A Michelin Green Star differs from a “normal” Michelin Star, as it awards places that combine their gastronomic creativity with commitment to sustainability practices. You’ll see from the tasting menu that sustainability is more than just a fad – Chef Pam Brunton is fully committed to zero waste and the exciting culinary options that offers. But not only that, Chef Pam fully utilizes the local community in crafting her menu or stocking the bothies with delightful amenities. For the only Michelin Green Star in Scotland, Inver’s commitment to sustainability can be seen everywhere.

1. My second stay at Inver

Experiencing something in the dark and cold winter and then again in spring is such a night-to-day juxtaposition that I wasn’t ready for. Sure, I knew that my stay would be comfortable and cozy, but with sunshine, it was a completely different type of comfy and cozy!

This time, with more daylight hours, the bothy was bright and open with lovely views. I spent lots of time sitting at the window enjoying the slow calm over Loch Fyne, with Nina Simone on the record player.

The bothy is thoughtfully stocked with a homemade beeswax lotion balm and artisan lavender body oil from Ciara Gilmartin, who locally forages the plants for her salves and balms. The body oil is a lush treat after soaking in the bothy’s bathtub. There’s also a little bottle of schnapps, for starting or winding down your evening.

There’s a few hours between check in and dinner, so I grabbed my hiking boots and went for a stroll out to the old castle.

2. Go for a walk around Castle Lachlan

One of the things you’ll notice when you arrive to Inver are the views of old Castle Lachlan. The ruined castle was built in 1314, likely for Clan Maclachlan who ruled the area. The stone exterior is the only substantial remaining part of the castle, but it’s still good for a wander and a poke around.

Especially if the weather is nice, I can highly recommend the Old Castle Lachlan and Chapel Trail on AllTrails+. The trail basically starts at Inver and takes you along the shores of Loch Fyne to the castle and a chapel, with breathtaking views over the loch. The terrain is fine, and is doable with regular shoes, but you never know if there was rain the day or night before making the ground soggy. I’d rather not take the chance, and the quick change into hiking boots is always a smart idea.

Don’t worry – You won’t get lost (you can see Inver almost the whole time). It’s the perfect leg stretch after the drive to Inver, and possibly to work up an appetite for your dinner ahead!

3. Drinks and Amuse Bouche at Inver

Prior to the evening’s meal, you’ll be invited to have cocktails in the extremely cozy lounge. Super cozy in the winter with a roaring fire, and still super cozy on a brisk spring evening.

For the amuse bouche, a tray of 4 items was brought out. Starting from the oyster, and going counter-clockwise,

• Oyster & sea buckthorn oil – what a lush and fatty oyster!
• Squid & pickled spruce – personally wasn’t a huge fan of the texture (squid can be rubbery)
• Crab & barley bannock – a bannock is a Scottish type of flatbread, so this was made with barley, topped with crab. WOW – so savory and umami. Delicious!
• Grey mullet & blood orange – local fish ceviche, held in a citrusy crispy fish skin! Light and crisp and wonderful! Inver’s commitment to zero waste means they’re definitely not tossing the fish skin. Loved that it was fish skin chip used to house the ceviche!

4. Inver Tasting Menu

When I had finished my drinks and interesting amuse bouche, I was invited into the dining room. Not sure why, but I tend to eat earlier than almost everyone else, and therefore had the dining room to myself. Maybe I do that on purpose to have a few more quiet moments, not sure. In March, at least, it was a lovely idea to dine earlier, since I could watch the gorgeous sun set over the loch during the meal. And boy was it a stunning sunset!

I actually popped outside for a moment in between courses to enjoy the views. It is, after all, part of the dining experience.

– Garden plate

To start, don’t let this extremely simple looking plate confuse you, it was packed with flavor and interesting texture! The kale and Jerusalem artichokes come from Kate’s garden down the road.

I love that the waitress referred to her as just “Kate.” Who is Kate? She’s the one who grows these delicious vegetables and lives just down the road. It’s not a nameless random supplier, it’s not a corporation, it’s just Kate.

Think of this as a baby and a mature set of artichokes on the left and kale (and kalette) on the right. This course is meant to be eaten with your hands, dipping the vegetables in the smear up top. The stand outs in this course was the baby artichokes, incredibly light and crispy. The other artichokes, pureed and pressed between two thin pieces of artichoke – with a surprise umami burst of miso mayo!

– Bread & butter broth

No photo of the bread and butter broth, but you’ll forgive me – it makes an appearance in the IG reel at the end of the post.

The bread at Inver is made in-house with Scottish grains, which is milled into flour downstairs. The butter is home-churned butter. Leftover sourdough ends of the bread are soaked into a broth with brown butter and yeast bubbles. And the result is an surprisingly flavorful “bread broth” to cleanse the palette and to open your senses for the courses to come.

I love that the grain is milled downstairs, and that they’re using the bread-ends instead of throwing them away! Love that the zero-waste ethos extends to bread! But not only that, the bread broth was stunningly delicious – savory and umami, you’d never know it was made from leftover bread!

– Scallop & langoustine, broccoli, & blackcurrant leaf

Pickled herring with Loch Fyne scallops and langoustine, with crispy potatoes for texture, and a sea-herb smoked mussel emulsion (with black current leaf oil) poured over.

Loved all the fresh herbs – it was creamy and light and crisp, with the minty parsley reduction. And somewhere inside, some hidden herring roe that I had to ask about. Herring is a sustainable fish, whereas sturgeon* (where caviar comes from) is not sustainable. But you really wouldn’t be able to tell that you’re eating herring roe versus caviar. The burst of flavor from the herring roe was a wonderful surprise!

Note on the sustainability of sturgeon: wild caught sturgeon, ironically, is NOT sustainable, because there are numbers are very low, giving rise to illegal fisheries. Farmed caviar is MUCH better in terms of sustainability. – Marine Conservation Society: Good Fish Guide

– Celeriac, brown crab & apple

Ok, I’m not going to lie – this was my least favorite course. They can’t all be the best, can they? This was a celeriac terrine with brown crab rare bits and white crab, with a white asparagus sauce. There was also apple and pears diced up with the white crab.

Honestly I’m not huge on the taste and flavors of celeriac and white asparagus specifically, so that’s probably it. But everyone’s palette is different, so maybe you’d enjoy it!

– Newmiln Farm pork & celery

The pork main course brought back a little memory from when I was waiting to check in earlier – I saw that pig cheeks were offered on the day’s lunch menu. While I lusted after that with serious FOMO, I remembered about Inver’s “use every part of the animal” ethos, I knew (and seriously hoped) that pork would show up on the evening’s menu, and it did!

The pork was served in 4 different cuts and styles with pickled alexanders and celery. The whole pig came from Newmiln Farms, an organic farm in Perthshire. The exquisite quatro of pork was – the loin, collar (copper), belly, sausage, with a fennel and dill sauce. Absolutely delicious!! My favorite had to be the collar, which was sooooo tender and juicy!

– surprise dessert

First of all, any place that gives you surprise desserts deserves a place in my heart. Let’s be real. I truly loved that there was a surprise dessert and even more so that it was pink! (only my favorite color!)

I remember the surprise dessert was delicious, with interesting textures. Here are the notes I took from that night, which makes little sense to me now, but from what I can surmise, it must have been blood orange flavored 😉

• bee pollen and blood orange,
• candied blood orange peel,
• blood orange sorbet with crunchy bits.
• (a side note that I obviously forgot to ask about) were the crunchy bits the bee pollen?

But unfortunately, I can’t really remember – was it a mousse? Was it a puffy meringue? And really, what were the crunchy bits? Did the bee pollen have a taste or flavor?

Apologies that I can’t recall, so I guess it’ll be a surprise for you as well!

– Pear, walnut & ginger

Poached pears with a walnutty, gingery ice cream to top it off. Normally, ginger wouldn’t be my first dessert palette taste to choose, but take note – it was very gingery! But nice! But more importantly, I loved the walnut flavor, which went so well with the pears and ginger. Walnuts are frequently ignored for cooler nuts and often downgraded as a sprinkling on salads or inside banana breads. But, I’m here to tell you, the walnut flavor is incredible and just the thing you didn’t know you needed!

– Petite Fours

To close out the meal, (sort of) petite fours and a single espresso for yours truly. On the left, a sea lettuce cocoa saba tart and a fluffy delicious madeleine on the right.

For the sea lettuce cocoa saba tart – a few things to note: I’m guessing the tart casing was made from foraged sea lettuce nearby. Saba is a syrupy wine byproduct that tastes of rich raisins and plums. It gave the tart a distinctly tart flavoring, helping to balance the cocoa nibs.

Madeleines are simply one of my favorites things to come out of France. And of course, Inver’s madeleine was a warm and fluffy perfection to end to the distinctly wonderful evening.

5. Picnic Breakfast at Inver Restaurant & Rooms

After a cozy evening in the bothy that included a hot bath with some Nina Simone on the record player, I was excited for the last part of my stay – the Inver picnic breakfast. They provided a breakfast menu in the bothy, and before dinner, I had ticked off all my selections for the morning. And this time, now that it wasn’t winter any longer, I could eat my breakfast with a view, and the sun shining down over the loch.

For you early birds, don’t worry – if you need coffee or tea before breakfast delivery times, there are both (along with a kettle) in the bothy. So, out of everything, what did I end up getting?

• of course, the porridge bread, inver butter & rhubarb jam,
• boiled egg, mayonnaise & herb salt,
• cheese & butter bun (Rainton Tomme – a semi-hard cheese, thyme & sumac) OMG. Buns like this are my weakness. Especially a cheesy and buttery one! Rainton Tomme is a raw milk cheese from the all organic Rainton Farm down in Dumfries & Galloway. Rainton Farm follows an ethical dairy model, and you’ll be pleased to know they focus on “treating the animals, the land, our environment and the people who work here with respect and kindness”. I would expect nothing less from anyone that supplies to Inver honestly!
• Inver potted pork rillettes – not knowing what pork rillettes were, I obviously ordered this. While I would say it’s similar to pate, the texture is chunkier and courser than a smooth pate. Traditionally, pork rillettes are made from either pork belly or pork shoulder. And honestly, I’d be willing to bet that the pork came from the same organic black pig that we were treated to at dinner. The pork rillettes were perfect to spread over the sourdough bread. What a flavor!
• Burnt honey, flax & cardamom granola
• and of course, orange juice and coffee.

The perfect bothy picnic breakfast with a view!

6. Parting Thoughts on Inver Restaurant & Rooms

WOW. Just WOW. What an absolutely stunning of an experience – the meal, the stay, the views – all of it exceeded my wildest expectations! I already had high expectations given my wonderful stay a few months prior. However, finally getting to experience the full Inver tasting menu was beyond anything I could have imagined!

The sustainability ethos can be found almost everywhere on Inver’s menus, and from talking to their wonderful wait staff, you can tell sustainability serves more than just lip service here. They all truly believe in the local community behind the ingredients and the zero waste practices that fuel Inver’s creativity.

Chef Pam and her partner Rob have created an incredible oasis of culinary excitement far from any city or urban area in Scotland.

It’s the perfect getaway that includes a short hike, cocktails, Nina Simone and a bath – and a truly exquisite tasting menu to dazzle your taste buds.

And to me, all that adds up to absolute perfection.

This time, I didn’t get a chance to say hello to Chef Pam and Rob, as they were away for a family gathering. But given that it was a highly anticipated return, I sent them a note about the incredible stay afterwards. I sincerely look forward to the next time I can visit Inver – it is truly wonderful and memorable!

With that, my dear friends and readers, I bid you adieu!

7. Information on booking your stay at Inver

Inver
📍 Cairndow PA27 8BU
Phone: +44 01369 860537
Located: 1h 40min driving from Glasgow, or 2h 45min from Edinburgh
Accessible by public transportation? No.

Dining at Inver is open to non-residents for both lunch and dinner, depending on the day of the week. Monday to Wednesday, Inver exclusively serves dinners to guests staying at Inver. From Thursday to Sunday, Inver opens to both guests and non-residents. Lunches are ala carte, whereas dinner is a 6-course tasting menu.

• Tasting menu: 95 GBP per person
• Drink pairing: + 65 GBP per person
• Luxury shepherd’s hut: 195 GBP
• Luxury bothy: 285 GBP (three have baths)
• Breakfast is included.

A dinner reservation is included in your room booking.  However, do note this disclaimer from their website:

Please note we do not operate rooms on a B&B only basis, which means resident guests are required to eat with us on every evening of their stay. For guests staying with us for more than one night, we can offer an alternative menu on their subsequent evenings.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

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1. Summon the Ulva Ferry to cross

The fun part of your Ulva adventure starts before you even arrive. To get to Ulva, you need to make a very short (and quite delightful) 1 minute ferry crossing from Lagganulva on the Isle of Mull. This isn’t your typical Scottish ferry crossing with cars, timetables, and cafes on board. No no. This is an on-demand ferry run by ferry master, who only comes to pick you up when you flip the board above to red.

Since this is an island of 11 people, I’ll introduce you to the ferry master, Rhuri Munro – who introduced himself to me as Rod. Rhuri is a second generation Munro ferryman and lives on Ulva with his family. That morning, as with many mornings, Rhuri had brought to a special, wee passenger over to Mull to attend school on the other side – a third generation Munro sea dog in training. A short 1 minute (rain soaked) sailing is probably the most unusual way to get to school, especially for those of us who grew up with morning school buses commutes.

After escorting the morning’s special passenger to the doors of the school, Rhuri was back, carrying a giant box with him. “What’s that??” I asked, wide-eyed and super curious. “I guess I’m also the postman. Somebody ordered a bunch of dog food that needed picking up.” That made me laugh in the moment, but thinking about it later on, I realized – like me, everything that comes to Ulva probably got onto the Ulva Ferry with Rhuri.

Instructions to call the ferry are in English and Gaelic, along with the signs on whether the ferry or the Boathouse restaurant are open (both were that day!). When you see the ferry on the way over, flip the board back to white for the next passenger.

• The Ulva ferry only runs from April to October, Monday to Friday – not on Saturdays.
• In June, July, and August, the ferry also runs on Sundays.

Besides the red and white flip board, there is no Isle of Ulva ferry timetable. Take note! Rhuri won’t come pick you up until he sees red on the board!

I was also very surprised that the Ulva Ferry takes contactless payments – having grabbed some cash from my car just in case. The fares have stayed steady for a number of years, despite the pandemic, and is very reasonable for the crossing. You’ll pay when you arrive to the other side.

Cost of the Ulva Ferry

• Return journey – adult – 6 GBP;
• Return journey – child – 3 GBP;
• Bicycle – 1 GBP.

On a nice day, about 80 people will make the journey from Mull to Ulva. On a rainy day like the day I went, Rhuri estimated there would be no more than 30. Truly an off the beaten path day trip!

2. Brief history of Ulva

Ulva has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with artifacts and bone fragments found in Livingstone’s Cave dating back to 5650BC and a few remaining standing stones from 1500BC. It wasn’t until the Viking arrival in 8000 AD can we definitively say that there were settlers on Ulva. And from the Vikings, we get the name Ulfur, meaning “wolf island”. I’m not too sure if that means there used to be wolves on Ulva, but there used to be wild wolves in Scotland until they had been hunted to extinction by 1680.

Toward the Middle Ages, Ulva was originally part of the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata and then later as part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles. Ulva was claimed to be under possession of the Clan MacQuarrie as early as the 9th century. In 1746 at the Battle of Culloden, Clan MacQuarrie joined the Macleans and fought in support of the bonnie Prince Charlie. However, by 1777, the MacQuarrie was forced to sell the island to settle unpaid debts.

Between 1785 – 1835, Ulva was under the ownership of Staffa MacDonald who purchased the island to develop a kelp-burning industry. Seaweed would have been collected, then dried and burned to produce kelp, with the ash in high demand for glassmaking and soap.

The Clearances

What happened next, happened all over Scotland and is not often written about by travel bloggers. After the ownership of Ulva changed again in 1835, the population of Ulva reached a peak of 604 residents. It has never reached that height since then, as The Clearances (or the Highland Clearances) began shortly thereafter.

The Clearances are a euphemism for a massive forced eviction off of Scottish lands between 1750 – 1860 – with landlords evicting their tenants, to clear the land for more profitable livestock. This happened all over the highlands and the islands and the devastating effects of depopulation are still felt throughout the area. From the Ulva brochure,

“This devastating era in Scottish history saw the island’s population decimated as sheep replaced crofters and tenants. Some of those who were evicted were given no warning, and the thatch [roofs] of their homes was set on fire… By 1853, the population was 53.”

Community ownership of Ulva Island

From then until 2018, the ownership of Ulva changed hands while the population continued to decline, at one point reaching an all time low of 6 people. In June 2018, the North West Mull Community Woodland Company purchased the island for 4.65 million GBP. Ulva is now one of the three inhabited Scottish islands under community ownership (the other two being the Isles of Eigg and Gigha).

Nowadays tourism is the main industry on the island, supported by farming and agriculture. These industries have been thoughtfully developed with the longevity and preservation of the community in mind.

3. Getting your bearings on Ulva

Now that you’ve gotten a brief history of Ulva, it’s time to get your bearings straight. The island is about 7.5 miles long (east to west) and 2.5 miles wide. When you arrive to Ulva, you’ll be on the eastern tip of the island and at the main village where the Boathouse is located. The Boathouse is the only restaurant on the island, so make a mental note of it for later.

Once the payment is sorted (all contactless now!), Rhuri gave a brief introduction to the island with a brochure with a map of the walks on the island. I only had a few hours, so Rhuri suggested the farm circuit or the woodland walk. Expert tip – suggestions from a local are always top notch!

And then, I was off!

4. Walks, nature, and serenity

The Isle of Ulva is the perfect place for undisturbed leisurely walks. With several walking paths on the island and lots of birds chirping around you, it’s an incredibly serene and calm experience, even in the rain. Walking, wildlife and peace and quiet, are the main things to do and enjoy on Ulva. So if you’re not seeking a little slice of that, Ulva’s not the place for you!

The walks were well sign-posted and with clear paths, so there’s little chance of getting lost. Sometimes as a solo traveler, I sometimes have a moment of terror thinking I could disappear forever into the quiet vastness of the remote places I visit. But, as long as you stick to the very obvious paths, that shouldn’t happen on Ulva.

There’s only one path leading out from the pier, and one of the first things you’ll come across is Sheila’s Cottage. This reconstructed traditional thatch-roofed croft house normally operates as Ulva’s Heritage Museum and highlights a bit about the island. Unfortunately, when I visited, the cottage had flooded recently and damaged some of the exhibits.

I moved along the farm circuit making my way to the woodland walk. Along the way, I had a short stand off with a black goat who was daring me not to pass. But besides the goat, melodic birdsong kept me company the entire way. At some point early on, there was a small detour to the Ulva House Garden, and what a luscious detour that was. A charming garden with a greenhouse and benches to pause and enjoy the moment.

This contraption on the left is the suggestion and donation box at the Ulva House Garden. The way this works is you turn the wheel at the top, which coils some rope to pull up the lid of the wooden box. Inside the wooden box, there’s a smaller box for donations and suggestions. I absolutely love the quirky charm of this!

After enjoying a moment in the garden, I continued onward. There’s only so little time, and more woodland to be explored!

Despite the fact that I only saw a black goat that was not happy to see me, Ulva’s moorland and woodland landscape gives rise to a variety of wildlife (red deer, mountain hares). Maybe you’ll be more lucky on your Ulva getaway.

5. Isle of Ulva Things to Do and See

Even though I only had a brief time on Ulva, it doesn’t mean that you can’t stay longer and fully experience wolf island. Below is a list of additional sites to explore during your time on Ulva.

1. The Ulva Church – built and designed by Thomas Telford in 1827 from a Parliamentary grant;
2. Basalt Columns – similar to the basalt columns made famous by Giant’s Causeway (in Northern Ireland) and Fingal’s Cave (at the Isle of Staffa, Scotland), the southern side of Ulva also have these impressive, volcanic remnants of the past. Apparently, it’s just as impressive as nearby Staffa. Only takes 45 minutes to reach the basalt columns from the pier.
3. Livingstone’s Cave – grandparents of David Livingstone (Scottish physician and explorer) lived on Ulva, and the story goes that he lived in this cave while building his cottage on Ulva. Excavation work found bone and flint artifacts in the caves dating back to 5650BC. As far as cave adventures go, you all know I love them!
4. Ormaig – previously the principle settlement on Ulva, depopulated from 1850, having been cleared by Francis William Clark. There are a number of ruined buildings, and a standing stone nearby. The hike from the ferry to Ormaig is only 3.5 mile one way and has stunning views of Inch Kenneth, Staffa, Iona, and the Treshnish Isles.
5. Starvation Terrace – if you walk along the north road toward Gometra (neighboring island), you may notice a string of abandoned houses on a terrace. With a name like Starvation Terrace, you know there is a sad story behind it. When I spoke about the Clearances earlier, the massive forced eviction off of the land, many people were unable to leave suddenly due to age or physical condition. With other islanders finding new lives in Canada, Australia and elsewhere in Scotland, the remaining ones who couldn’t leave gathered at Starvation Terrace to eek out a life on their own – foraging on seaweed and winkles from the shores.
6. Visit Gometra – all the way on the very west of Ulva is its neighboring island – Gometra. Accessible via a short bridge in low tide from western Ulva. I can’t say much about Gometra, few people visit and write about it, and even fewer people live there. With a population of 8, if Ulva is off the beaten path, Gometra is more off the beaten path! If you’ve come to Ulva for the purpose of island hopping, you can visit Gometra and you’ll automatically have gotten 3 islands in one trip – Gometra, Ulva and of course, Mull!

6. The Boathouse on Ulva – a must!

An absolute must stop before you grab Rhuri for the one minute trip back to Mull is the Boathouse Restaurant on Ulva. Especially when you’ve been rained on after hiking around the island, popping in for a cuppa and a treat to warm up is absolutely perfect.

Brendan and Mark took over the Boathouse in 2021, and with their move to Isle of Ulva, they exponentially increased the local population! The Boathouse, typically known for their local seafood and home cooking, is literally the place to be on Ulva – it’s the only place to buy food on the island.

My normal readers will know that very few things stop me from having a massive seafood feast by myself, but perhaps it was the fact that it was still technically “morning”. Or perhaps it was the luscious home bakes staring me in the face. And so, in true Lannie style, and following a nudge from Brendan, an absolutely stunningly gorgeous clementine cake was my chosen gâteau du jour, along with a nice and strong coffee courtesy of Argyll Coffee Roasters.

Of course, there was more than just seafood feast or dessert as the options. I was excited to see a lot of Isle of Mull food producers on the menu, spotting Tobermory Fish Co smoked trout, Isle of Mull Seaweed Chutney, and Isle of Mull Cheese. It’s wonderful to see the Boathouse’s commitment to local Isle of Mull food producers – especially when all food to Ulva needs to come over from the Isle of Mull on the local ferry! Well, that is, except for the seafood that comes directly from the sea.

And once you’re satisfied with whatever delicious goods that the Boathouse offers, the ferry hut is just next door. When I appeared in front and saw Rhuri sheltering from the rain inside, he smiled when he saw me and said, “Oh good, I was about to fall asleep!” And with a little giggle, and tons more rain than a few hours ago, we set off on the 1 minute ride back to Mull, and my Ulva adventure came to a close.

7. Parting Thoughts

You all know that I love off-the-beaten path adventures and island communities, so it comes as no surprise to you how much I enjoyed my short day trip to Ulva. Yes, I won’t lie – part of the fun is flipping the sign board and waiting those few minutes for the Ulva Ferry to come get you. But most of the adventure is stepping foot in a place not many people have ever visited and supporting the local community which owns the island!

Also, since I was already on the Isle of Mull, it was an easy and simple day trip while visiting. Because the Ulva ferry is on demand, you don’t need to worry about booking anything – and if you have some time to spare, why not? Be smart and dress for all weather on suspiciously cloudy days. Next time, I’ll try to catch the glorious sunshine to share with you all!

When I have more time, I’ll be staying at the hostel and making good use of the peace and quiet and sauna on Ulva to unwind and relax. And of course, topping it off with a seafood feast at the Boathouse. Until then, I’ll just have to live vicariously through everyone else’s Ulva adventures! I’ve included some resources below to help you plan your trip to Ulva, just in case!

A huge thank you to Rhuri, Brendan and Mark for the smiles (and dessert!!) on an otherwise dreich Scottish day. Your community owned island is wonderful and incredible and full of warmth – I hope to return again and see you all soon!

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Are there places to stay on Ulva?

YES, there are! Don’t worry, if the lure of untouched nature is too great to resist, and you don’t want to do Ulva as only a day trip, there are options to stay on Ulva. Remember, due to the remoteness, most of these locations require a decent hike to get to.

The Isle of Ulva is typically done as a day trip from Mull, but there are also places to stay on the island if you want to extend your off-the-beaten path adventure. Do note that many of the places to stay are very basic and may not have electricity or wifi.

• Cragaig Bothy – located on the south side of the island, about a 2 hour hike from the pier. With views out to Iona, Staffa and Treshnish Isles. The bothy doesn’t have modern electricity or drinking water. It was recently renovated by Isle of Mull designer, Banjo Beale, on his BBC show Designing the Hebrides.
• Bearnus Bothy – is located in the north, on the road to Gometra, about 5 miles from the ferry pier. A simple bothy, with running water from the burn. To stay here, you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag and a camping stove to cook your food. (You’d also need to bring food, as there are no shops on Ulva). Luckily, they do offer to transport your gear via quad bike for a fee.
• The Ulva Hostel – newly renovated, and just opened May 1, 2023, for the summer season! Bunks available in a two single-sex rooms for 20 GBP per night, or enjoy one of three private rooms for 56 GBP per night. The hostel has a fully equipped kitchen, living room and working space, separate shower facilities, and omg – a sauna! Only a 20 minute walk from the pier.
• There are also two Mongolian yurts on a secluded plot near the hostel, with a wood-burning stove and large windows with views out to Mull. Those staying in Puffin Yurt and the Whitetail Yurt use the facilities at the Ulva Hostel, including the kitchen, showers/bathrooms, and sauna. If you accidentally brought too much stuff, the yurts also offer to bring your luggage and supplies over via a quad bike for a fee.

These are all the places available for you to stay on your Ulva trip. I tried to note the different amenities as I found them online to give you an idea. But basically, for the most part, this is off grid living!

Preparing for your trip to the Isle of Ulva

When I visited Ulva in mid-May, summer hadn’t fully reached Scotland yet. Despite a sunny glorious day the day before, the weather had turned that morning. It was dry but suspiciously cloudy when I reached the Ulva ferry. But, as with any Scottish adventure, I was fully prepared with:

• waterproof jacket – Cyclone Rescue Jacket 2.0 from RevolutionRace for heavy rain and high wind;
• waterproof pants (trousers for you British) – RVRC GP Trousers also for heavy rain and wind;
• waterproof hiking boots – Merrell Moab 3 Mid GORE-TEX

None of these are affiliate links, and none of these are required for summers on Ulva, but since I brave Scottish winters, I need all the kit for the rain and wind.

Although I wasn’t wearing my Hunter wellies during this trip, they’re generally considered the best wellington boots for dreich, wet and rainy Scotland. They even have insulated wellies if your feet get cold too!

If you want to be extra prepared for Ulva and elsewhere in Scotland, consider fully waterproofing yourself!

Normally what happens is that you think “it’s only a few hours, it’s not raining now, it’s only cloudy.” Then you get a silly level of confidence where you think you’d be fine even if it does rain. That never happens and you end up getting fully drenched. Since I had my car and all my luggage with me, I sat around in the car park debating whether to change out of my jeans and into my waterproofs. In the end, the rainy memories of Scotland won out, and I did a quick change in my car before heading down to the ferry.

And boy was I glad I did – almost as soon as I set out for the walk, the sky opened up. I was rained on as I trudged along the mushy path, the entire time I was on Ulva! But luckily, I was fully prepared with all my waterproofs, and had a grand ole time on Ulva regardless.

How to reach the Isle of Ulva Scotland

Where is the island of Ulva, you ask? The Isle of Ulva is an offshore island, off the western coast Scotland, west of the Isle of Mull. (An island off of an island? Actually, yes!). That means, in order to get to Ulva, you have to get to the Isle of Mull first.

• Step 1: Arrive to Oban, Scotland
  • Browse ScotRail options to Oban
  • from Glasgow – 2.5 hours drive / 3 hours train;
  • from Edinburgh – 3 hours drive / 4 – 4.5 hours bus/train;
  • from Inverness – 3 hours drive – not recommended by public transportation.
• Step 2: Take the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure (Isle of Mull). 45 minute – 1 hour sailing, multiple ferries per day.
• Step 3: Drive from Craignure to Ulva Ferry – 40 minutes by road;
  • Or, take Bus 95/495 from Craignure to Salen (25 min), and then take the Ulva Ferry Community Bus from Salen to Ulva Ferry (40 min). The Ulva Ferry Community Transport can be taken by visitors and residents alike, and can be booked on the regular scheduled timetable twice a day or any time via private booking. Sorry guys! I tried to get a price for the community bus, but no luck yet!
• Step 4: Arrive to Ulva Ferry Terminal and read the sign to summon the ferry master. Flip the board to red to let Rhuri on the other side know that you need a lift!

Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

Claude Monet was a French painter (1840 – 1926), and considered to be the father of impressionism. He’s one of the world’s most famous painters, so I’m sure you’ve seen some of his works. I’m not really an art history expert, so I’ll leave you to go down a rabbit hole about his life and art at your own leisure.

Back to Giverny (pronounced jee-VER-nee), which is a village commune about 80 km (around 50 miles) west-northwest from Paris. Monet lived here from 1883 (eventually buying the Clos Normand in 1890) until his death in 1926. He is buried in the Giverny church cemetary in the village. Today, the home and gardens are preserved by the Claude Monet Foundation.

Before we get to the illustrious gardens and historical home, let’s talk about how to get to Claude Monet’s Garden in Giverny.

1. How to get to Giverny from Paris

The above painting is downloaded from the internet, as they are part of the public domain in the US, where this website is based.

Giverny is easily accessible from Paris from the Gare Saint-Lazare train station. You’ll buy your ticket for Vernon/Giverny, which is the closest stop. Train tickets can be purchased on site at the station or on the SNCF website. Adult round trip averages 32 EUR, but prices vary depending on the time of train. There are several trains per day, around once an hour.

The trip to Vernon/Giverny takes between 45-50 minutes. Remember: you need to stamp your ticket prior to entering the platform, and definitely before boarding at one of the yellow machines.

From the Vernon train station, it is about 7 km (4.5 miles) to Giverny. There are buses that can take you to Giverny, which are aligned with the Paris train arrival and departures. Adult round trip for the bus is 10 EUR, or 5 EUR one way. But if you want to walk, it’s a nice walk (follow the footprints) and takes about an hour. Here’s a map of the walking route, including shuttle times. There are also taxis outside waiting, just in case.

2. Inside Monet’s Home

While I don’t have any photos inside Monet’s home, I do distinctly remember feeling like I had stepped back in time to a vintage, country kitchen, and artist’s studio space. You’ll be able to see a two sitting rooms, his studio, the pantry, as well as the beautifully blue kitchen on the ground floor in the house.

On the next floor up (second floor for Americans, first floor for Europeans), the bedrooms. Monet’s bedroom, which is bright and sunny, overlooks the garden. (More on the garden in a bit). Monet’s bedroom is filled with famous paintings from his impressionist painter friends, like Cezanne, Renoir, and Manet. Imagine these people being your friends, and casually hanging a Renior up in your bedroom!! Wild times that must have been!

One thing that people always comment about in Monet’s room is how small his bed was. One website reported this was because he wasn’t tall, which I couldn’t really corroborate anywhere. The real reason was because he (and other aristocrats of the time) didn’t share a bed or bedroom with his wife. I’m sure she appreciated not being woken up at dawn when he would get up to paint. But don’t worry, their two bedrooms were connected by a “jack and jill” bathroom.

Lastly, Giverny is also home to Monet’s collection of Japanese prints. Like many artists of his time, Monet collected Japanese prints, which filled him with inspiration to add Japanese flourishes around his home and gardens. Although he never visited Japan, the influence these prints had on his work can be seen all around him!

3. The pièce de résistance – Monet’s Garden

It’s said that the gardens of Giverny were Monet’s greatest inspiration for 40 years. He meticulously designed every aspect of the flower gardens and water gardens, and expanded the property during his time there. Plants from all over France and the rest of the world were brought to Giverny to create his little heaven on earth. Besides importing lilies from around the world, he commissioned the Japanese-inspired arched bridge to be built, and specifically painted green to distinguish itself from traditional red, Japanese bridges. For the Japanese gardens, one of the gardeners he hired had the daily duty of dusting off the lily pads, so that the light could properly bounce off the flowers and leaves!

Monet’s famous water garden served as inspiration for countless paintings, including several series of the lily ponds alone. The most magnificent would be the eight large water lillies murals (entitled Nymphéas), which Monet donated to the Musee de Orangerie in 1922. In fact, Monet helped with the design of the new museum in order to fit the large murals!

4. Visitor Information for Giverny

Tickets cost 11 EUR for adults and seniors, which includes the home and gardens.

Address:
84 rue Claude Monet
27620 Giverny
Tel : +33 (0) 2 32 51 28 21
contact@fondation-monet.com

Open from April to end of October, from 9:30 am to 6:00 pm, last admission 5:30 pm.

Sorry, no pets allowed.

If you’d like to learn more about Impressionism, visit the Giverny Museum of Impressionism in the village. I didn’t visit, but far be it for me to deny another art lover a chance! Unsure about the adult entry cost (as the website has not been updated for the current season), but I imagine it is between 8 – 10 EUR for adults.

5. Parting thoughts on Giverny and Monet’s home

Is Monet’s garden worth visiting? 100% Yes – I absolutely loved this visit, and it made for a fun day trip from Paris.

The gardens are spectacular. Cost wise, you’re looking at 43 to 53 EUR per person to visit Giverny from Paris (RT train, entrance fees, and/or the shuttle). For me, as a Monet fan, it was definitely worth it to walk in the footsteps of an artistic great. Even though my parents are neutral about art and weren’t big Monet fans, they genuinely appreciated the garden, which was everything Monet hoped it would be.

If you can appreciate a gorgeous outdoor space and gardens, then, chances are, you’ll enjoy Giverny. While it was a delightful visit, I read online that picnics are not allowed in Giverny. So although you may like to sit there and enjoy some baguette and cheese, try not to 😉

In conclusion, I think Giverny is well worth a visit as a half day trip from Paris. If you have the time to spare on your Parisian or French vacation, soak up some culture and visit the place that inspired so many great works of art.

For other art themed trips:

• Visit famous Van Gogh sites in France and Netherlands!
• Love art nouveau? Then you’d love Brno, Czech Republic!
• Or visit the National Galleries in Scotland for free!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

1. Intro to the pyramid at Balmoral

This story starts at Balmoral Castle, a private residence of King Charles III. Prior to King Charles’ ascension to the throne, Balmoral was a favorite summer residence for Queen Elizabeth. Queen Elizabeth II passed away while on hoilday in Balmoral on September 8, 2022.

Back to Balmoral – it is a personal and private residence held in the royal family. This differs from Holyrood Palace, which is the British Monarch’s official residence in Scotland. You’ll often find the royal family at Balmoral during smmer holidays.

Back in 1852, Prince Albert (the beloved husband of Queen Victoria) purchased the castle and estate from the Farquharson family. The castle was soon deemed too small, and the current Balmoral Castle as you know it today was commissioned.

Queen Victoria was known for many things, but the things that stand out to me are:

• her longevity – she lived to be 81,
• her large family – by my count, she had 9 children,
• and her love for her husband, the prince consort.

Throughout Queen Victoria’s life, following their purchase of Balmoral, she began to erect stone cairns to commemorate the marriages of her children, and eventually the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert.

2. But is a cairn a Scottish pyramid?

Not necessarily. A cairn (stemming from Scottish Gaelic word, càrn) is a man-made pile, or stack, of stones. Cairns have been around since pre-historic times and are still currently used as landmarks, often as trail markers, for commemorating events or deaths, or for ceremonial purposes.

Currently, there are 11 cairns erected in and around the Balmoral estate. 8 are to commemorate the marriages of most of her children. Why do I only say most? For unknown reasons, the Queen’s son, Prince Alfred is the only one who does not have a cairn dedicated to him. Most of these cairns are your quintessential man-made pile of stones, not quite your Scottish pyramid.

Ok, but why is there a pyramid in scotland? Obviously, the grandest of all the cairns, also known as the Balmoral Pyramid, is the one dedicated to the Queen’s husband, Prince Albert. The Prince Albert Cairn is the Scottish pyramid.

3. How to visit the Prince Albert Cairn?

The Balmoral Castle Estate sits inside Cairngorms National Park in the Eastern part of Scotland. The Scottish pyramid is located on the grounds of Balmoral Castle estate, in Royal Deeside, Aberdeenshire, in the Highlands. If you’re going to explore the area, it’s easiest to do so with a rental car. To visit,

3.1 Car Park for the Prince Albert Cairn

You don’t need to buy a ticket to Balmoral Castle in order to visit the Prince Albert Cairn – or any of the other cairns honestly. The only thing you need to pay for is parking. I can’t remember how much it was – maybe £2 – £4. It helps to have coins for the machine. But if not, easily fixable. You’ll just walk to the Balmoral Castle ticket office there and pay for parking. Be sure to walk back to your car and put the ticket in the window!

3.2 The first section / detour to Balmoral Castle

From the car park, you will cross a bridge over the River Dee. With the ticket office in front of you, (and Balmoral Castle to the right) turn left. This will start your path to the Prince Albert Cairn, also known as, your very first Scottish pyramid experience.

(Or, choose your own adventure! Detour to Balmoral Castle for an interesting audio guide, beautiful castle, and gorgeous gardens! Lots of walking trails on the grounds, as well – it’s worth the visit!)

The cost to visit Balmoral, based on their 2022 prices:

• Adult 16.50 GBP / 20 USD;
• Children 7.50 GBP / 9 USD.

Note: The real Balmoral Castle is not the filming location for Balmoral in Netflix’s The Crown. That was filmed in Ardverikie Estate (about 2 hours away).

4. Hiking the Prince Albert Cairn loop at Balmoral

You’ll notice the title of this section starts with “Hiking”. I mean it’s just that. A hike. This hike is also known as the Balmoral Cairns Walk, but in reality – it’s more than a walk. Prepare for a hike, knowing that Scotland can have all 4 seasons in one day. Bring plenty of water, and maybe a snack. The full loop of this hike is 4.9 miles (less than 8 km). You don’t have to do the full loop – the pièce de résistance (Prince Albert Cairn) is not the last cairn you see on this circular walk. Do whatever you’re comfortable with!

For me, I was determined to do the full loop. But I was particular exhausted on this hike, because I was carrying a lot of camera gear..as always! I would rank it as medium challenging. It was a nice, steady uphill. You’ll see different cairns along the way, and it’s generally really gorgeous.

From the frequent rain, at times the path was really muddy. Good hiking boots will help with the mud. (Mine are Merrell’s Waterproof Boots (UK) / (US), which are great and absolutely essential for the muddy peat bog that is Scotland.)

CLICK HERE to download AllTrails to your phone

After you’ve taken that left from the ticket office, you’ll walk seemingly on a road… (and yes, it is the B976 – don’t worry. traffic is scant… if any at all). The River Dee is on your left side, a field with some hilly coos on your right side.

If you see a bridge in the distance, it should be around the time you see a fork to the right and uphill. Fork! That’s the right direction. You’ll pass by the Royal Lochnagar Distillery, and a few cottages along the way, and away you go!

And our first cairn along the way!

Dedicated to HRH Princess Beatrice,
Married to HRH
Prince Henry Maurice of Battenberg.
23rd July 1885.

After more uphill hiking and some delicious time spent forest bathing, the Scottish Pyramid comes into view.

The Prince Albert Cairn is perched on the top of the hill. The trees fall away, with the pyramid and the Cairngorms coming into view.

The Balmoral Pyramid, built from granite, stands at a height of 35 feet. The square base measures 41 feet x 41 feet.

I spent a lot of time around the pyramid. It’s really peaceful up at the top, and you have stunning views of the valley below. There is an inscription on the pyramid which says:

To the beloved memory of Albert the great and good, Prince Consort. Erected by his broken hearted widow Victoria R. 21st August 1862

I saw one more cairn for Princess Louise after the Scottish pyramid. It brought my total number of cairns on this loop to 3. I thought I would see more than that on this loop, or maybe I did but didn’t notice, being exhausted from carrying my extensive camera gear in tow. But, 3 out of 11 cairns ain’t bad! It was still a great hike and one worth doing!

If you’re looking for all of the cairns on the Balmoral site, you’ll be able to find:

• Diamond jubilee cairn, to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 year reign
• Princess Alice cairn
• Princess Helena cairn
• Prince Leopold cairn
• Prince Arthur cairn
• Purchase cairn, or the Ballochbuie Cairn, marks Queen Victoria’s purchase of the Ballochbuie forest in 1878
• and the Princess Royal cairn.

5. After your Scottish pyramid walk!

Don’t forget to check out Balmoral Castle, if you didn’t before your hike! There’s also a cafe there, in case you’d like a little, well-deserved snack.

Now, if you’re looking for something stronger, don’t forget – you passed the Royal Lochnagar Distillery on the way in. And since this is a loop, you’ll pass it on the way out!

5.1 The Royal Lochnagar Distillery

The Royal Lochnagar Distillery is based at the Abergeldie Estate in Royal Deeside. It was awarded its Royal Warrant, following a visit by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and three of their children in 1848.

The Royal Lochnagar is a Highland whisky, which produces mostly for Johnnie Walker’s Black and Blue labels. It also produces single malt whiskies, as well. You can tour their distillery and enjoy their 12 year old, Distillery Exclusive Bottling and Selected Reserve, for 12£.

Learn more about scotch whisky in my introductory post on Islay, Scotland’s whisky island!

5.2 Highlanders Bakehouse

In need of carbs after that hike? Stop by the Highlanders Bakehouse to refuel and grab some baked goods for later. You won’t regret it!

From the Balmoral Car Park, Highlanders Bakehouse is across the street on A93, just 500 meters / 0.3 miles to the East.

6. Parting thoughts on my hike to the Scottish Pyramid

This was a really fun hike to do. I love that there are additional things to do along the Balmoral Estate, given that you’d already paid for parking anyway. For me, I visited Balmoral Castle in 2019, and really enjoyed the audio tour. The grounds are gorgeous and a delight. I absolutely loved the gardens!

For more hikes wherever you are, download AllTrails app!

I didn’t get a chance to visit the Royal Lochnagar Distillery. I think I’ll save that for next time! I’ve been in and around the Royal Deeside area a few times, and I seem to keep coming back! Every time I’m here, I stay at the Hilton Grand Vacations Hotel & Spa at Craigendarroch in nearby Ballater. With a pool and sauna, and within walking distance to the village, it’s my go-to place to stay!

Sure, most of the time I visit, I just go to the Prince Albert Cairn because it’s so wonderful. But there’s different hikes looking for different cairns! There’s plenty of things to explore at Balmoral – something for everyone!

For those foodies, when in Ballater:

• be sure to visit the Phoenix Chip Shop. During Queen Elizabeth’s reign, the footman from Balmoral would visit this local chippy for the Queen’s fish and chips. I’ve been a few times – it’s a great chippy!
• have a romantically delicious meal at The Rothesay Rooms inside the Old Royal (railway) Station. Under Head Chef Ross Cochrane, The Rothesay Rooms is included in the Michelin Guide and showcases fresh local produce with seasonal menus. Originally established by King Charles III (when he was Prince of Wales) to support the community after flood and fire tore through Ballater in 2015.
• for brunch, the Bridge House Cafe is my personal fave!

If you’re looking to travel to Balmoral / Aberdeenshire in style via a luxury, overnight train, the Caledonian Sleeper offers the only overnight route between Scotland and London. Save time and arrive fully refreshed for your onward travel!

• Be sure to check out my review for the Caledonian Sleeper! You’ll take the train from London Euston to Aberdeen.
• Or connect to Aberdeen via ScotRail in 2-3 hours from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness!
• From Aberdeen, you’ll take Stagecoach Bluebird Bus 201 from Aberdeen Union Square bus station to Crathie (Balmoral), which takes about 2 hours.

For other ideas for travel in the Highlands:

• Visit the site of the historic Battle of Culloden;
• Enjoy a chocolate tasting at an award winning highland chocolatier;
• Take a road trip on the North Coast 500, where you can visit the Castle of Mey – the Scottish castle purchased by the Queen Mother (as shown in Netflix’s The Crown);
• Eat at an award winning restaurant, Monachyle Mhor;
• Take a Day Trip to Orkney Islands!

OR if royalty is your thing, be sure to visit Holyrood Palace (located in Edinburgh), which is the King’s official residence in Scotland!

Planning to hike up to the Scottish pyramid?
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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

Click on the blue icons below to follow her on social media!

lanniesfoodandtravel.com/index.php/about-me/

In June 2019, I returned to Scotland after a year and a half away. Previously, the Beast from the East greeted me with a fever and frigidly cold weather. This return to Scotland was much better, but filled with rain. I mean, well, Scotland. To be expected, I suppose. While the purpose of my trip wasn’t to go up to the North, I had a few extra days after my friend left, and I do enjoy random, remote destinations, so the North it was!

1. Road trip along North Coast 500 (NC500)

It was a spur of the moment decision, and I didn’t do much research before hand. I had never heard of the North Coast 500 (or NC500, for short) until I arrived. For those who don’t know, the North Coast 500 is a 516 mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland. The Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative launched NC500 in 2015. Parts of the route go alongside the North Highland Way (a 150 mile hiking trail).

Your NC500 road trip begins and ends in Inverness (near the bottom, around the number 69 above), which divides into six regions: Black Isle, Caithness, Easter Ross, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, and Wester Ross. This trip, I spent most of my time in the Caithness region (up north, at number 24 above). But I did drive that full length of the right side from Inverness and back, and it’s a beautiful drive. Of course, you can do your own North Coast itinerary – but we all have to start somewhere. And Caithness was the section for me!

Also, I wish I had discovered the North Coast 500 website prior to going, but alas. There seems to be a lot of information on the area, with nice recommendations. But, no one ever said I was that smart. 🙂

2. How to start your North Coast 500 Itinerary

I rented a car, which is advisable for Scotland. Especially if you want to go anywhere outside the city. And also considering how remote it is outside the cities, it really is a must. Also, the NC500 is a road trip, so perhaps you want a car for that. 🙂

Wick, one of the bigger villages up in the North, is about a 5-7 hour drive from Edinburgh, depending on roadwork, lunch stops, and general driving breaks. It’s a beautiful drive though, mostly traversing wide open Scottish Highlands. But beware – there are lots of windy, one lane roads. You’ll have to be comfortable being behind large lorries until you have time to pass, and passing is always a scary venture.

From Inverness, Wick is about a 2-3 hour drive.

3. My North Coast 500 Itinerary: Where I stayed

By the time I decided to head to the North, I pretty much had a mad dash to book a place to stay. Many places I contacted via email were unavailable. It was last minute and summer season.

I ended up at “The Naze”, which I found on Airbnb. It is a delightful bed and breakfast about 10 minutes drive from John o’Groats and 20 minutes drive from Wick. The Naze offers comfortable rooms and incredible hospitality!

Pasty and her husband, Tony, were the most wonderful hosts. They are a retired couple from the area, who rent out rooms in their house. They enjoy a bit of company and variety in their day. Given how remote this area is, it is really nice to have a chat and a cup of tea at the end of the day.

Let me just say that besides the immense hospitality, the breakfasts at the Naze were just UNREAL. Not shown in the below picture, is coffee, toast, and a croissant. The plate of charcuterie, with salamis and cheeses, was also really delicious.

4. Places and Things along your North Coast 500 Itinerary

The NC500 has gorgeous scenery everywhere you go. It’s picturesque, vast landscapes aren’t the only great things about the North Highlands. There are in fact many things to do and see along the NC500. The below is a list of the places I visited and the things I did.

4.1 John O’Groats

The village of John o’Groats is the most northerly village in Great Britain and the gateway to the Orkney Islands. There was a time between 2005 and 2012 where it was called a “seedy tourist trap” by Lonely Planet and “Scotland’s most dismal town” by Urban Realm. Since then, they village has undergone a transformation. Although it’s not bustling, I wouldn’t be so harsh on it as to call it seedy or dismal. It has its challenges, which I’ll note below. But this is probably the biggest village in the area. Wick (a bigger town) is about 20-30 minutes away.

First thing’s first. John O’Groats does not have a grocery store, but does have a post office (priorities, I guess?). The one day I tried to go to the post office, it was only operating for half a day that day. Low and behold, it was closed. Additionally, while there are places to eat, the only option after 5 pm is the Seaview Hotel.

I cannot emphasize this enough. Either you have food (that you brought with you) or you eat your evening meals at the Seaview Hotel. I went there once during my stay in the North, and while it was definitely hoppin and the place to be, I didn’t find the food too spectacular. But when you’re pressed for options, it’s a decent meal.

I ordered a salmon, as one does in Scotland. I wished the skin would be deliciously and delightfully crunchy, but … it wasn’t.

Besides the Seaview Hotel, a nice cafe is Stacks, which is located near the harbor. Every time I wanted to go, was past 5 pm, and they were already closed. I did manage to go the morning before I left the North. Their cheese scone and chocolate rice krispy treat were AMAZING road trip snacks!!

I didn’t take a photo of the inside of the Stacks itself, but when I went to the restroom, I found this inside, which I GREATLY appreciated. It was taped to the paper towel dispenser. Because let’s get totally real… #MeToo.

Besides the two places I managed to eat, John o’Groats also has a really nice harbor area for a stroll and some fresh air. The ferry to the Orkney Islands departs from the harbor. The above colorful buildings, aka the Inn at John O’groats, is located right at the harbor.

4.2 Duncansby Head

Just outside of John o’Groats, is Duncansby Head. Located at the most northeasterly point of the British mainland, there is a lighthouse and the Stacks. There is a place for you to park your car near the lighthouse, and then you just walk into an open field towards the Stacks. A word to the wise, it is wildly windy and brisk up there, so dress appropriately! Tie your hair up and grab a beanie.

There is a cliffside ravine on the way, where puffins normally are. If you are lucky enough to be there the same day they are! I had no such luck, but I did get to see a variety of other sea birds nesting there.

Finally, the Stacks come into view. It makes the cold, blustery day all worth it.

So, even though the Stacks are obviously rock protruding out from the sea, I’ve never come across sea stacks before. Sea stacks, vertical columns of rock found near the coast, are formed by wind and wave erosion. I thought that little nugget of information was pretty cool!

4.3 Castle of Mey

Further up the coast, you’ll come across the village of Mey, which is home to the Castle of Mey. The castle, which I only know of from Netflix’s The Crown, was purchased in 1952 by Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, after the death of King George VI. When the Queen Mother purchased the castle, it was derelict and falling apart. She spent 3 years renovating it before she moved in, and would stay there every year until her death in 2002.

Nowadays, the Castle of Mey is open to the public from May 1 to September 30. In July and August, King Charles III and Camilla, the Queen Consort, visit the North Highlands and stay at the Castle of Mey for up to 2 weeks. During that time, the castle is closed to visitors as they take up private residence there.

The King and Queen Consort have also opened up Granary Lodge, a luxury B&B, on the premises of the castle. My Airbnb host heard a rumor that when the King was remodeling the B&B, he spent about 2,000 GBP on a single bathtub. So if you’re looking for a bit of luxury in the north, there you go! Fit for a King!

A 11.95 GBP adult admission ticket will grant you access to the castle, grounds, and garden, with a tour of the castle included. (You also have the option of just visiting the grounds and garden for 6.50 GBP). There are no photos allowed inside, but it was a really great tour. The guide told us wonderful stories of the Queen Mother. She seemed to have a great sense of humor and truly loved living and staying at Mey.

Also, a helpful tip. Since I am always concerned about food, I had originally wanted to eat lunch somewhere before I arrived at the castle. I googled and settled on the Castle Arms Hotel in Mey. Ya, they’re not open until dinner time. The Castle of Mey does in fact have a nice visitor center with cafe, and I ended up eating this delicious cheese scone along with a coffee. So, either plan to eat there, or don’t visit on an empty stomach. You probably shouldn’t expect to find food in Mey afterwards, either. Are you beginning to get a sense of the remoteness of the North Highlands?

4.4 Dunnet Head

Keep heading north, and you’ll arrive at Dunnet Head, another landmark point. Dunnet Head is the most northern point in mainland Scotland and the island of Great Britain. Not to be confused with Duncansby Head, which is the most northeasterly point.

Similar to Duncansby Head, many people frequent Dunnet Head for a glimpse of puffins and other sea birds. I’m sure you can guess that luck was not on my side that day, and although I did see lots of birds along the below cliff, none of them were the adorable puffins I was after.

Want to read about when I finally did manage to see puffins? Check out my post, here!

There were some trails leading away from the lighthouse that I wandered onto, which brought me view of Long Loch and the Loch of Easter Head.

When I left Dunnet Bay, along the B855, I suddenly saw two stacks protruding from the water, and a trail that appeared to go down to them. See them down on the map below? Obviously, I had to stop an inspect.

Part of the reasons I love casual road trips is the ability to stop and explore when the mood strikes. I’m really happy I did. Besides the rain, one of the things I remember most vividly about this day, was the gorgeous light green moss that covered the pier.

4.5 Wick

The town of Wick is further south than all of the above locations. And it is probably the biggest town you will encounter in the remoteness of the North Highlands. On the Google Maps below, I pinned two things in Wick – the Lidl supermarket and Harrold Bros Butcher Shop.

I have to be completely honest – I did not do anything else besides drive through Wick. I’m sure there are things to do there, but I just didn’t have time. But Wick is the place to buy groceries and things. I can’t emphasize this enough – you need to stock up on supplies when you take a trip to the North Highlands. The Lidl has most everything you could need. And I mention the butcher shop because, local butcher shops are an institution in Scotland. I discovered the greatness of the local butcher on this trip to Scotland. When in Scotland, I will probably never buy meats at a grocery store again.

As you may know, for now, I am mostly on mission in Afghanistan. Some things, like great meats, can be challenging to get. I stopped by Harrold Bros before I left and bought a variety of sausages, steaks, burgers and bacon to bring back with me. The butcher kindly vacuum sealed everything with frozen packs, and I popped it into my insulated back from Lidl. I was able to come back to Kabul and mildly recreate a Scottish breakfast with my housemates.

5. Other places to see along this NC500 Itinerary

The below are a few places that I did not manage to go to, but could be of interest to you on your North Coast 500 road trip!

• Dunrobin Castle – you’ll pass by on your way to Wick, from Inverness – arguably one of the most gorgeous castles in Scotland!
• Castle Sinclair Girnigoe – if castles are your thing, the be sure to visit (the ruins) Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, the earliest seat of Clan Sinclaire.
• Old Pulteney Distillery – got a hankering for some whisky tastings? Stop by the Old Pulteney Distillery in Wick.

If you’re looking for camping or even wild camping spots, feel free to refer to this NC500 Camping Guide, from my friend and fellow writer, An Orcadian Abroad.

6. Parting Thoughts on my North Coast 500 Itinerary

Now you have a brief introduction to the North Coast 500, which is arguably one of the best Scottish road trips. In my next post, read about my day trip out to the Orkney Islands, from John o’Groats. The NC500 has different sections, and mine mostly covers Caithness. Whatever NC500 route you choose, a few things to remember:

1. Most sections of the NC500 is in fact quite remote, so in addition to large open landscapes and sheep, the next thing you’ll see in abundance are the same tourists everywhere.
2. Food may be hard to find. Some places close before 5 pm, other don’t open until 5 pm. It’d be best if you went grocery and snack shopping in Wick on your way into the north.
3. Remember that chances are, it’s cold and windy, so bundle up. Warmth is more critical than fashion.
4. Some areas do not have great cell / mobile signal, so consider preparing for your NC500 road trip with a physical Ordnance Survey map of Northern Scotland (includes Orkney and Shetland!).

And last but not least, I’ll leave you with the motto of the Order of the Thistle, which is Scotland’s highest chivalric order:

Wha daur meddle wi’ me.

No one provokes me with impunity. (or) No one can harm me unpunished.

This post nor blogger promotes violence, just merely sharing the national motto of Scotland.

Pin it for later

Starting in Inverness? How about a day trip or two before you head out.

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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