Autumn, art nouveau and beautiful Brno

The great thing about going to school in Vienna is the day trip options away from the city.  Don’t get me wrong, there are amazing things in Vienna to see and do, but when it’s my 7th trip here, you look elsewhere for weekend entertainment.  After researching available options, I came across Brno and this exhibition that they’re currently having: Alfons Mucha: Two Worlds.  Being a huge art nouveau fan, I immediately decided on a day trip to Brno.  The exhibition officially ended on December 31, 2018. 

Brno is about a 2 hour bus ride from Vienna.  There were options via FlixBus or RegioJet.  Before I tell you about my transportation options, let’s just say that recently, I have been getting into golden hour, sunrise photography.  I decided that wherever I went this weekend, I was going to go really early for that gorgeous golden hour light.  The 3:20 am FlixBus from Vienna International Bus Center arrives in Brno after 5 am. Please note, this day trip CAN BE DONE during normal hours.  I just choose to be insane, that’s all.

1. Arrival to Brno

When I arrived in Brno, it was dark at 5 am and obviously nothing was open.  McDonald’s opened at 6 am. The immediate goals: stay alive and warm for one hour.  So I wandered around the old town, trying to get my bearings straight.  Many drunken clubgoers were fumbling around the streets.  But for the most part, the streets were empty.

2. Sunrise Golden Hour

Fast forward a few hours, I decided never travel for a day trip to catch the sunrise.  In hindsight, it makes no sense.  So remember that for the future.

After taking some shots, I wandered back to the Produce Market where it was bustling and in full swing.  This is definitely something you have to check out on a Saturday morning there!

Now that it was nearing 8 am, it was breakfast time.  I settled on Cafe Placzek and ordered the hearty, winter breakfast.

3. The Mucha Exhibition

From there, it was a little over a mile from the old town area. It gave me a beautiful glimpse into regular Brno life.  With the leaves changing colors and the painted facades of buildings, it was a charming walk.  (You can also take Tram #1 from old town to the Brno Exhibition Center for 20 CZK).

When you arrive at the Brno Exhibition Center, it is a massive open space.  But relatively empty.  The Mucha Exhibition is in a large pavilion towards the back of the exhibition complex.  Just follow the beautiful signs and you’ll get there eventually.

The exhibit comprises of 2 themes – the Slav Epic and the Mucha Posters.  Alfons Mucha, the father of Art Nouveau, earned his fame by designing a series of Sarah Bernhardt posters for her shows. From there, he gained considerable fame both in Europe and the US, mostly with poster work.  It’s amazing that this massive collection of art nouveau posters would be on display in Brno. I’m so grateful to see it, because I absolutely love art nouveau!

Czech tennis player, Ivan Lendl, owns the most complete collection of Mucha posters.  Lendl has been an avid collector for the last few decades and loans his personal collection for the basis of this exhibit.  Prior to the exhibition, Lendl proudly displayed the posters in his Connecticut home. He custom built his home around the sizes of these massive posters.  The posters are absolutely spectacular and vibrant, with some measuring over 10 feet tall!

A US financier supported Mucha’s Slav Epic project.  The project was a series of large panels that he envisioned as promoting a national Slavic identity and national awareness.  The Slav Epic panels are very moving and show this surreal Slavic awakening, with the aide of supernatural, mythical elements.

There were no photographs allowed inside. Therefore, I purchased the exhibit catalog.  The art is absolutely stunning and a MUST for those who love his work.

3.1 The kindness of strangers

After the exhibit, I tried to get my bearings straight before setting off.  I realized that I needed to take a tram to my next destination. But I didn’t have any koruna in change for the tram!  I went back to the exhibit to ask some questions about the tram. 

• Could I buy a ticket on the train?
• Would they accept euros instead of koruna?

The woman recognized me from earlier and told me that I could buy a tram ticket at a yellow box near the tracks.  The ticket cost only 20 koruna, but they didn’t accept euros.  She asked if I needed one or two trips, and I replied two. 

And then she gave me 50 koruna in change! 

Ok, that’s the equivalent of about 2 euros.  But it was so thoughtful! I tried giving her euros, but she wouldn’t accept it. She said it was fine, as she had change to spare. 

HOW KIND!!!!  and unexpected!!  SO THANK YOU, BARBARA FROM THE BRNO EXHIBITION CENTER!!

3.2 Side note about money and day trips

By the way, sometimes with day trips it’s tough.  The ATMs only let me take money out 1000 koruna at a time, which is about $40 USD.  If a tram costs 20 koruna, do I really need 1000?  No.  Which is why I didn’t get money at the ATM.  But also, it’s kind of inconvenient so I feel really bad about taking money from a kind stranger.

4. Jurkovič House, an Art Nouveau House in Brno

Now, having both money and a plan, I headed toward Tram 1, going away from the old town.  Trams operate on the right side, so for my purposes, I crossed the tracks to the other side.  From there, I exited the tram at Brafova, walked through a grassy path, skirted along a forest park, to the Jurkovič House. 

Designed using all art nouveau elements, Jurkovič House is home of Slovak architect, artist, and designer of several World War I cemeteries – Dušan Jurkovič.  From the beautiful peacock entrance, to the wooden accents upstairs, this home is an art nouveau gem.

The Jurkovich House also hosts the Moravian Gallery, an art gallery showcasing local artists’ connection to the house.

5. Stunning autumn

Afterwards, I took an extended stroll through the autumn yumminess that is Brno.

Parting Thoughts

In the end, that was all I really had time for.  But then again, that’s all I really wanted from the day.  I hopped back on the bus at 2:45 PM and arrived in Vienna in time for dinner.

All in all, I’m glad I went.  It was definitely exhausting, but I learned that it’s only practical to take sunrise photos when you’re staying in a place.  Traveling to a place to photograph in the golden hour is silly.

Maybe in the future I won’t come for the sunrise, but art and architechture are definitely something I would return to Brno for! If you also enjoy traveling for art and architecture, consider these trips for your future travel plans!

• a visit to Monet’s iconic house and gardens, Giverny;
• all the best Van Gogh locations in France and the Netherlands;
• or, for the adventurous art fan, head over to the West Bank and visit Banksy’s Hotel – the Walled Off Hotel.

*For fans of Mies van der Rohe

On a side note, for those who have time and are architecture fans – in Brno, there is also the Villa Tugendhat.  It is a Mies van der Rohe icon of modernism, made between 1928 and 1930 for Fritz Tugendhat and his wife.  There are many Mies van der Rohe buildings in Chicago, where I lived for many years.  If I had the time, and maybe if I liked modernism architecture, I would stop by.  Some people agree with Mies van der Rohe’s motto “less is more.”  Those people have obviously never fallen in love with the frills and colors of an Anthropologie catalog.  And with that quip, I’m off.  Enjoy your fall, y’all!

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Lannie

Lannie is a perpetual wanderer and loves to share her travel adventures and the food she eats along the way with everyone.  She works during the day while bouncing around the world and dreams about new places and faces at night!  She has a home on the magical Isle of Islay in Scotland, where the whisky flows freely and happily.

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