, the possibilities are endless! Definitely one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland!

• shrimp (prawns), smoked salmon, lobster, white crab
• served with a salad,
• Seafood platter 2023 price for 1 person: 33£
• Contact them 24 hours in advance at +44 (0) 7864 605682 or on IG to order your seafood platter

* The Bay Fish and Chips – Stonehaven

The Bay Fish and Chips gets a special mention on this seafood list, because of it’s commitment to sustainable fishing practices (and also because of the deliciousness of the fish and chips!). The Bay is the first fish and chip shop in the UK to be certified by the Marine Conservation Society, which means that their North Sea catches are fully sustainable, and deliciously fresh. When I was in their shop recently, they also had their Carbon Reduction Plan available on the front counter for anyone’s perusal. So, this commitment to sustainability can be found everywhere!

• Located right on Stonehaven Bay just south of Aberdeen;
• Available to order online for pick up;
• the MSC Standard Haddock (with chips) will set you back 10.20£
• there’s some seating directly outside the shop, but walk along the promenade or down to the beach for additional seating;
• Expert tip💡: finish your chippy and head next door to Aunt Betty’s for some delicious ice cream, with free candy toppings and sauces.
• Work off your chippy and ice cream and take the Stonehaven Coastal Path down to Dunnottar Castle for incredible coastal scenes and dramatic cliffside castle.

* Tarbert Seafood Festival – Tarbert

Held the first weekend in July in Tarbert (as there are several Tarberts in Scotland, this is the one located at the top of the Kintyre peninsula, in Argyll & Bute), the Tarbert Seafood Festival was fun and delicious enough for me to include on this list. With a crowned Seafood Queen, and kids dressed up in all things aquatic (anything from mermaids to octopus to Baywatch lifeguards), it’s such a quirky festival atmosphere – plus, with great food! You’ll smell garlic butter scallops sizzling as you walk along the stands, evaluating your choices. Don’t wait too long to get into the seafood paella queue! For me, it was the crayfish tikka tacos from the Murphy’s Pakora Bar food truck. It was GORGEOUSLY spiced, and ABSOLUTELY stunning. This is the Scottish seafood I need!

• Note: this event is not heavily publicized, but expect updates on the Facebook page! Remember, usually the first weekend in July.

* The Oyster Shed – Isle of Islay

Islay Oysters have been around for quite some time, regularly making an appearance at the annual Feis Festival to enjoy with a sprinkling of whisky. In 2022, the folk behind the delicious Islay Oysters opened up a restaurant, The Oyster Shed, which sits on the eastern banks of Loch Gruinart. Enjoy delicious menu items like my crab sandwich on their homemade focaccia bread, stuffed to the brim with lump crab meat. Or their locally raised meat from nearby Craigens farm which are the stars of their Curried Lamb sandwich and Pulled Beef sandwiches.

Feast on locally grown oysters directly from Loch Gruinart – choose from au natural (with a lemon), mignonette sauce (vinegar, shallots, and peppers), or deep fried served with garlic mayo.

• Check their Facebook for latest opening times and menu;
• or phone them at +44 (0) 1496 850256 to book a table or order oysters directly for pick up!

* The Lobster Pot – Blackness, Linlithgow

I have to thank my friend Dr. H for bringing me to this great establishment. The Lobster Pot is a quirky and fun pub (and local shop) located in the Firth of Forth harbour village of Blackness. Inside, there’s a daily lobster board, with your fresh lobster options. There’s also a normal pub menu in case you’re not in the mood for lobster that day, but let’s be real – lobster is the real star of the show!

From the lobster board that day, there was the 1/2 lobster & burger, (full) lobster & chips, lobster mayonnaise (foodies, I’m not really sure what this one is!), lobster thermidor (shell-on style), and finally, a steak and 1/2 lobster.

• Check their website for their menu and to book a table. We went during the off-season, but got the last available table at lunch! So, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment!
• Blackness Castle, famous in recent years as an Outlander filming location, is just a 5 minute walk from the Lobster Pot. I highly suggest a visit to the castle to walk off your lobster, and to take in the view of all the Forth bridges!
• Speaking of Outlander, if you are looking to travel through the stones during your Scotland trip, I’ve written a post on the main Outlander filming locations, and how to visit them! The post includes directions on public transpo and tour suggestions to those harder-to-reach locations.

* The Nook – Isle of Gigha

If you’re ever heading to Gigha and are looking for an incredible seafood surprise, then look no further than The Nook, a seafood takeaway located next to “the shop”. Trust me, if you’ve been to Gigha, you’ll know where I mean. The menu is what I would consider fun Scottish seafood street food, with braised octopus tacos, a delicious prawn bap, smoked Gigha halibut bagels, just to give you a little hint! Joe, the owner, is fantastic and made a wonderful suggestion to add an order of chips (which were light and crispy and perfectly salted). If I were ranking seafood shacks, would this be considered one of the best seafood shacks in Scotland? 100% YES. The Nook is the hottest thing right now in Scottish seafood street food in my opinion!! Get excited! (and travel to Gigha, exclusively to eat at The Nook!)

Other great seafood establishments in Scotland

There are other great seafood establishments in Scotland I want to share that don’t quite fit my seafood list above – but I still love them the same!

* No. 88 – Lerwick, Shetland

Take a break from solving crimes in Shetland and eat at least one meal at No. 88 in Lerwick. If you want to know the exact distance your food traveled before it appeared on your plate, the folks at No. 88 are happy to chat about their incredible food suppliers. Also, fun fact: No. 88 is Chef Nick Nairn’s favorite lobster in the world.

* Port Charlotte Hotel – Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay

The Port Charlotte Hotel on the Rhinns of Islay has your freshest catch and local beef, venison and lamb on the menu. It also has my favorite fish and chips on Islay! Choose from the “posh” with three different kinds of fish, and “traditional” with just haddock. Despite what you may think, traditional for me!

* Fisherman’s Pier Fish & Chip Van – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

A perfect way to refuel after a day spent watching otters on Mull or puffins on nearby Staffa. I love a fish and chips (salt, no vinegar, I’m a weirdo, I know), so when I’m on Mull, you’ll find me at the chip van, conveniently located on the pier at Tobermory.

* Loch Fyne Oysters and Deli – Loch Fyne

The perfect refuel stop on A83, located just outside Inveraray, halfway between Glasgow and Kennacraig (the Islay ferry port). With wonderfully fresh seafood, Loch Fyne Oysters is a beautifully decorated loch-side restaurant. The look and feel is coastal grandma, the food is kiss the chef gorgeous.

* Tailend – St. Andrews

Go for 18-holes at the Old Course in St. Andrews and head straight to Tailend, a restaurant & takeaway chippy owned by G&A Spink Fishmerchants in Arbroath. They supply all the fish to the restaurant fresh on a daily basis!

The ones that I haven’t tried yet, simply because I’ve been unable to travel there!

• The Seafood Shack – Ullapool – The NC500’s best seafood shack! Fresh catch is dropped off every morning, and their day’s menu depends on the day’s catch.
• The Pierhouse Hotel – Appin – Located in Port Appin, on the banks of Loch Linnhe in Argyll, this west coast hotel and restaurant will be perfect for a future dine and stay.
• Botanica at the Barn – Tighnabruaich – recently included in National Geographic UK’s Culinary Guide to Argyll. The menu uses local ingredients sourced from Argyll or foraged by the chef / owner from the surrounding forest and sea.
• Anstruther Fish Bar – Anstruther, Fife – regularly wins the UK’s best fish and chip awards and is the world’s first fish and chip shop to earn a Chain of Custody seafood sustainability certification from the Marine Stewardship Council!

Are you a Scottish foodie? Are there incredible seafood establishments in Scotland that I’ve missed in my list? Leave me a comment below and let me know!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/