This one-of-a-kind exclusive whisky experience combines the best of both worlds – the delightful taste of Scotch whisky and a comfortable, upscale hotel with all the amenities you could wish for. While I don’t have a whisky bucket list (or any bucket list) per se, a stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery is a fun experience and an absolute must for any whisky fan! Don’t get me wrong – I have a home in a whisky village on a whisky island and I’ve stayed at hotels with famous whisky bars before. But staying on site at a distillery (with a delicious restaurant) was a truly unique and wonderful experience!

1. Whisky Distilleries with Accommodations in Scotland

Before I go about telling you all about my stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel, I’ve done a bit of research on the matter and there are a handful of Scottish distilleries with accommodations that can be rented out. In Scotland, you’ll find:

• Bowmore Distillery has Bowmore Cottages and the Harbour Inn, in the same village, adjacent to the distillery. Some units like the Maltman’s Cottage, were formerly staff cottages;
• Glenmorangie Distillery has Glenmorangie House – a luxury boutique hotel with rooms and cottages, located about 10 miles away from the distillery.
• Ardbeg Distillery has the Seaview Cottage, which is located on distillery grounds in a separate area from production. Currently the website says its not available for booking, so not sure if Ardbeg has any sneaky plans!
• Dornoch Distillery was started on the grounds of the Dornoch Castle Hotel, so it kind of deserves a place on this list… (it’s funny, they market this as one of the only hotels in the UK with a distillery, as opposed to the way I am marketing this post as one of the only distilleries with a hotel! I think it’s an interesting distinction)
• Springbank Distillery in Campbeltown has The Still Guesthouse as part of their 3-day Eat, Sleep, Dram, Repeat retreats. The guesthouse is not onsite, but 3 minutes walk away from Springbank Distillery. I’ve not been, but a whisky writer I follow has, so check out his review!

There are a few lists online that would also include whisky hotels in Scotland like:

• the Jura Distillery / the Jura Hotel, which is next door. But, the hotel isn’t owned by the same company as the distillery, so just being next door doesn’t count!
• the Craigellachie Hotel in Aberlour (Speyside) or the Fife Arms in Braemar – both are considered as a whisky tasting hotel with vast and memorable whisky bars. So does that make them a whisky hotel in Scotland? Maybe… but also, maybe not.

All of the above would be great for any whisky tasting weekend breaks. However, all of my research has led me to this conclusion:

Of all the Scottish distilleries with accommodations, the Isle of Raasay Distillery is the only whisky distillery with a hotel on site in Scotland. You can walk from your room over to the production side for your tour without needing to brave temperamental Scottish weather. The restaurant and bar (with Raasay whisky of course!) are just located downstairs from your room.

This was confirmed by the Isle of Raasay Distillery, as well!

2. Introducing the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

The Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is housed in Borodale House, a former Victorian villa on Raasay. The hotel includes six en-suite rooms, a restaurant, and a bar and lounge to enjoy. Of course, Borodale House is also home to the Isle of Raasay Distillery (opened in 2017) and houses its 1 spirit still and 1 wash still. Currently, this yields 188,000 liters per annum of peated and unpeated spirit annually, so not a very big operation! In their signature single malt release, Isle of Raasay whisky is lightly peated with rich dark fruit flavors and bottled on site at 46.4% ABV.

The Borodale House Restaurant, available to overnight guests and visitors alike, sources its produce as locally as it can, with their culinary highlights including Raasay venison and fresh seafood from its shores. The dining room has uninterrupted views of the Cuillin Mountains over on Skye, so look forward to stunning views over breakfast and dinner!

Separating the hotel section and production is the bar and tasting area, with a lush living wall leading you into production, marking the boundaries. The bar serves Isle of Raasay whiskies and gin, as well as beer from Cuillin Brewery. When I visited, the only food option at the bar was the charcuterie platter, but it seems they’ve expanded to a full (and quite delicious looking) bar menu. From a quick inspection of the menu online, I spotted oysters, fried squid, langoustines and venison burgers. All local to Raasay or Skye, no doubt.

For those staying at the hotel, there is also a resident’s lounge for you to enjoy a quiet dram. It’s perfect for an after dinner drink before retiring to your room upstairs.

Let’s not forget about the whisky at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Whisky is the main reason you’re here, is it not? Guests to the hotel get a complimentary distillery tour for their stay. You’ll get one dram (single cask release) or a gin for the normal tour. For those on the Winter Whisky Retreat, you get upgraded to Whisky, Gin, and Chocolate Tour and Tasting. You’ll get the Raasay Single Malt, a single cask release, and the gin to pair with chocolates from the Glenshiel Chocolate Company.

For those super whisky nerds, there is a variety of other tours and tastings you can take. The first two of these include the “normal production tour” plus an extra!

• Distillery and Bottling Warehouse Tour – You’ll truly get to witness the whole production cycle through to bottling, and sample 2 Raasay drams and the gin.

• Dunnage Cask Warehouse Tour – Pop behind the scenes into the dunnage warehouse, with an exclusive tasting of their Na Sia range, straight from the cask! After 6 cask strength whiskies, you’ll be glad you’re staying at the hotel!

• Cask Strength Tasting – a tasting featuring the Na Sia range, 6 whiskies both peated and unpeated, at cask strength no less!

Explore Isle of Raasay whiskies

3. My Stay at a Whisky Distillery – the Room

I visited the Isle of Raasay Distillery and stayed as part of their Winter Whisky Retreat promotion. Now for 280 GBP per room, the package included the following for two persons:

• accommodation in one of their luxury rooms
• welcome drink in the lounge (Isle of Raasay G&T or dram)
• whisky production tour with whisky and gin tasting, paired with chocolate
• pre-dinner cocktail and canape
• 3-course tasting menu, with mountain views of Skye
• Scottish breakfast in the morning.

The 2023/2024 Winter Whisky Retreat Promotion is valid from November 1, 2023 to March 31, 2024

Even for one person, it was a great deal. And so when my travel plans were derailed and I suddenly found myself with an extra day in the north, I jumped on it and made a slight detour to Raasay!

For me, it was a Small Double Room, with a partial Cuillin view. The room was draped in tweed, wool, and extremely cozy furnishings. Although it was cold and there was snow on the mountains in the distance, the room was so comfortable and warm!

In terms of amenities, there was a TV on the wall, a tea and coffee tray with Raasay Gin and Raspberry shortbread biscuits from Isle of Skye Baking Co expertly stationed at the window reading nook, and of course, a bottle of Isle of Raasay single malt whisky, just in case! The coffee comes from Caora Dhubh, a local Skye coffee roaster, and is a welcome addition to the cozy room.

The bathroom was petite, but included a lush terry cloth robe, the perfect rain shower and handmade soap from Isle of Skye Soap Co.

Unlike other hotels, do note that the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is not staffed after hours. There is of course emergency phone numbers should you require assistance in the evening hours.

4. Food and Drink at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

In my humble opinion, food can make or break any hotel stay… which is why I’m so pleased that the food at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel is absolutely delicious, and I’m sure there is more excitement to come from the kitchen there!

The Borodale House Restaurant offers lunch and dinner to the public and guests alike, and for those staying at the hotel, it’s also where you’ll have breakfast. For me, it was a full Scottish with locally sourced ingredients, that included haggis, black pudding, bacon, egg, mushrooms, and a tattie scone.

Dinner was a slightly more lavish affair, as you do, with a 3-course tasting menu included in the Winter Retreat package.

For me, it was:

• Torched Burrata with beetroot, walnut and shallots – (a Lannie rule in life, always get the burrata!)
• Parmesan Gnocchi with mushroom, thyme, cherry tomatoes, and hazelnut
• Whipped Chocolate Delice with Raasay single malt (of course!), toasted nuts, and vanilla.

There are also drams for you to order to wrap up the meal, choosing from:

• Isle of Raasay Single Malt
• Distillery Exclusive Sherry Release
• Na Sia Single Cask Series
• Isle of Raasay Inaugural Release

A really wonderful 3-course meal, a Distillery Exclusive dram in the resident’s lounge, and that’s me sorted for the evening!

5. Things to do on Raasay

Despite being a small island, there are a number of things to do during your stay at the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel. Personally, Raasay is one of those islands that I bask in its quiet moments and lush nature. My springtime walks around Raasay were sunny and brisk, filled with fairytale-like melodic birdsong. If I weren’t in my big puffy coat, with my beanie and wool scarf, I’d practically be Aurora singing and dancing with animals in the forest. (Sleeping Beauty reference anyone?)

– Explore Inverarish (Gaelic: Inbhir Àrais)

It didn’t take me long to walk from the distillery to Inverarish, the main settlement on Raasay. The walk was quiet, except for the birds chirping loudly. It was a brisk and bright spring day, with views of the Cuillin Mountains on Skye for most of the walk. I later learned that homes in the village don’t have full addresses, but rather are just referred to by number, i.e. “My grandparents live in 26,” etc. Not having full addresses is something an American can’t comprehend, but it seems to work on the wee isle of Raasay.

Be sure to stop by the Community Store for snacks and souvenirs, as well as the Raasay Gallery for local crafts.

– Be charmed at the Raasay Walled Garden

One of the more spectacular things about Raasay is its small, quiet woodland feel. A morning stroll out over to Raasay House walled garden is one place to enjoy the greenery and birdsong. Take advantage of the picnic tables located in the garden for a quiet moment. In the summer months, there is a fresh produce and flower honesty stall for all your local grows!

– Take a hike

If the weather is nice, hike up to Dun Caan, Raasay’s highest point (443 meters) and Raasay’s only extinct volcano. Upgrade to AllTrails+ before you head out, for up to date weather and ground conditions. This would have been useful during my hike up there last summer, when the weather was better. The wind raged so aggressively that we gave up part way through!

– Find the Mermaids and take a selfie

There are a pair of mermaids at the Battery overlooking the pier where the ferry arrives, which could be overlooked if you’re not paying attention. It’s a nice welcome which wasn’t really intended as such. According to local stories, the mermaids were built in the 1840s, intended to be placed along the entryway to Raasay House. Either they were to heavy to be moved along the road, or too ugly (as one story goes), they were left at the Battery at Clachan.

You’ll have to excuse the awkward angle of the selfie!

– Calum’s Road

Although I haven’t made it to the north of Raasay, I would highly recommend a little road trip up to the northern side of the island for a drive on Calum’s Road. Following the Highland Clearances in the 1800s, many of the residents of Raasay lived in the north of the island, which made access to the ferry port connection to Skye in the south very challenging.

Locals had been petitioning the council to build a road connecting Arnish in the north to the rest of Raasay to no avail. From the days of petitioning to when Calum finally took matters into his own hands, the population of the northern part of Raasay had declined from 100 to 2, leaving only Calum and his wife.

Finally, in the 1960s, one spring morning, Calum MacLeod packed a pick, an axe, a shovel, and his lunch box into his wheelbarrow, and began to slowly carve out his own road. He continued to do so for the next 20 years and eventually (and miraculously), built out Calum’s Road. The original motivation for the road was to make the journey easier for Calum’s daughter, who was away to school on Skye. But really, it served as a stunning example of the ingenuity and determination of locals in small communities, when the world seemed to have moved on or forgotten.

This is probably the top of my next visit to Raasay, to pay tribute to such an incredible spirit and determination!

If you’re looking for more ideas, there’s also:

• a wildlife cruise of the Sound of Raasay, where you may see puffins, dolphins, whales, sea eagles, orcas and more!
• The Raasay House – the other hotel on Raasay! Not only are there rooms to stay in, but also a delightful restaurant for lunch and dinner. They also have a variety of outdoor activities that you can arrange there, including archery, loch kayaking and sailing!
• or, just coorie up in your room or in the residents lounge with a dram and a book and call it a day!

6. Parting Thoughts on my stay at the Isle of Raasay Whisky Hotel

It may sound silly as a unique selling point – going to a whisky distillery for a tour and tasting, and then wandering up to your lovely, comfortable room for a rest and maybe a nap, but it is truly wonderful. Hands up if you’ve ever done a whisky tour or tasting and immediately wanted a nap afterwards! The winter whisky retreat fulfills that requirement!

Not only that, but the bar downstairs has an incredible view of the mountains for your cocktails and sundowner. Enjoy the view with your free pre-dinner drinks, before moseying over to the restaurant for a delicious 3-course tasting menu made with local produce. Chef’s kiss perfect!

For whisky fans, this is a lovely treat with wonderful hospitality and delicious food. Plus, Raasay is more of a niche whisky, not super well known, so it’s great to explore new whiskies and expressions.

Overall, it was a really fun stay that had everything that I look for in a mini-break in Scotland. Especially during the dark winter months, going on this winter whisky retreat was such a treat! Delicious food, incredible whisky, a charming small island to explore, and a warm and cozy atmosphere. In all honesty, what more could you ask for? It’s the perfect thing to break you out of the winter blues!

For more information on booking a winter whisky retreat to stay at the Raasay whisky distillery, visit the Raasay Whisky hotel website.

Until your next whisky adventure, I bid you adieu!

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7. How to get to the Isle of Raasay Distillery Hotel

Arriving to Raasay requires a short 25 minute ferry from Sconser (Isle of Skye) on CalMac Ferries. Don’t worry, you don’t need to book anything in advance, as this service is a Turn up and Go. An adult return ticket is 4.20 GBP, and to add your car, it’s an additional 14 GBP.

The distillery is located 0.4 miles from the ferry port, an easy 8 minute walk if you’re coming over on foot.

For those without a car, Raasay can be reached by train, then bus, then ferry. Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, would be your best starting point. The easiest way would be:

• Arrive to Inverness via Scotrail;
  • Glasgow to Inverness by train takes about 3+ hours, and costs 13.50 GBP one way, when bought in advance;
  • Edinburgh to Inverness by train also takes about 3 hours, and costs 19.80 GBP one way, when bought in advance.
  • Or, if you’re coming from London, consider taking the overnight sleeper train to arrive in Inverness around 8:45 am! (This does not have great connections to the bus, which leaves at 8:30 am, but at least I’m giving you options!)
• Connect to Sconser via Citylink bus 917 from Inverness. Check the times, as there are a few nonstop services with 0 changes, so be sure to book those. If you book a return ticket in advance, it costs 39.80 GBP, the same cost as a single ticket! (💡Expert tip)
• After you arrive to Sconser, it’s just a quick 25 minute ferry ride and a 10 minute walk to the distillery!

And there you have it, getting to Raasay on public transportation! Easy peasy!

– Hotel recommendations in Inverness

If you need a luxury hotel in Inverness to hang your hat for the evening before setting off toward Raasay, I can definitely recommend:

• Ness Walk – a 5-star luxury hotel on the banks of the River Ness

• or the Kingsmills Hotel – a 4-star luxury spa hotel, overlooking the Inverness Golf Club.

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The below list ranges from 12 to 24 drams, and all come with 30 ml samples (except for SMWS, which has hefty 50 ml sampling bottles). Prices fluctuate with the number of drams included in the calendar, but the below list ranges from 50 GBP for a 12 day scotch whisky adventure, all the way to a 1000 GBP sampling of 24-Old and Rare Whiskies. Some advent calendars include a spoiler list on the page if you’re super curious, but not all of them!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

Without further ado, here is the 2023 list of Whisky Advent Calendars for the UK!

1. SMWS Single Cask Whisky Advent Calendar – 149 GBP

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society puts out an advent calendar every year, and this year’s 12 drams of Christmas has a few surprises up its sleeves in celebration of SMWS’s 40th anniversary. For £149, you can expect:

• 12 exclusive single cask whiskies, in 50 mL bottles;
• 40 hidden prizes to discover;
• the option to buy a full-size bottle of any of the whiskies.

Gift the advent calendar along with a SMWS membership for only 199 GBP! With special code 12DRAMS10, you can knock that down to 189 GBP!

For more information on joining Scotch Malt Whisky Society, check out my post highlighting the benefits of membership!

2. That Boutique-y Whisky Company Advent Calendar – 149.95 GBP

Embark on a global whisky journey with That Boutique-y Whisky Company. This exclusive selection features 24 meticulously chosen independent bottlings from around the world. Priced affordably at just £149.95, it’s the perfect gift to delight any whisky enthusiast.

3. Peaty Whisky Advent Calendar – 149.95 GBP

For lovers of smoky, peaty flavors, the Peaty Whisky Advent Calendar at £149.95 is a smouldering choice. Discover 24 drams that showcase the rich, earthy side of whisky.

4. World Whisky Advent Calendar – 149 GBP

Travel the globe sip by sip with the World Whisky Advent Calendar, priced at £149. Experience the diversity of whisky from different countries in 24 days, all within one calendar.

5. Japanese Whisky Advent Calendar – 247 GBP

Elevate your whisky journey with the Japanese Whisky Advent Calendar at £247. Immerse yourself in the exquisite flavors of Japan’s finest distilleries with 24 surprise drams.

6. Single Cask Whisky Advent Calendar – 149.95 GBP

Dive into the world of single cask expressions with this affordable option at £149.95. Each dram is a unique gem, showcasing the artistry of individual casks.

7. Whisky Advent Calendar (Irish, Scotch, and English whiskey) – 249.95 GBP

Enjoy the best of three worlds with this premium calendar at £249.95. Explore the distinctive flavors of Irish, Scotch, and English whiskies with 24 drams in 24 days.

8. Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar – 149 GBP

For those who cherish Scotch above all, the Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar at £149 offers delightful discoveries of 24 drams from Scotland’s iconic distilleries and blenders.

9. 25 Whiskies of the World Advent Calendar – 145 GBP

At just £145, the 25 Whiskies of the World Advent Calendar is a fantastic value. Sample a diverse range of global whiskies without breaking the bank.

10. Old & Rare Whisky Advent Calendar – 999.95 GBP

Indulge in luxury with the Old & Rare Whisky Advent Calendar, priced at £999.95. Unearth exceptional and aged treasures in each of the 24 drams. THE luxury holiday gift for whisky lovers!

11. Whisky 12 Dram Advent Calendar – 79.95 GBP

A budget-friendly option at £79.95, the Whisky 12 Dram Advent Calendar delivers a dozen delightful surprises for whisky enthusiasts.

12. That Boutique-y Whisky Company 12 Dram Collection Tasting Set – 79.95 GBP

Indulge in a dozen distinct drams from That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s remarkable independent bottling collection. Discover this curated tasting set, priced affordably at just £79.95, which serves as the perfect introduction to their exceptional range of whiskies.

13. Really Good Whisky Company Scotch Whisky Sherry Cask Collection – 74.99 GBP

This one is for the sherry heads! This 12-day journey unveils a selection of meticulously crafted Scotch whiskies, each aged in sherry casks, resulting in a perfect harmony of flavors. Whether you’re an Oloroso or PX fan, these sherry casks whiskies are for you!

14. 25 day Premium Scotch Whisky Collection – 199.99 GBP

True whisky fans know that age isn’t everything, but maybe you want to impress someone and seem fancy! This extraordinary calendar brings together a curated selection of 25 Scotch whiskies, each with age statements ranging from 15 years to an impressive 34 years old.

If you’re looking for more luxurious 25-day whisky advent calendars, the Really Good Whisky Company also has a 25 day luxury scotch whisky collection for 399.99 GBP, where the scotch ranges from 21-34 years, and a 25 day old and rare scotch collection for 895 GBP which includes a 50-year single malt and a 55 year single grain!

15. 12 days of Scotch Whisky – 49.99 GBP

Elevate your holiday season without breaking the bank with the Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar 12 Day Selection Box. Priced affordably at £49.99, this selection box presents a delightful assortment of 12 Scotch whiskies, each housed in 3cl bottles with a reasonable 40.5% ABV. It’s the perfect way to explore the world of Scotch without a hefty price tag.

***Bonus: Christmas Cocktail Advent Calendar – 135 GBP

The NIO Cocktails Advent Calendar features 24 cocktails, two of each type, to enjoy during the 12 days leading up to Christmas. Share the excitement of opening each little door and discovering the cocktails of the day, from classics you love to new and delightful drinks. The Advent Calendar includes a variety of cocktail experiences, making it a fantastic way to share and celebrate together!

Conclusion

Hope you whisky enthusiasts found this list of dram advent calendars (and the bonus cocktail advent calendar!) to be useful for your 2023 holiday gifting! Remember to drink safely and have a fab boozy holiday season ahead!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you’re a whisky aficionado or a regular reader of my blog, you may have heard of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (affectionately shortened to SMWS). A membership-based whisky club founded in 1983 by Pip Hills, the society is all about celebrating scotch whisky in all its glory. It’s a great place to connect with like-minded whisky enthusiasts, attend tastings and events, and discover new and exciting whiskies. What’s really great about the Society is that it’s not just about the whisky itself; it’s about the culture and the community that has formed around it.

To read more about Pip’s journey with whisky, check out his book, The Founder’s Tale: A Good Idea and a Glass of Malt.

• If you’re thinking about joining SMWS, get the full breakdown of all the membership benefits!
• and, now is the perfect time to join SMWS! Use promo code: MAVERICK40 and get 40% off your annual membership until March 31, 2023. That makes it only 51 GBP!

Without further ado, onto the first release of the 2023 Limited Edition bottlings!

Maverick 40th Anniversary Bottling

This first bottling pays homage to our maverick whisky pioneer, founder Pip Hills, who’s always pushing the boundaries and exploring new frontiers in the world of single malt. This bold and exciting Speyside malt is aged 12 years, and bottled at 50% ABV. The small batch blends doesn’t get assigned a flavour profile, but if we had to, we’d categorize it with Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits!

From a Speyside single malt sleeping in a refill bourbon hogshead, over to a selection of Spanish oak hogsheads (first fill Oloroso and second-fill PX), the result is a dark and delicious blend, and a true celebration of a sherry cask!

SMWS Tasting Notes:

The aromas of freshly waxed, natural marble floors, mosaics and terrazzo tiles were followed by a fruity scent from apricots, peaches and plums, before a cup of Assam tea and fig, apple and raisin bread pudding joined the party…

For the full tasting notes or if you’ve already decided to purchase this bottle (priced nicely at 65 GBP)… ⤵️

My thoughts:

First nose: gorgeously sweet fruits mixed with some tea (I got the waxed marble floors that the experts did on the second nose, but everbody’s different…)

On the palate, I got some apricots with a richness I couldn’t identify, but there was definitely a tartness that cut through the sweetness in a lovely balance. With a drop of water, it mellowed some of the intense richness and I was left with a beautiful dessert.

Honestly, delicious and complex, I personally loved the blending of the Oloroso and PX sherry casks. But was it a wild, unexpected dram that pushed the boundaries like a Maverick? Not quite to that extreme, but I’ll say the SMWS limited releases are off to a roaring start with the Maverick, and I can’t wait to see what the next release holds!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS 40th Anniversary Releases

These special releases are part of Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s 40th anniversary celebration this year. You may have seen their celebrations kicking off on social media, with members from 13 different countries arriving to the Vaults in Leith to experience and create some tasting notes for some of the special releases this year. (HOW FUN!!!). And although it hasn’t been announced yet, the celebrations will reach its peak at The Gathering (held in September), the annual celebration of whisky, community, and good times.

So, until the next release, let’s all raise a glass to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society on its 40th birthday in the wonderful world of whisky. Sláinte!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This could be done as a day trip to Islay from Northern Ireland if you’re determined. You’ll be on Islay between 10:30 to 15:00.

Please note, this has yet to be tried and tested, but I am an experienced traveler, so there is likely some truth to these logistical instructions on how to get to Islay from Belfast… but no guarantees.

Seasonal sailings from Northern Ireland to Islay on The Kintyre Express

The Kintyre Express offers passenger-only (no vehicle) sailings from Fridays to Mondays, between April to October with 1-sailing per day between Ballycastle-Islay (1 hour) and Ballycastle-Campbeltown (1.5 hours).

0730 Campbeltown to Ballycastle
0930 Ballycastle to Islay (Port Ellen)
1500 Port Ellen to Ballycastle
1630 Ballycastle to Campbeltown
daily sailings during festival – check website for details

Fares are the same on both the Islay and Campbeltown routes at 80£ for a single, and 150£ for a return trip.

• For those folks heading to Islay, the sailing departs Ballycastle at 9:30 am, arriving in Port Ellen around 10:30 am.
• If you’re heading to Campbeltown, you depart Ballycastle at 16:30 pm, arriving into Campbeltown around 18:00 pm – just in time for some dinner.

From all of my research, there is no direct Belfast to Islay ferry service. With the return of regular, seasonal sailings on the Kintyre Express, this way is the easiest. Just so you can see, we’ll do a comparison with an alternate route later on in the post!

Cost Breakdown: Belfast to Islay

The total cost for one person going this way from Belfast to Islay is 96.10 GBP one-way / 182.20 GBP return.

• Belfast to Ballymena on train: 8.90 GBP
• Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus: 7.20 GBP
• Ballycastle to Islay / Campbeltown on Kintyre Express passenger ferry: 80 GBP one-way / 150 return.

How to get to Islay from Belfast, Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Belfast to Ballymena by Train

In order to make your 9:30 Islay sailing from Ballycastle, you’ll need to leave Belfast on the morning train to Ballymena. The cost for this leg is 8.90 GBP. I haven’t figured out if I need to buy tickets in advance or pay on the train, but that’s a small detail.

• 7:10 am departs from Great Victoria Street station on NI Railways train to Ballymena, or
• 7:20 am departs from Belfast Lanyon Place Train Station (formerly known as Belfast Central Station or Belfast Central). This is the main train station in Belfast.

For Campbeltown, you’ll need to leave Belfast no later than 13:20 to arrive in Ballycastle by 14:55. Your sailing is at 16:30, so you won’t make it if you leave on the the 14:20 train (arriving to Ballycastle at 16:38). How to get to Campbeltown from Belfast is the same trip, just departing Belfast later. Belfast to Ballymena on train, Ballymena to Ballycastle on bus.

Step 2: Ballymena to Ballycastle by Bus

You’ll arrive in Ballymena at 8:15 am. Don’t dilly dally too long getting off the train – your bus leaves at 8:30 am. 15 minutes is plenty of time to get your bearings. And luckily, from the Google Maps satellite photos, it looks like there are a number of buses waiting just outside the train station. Keep your eyes out for Bus 217 to Ballycastle. The cost for this part of the journey is 7.20 GBP. In your 15 minutes time, maybe find out whether you need to buy a bus ticket

Bus 217 departs Ballymena at 8:30 am, arriving at the Ballycastle Marine Corner at 9:15 am.

When you arrive to Ballycastle, turn north into the village. If you don’t know which direction north is, grab your phone and open the compass app! As you enter the village, to your right you’ll see the pier and the coast. By now, I’m sure you would have seen a boat or a sign that says Kintyre Express. The map on the website says to lookout for a coffee shop, which I think is the Boathouse Coffee Hut.

For those traveling toward the end of August, check online for the days of the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle – Ireland’s oldest fair! Beware that this will cause delays in getting through Ballycastle and may cause disruption on the bus lines to Ballymena.

Step 3: Ferry from Ballycastle to Islay

And you’re off, departing the Antrim coast headed in the direction of whisky and golf meccas! Keep your eyes peeled during your hour plus journey – you’ll pass by Rathlin Island, an L-shaped island known for its thousands of seabirds, including puffins!

The ferry from Ballycastle to Islay is only 1 hour (and 1.5 hours to Campbeltown). But you’ll be traveling comfortably!

Our 13.25 metre passenger ferry features a fully enclosed, centrally heated cabin with 12 airline style seats so you can travel in comfort while enjoying a fast journey to your destination. For golfers, cyclists and those with lots of luggage, we’ve got ample room to carry golf clubs, bikes and luggage free of charge.

– Kintyre Express website

What to expect on board and answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

• Yes, there are toilets on board!
• Remember, this is a passenger ferry, so no vehicles!
• Bicycles, golf bags, and luggage can be brought on board free of charge.
• The cabin is centrally heated, so you shouldn’t be cold
• You’ll need to wear a light life jacket, which the crew will help you into. It’s light and non-restrictive and is for your safety
• There are USB charging points at every seat, but I’d venture a guess that these are the older USB-A ports.
• There is no refreshment service on board, but you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Please dispose of trash appropriately!

Arrival to Port Ellen

Once you get off the jetty in Port Ellen, you’ll see the village ahead of you.

• From the pier into the village, you’ll come to the corner of Charlotte Street and Frederick Crescent in front of the Islay Hotel.
• To your left down Charlotte Street you’ll find the Hart Street Beach, No 1 Charlotte Street (hotel and cafe), the Islay Rum Distillery and further down, the old and historic Port Ellen Distillery.
  • If you need provisions, stop by Campbell’s SPAR for anything you may need!
• To the right, down Frederick Crescent, there’s Sea Salt Bistro, Ellen’s Wok take away, The Ardview pub and the Blue Letterbox post office and gift shop, and then the Co-Op. It’s easy to walk around Port Ellen or down the Three Distilleries Path to visit Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. If you’re leaving the village in this direction, the only other place to eat is at Ardbeg Distillery. Either the Old Kiln Cafe or the Ardstream (their food truck) should be open! (trail map)
• For those golfers heading to the Machrie Hotel & Golf Links, be sure to arrange a taxi in advance to pick you up from the pier.
• For more ideas outside of Port Ellen, be sure to check out my Full Islay Guide! But I’ll give you a hint – my favorite thing outside of Port Ellen has to be the Warehouse 9 tasting at Bunnahabhain!

Alternate ways from Belfast to Islay

Before the Kintyre Express came roaring back from a pandemic break, a friend in Belfast wanted to visit Islay, via the other ferry which departs from Belfast. I looked into it, and honestly wouldn’t suggest it. Not that I need to prove my dominance in logistical planning, but in case you all were wondering, here is how to get from Belfast to Islay, using a much longer, scenic alternative:

1. Belfast to Cairnryan (ferry) on Stena Lines: 7:30 to 9:45 am (2h 15min), foot passenger (no vehicle), 35 GBP;
   • 1 passenger, 1 car : 129 – 174 GBP;
2. Cairnryan to Kennacraig:
   • By Citylink Bus – can be booked in one trip – 41.90 GBP
     • Bus 923: Cairnryan to Glasgow Buchanan: 10:15 am to 12:25 pm (2h 10min)
     • 1.5 hour layover in Glasgow Central. (I’ve also written step-by-step instructions on how to get to Islay from Glasgow, in case you are coming via Glasgow)
     • Bus 926: Glasgow Buchanan to Kennacraig: 14:00 pm to 17:24 pm (3h 25min) – with one 10 minute comfort stop in Inveraray
   • or 4 hours driving (181 miles)
3. Kennacraig to Islay (ferry) on Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) – the main ferry to Islay: 18:00 to 19:55 Port Askaig/20:20 Port Ellen (2h 20min), foot passenger (no vehicle): 7.25 GBP.

In technicality, it’s doable. However, you would have travelled 9.5 extra hours to save 11.95 GBP. At the time, the Kintyre Express was not an option, and my friend was looking for an alternative to flying (Belfast-Glasgow-Islay). But with islands, physically transporting yourself from A to B isn’t always direct.

• The long way: 13 hours, 84.15 GBP (foot passenger fares only)
• The better way: Belfast-Ballycastle-Kintyre Express-Islay: 3.5 hours
• A different way: flights between Belfast City – Glasgow (on Aer Lingus, EasyJet or British Airways), Glasgow – Islay (Loganair).

And there you go, William. I present to you the simpler way of how to get to Islay from Belfast. This is why you should listen to me and not pursue the other shenanigans you were thinking of.

Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve inserted my obligatory jab at my friend, I can extol the benefits of the Kintyre Express. Since you’ve seen the breakdown of the other ferry alternative from Belfast to the Isle of Islay, it’s exciting that the Kintyre Express cuts this journey time down exponentially! I’m looking forward to when sailings begin in April, and I’ll have a wee Northern Irish adventure!

I’m excited to return since my first trip to Northern Ireland in 2018. Last time, the Titanic Museum and a roast chicken was the highlight of my trip. This time, I’m looking to explore Line of Duty locations in Belfast among other things before heading back to Islay. Give me your best Belfast / Northern Ireland recommendations in the comments below!

Until then, be healthy and happy!

Information on Kintyre Express:

Kintyre Express
Website
Phone: (+44) 01586 555895
Email: info@kintyreexpress.com

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

The big Glaswegian party was hosted by the SMWS’s Glasgow Bath Street member room, located at the WEST Brewery. WEST Brewery brews German-style lagers and wheat beers in their Glaswegian home. You’ll often fine WEST Brewery beer on tap at Bath Street. My first whisky tasting at Glasgow’s Bath Street had a special bottling of whisky, which was aged in a WEST dark lager cask. How exactly did that work? (just a quick explanation)

• The whisky started out for 24 years in a former Firkin-cask. 
• Then, the guys at Bath Street put a German, Dunkel (dark lager) beer into the barrel (from WEST Brewery), to let the flavors seep into the barrel.
• Then, the beer was taken out.
• And the whisky went back in. 

Anyway, if beer gardens, beer halls or just traditional German beers are your thing, swing by WEST Brewery in Glasgow for some drinks and fun! In addition to the drinks, you’ll get to see the super cool building, which formerly housed the Templeton carpet factory. Gotta love an old repurposed building!

Anyway, back to the Gathering!

1. Glasgow’s SMWS the Gathering: Dinner and Whisky

Of course there’s going to be whisky at the Gathering – it wouldn’t be a whisky community without the pièce de résistance, would it? (We’ll get to the whisky…) Similarly, it wouldn’t be a Scotch Malt Whisky Society event without the food! You all know me… my obsession with food (and especially whisky and food) runs deep!

About a week before the event, I got an email asking me to choose my courses for The Gathering’s three-course dinner. It was a tough choice, but I went for:

• Starter: Goat cheese and rosemary tart (alternative: smoked salmon with caper salad);
• Main: Chicken supreme with Heidi-Weisse sauce (alternative: fillet of hake with ratatouille);
• Dessert: WEST apple strudel with ice cream (alternative: chocolate brownie with ice cream).

Somewhere along the way, I lost track of which whiskies were supposed to be paired with which course. However, as whisky aficionados always tell you – you drink your whisky however you like, and don’t let anyone tell you how to enjoy it. Whisky fans aren’t really too fussed about these things, so I’m sure there is a level of forgiveness for the forgetfulness after a night of 6 whiskies.

And now, onto the whisky!

2. The Gathering Whiskies

Everyone get on the bus for great whiskies!

The evening’s official whisky menu had 5 whiskies to enjoy. But there was a SMWS poker chip given to each person, for redemption of a dram at the Old and Rare bar. So, 6 really fine whiskies.

The evening and tastings were hosted by John McCheyne, SMWS Master Brand Ambassador, who’s whisky journey brought him to Islay in 1983, back in the day when single malt whiskies were rare. Without the pandemic, you can find John traveling the world ushering people along in their personal whisky journey. More often than not, you can find him on my fair isle of Islay, working alongside the Islay Whisky Academy.

As our host and emcee, John enthusiastically introduced the whiskies for the evening. For the 5 official whiskies, two of them came from New York (a shock, no??) to start, rounded out by two different Speyside whiskies and a Lowlands whisky, which ranged in age from 4 years (also a shock too!) to 30 years!

2.1 Made in New York, New York – Cask no. 142.1

New York, New York, it’s a helluva town! But also, who knew that there were American whiskey distilleries in New York? I definitely didn’t!

At 6 years old, and yet 66.1% ABV, this was one smooth, young whiskey! Ironically, being the strongest whisky we tried all night, you wouldn’t have known. Not much of an ethanol kick at all, but very sweet, with sugary hints raisins and brownies. The tasting notes included some cough medicine or Virgina tobacco (as specific as that is), but I really only got sweet goodness from it. A whisky website I went to researching this bottling, also included coal-gas, cooked vegetables, sweaty and plastic as its tasting notes. Did I get any sweaty plastic notes? No, definitely not. Maybe my palette isn’t as defined as this whisky website… Either way, it was delightful.

Everyone will always ask me my favorite. Normally I don’t really have one in a tasting. But truth be told, it appeared to be a general consensus among guests that this first whiskey was everyone’s absolute favorite. And that’s not any American bias from me!

2.2 Out of the Ordinary – in a very good way! Cask no. RW2.1

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that most of my whisky drinking career thus far has revolved primarily around single-malt scotches. So this 80% rye, 20% malted barley definitely caught my eye. But, if I’m honest, it wasn’t for me. The name suggested something out of this world, and similarly, the tasting notes pushed the subtitle “in a good way!” and “in a very good way” to raise my expectations to a level which was too high for the whiskey itself.

The tasting notes suggested a very herbal nose and flavor, indicating flavors that I’d expect from a heavy botanical gin – lemongrass, lemon myrtle, lemon balm, and orange peel. That, combined with the initial cask being a new charred oak barrel, there was just a bit too much competing flavors.

While this one wasn’t for me, not every whisky will be – and that’s ok! This one was aged 4 years, and made in New York as well. The rye/malted barley whiskey was at 51.7% ABV.

2.3 Timeless and Magnificent – Cask no. 65.7

Finally a scotch! I’m biased, I know. I was excited to try this 30 year old Speyside. For me, it was a little spicy and peppery, with tasting notes hinting at cardamom and ginger, and caramels. Delightful for a cold evening, but for me, unexpectedly spicy for the evening!

At 52.9% ABV (a lower percentage this evening), it felt surprisingly strong. And actually, even stronger than the first whisky (which was alarmingly 66.1%!). It’s interesting how percentage alcohol doesn’t directly influence how much of an alcohol kick you get out of the drink.

2.4 Seductive Whispers of Oak – Cask no. 97.23

Old whisky lovers rejoice! A second 30 year old scotch to enjoy. This time, a Lowlands whisky, at 58.2% ABV, aged for 30 years in a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel. Prior to reading the tasting notes for this one, I thought – hmm, this is kind of delightful, with vanilla and toffee flavors. But you know how your sense of taste and smell are heavily influenced by external factors? Well, this one was described as a “chorus of church pews, leather, tobacco strands and spiced rum.” And later on, “sugary espresso dregs.”

And that was it, it was all leather and old church pews from then on. Tasting notes can be a strange thing – sometimes it can help you identify the aromas and tastes that you already know, but can’t put a name to. Other times, like inception, it will plant a seed in your mind that you can never get over. To conclude, this one never moved past the church pews and leather, even though I knew sweeter flavors were there!

2.5 Encased in Leather – Cask no. 35.271

From one leather to another! Just kidding – even though this 25 year old Speyside had leather in the name, it was a softer leather taste than the previous one. This one had more sweet notes of warn baked orange and cinnamon, with some nutmeg and other autumnal spices. At 56.4% ABV, it wasn’t too heavy, and was the perfect dram to finish off the evening. I drank this with my apple strudel, which paired beautifully, with the cinnamony flavors being brought out by the strudel.

3. The Old and Rare Bar

Get yourself to the old and rare bar for some drams that are exactly that – old and rare. With Alan helming the bar, you were sure to get a phenomenal recommendation on what to drink with your free token! Alan is by far one of the most enthusiastic whisky drinkers I’ve met, and the tastings he hosts at SMWS Bath Street are always a delight!

For me and my plus 1, it was “The Three Chocolatiers” (Cask no. 46.99) for a deliciously sweet and smooth 27 year Speyside.

4. Parting thoughts on SMWS The Gathering

Watch this video on YouTube.

What an incredibly fun evening! Everything about the evening was absolutely phenomenal! From the food, to the guided tastings, and then the whiskies! It’s a rarity when you can have a tasting with two 30 year old whiskies (and a 26 year old as a free dram!). Those two 30 year olds are retailing for 495£. Not suggesting that price equates the quality of the whisky, but wow!! Definitely in the old and rare category!

Before the music started, the room was a bit on the louder side, so I wasn’t really able to chat with the folks at my table. That didn’t diminish the lively feel of the evening. And then, when the band started, it was just such a great vibe! Glaswegian-based The Easy Winners played a great set list, including “You are my Sunshine” from Johnny Cash, and one of my all-time favorite Disney hits – “The Bare Necessities” from the Jungle Book.

All in all, I had a really great evening. I mean, with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, when do I not? But all joking aside, it’s wonderful to have found a hobby that connects you with a group of fun-loving people, always ready to jump down a whisky rabbit hole with you. The global whisky community that SMWS has created is something extremely special, and I’m grateful to be embraced within this community.

While I was gifted this delightful evening, along with a plus one, all opinions in this piece are my own. I have no obligations to enjoy all of the whiskies I tasted. I am also an affiliate of SMWS, which means should you purchase anything from the links in green, I may receive a small commission from that.

If you’re still on the fence about SMWS membership, feel free to check out some of the other posts I’ve written:

• For those curious about SMWS membership, or those wanting to commit to membership immediately;
• What about pairing surf and turf with whisky?
• Or dessert and whisky? Only the best combo!

Until the next delightful whisky event, I bid you all adieu and slainte mhath! Take care and be safe!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

All three of these food and whisky pairings in this series has been graciously gifted by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, of which I am an affiliate of. That means that, if you decide to purchase anything via the links in green, I may earn a small commission for. All opinions on mouthwatering dessert and luscious whiskies are my own. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is a members-only club for whisky and other single cask spirit enthusiasts. Click here to learn more about the membership benefits!

As someone who has an absolute sweet tooth and will always say yes to a dessert, I was so excited to hear that the food and whisky pairings extended beyond main courses and starters. Of the food and whisky pairings I’ve done, the ones with “sweets” often see chocolate paired with whisky. But a full dessert course? Never before. (well, in my limited and humble experience!)

1. Scotch Malt Whisky Society – Greville Street – London!

Unlike the other tasting I’ve done with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, this one coincided with a personal trip south of the border – to London, England! Home of the Queen, the Tower Bridge, and the Greville Street Member Room.

In true speakeasy style, the London Member Room wasn’t where Google Maps said it was – at least the entrance wasn’t. Perpendicular to Greville Street, down the Bleeding Heart Yard (alley), was a big wooden door and keypad, surrounded by pink columns. On the windows surrounding the door, an alphabetical listing of Scotch whisky distilleries, starting with Aberfeldy at the top, down to Tormore at the bottom.

Honestly, I’m sure there is a Scotch Malt Whisky Society sign somewhere, but sometimes I can be aloof, and maybe I overlooked it. The bottles of whisky in the window were a dead giveaway though!

The folks at Greville Street knew I was coming, and when I buzzed they let me up. I was greeted at the top of the stairs by their delightful team, who I would come to know better in the coming days. That’s the thing about whisky, you end up just chatting and befriending people.

I was so happy to be joined on this tasting with my friend B, who I hadn’t seen since pre-pandemic times. I met B on a Twins that Travel tour to Turkey back in 2019, and she’s her spirit is just full of fun and positivity – that great energy that you’d want around anywhere. So, thanks B for joining me and keeping up with the 5 whiskies we went through!!

2. Some charcuterie to start!

While the SMWS Greville Street doesn’t have a dedicated kitchen, they partner with the Bleeding Heart Bistro next door to offer nibbles, a handful of mains and some desserts. I had taken the train down from Glasgow that day, and needed to eat something before jumping into the world of dessert and whisky. So, the charcuterie platter it was! Jasmine, who works at SMWS, came to take our order and asked if we wanted a whisky to start out with prior to the tasting.

Well, I won’t turn down a good whisky.

The best thing to do, is to ask your SMWS Ambassador for a whisky recommendation. And Jasmine did not disappoint!!! Limitness Scrumptiousness, cask no. 39.218, which is categorized in the “sweet, fruity and mellow” profile. A 13 year old Speyside whisky, at 57% ABV. I have to say hands down, this is one of my favorite SMWS bottlings! Definitely, light and sweet and reminded me of lychees and other sweet deliciousness. Maybe I was just in the mood for something light and incredible to start the evening.

3. Dessert and whisky – onto the main event!

Any time the main event is a dessert, you can be sure I’m a happy Lannie. Tonight’s main event would be two desserts and 5 whiskies. (FIVE WHISKIES? well – the Scotch Malt Whisky Society doesn’t mess around on a food and whisky pairing event… I think you must’ve figured that out by now! After five whiskies, you’ll be glad you started the evening with some charcuterie!) Each of these desserts were expertly paired by JP, the Venue Supervisor at Greville Street.

Having had a chat with JP during the tasting about the pairings, his whisky pairing style became clear. He believes that everything should be a balance of opposites. While you could have whiskies that always complement the food, in order to achieve equilibrium, there should be a negative to balance the positive. Not saying that he chose negative whiskies, but rather the less obvious choices – intentionally not pairing citrus with citrus, fruity with fruity. That kind of inverse balance.

So now, onto the dessert and whisky pairing!

3.1 White Chocolate Cheesecake with Poached Apricots

The first dessert we delighted in was a white chocolate cheesecake with poached apricots. Cheesecake is arguably one of the most classic desserts, and when you drizzle it with poached apricots, it takes the classic cheesecake to new heights!

The cheesecake was paired with Clementine Confit and Who’s Been in the Biscuit Tin?

The Clementine Confit, a 10 year blended Scotch, at 50% ABV, was a perfect pairing for the sweet, rich cheesecake. Aromas of coconuts, dark chocolates, oranges and other stone fruits, which is a lovely complementary taste to the apricots and white chocolate cheesecake.

Who’s Been in the Biscuit Tin? (cask no. 44.136) is a 16 year old Speyside, at 55.6% ABV, matured in a refill ex-bourbon barrel. The tasting notes on this one says that the nose has lavendar and apricots, and tomatoes with brazil nuts, with the taste of juicy fruits and biscuits.

If I were digging deep into what JP was saying, I could definitely see the Biscuit Tin being a little on the inverse complementary side. Of course, whisky is a very personal experience, but I felt like following a nibble of the cheesecake, going back to the Biscuit Tin was a “punchier” taste than before.

3.2 Lemon Tart with Verbena Sorbet

We were forewarned by Jasmine that this lemon tart was super lemony. My mouth puckered up and I immediately began salivating at the thought of a really citrusy lemon tart. Although sour desserts aren’t my favorite, I can definitely appreciate a really tart lemon tart (hehe) or a key lime pie or anything like that really. One does not discriminate with sweet or sour desserts. Man. Just thinking of this lemon tart has got me salivating again. The struggle is real.

With the verbena sorbet, this lemon tart was just tart on tart.. but in a good way! This absolutely mouth watering dessert was paired with 3 whiskies, which were meant to be drank from left to right. The last one, is JP’s negative or inverse pairing.

We started with Salad Undressing (cask no. 1.226). In case you’re curious, I’m still giggling at the name. Anyway, Salad Undressing is an 8 year old Speyside, at 58.4% ABV. Very flavorful with hints of cream soda, orange cocktail bitters, and then some earthy, nutty tones. The lemon tart gave this whisky a nice balance, and brought out more of its “nuttier” flavors, if that makes sense.

Next up, Funky Rhubarb, Rum Baba (cask no. 44.137) – 16 year Speyside whisky, at 52.1% ABV. As you can expect with the name, the taste of it was sweet and tart like a funky rhubarb. But on the nose and a bit of the finish, was woodsy, but still a little sweet and tart. The ironic thing is, before the lemon tart, you didn’t get as much of the woodsiness. But after, that was all I could taste. Interestingly enough, the tasting notes from the bottle say:”With some water, we took an axe and wandered into a forest on a hot autumn day to chop some wood.” If that doesn’t accurately describe it, I don’t know what will.

The last whisky of the night was When Life Gives you Lemons (cask no. 68.43), an 11 year Highland whisky, at 55.6% ABV. JP’s infamous negative pairing for balance. A little lemony, a little oaky spiciness. Honestly, this was my least favorite whisky before the lemon tart, and after, to me, it was just too much of a contrast. Personally, I thought that it brought out all the wrong flavors.

My friend, B, didn’t have as adverse a reaction as I did, but like I said – whisky tasting and food pairings are a personal experience, and everyone experiences something different and unique. This one wasn’t for me, and that’s ok. I was happy to abandon the whisky and go back to my mouthwatering lemon tart.

Parting Thoughts

I absolutely love the idea of desserts being paired with whisky. And honestly, what a wonderful evening at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society Greville Street! The staff there are so friendly and wonderful, my friend and I just had a fabulous time! Ok, so with my honest review, I didn’t like the last whisky and dessert pairing. But that’s ok! I want a food and whisky pairing to challenge my pre-existing notions of what works and what doesn’t work. I want it to expand my palate!

I love how innovative the Scotch Malt Whisky Society is with their food and whisky pairings. Let’s continue to challenge the notion of what can be paired with whisky. Let’s keep innovating and trying out new ideas and foods and whiskies!

A little closing note – as a huge foodie and newbie onto the whisky scene, the tastings and pairings that I did with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society were absolutely incredible. I enjoyed every single one of them! Just because August’s food and whisky pairing month is officially over, doesn’t mean you can’t head over to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for some food and whisky pairings yourself. Staff and ambassadors there alike are always there to give advice on complementary or inverse pairings – whichever you’re in the mood for!

A huge thank you to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for gifting me these food and whisky pairings! Hope you all enjoyed reading about the food and whisky pairing series as much as I did experiencing them!

• If you’re planning to move on from London over to SMWS in Scotland, consider taking the Caledonian Sleeper – an overnight sleeper train to Glasgow, Edinburgh and others!

Until then, everyone stay safe and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Food and whisky pairing month at Scotch Malt Whisky Society continues in a spectacular fashion, with surf and turf and whisky! If you didn’t manage to read the first post in my food and whisky pairing series, I started out in Edinburgh with a tasting menu food pairing – decadent and wonderfully paired.

This time, we go back to Bath Street in Glasgow to see what they’ve been cooking up there, since we last visited. And I’ll tell you – it’s as exciting as ever – Surf and Turf and whisky. Bet you didn’t know that would be an amazing combination, did you?

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society generously gifted me these food and whisky pairings. I am also an affiliate, which means that if you make any purchases or become a member of the SMWS via the links in green or in the yellow boxes, I will earn a small commission from that. Otherwise, my opinions and experience are my own, and I’m happy to be able to taste this amazing food with incredible whisky!

I’ve written before that many people are surprised at the thought of whiskies during dinner, as opposed to a before or after dinner drink. But, everyone’s different. The whiskies here are individually paired with each starter and your main course. So, with 2 starters, 1 main meal, and a wee dessert, that puts the total for the evening up to 4 cask strength whiskies!

Before I begin, a big thank you to Anthony who hosted the tasting at SMWS Bath Street. I’ve known Anthony since the first day I walked into Bath Street a few months ago, and was excited to have my first tasting with him! He was a wonderful host and selected a beautiful selection of whiskies to go with the meals. So, thank you! Looking forward to coming back to Bath Street!

And now, onto the food!

1. Food and whisky pairing: the starters!

The surf and turf theme started out strong, with both, a “surf” starter, and a “turf” starter. With appropriately paired whiskies of course.

The first starter: a whisky cured salmon, with fennel and orange – with the whisky being a blend of Islay and Speyside whiskies. In case you’re looking for it, you’ll find the cask sitting on top of the bar. The salmon and orange was tart, with a creamy sauce, and crunchy toppings. It was a delightful mix of textures and flavors.

The salmon was paired with Cask No. 52.41 “Seahorse Ramen” (fitting for tonight’s theme), which had its flavor profile was “Oily and Coastal.” 52.41 is a 7 year Highland whisky, at 59.6% ABV. After nibbling the salmon, it smoothed out the heaviness of the whisky, but left much of the “sea salt in your face” oceanic tastes.

The second starter: a braised beef croquette, with a creamy mustard mayonnaise sauce inside.

The croquette was paired with Cask 10.199 “Norse & Hawaiian Mythology”, categorized as “Deep, Rich and Dried Fruits.” 10.199 is an Islay whisky, aged 10 years, at 59% ABV. The whisky was peppery and salty, but ironically for Islay, unpeated. Initially it was orangey on the nose, and following a bite of the braised beef croquette, turned fruitier.

This whisky was finished in a Pedro Ximenez sherry cask, which gave it its dark, delightful color. A quick note on the sherry cask finish… Whisky smells and tastes are a personal experience, with everyone experiencing something different and unique. One of the other guests said that sherry finishes “smell of the inside of a Wellington boot.” When he said that, what I wanted to say in return was:

If you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all.

– a woman who loves a sherry cask finish, and does not think that it smells like a smelly boot.

2. Surf and Turf and whisky: the main event!

Here’s what I’ve been waiting for – the main event! A mouthwatering, expertly grilled ribeye steak with king prawns. Served with chips (or for this American, “fries”), roasted tomatoes and marrowbone butter. Boy oh boy, can the Scotch Malt Whisky Society do food!!

The main course was paired with a peated whisky, from Cask no. 137.9, entitled “Massive oak and mighty smoke!” (exclamation point included). This whisky was interested – the peated malt was from either Laphroaig or Port Ellen Maltings (that was a little unclear), but then it was distilled south of the border in Norfolk England. At 65.2% ABV, it was a kicker. This whisky started the first year of its life in a charred new oak barrel, and then was moved for 7 years to an ex-bourbon barrel. Delightfully smoky and a little sweet, an amazing dram!

The ribeye was a nice medium rare to medium – the perfect steak doneness if you ask me. Steak and whisky pairing is something that I had never done before. And the smokiness of the dram added more flavor to the chargrilled steak. Absolutely incredible!

And just another close up of the steak, because why not! It was delicious!!

3. A sweet treat and a dram

We finished off the evening with an “Illegal Gianduja” chocolate coin. Not sure what makes it illegal, but it’s pretty darn delicious! Gianduja is an Italian nougat, made from a mix of hazelnut and chocolate. Paired with cask G1.16, “Chardonnay flavoured white wine gums” – a single grain whisky (not single malt) hailing from the Lowlands. At 26 years, the oldest of our whiskies tonight, with still a heavy and respectable 61.9% ABV.

I’m a newbie to single grain whiskies. For those new to single grain whiskies, they hail from a single distillery (not a blend), and are made with barley and at least one other grain (usually wheat or corn). Because single grain whiskies are not made from malted barley, they’re typically a lighter bodied spirit. Perfect pairing, for say a dessert.

aaaand that’s it for my second food and whiskey pairing at Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

Parting Thoughts

I’m sure you can tell I had another incredible meal at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. The chef is amazing, and the food is phenomenal. I also love the creative thought that goes into the food and whisky pairings! All in all, it was a great tasting hosted by Anthony!

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society member rooms have lunch, dinner, and bar snacks available regulary to pair with your drink of choice. They also regularly host food and whisky pairing events for both members and non-members. If you’re not a member, I’d highly recommend checking out some of their non-member events to test the waters and sample a fabulous meal.

If you enjoyed this post, here are some others you may like to read:

• If you’re looking into Scotch Malt Whisky Society membership, I’ve explained all the fun and exclusive benefits to membership;
• Get a jump on your tickets to The Gatherings at SMWS – a month long celebration of whisky and gatherings!
• If you missed the first in this series and are looking for a drool-worthy meal, try a 6 course tasting menu, with 6 corresponding whiskies;
• Curious about SMWS more experimental whisky casks?
• Looking for inspiration to do your own SMWS virtual tasting in style?
• What about a trip to Islay, Scotland’s whisky island;
• A guide on how to get to Islay from Glasgow.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

If you are pressed for time, flying into the Islay Airport is definitely an option, via regular flights from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair.  However, it can be a little pricey for the cost-conscious, and can cost an average of 150£ for a round trip, per person.

And before you ask, nope! There are no Glasgow to Islay train options!

So, onwards to the public transportation option to Islay!

Please note that some products or referrals in this post are affiliate links (in green) and if you go through them to make a purchase or booking, I will earn a commission. I share these product and booking links because they are related to the post and not because of the commission I receive from your purchases. The decision is yours whether to click through and make a purchase through these links.

1. Cost breakdown on getting to Islay from Glasgow, by bus & ferry

By using only public transport to Islay, it will cost you from 69 GBP round trip (without a car) from Glasgow, with the most expensive part being the bus. 

1. Bus 500 from Glasgow airport to Glasgow central: 9£ – one way (14.80£ discounted return);
2. Bus 926 from Glasgow to Kennacraig: 22.40£ – one way
   • 💡Expert tip: the return ticket is only 1£ more, so buy them both at the same time to save money!
   • You must book the bus in advance;
3. CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Ellen / Port Askaig: 7.10£ per person – one way
   • (or if you are driving from Glasgow to Kennacraig, and taking your car on the ferry: the passenger ticket, plus 35.55£ – one way)

So, for one person, the one way cost from Glasgow airport to Islay is: 38 GBP! Pretty good, right?

While Islay is accessible from other points across Scotland, this post mainly focuses on taking public transport to Islay from Glasgow.  Glasgow is the major hub to us Ileachs (what we call local folks on Islay), and the place where most of us go for our mainland fix.  Don’t get me wrong, island life is an absolute delight, but sometimes you want a little break from village life.  Anyway, I digress.

2. How to get to Islay from Glasgow

Step 1: Glasgow airport to Glasgow City Center

Bus 500 is a regular bus line going from Glasgow airport to a handful of stops to Glasgow city center.  I’ve taken this bus several times, and it’s always a super convenient and easy going journey.  All new buses, with wifi and USB ports at each seat, it’s your luxury liner direct from airport to city center.

When you’re exiting the airport, there should be signs for the bus (turn left) and there it will be – in Stance (or bay) 1.  There aren’t many buses outside so you really can’t miss it.  The bus costs 9£ one way, and can be paid via contactless card on the bus itself.  You can also buy an open-ended return ticket for 14.80£.

These tickets don’t need to be purchased ahead of time, but if you want to save 0.50 – 0.80£ (depending on one-way or return ticket), download the First Bus App and book your tickets there.

Stops in Glasgow central include:

• Bothwell Street
• Bothwell Street at Hope Street (near Central Station)
• George Square at Queen Street Station
• North Hanover Street
• Buchanan Bus Station

For comparison, a one-way taxi between Glasgow airport costs between 20 – 25£, so if you are more than one person, this may be an easier option. 

If you’re going direct from the airport to Glasgow central to start your public transport journey to Islay, then head over to the Buchanan Bus Station.

If you happen to be arriving to Glasgow airport before 14:00 and want to go directly to the bus to Kennacraig, bus 926 swings by the Glasgow airport daily only at 14:20, and you can cut out the first step. When you exit the airport, instead of turning left for Bus 500, turn right and head down to Stance 10 for Bus 926. Remember, only at 14:20 and only once a day. I would suggest you book a ticket in advance on CityLink. Tickets are released 2 months before the travel date.

Hotel options near Glasgow Airport

There are a few hotels within walking distance to Glasgow Airport. I’ve stayed at most of them, so here are the closest recommendations:

– Courtyard Marriott Glasgow Airport – for me, this is the best option – as it is the newest and cleanest. It’s a little farther away, approx 7-8 minutes walking, but it’s worth it, especially if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member like I am.
– Holiday Inn Glasgow Airport – the closest airport hotel. You walk out of the terminal and cross the street, and under 1 minute, you’re there. Down side is that it can be a little dated and musty inside.
– Holiday Inn Express Glasgow Airport – I’ve never stayed here because it’s often sold out, but from the website it looks relatively new. Distance wise, it’s about a 5 minute walk to the terminal.

Step 2: Buchanan Bus Station to Kennacraig

Step 2 on getting to Islay from Glasgow: Take the bus to Kennacraig from Buchanan Bus Station

Ok, your bus tickets from Glasgow to Kennacraig must be booked in advance.  To book, go to the CityLink website.  Bus 926, the Glasgow to Campbeltown bus, takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes to get to Kennacraig, where your public transport journey to Islay continues by boat. 

Check the time boards at Buchanan bus station to know which bus bay (or stance) bus 926 departs from. The few times I took it, it departed from Stance 55.

The buses are luxury coaches, with bigger luggage going underneath. There is a bathroom at the back of the bus, but I never saw anyone use it. Sometimes there’s wifi, although it’s been hit or miss on my trips. Some seats have a USB port to charge your phone, but not all of them do. These are the old USB cables, not the new USB-C.

The three-hour bus ride includes driving alongside Loch Lomond and through the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. During the journey, there is one 10 minute “comfort stop” (about 2 hours in) in Inveraray.  For those of you who want to pronounce this, break it down and say it slowly: IN-VER-RARE-EE. Whew, these Scottish names are tricky!

Inveraray is a touristy former royal burgh famous for a beautiful castle and a historic jail (separate buildings but nonetheless an odd combination of things Inveraray is famous for).  I say it’s a tourist town because, maybe you’ll have to queue for the bathrooms.  There should be time to go use the loo, or get a coffee, but likely not both.

Sometimes the public toilets at Inveraray cost money, and on those days, coins are your friend. But quite possibly, 90% of the time I’ve visited, they are open and free.

One time, the bus started to drive off and a passenger alerted the bus driver to someone who wasn’t back yet.  He doesn’t count passengers before he departs, so stay alert!

If you look on CityLink, some of the bus routes intentionally include a long break in Inveraray for you to go sightseeing. I’m usually trying to catch the ferry to Islay as early as possible, so I’m not really up for a break. But if you are, it is one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland – and the home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll!

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From Inveraray, there’s only one hour before you reach the ferry port at Kennacraig. If you haven’t printed out your tickets, stop in the ticket office to grab your ticket.

The buses will get you to Kennacraig (ferry port) with about 30 minutes to spare before your ferry. 

Step 3: Ferry to Islay

How to get to Islay by Ferry

When choosing which ferry to Islay to book, know that there are two different ports: Port Askaig (pronounced ASK-kee) and Port Ellen.

I once had a friend, who is English, ask me: are you sure it’s not ASK-KEG? (suggesting an Anglicized pronounciation). I am 100% positive. The word “Askaig” has Norse and Scottish Gaelic roots and is pronounced ASK-kee. 🙂

The car ferry to Islay is run by CalMac Ferries, and genuinely, when the ferries run, I’ve always had a good trip. I’d highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, even if you are only a foot passenger. Nowadays, you pretty much should book everything in advance.

Choosing your port entirely depends on where you’re staying and also whether you have a car or not. Islay buses only run from 8 am – 5 pm, Monday to Saturday. So if you’re coming in the early or late ferry, make taxi arrangements in advance!

The official CalMac Ferry Timetables for their 2024 summer sailings have not been released yet, so be patient!

– Port Askaig

From Port Askaig, you would need to time the Islay bus or a taxi to get to where you’re going. Definitely book a taxi in advance, as they’re not waiting at the ferry port for happenstance passengers.

The only hotel near Port Askaig is the Port Askaig Hotel. Besides that, you are near Caol Ila Distillery (reopened in 2022!), Ardnahoe Distillery, and Bunnahabhain Distillery. These three distilleries located are 30 min, 1 hour, and 1.5 hour walking distance (respectively) from the Port Askaig ferry port. FYI, if we’re on that side of the island, my favorite thing to do is the Warehouse 9 Tasting at Bunnahabhain!

If you’re staying in the Rhinns of Islay, near Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich, then Port Askaig is more convenient / closer arrival port for your Islay adventures.

*Note, located in the middle of Islay, Bowmore is equidistant from both Port Askaig and Port Ellen.

– Port Ellen

The other ferry port, Port Ellen, is located on the southern tip of Islay. Of the two, Port Ellen is supposedly the bigger port, but personally, I don’t see it.

If you make Port Ellen your base, it’s easy to get around without a car – you’d be able to walk to the Islay House Hotel (if you’re staying there), and Sea Salt for a lovely meal. The three “Southern peaty” distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) are all within walking distance from Port Ellen, taking 20 minutes, 45 minutes and 1 hour, respectively. But that’s not all in Port Ellen – don’t forget the soon-to-be-reopened Port Ellen Distillery, the new Portintruan Distillery (still under construction), and the new Islay Rum!

3. Parting Thoughts

Now that I’ve walked you through on how to get to Islay from Glasgow using public transport, you are off on your Islay adventures! For a 36£ one way trip and total travel time of 6 hours, getting to Islay from Glasgow it’s not too bad!

• 3 of those hours are on the bus, with a little break in between,
• and 2.5 hours are on the ferry from Kennacraig to Islay.

If you’re concerned about the bus-to-ferry transfer, it is *mostly* linked. I can’t make any guarantees for the winter timetable, but in the summer during tourist season, the bus to ferry transfer is usually seamless!

• That means, when you board the bus and tell the driver you’re going to Kennacraig, the ferry is made aware of how many passengers are arriving by bus.
• But if there are significant delays, since the bus runs on the regular Campbeltown-Glasgow route, it will have to keep going. I’ve never experienced this, but don’t be afraid, you won’t be the only person in need of help. The best advice I can give you is, be friendly and band together!
• Similarly, if you are leaving Islay on the ferry and are catching the bus into Glasgow, the bus (mostly) waits for the ferry! If the ferry is delayed, they will make an announcement to ask for any passengers taking the bus to Glasgow.

There is also no reason to arrive to Kennacraig super early and wait. A ferry transfer is not like a flight! Arrive before the “check in closes” time on your ticket, and you’ll be fine! Kennacraig is not a town, it is a ferry terminal and the only things available there are:

• (1) bathrooms,
• (2) one hot-drinks vending machine, and
• (3) the ticket office, if you haven’t picked up your ticket!

For those who are pressed for time, the quickest way to Islay is to fly. The flight from Glasgow to Islay on Loganair takes about 30 – 40 minutes, and is super convenient. But it drives up the price, and is prone to cancellations due to low visibility. So if you have a bit of time, taking public transport to Islay is well worth it.

Just a friendly reminder that because Islay is an island, sometimes you physically cannot get there any faster due to the ferry or flight timings. So remember, slow down and enjoy the ride – you’re on island time now!

• For help planning your Islay trip and ideas on activities and wonderful places to eat, I’ve detailed all of that in my Ultimate Islay Guide.
• And if you’re looking for a whisky experience in Glasgow before you head off, look no further than the Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s member room on Bath Street in central Glasgow. If you’re not a member, don’t worry – keep your eyes out for non-member whisky tasting events! You won’t regret it!
• If you’d rather not take public transport to Islay, why not visit Islay with a small-group tour, Rabbie’s Islay & the Whisky Isles 4-day Tour comes highly recommended!
  • If you need to negotiate a whisky tour with your better half, consider offering an Outlander tour to help with the bargaining 😉
• Connecting to Glasgow from elsewhere in Scotland? Take ScotRail to Glasgow Queen Street, and you can pick up Bus 500 around the corner at Hanover Street (look for a purple Bus 500 sign near the Costa Coffee).
• If you need to store some luggage before heading to Islay, there are several temporary luggage storage options around Glasgow Central. For only 5 GBP per bag per day,
• Coming to Scotland from London? Why not arrive to Glasgow via an overnight luxury sleeper train on the Caledonian Sleeper from London. Arrive well rested and ready to travel to Islay! If you’re looking for a review on this overnight train for Scotland, look no further! I’ve reviewed it for you HERE.
• Lastly, be sure you’re prepared for the weather. If you love Islay whisky, you’ll have to love Islay rain!
  • The best casual shoes for Scotland weather are AllBirds Rain Repellent series (UK), and honestly, I wear my AllBirds Mizzles everywhere in Scotland.
  • For those AllBirds fans in the US, get a free pair of socks when you use my link – just add the socks to your cart, and it will be subtracted at checkout!
  • The best waterproof wellies (wellington boots) to go pouncing around Islay’s peat bogs is definitely the Hunter Wellies. Made from natural rubber, these wellies are the iconic waterproof boots you didn’t know you needed!
    • Insulated Hunter Wellies for those who need a bit extra warmth!

Now you know that, despite living on a seemingly remote island, getting to Islay from Glasgow is relatively easy and straight forward. Until you grace the shores of my fair isle, I bid you adieu and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

This post will be the first in a series, highlighting the events that I attended with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, during food and whisky pairing month.  There’s still a few events left in August, so hurry and sign up for them!  Most of the food and whisky pairing events are for both members and non-members alike (probably to reel in and delight those non-members!)  For those sad folks that can’t manage, don’t worry – there are delectable food options in the SMWS Member Rooms at all times, and your SMWS Ambassador will help you make a delicious pairing with their current outturn offerings. 

My attendance at these events were graciously gifted to me by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, of which I am an affiliate.  That means, should you choose to sign up for a SMWS membership following this post, I will receive a small commission for that referral.  All opinions and delights in this post are my own and are not influenced by the gifted tastings.  Thank you, SMWS as always!

The first food and whisky pairing event I attended was hosted at SMWS Queen Street in Edinburgh.  Executive Head Chef James Freeman created an exquisite 6 course tasting menu, with each course paired with a SMWS whisky to enhance the whisky experience.  Most people I’ve spoken to consider whisky an after-dinner drink, often considering whisky during dinner to be too heavy.  While I wouldn’t suggest it for every night of the week, on certain special occasions, it can be just the thing.

Your typical food and whiskey pairings are charcuterie platters (meats and cheeses go nicely with heavy, rich whiskies) and chocolates or desserts, where the sweet flavors enhance the soft sweetness in the whiskies. But this? One whisky per meal course? Unheard of, and so decadent!

Before I begin on that evening’s frivolities, allow me to express my great thanks to:

• Logan, our delightful host for the evening,
• Our dinner companions, who added light-hearted laughter and color to the dinner;
• And my friend, Jenny, who joined as my plus one.

Without further ado:

The SMWS Food and Whisky Pairing Tasting Menu

The evening started out with some bread to pad the stomach of the many whiskies to come.  The bread, thematically sitting on barley grains, came with two types of butter – tomato and wild garlic and fennel herb.  When it came out, my friend said “I know which butter you’re going for.”  And it’s true.  Tell me something has garlic in it, and I’m all over it!  If a recipe calls for 1 clove, you gotta put in at least 4.  Anyway, I digress.  Don’t get too excited with the delicious bread and butter, because the first course is coming.

1st course: Torched Mackerel & a Highland

Torched Mackerel with purple potato, apple, compressed cucumber, horseradish buttermilk and dill

Contrapuntal Complementarities – 52.39 (Old Pulteney), a Highland whisky – aged 7 years, at 57.9% ABV

According to Logan, the mackerel had a “bitterness to it”, where the sweet and citrus of the whisky helped to balance out that flavor.

2nd course: Tomato & burrata, with a Speyside

Isle of Wight tomato with basil emulsion, burrata, baby courgettes and wild garlic

A bee swarm on holiday – 36.165 (Benrinnes), a Speyside whisky – aged 12 years, 57.7% ABV

Fruity, vanilla, warm with cloves – a perfect pairing with the light, freshness of a tomato basil salad. The tanginess of the tomato brought out the sweet notes of the whisky.

3rd course: Salmon & a 17 year Speyside

Roast fillet of Loch Duart Salmon, lobster and summer vegetable bisque with a lemon and caper relish

Fruits of the Florist – 7.232 (Longmorn), a Speyside whisky – aged 7 years, 59.1% ABV

By unanimous decision, everyone’s favorite whisky of the evening. A little spice, custard and creme brulee. According to logan, when paired with the salmon and capers, “brings out a weirdness in the whisky.” I dunno about “the weirdness”, but it was definitely everyone’s favorite.

4th course: Quail & a smoky Speyside

Roast quail with bargoule mousse, buckwheat emulsion, crispy potato gratin, chanterelle mushrooms and a redcurrant sauce

Pleasing Sweetness, Playful Heat 64.111 (Mannochmore), a Speyside whisky – aged 8 years, 55.5% ABV

To quote one of the dinner guests, “It doesn’t taste as bad as some of the peaty ones I’ve had!” Now, if that’s not a seal of approval, I don’t know what is.

5th course: Strawberries & autumn in the Highlands

Strawberry meringue with roasted strawberry sorbet, elderflower crème fraiche and strawberry salad

When autumn leaves start to fall – Society Cask (Dalmore), a Highland whisky, aged 13 years, 58% ABV

A second fill sherry cask, and then finished in a first fill bourbon cask for 1 year – what can I say? I love a sherry cask, and its sweetness always goes with a delectable dessert. The strawberry-centric dessert was light and refreshing, perfect for a summer evening!

6th course: Decadent chocolate cheesecake & a Highland whisky

Brillat Savarin & caramel chocolate cheesecake with a dark chocolate glaze, served with vanilla ice-cream.

Raisin cane – 55.4 (Loch Lomond -Inchmurrin), a Highland whisky, aged 19 years, 55.4% ABV

I think I was too many whiskies in to appreciate the last pairing. The whisky had wood characteristics (kind of like furniture polish), with a hint of sweetness and cloves. But that dessert!! I’m a chocolate fan, so everything about this spoke to me!

Parting Thoughts on SMWS Food and Whisky Tasting Menu

Coming into this evening, I wasn’t sure how it would pan out. A six course tasting menu – did that mean there were six whiskies too? (Why yes, it does!!) The Scotch Malt Whisky Society obviously delivers on the whisky front. There’s no question about that. But could it deliver on the food front? 100% YES. The quality of the food was phenomenal and absolutely delicious. The plating was stunning, too. As one of the dinner guests said with confidence, “I’ve never had a bad meal here.”

Now, about having one whisky per course… to be fair, you don’t have to do whisky pairings. One of the ladies in our group was not a whisky fan, so she chose to have wine pairings with it. But beware – if we have six whiskies, that means she had six wines!

What I’ve learned so far about food and whisky tastings. I’m not sure the whisky enhances the food. On the contrary though, the food definitely enhances the whisky. Sometimes on a first sip, the whisky can taste sharp – rough around the edges, if you will. By taking a bite of food in between sips of whisky, the whisky smooths out. Some of the more subtle flavors make an appearance and become bolder.

The cost of the dinner was 89£ per person, which doesn’t come cheap for a dinner. However, that was a 6 course meal with 6 whisky pairings. When you add it up like that, the food and whiskey pairings definitely become worth it! Not every night needs to have a decadent meal. But for that special night out, whisky fans, consider having a food and whisky pairing at Scotch Malt Whisky Society! The food I’ve tasted so far is exquisite, and the whisky – well, that goes without saying – phenomenal!

Jokingly, a dinner guest said, “The world could end tomorrow – this could be your last meal.” And while a little on the grim side, the better way to think of that is, carpe diem! Seize the day! Sometimes you just need to treat yourself to something exquisite, and that’s perfectly ok!

Thank you to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society for gifting me this incredible food and whisky pairing for 2! Remember, there’s at least 2 more events I’m writing about from different Member Room locations around the UK. So stay tuned for the rest of food and whisky pairing month from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society!

To learn more about Scotch Malt Whisky Society, check out my other posts:

• the exclusive benefits of SMWS membership
• a society cask tasting at the Glasgow Member Room
• an outdoor tasting adventure on the Three Distilleries Path.

Travelling from London or England? Come up to Edinburgh or Glasgow on an overnight sleeper train from London Euston. Arrive refreshed in the morning and all and ready for a whisky adventure!

Until then, take care, stay safe, and slainte mhath!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Unveiled recently in spring 2021, the Bruichladdich Foot and Cycle Path runs from the pier in Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. A project of the Islay Community Access Group and the Argyll and Bute Council, in partnership with Bruichladdich Distillery and the Botanist Foundation, the Bruichladdich walking path is a 2.6 km (1.6 mile) one way coastal path. Maybe I walked a little further than the path is supposed to be, because my Apple Watch said it was closer to about 1.9 miles each way. But regardless of its length, it’s a beautifully paved path with a few wooden bridges and coastal views throughout.

Have I got your attention?

1. The start of the Bruichladdich Walking Path

While you can start your walk either in Port Charlotte or in Bruichladdich, I’d recommend starting in Port Charlotte. There’s plenty of street parking in the village of Port Charlotte, and if you’re going to walk there and back, you can stop off at the Port Charlotte Hotel afterwards for a bite to eat or a dram. It’s arguably one of the best places to eat on the island, so a great meal will be something to look forward to! I digress, and of course, am always distracted at the prospect of a great meal.

Port Charlotte (or Port Sgioba in Gaelic) is an idyllic village of beautiful white-washed houses, and the perfect place to start. From the village, walk towards the lighthouse.

2. Sections of Loch Indaal Way

2.1 The Loch Indaal Lighthouse

According to the Northern Lighthouse Board (the General Lighthouse Authority for the waters around Scotland and the Isle of Man), the Loch Indaal Lighthouse was built in 1869 by David and Thomas Stevenson. I never knew that there was an authority governing lighthouses, but it does make sense. The “character” of the lighthouse is described as flashing red and white every 7 seconds, and has a range of 11 nautical miles. The white tower itself is 13 meters high with a balcony and a black lantern. While it serves as a beacon of the Rhinns and the path, there is no public access to the lighthouse.

2.2 Bruichladdich Barley Fields

As you continue walking, besides the gorgeous coastal views, the thing you will see most on the opposite side of the road, is barley. Fields and fields of barley.

Although you may assume it, not all whisky distilleries grow their own barley. And if they do, it’s usually only for certain expressions of whisky, not their full production. The same can be said for Bruichladdich, which grows some of its own barley on Islay – but not all of it. Watching the barley calmly wave in the wind is almost poetic in a way – so soft, so beautiful. Such a wonderful spirit that comes from the barley itself.

2.3 St. Kiaran’s Church

Just past one of the Bruichladdich barley fields, is St. Kiaran’s Church. A Romanesque and Norman-styled church, built in 1897 to accommodate the boom in population the island experienced with the growing number of distilleries. Services are held Sundays at 11:30, and they welcome visitors. By now, you’re about halfway through the Loch Indaal Way.

2.4 War Memorial

Keep going a bit further, and you’ll come across the war memorial monument, commemorating the men of Kilchoman Parish, killed in World War I. From the beautiful stone monument, there are views of Bowmore in the distance, across Loch Indaal.

2.5 The Secret Beach

Ok, it’s probably not so secret. But I love the idea of a “blink and you’ll miss it” beach! Called the Port Ban Beach to those who know, the entrance to the beach is at the war monument. Simply let yourself in behind the gate, but remember to close it back up, in case there are any cows or sheep on that side! From the gate, there’s a paved path and some stairs that go down (and then unpaved as you go about halfway), and you’re nearly there! When you come off the path, first you traverse a bunch of small, smooth rocks, until soft, fine sand reveals itself closer to the water.

The first time I visited, I was alone there with my thoughts and the views. The second time, there was a family playing there in the shallow waters. Locals on Islay are extremely friendly, and after exchanging some delightful pleasantries about the weather and sunshine (always great topics on Islay), I navigated over some rocks and found a little corner of the beach to myself.

I planned ahead on my second trip, and brought with me a little bottle of Bruichladdich’s Classic Laddie. Could I call it one of the great whisky walks on Islay, without some whisky? (I mean, I could…) And of course, I had to choose a spirit from Bruichladdich Distillery, which we will come to when our journey continues.

3. Arrival to Bruichladdich

After a wee dram and some calming waves, I was off again. Not long and I reached Bruichladdich, the halfway point. Bruichladdich (pronounced BROOK-laddie) is a distillery village. As I was researching for this post, I began to wonder what came first – the distillery or the village? Is the distillery named after the village or vice versa?

According to Islay Info (the source of much of my Islay information), the village was built around the distillery in 1881. Unlike other distilleries, Bruichladdich’s Distillery buildings were not converted farmhouses, but built specifically for the distillery. Many of the old Victorian equipment is still in use today!

3.1 Bruichladdich Distillery

Bruichladdich produces three different ranges of whiskies:

• Bruichladdich, which is an unpeated expression – the Classic Laddie, an unaged statement, being one of them (and the one I sampled along the way);
• Port Charlotte, the heavily peated variety (at 40 PPM) – named after our starting point of the Loch Indaal Way!
• and Octomore, the super heavily peated single malt whisky (which ranges from 88 PPM to 167 PPM, depending on the edition) – named after a farm near Port Charlotte.

While I don’t know much about Bruichladdich’s whiskies (being on the other side of the island to me haha), prior to this whisky walk, I had tried Octomore. Rated as the most heavily peated whisky in the world, by a long shot, I just had to know. It wasn’t for me honestly, and that’s ok. Not all whiskies will be your friend. But I’ve only tried it once. I’m open to trying it again.

I did enjoy the Classic Laddie “pairing” with the secret beach. The aroma for me, which arguably was mixed with the salty sea air, was sweet honey. At 50% ABV, it kicked a bit stronger than I would’ve imagined. But it was still a nice addition to my walk!

Bruichladdich Distillery also produces The Botanist Gin, which includes 22 botanicals foraged here on Islay. While gin is not my area of expertise (haha, nor is whisky really), I do enjoy the Botanist. It’s a regular companion when I’m off at my duty station!

While Bruichladdich & The Botanist are currently not offering tours, the Laddie Shop is open for your whisky, gin and souvenirs. Book your slot in advance so you don’t miss out along your walk!

3.2 The Bruichladdich Mini Market

If you’re feeling peckish or need a little coffee pick me up, stop by the Bruichladdich Mini Market for light snacks and refreshments! Sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the views of Loch Indaal. You’ve done 2 miles at this point. Pause and savor the moment before you turn around and head back to Port Charlotte!

4. Back in Port Charlotte

When you arrive back to Port Charlotte, you have a few different options. You can:

• stop by the Islay Natural History Museum and learn about Islay’s geology and wildlife;
• visit the Museum of Islay Life, and learn about Islay’s history through its large collection of artifacts and photos;
• eat a phenomenal meal and rest up at the Port Charlotte Hotel (or have a well deserved dram at its whisky bar!)

I stayed at the Port Charlotte Hotel back in 2020 on my first trip to Islay, and for wonderful hospitality and delicious food, you’re at the right place!

5. Parting Thoughts and Information on the Bruichladdich Walking Path

Filled with stunning views, a secret beach or two, maybe some cows and sheep, what’s not to love about the Loch Indaal Way? I’m absolutely loving Islay’s whisky walks and even more, loving living on this island!

Genuinely, I’m so happy that Islay has a number of walks to go on, that include coastal views coupled with a little whisky to go along with it. This newly opened path is phenomenal! It’s beautifully paved, and an easy walk. Perfect for walking or cycling, and for people of all ages. There’s no shade on the walk, but the sun is rarely blistering on Islay, so you should be ok!

Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich can be reached by car or via the Islay bus system.

I’ve added this map to my trusty AllTrails hiking app, so here it is! For those who don’t have AllTrails, it is an incredible app that has user-verified hiking, walking, and biking routes. I never go hiking without it! Download the free app today 🙂

For your Islay vacation planning needs, check out:

• my Ultimate Guide to Islay;
• the two best places to stay on the island: Glenegedale House and the Port Charlotte Hotel;
• my whisky adventure on the other whisky walk on Islay: The Three Distilleries Path;
• Kilchoman Distillery (read about my Feis Ile tastings) with Islay’s only Farm Distillery;
• beloved bluebells if planning to visit between May and June;
• consider a day trip to nearby Colonsay before moving onward!

If you like themed whisky walks or you’re unable to come to Islay just yet, Nio Cocktails brings the Bruichladdich mood to you with some delicious at-home cocktails! These are perfect for when you want a quick cocktail. (I looove the Progressive Old Fashioned!) Just shake and add ice!

Until next time friends, stay safe! And Slainte!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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